Flight Schedule ............................... 2 Barbados ........................................ 4 Limegrove Lifestyle Centre ............ 5 St. Vincent ..................................... 7 Jazz on the Green ........................... 9 Bequia .......................................... 12 A Weekend in Paradise ................ 13 Celebrating New Years Eve Bequia Style ................................. 17 Mustique ..................................... 22 Colin Tenant – A Reflection ........ 24 The Southern Grenadines ............ 27 Lion Fish ...................................... 28 Canouan ........................................ 30 Culinary Adventures in the Caribbean .......................... 32 Mayreau ....................................... 34 Palm Island .................................. 36
All rights reserved © 2013. Reproduction in whole or part of this publication without written permission is strictly prohibited. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure correct information, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors, omissions or changes. The advertising content is the sole responsibility of the advertiser and the publishers accept no responsibility for any statements or claims made therein. The Grenadine Air Alliance Magazine 2013/14 is published on behalf of Trans Island Air, SVG Air and Mustique Airways by: West Indies Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box W883, St. John’s, Antigua, Tel: (268) 461 0565 Email: wip@candw.ag
Union Island ................................ 38 Petit St. Vincent ........................... 40 Cover Photo of Bequia Beach Hotel by Wilfred Dederer 1
SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES & BARBADOS EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 3RD, 2013 TO MARCH 8TH, 2014. FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15 Daily Flt. #605 at 10:15
FROM: BARBADOS TO ST. VINCENT Daily Flt. #614 at 16:30 Daily Flt. #616 at 16:30
FROM: BEQUIA TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #603 at 10:30 Daily Flt. #607 at 14:00
FROM: BARBADOS TO BEQUIA Daily Flt. #606 at 13:00 Daily Flt. #614 at 16:30
FROM: MUSTIQUE TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #803 at 11:00 Daily Flt. #807 at 14:20
FROM: BARBADOS TO MUSTIQUE Daily Flt. #806 at 13:15 Daily Flt. #814 at 16:30
FROM: CANOUAN TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #605 at 10:45 Daily Flt. #609 at 14:00
FROM BARBADOS TO CANOUAN Daily Flt. #606 at 13:00 Daily Flt. #614 at 16:30
FROM : UNION ISLAND TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #605 at 11:00 Daily Flt. #609 at 14:00
FROM: BARBADOS TO UNION ISLAND Daily Flt. #608 at 13:00 Daily Flt. #616 at 16:30
SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES & BARBADOS EFFECTIVE MARCH 9TH, 2014 TO NOVEMBER 1ST, 2014
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FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #603 at 10:00 Daily Flt. #605 at 10:00
FROM: BARBADOS TO ST. VINCENT Daily Flt. #614 at 16:00 Daily Flt. #616 at 16:00
FROM: BEQUIA TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15 Daily Flt. #607 at 13:35*
FROM: BARBADOS TO BEQUIA Daily Flt. #606 at 12:30* Daily Flt. #614 at 16:00
FROM: MUSTIQUE TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #803 at 11:00 Daily Flt. #807 at 14:20*
FROM: BARBADOS TO MUSTIQUE Daily Flt. #806 at 13:15* Daily Flt. #814 at 16:30
FROM: CANOUAN TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #605 at 10:30 Daily Flt. #609 at 13:35
FROM: BARBADOS TO CANOUAN Daily Flt. #606 at 12:30* Daily Flt. #614 at 16:00
FROM: UNION ISLAND TO BARBADOS Daily Flt. #605 at 10:45 Daily Flt. #609 at 13:35*
FROM: BARBADOS TO UNION ISLAND Daily Flt. #608 at 12:30* Daily Flt. #616 at 16:00
*Please note: These flights will NOT operate from September 1st, 2014 to November 1st, 2014.
SHARED CHARTER DEPARTURES BETWEEN MUSTIQUE AND HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA EFFECTIVE NOVEMBER 29TH, 2013 TO APRIL 27TH, 2014 MUSTIQUE TO HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #905 at 13:30** Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #907 at 17:30
HEWANORRA, ST.LUCIA TO MUSTIQUE Fri., Sat. & Sun. Flt. #906 at 16:00
**Please note that due to daylight savings time in North America, Flight #905 departs one hour earlier effective March 9th, 2014.
Flights subject to change.
DEPARTURES BETWEEN ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINE ISLANDS 2013 FROM: ST. VINCENT TO BEQUIA Daily Flt. #603 at 10:15 ***
FROM : BEQUIA TO ST. VINCENT Daily Flt: #614 at 17:30****
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO MUSTIQUE Mon–Sat (except Public Holidays) Flt. #131 at 07:30 Flt. #135 at 16:50
FROM: MUSTIQUE TO ST. VINCENT Mon–Sat (except public holidays) Flt. #311 Depart Mustique at 07:50 Flt #315 Depart Mustique at 16:30
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO CANOUAN Mon.–Fri. Flt. #141 at 08:15 Daily Flt. #605 at 10:15***
FROM: CANOUAN TO ST. VINCENT Mon.–Fri. Flt. #411 at 09:00 Daily Flt. #419 at 17:30**** Daily Flt. #616 at 17:30****
FROM: ST. VINCENT TO UNION ISLAND Mon.–Fri. Flt. #151 at 08:15 Daily Flt. #605 at 10:15***
FROM: UNION ISLAND TO ST. VINCENT Mon.–Fri. Flt. #511 at 08:45 Daily Flt. #519 at 17:30**** Daily Flt. #616 at 17:30****
***Please note these flights depart
15 minutes earlier effective March 9th, 2014 to November 1st, 2014. Therefore the departure time will be 10:00. ****Please note these flights depart 30 minutes earlier effective March 9th, 2014 to November 1st, 2014. Therefore the departure time will be 17:00. 3
Barbados Nick-named ‘Little England’, and known affectionately by locals as ‘Bim’, the island of Barbados was first settled in 1627, marking the start of an uninterrupted period of British rule that was to last for 339 years until independence was granted in 1966. It’s the easternmost of the Lesser Antilles and lies around 100 miles east of St. Vincent & the Grenadines – but, unlike St. Vincent, it’s primarily a low-lying island of coral-limestone composition. With a bustling international airport, the island is easily accessed both from Europe and North America and this, in part, has resulted in a highly developed
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tourism infrastructure with many world-class hotels, gourmet restaurants and excellent duty-free shopping. The south and west coasts boast beautiful white sand beaches and the calm, azure waters of the Caribbean. The east coast offers rugged beauty and great surfing from the tumbling waves that roll in from the Atlantic. With a multitude of leisure activities available, it’s easy to see why Barbados has become one of the Caribbean’s top destinations – not only for tourists but also for investors and retirees. In addition to snorkelling, diving and sailing, visitors can explore wild life reserves, play a round of golf, take a helicopter ride, explore caves, enjoy the annual Crop Over festival and finish up the day by experiencing some of the festive nightlife.
Limegrove Lifestyle Centre Beyond retail therapy, Limegrove brings zest to luxury living. Written by Sarah Venable, Photos by Limegrove Lifestyle Centre
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ith nearly 85,000 feet of sales space stacked in stunning architecture, Limegrove is a retail wonderland, and more. It’s the newest addition to Holetown, on the rim of Barbados’ platinum coast, a place that already tempts visitors with assorted allures. Beach life, dining diversity, and shopping alternatives from groceries to gemstones – all within walking distance. “Build it and they will come,” was the developer Paul Altman’s guiding belief. He was right. It’s as if upscale brands were all waiting for a venue like this. Louis Vuitton certainly was; this jewel of the jet set required the proper setting. Now that Limegrove exists, Cartier, Dior, Gucci and others have slid into place like pearls on a string. Designed as a series of environments flowing between three distinctive courtyards, Limegrove is cosmopolitan and exciting yet peaceful. There’s always somewhere to sit, hook up to wi-fi, or listen to the classical music floating down from baby grand, player pianos. In one courtyard, thick with food options, a three-storey water wall descends into a fountained pool. Embraced by cool colonnades, another features stately palms. The third attracts action with its lively bar scene.
Global luxury brands are just steps away from local boutiques like Kartusche and Gatsby’s. Food options are international – even within the venues. For example, Singapura, the Asian food specialist, bows to Bajan tradition by offering pudding and souse on Saturdays. And the shopping! The long list includes skincare, leather goods, clothing and accessories, watches, jewellery, greeting cards, designer eyewear, home decor, kitchenware, cigars, cosmetics, electronics, shoes to die for, luxury lingerie, and even silk travel pillows. As Limegrove’s name suggests, it’s also a place to “…lime”. For starters, you can eat your way around the globe in the cafes –indoors or out, or simply join a friend for smoothies or pastry and cappuccino. You can go to the cinema, where samosas, hummus, cheese plates, beer and wine are among the snack options. Order on entering and it’s delivered to your big, comfy seat – which might be a plump chaise longue down front. You can attend an art opening in the snazzy gallery upstairs, or a fashion show, or charity events at the elegant rooftop bar where the afterparty for Rihanna’s “Loud” concert was held. Couples can enjoy separate pursuits. While the ladies get groomed, the men 5
can retreat to La Casa del Habano, a cigar lounge that caters to both the connoisseur and the curious. Whatever your gender, you could spend some time getting pampered. To get waxed or relaxed, correct skin problems, or just feel good, Glo Spa is the place to escape.
What to do with the children? Treat them to a session at Playcreation, where toys, creative activities, and a playground keep them happily occupied. A nanny service is also offered. On Saturday afternoons, take them along to Limebar where they offer tea for mums and games for kids. Limebar features fine mixologists, an appealing multi-culti menu, and a lively rota of evening events ranging from live listening or dancing DJ music to a monthly book and poetry night. Bonus niceness: Overall, Limegrove has the friendliest, most well-spoken and best-informed salespeople in Barbados. And if you love it here, you can move in! Residences flank the rear of the ten-acre plot. See it all at www.limegrove.com. â– 6
St. Vincent
The largest island in the country of St. Vincent & the Grenadines – ‘mainland’ St. Vincent – is approximately 21 miles long and 11 miles wide. Its neighbours are St. Lucia to the north and Grenada to the south. The island does not have mega-resorts, wild night life or shopping malls, but what it does offer is some of the finest natural beauty to be found anywhere in the Eastern Caribbean – it’s an ecotourist’s paradise. In the north is a semi-active 4,048-foot volcano, La Soufrière, up which more energetic visitors can hike and enjoy unparalleled views. The less adventurous may choose to visit the oldest botanical gardens in the western hemisphere, on the outskirts of the capital, Kingstown. Here you’ll find a famous breadfruit tree, a direct descendant of the ones brought from Tahiti by Captain Bligh of ‘Mutiny on the Bounty’ fame.
The lush volcanic soil is perfect for agriculture and St. Vincent produces an abundance of fruit and vegetables which supply many other nearby islands. In the beautiful Mesopotamia Valley you’ll find picturesque terraced farms and banana plantations. If you’re wondering how to cool off on a hot day, you can visit one of the many waterfalls and take a refreshing dip. The charming capital, Kingstown has a great market, a variety of stores and numerous restaurants serving delicious local cuisine. On the south coast, you’ll find many small, friendly hotels and also the popular yacht harbours at Young Island and Blue Lagoon. St. Vincent has become one of the major yachting centres in the region, and being just a stone’s throw from Bequia, northernmost of the Grenadines, it’s the ideal place from which to start your cruise. St. Vincent’s rich heritage, vibrant culture and breathtaking beauty make it an unforgettable destination – somewhere between heaven and earth ... but a little closer to heaven.
Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
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0DULQHUV +RWHO
The Mariners Hotel is a beautifully designed 21-bedroom boutique hotel, offering total style and comfort to its guests. Each elegantly decorated room has air conditioning, en-suite bathroom facilities, cable television, free wifi internet, direct-dial telephone, and a private balcony giving you unparalleled panoramic views of the turquoise Caribbean Sea.
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0DULQHUV +RWHO
Villa Beach, Box 859, Kingstown, St. Vincent, West Indies
SVG Tel: 1-784-457-4000 SVG Fax: 1-784-457-4333 US Tel: 1-201-855-4000 www.marinershotel.com E-mail: frontdesk@marinershotel.com
“Affordable Comfort�
JAZZ on the GREEN Written by The Friends of Jazz. Photos by Seymour Hinds
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ush green forested hills, the sounds of a flowing river, a sense of calm and serenity, the natural amphitheatre created in the surrounds of the Emerald Valley Casino, all nestled within the mountains of Vermont on the leeward side of St. Vincent, set the stage for Jazz on the Green.
This jazz event is exclusively organized and promoted in April each year by the Friends of Jazz, a non-profit organization, tasked with exposing patrons to regional and international performers of the art form while developing the love of jazz on the mainland of the multi island nation of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, all in
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pursuit of raising funds for various local charities. The 5th Anniversary of the event was held on Saturday April 27, 2013, featuring Jamaica Jazz Invasion with Judy Emmanuel and Dwight Richards as one of the major acts. The group, collectively and individually, has performed at various jazz, cabaret and reggae events all over the world including, the St Lucia Jazz Festival, the Montreux Jazz Festival, Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, Air Jamaica Jazz and Blues Festival, Reggae Sunsplash and Rebel Salute. Also in the line up were Boo Hinkson of St. Lucia, Nicholas Brancher of Barbados and the Eriq Ildefonse Quartet.
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Over the years, the event has featured a number of popular entertainers including Impact Jazz Band, A.J. Browne, Cesar Lopez and the Cubana Ensemble, Dr. Kathy Brown and Tia Fuller who performed as the saxophonist with international recording artist Beyonce in her all-girl band. Friends of Jazz has generously donated much needed items to the Milton Cato Memorial Hospital and the Lewis Punnet Home in St. Vincent. The group has also provided financial assistance to a number of individuals to assist with their medical expenses. Platinum and Gold sponsors for the event are First Citizens and the Bank of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, who both recognize the importance of giving back to the community. â–
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Bequia Bequia, the name derived from a Carib Indian word meaning ‘Island of the Clouds’, lies nine miles south of St. Vincent and is just 7 square miles. Bequia is home to just under 5000 people. The inhabitants, some of whom are descendants of 19th-century Scottish sailors, are friendly, easy-going and always happy to strike up a conversation with broad smiles on their faces. The island is steeped in sea-faring traditions such as boat-building, fishing and whaling. Although there’s an airport, the majority of visitors still arrive by boat. It wasn’t so long ago that the local ferry was the old schooner Friendship Rose that would be piled high with passengers, fruit, vegetables and possibly a few goats and chickens as well. The main harbour, at Admiralty Bay, is 12
Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
one of the most popular cruising yachtsmen’s hang-outs in the region. Along the waterfront you can find a number of great places to eat, drink and party – all within a few minutes’ walk of each other. The picturesque capital of Port Elizabeth has a sleepy, old-world ambience and you can walk from one end to the other in 20 minutes. There’s a great handicraft market and also an excellent fresh fruit and vegetable market. Ask for directions and you could be told to ‘turn left at the almond tree’. Apart from world-class beaches, and excellent snorkelling and diving, there are some wonderful hiking trails. Worthwhile is a visit to the rugged east coast, which is wind-swept, thinly populated, and has stunning views of the Atlantic. Bequia – sweet, sweet, sweet!
A Weekend in Paradise Written by Heather Grant. Photos by Wilfred Dederer and Iain Grant
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or Proust it was tea and madeleines, for the rest of us, we recommend the Bequia Beach Hotel. Step back in time. Turn back your clock to a gentler, softer time; come to the Caribbean, specifically to Bequia in the Grenadines. Perched astride the long golden beach of Bequia's Friendship Bay is the latest jewel of the Grenadines, the Bequia Beach Hotel. Wake to the lapping of the Caribbean Sea, the quiet dignity of the frigate birds, the fragrance of tropical flowers and the constant breeze of the trade winds.
A decade long labour of love, bornagain-Bequian-Swede Bengt Mortstedt has designed and constructed a luxury resort on Bequia’s south coast that offers the essence of luxurious tranquility for a hundred fortunate guests. The resort’s 58 suites, composed of beachfront, garden view, classic sea view, private villas and a penthouse suite border the Caribbean Sea, and are set in 9 acres of verdant gardens with towering palms. Meticulously finished guest suites are sumptuously appointed and very private. Comfort and elegance exemplify the
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accommodation. Gracious, comfortable, eclectic furniture allows guests to relax in their private sitting room or lounge on their own terrace. Every convenience has been taken into account, from top quality amenities in the spacious well appointed bathrooms to chilled bottled water stored in the ensuite wine cooler. Guests’ needs are provided for in a gym and full service spa with the skilled hands of massage therapists and beauticians. The culinary delights at ‘Bagatelle’, the resort’s main restaurant, combine 14
international flair and presentation with the freshest local ingredients – your ‘catch of the day’ might be better described as caught-an-hour-ago. Lobster night is special indeed, with the freshest local langouste served in a variety of delicious ways, whether simply grilled or prepared with a meticulously created sauce. On Wednesdays and Saturdays there is live entertainment adjacent to the Beach Bar and Bagatelle. Local artists offer a variety of music to while away the evening under the stars.
If the main, curvaceous swimming pool is the centre attraction during the day, with its cabanas, and shading umbrellas, the heart of the complex is the elegant Oliver Messel (of Mustique architectural fame) inspired reception building, combining a greeting function (unparalleled by anything we have encountered in any hotel) with elegant reading room inviting you to pick up a book, put up your feet and settle into this original early 20th century era. Artwork throughout the hotel is by Kerne Erickson, evoking the impression of a bygone era. Bequia Beach Hotel is an ideal hub for those who wish to explore the many delights of Bequia and islands of the Grenadines ‌ the turtle sanctuary, the annual Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest, the many shops and restaurants of Port Elizabeth, the challenges of the golf course in nearby Canouan and the awardwinning diving and snorkelling of the Tobago Cays. On the drawing board is access for the mega yacht crowd, afforded by a dock to
accommodate several of these floating beauties, with the amenities needed to keep shipboard systems operating. Transportation from dock to hotel will be provided so that these passing guests can avail themselves of the spa, beach, pool, restaurant and other features offered by the hotel to all its guests. When asked what they remember most of their Bequia Beach experience, guests all stress the charm, peacefulness, and friendly staff who seem genuinely delighted to see them each day and sad to see them go. â–
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Celebrating New Year’s Eve – Bequia style! Written by Peter Smith Photos by Wilfred Dederer
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n earlier times on New Year’s Eve (or ”Old Year’s Night” as it is fondly called in Bequia), families living around the shores of Admiralty Bay were happy to be entertained at midnight by the sight of yachts at anchor setting off their out-of date flares. When it came to the Millennium however, Bequia was determined to see in the 21st century in style and that meant just one thing – fireworks!
The Frangipani Hotel took up the challenge by spearheading celebration plans, securing the support of other businesses and tracking down an enthusiastic group of budding pyro-technicians who, armed only with good sense, bravado and lighted cigarettes for fuses, put on a show that Bequia will never forget. Five years later, in 2005, former Prime Minister Sir James Mitchell championed the formation of the official Bequia New Year’s Eve Celebration Committee and it is this all-volunteer group that has ensured the success of Bequia’s New Year’s Eve midnight display ever since, coordinating every last detail from fundraising, purchasing and import, to the set-up and management of close to ½ ton of pyro. And what a show it has become! Despite regulations which restrict the shipment and import of fireworks to “Consumer” grade, the 15-minute display – now electronically controlled but still designed and meticulously planned by the original “Bang Gang” of 2000 – never fails to amaze. Thanks to the consistent generosity of a wide range of private and business donors and the support of the authorities, Bequia today enjoys a New Year’s Eve celebration tradition that delights its residents and draws visitors and yachts from around the world. As New Year’s Eve approaches, the harbour fills with hundreds of boats of every description, waterfront restaurants take bookings thick and fast, vantage points are discussed and the island is abuzz with expectation. It’s Bequia’s big night and the word has spread ... 17
Meanwhile, on a sand-filled barge right by the market and in the blazing midday heat, the Bang Gang is carefully unwrapping cases and wiring up fuses, individually covering every piece just in case of rain. Five hours prep and they should be done – time for a quick supper and keep on praying that the clouds stay away. As night falls, the parties get going, the island dines and the Bang Gang waits. Then, on the stroke of midnight, the steel band breaks into Auld Lang Syne and – WHOOSHH!!! Right on cue the first “Big Honkin’ Star” bursts over the head of the harbour in Admiralty Bay. Flares fly up from yachts and the packed crowds that line the waterfront cheering like mad, clutching their friends in delight and holding their heads in wonder as the display moves through to its stunning finale. The cries of ‘Happy New Year!’ are drowned out, but no one cares. There’s plenty of time to keep celebrating after the last “Shooting Star” has fallen. Dance till dawn? Party on under the stars? No problem! New Year’s Eve is Bequia doing what it does best – providing memories for all that will last forever. For more information or to make a donation to Bequia’s 2014 fireworks display, contact fireworks@vincysurf.com. ■
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Mustique Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
The mere mention of Mustique conjures up images of fabulous villas, European Royalty and glamorous popstars; certainly, this privately owned island, originally purchased and developed by Colin Tennant in 1958, is a playground for the rich and famous. However, there’s a lot more to Mustique than glitz and glamour. For starters, the three square mile island has some of the finest beaches in the Grenadines – Macaroni Beach, on the east coast, is consistently rated as one of the ten top beaches in the southern Caribbean with its ‘Whiter than White’ sand and its ‘Bluer than Blue’ water, and a shaded picnic area under the palms. Although small, Mustique is fairly hilly, so walking long distances can be fairly hard work – the best way to get around is by mule (not a donkey, but a 22
gasoline-powered golf cart – though if you drive one you’ll know why it’s called a mule!). For genuine equestrians, there’s also an excellent stable where you can hire thoroughbred horses and gallop down deserted white sand beaches. With its gently rolling hills, low-key ambience, amazing beaches and great diving, it’s easy to see why the island is such a popular destination. Britannia Bay, the yacht harbour, is the main focus of activity with a small fishing village, a couple of stores and the legendary Basil’s Bar, home to the annual Mustique Blues Festival. The building of private homes has been limited to 140, and the island, whilst offering a complete infrastructure of roads, water, electricity and other facilities, retains a leisurely feel and a distinctive character of tranquil elegance that is uniquely Mustique.
Colin Tennant – A Reection Written by Dara Smith Photos by Basil Charles
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he epitome of great wealth is the notion that you can buy your own island. A fabulous fantasy until one closely examines the details of such an undertaking. Particulars like electricity, jetty, airstrip, fresh water, waste disposal, medical, materials for building, accommodation for workers, and day-to-day provisioning. Only the heartiest dreamers of pioneer spirit can hold hope and tenacity to see such a mission through. Colin Tennant (Lord Glenconner) was born of the aristocracy and heir to the fortunes of his family business. He had served in World War II and been well educated. Travelling post-war Europe he began to form a notion of his own community. The colonies of the Caribbean seemed to offer that blank canvas he needed. After his marriage to Lady Anne he began to look in earnest to manifest this home of his imagination. In 1959 while on assignment at the family business in Trinidad, Colin longed to create a utopia of like-minded people whose hedonistic passions could be shared on a remote island in the West Indies. He purchased Mustique Island, a once thriving plantation, from the Hazel family. Little rain falls on Mustique and
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the plantation business was not yielding great profits so the island was a bargain at $40,000. While Mustique may not have been good farm land, Colin saw potential in its fabulous beaches and rolling hills – albeit bare hills at the time. Colin was a man of extreme spirit. The ‘common sense’ filter that guides most minds seemed absent in Colin and so he drove by sheer force of will and guile his community of interesting and worthy people to fruition. Wouk’s “Don’t Stop the Carnival” does not begin to illustrate the challenges of the early decades where water was scarce or non-existent, roads were primitive paths through pasture, electricity and food deliveries irregular and the mosquitoes swarmed everywhere. Unrelenting, Colin pursued his vision as the island grew in popularity and notoriety. Eventually, his impractical ways put
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the island in a financial corner that no amount of will could overcome. He sold the island in the late 1980’s to a consortium of Mustique’s homeowners and ultimately left for St. Lucia. In St. Lucia, at the famous Pitons, Colin began again. His care and concern for the local village, as it had on Mustique, became the cornerstone of the development there; Beau Estate and his restaurant Bang Between the Pitons.
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As he had in Mustique, he drew around him a theatre of wonder – going so far as to acquire his own elephant for his Indian inspired compound. The project in St. Lucia was somewhat of a success and it was his last. Colin died at 83 at his home in St. Lucia. Mustique is, in many ways, the island Colin dreamed of. Populated with interesting people, spectacular villas, a sanctuary of the well heeled, it is a natural paradise. Wild forests vibrate with birdsong, tortoises languish in grasses, mangroves incubate new life and the living is easy. The beaches are sublime, the electricity, water, transportation, provisioning and safety are among the finest in the world. Colin’s dream was not folly after all. While no elephants roam the roadside, Mustique is in many ways the miracle he had hoped to create. ■
The Southern Grenadines Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
It was when tourism was introduced in the 20th century that the Grenadine islands really started to flourish with their dazzling beauty, crystal-clear waters, stunning beaches and spectacular coral gardens. Although the islands lie close together, each has a charm and character of its own – from the elegant grandeur of privately-owned Mustique, the rich diversity of Canouan, the timelessness of Mayreau, the exclusivity of Palm Island and Petit
St. Vincent Resorts, the relative bustle of Union Island to the pure wonder of the Tobago Cays. The Tobago Cays, a pristine marine park, must surely be the jewel in St.Vincent’s crown – five deserted islands set behind a horseshoe reef in one of the most magnificent settings it is possible to imagine. Accessible only by boat, the cays are one of the natural wonders of the western hemisphere and a must for any visitor. 27
Lionfish Written by and photos by Arun Madisetti
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ionfish pose possibly the greatest danger to regional reefs ever. Endemic to the Indian and Pacific Oceans and Red Sea, they now range from North Carolina to as far south as Brazil in the Atlantic. Genetically isolated to nine fish either escaped or released in Florida they are out-competing and claiming reefs at all depths (found as deep as 182m/600ft) as their own. Capable of eating anything up to half their body length, they mature extremely early and are capable of producing up to 15,000 eggs a week. The egg masses float on currents till they hatch out and a 28
new population is created. Prized in the aquarium trade they really are a graceful and very beautiful fish. Most islands have a policy on lionfish now – some work some don’t. Fishermen in most places are encouraged to kill them and toss them back in the sea. They do however make wonderful eating and are fast becoming more popular in restaurants and homes. Despite their good looks the Lionfish do pack venom in the dorsal (back), pectoral and pelvic spines. This toxin is rapidly broken down using hot water. Since the venom is contained within the spines, even discarded ones should be handled with care. Dominica is held up as the regional leader in what a small island with limited resources can do to tackle a problem like this. Prior to the arrival of any Lionfish, a
sensitization programme was undertaken and the Fisheries Division conducted outreach training at all fish landing sites. The Dominica Watersports Association (DWA) launched an education programme to teach fishermen and school children about the fish and to explain the effects of uncontrolled population increases. Most important is that they are incredibly good eating. A database has been set up to log all kills by the DWA and is shared with Fisheries. In many places, lionfish on the menu outsells more traditional fish and there is a demand for more in the markets, hotels and restaurants alike.
The sad news is that, despite all the efforts to control populations, the US aquarium trade was still permitted the importation of 60,000 juvenile lionfish from South East Asia in 2012. Unfortunately, there is no happy ending to this story, but bon apetit. â–
It has been shown regionally that repeated diving by scuba and spearfishers on certain reefs can control populations, but this is only within safe diving limits and most islands have policies in place regarding spearfishing. Given that they like twilight to hunt, any deep reefs and wrecks provide ample space for them to congregate and reproduce in relative safety. If you see one lionfish on a reef, chances are there are many more. As a region and individually, the islands have to adopt policies to tackle lionfish, otherwise local food fish will, as in the Bahamas, disappear. It is said that up to 85% of the local fish have disappeared from Bahamian reefs. 29
Canouan Photo Š Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
Unspoiled and virtually undiscovered, Canouan is a lush tropical paradise in the southern Grenadines with wide, white sandy beaches, crystal clear and calm blue waters, lush, green hilly terrain, and one of the largest living coral reefs in the Caribbean that teems with brightly coloured aquatic life offering incredible diving and snorkelling. Canouan is located in the heart of the Grenadines, within easy reach of neighbouring Mustique, Mayreau and the Tobago Cays and 110 miles southwest of Barbados and, with direct flights from Barbados, Puerto Rico, and St. Vincent, visitors can now enjoy painless air access. Canouan is just five square miles in size and formerly a community of some 700 farmers and fishermen. The now expanding local population still includes fishermen, proud of their community heritage as boat builders 30
and harvesters of the sea. Models of the traditional wooden boats are still lovingly constructed by hand. Laughter prevails as a vital ingredient of this community, and the sounds of happy children and elders create a feeling of traveling into an easier place and time. Canouan manages to retain a distinct quality inherited from another time in history. Boasting an airport runway, a luxury resort with one of the most spectacular championship 18-hole golf course designed by Jim Fazio and a natural harbour for yachts, Canouan has become more and more popular with visitors. The variety of amenities, restaurants and accommodation has grown and there are now many excellent value guesthouses where visitors will be assured of a warm welcome. In spite of all the development, the principal settlement of Charlestown retains its distinctly Caribbean flavour and has not lost any of its island charm.
Buon Appetito A small taste of Italy Our Delicatessen offers a fine selection of extra virgin olive oils, cheeses, pastas, cold cuts, pate de fois gras and an incredible array of preserved fruit and marinated vegetables. All sourced from different regions of Italy. We also offer the best Italian wine selection from Brunello di Montalcino which is considered one of the finest compared to Chianti Classico. Quality products at affordable prices – we cater gourmet picnic lunches, take away specialties, or that treat for someone special. Located at Tamarind Beach Hotel, Canouan Island
Tel: 1.784.458.8044 – Fax: 1.784.458.8851
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Culinary Adventures in the Caribbean Written by and photos by Heather Grant
M
ost people do not immediately think of haute cuisine when contemplating a trip to the Caribbean. The region has not developed a name for gastronomy. Tourists do not flock to take cooking courses here, as they do in France and Tuscany, for example, and probably do not choose their Caribbean holidays based on the superb food on offer. But the times they are a-changing. The Caribbean produces some wonderful, tasty, eye-catching food. The climate encourages rapid year round growth – winter does not exist here! Add to this a diverse population from one end of the region to the other, and you have the ingredients for some exotic and tasty culinary delights. When you think about the different countries that have owned, stolen, managed and generally influenced the Caribbean, it is not surprising to find multiple influences on cuisine. Puerto Rico’s Spanish influence, Trinidad’s Indian population, the Dutch in St. Maarten and the French in Martinique and Guadeloupe – all have developed over the centuries to shape what people do with what they grow. 32
Throughout the region, one comes across the same foods over and over again – the ubiquitous mango, lime, papaya (paw paw), callalloo, pumpkin, christophene and plantain, Variations in the preparation and cooking of these fruit and vegetables reflect the local culture of each island, keeping it interesting for those who travel from one to the other. Hotels and restaurants are offering fresh, local fare cooked and served with flare. There is a generation of creative young chefs who realize that local produce is preferable. They fuse their sometimes international, but more and more often, local cooking skills with the freshest of ingredients, purchased minutes away at the local market or fish vendor.
In the past, holiday-makers tended to ask for strawberries, asparagus and apples because they were familiar with them. A first time visitor to the Caribbean may not recognize the local fruit and vegetables and often feels ill-informed about what to do with them. Travellers to the islands have perhaps not heard of soursop ice cream, stuffed snake gourd or callalloo soup so would not know what to ask for, let alone how to prepare them. So what is there for holiday makers who wish to cook their own meals, or mega yacht chefs looking for fresh produce to satisfy their discerning guests? Most islands have wonderful local markets overflowing with fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs and fish. A tomato that has never been refrigerated, a red snapper just plucked from the sea – what could be better? No long days or weeks of transportation, no fossil fuel expended, no fruits rendered flavourless by being picked unripe. The markets are vibrant, colourful spots that provide an experience in themselves. It is fun to chat with the vendors about politics, family, the culture of the area
and most importantly – how to cook what you want to purchase – a wonderful Caribbean adventure. Why not take a culinary trip while exploring the Caribbean? You will find foods that you never knew existed just waiting to captivate your tastebuds. There is no better experience than to bite into a sun ripened mango straight from the tree; taste mashed green figs (bananas) with salt fish for breakfast, savour a typical guava pudding for dessert – these gastronomic delights help to make your Caribbean holiday a once in a lifetime experience. Look out for Caribbean Food and Drink by Heather Grant, available at Erika’s Marine Services, Union Island or online at: http://www.erikamarine.com/ SuperyachtServices.html. ■
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Mayreau Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
Situated 7 miles south of Canouan and with a population of only 250, Mayreau can only be reached by sailing boat or ferry – once there it’s very hard to leave. This little gem of the Caribbean has unspoiled, picture postcard beaches and bays and is ideally situated for a ‘land and sea’ vacation. From there it is easy to take short trips by sail or speedboat to the nearby islands. Days can be spent picnicking and sunbathing on the wide swathes of deserted beaches or snorkelling in the calm, clear waters – this is the quintessential place to get away from it all. Mayreau is a small island and therefore perfect to explore on foot. With only one main road running between Saltwhistle Bay and Saline Bay, the island’s entire length can be walked in an hour. A short 34
hike up ‘Station Hill’ brings visitors to the picturesque village of Old Wall with its quaint church from where there are spectacular vistas of the Caribbean Sea and nearby islands. There are several bars and informal restaurants offering home cooking, refreshments and where guests are treated like long lost friends. Known for its safe anchorage, Saltwhistle Bay in the north has a beautiful tree-lined beach and exceptionally calm water that is perfect for swimming. All of the beaches have powdery white sand and even the windward beaches are protected by reefs. There’s no glitz and glamour in Mayreau and life hasn’t changed much in the past 40 years or so – it’s an undemanding place with a timeless charm where simple pleasures make a stay here well worthwhile.
Palm Island Photo Š Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
It was originally called Prune Island. The former owners (John Caldwell and his wife Mary) renamed it Palm when they set about to transform the island into a truly palm island by planting hundreds of coconut trees. Rob Barrett, the proud owner of Palm Island, has made it into what can arguably be called the perfect resort location. It is located just about a mile from Union Island where a private boat will meet and transport you to this privately owned and exclusive island resort which
is all that is on this 135 acre island paradise. White sandy beaches and crystal clear water surround Palm Island. It is the perfect getaway for nature lovers and those who want to relax and do nothing but enjoy this fabulous, all-inclusive resort. Casuarina Beach, a special favourite amongst resort guests, runs along the entire western side of the island. Non-resident visitors are always welcome provided that prior arrangements are made.
Tobabo Cays Horseshoe Reef
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Union Island Photo © Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
Located just 40 miles south of St. Vincent, Union Island, the crossroad of the Grenadines, is often called ‘Little Tahiti’ because of its high, almost vertical peaks which, on a clear day, are visible from St. Vincent’s capital, Kingstown. For yachtsmen, Clifton Harbour (like Bequia) is a main provisioning stop, and the place to obtain fuel, ice, water or internet access. The main harbour has two small marinas, moorings, and a great anchorage behind Newland’s Reef which is close to two interesting and somewhat unique islands – Newland’s Island (unique as it has a population of one) and Happy Island (unique because it was built by an enterprising gentleman named Shanti. He spent a year dumping several boat-loads of sand, conch shells, 38
coconut and palm fronds into an area of water just inside the reef thus creating his own island). The town of Clifton is a “bustling” by Grenadine standards and boasts great places to eat at reasonable prices. There are several stores and water-front guest houses, and the local people (the island has a population of around 2,500) are warm and friendly. With a small airport and several local boat operators, Union is the perfect place for a day cruise to the central Grenadines, being less than an hour from the neighbouring islands of Mayreau, Petit St. Vincent and the Tobago Cays, none of which can be accessed by air. There are regular flights to Union not only from St. Vincent, Bequia, Mustique and Canouan, but also from Barbados.
Explore the beautiful islands of St Vincent and the Grenadines
MAYREAU
MORPION
Ti Marouba
52ft long catamaran Max capacity – 40 persons
PALM ISLAND
MUSTIQUE
BEQUIA
TOBAGO CAYS
Sun Spirit
62ft long catamaran Max capacity – 70 persons
CANOUAN
Sky Flirt
85ft long catamaran Max capacity – 80 persons
Wind and Sea SPECIALIST IN DAY SAILING CHARTERS
www.grenadines-windandsea.com • windandsealtd@gmail.com Bougainvilla, Clifton, Union Island • Tel: 1 784 458 8678 • Cell: 1 784 493 3128
Petit St. Vincent PSV is a tranquil private island paradise tucked away in the southern Grenadines, just 5 miles from Union Island. PSV is a popular hideaway resort in the Caribbean. This unique private island caters to a discerning set of visitors, offering 22 one and two bedroom cottages that provide the ultimate in privacy and luxury with no telephone or TV in the rooms. Guests simply hoist a yellow flag to summon room service (a waiter will 40
Photo Š Jonathan Palmer – Mustique Airways
appear in a mini-moke car) or a red flag to just be left alone. Barefoot elegance and unobtrusive attentive service have made PSV a favourite with travellers who enjoy the pristine beauty of this mildly sloped, lush garden of Eden, surrounded by two miles of white sand beach and turquoise waters. The sheltered channel anchorage is popular with yachtsmen who can come ashore for the best tropical drinks, light lunches and evening bar snacks.
Basil’s Bar • Mustique Established in 1976, Basil’s Bar is built on stilts on a rock overlooking the majestic Britannia Bay. Voted “one of the best bars in the world” by Newsweek since 1987, and capturing the #37 spot on CNN Travel’s list of the World’s 50 Best Beach Bars. It’s “a place where sailors party with business moguls, fashion models, gardeners, rock stars and school teachers”. Basil’s has a reputation as one of the finest seafood restaurants in the Caribbean. Join us year-round for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and our Wednesday night BBQ Jump-up. Basil’s is home of the only Blues Festival in the Caribbean happening January 22 – February 5, 2014, and our New Year’s Eve celebration should not be missed. At Basil’s in Villa, just across from Young Island on St. Vincent, carries gift items and contemporary furniture from Bali and other parts of Asia. Our Boutique at Basil’s Bar on Mustique features great silks from India, casual wear, silk Kaftans by Camilla, and our famous Basil’s Bar T-Shirts. Just up the road from Basil’s Bar is the Mustique General Store which stocks fine wines, cheeses and gourmet products. Across Forever features antiques from Bali and India, furniture from Asia and beyond, a magnificent collection of contemporary pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting, accessories and more. Like us on Facebook, and check us out when you next visit Mustique Downstairs Cobblestone Inn is where you find Basil’s Bar Kingstown. Sit and relax in air-conditioned comfort and enjoy a delightful cocktail, our daily buffet lunch, á la carte breakfast, lunch or dinner. We are also a full-service catering company for lunch, dinners, weddings and any special occasion. Email basilsbarkingstown@vincysurf.com or telephone (784) 457-2713.
Basil’s Bar Mustique • St. Vincent www.basilsbar.com Tel: (784) 488-8407/8350/8405 Fax: (784) 456-5825