A p r i l 2 0 1 6 • ` 1 5 0 • VO l . 4
LA VIDA LOCAL
escape from routine to costa rica
shAOLIn summer
kung fu and confucius in china
iSSUE 10
Off the
Grid Journeys of discovery into the new and unfamiliar
Plus diy Guide to trekking to the everest base camp
n a t i o n a l g e o g r a p h i c t r av e l l e r i n d i a
april 2016
Contents Vol 4 Issue 10
off THe grid
through kung fu training and Confucian wisdom, a struggling mother and daughter learn how to roll with the punches in China By Kaylie Jones
88
Top of The World
after the disastrous earthquake that rocked nepal last april, the Everest trail is open again. Here’s a diy guide to trekking to the Everest Base Camp By Natasha Sahgal with Niloufer Venkatraman
88 Everest Base Camp trail, Nepal
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national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
80
la Vida local
a family escapes new york to embrace the native way of life on Costa rica’s mellow coast, and discovers the joy of simple ways Text By Johanna Berkman photographs By Krista rossow
104
iT TakeS a Village
an american cuts off ties for a month in papua in indonesia, and leaves with deeper connections than he imagined possible Text & photographs By Carl Hoffman
kat palasi/majority world/dinodia
70
Shaolin Summer
r e n
W
in
dreams do come true
CONTEST
Dharmika TanDon
froM MUMBAI
wON a Trip fOr TwO TO SwiTzErlaNd THE PRIZE 2 return tickets to Zurich from Delhi/Mumbai, courtesy Swiss International Airlines 3 nights stay in a hotel on twin sharing basis, including breakfast, courtesy Switzerland Tourism 2 eight-day first class Swiss Travel Passes, courtesy Swiss Travel System* *Detailed terms and conditions available at: www.natgeotraveller.in/magazine/month/swiss-special/swiss-contest
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VoiCeS
A P R I L 2 0 1 6 • ` 1 5 0 • VO L . 4
ISSUE 10
62 Taste of Travel
Boutique foods and a craft beer wave redefine wellington in new Zealand
22 inside out
an artist’s rendition of the human form helps a traveller appreciate imperfect bodies under the blanket of night-time travel, new sights come to light
N aV i g aT e
26 The neighbourhood
seoul’s myeong-dong is the epicentre of the battle against ageing
34 heritage
Beyond the obvious attraction of birding, Bharatpur has a rich history
38 Book extract
valmik thapar’s Winged Fire documents avian encounters through the ages
44 geotourism
SHorT BreaKS LA VIDA LOCAL
ESCAPE FROM ROUTINE TO COSTA RICA
SHAOLIN SUMMER
KUNG FU AND CONFUCIUS IN CHINA
OFF THE
GRID Journeys of discovery into the new and unfamiliar
PLUS DIY GUIDE TO TREKKING TO THE EVEREST BASE CAMP
On The COver photographer Ramiro Olaciregui captures a pair of children playing at nahuel Huapi lake in argentina’s remote patagonia region. this month’s theme explores how travellers increasingly undertake journeys of discovery to new and unfamiliar places, seeking to immerse themselves in an off the grid experience.
Blooms thrive in jodhpur’s rao jodha desert rock park
48 on foot
reliving 1,000 years of delhi’s history at the mehrauli archaeological park
54 local flavour
kithul treacle from the fishtail palm is a sweet sri lankan secret
56 around the World
from addis ababa to stockholm, six ways to enjoy a cup of coffee
58 detour
the ski resort of le Châble in switzerland, without the skiers
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national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
regularS 16 editor’s Note 18 Notebook 122 Inspire 128 strange planet
from delhi
114 Holy ghats and cool cafés in the temple town of pushkar
Stay
118 Colonial charm and gastronomic delights at a shimla homestay 120
a forest lodge in tadoba is an antidote to the maladies of the urban jungle
34
luCas vallECillos/agE fotostoCk/dinodia (street), photo courtesy: positivEly wEllington tourism (beer), Hira punjaBi/lonEly planEt imagEs/gEtty imagEs (owl), ramiro olaCirEgui/momEnt/gEtty imagEs (cover)
24 crew cut
62 xx
Editor-in-Chief Niloufer VeNkatramaN Deputy Editor Neha Dara Senior Associate Editor DiYa kohli Associate Editor kareeNa GiaNaNi Features Writer rumela Basu Art Director DiViYa mehra Photo Editor chiroDeep chauDhuri Associate Art Director DeVaNG h. makwaNa Senior Graphic Designer chittaraNJaN moDhaVe Editor, Web Neha sumitraN Assistant Editor, Web saumYa aNcheri Features Writer faBiola moNteiro Features Writer kamakshi aYYar
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Disclaimer all rights reserved. reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. we do our best to research and fact-check all articles but errors may creep in inadvertently. all prices, phone numbers, and addresses are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. all opinions expressed by columnists and freelance writers are their ownand not necessarily those of National Geographic traveller india. we do not allow advertising to influence our editorial choices. all maps used in the magazine, including those of india, are for illustrative purposes only. About us National Geographic traveller india is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling that inspires travel. it is about family travel, about travel experiences, about discoveries, and insights. our tagline is “Nobody knows this world Better” and every story attempts to capture the essence of a place in a way that will urge readers to create their own memorable trips, and come back with their own amazing stories. copYriGht © 2016 NatioNal GeoGraphic societY. all riGhts reserVeD. NatioNal GeoGraphic traVeller: reGistereD traDemark ® marca reGistraDa.
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Editor’s Note |
n i lou f er ven katra m a n
To Go or NoT To Go
our mission
16
At the Great Pyramid
Great Pyramid, built in 2570 B.C. A long, dark, cramped passageway ascended to the empty King’s Chamber. Though I’d spent time admiring the pyramids from the outside, it was only when I was bending and ducking while climbing the steep ramps inside that I fully grasped the precision with which each of its granite blocks fit together. Sitting on the floor of the King’s Chamber, as I stared at nine huge slabs of granite weighing over 50 tonnes each, the magnitude of
the task of creating this structure almost 5,000 years ago hit home. To think that 2.3 million stone blocks, weighing an average of two tonnes each— and cut using nothing but copper tools—were used to build this pyramid is fascinating in theory. But sitting in the belly of the pyramid, what made my spine tingle was the realisation that I was witnessing first-hand, one of the biggest mysteries on Earth and one of the most mind-bending feats of architecture. A few days later, with some free time on hand in Luxor, I ventured out to explore the shops around my hotel. At the first store, once the owner learned I was from India, he started up a conversation about life in Mumbai and, of course, Bollywood. Twenty minutes later, I was leaving his shop without buying anything when he stopped me. From under the counter he pulled out a large jewellery box stacked with interesting brass rings and pendants, and asked me to choose one as a gift. I refused, protesting embarrassedly that I hadn’t even bought anything from his shop, nor was I likely to considering I was leaving the next day. He brushed that aside and pulled out a pretty ring with two owls on it. “My gift to a friend from beautiful India,” he said. Maybe Huxley was right, everyone really is wrong about other countries.
Tunnel inside the pyramid at Giza, Egypt
national Geographic traveller india is about immersive travel and authentic storytelling, inspiring readers to create their own journeys and return with amazing stories. our distinctive yellow rectangle is a window into a world of unparalleled discovery.
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
SAndrO VAnnInI/COrBIS/IMAGELIBrArY (tunnel)
B
efore my visit to Egypt last month, I debated whether or not I should go. I’d heard from various sources that it was unsafe, but the more I read, the more I became convinced that Egypt was as prone to a terrorist attack as India—no more or less. My gut feeling was that I should make the trip. I’m glad I did. Before I left, a colleague who had been there offered me some unsolicited advice. At Giza, “don’t bother going inside the Great Pyramid” he said, “it’s a waste of time, just an empty room.” He also gave his opinion of Egyptian shop owners—“they are worse than the guys trying to part you and your money at any Indian tourist site,” he said. In the crowded streets of Cairo, in the busy mosques and ancient temples filled with local tourists, I saw that life in Egypt goes on as normal. Within a few hours of being in the country I recognized what made the locals tick. For Egyptians, it is family that is most important. Everywhere I went I saw parents and relatives with children, infants barely a few weeks old, toddlers, and young children—in restaurants, mosques, on public transport, at tourist sites, in markets, just about anywhere a traveller might go. Every place was filled with chatter—it didn’t look like a country living in fear or under siege. Yes, I did see a lot of security (a good thing against threat) and the tourist police was always around at big-ticket monuments, but the average Egyptian is up and about, and domestic tourism is high. The early 20th-century writer Aldous Huxley once stated that “To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” This resonated with me during my travels through Egypt. Of course we must listen to travel advisories, and I know that governments have the safety of their citizens at heart when they discourage travel to certain areas. But I also know that often the perception of safety is skewed. Paris has had its share of attacks and Brussels was bombed recently. But no directive to avoid Paris or Brussels is likely to be issued. I’ve learned that in many instances you have to do your own research, follow your gut, and go where you think you will be safe. At the pyramids, against my colleague’s advice, I paid the extra fee to go inside the
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Hooked by the Hornbill For decades the elusive great Indian hornbill has kept wildlife cartoonist and birdwatcher Rohan Chakravarty on his toes, and lead him to grand misadventures. See Web Exclusives>Travel Sketches
Travel Scrapbook at our March Meetup in Mumbai, nGt india’s photo editor chirodeep chaudhuri, nGt india’s Web editor neha Sumitran, and sound designer ayush ahuja chatted with nGt india’s Deputy editor neha dara about how they record their travel memories and share them with the world. Some tips from the experts and the audience.
summer steals
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A foodie discovers the goodness of sugar-drenched jalebas and deep-fried purple yams at Sarafa Bazaar, Indore’s legendary night food market. See Web Exclusives>Guides
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the warmest memories i have of my recent trip to Singapore are splattered with watercolours. i bought these postcards, but didn’t have the heart to actually send them to friends. the postcard of Duxton road transports me to its lanes with historic shophouses that have now turned into hip bars and cafés. one glance at the coffeehouse postcard brings me a whiff of roasted beans. at Singapore’s kopitiams, kopi (coffee) is made in brass containers with long spouts and strained through a cloth sock. to sip kopi and watch the world go by was to know Singapore like an old friend. —Associate Editor, Kareena Ginani
■ Record sounds. Go beyond the sounds of nature. Language and local songs are exciting ways to discover a new place.
■ Pick and write about key sights and memories that elicit strong emotions for you.
■ Don’t let note-taking and recording eclipse enjoying the experience. Mindfulness makes the best travel memories. nExT mEETup: mumbai: on account of Gudi
padwa, the Mumbai Meetup will not be held in april. next Mumbai Meetup date is 13 may 2016, 7.30-9 p.m. venue: Title Waves bookstore, Bandra (West), mumbai.
delhi meetup: 16 april 2016, 6-7 p.m. venue: Bandstand, 214-216 aurobindo market, Hauz Khas, new delhi.
RohAn ChAkRAvARTy (illustration), kAReenA GInAnI (postcards)
indore food guide
■ Be curious about the people you want to photograph and make them comfortable in your presence.
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Weaving Memories i recently attended the Khajuraho Dance Festival, and strolled through its fairgrounds where stalls displayed a plethora of handicrafts. an artisan weaving a chanderi sari on a pit loom, one with a base fixed in a pit in the ground, caught my eye. the weaver asked if i’d like to try my hand at it. he made the process seem effortless, so i agreed. he gave me a quick lesson on how the threads must be held taut with the feet, and deftly moved along the loom’s wooden frame above the ground. i soon realised that operating the pit loom needs considerable arm strength and expertise. i did a dismal job of it, but gained deep respect for the art, and purchased a beautiful sari as a souvenir. —Features Writer, Rumela Basu
inSTaGram OF THE mOnTH
on a recent trip to Jordan, nGT India’s web editor neha Sumitran learned to make maqlooba, a Jordanian indulgence, much like an upside down biryani. It’s made by cooking meat, rice, and vegetables like eggplant and cauliflower in a heady stock flavoured with cardamom, cumin, cinnamon, and black pepper. The ingredients used in a Jordanian kitchen, she learned, are very similar to those we stock in Indian homes. yet, the cuisine is quite different: more subtle, simple, and light. when the maqlooba is cooked, it’s served bottoms-up on a platter, with a side of cucumber and yogurt, much like raita. The upside down move is useful—no need to dig for the meat— and the spectacle that accompanies the flip is entertaining too. FOllOW @naTGEOTravEllErindia On inSTaGram
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THE Find
High Stakes on a trip to istanbul, i combed the Grand Bazar for unusual curios, but didn’t find much. and then, the most innovative thing caught my eye—a chessboard where the pieces were figurines of world leaders and their adversaries. on one side stood George Bush, condoleezza rice, tony Blair and their allies. across them stood Saddam hussain, col. Gaddafi, osama Bin laden and other characters. it took some persuasion, but i managed to convince the shopkeeper to break the set and sell me two osama figurines. —Photo Editor, Chirodeep Chaudhuri
hRITu PAwAR (Weaving), nehA SuMITRAn (food), ChIRoDeeP ChAuDhuRI (statue)
Fare Play
Voices |
insi de ou t
Body Beautiful an artist’s rendition of tHe Human form Helps a traveller see beauty in imperfect bodies
Nirupama Subramanian is a columnist and author of two novels, Keep The Change and Intermission. She has also won the Commonwealth Short Story Competition prize in 2006 for her short fiction.
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national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
Jon Hicks/terra/corbis/imagelibrary
W
house without an orna (dupatta). in the name of modesty and e gaze at the Monolith, a tower made of human humility, the body is denied. it is gross matter, indecent, a bodies, naked limbs and hair, entwined with each traitorous thing, full of deceit and treachery. other, reaching for the heavens. it is 46 feet tall the sculptures at vigeland park are not conventionally pretty. and carved out of a single stone, perhaps an ode to here, the women have thick ankles and stout waists. the men the noble, existential struggle of all humankind. there are more are stocky, usually bald. the children are not always lovely little sculptures set on blocks of stone, flanking the huge monolith. angels. the unornamented starkness, the uninhibited stance, the a couple cradle their baby with tenderness, an old woman with lack of self-consciousness in their actions makes them different. shrunken breasts wants to get up and go somewhere, a small they seem so comfortable. But my discomfort with unclothed cluster of chubby babies play with each other. i put a hand on the bodies arises unbidden, almost instinctively. there is nothing shoulder of a baby and feel the cool speckled stone. erotic or sensual about the sculptures, yet i want to shield my My family and i are at the vigeland Sculpture park in oslo, teenage daughter from the sight of the naked bodies, especially norway. it serves as a backdrop for the work of the norwegian those of the men, and of women with exposed breasts. i want to sculptor, Gustav vigeland. More than 200 statues of human gaze at the sculptures and also draw my eyes away from them. beings of all ages, engaged in all kinds of daily activities adorn i become more aware of my own body and what i feel about the park. all the statues are naked. Gustav vigeland created it. our relationship is complicated, veering between grudging these over 20 years from 1924 to 1943 and then donated them to resignation, violent dislike, and occasional tenderness. the city of oslo. this is the largest park of its kind in the world. perhaps there is hidden symbolism, layered meaning in the there are no restrictions on touching the statues or climbing on stylistic arrangements that can be inferred by other artists, but them unlike in a museum. to me there is a simplicity in these sculptures. there is freedom i have seen sculptures before: the writhing, erotic figures here to view the body as it is, celebrating its natural state at the Khajuraho temples in Madhya pradesh, the proud without the artificial restrictions imposed by society. it gives me statues of heroes and horses that adorn the roundabouts of our a chance to gaze upon another naked human being, even if in cities, the cool marble figures scattered across italy, including stone, without judgement, to endow the form with dignity. this the magnificent David, with his fine lines and classic trip is perhaps one step towards accepting my own body and renaissance curves. there is always something otherworldly allowing it a measure of compassion, perhaps even love. about them, the bodies and poses bearing little resemblance to the unwieldy flesh that the average person carries around. Vigeland Sculpture Park indian society tells us that this in Oslo, Norway unwieldy flesh has to be kept covered, hidden. this is what we are taught, across the world, in most countries, especially in asia, in all religions, especially for women. We may protect it from the elements with cloth and fur, but we should never let our skin breathe fully, never let certain parts feel the sun. i have seen my mother frown at my daughter’s shorts. the three of us have had unresolved debates on the appropriate length of her clothes. the woman who wore a short, cleavagerevealing dress to our parties in Delhi was labelled a slut. in Dhaka, where i live now, everyone dresses conservatively. i read an article in a local newspaper that condoned a harasser because the girl he targeted had stepped out of the
Voices |
CREW CU T
Night-Time Revelations
Saumya Ancheri is Assistant Web Editor at National Geographic Traveller India. She loves places by the
sea, and travels to shift her own boundaries.
L
ast august, my family and i spent a day at the periyar tiger reserve. By the time it was sundown, we’d hiked, boated, picnicked, and been sucked on by leeches. But it was only close to midnight, on a three-hour hike through the jungle with forest guards on their night patrol, that i felt like i’d finally slid under the forest’s monsoon skin. at first, my urban self had struggled to sprout jungle roots. i had teetered on narrow, slippery embankments with only my father and two armed guards as a buffer against creatures on the prowl. every few feet, the forest flitted between nutty and floral scents. and then, our swinging flashlights revealed a bloom that only unfurled in the dark, the gently falling rain, a sandalwood tree split by lightning, an owl’s giant sweeping wings, and deer that couldn’t hide their curiosity even as they warned us away with their air-horn bark. Bursting with excitement i coaxed the guards to switch their flashlights off for a few seconds. though we weren’t entirely swallowed by darkness, for a few moments i felt the bigness of the forest move in. When we travel, the day has its brightly lit delights, and the sense of endless hours to attend to all that beckons. But come twilight, the same terrain attains a shape-shifting quality. night-time offers a sense of intimate knowing, when our senses are heightened, almost as if nothing can be taken for granted in the dark. the surreal quality of nighttime discovery came to me again when i was in ahmedabad recently. i had topped my whirlwind visit with a guided night walk through the city’s old pols, or residential clusters. our tour guide took us through a restored haveli, its traditional architecture designed to keep it naturally cool and carefully conceal valuables behind, say, a wall mirror. then he took us through the intermittently lit streets of old ahmedabad. the pols were quiet, the only noise was our chatter, as the steady flashlight lit up chalkboards displaying neighbourhood notices. i felt nostalgic for a past i hadn’t experienced as i saw the decaying mansions, and
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national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
encountered secret passageways once used as escape routes in case of an attack. the night walk allowed me to slow down and become familiar with the turn of each street, alive to its pulse. We moved on to the illuminated chaos of Manek chowk— vegetable market by morning and jewellery hub by afternoon. its streets were taken over by food stalls by night. the chowk sits around the mausoleum of ahmedabad’s founding ruler, ahmed Shah. inside the mausoleum, in a drab room located up a steep flight of stairs, two brothers played the shehnai and beat large drums in a 600-year-old tradition that has outlasted its purpose: announcing the daily opening and closing of the walled city’s gates. Standing there, immersed in the homage to a longgone king, i felt i had slipped into one of the secret pockets of the city’s ancient, thriving heart. in that night-time glimpse of history in loop, ahmedabad revealed itself to me as a city at once old and new, a city remembered and renewed. What is it about the night that loosens the tightly coiled urges of the day? Why do night-time strolls unwind the passage of time or the boundaries of place and memory? When returning to my home city of Mumbai a few years ago after living elsewhere, i found myself walking around darkening streets in a daze. the twilit lanes had a surreal texture that made me feel like i had never really left, that i had returned each night to roam the streets in my dreams. every traveller has a moment, while unpacking a bag or waking up in a strange hotel bed, of not knowing exactly which room or which country one is in. that transient state is similar to the masquerading quality of the night—its anonymity concealing and revealing what it wishes. night travel can feel intoxicating because it brings a sense of probing the hidden, whether you are in a concrete jungle or a moonless forest. Wanderings at night allow the erasing of boundaries, painting me into the picture, even as i feel disoriented with images and sensations that question what i saw by the light of day.
lisa berkshire/illustration work/getty images
under the blanket of darkness, new sights come to light
navigate 44
geotourism Blooms thrive in Jodhpur’s Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park
58
detour The Swiss ski resort of Le Châble, without the skiers
62
taste of travel Boutique foods and a craft beer wave redefine Wellington
With hundreds of skincare and cosmetic stores lining its streets, present-day Myeong-dong is unrecognizable from its ruined state after the Korean War of 1950.
Fountain of Youth Seoul’S Myeong-dong iS the epicentre of the battle againSt ageing By AnjAnA
26
the eye can see, spilling into the narrow alleys. each is stocked with products that promise to help achieve the Korean ideal of beauty: unblemished, radiant, rosy skin. every local cosmetic and skincare brand has a branch here, some have several. they all market themselves aggressively and appear to be doing brisk business. impeccably groomed salespeople ask for a few moments of your time in return for free face pack kits. Some take a polite, formal approach, but occasionally you might feel an arm coil around your elbow—a salesperson gently tugging you into a store. For me it was all very tempting: to step inside store after store and sample a perfumed moisturising cream,
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
or a deliciously fragrant lip balm from an adorable anime container. if you harbour insecurities about any ATLAS
SLOVAKIA IA
BANGLADE ADESH
COLOMBIA
LESOTHO
Seoul, South Korea the 600-year-old namdaemun Market is located about half a kilometre from Myeong-dong and stocks everything from cheap electronics to traditional foods. it is open 24x7.
lucas vallecillos/age fotostock/dinodia
I
t’s a Monday evening in the South Korean capital but unlike other neighbourhoods, Myeong-dong, in the central district of Jung-gu, is bustling. every single day an average of one million people—in a city of ten million—are estimated to shop in this one-square-kilometre area, north of the han river. about half a century ago, Myeongdong attracted crowds for a different reason. Students came here to protest military dictators, their resolve strengthened by the sanctuary provided by the striking red-and-grey brick gothic Myeong-dong cathedral. now, from the doors of the nanta theatre on Myeong-dong’s main street, cosmetic and skincare boutiques stretch as far as
T he N ei ghbou r ho o d
part of your anatomy, there’s a product here for it. there are creams and lotions for dry or oily skin, wrinkles (even those a distant 25 years down the road), lips too thin or too fat and so on. there are BB creams, scrubs for blackheads, heat-radiating patches to tone saggy abdomens and thighs, and serumsoaked gel moustaches to iron out those laughter lines. it is impossible to leave here without a shopping bag. i wasn’t surprised to learn that the beauty product industry here is estimated to generate ten billion dollars annually. ten per cent of this revenue is attributed to sales of men’s products. the most popular brands are nature republic, Missha, aritaum, tony Moly, and amorepacific’s hanyul and etude. it’s not uncommon for a South Korean 15-year-old to have had a nose job, a double-eyelid surgery, a jawsculpting procedure, or even all three. in the “improvement Quarters” of the upscale Gangnam neighbourhood south of the han river, nip-and-tuck clinics are lined up just like the skincare stores are here. their objective is the same, but the focus in Myeong-dong is on products and minimally-invasive treatments. Stores offer both traditional Hanbang remedies that are based on the philosophy that the state of the skin reflects underlying health problems, and new-age applications that boast exotic ingredients like crushed gold and pearls, snail slime, porcine collagen, and even placenta and starfish extracts. When you’re exhausted from all the walking around, pamper yourself with a skin treatment. these cost upwards of KrW22,000/`1,240 at spots like the Foot Shop, hugo Spa, and cnp clinic, but the more elaborate collagenrestoring or detox programmes can run into a few hundred thousand won. at hanyul customers can indulge in folk treatments that range from basic footbaths and facials to intense, fullbody massages that are supposed to restore the body’s natural equilibrium and get the energy flowing. the store also sells products that combine the benefits of potent herbs (a mugwort massage cream costs KRW28,000/`1,580 for 250 ml, a Ginsengbased anti-ageing kit, KRW1,70,000/`9,600).
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Korean beauty products are popular with tourists from japan and China, and attendants at many stores are conversant in their languages (top); Korean shoppers are not particularly loyal to cosmetic brands, so companies innovate with packaging as much as product formula to retain customers (bottom); Brands package cosmetics in eye-catching anime bottles (below).
once this skin food fest (Skinfood is also the name of a store) is over, try some real food. Gomtang is an energising traditional soup that’s made from vegetables, ox head, and brisket. according to a note inscribed on the window of najugomtang, an elegant restaurant in a Myeongdong by-lane, this dish is one that was served to kings in the old days, because it provided both nutrition and collagen. Spoilt for choice, i wondered
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what cleopatra would pick up at Myeong-dong if she was on a budget. the “five-day secret” face-mask kit, whose ingredients, listed in Korean, will undoubtedly remain secret? a box of cheese-based firming cream? or maybe something with a more powerful ring to it, like a product from the “red dragon blood” range? having been through everything this street has to offer, i decide that “inner glow” is what i am going for. So, i’ll stick with real food: chocolate-coated strawberries it is.
seongjoon cho/BlooMBerg/contriButor/getty iMages (shopgirl & tubes), anjana (anime box)
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Not Just Birds
Lohagarh Fort is surrounded by a moat which was filled with water to ward off repeated attacks by the British in the early 1800s.
O
ne morning last november, we made our way from Delhi to Bharatpur in rajasthan for the ninth time. an easy 200-kilometre drive from the capital, Bharatpur is of course famous for its bird sanctuary, the Keoladeo Ghana national park, a UneSco World
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heritage Site. the dense babul and kadam forests—our guide for the day, Babulal, claimed there were 45,000 trees here—ring with the chatter of birds and provide refuge for other animals. on our previous visits, these have always been the primary draw. however, the town also has some interesting historical
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sights scattered within its limits, and we decided to check them out on this visit. the Jat ruler Maharaja Suraj Mal established the city of Bharatpur in a.D. 1733, from the region formerly known as Mewat. it is believed to be named after Bharata, the brother of rama, whose other brother laxmana was worshipped as the town deity. like most rajasthani cities Bharatpur also boasts an impressive citadel, the lohagarh Fort. lohagarh’s name implies its invincibility; though the British attempted to besiege it no less than four times. it never fell. While it does not score high on splendour when compared to rajasthan’s more lavish forts, lohagarh still looks mighty. Despite the fact that there isn’t much left of its famed seven-kilometre-long mud wall defences, which protected the fort from the Mughals and the British, we could still see why it is regarded in folklore as one of the strongest forts built on the subcontinent. We climbed to the top of lohagarh and spent some time inside, wandering through Kishori Mahal, Moti Mahal, and the Kothi Khas. We also marvelled at the beautiful ashtadhatu, or “eightmetal,” gateway, with its large paintings of elephants. the government-run Bharatpur Museum and an art gallery are located within Kamra palace, the section of lohagarh that was originally the durbar hall. they house antique rajput weaponry, miniature art on peepul leaves, mica paintings, and artefacts dating from the first to the 19th century. the sheer range of the weapons showcased here is impressive. Used in medieval battles by Jat rulers, most of them incorporate multiple ways of attack into one instrument, or are smartly camouflaged. it’s a pity they don’t allow photography inside this section. the palace complex of lohagarh also has an impressive iron pillar called the vijay Stambha or victory column, inscribed with the genealogy of the Jat kings. We pay our respects to these ancestors of Suraj Mal and then walk to the lovely Banke Bihari Krishna temple, five minutes away. the architecture
victor suÁrez/alamy/indiapicture
Beyond the attractions of Birding, Bharatpur has a rich history By Kavita Devgan
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graceful carvings (left) adorn parts of Lohagarh Fort; the indian spot-billed duck (right) is found across the country in freshwater lakes and marshes. it is seen in large numbers in Bharatpur during winter.
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teal, ruddy shelduck, mallard, redcrested pochard, and gadwall. and, inevitably, the park was also packed with tourists, like us, taking advantage of the weather and the ease of access of this birdwatchers’ paradise. We visited the forest twice—experience has taught us that the morning and evening excursions are quite different. and we concluded this trip at a small, ancient Shiv temple located at one end of the sanctuary. We sat at a secluded
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section of the waterbody next to the temple for an hour or two, munching on biscuits, letting the calm and serenity of the forest seep in, as we contemplated our next visit. perhaps next time we’ll also visit the Bund Baretha, a dam 38 kilometres west of Bharatpur, which offers excellent views over a massive reservoir. or perhaps we’ll head to the Deeg palace, the summer fortress of the Bharatpur rulers, 32 kilometres away, for another glimpse into the past.
the vitals Getting There Bharatpur is 200 km south of delhi, an easy 3.5-hour drive. there are direct trains connecting the two places as well. the closest airport is at agra, 54 km/1 hr east of Bharatpur. Seasons an oasis in an arid land, Bharatpur experiences extremes in weather. summers (apr-may) are hot and temperatures can soar over 45°c and the minimum doesn’t go below 27°c. oct-mar is ideal for birdwatching as many migratory birds take shelter in the sanctuary during that time. the rainy season (jun-sep) is humid, but worth a short trip to see the lush green forest with fewer tourists. the most popular seasons are oct-nov, during dussehra and diwali, and in Feb-march around holi when the temperatures range from 7-27°c. Stay From budget to super luxurious, Bharatpur has several options.
Hotel Bharatpur Ashok is the only property located inside the forest, just before the main entrance to the park (05644-222722; www.theashokgroup. com; doubles from `3,000). Iora Guest House has simple, clean rooms and scores high on location, outside the main gate (98280 41294; www.ioraguesthouse. com; doubles from `1,200). Need to Know Keoladeo Ghana National Park is open 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. entry for indians is `75, and `500 for foreign nationals. vehicles have to be parked at the main gate. only pedestrians, cycles (rental `75 per day), and cycle rickshaws (rental `100 per hour) are allowed inside. no food from outside is permitted but there are two small canteens inside that sell tea, cold drinks, chips, and biscuits. do not attempt to feed the wildlife. Bharatpur Museum is open 9.45 a.m.-5.15 p.m., tuesday-sunday.
christophe Boisvieux/terra/corBis/imageliBrary (Carving), dhritiman mukherjee (duCks)
of this temple is clearly inspired by the popular Banke Bihari temple of vrindavan in Uttar pradesh, and there are beautifully carved idols of radha and Krishna inside. our visit was filled with the natural bounty of Bharatpur too. as we walked through the Keoladeo sanctuary, we came across a python sunning itself in the middle of the road, oblivious to the people around it. We also spotted a huge monitor lizard peeping out from behind a bush. Besides these reptiles, there are spotted deer, jackal, and nilgai, especially along the side trails deeper in the forest. Walking down the main road of Keoladeo national park, we spotted both red-vented and white-cheeked bulbuls, partridges, kingfishers, sunbirds, and colourful parakeets. time passed quickly as we watched an entire colony of nesting rosy pelicans and flamingos feed their young and add straw to their nests. they flew from one tree to the next and i was astounded by their numbers. We also saw splendid waterfowl, including the barheaded and greylag geese. there are around 375 species of birds that live in or visit the park. We spotted seasonal predatory birds like the imperial, steppe, tawny, and spotted eagles, and laggar falcon, making circles in the sky. these migratory birds usually come to the park in august and stay until February. another highlight of our visit this year was the wide variety of ducks, including pintail, common
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Boo k E xtract
Winged Fire AviAn encounters through the Ages By VALmIK ThApAR
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his is not a typical bird book,” begins Valmik Thapar’s note in Winged Fire: A Celebration of Indian Birds, the final volume in his trilogy about India’s wildlife. And it isn’t. Instead of listing Indian birds and species, the book contains a selection of writings and photographs from various encounters with birds. They take the reader on a journey through the country and through several centuries. Starting with Akbar’s vizier, Abu’l-Fazl’s account of birds being hunted in Kashmir with trained falcons, right up to Ruskin Bond’s description of the noisy barbet, more heard than seen in the hills around his home in Landour. Setting the reader off on the path to exploring birds, Thapar’s introduction describes how he went into India’s jungles looking for the tiger, but birds slipped into his consciousness. In the first section, well-known bird photographer Ramki Sreenivasan writes not just about his favourite birding haunts, but also about the real rewards—the unexpected journeys it has led him to. An excerpt:
a heavy and humid tropical air and a mid-morning silence welcomed us into the indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary and
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national park. as we crossed the forest checkpost at Sethumadai, the base of the anamalais, there was an abrupt change in the
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
Winged Fire: A Celebration of Indian Birds (Aleph Book Company, 2016, `2,995)
landscape from vast coconut plantations to dense jungle. aptly named for its large population of elephants, the anamalais are home to an amazing diversity of plants and animals. a lot of these species are endemic, meaning they are found nowhere else in the world. there are over 250 species of birds here and they were our focus. the magical Karian Shola is a tract of wet evergreen jungle with a trail leading to a dilapidated watchtower overlooking a clearing and a small check dam. this trail is very rewarding for birds, though one should keep a sharp lookout for elephants that frequently wander into the
Rahul Rao
A painted stork walks off with a tiny crocodile from one of Ranthambore’s lakes.
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shola. on several occasions we experienced tense moments with elephants, especially lone tuskers with bad tempers. the trek to the famed watchtower which is one of the finest birding trails in all of the Western Ghats is a couple of kilometres long. interesting endemics are easy to spot here— white cheeked barbets, Malabar trogons, dark-fronted babblers, flame-throated bulbuls, Malabar parakeets, fairy-bluebirds, white-bellied treepies, Malabar grey hornbills, orange minivets, paradise flycatchers and greater racket-tailed drongos. trickier
The malabar trogon of the Western Ghats (top left); The great Indian hornbill (top right) and the Asian fairy-bluebird (bottom) thrive in the Anamalais.
ones like the white-bellied blue flycatcher and black-throated munia require more time. a speciality of Karian Shola is the Sri lanka frogmouth. this is a fascinating nocturnal bird related to nightjars. With plumage like dried leaves, spotting one in the evergreen jungle undergrowth is next to impossible. its superb camouflage and stillness help it merge with the wet, green-brown background of the jungle. our Kadar (an endemic tribe of these ranges) guide, arumugam, with his keen and experienced eye, was quick to show us a pair in the undergrowth. topslip is one of the very few places in the world where you can see another curious bird— the Wayanad laughingthrush. a skulker in thick bamboo, this bird always gives us a good run for our money. Gregarious and noisy,
these birds live in flocks of about twenty and the topslip area is known to have a few resident flocks. We were very lucky to catch a few fleeting glimpses of them but had to wait for another time and place to photograph them. the great pied hornbill, the largest hornbill in india, is a rare bird but widespread in the anamalais. these giant birds stand over a metre tall and are the primary seed dispersers of the gigantic trees on which they feed. these birds are in danger of extinction due to habitat loss and poaching. topslip is a great place to see them and one typically hears them long before spotting them. We were lucky to hear several of them fly above us, with the characteristic ‘helicopter’ sound of their flapping wings. these hornbills fly with heavy
KiRan Poonacha (trogon), Shefiq BaSheeR ahammed (hornbill), BiShan monnaPPa (bluebird)
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wing beats, a few flaps and a long glide. the call is a loud reverberating kok-kok, often made by a pair together, which can be heard up to a kilometre away. the giant trees of Karian Shola have made it a traditional breeding ground for hornbills. it is not uncommon to see two adult hornbills sitting with a juvenile and making guttural sounds whilst hidden in the shola canopy. the male and female can be told apart by their eye colour. Males have red eyes with black skin around the eyes and females have white eyes with red skin around them. While hornbill eyes are fairly small (even though the bird is large), it is fairly easy to pick out (with binoculars) the telling eye colours from a distance. the yellow beak is topped by a casque. the male has a flat casque forked in front and edged with black; the female’s casque is smaller with no black. the white plumage on the
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A flock of Indian skimmers fly over a basking crocodile. These birds, with their distinct orange beaks, can be spotted around the Western Ghats (top); The blood pheasant of the Eastern himalayas (bottom).
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
head, neck, wing coverts and tail base are often stained yellow with oil from the preen gland. as we were wrapping up another productive anamalais trip in the top Slip area, we couldn’t help but remember
one of edward abbey’s popular sayings: ‘the idea of wilderness needs no defense, it only needs defenders.’ it is time that we rise to be the defenders of some the last few wilderness tracts in our country, such as the anamalais.
anSaR and chhotu Khan (skimmers), dhRitiman muKheRjee (pheasant)
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O
n the eastern fringes of the Corbett National Park, overlooking the rock-strewn Kosi riverbed and forested peaks of the Shivalik range, sits the nine-acre Namah. It is perfect for the solitary traveller, and also offers an intimate getaway for couples and families, with little nooks for privacy and a level of service that goes beyond expectations. At the same time, the resort is a good venue to host parties, conferences, and corporate events. There is also ample space for meetings, and large grounds for group activities. Perhaps the most stunning feature at Namah is the nearly 400-metre-long river frontage. A wide lawn leads up to the edge of the property, which is separated from the river by a 30-foothigh retention wall. Even when the river swells in the monsoon, the property sits high above the water. Across the river, the dense foliage of the plains gives way to the rocky outcrops of the Shivaliks. The hazy hilltop of Nainital is visible in the distance. Nature enthusiasts need never move from this wide expanse, watching avian and animal life put on an engrossing show on the dry riverbed below. For different kinds of travellers, I notice a diverse range of experiences at Namah. It’s interesting that this
property can, at the same time, be intimate yet formal, focused on the large scale yet with acute attention to detail. One thing is for certain—there’s an option for every mood.
SETTLE After the long dusty drive from Delhi, the cold towel and icy drink I’m handed on arrival are most welcome. Pale red, floral, and with a slight tang, the welcome drink is a lovely punch made with the locally found rhododendron or burans flower. Rooms are housed in doublestoreyed cottages, with dark wood interiors and sloping roofs, sit-outs on the ground floor and balconies on upper levels. Each morning, I grab the newspaper left outside my door and plonk myself in this little outdoor nook, paper soon lying forgotten as I watch the sunrays make their way through the clouds to light up the hills. Manicured green spaces, including two bonsai clusters, dot the property. The four suites have an unobstructed view of the river valley, and the long balcony is ideal for lounging around with a cuppa. Namah feels like an oasis, lacking no luxury within this otherwise rugged landscape. It’s the little touches that make all the difference, such as night-time chocolates,
accompanied by a handwritten “Good Night” on a freshly fallen leaf. Buffet meals at the restaurant, Pratha, are long and languid affairs. The high-roofed space is enclosed in glass, opening onto a patio that faces the mountains. I make it a point to eat outdoors when the weather allows it, listening to melodious birdsong. At breakfast, I linger over a lavish spread of croissants, sausages, and eggs to order, fresh fruit and juices, as dark clouds rumble ominously and fat raindrops fall onto the grass. The next day, it’s sambar, idli, and poha, while watching graceful kites soar above the river valley. Of the many Indian, Chinese, and Continental options at lunch and dinner, I particularly enjoy the Indian mutton dishes—the dhaba gosht is tender and flavourful while the South Indian-style mutton fry, is spicy and falls off the bone. Salads are fresh and innovative—beetroot and pineapple, carrot and raisin, and always plenty of sautéed mushroom. There’s also a live pasta counter and baskets of garlic bread on demand.
EXPLORE Safari timings are 6-10 a.m. and 2-6 p.m. I wake before daybreak for the morning safari to Bijrani—a popular zone in the Corbett Tiger Reserve—
that the resort has helped arrange. As I step into the jeep, I’m handed a packed picnic breakfast of sandwiches, a croissant and muffin, fruit and juice that I thoroughly appreciate a few hours later. I spot scores of spotted deer or chital, some majestic looking male sambar with glorious antlers, and a tree with more langurs than leaves. Curious about the indigenous fauna, I go on a nature walk later in the day, guided by an accomplished naturalist. We cross the British-era suspension bridge across the Kosi, which is considerably more swollen in these parts, and begin our walk through the Corbett landscape. The trail eventually leads to the Garjiya Devi mandir, situated on a rock in the middle of the river. The uphill path weaves through a thick teak forest, the river on our left, and a high rock-face to our right. Each step on the bed of fallen dry leaves makes a resounding crunch, as birdcalls fill the air. Teak is not indigenous to these parts and was introduced for its use in railway compartments. The forest is rich in natural gifts—putranjiva, that’s used as a medicine for colds; boerhavia diffusa, used to treat cattle sickness; the rohini plant, that yields sindoor; and a large-leafed creeper, known as camel’s foot, or malu in Kumaoni, whose leaves are traditionally used as dinner plates. Massive termite hills line the path and the naturalist explains how bears and monkeys feed on the ants. Further down, mahseer fish surface from the clear river water to feed on the breadcrumbs local boys are raining down on them. Though I don’t spot any, agile mountain goats called goral are often seen bounding up the steep hillside.
UNWIND After the many hours spent out in the forest, enjoy some much-deserved downtime back at the resort. When the weather is cool, grab a good book and lounge on the lawn in the company of squirrels and monkeys. Or witness the drama of the riverbed from the garden swing. Black and white wagtails scuttle for worms within the stones, as redstarts and sunbirds fly within
the shrub. Occasionally, a lone kite swoops in and steals the show. There’s much excitement at the resort: just the previous evening, a wild tusker made his way along this very path. Protected by a high wall and at a safe distance to witness this magnificent beast, the property edge provided a balcony-seat view for this spectacle. On hot afternoons, while away time at the recreation room over a game of pool, table tennis, or carom. Take a dip in pool, or lounge on a sunbed with an icy nimbu pani. Wander through the bonsai clusters—there are over 100 bonsais through the property— and don’t forget to look up into the branches of the taller trees. I saw a deep purple sunbird sucking the nectar of poinsettia flowers and several other colourful species whose names I will have to look up. Indulge in serious pampering at the spa or hop on the treadmill at the gym on the upper level, with a glass frontage overlooking the Sitabani forest and Shivalik hills. It’s one of the most scenic gyms I’ve come across. In the mornings, yoga sessions take place at the poolside, and aerobics is often on offer. Glancing through the à la carte menu, I notice some high tea options. The Boond Spread arrives on a threetiered trolley groaning under the weight of freshly baked muffins, warm cookies, finger sandwiches, pizza squares, fresh fruit tarts, and pastries. On the side, there are paneer pakoras, mixed samosas, more cakes, breadsticks, tea, and a mix of fusion desserts. The most intriguing of these is a watermelon slab, topped with a kala jamun and drizzled in chocolate sauce. Set up on wooden chairs in the lawn, a light breeze blowing, it’s a relaxing way to bring in the evening. Kids can run far and free in this secure environment with ample open space, and on more than one occasion, I saw staff members indulgently throwing a ball around with them. As the sun sets, catch a movie at the amphitheatre, where documentaries are screened on the park, the story of Jim Corbett the man, tales of wildlife and local lore. At dusk, the
place comes alive with all the different sounds of the jungle. The croak of frogs, the chirp of crickets, and a million other insect noises all rise in a crescendo. Grab a patio table at Boond, the in-house bar, for a sundowner. The intimate space has indoor seating for rainy days and al fresco loungers for when the weather’s good. On colder evenings there’s a bonfire and occasionally, live music. Post dinner, I sit on the covered patio, enjoying the things city slickers miss most of all: the crisp forest air, lightening slashing through a sky unobstructed by buildings. As night descends on this tranquil property, I am lulled into a sense of comfort. Here, in the heart of nature, I sleep peacefully like a child.
EXPERIENCE Throughout my stay, the impeccable service and genuine warmth of the staff are apparent. I’m regaled with tales of encounters with the wild, such as a tiger rescue mission from last year. One evening, the bar is decorated entirely with candles, empty save for a lone table in the centre beautifully set up with flowers and wine. A couple is celebrating a birthday, and the wife has asked for something memorable to be arranged for her husband’s special day. The staff has pulled out all stops in this surprise candlelight dinner. A large corporate contingent has been in and out of meetings all day and is looking for a way to liven up their evening. Stalls with bamboo thatch canopies are set out on the lawns and chaat is on offer as a special treat. I gorge on gol gappas while waiting for my hot aloo tikkis. Namah’s sustainable practices are what make this place even more special for me. I notice a sewage treatment facility within the compound for the resort’s water. On asking around, I find out that Namah also works with the NGO Waste Warriors to responsibly dispose and compost their waste. At a large property, it is aspects like social responsibility, attention to detail, and a friendly staff that go a long way. And Namah checks all the boxes. Text by Malavika Bhattacharya Photographs by Anshika Varma
The Details Rooms are available in three categories— Premium, Superior, and Suites. All categories are spacious, with dark wood floors and interiors, floor to ceiling glass windows for great views and natural light, and balconies. (www.namah.in; doubles start at `12,000, including breakfast.) How to reach Around five hours by road from Delhi, Namah lies along the Kosi belt on Dhikuli Road at Corbett.
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From the terrace of Mehrangarh Fort, rao Jodha desert rock Park stretches as far as the eye can see. The park clothes the rocky landscape in different shades of green and is a marvel of eco restoration and conservation.
Desert Rocks blooms in the sand and other charms of Jodhpur’s rao Jodha desert rock park By Prerna Singh Bindra | photographs By PradiP KriShen
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s a conservationist, i have witnessed many attempts at afforestation. Most efforts only yield spindly trees that stand like gaunt soldiers in a forlorn army. So when i saw over 300 species of plants, including an astounding 70 grass varietals, thriving at the edge of the thar Desert, i was surprised. in a place with barely 300 mm of annual rain and a relentless sun beating down on hard rhyolite or volcanic rock, growing something is like squeezing life from stone. it was dawn on a winter morning in november, and i was at Singhoria Bari, a historic 16th-century gateway to Jodhpur city, that now leads to rao Jodha Desert rock park. this young forest of trees, shrubs, grasses, and herbs that typify the region’s unique floral heritage, is a miracle unfolding in the shadow of Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort. Spread over 70 hectares in the area surrounding the fort, the park has
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transformed a wasteland in an aweinspiring way. it shows visitors what this area must have looked like five centuries ago, when rao Jodha arrived and founded the city of Jodhpur. in the 1930s, in a bid to provide his subjects with firewood, the then maharaja dispersed seeds of a hardy Mexican shrub—the mesquite or Prosopis juliflora. For all his noble intent, the action led to an ecological nightmare. the invasive mesquite spread like crazy, earning it the local name of baavlia, “the mad one.” it was a bully, its roots giving out toxic alkaloids that edged out all other vegetation. in 2006, the Mehrangarh Museum trust called in one-time filmmaker and india’s “tree-man,” pradip Krishen, to rejuvenate the degraded landscape, and he was the one taking me around the park. Krishen led me past gates fashioned after a delicate desert plant called tumba, and down the stony
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staircase to one of the walking trails. the “Gully Walk” winds through an ancient aqueduct where rainwater once flowed into ranisar lake below. When he began this project, Krishen’s first and monumental task was to get rid of the baavlia. Uprooting or hacking it didn’t work as it grew back with a vengeance; neither did packing its stumps with cow dung. the solution came from the local stonemasons called khandwalias, whose forefathers had carved out the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort. they used their unique skills to the vitals rao Jodha Desert rock park is at the foot of Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, rajasthan. the park is open 7 a.m.7 p.m. apr-sept, and 8 a.m.-6 p.m. oct-Mar (www.raojodhapark.com; entry `30; guide `100). to explore, bring good walking shoes, sunblock, hat, drinking water, binoculars, and a bird book.
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Cactus-like thhor are succulents with scarlet flowers that stand out against the stark desert backdrop (top left); Meetha jal or peeloo (right) is an evergreen tree which yields reddish-brown, tart fruit that can be eaten raw, cooked, or made into squashes and chutneys; Singhoria Bari is one of six medieval gateways into the city of Jodhpur. The bari, with an unusual rock garden, now serves as the visitors centre for the park (bottom left).
root out the mesquite from the hard rock. this made space for other plants to grow—goondi, which has bright orange berries, the kharo jaal with its dropping canopy, the rotabel, whose lacy white flowers blossom at dusk and perfume the air to invite pollinating night moths. i took to the santari, with its lobed leaves that are reminiscent of a tiger’s pugmark. Krishen shared titbits as we walked. From him i learnt that the rubber bel that covers the walls of the gully is an import from Madagascar, brought into india around World War i, to make rubber for airplane tyres. Further into the park, we crossed a little stream and walking into the dense canopy, we came across a wondrous tree known as peeloo. it has a thick canopy and bunches of tiny, translucent, grapelike white fruit. We saw evidence of wildlife: a moist patch that had been churned up by wild
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boars reaching for roots and tubers, and a few quills littered the earth, indicating the presence of porcupines. Denzil, the park’s remarkable young naturalist, pointed out an osprey, a harrier, and black kites circling the sky. the harsh, noisy calls we heard were traced to a couple of peregrine falcons. he also pointed out a pair of vultures roosting in the precipice of a craggy rock. in the matter of an hour we had ticked off five of the park’s 32 raptors. the return of native plants has ensured that the landscape is alive with butterflies, geckos, frogs, porcupine, hedgehog, hare, etc. Migratory waterfowl winter at Devi Kund lake at the foot of Jaswant thada, a white marble cenotaph that is a fiveminute walk from Singhoria Bari. as we walked through sections of the park with volcanic rock, the character of the plants subtly shifted. i saw the rare succulent, googal, which is used in
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
traditional medicine to cure ailments from obesity to high cholesterol. cactuslike thhor dot the landscape, its shady thicket sheltering other thorny scrub and myriad spiders. these succulents trap water in their tissues to survive the harsh, dry summers. other plants survive by appearing dry and shrivelled in summers as they concentrate their life forces below the ground, branching their roots deep into the hairline fissures of the rock. they burst forth in the monsoon, painting the landscape a riot of colours. Yet other plants are ephemerals that live briefly in the season of plenty. they surface with the first showers, heavy with flower and fruit, vanishing as the soil dries, leaving behind seeds that will blossom in the next monsoon. i know i will be there to watch the spring of the ephemerals, but i wish not for a brief fling; rather i want to come back, again and again.
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History’s Mysteries Mehrauli archaeological Park is a wonderful hodgePodge of 1,000 years of delhi’s history By Diya Kohli to 1526, and are invaluable in piecing together the history of that period. i feel connected to this archaeological park by virtue of simple things. the house where i lived is a little over three kilometres away and the old walls of Mehrauli extend right up to the boundary of my sleepy housing colony. as a newcomer to the city, its presence gave me a sense of history and belonging, serving as a reminder that Delhi has been settled by migrants for centuries. it was a late autumn morning when i first visited this park as part of a walking tour and it immediately held me in thrall. Unevenly maintained, it is a space where dogs poop over medieval ruins, kids play hopscotch on centuries-old courtyards, squatters warm themselves over campfires, and religious groups lay claim to ancient places of worship. here, history is like a well-worn shoe. ShAdow of the PASt
My guide, an enthusiastic student of history, spurred my imagination through her vibrant retelling of the founding of the Delhi Sultanate. i’ve always been fascinated by this period of history with its rags-to-riches stories of slaves who climbed the ranks to found the Mamluk dynasty that ruled much of the subcontinent. Mehrauli is the best place to relive the manifold legends of
The tomb and mosque of Jamali-Kamali is one of the best examples of indo-islamic architecture in the Meharuli archaeological Park. it incorporates a multitude of styles including islamic inscriptions, Rajasthani jharokhas (balconies) as well as a Star of David.
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nondescript gate opposite Delhi’s Qutub Minar metro station opens into Mehrauli archaelogical park, a magnificent resource of medieval india. First populated in the eighth century, Mehrauli was one of the original cities that became the city of Delhi. the 100-
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odd structures in this park, spread over nearly 200 acres, span many centuries and iterations of the city. they reflect a vast timeline, populated by motley characters including kings, saints, lovers, and eccentrics. Many of them date to the reign of the Delhi Sultanate kings, who ruled over large areas of india from 1206
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Mehrauli, delhi the Unesco World heritage site of Qutub minar next to the park looms tall over the entire mehrauli area. this victory tower from the Delhi sultanate era is among the tallest in india.
poonamparihar.com/moment open/getty images
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the Delhi Sultanate from the first sultan, Qutubuddin aibak, to ibrahim lodi, the last. the first monument that i saw on my walking tour was the 13th-century tomb of Ghiyas ud din Balban, one of the dynasty’s most powerful rulers. the impressive arches on this structure set new standards for the indo-islamic architectural style. the tomb itself was open to sky and enclosed within walls, now in ruins. neighbouring it, through an elaborate arched gateway, is the tomb of Balban’s son, Khan Shahid. Between the two tombs lay the remains of a 16-17th century human settlement. Sunbeams filtered through gaps between the old stone. even today, toys and earthen pottery continue to be discovered here. i climbed two steps of a ruined staircase leading nowhere and wondered about this close proximity between the tombs and homes that are nearly as old. errant creepers popped up in ruined niches that once housed a
lady’s dresser or a cook’s shelf of spices, nature is reclaiming everything and threatens to colonize the old walls, and turn the ruins into something more alive. like ghostly hands reaching out, tree branches cast long shadows on tombs. it is perhaps this proximity between the living and the dead that has given rise to modern rumours of this complex being haunted. the most common tale is about the smell of sandalwood agarbattis that permeates Balban’s tomb occasionally, though none are lit there. however, all that assailed my nose during my visit was a strong whiff of cow dung. Love StorieS And djinnS
From Balban’s tomb, we walked west on a trail that winds through the park for about 200 metres, to reach the most beautiful and well-maintained of the park’s monuments, the tomb and
mosque of Jamali-Kamali. Built by the followers of the 16th-century Sufi mystic and poet Jamali, this mausoleum is believed to resemble the inside of a jewellery box. admiring its domed structure and lovely blue and red stucco work, i was reminded of the little mother-of-pearl inlay boxes that i loved collecting as a child. a silence descended among our chatty group as we entered the tomb. Ghost hunters list the tomb of Jamali-Kamali among Delhi’s most haunted places. visitors claim to sense djinns with malevolent intentions. Some report having perpetual nightmares after entering this place, while others claim to have been slapped by invisible spirits. For hyperactive imaginations like mine, these tall tales add another dimension to the visit. More than the architecture, i was interested in the two tombs in the monument, especially the unmarked
During the 19th century, Englishman Thomas Metcalfe favoured Dilkusha with its gardens and water features for romantic retreats (top left); Balban’s tomb is remarkably well preserved despite being open to the skies (right); The enclosed Jamali-Kamali tomb usually has a guard outside, no doubt to dissuade ghost hunters who are drawn to the site’s rumoured hauntings (bottom left).
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national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
DBimages/alamy/inDiapictUre (Dilkusha), ashoo sharma/inDiapictUre/DinoDia (BalBan’s tomB & Jamali-kamali tomB)
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Rajon ki Baoli, constructed during Sikandar lodhi’s reign, was meant for the use of rajmistries or masons who lived and worked in this area.
An engLiShMAn’S foLLy And weLLS of wonder
in front of the tomb of the Sufi saint is a manicured lawn with structures that rather oddly blend indo-islamic and victorian architecture. the architect of this puzzling space was Sir thomas Metcalfe, baronet and agent of the governor general of india at the court of Bahadur Shah Zafar between 1842 and 1844. a bonafide eccentric, he turned the tomb of the Mughal general Quli Khan into a pleasure retreat. according to our guide, Metcalfe was known for his follies, both real and architectural. here, he built several extravagant and
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ornamental pavilions to adorn the extensive gardens. the house itself was called Dilkusha, meaning that which pleases the heart. With its luxurious sprawling lawns and rest houses, and spectacular views of the Qutub Minar, Mehrauli was quite the retreat from old Delhi’s chaos. returning to Jamali-Kamali’s tomb, we walked west for six minutes to two stepwells, Gandhak ki Baoli and rajon ki Baoli. though constructed 300 years apart, they are similar in size and scope. these stepwells were designed as places for people to bathe and congregate at, and gain respite from the hot summer sun. the source of the 13th-century Gandhak ki Baoli, among the largest of Delhi’s stepwells, was a sulphurous spring (gandhak means sulphur). the 16th-century rajon ki Baoli is a grander edifice with arched halls that bear inscriptions from the Koran. climbing down its steps i admired its intricate masonry while my group walked on to the next monument. My musing was interrupted by shrieks of “oUttt” from children playing gully cricket just outside. i found myself not really
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wanting to catch up with my group any more, as i was exactly where i wanted to be—at the perfect intersection between the past and present. Mehrauli Walks intACh walks intach organizes expert-led weekend walks to mehrauli archaeological park (www. intachdelhichapter.org; book by filling form on website; `100 per head). india City walks the two-hour-long inception of Delhi walk covers the park as well as the surrounding mehrauli village area (www.indiacitywalks.com; `1,000 per head). delhi heritage walks with Sohail hashmi Writer, academic, and historian sohail hashmi is a fount of knowledge on the old cities of Delhi (www.facebook.com/ DiscoveringDelhiWithSohailHashmi; `500 per head for groups of up to 10 people. Costs for customized tours are higher). delhi heritage walks organizes a weekend walk at least once a month to mehrauli archaeological park (www.delhiheritagewalks.com; 2 hr; `500 per head).
jeremy graham/alamy/inDiapictUre
tomb of “Kamali.” there has been much speculation about the identity of this unknown figure. the tomb has been said to belong to Jamali’s wife, close friend, disciple, or even his male lover. of these, the tale of a Mughalera forbidden love story between two men has captured the imagination of many. Whatever the truth, the idea of a “forever after” love in Mehrauli’s hodgepodge history and politics found a happy believer in me.
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LocaL F L avou r
Sweetening the Deal The fishtail palm’s inflorescence is tapped for its sugary sap which makes a sticky treacle as well as solid jaggery; a jar of fresh kithul treacle (bottom).
S
everal years ago, on my first-ever visit to Sri lanka, i remember enjoying one particularly memorable meal at Beach Wadiya, a glorified seaside shack in colombo. an apt introduction to the unhurried pace of life in the island i would eventually call home, the meal stretched over several hours and multiple courses of freshly prepared seafood. But the fondest memory i have of that day is of the final course: a generous scoop of chilled yogurt, sweetened with a drizzle of what
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i thought was honey. it reminded me of my childhood fixation with curd sweetened with sugar. it wasn’t until years later that i found out that the simple dessert was in fact a national obsession, and that the syrup was not honey at all. it was kithul treacle, one of Sri lanka’s best-loved secrets. Derived from the sap of the fishtail palm (locally known as kithul) that grows widely all over the indian subcontinent, kithul treacle is a smoky, amber-coloured sweetener that could be
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considered Sri lanka’s answer to maple syrup. it tastes flowery, like single flora honey, yet not as cloying, and with an undertone of warm spice like that of mulled wine. the secret of its unique flavour rests in the fact that it is produced from the sap collected from its flowers. like other palm products from the subcontinent, the supply of kithul treacle hinges on the dexterity of skilled tappers, who climb trees that can grow over 20 feet high. armed with traditional wisdom about when the trees bloom (only once in their life) and form sap, tappers make a cut at the base of the stalk bearing clusters of flowers. a pot is tied to the tree to collect the precious sap, which is then thickened and purified over a wood fire before being bottled. like the Bengali winter favourite nolen gur, a toffee-like liquid jaggery extracted from the wild date palm, Sri lankan kithul is also a muchloved local delicacy. a complex and flavourful substitute for sugar, kithul is a quintessential part of Sri lankan sweets such as pani walalu, a squiggly, jalebilike sweet made of urad dal and rice which is dunked in treacle, and konda kevum, a spongy, deep-fried cake like the South indian appe or paniyaram, flavoured with treacle instead of sugar. Kithul is now a staple in my pantry, i drizzle the treacle generously over pancakes or sliced strawberries for dessert. and when visiting friends ask me what to take back home, i urge them to tuck a bottle of kithul into their suitcase—in my book, it is a souvenir of Sri lanka like no other. the vitals Kithul treacle is available year-round at most major supermarkets. However, commercial brands are often diluted and taste sugary. Good-quality treacle is expensive, but worth the premium. outlets of laksala, the government handicrafts emporium, and the Good market store in colombo are reliable places to find good quality treacle. at laksala, the premium variety sells at lKr2,400/`1,140 for 300 gm.
flpa/indiapicture (tree), benjamin balfour/alamy/indiapicture (treacle)
Tapping inTo a sweeT sri Lankan secreT by Vidya Balachander
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AROU N D THE WO R L D
Caffeine Kick From Addis AbAbA to stockholm, six wAys to drink A cup oF coFFee BY Meredith Bethune a traditional coffee ceremony only in private homes. It involves roasting the fresh beans over coals and brewing the grounds three times while burning incense. But modern Addis Ababa residents drink black coffee or even a macchiato at family-owned Tomoca in the bustling Piazza neighbourhood.
HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM The
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN Sweden is one of
French introduced coffee to Vietnam in 1857, so this creamy drink is a vestige of its colonial past. Each cup is brewed with a single-serving metal filter (called a phin) resting on a cup that cradles spoonfuls of sweetened condensed milk. The mixture is stirred and poured over ice. Try it on the patio at Trung Nguyen coffee, one of the country’s largest chains, overlooking busy Pham Ngu Lao Street.
the largest coffee consumers worldwide, possibly due to the tradition of fika. The daily coffee break paired with a snack can take place at home, at work, or at a café like Vete-Katten in Stockholm. Its cinnamon buns or award-winning semlor (buns filled with almond paste and whipped cream) pair perfectly with a warm mug of drip brew.
ADDIS ABABA, ETHIOPIA In coffee’s
country of origin, visitors can experience
MACAU, CHINA Black tea, a remnant of English rule in Hong Kong, is filtered through a cloth and combined with
A frothy ethiopianstyle macchiato in Addis Ababa.
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NATIoNAL GEoGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | APRIL 2016
sweetened condensed milk and coffee to make yuanyang. Across the Pearl River Delta in Macau, World Record Coffee has served it for 45 years with a traditional accompaniment—charcoaltoasted bread drizzled with more of the syrupy milk. CHENNAI, INDIA Dating back to the 16th century, kaapi, or degree coffee has been the drink of choice in most of south India. Strong, sweet, and ever so light, Indian filter coffee is as much about preparation as it is about flavour. A strong decoction is brewed in a metal filter and then mixed with boiling milk. Then, it is poured from a height and cooled, and frothed with the individual flourish of the maker. The drink is served in a stainless steel or copper glass placed inside a davara (metal bowl). Try the version at any of the Adyar Ananda Bhavan outlets in Chennai.
TIM E WHITE/GETTY IMAGES
ROME, ITALY Espresso gained popularity after manufacturer La Pavoni perfected the machine in 1905. Forcing scalding water through fine grounds produces a concentrated brew with a layer of crema on the surface. At Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè near the Pantheon, Romans have sipped espresso since 1938.
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Off-Season Spell A SwiSS Skiing hotSpot, without the SkierS By Munni TRiVedi
I
don’t like cold weather at all. and unlike many of our peers, my husband and i never caught the ski bug. our oldest friends, however, are avid skiers who split their time between england and Switzerland. Four years ago, they bought an apartment near the popular ski resort of verbier, in the southwestern canton of valais, close to Geneva. on a recent spring vacation from Mumbai, meeting family and friends in
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the U.K., we decided to take a detour and visit their small, well-appointed bolthole in le châble, Switzerland. this off-season visit was perfect for me to revel in the magnificence of alpine views and breathe clean air without having to endure freezing temperatures. on the train from Geneva to le châble via Martigny, we made sure we had seats on the right so we could see lake Geneva on the way. the route is stunning, the train hugs the shores
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
the vitals le châble is about 154 km/2 hr east of geneva, which is the closest international airport. every 30-40 min, there are trains from geneva airport to martigny. From martigny, hourly trains run along a scenic route to le châble (entire journey from CHF28/`1,900). a 9-min gondola ride takes visitors up to verbier (round trip CHF15/`1,020).
heath korvola/Photodisc/getty images
Trekkers navigate the Haute Route (high route), a 197-kilometre corridor connecting Chamonix in France to Zermatt in Switzerland, which passes through Verbier in southwestern Switzerland.
of the lake and the mountains get progressively bigger. as we entered the alps, and i saw the breathtaking view of Mont Blanc at sunset, i felt the stresses of city life ebb away. a quick train change at Martigny, and a short ride to le châble later, we were welcomed by two familiar, wide smiles. a short walk uphill and soon we’d settled in for a fondue supper and a much needed catch-up. When i woke up the next morning the sun was streaming in through open windows, the air was cool and clean, and all i could hear was the gentle clanging of cowbells. Used to the crowds of Mumbai, i found the absence of human life a little eerie. out-of-season le châble has but a handful of resident expats and a small, friendly community of locals whose historical connection to the place goes back generations. over a glass of mid-morning Fendant, the local white wine, in the village square, we heard stories of bake-offs in the communal village oven and the annual February Mardi Gras. late morning, armed with more Fendant, baguettes, and cheese, we walked 1.5 kilometres to the village of Fionnay. a stroll through the quiet village led us to a path up a hill. We passed stables that would have fit in any nativity scene. pretty cows fluttered their eyelashes as they sauntered over to take a peek at us. May’s meadows were bedecked with purple alpine snowbells and orchids; and pink, white, and yellow water avens, primroses, and cowslips. the breeze gently filled the valley with their scents. i halfexpected heidi to step out from behind
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a barn. the stillness and our picturepostcard surroundings made me miss my children, who were spending time with the grandparents. they would have relished the space, run all over the hills, dizzy with the novelty of breathing untainted air. My daughter would have made daisy chains. lunch was a picnic on a rock, chatting about the past—of holidays in Gascony and the lake District. as the wine flowed, so did the memories, stories, and laughter. We felt a sense of reconnecting with each other, with ourselves, and with nature. the next day we ventured further uphill to verbier. it was a 1,500-metre climb through woods and flower-laden fields that led us to the country’s main resort, the holiday home of celebrity skiers. the ultra-smart set, for whom money is no object, take up a lot of space here, and prince andrew and richard Branson both have stunning chalets. in season, anyone who’s anyone dances the night away at Farm club, a cool celebrity-filled joint, and an expensive
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night out. While i enjoyed visiting verbier, the simpler quiet pleasures of le châble appealed to me more. Whether it was a simple bread-andcheese picnic or a fine-dining feast, the
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
quality and choice of food we enjoyed was outstanding. le namasté, a charming restaurant in a 19th-century Swiss chalet, set on a slope in the Savoleyres ski area, was delightful and indian in name only. there, we sampled homestyle valais cuisine: savoury tarts and baked cheese. at Brasserie 1 in the centre of le châble, the menu descriptions had my mouth watering in anticipation, and the food, when it arrived, was Michelin standard. our meal was an absolute riot of flavours and included a beautifully presented fresh crab and apple salad and a rib-eye tartare. the alpine tranquillity and offseason pace of le châble allowed me to get away from both my hectic life in Mumbai and the busy london vacation i was on, to simply sit back and decompress. our bellies were aching from the laughter, and full from the superb food and wine. and when we finally left, it was with our heads and hearts refreshed, ready to return to regular life.
gaetan Bally/corBis wire/corBis/imageliBrary (restaurant), martin harris/Photodisc/getty images (train)
At 8,000 feet, the Cabane du Mont Fort restaurant (top) provides an excellent lunch spot near Verbier; The train (bottom) from Geneva to Le Châble passes through a picturesque route along Lake Geneva.
r e n
W
in
dreams do come true
CONTEST
Dharmika TanDon
froM MUMBAI
wON a Trip fOr TwO TO SwiTzErlaNd THE PRIZE 2 return tickets to Zurich from Delhi/Mumbai, courtesy Swiss International Airlines 3 nights stay in a hotel on twin sharing basis, including breakfast, courtesy Switzerland Tourism 2 eight-day first class Swiss Travel Passes, courtesy Swiss Travel System* *Detailed terms and conditions available at: www.natgeotraveller.in/magazine/month/swiss-special/swiss-contest
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the “Beer is love” mural at hipster Golding’s Freedive bar, is an iconic piece of art for those familiar with the Wellington craft beer scene.
Hops, Beans, and Treats Boutique foods, a craft Beer wave, and a hipster coffee culture redefine new Zealand’s capital city By Malavika Bhattacharya
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from Martinborough, created especially for a chef ’s dessert,” he says. With the texture of silk and the briny flavour of olives, this ball of sunshine is the perfect introduction to Wellington’s culinary scene (gelissimo.co.nz; Taranaki Wharf; starting from NZD4.5/`204). through this excursion with Zest Food tours, i’m privy to unique flavours that i might have otherwise missed. When i ask where i can actually order this wonderful creation, i’m directed to the italian restaurant Scopa Caffé Cucina on cuba Street (scopa.co.nz). For any food lover who visits Wellington, Cuba Street is a point of convergence. a five-minute walk from the waterfront, this bohemian artery in the city’s compact centre, though only two kilometres long, is a hub of vintage stores, trendy cafés, bookshops, and buskers. Fringed leather, outlandish cowboy boots, and vintage clothing adorn
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
shop windows at stores like Hunters & Collectors and Ziggurat. Slow Boat Records, with its massive collection of new and second-hand records, is a vinyl geek’s dream. this area is also packed with independent food businesses, artisanal coffee makers, craft beer bars, and trendy nooks and crannies. the vitals Zest Food Tours A walking food tour covers both wellington establishments and little-known businesses (www. zestfoodtours.co.nz; a 3.5 hour Capital Tastes food tour costs NZD179/`8,112 per person and needs a minimum of 2 people). Craft Beer College sign up for a tasting tour with a local beer aficionado to discover wellington’s craft beer scene (www.craftbeercollege.co.nz; set tastings start at NZD44/`1,994).
photo courtesy: wellington tourism
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ellington’s curved waterfront runs along cook Strait, which separates new Zealand’s north and South islands. on a chilly summer morning in December, the blue waters are ruffled into a million folds. Windy Wellington lives up to its moniker. i determinedly stick my face into the breeze, defying the Medusa hairdo i’m sporting, and let my guide from Zest Food tours lead me towards a morning sugar fix. We begin our food tour at Wellington’s fabulous waterfront. at Gelissimo, one look at the pastel-coloured gelato flavours on display and i’m ready for a tasting. i try the green mint and chocolate chip gelato and a blood-red raspberry and elderflower sorbet—both bursting with flavour. owner Graham Joe then hands me a scoop of pale yellow gelato from a tub that isn’t on display. “it’s an olive oil gelato made with olives
GuTSy GouRmeTS
eva Street, just off cuba Street, is a graffiti-splattered lane housing some of Wellington’s coolest institutions. i step into Wellington Chocolate Factory and am transported into the roald Dahl classic. the air is heavy with the scent of roasting cacao. Gunnysacks with organic beans from peru, the Dominican republic, and Samoa are stacked on the floor. Behind glass walls, molten chocolate bubbles and churns its way through elaborate machines. i taste a raw cacao bean and bits of chocolate as a staffer takes me through the different varieties. the peruvian bar is made with high-quality criollo beans from trees in 2,000-year old peruvian forests, and has undertones of raisin and apricot. the Dominican republic bar is of 70 per cent single-origin cocoa, bitter with a citrus undertone. chocolate appreciation, i realise, is as serious an art as wine tasting (www.wcf.co.nz; 5 Eva Street; a small bar of chocolate starts at NZD4.9/`220). across the street, a white cloth sign
saying “peanut Butter” flutters above a street-level window. Fix & Fogg is an independent peanut butter factory named after Detective Fix and phileas Fogg from Jules verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days. i peep through the window and see a handful of people in chefs’ aprons grinding, mixing, and bottling. one of them pokes his head out and offers me generous scoops to taste from the four jars on display: smooth, crunchy, dark chocolate, and smoky chilli. this little outfit offers tastings and sells jars right out of their shop window (www.fixandfogg.co.nz; 5 Eva Street; 375g jars from NZD8/`362). at the other end of the lane, somewhat confusingly also known as leeds Street, the Red Rabbit Coffee Co. brews coffee from its speciality roasted beans (redrabbitcoffee.co.nz; Unit 6G, 14 Leeds Street; coffee from NZD4/`179). pair your cuppa with iconic salted caramel cookies from the Leeds Street Bakery next door (leedstbakery.co.nz; cookies NZD4.50/`200). THe ReaL aLe
over a glass of Bobby leach’s Mandarin comeuppance (a fruity blonde ale), i discuss Wellington’s vibrant craft beer scene with phil cook of Craft Beer College, an outfit offering beer tastings, with which i’m taking a tour. “things have really kicked off in the last five years or so,” he says. Wellington’s image as a
political centre has received a makeover in recent times, as the spate of boutique craft breweries went from five to 14 and over 20 dedicated beer bars mushroomed (www.craftbeercollege.co.nz). Behind a nondescript door adjacent to the bakery is Golding’s Free Dive—a quirky beer bar where hipsters flock for ever-changing beers on tap and an utterly mad vibe. Skis are suspended from the roof, upturned buckets double up as lampshades, and the walls are covered in murals (goldingsfreedive. co.nz; 14 Leeds Street; a mug of Pilsner costs NZD10/`453). Tuatara Brewery was among the pioneers on the scene, established in 2000, and named for the native reptile found in these parts. the tuatara iti beer i’d tried the previous night came in a bottle with spikes down the neck—a homage to its namesake and a creative marketing tactic (www.tuatarabrewing. co.nz; 7 Sheffield Street, Paraparaumu; an hour-long tasting costs NZD35/`1,586 per person and needs a minimum booking of 8 people). phil takes me to Garage Project, another front runner in the brewing space. located in an old petrol station in the grungy aro valley area, this microbrewery burst onto the scene in 2011 with innovative flavours and a new beer every week for six months. Brewing is in full swing: shiny vats are bubbling
april 2016 | national GeoGraphic traveller inDia
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louise HAtton (cafÈ), mAlAvikA BHAttAcHAryA (coffee & food)
Fix and Fogg’s peanut butter factory and store (left) is inspired by the journeys of Phileas Fogg, a wealthy English philanthropist, and Scotland yard detective Mr. Fix from Around the World in Eighty Days; the traditional Greek biscuit, koulourakia (right), available at the Mojo roasters, is made with spices and sesame seeds; a tasting plate of local best buys (below) assembled by Zest food tours at the Moore Wilson grocery store.
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and spewing yeast. at the attached cellar door—a term i’ve previously only associated with wineries—there are a handful of beers on tap to taste and a wall lined with glass flagons to purchase. locals stream in and out, refilling their containers with watermelon lager and venusian pale ale. i taste a chilli chocolate lager called Day of the Dead, a dark, full-bodied beer with a lingering spicy flavour (garageproject.co.nz; 68 Aro Street; starts at NZD8.5/`385 for a 330ml can). across the street at their relatively new bar, 91 aro Street, i’m handed a delicate goblet of what looks like a pale rosé. the tap it’s poured from is labelled rosé de la vallée, but this is a beer bar, so, what am i drinking? reading my confusion, phil explains that this pilsner infused with pinot grapes from nearby Martinborough really blurs the lines between wine and beer. Winding our way around the neighbourhood, we come upon the mustardcoloured facade of the Little Beer Quarter, a charming beer bar with an old-world english feel and 14 rotating beers on tap. i try a pilsner by panhead, another one of Wellington’s breweries (littlebeerquarter.co.nz; 6 Edward Street; starts at NZD8/`362 for a mug of
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ale). outside, a sign bears the logo of the Yeastie Boys, an independent craft brewing outfit, named after the american hip-hop band Beastie Boys. For beer nerds like me, this tour is made better by the marvellous wordplay, history, and the stories of the places we visit. Garage project’s aro noir, for instance, gets its name because it is brewed on the “dark side” of the suburb of aro valley, which doesn’t receive sunlight; their trip hop incorporates three different kinds of hops, and the brewer
national GeoGraphic traveller inDia | april 2016
is a fan of an electronic music style with the same name. a few streets away at airy brewpub Fork & Brewer, Kelly ryan, the in-house brewer, offers me a glass of cherry coloured liquid. “there was a raspberry explosion yesterday,” he says, showing me images on his phone of bright red splatters along the walls and floor of his brewing space. i taste the raspberry blend he’s experimenting with; it definitely has promise. then i taste a sour pilsner called tainted love, infused with passion
mAlAvikA BHAttAcHAryA (brewery), douglAs peeBles/Age fotostock/dinodiA (visitors)
91 aro Street by the Garage Project brewery has a rotating menu of 20 beers on tap (top); cuba Street with its hip craft beer bars and al fresco cafés is a Mecca for food lovers (bottom).
Bean To BReW
the Kiwi preference for specially crafted beverages extends to the coffee scene as well. With over a dozen roasteries in the city, speciality coffee is the norm. the 13-year-old mojo HQ and Roastery, run by a second-generation Greek family, is something of a Wellington institution. the boutique roastery operates over 20 cafés within the city. their roasting operation, housed in the red-brick Shed 13 along the waterfront, is open to the public. here, i see a batch of beans being roasted while sipping a freshly brewed flat white—a Kiwi staple consisting of steamed milk poured over an espresso shot—accompanied by a buttery koulourakia or Greek wine biscuit (www. mojocoffee.co.nz; Shed 13, Kumutoto Plaza, Wellington Waterfront). Flight coffee is another among Wellington’s speciality coffee roasters, using beans from Kenya, colombia, ethiopia, etc. The Flight Coffee Hangar is their flagship café, housed in a former parking lot with pale wood interiors,
Max Patte’s iconic “Solace of the Wind” sculpture leans into the harbour near Wellington’s te Papa musuem (top); Nestled in the heart of cuba Street, iko iko is a store filled with curiosities, stocking everything from local handicrafts to quirky toys (bottom).
a glass frontage overlooking the street and a high footfall of hip locals. coffee roasting is a complex science and Sarah, the lead barista, shows me a chart that ranks various aspects—flavour, acidity, aroma—on a ten-point scale. ( flightcoffee.co.nz; 171 -177 Willis Street; Coffee Three Ways costs NZD14/`634; espresso NZD4.5/`204.)
i order coffee three Ways—a sampler featuring the same bean brewed in three different styles. it arrives on a wooden board, a trio of little cups containing an espresso, a flat white, and a dark cold drip, all brewed with ethiopian beans. this artisanal presentation is unsurprising of course. in Wellington, brewing is serious business.
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photo courtesy: wellington tourism (waterfront), oliver strew/lonely plAnet imAges/getty imAges (store)
fruit and juniper berry. i think i’ve found my favourite ( forkandbrewer.co.nz; 20A Bond Street; starts at NZD9.5/`430 for a 425ml glass).
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CONTEST
Dharmika TanDon
froM MUMBAI
wON a Trip fOr TwO TO SwiTzErlaNd THE PRIZE 2 return tickets to Zurich from Delhi/Mumbai, courtesy Swiss International Airlines 3 nights stay in a hotel on twin sharing basis, including breakfast, courtesy Switzerland Tourism 2 eight-day first class Swiss Travel Passes, courtesy Swiss Travel System* *Detailed terms and conditions available at: www.natgeotraveller.in/magazine/month/swiss-special/swiss-contest
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nepal DIY guide to trekking to the Everest Base Camp
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indonesia Forging deep connections at a remote village in Papua
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china Battling personal demons with Confucian wisdom
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Bamboo frames a Shaolin warrior monk practicing kung fu moves.
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shaolin summer their home life under stress, a mother and daughter find redemption—at a chinese school for warriors
justin guariglia
By k ay l i e j o n e s
april 2016 | national GeoGraphic traveller inDia
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We’re standing in a roW like soldiers at attention. it’s the mandatory line-up, 8.30 a.m., in a steaming concrete courtyard at the Qufu Shaolin Kung Fu School. i can’t quite believe i’m here, in china, 530 kilometres south of Beijing. the only time i remember feeling this anxious and uncertain was on my first day of preschool. then, as now, i had no social or cultural reference for what was about to take place. i look around for my 15-year-old daughter, eyrna, but can’t see her.
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down, you get up. almost as important to me lately has been an accompanying maxim: there is no shame in getting knocked down. no shame. Still, a feeling of guilt, of wanting to delete the previous year of tumult from my daughter’s life, has plagued me. that is about to change. Shaolin KunG Fu is the archetypal martial art of china, developed by monks at the first Shaolin temple, established in the fifth century in neighbouring henan province. it is also one of the most difficult martial arts to master. Shaolin monks begin training at age eight and practice eight hours a day for at least ten years. this first week will be hugely challenging for me, but, with my years of training and the wisdom of confucius’s teachings, not impossible. Still standing at attention, i repeat to myself, this was a good idea. our shifu (master), a 34th-generation Shaolin warrior monk in his 30s, paces before us, assessing what he has to work with. then he spreads his arms and shouts, “Go, go!” everyone takes off, sprinting through the gold-and-crimson gates of the school’s white-walled compound and into the surrounding Shimen Forest national park. We’re running? i’m appalled. i haven’t run since college. plus, my new Feiyue training shoes have no cushion in the soles, and i didn’t bring running shoes. i don’t own running shoes. how far are we running? You can do this, i goad myself. You kick-boxed six days a week to get into shape. You’re in shape. the strongest students, whose bodies ripple with muscle, lope ahead like gazelles. they’ll be back at the school before the rest of us have reached the halfway point.
justin guariglia
We’ve been assigned to different groups, which is probably good. i won’t be able to focus on her, which will make me focus on myself—something i both want and don’t want to do. this adventure was her idea; she has been studying chinese history, including the ancient chinese philosopher confucius, an advocate of self-cultivation who was born in the adjacent city of Qufu. i’m realizing i’ll need a lot of confucianism to propel me through what lies ahead: four weeks of intense training under the tutelage of Shaolin warrior monks. Sweat trickles down my arms, legs, and back. at 52, i’m the oldest student by at least a decade. the people near me, martial arts enthusiasts from around the world, appear lean and fit, well prepared for the upcoming rigours. they’re not even sweating. What in the world was i thinking? eyrna and i have been on our own for months, since my husband, her father, was hospitalized for treatment-resistant depression. looking back on this cataclysm in our family life, i feel now that we were standing on the deck of a sturdy ship that slowly was sinking—and even as the floor tilted beneath my feet, i refused to see it. in the end, i had two choices: go down with the ship or grab eyrna and run. We’ve run, thousands of miles from home and all that is familiar. Shipwrecked and clinging to each other on our little desert island, the two of us need both distance from our immediate reality and a goal, a new direction, to aim for. pondering this, a wave of panic washes over me. our sole connection to the place we’ve travelled to is our passion for martial arts, which eyrna and i have studied for more than ten years. if there is one thing the martial arts have taught us it’s that when you’re knocked
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Participants climb down steps on fours in Shimen Forest National Park neighbouring the Shaolin Kung Fu School. This is one of the many exercises that are part of their training in the ancient martial art of Shaolin Kung Fu. april 2016 | national GeoGraphic traveller inDia
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Gates punctuate Qufu’s old city walls.
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confucius lived 500 years before christ; his philosophies, local farmers and workers pause by the side of the road to formed during a time of political turmoil, have shaped chinese watch the spectacle of panting foreigners stagger by. their eyes culture and thought for more than two millennia. confucianism linger longest on me. or am i imagining that? is based on ren, a principle of self-discipline and loving others i’m not. look, they’re laughing. it must be because of my age. while striving to better one’s mind and body. paramount is in traditional chinese society, i’m meant to be a grandmother, developing a clear head, devoid of anxious thought. nothing not a kung fu student. then i recall a line in confucius’s analects: could sound better right now. “at 40, i had no more doubts.” i’ll show them. We begin our explorations at what some consider the end: the i pick up the pace. Green fields of corn on either side of the cemetery of confucius, outside Qufu’s ancient city wall. a walk narrow road undulate in the summer heat. Sweat gushes off me. on a cypress-lined avenue, filled with excited chinese visitors, i feel ready to collapse, but my mind refuses to let my body stop. brings us through a blue gate filigreed with gold chinese script. By the time i re-enter the school’s gates, i’ve resolved to buy We have entered a World heritage area where, for more than whatever running shoes i can find. 2,400 years, confucius’s descendants—some 1,00,000 so far— “how far did we run?” i ask Kiah, a 19-year-old australian have been interred with the pomp accorded the most honoured who is dressed in a collared shirt and long black shorts, like a heads of state. My eyes take in burial mounds and stone stelae proper schoolgirl. i barely get the words out between breaths. as plentiful as the cypress and pine trees that form a vast “two kilometres,” she replies. “We run three times a day. that green parasol (one tree is planted for every grave). Statues of was the warm-up; now the training begins.” officials and animals stand guard. only the buzz of cicadas and My class is held in an enormous hall that feels like a steam electric tour buses whizzing by disturbs the silence. bath. i’ll be observed, and judgements about my abilities will be Following the surging crowd, we arrive at confucius’s tomb, passed. i spot eyrna through a window; her group is practicing a large burial mound covered with flowers and offerings, outside under a blazing sun. She moves with no hesitation, her and fronted by an incense burner and a stela carved with kicks rising high above her head. She looks positively elegant— chinese characters. a feeling of reverence, as i have in elegant, sweat-free, in the prime of her youth. and happy. the cathedrals, floats with the incense smoke on the still air. i watch sight energizes me. a chinese man bow over and over. i class starts with kicks and punches— imagine he, like me, has aspirations straight-legged, bent-kneed, jumping— My ShiFu SMileS. to overcome adversity with a lucid back and forth. i’m keeping up, though confucian mind. i’m leaving puddles everywhere. push, iN ThaT MoMeNT i the confucian golden rule states i tell myself. then a sabotage thought realize he uNderthat one must never impose on others tiptoes in: Why? For what? My father’s what one would not impose on oneself. voice enters my head. a Golden Gloves STaNdS i aiM To do this gives me pause: i’ve been imposboxer, gruff veteran of the WWii Battle ing harsh judgments and demands of Guadalcanal, and author of the 1951 my very Best and on myself that i would never impose war novel From Here to Eternity, James know my only enemy upon others. except, maybe, i demand Jones, my dad, died at 55 of congestive too much of my daughter. i buy a stick heart failure. i flash back to the time is myself of incense and light it. please help me he stood in front of my eighth-grade give myself and eyrna a break. english class and was asked, “Why do you write?” he answered with the story of British climber a BreaK of sorts comes one morning when my shifu, George Mallory, who, when asked why he needed to climb Shi Xing lin, tells me—through his translator, cindy—that Mount everest, answered—my father told the class of 13-yeari’m doing well for my age. So well that he allows me to skip olds, tears streaming from his eyes—“Because it is there.” “power training” to study ba gua with Master Wu. an “internal” Well, i am here—and unlike Mallory, who didn’t make it down style of kung fu, ba gua is softer on the joints and can be everest (his remains were recovered only in 1999, by national practiced into old age. Wu Shifu, 69, is a ba gua zhang master. Geographic grantee conrad anker), i’m going to finish this. i respond that i have no intention of skipping anything. My Sometimes we have to travel halfway around the world to repair shifu smiles. in that moment i realize he understands i aim our souls. to do my very best and know my only enemy is myself. What he doesn’t know is i’m here for a powerful reason: to come to to Be up at 6 a.M. For tai chi, i go to bed at 8 p.m. not terms with mistakes i’ve made, the most important of which eyrna. My teen hangs out happily with the 20-year-olds, playing now is my daughter being without her father. video games and watching movies. i had wanted this to be our the minute my daughter was born, i vowed to give her a shared experience, but she’s going her own way. as days pass, i safe and consistent childhood, perhaps to compensate for my barely catch sight of her. this makes me feel surprisingly alone own. My parents were huge drinkers; most nights, it seemed, but i leave her be, focusing on our upcoming visit to Qufu, just they were out at a party or brought the party to our house. they to the south, where i hope confucian wisdom will rub off on us. probably should not have had children, though i know my father Five other students, eyrna, and i share a taxi van to town. the was thrilled when i came along. Still, having grown up during road is jammed with mopeds, overburdened trucks, and every the Great Depression, he didn’t believe in coddling. he did offer imaginable type of claptrap car, all honking. a few shiny sedans help and advice when i asked for it, but that didn’t happen often with tinted windows speed past. roadside stalls sell fruits and because he was so busy writing. vegetables, of which only watermelon looks familiar. april 2016 | national GeoGraphic traveller inDia
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a statue guards Qufu’s Cemetery of Confucius, part of a World heritage Site that includes the Temple of Confucius.
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there was one thing he enjoyed teaching me, beginning when i was five: how to box. Jab, cross, hook. Jab, cross, hook. he was pleased with my hand-eye coordination. When i took up kickboxing decades later, his instructions came right back to me. in a way, i’ve brought eyrna here to learn her own version of jab, cross, hook—as survival skills. it doesn’t escape me that, in eastern cultures, one’s children are an extension of oneself. in taking on this difficult, ancient martial art, she and i are shaking our fists at recent events in our family life. tWo WeeKS have paSSeD, and i’ve learned only the first four moves of the tai chi 24-step form, another kung fu discipline. a fundamental move—circling my arms in the correct direction— eludes me. every morning when i wake, i consider quitting. this must be showing. “Shifu says when he was a boy, he was very angry to have tai chi practice because it was so slow and boring,” cindy tells me. “But it became very helpful to him.” i confide i don’t know why tai chi is so difficult for me. “Shifu says don’t think, just focus on your qi. Stay only with the first moves,” she advises. i used to believe “qi,” or life force, was a myth, some kind of legerdemain. But last week, i watched my shifu press the tip of a sharpened spear to the soft space between his collarbones and push his entire weight against it, forcing the wooden shaft to bow to the ground. the spear did not penetrate his skin. i start my form over, doing my best to empty my mind—which right now is reminding me to get some new running shoes— and think only about breathing into my lower abdomen. i step out with my left leg, bend my knees, bend my arms, circling, not thinking. the movements flow like water. i feel no fear, no regret, no shame, no guilt. i am practicing tai chi. i am here. “Yeessss,” my shifu says to me in english. i break into a smile and bow to him. ancient pine treeS tower above the temple of confucius, a complex of courtyards and red-walled buildings near Qufu’s centre constituting the oldest and largest site dedicated to the thinker. eyrna and i, nearing the end of our time in china, have come to connect with the man as he was when he was alive. We make our way through three courtyards to Dacheng hall, the central edifice, where towering sticks of incense burn in a gigantic cauldron. the pagoda-style roofs glint with touches of gilt. visitors, mostly chinese, mill around taking pictures, bowing heads, lighting incense, praying to their ancestors. My thoughts return to my father, who died before i grew up. What would he have thought of my failures? i know he would have been proud that he raised a fighter. During my last training session, my shifu instructed each of us students to find a corner in the garden and practice qigong movements. i did, and with time left, stood in a breathing meditation, my palms pressed to my abdomen. Slowly, inexorably, something rose within me, then broke loose. Sobs wracked my being. i was struggling to compose myself— i wasn’t sure what this was about—when i saw the shifu approach with cindy. “Shifu says,” cindy warned me gently, “that you must not go straight from qigong to static meditation. next time, you must try active meditation. hold the ball of energy in your hands. Shifu says in a few minutes you will be all right.”
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that was grief, i wanted to tell him. But mindful of the need for self-discipline, i didn’t say a word, thanked him, and bowed. Grief—undisciplined, unbalancing—is not the kind of thing you share with your shifu. now eyrna and i sit silently across from Dacheng hall, on the steps of a building lined with red pillars. a hot breeze whispers past, and red prayer tablets near us jingle like wind chimes. “i want to come back next summer,” eyrna says quietly. i choke up for some reason, and tell her i’m proud of her. She has had a good time on this journey. She was treated as an adult, pushed to her limits, and judged only on her practice. no one knew about our calamity. here, she was free. “You should come back, too,” she says. “hmmm.” i want to tell her i understand now why people sell their belongings and join monasteries; a life of extreme exercise and meditation looks good to me. i’ve never been in better shape. But in the quiet of this moment, i realize i no longer wish i’d handled anything in the past year differently, or had a different year. My work here, towards Shaolin strength and confucian calm, is, for now at least, done. i no longer need those running shoes, because i no longer need to run. Kaylie Jones is the author of seven books. her most recent, the novel The Anger Meridian, was published in july 2015. the vitals orientation the Qufu shaolin kung fu school is in the shimen mountain national park in Qufu. the city is in southwestern shandong province in eastern china, about 530 km/2-2.5 hr south of the capital Beijing by train. it is best known as the birthplace of confucius. the unesco world heritage site comprising his temple, cemetery, and family mansion is located here. Getting There there are direct flights from new delhi to Beijing three days a week. flights for the rest of the week and from other indian cities require a layover at a southeast asian or middle eastern hub. Beijing south railway station is 39 km/1 hr southwest of the airport, and has frequent trains to Qufu (2.5 hr; CNY244/`2,500 onwards). Visa tourist visas are valid for three months from date of issue and allow visitors to stay in china for up to 30 consecutive days. the application form and list of documents is available at www.visaforchina.org and can be submitted at the chinese visa application service centres at delhi, mumbai, and kolkata (processing time four days; visa and service fee `4,982). seasons the day temperature in autumn (sept-early oct) hovers around 25°c. in spring (apr-may), average day temperatures are about 20°c. the city comes alive during the Qufu international confucius culture festival, held 26 sept-10 oct. in summer (june-aug) temperatures rise above 22°c and rainfall is common. winters (nov-mar) are cold with an average temperature of about 1°c. Qufu shaolin kung Fu school students can join a short- or long-term training in martial arts at the school. it is open to all and no prior training in martial arts is required. there are also optional classes in mandarin, calligraphy, acupuncture and massage, and martial art theory (www.shaolinskungfu.com; average cost $420/`29,000 for traning and classes and English translator; accommodation $390/`26,000 per month).
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zhang peng/lightrocket/contriButor/getty images (actors & tricycle), keren su/china span/getty images (pillar)
actors reenact the opening of the medieval city gate of the Ming dynasty in Qufu (top); Giant inscribed stone slabs or stelae commemorating Confucius can be seen all around Qufu’s Cemetery of Confucius (bottom left); electric as well as manual tricycles are a common way to get around in a town as small as Qufu (bottom right).
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Surfer Ty Finnie readies for board action near Santa Teresa, a village on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast where residents and pets (facing page) relish a carefree lifestyle.
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A family escapes Manhattan for Costa Rica’s mellow coast—and discovers the joy of simple ways
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P h oto g r a P h s By K R I STA R O S S OW april 2016 | national GeoGraphic traveller inDia
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A beachgoer unwinds Tico style (top) in a hammock; Coconuts (bottom) offer cool refreshment on hot afternoons.
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husband, our three kids, and i are 45 minutes into a bumpy ride along a dusty, winding road on the nicoya peninsula of costa rica when i flash back four months. Sitting pretty on a groomed beach on long island, my husband, Manny, and i were talking about—well, what does anyone talk about at the end of one vacation but the planning for the next? tired of spending a fortune on the same conventional family trips everyone else we knew was taking, Manny vowed the next one would be different. We would travel to an unfamiliar place to live like locals, or as close to locals as we could get. Which is how we find ourselves en route to the small seaside settlement called Mal pais—“bad country,” a name derived from the area’s steep, rugged terrain, not suitable for farming. or so the story went. “this can’t be the restaurant,” says my 11-year-old son as my husband turns our rental jeep into a sand parking lot. “it looks like a dog run.” on the far side of a rope, dozens of dogs are running free around a few haphazardly placed plastic tables. could this really be Banana Beach, the lunch place recommended by Bruno Demarco Quiroz, the young argentine manager of hotel Moana, where we’re staying? then a couple of beers go by on a tray, and my husband all but jumps from the car, commanding us to follow. there is not enough shade at our table, the food is slow in coming, the kids’ milk is served warm. But rather than complain, my children peel off one by one to gape at the same thing Manny and i, veteran island visitors, can’t help but stare at: the enormous, savage beauty of the unspoiled jungle beach. Usually when we travel, we have to stick the children in some pricey day camp to grab even five minutes alone. here there’s nary a counsellor, ball, or sand bucket in sight. all that’s left is what’s around us—and our kids become more absorbed in an exploration of this new world than they’ve been anywhere else. this means Manny and i are free. Soon we notice we are the only americans here; the people around us are speaking Spanish, French, German. no one seems to be talking about the stock market, real estate, or the best after-school sports programmes. if they are, we can’t understand them. We haven’t come to Mal pais to see wildlife; for that we’d visit Manuel antonio national park or some of costa rica’s many other reserves. Yet by staying at the small hotel Moana, we now live in close proximity to the natural world, a fact underscored early the following morning when we’re awakened by the very loud calls of red-furred howler monkeys. at breakfast, on the lodge’s vertiginously cantilevered dining pavilion—featuring, perhaps too literally, drop-dead views of the swirling ocean below—we spy iguanas in the treetops. vultures circle in the distance. “So you like tico style,” Quiroz observes. tico? “native costa rican. You know, laid-back, pura vida, live and let live.” We all nod, and, assured, he gives us his next recommendation: a surfing school at playa hermosa, or Beautiful Beach. to Get to BeaUtiFUl Beach, we first must drive through Santa teresa, a small, hectic town that is crammed with
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Surfing instructors approach Playa Hermosa, or “beautiful beach,” known for its uncrowded, palm-fringed expanse of sand. april 2016 | national GeoGraphic traveller inDia
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Horses hotfoot it along Playa Carmen, a popular surfing venue between Santa Teresa and the village of Mal Pais.
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Howler monkeys (top), native only to Latin America, enjoy air rights at Hotel Moana (bottom), a small resort tucked into the jungleblanketed hills of Mal Pais.
surfboard and sunglass shops in a swirling cloud of dust. people buzz around on mopeds and atvs, nearly all wearing bandanas over their faces. We drive by a French bakery and an open-air chicken restaurant, where we see whole chickens being cooked on a grill on the ground only a few feet from our passing tyres. the Shaka Surf School is just off the road, but we miss it because it appears little more than an encampment. pulling up to it, i find myself wondering about the safety protocols of this “school.” But before i can mortify Manny by questioning a staff member, he quickly hires Brent newell, a 23-year-old blond transplant from cocoa Beach in Florida, U.S.a., to coach him and our oldest son. he steers us to a through-the-jungle shortcut that he assures us will lead to the beach. or not. the path quickly turns into a river of mud. With my husband and 11-year-old off on their lesson with newell, i’m left to slipslide along it with no assistance, one younger child hiked up on each hip. together the three of us pass under a canopy of giant trees bedecked with dozens of mud clumps: termite colonies, a fact i keep to myself. little brown spider monkeys up in the branches rain nuts down to the ground. Kerplunk! Kerplunk! then we see it, a beach even bigger, wilder, and more beautiful than the one we visited yesterday, the only commerce on it two men selling coconut water out of the husk. By now the kids are getting hungry, so i ask newell for suggestions. “Koji’s,” he answers. “awesome sushi. and don’t worry about having the right clothes,” he adds, reading my mind. “this,” he points to his bare chest and board shorts, “is dressed for costa rica.” We descend on Koji’s—a roadside eatery near playa hermosa— in our beach cover-ups and flip-flops. the food is amazing and the crowd casual. Still, the vibe is decidedly tico, with friendly dogs roaming between our tables. and so begins the routine of our two-week trip, although really it’ll be the opposite of routine: We’ll try something new each day. We will hike, or try to hike, waterfalls near the neighbouring town of Montezuma, for which my cautious husband will wear sneakers, unlike the barefoot ticos. this will cause him to slip and bang his leg, prematurely adjourning our excursion to a beachfront italian restaurant, playa de los artistas, where we will enjoy perhaps the best meal we’ve ever had. We’ll ride horses tico style—helmetless—with a 16-year-old guide named Josué, who, as he leads us through a campground, will warn, “there will be some dogs, do not act scared,” just as a ragtag pack of, oh, 20 or so fierce hounds charge at us and our horses. hundreds of ants will invade our room back at the lodge, and one night our air conditioning will not simply break but have a breakdown, spewing balls of hail in our faces. Yet everything will be fixed, and anyway, none of these setbacks will matter. We will lose track of time, forget what day of the week it is, and near the end of our stay, discover a beach with tidal pools where hundreds of snails cling to the primordial rock. our children will play here for hours, splashing among the hermit crabs, starfish, and other sea creatures. “it’s like SeaWorld,” i tell them. “no,” my 11-year-old will correct me, “it’s the real one.” Journalist and writer Johanna Berkman covers family life on her eponymous blog. former National Geographic Traveler (U.S.) photo editor krista rossow returned from this assignment with a new appreciation for howler monkeys.
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■ costa rica
Sunsets draw visitors and locals alike to the soft sand of Playa Carmen. The rip tides along this beach are perfect for surfers of all levels.
the VitaLs OrientatiOn Nicoya Peninsula lies in western costa rica, on the Pacific coast. it is about 140 kilometres long and is divided into the provinces of guanacaste in the north and Puntarenas in the south. stunning beaches and coastal scenery are Nicoya’s calling cards.
Nicoya Peninsula COSTA RICA San Jose Santa Teresa Mal Pais PACIFIC OCEAN
Visa indians who have a visa to enter the U.s., canada, or the european Union do not need a visa to visit costa rica for a stay of upto 30 days. others can write to the embassy of
seasOns in the Nicoya Peninsula, the sun shines long and bright during the dry season (dec-apr). the mercury can rise to 32°c, but it is a great time for travellers to spot birds and animals in the peninsula’s reserves. during the “green season” (May-aug), the peninsula experiences occasional rain late in the afternoon. it turns a lush green, but also gets muddier, which keeps most tourists away. the maximum temperature is 29°c. the rainy season (sept-oct) is referred to as winter in Nicoya, and is marked by heavy rainfall. the maximum temperature is 26°c. in November, the rains recede and Nicoya transforms into a surfers’ paradise.
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iNterNatioNaL MaPPiNg (map)
GettinG there it is easier to reach Nicoya Peninsula from the costa rican city of Liberia than from its capital, san José. there are no direct flights between india and Liberia. flights from New delhi and Mumbai to the city’s daniel oduber Quirós international airport require at least one stop at an american gateway (transit requires a U.s. visa). regular taxis ply between the airport and Nicoya Peninsula (70 km/1.5 hr).
costa rica in New delhi at concr-in@rree.go.cr to request the visa application form. its submission is followed by a personal interview at the embassy, and the visa can be granted on the same day. the visa fee is $32/`2,135 and the processing time between the online application and interview is about 15 working days. a number of financial Caribbean documents like bank statements are required at Sea the time of application.
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By NaTasha sahgal wiTh Niloufer VeNkaTramaN
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■ ne pal Guests enjoy panoramic views of Everest and its surrounding peaks from the terrace of Everest View Hotel, located at a height of 13,000 feet. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, this is the world’s highest luxury hotel.
egmnot strigl/image broker/dinodia
After the disAstrous eArthquAke thAt rocked NepAl iN 2015, the everest trAil is opeN AgAiN, welcomiNg visitors to the high mouNtAiNs. here’s A diY guide to trekkiNg to the everest BAse cAmp
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Three years ago,
i completed a solo trek to the everest Base Camp (eBC) in Nepal. it took a lot of planning, motivation, and muscle ache to complete the trip, but it was worth every minute. The varied experiences i had over the course of the two weeks i was in the himalayas, made it eminently memorable. for me, this wasn’t just a walk in the mountains. it included a thrilling plane ride where i admired the himalayas from up above, and a glimpse of sherpa life and culture up-close. Though i had the satisfaction of getting near one of the world’s most famous peaks, i was also acutely aware of the dangers of travelling into the high mountains. everest Base Camp is the site where mountaineers who intend to summit mount everest (called sagarmatha by Nepalis and Chhomolungma by Tibetans), set up camp and live for a few months during the summer. This is where they acclimatize and prepare for ascents to the summit of the world’s highest peak. Non-climbers like me, can comfortably walk up to this point without supplemental oxygen or specialised climbing equipment. The excellent infrastructure along this trekking route makes it easy for a visitor to trek from one lodge (often called a teahouse in Nepal) to the next. here’s a breakdown of how to plan, begin, and complete the trek.
WHAT KIND OF TRIP?
Decide what kind of trip you want. there are three ways to do this trek. Solo in the nepal himalayas it is safe and fine to be walking on trails alone, so long as you don’t veer off the trodden paths. Tip Whether travelling solo or with a porter, consider joining up with other solo travellers to walk together for a day or two, then with others for another few days, so you have company walking. With a porter or guide, or both note that often porters will walk way ahead of you and reach the day’s destination hours before you have. they will carry your backpack and get it to the next destination, but beyond the basics, they usually don’t take the place of a guide. a guide will and should stay with you the entire duration of the trek. With a trekking company Join a group trek if you are not confident about planning and walking alone. treks are usually inclusive of food, accommodation (tented or teahouse), guides, and porters. there are hundreds to choose from, many based in thamel. prices start at `60,000 and can go up to `4,00,000 for a luxury trek that includes
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three-course meals, personal guides, and helicopter drops. TIME OF YEAR
plan the trip at least three months ahead, so that there is enough time to prepare and train. March to May is very comfortable weather-wise, though there may be days of rain. october to early December is colder, but the skies are clearer, making it the best time for views and photography. FITNEss TRAININg
almost anyone can do this trek with the right training and planning. at various times, trekkers have spotted a person with a prosthetic leg, a 75-year-old, and even a group of blind trekkers. While the trek to eBc does not require technical mountaineering or rock climbing skills, one does need to be reasonably fit. the daily routine involves walking for at least 4-7 hours a day; there are days when it’s almost all uphill. Whether you choose to carry your own backpack or hire a porter, training is mandatory. if you plan on carrying your own pack, make sure you acquire it early and train with it loaded up, as if it was the real trek. Start training
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Expense Stats Flights and Airport taxes `40,000 (or as little as `20,000). this is where you can save the most if you plan ahead and if you are flexible enough with your schedule to be able to buy the nepali rupee value fare to lukla (see getting there). Stay and Food in kathmandu, stay and food for 4 days should cost under npr9,000/`5,630 (can be done for less). Trek plan to budget about npr4,000/`2,500 per day (can be done for less if you stay in dorms with shared facilities). Porter npr15,000/`9,384 for the whole trek. Permits/park entry npr2,100/`1,313 Miscellaneous npr5,000/`3,128 Total approximately `1.25 lakhs (without required personal gear).
Facing page: andrew peacock/aurora photos/corbis/imagelibrary (painting), saiko3p/shutterstock (monastery)
Before you go
â– ne pal
Along the trail travellers encounter Buddhist chortens, prayer flags, and paintings of the Buddha’s eyes (top) at various points; Evening prayers at Tengboche monastery (bottom).
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Trekkers sit outside their tent overlooking Namche Bazaar, a village in the Khumbu area, regarded as a gateway to the Everest. It is easy to spend a few days here, acclimatizing to the altitude at one of numerous lodges, available in every budget bracket.
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Traditionally, sherpas believed that some mountains were gods’ abode and must not be intruded upon. and so for generations they never attempted to climb mount everest, until a steady stream of climbers from the west made mountaineering a profitable enterprise.
aaron huey/national geographic creative/corbis/imagelibrary
â– ne pal
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At 16,000 feet, Lobuche village is one of the last overnight stops with accommodation on the EBC trail.
a must as even seemingly minor dental problems, like a cavity, can get aggravated at high altitude. people have had to turn back three days previously from base camp because a mild toothache became unbearable in the mountains. REsEARcH AND READINg
Don’t underestimate the importance of this aspect of the trip. the most important health concern to be aware of is that
VIsIT A DOcTOR
everyone can benefit from a visit to their doctor before a trip like this. people with lung or heart problems, diabetes, epilepsy or other ailments must make sure they consult their doctor before undertaking this journey. a dental check-up is also
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oxygen levels drop as you go higher up the mountains, and can get quite low at high altitudes, and some extra precautions are needed. read up on high altitude sickness (haS) or acute mountain sickness (aMS), hypothermia, and other problems that can occur at high altitudes and cold weather. learn to recognise the symptoms of altitude sickness in yourself and others. Find out what you need to do if altitude sickness strikes,
Altitude Sickness death from altitude sickness is a very real danger in the mountains. acute mountain sickness (ams) is very common on any high-altitude trek. the most basic symptoms are headache, nausea, and fatigue. acclimatization helps adjust to the low oxygen levels. the best ways to acclimatize is to ascend slowly (less than 1,312 feet per day), drink plenty of fluids and eat garlic/garlic-rich foods. take day hikes to high altitudes, sleep at lower altitudes, and stay hydrated. if you experience any symptoms of ams, descend immediately. even a 328-foot descent can make a world of difference. rest for a night and slowly ascend again, if symptoms persist, turn back. extreme forms of altitude sickness are hape (high altitude pulmonary oedema) and hace (high altitude cerebral oedema) where fluid accumulates in the lungs and brain respectively. both are life-threatening. recognise the symptoms of ams and act before it turns fatal.
michael s. lewis/historical/corbis/imagelibrary
by walking a lot. to gauge whether you are ready for the trek, by the time you leave for nepal you should be comfortable walking with a 10-15 kg backpack for at least a few hours. Start your training at least two months before your trip. if you can, take weekend hikes and climb nearby hills with your pack, to get yourself mountain ready. even if you intend to take a porter, walk with a 5-7 kg backpack during training. it will make you fitter and happier when you are in the mountains. Tip training with weights in the gym does not help at all, as an entirely different set of muscles get used on a trek. running on the treadmill or up and down flights of stairs may help build stamina, but it’s better to get outdoors where you’re in touch with the real environment.
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gETTINg THERE To Kathmandu By Air Direct flights are
available from Mumbai ( from `16,000 and up round trip) and new Delhi ( from `10,000 and up round trip) to Kathmandu. By Road/Train this is a long route and it is not a comfortable journey. take a train to Gorakhpur (`2,600 twotier AC from Mumbai) then a bus or shared jeep to the border town of Sinauli (3 hours/`60). cross the border and then get into a direct bus to Kathmandu (12 hours/`300). To Lukla lukla, a small village with an
a British surveyor, sir andrew scott waugh, gave mount everest its english name in 1865. he named it after sir george everest, a welsh geographer.
airstrip, is the starting point of the trek. it is possible to do a 7-day trek to get there on foot from Jiri (an 8-hour bus ride from Kathmandu), but most people tend to fly in to lukla. twin-engine planes make the journey to and from Kathmandu every morning. Yeti airlines and tara air fly this route and tickets can be bought online or through a travel agent. Some airlines sell a separate fare for indians. indians are also allowed to pay the significantly lower local fare (also called the nepali fare npr4,410/`2,562) for most airlines. all other nationalities have to buy the dollar value fare ($165/`10,445 one-way). however, there are only a few nepali-fare seats on each flight and usually the first two flights of the day (the ones most likely to take off ) will usually have only dollar-fare seats. if you absolutely must get on a flight on a particular day, the highest chance you have of making it is if you book the dollar fare on the first flight of the day. Flights are routinely cancelled and delayed because of bad weather or visibility, so always book the earliest flight you can get. Keep at least a two-day buffer before your flight back home out of nepal, in case the flight from lukla is cancelled. VIsAs
indians don’t need a visa to enter nepal, but do need either a passport valid for at least six months, or a government-issued identity card such as a voter’s iD, pan card, or driver’s licence. rules change so check with airline before booking.
The village of Namche Bazaar caters to EBC trekkers and mountaineers, and has several stores selling mountaineering gear and other staples.
Gathering Gear Hiking boots are the most important thing needed for this trek. they can make or break your trip so don’t skimp on this. invest in a sturdy, comfortable pair. break in the new shoes by walking in them for at least a month before the trek. most of the gear required can be bought from adventure gear stores. you can also buy or rent a lot of equipment in kathmandu or even lukla or namche bazaar, for a reasonable price. it is possible to trek till namche and then hire a sleeping bag as most lodges till there provide clean, warm blankets. Sun protection is important even when the sun is not out. at high altitudes, the uv rays will burn your skin before you realise it.
Gear Checklist l 40-60 litre backpack l day pack for basics l waterproof covers for your packs l water bottles, 2 litres (hydration bladders often freeze in winter) l sleeping bag (rated at least 0°c for summer and -15°c for winter) l sunglasses l warm hat and scarf l headlamp with extra batteries l sunscreen lotion with spf above 50 l woollen gloves l 3 pairs of woollen socks l 2 running t-shirts l 2 full-sleeved thermal undershirts l 1 fleece jacket l rain and windproof jacket l thick down jacket for winter treks l 4-6 underwear l 2 pairs of long johns l 2 pairs of synthetic material hiking pants. l 2 trekking poles (optional but helpful) l lip balm l oil-based moisturiser l toilet paper l hand sanitizer l water purification filter or liquid/ tablets (iodine) l first aid—personal medication, paracetamol, diuretics, a course of antibiotics for stomach infections, antacids, anti-inflammatory and analgesics, electrolytes, band-aids, pain balm, and antiseptic cream.
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dmitri alexander/national geographic creative/corbis/imagelibrary
as denial is a common response. the best remedy for altitude illness is to descend, something few trekkers are willing to do, sometimes risking their lives. it’s useful to have a guidebook and map of the region. Trekking in the Everest Region by Jamie McGuiness (trailblazer) is one of the best guides written about this region. though it hasn’t been updated since 2008, word is out that it will be updated in 2016.
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iN kaThmaNdu
plan to spend a minimum of two days in Kathmandu to get paperwork sorted, as well as finish some lastminute shopping. slEEP
thamel is Kathmandu’s tourist heart and the most convenient place to stay. the area is full of adventure goods stores selling/renting everything needed for an eBc trek. there are also plenty of currency changers, and stores selling maps and guides. the streets are lined with hotels, most of which are clean, well-priced and aimed at the trekking tourist. Tibet Guest House is a mid-priced hotel with a spacious rooftop and view of Kathmandu (tibetguesthouse. com; +977-1-4260383;
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NPR2080/`1,300). Thamel Eco Resort has comfortable rooms and friendly staff (thamelecoresort.com; +9771-4263810; doubles from NPR7,300/`4,504). Budget travellers can share a clean dorm room or get a private suite at Alobar 1000, a hostel and bar with friendly hosts, who organise events, and serve a delicious homemade dinner (alobar1000. com; +977-1-4410114; NPR500/`300 for a bed in a dorm). Dwarika is a fourstar heritage hotel designed like an old newari palace. it is four kilometres from thamel and is the best choice for a more luxurious stay. its restaurant serves a six-course traditional meal (dwarikas.com; doubles from `19,500).
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EAT
Kathmandu’s thamel area is packed with eateries that cater to all kinds of tourists, particularly the western trekker. From pizzas and steaks, to baked goods, and sandwiches, there is no dearth of reliable food for travellers. DRINK
one of the most important health issues any visitor faces in nepal has to do with safe
at the summit of mount everest, the atmospheric pressure is only 30 per cent that of sea level.
drinking water. Safe, potable water is not available on tap in nepal and you need to make sure you are well prepared. avoid drinking bottled water which could be well past its best-before date and adding to the plastic garbage that piles up in the mountains. Many lodges sell treated water. iodine tablets or lugol’s liquid iodine are popular ways of purifying water. a water purifying pump is also convenient. in lodges and teahouses you can also ask for tato pani or hot water, but unless it has been boiled for 20 minutes it’s not completely safe. PRElIMINARIEs IN KATHMANDu
on the first day in Kathmandu, check in to
john van hasselt/corbis sport premium/corbis/corbis/imagelibrary
The bustling district of Thamel, once a favourite with hippies, continues to attract backpackers and mountaineers from around the world.
■ ne pal
cuRRENcY
indian currency is accepted at almost all commercial establishments in nepal (`1=npr1.6). however, you need to bring all your indian money in `100 notes or under. changing higher
currency notes is often not possible. Moneychangers and atMs are available in Kathmandu but not higher up in the mountains. HIRINg A PORTER/guIDE
if you plan on hiring a porter or guide for your trek, book one early, especially in peak season. there are several licensed shops all along thamel (npr1,500/`937 per day for a porter from reputable agency or lodge; price includes the porter’s accommodation and food; similar prices for a guide). Save money by getting a local guide/porter who meets you at the airport at lukla, otherwise you have to pay airfare for them from Kathmandu. Spend your time in Kathmandu picking up gear and supplies you may need. there is no need to carry food on the trek, but it’s recommended that you stock up on some dried fruit and nuts for energy on the go.
Thamel’s cafés serve a variety of cuisines catering to global travellers (top); Carving detail (bottom) from Thamel’s Kantipur Temple House, a boutique hotel constructed in the traditional Nepali architectural style. an irut thailand/shutterstock (Food), dmitri alexander/national geographic magazines/getty images (carving)
your hotel and, as soon as you can, head to the nepal tourism Board office to get your trekking information Management System (tiMS) card/permit (timsnepal.com; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily except Sat and public holidays; NPR2,000/`1,240/$20). there is also a tiMS counter at Saatghumti in thamel (7 a.m.-6 p.m. daily; Sat and public holidays 10 a.m.1 p.m.). carry your passport, two passport-sized photos, and the trek itinerary in order to receive the permit. only US dollars or nepali currency are accepted for the permit. the tiMS permit will be checked several times during the trek.
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day of Trek Lukla is quite literally the gateway to Mount Everest, as most trekkers and climbers begin their walking here after arriving by a flight from Kathmandu at the town’s tiny Tenzing-Hillary airport.
order a taxi the night before your flight to lukla (NPR400600/`250-375) and plan to reach the airport at least two hours before your flight. reach the airport and look for the departure tax counter. pay the airport tax and save your receipt (NPR250/`150). then wait. Just because your flight is scheduled for 9 a.m. doesn’t mean it will leave at 9 a.m. a lot depends on the weather in lukla that morning. sTART THE TREK
lukla is at an altitude of 9,300 feet. Many trekkers choose to stay the first night here. alternatively, some get off the flight, gather their gear and head to the trail to begin walking towards phakding. Walk at a steady pace, stop frequently for snacks and water. Stay hydrated and enjoy the trail. Don’t worry about booking accommodation or planning each meal as there are plenty of restaurants and lodges along the way.
bath (often paid for separately, `100-200). Some lodges charge a fee for charging your phone or other gadgets. ABOuT EVEREsT BAsE cAMP
For most of the year, everest Base camp is nothing but an empty patch of land, with a few prayer flags. For a short period of about two months each year mountaineers seeking to summit Mt. everest set up base camp here (between March and early May). During that time expeditions are busy with the business of mountain climbing and while you may observe camp activity from a distance, this is not a place to hang out. While an individual mountaineer or climber may speak to one or two visitors, they are usually not inclined to speak to the average traveller. While visiting base camp, temper your expectations because frankly, though it is the gateway to the roof of the world, there is nothing there. You cannot camp or stay there overnight. at best expect to spend an hour or two there and head back down to Gorakshep, the last point on the trek where a lodge is available.
slEEP AND EAT
the average price of a dorm bed is npr200/`125 per night as long as meals are eaten from the lodge’s restaurant (NPR1,000/`620 per meal). rooms may cost at least NPR900/`500 per night with shared facilities and rooms with an attached toilet and bathroom can go for npr2,000/`1,250 and above. the cost of lodging and food goes up as you get higher up the mountain, because that’s how far goods have to be carried on the backs of humans or yaks. Budget npr4,000/`2,500 per day for a comfortable stay, lots of food, warm drinks, and a
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NEED TO KNOW Nearest medical post Kunde hospital, Khumjung. Nearest dentist nawang lama at the Khumbhu lodge in
namche Bazaar runs a dental clinic for emergencies. If you need to be evacuated helicopters are available out of Khumjung. contact the nearest lodge owner to help get you out. Natasha sahgal is a traveller and writer. her itchy feet take her around the world, making friends wherever she goes.
roberto schmidt/staff/afp/getty images Facing page: franck guiziou/terra/corbis/corbis/imagelibrary
KATHMANDu AIRPORT
â– ne pal The descent from Everest Base Camp to Lukla is much faster than the journey up since trekkers do not need to break for acclimatization or cope with altitude.
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Focus | Off t he Gr i d TREKInITINERARY
dAY 1 lukla to monjo 9,199
this is an approximate itinerary. each person walks at their own pace. at this altitude kilometres make little sense and distance covered is given in the time taken. trekkers adjust the days and stops to suit their speed, taking longer or stopping at different villages than the ones mentioned here.
walk past the little village of lukla and get accustomed to passing large groups of dzos (a yak-cow mix). navigate the long suspension bridges over the dudh kosi river. visit the village gompa in monjo, if you have the energy for a small additional hike.
feet (4-6 hours)
dAY 4 Namche Bazaar to
tengboche 12,696 feet (4-6 hours)
dAY 5 tengboche to
dingboche 14,475 feet (6-8 hours)
this is another day of steep ascents, descents, and more ascents, and the air will begin to get noticeably thinner. join the monks for the evening prayer at tengboche monastery, the largest in the region.
a tiring but pleasant walk through grey, rocky, wide trails to the sparsely populated town of dingboche.
dAY 7 dingboche to lobuche
16,177 feet (5-7 hours)
this is an extremely steep and strenuous stretch up to the memorial for climbers who have lost their lives while attempting to climb mount everest. take a well-deserved rest here and enjoy impressive views before heading to lobuche.
dAY 10 gorakshep to
pheriche 14,064 feet (7-8 hours)
the walking days are now long but less tiring. cover as much ground as possible per day. you will find yourself gaining energy as you descend.
dAY 11 pheriche to Namche
Bazaar 11,318 feet (8 hours)
enjoy apple pie and the cafĂŠs of namche bazaar. look out for cafĂŠs playing movies and documentaries about the everest region and the sherpas.
dAY 2 monjo to Namche
dAY 3 Acclimatization day
begin at sunrise as the day is long and full of steep climbs. enter sagarmatha national park. indians pay local prices (NPR100/`62). the last 2-3 hours of the walk include an extremely steep climb. take a break when mount everest first comes into view.
enjoy this rest day by exploring the mountain town. if it’s a saturday, go to the busy market. take a day hike to the posh everest view hotel and enjoy a view of mount everest with a pot of warm tea. walk past the long wall of mani stones on the way to the khumjung school, built by edmund hillary. the khumjung gompa has a skull on display, allegedly of the yeti.
Bazaar 11,318 feet (4-7 hours)
dAY 6 Acclimatization day take an acclimatization walk to chhukhung (15,583 feet). visit the himalayan rescue association (hra) information centre in the afternoon to learn more about acute mountain sickness. visitors can also visit an hra clinic in the neighbouring town of pheriche.
dAY 8 lobuche to gorakshep
dAY 9 gorakshep to everest
16,942 feet (4-5 hours)
Base camp (17,585 feet) to gorkashep (7-8 hours round trip)
the walk is not steep, but the oxygen level in the air makes it extremely slow. pace yourself, stay hydrated, and get plenty of rest stops. visit kala pathar in the afternoon (3 hours return) or early next morning. mount everest is visible only from kala pathar (and not from the everest base camp).
after breakfast, begin the slow walk along the glacial ridge leading straight to the khumbu icefall and everest base camp. you’ll know you’ve reached when you see hundreds of colourful prayer flags.
dAY 12 Namche to lukla
9,373 feet (8 hours)
head to the tara air/yeti airlines booth and reconfirm your flight for the next day. even if you have a reservation, you cannot get on the plane unless you reconfirm your ticket in lukla a day before. in spite of the confirmation, eventually the weather will decide whether you reach kathmandu or not.
on may 29, 1953, edmund hillary and Tenzing Norgay stayed just 15 minutes on the summit of mount everest. Before leaving, Tenzing, a sherpa, buried candy and cookies in the snow as a Buddhist offering to the gods. 102
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shutterstock/indiapicture (mountain), previous spread: christian kober/jai/passage/corbis/imagelibrary (bridge & stone wall), john van hasselt/corbis news/corbis/ imagelibrary (monk), the asahi shimbun premium/contributor/getty images (women), jai/passage/corbis/imagelibrary (children), christine pemberton/latitudestock images/dinodia (trekkers), robert preston photography/alamy/indiapicture (signboard), frank tschope/almy/indiapicture (prayer Flags), jai/passage/corbis/ imagelibrary (yaks), dmitri alexander/national geographic creative/corbis/image library (reading), vadim petrakov/shutterstock (airplane)
â– ne pal
When the weather is clear, Kala Pathar, a three-hour return hike from Lobuche, affords great views of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, and the Khumbu Glacier. This is the closest view of Mount Everest on the base camp trek.
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Inheritors of an ancient lifestyle, villagers manoeuvre a dugout canoe in Papua, Indonesia.
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by CA R L H O F F M A N
It takes a Village A mOnth with nAtives in the junGles Of new GuineA Opens A visitOr’s eyes—And heArt
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he Town of agaTs perches aT
the edge of the known world, the only place within 25,000 square kilometres of mud and jungle on the southwest coast of the western pacific island of new Guinea that is even tenuously connected to anywhere else. there are no roads, no cars, just rickety boardwalks elevated over wetland, and it’s here, right after dawn, as mist rises from the night’s rain and the tropical colors of the blue river and green jungle are still rich, that our eyes meet—and we do a double take. his are small and brown. he is barefoot, his hair sticks up in tufts, and his septum has a hole the size of a dime. he reeks of sweat and smoke. a handwoven bag adorned with feathers dangles over his chest. he looks feral, and in a way he is. his name is Kokai, and he is an asmat tribesman from the village of pirien, where there are no artificial lights, no cell signals. We met when i visited his village a little over two years ago. i have learned some indonesian since, and we chat. he tells me he came to see his son but can’t get home, doesn’t have the money. i’ll pay for a boat back, i say, if i can come live in pirien with him for a month. it’s that simple. We travel for many reasons: to escape, relax, learn, startle ourselves, sometimes to meet new people, sometimes to get away from familiar ones. But as visitors, we touch only the surface of a place. this time i’m travelling to be alone, to leave behind everything i know and use to define myself, and immerse myself in a village, a culture, without any filters or supports, in order to know it, feel it, subsume myself in it. Some anthropologists have done that, including tobias Schneebaum in the amazon and Jean Malaurie in Greenland. only by going alone, with no connections, no alternatives, can i hope to enter a place and culture that is inaccessible not just in geography but in spirit. i have to stay long enough that i go from being alone to being accepted—if that’s even possible. So one day i’m alone in agats, which isn’t really being alone: My phone buzzes with incoming texts, diners fill the little restaurants, and there is a good chance i could get a seat, if i wanted, on one of the boats headed to the airstrip to the north. the next day i’m alone in pirien, at Kokai’s tiny, smoky house, the boat that got me here drifting away. i’m encircled by a crowd of 50. this is a completely different kind of alone; i’m cut off from everything and everyone i know, surrounded by unfamiliar men, women, and children. i’m in a sea of otherness, with no control over anything. pirien has no road, no electricity, no plumbing, no store. no one speaks a word of english. it’s total surrender to absolute foreignness, to a remote community of former cannibals. in a lifetime of travel, this is the most intense thing i’ve done.
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Feathers, seeds, and dog teeth adorn Asmat tribesmen, who still adhere to traditional ways.
â– indOnes ia
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In Focus | Off t he Gr i d gent, rich, humid. it pervades the village. i never grow used to it. Darkness falls, and bats pour out of the eaves. heavy-footed lizards hammer across the roofs, sounding infinitely bigger than they are. Without a moon, the village is pitch black; i see nothing but the glow of Kokai’s cigarette and heat lightning that flashes like a World War i artillery barrage. it’s all a mystery to me. the mosquitoes grow intense, so we head indoors, which is lit by one flame. people come and go, a constant stream of men, women, and naked children with runny noses. time inches by. the month i have ahead of me feels like a year. i can’t envision it, so i try not to. i’ll try to never think about time while i’m here. time isn’t the only thing different in pirien. there are no familiar things. no beds, chairs, tables, books, no sheets or blankets, not to mention computers or phones. Kokai is an important man, the former head of the village, but he and his wife have only a sleeping mat and (soiled) pillow, a knapsack, a battered suitcase holding a few plastic bowls and cups, and spears, paddles, bows, and arrows. Slowly, they fall asleep on the floor. i slip into the mosquito net i brought and fall asleep too. DoinG thiS, being in pirien, is about my giving up a sense of self. it’s the most basic requirement. none of the wants and needs and desires i usually experience a hundred times every day have a place here. check your calendar. Don’t be late. lock the door. let’s plan on tomorrow. no. i have to let it all go. or, yes. Yes to everything here. Yes to starchy sago rolls and sago worms and tiny shrimp that taste
Papua’s topography is mountainous and craggy in the central and northern parts, and includes the Baliem Valley and a cluster of tiny and remote villages like Angguruk (in picture). The tribes inhabiting these areas speak the Yali language and live in traditional thatched roof houses.
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thirty minutes after the boat has gone, severing my connection to the outside world, the crowd melts away, replaced by a group of men. old men, like Kokai, barbed-wire thin and muscled, with holes in their septa and wearing fur headbands with white feathers. they each shake my hand, and we sit cross-legged in a circle on the ground. Kokai brings out tobacco i’ve given him, and the men each take a palmful. they talk and smoke—smoking is big in asmat; it’s the social ritual—knocking ashes onto the floor, adding to the dust that covers everything. they talk and talk, mostly in indonesian, and i listen as best i can, catching the occasional word. they talk too fast, too colloquially, for me to understand. My legs hurt, my knees ache, but i sit still; what else am i to do? When the men eventually trickle out, Kokai’s wife brings one spoon and two bowls, each with a mix of noodles and rice, then disappears into the kitchen, which is a porch with a smouldering fire. the food has no seasoning, no salt. Will it make me sick? i have no idea. there is nothing i can do but eat, so i do. the sun is setting, the light dying. Flies buzz and land on my hands, arms, legs, the food. Kokai eats with his fingers. “Adik,” he says to me. “You are my younger brother.” later, we smoke on the front porch. Men come by, sit and smoke with us. packs of dogs lope along the boardwalk, through the swampy ground beneath the houses, sometimes attacking each other in a wild scrum of barking and howling. the air smells of human excrement; the toilet is in the kitchen, a hole in the floor that drops to the ground. other houses surround Kokai’s, and each is filled with people using their toilets. the smell is pun-
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The Dani tribesmen who live in and around the Baliem Valley, Papua, subsist on bananas and sweet potatoes. The latter is cooked in pits covered with hot rocks and leaves.
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The primary mode of transportation for the Asmat people is canoes made of local timber. Asmat territory lies along the Brazza River, which forms a lifeline for this tribe, connecting them to the outside world.
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In Focus | Off t he Gr i d like ammonia and more rice and noodles than i thought a human being could eat in one sitting—because sometimes there is no meal later. i brought bottles of water, but they run out fast; then it’s rainwater from barrels, water wiggling with mosquito larvae. it’s the village water, so that’s what i drink. But it runs out when it doesn’t rain—and Kokai says if the skies don’t open up soon, we’ll have to go into the jungle and scrape water off plants. the barrel water does not make me sick, so i suck it down. i’M not a MorninG perSon. in a world without clocks, however, the sun dictates everything. Dawn hits just before 5 a.m. By 6 a.m. i’ve given up sleep, and emerge to find Kokai slipping tassels of cockatoo feathers onto paddles he has carved. paddles, shields, spears, Kokai carves them all, and will sell them in agats, his only way of earning money. it’s often in the morning when he opens up to me, patting the space next to him for me to sit. We eat flavourless dry sago and small whole fish and smoke our first cigarettes and drink coffee i brought, a luxury for him. pointing to the weapons, he shares their asmat names. Amun, bow. Jamasj, shield. Po, paddle. then he shows me a scar on his arm the size of a quarter. “From an arrow!” he slaps his arm, slaps his thigh and groin— four wounds, one from an arrow that entered his groin and came out the other side. “Otsjanep!” he exclaims, assigning the wounds to a war that split the village in two in 1964. he grabs a shield, hides behind
Carl Hoffman and his new friends from Agats, Papua
the bAckstOry carl hoffman travelled to the interiors of papua to solve the mystery behind the 1961 disappearance of michael rockefeller, 22-year-old heir to the rockefeller fortunes. the young man had set off for new Guinea to collect samples of primitive art as well as make a documentary, and vanished there. speculations about his death at the hands of the cannibalistic tribes, by drowning, or in an accident abounded and captured the imagination of many Americans. hoffman’s book Savage Harvest: A Tale of Cannibals, Colonialism, and Michael Rockefeller’s Tragic Quest for Primitive Art is a fictional retelling of rockefeller’s adventures. the gripping tale is authenticated by his painstaking research as he retraced rockefeller’s path through papua, interviewed locals, and pored through state archives to paint a realistic picture of the land and its people.
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it, advances, ducks, advances, pantomimes shooting an arrow. in a world without photography or television or recorded anything, the asmat have remained oral storytellers, expressive with their voices and bodies, often telling of the chopping of heads and shooting of arrows and driving home of spears. When Kokai talks about canoeing, he bends forward and spreads his arms wide, becomes a canoe gliding over the sea. once, he imitates a bat: he scrunches up, exposes his teeth, holds his hands as if he’s clinging, and he is the bat. i can see it hanging upside down in a tree. By day three, time begins to slip by faster, to have a rhythm. i make small friendships. Kokai, Ber, Sauer, Bif—all elders—always make a place for me and tell me stories. My timing is lucky. asmat villages are organized around clans, and each clan has its own men’s house, or jeu, often more than a hundred feet long. the men of Jisar, members of one of five local clans, are building a new one. in a clearing along the riverbank rises a sight from the Stone age. a foundation of poles supports the rectangular framework for the new longhouse, to which the walls and roof will soon be attached. From each of the poles looking out to the river gazes a carved face. it’s the first new jeu here in years, and celebrations will last until it is finished in three weeks. a circle of men with drums sits in the centre. around them, others sit and lie. an old man in the circle motions to me, pats the floor next to him. then, until the sun sets, and for many afternoons, i lose myself in tribal reverie. the men are decked out with dog teeth and boar tusks, cockatoo feathers sprouting from their hair and headbands, their faces painted ochre or black. the older men sport pig bones or shells in their septa. Sauer, the man i sit next to, is the kepala parang, the spiritual and cultural head of Jisar. he has the asmat high cheekbones and physique of raw muscle and bone and black skin, which is smeared with war paint. in the asmat creation myth, a man named Fumeripitsj drummed the asmat to life from carvings. Sauer and his jeu mates begin drumming themselves into existence, 200 beats a minute, and sing. Men dance and children dance, sweat pouring from them. other men blow horns, which sound like foghorns, and the floor of the jeu pulsates. they move toward the river, and more men appear. Women do, too, some in grass skirts, their knees flapping as they dance like cassowaries. they howl and yell, a wild free-for-all of unadulterated joy and abandon, of culture that stretches back beyond memory. i gulp, then well up in tears. it is powerful and beautiful and unfiltered; it is pure and rich and of earth and river and mud. MY Month, suddenly, is over. the boat arrives anytime. Just as suddenly, that idea—of leaving, that i have to leave—seems as strange as the idea of coming here in the first place. the hours passed so slowly at the start, but then i stopped noticing, everything a blur of heat and rain and smoke and drumming and sitting in stillness, the river always flowing, a metaphor in my mind for the slow but relentless passage of time. the sound of an engine approaches. Kokai’s son-in-law yells, “the boat!” the intimacy, the quiet i’d slowly built over the month, evaporates into chaos. villagers swarm from every direction, crowding into Kokai’s house to bid me farewell. Kokai’s wife brings out sago, and we eat and talk and laugh. then Kokai says, “You must give money to the jeu in Jisar.”
The Asmat people perform their traditional dance aboard canoes during an arts festival in Bali, Indonesia. Asmat canoes are easily identifiable with their white lime coating, red vertical stripes, and painted prow.
the vitals orientation papua is a province in indonesia, and the central part of the island of new Guinea. the country of papua new Guinea lies to its east, and west papua province to the west. jayapura is the capital city. though part of the same country, the distance between jakarta and jayapura is 3,780 km and a non-stop flight takes about 5.5 hours. timika in southwest papua (3,290 km/about 6 hr flight from Jakarta) is the closest airport to access the Asmat region. getting There travelling from india to jakarta requires a layover in kuala lumpur, singapore, or bangkok. Once in indonesia, visitors can reach papua, by taking a domestic flight to the city of jayapura, regarded as a gateway to more remote places. to reach Agats, fly to timika, the closest airport serviced by Garuda indonesia airlines. from here, ferry services, smaller planes and boats can take visitors to their final destination. Visa indian travellers can avail of indonesia’s visa-on-arrival at all major international airports. the visa is valid for up to 30 days and costs $25/`1,682. Travel permit All foreign travellers to papua need a travel permit to go to the various islands. these can be procured from local police stations at either jayapura or sorong on showing your passport. they are free of charge, although a tip helps.
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i grab 300,000 rupiah—about $25—and Kokai, Wilem the boatman, and i, trailed by a throng, walk to Jisar. Sauer and other men are there, fires glowing in the now finished structure. i hand Sauer the money. the men start a powerful chant, punctuated by grunts and shrieks. Sauer says i’m welcome to return anytime. i speak as eloquently as i can in indonesian, thanking them for their warm welcome, for always making me feel at home, for sharing their sago. We all shake hands, leathery and warm, and i take my last breath of the jeu, rich with the smell of bodies and smoke. i’d been so alone when i got here, the most alone i had ever been. now i’m not. i’m not even sure when that happened. We return to Kokai’s, and it happens so fast. Men grab my bags and throw them in the boat. “photo,” i yell, “of the family!” Kokai and his brood stand with me as someone snaps us with my cellphone. then Kokai takes my hand, says “adik” (younger brother), rubs my hand along his cheek. it is one moment, one word, one action. one moment in a month of living in a primitive village in the middle of a jungle. But that’s what life is, really, a collection of tiny slices of grace, love, and generosity that is the stuff of happiness. i arrived, alone and nervous, in a remote papuan village to the inscrutable glare of wooden faces, and am leaving a month later with a brother. Kokai’s gesture, i think, is nothing short of benediction.
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from delhi Holy ghats and cool cafés in the temple town of Pushkar
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stay Charming colonial interiors and meals fit for kings in Shimla
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stay An antidote to urban maladies at a forest lodge in Tadoba reserve
Blue Lotus Land
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round november each year, the tiny town of pushkar plays host to the world’s largest camel fair, drawing floods of traders and tourists. once the crowds leave and the dust settles, pushkar’s holy lake and surrounding temples continue to attract both hindu pilgrims and backpackers. this haven of drifting incense and trance music in the aravallis is an important site for hinduism. pushkar got its name from a legend that narrates how a sacred blue lotus—in Sanskrit, pushkar—fell on this spot and gave birth to this lake, marking the spot where Brahma performed a mahayagna ritual. at the centre of the town is the 14th-century Jagatpita Shri Brahma temple, which is believed to have existed here in some form for the last 2,000 years.
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around the lake are numerous hindu temples. visitors weave their way past camel carts and cows, sadhus and new-agers in search of nirvana and nutella pancakes. Beyond the camel fair, there’s plenty to see here, and loads of ways to relax.
FIVE WAYS TO EXPLORE Desert rose
although pushkar’s name comes from the blue lotus, the countryside around the town is devoted to another beautiful flower—the rose. a carpet of rose fields washes the area with rich colour for most of the year, but is particularly vibrant during the time of the new harvest, from March to april. it’s a short,
Pushkar Lake with 52 ghats and over 500 temples is at the epicentre of all social, religious, and tourist activities in the small desert town.
lUcAs vAllecIllos/AGe foTosTocK/dInodIA
Between Hinduism and Hippies, pusHkar Has grown into a spiritual and cultural melting pot | By AMBIKA GUPTA
ten-minute walk from the Gurudwara Singh Sabha in pushkar to the rose fields in the Nalla locality. there are numerous nurseries on the outskirts of the town, and a thriving cottage industry of rose products. visit a plant to watch the fascinating process by which gulab jal, or rosewater, is produced through old-fashioned distillation processes that involve large brass cauldrons. the bulky apparatuses bring to mind chemistry diagrams from school textbooks (Kamla Nursery & Farm, Shiv Mandir, Nagaur Road, Banseli, 98291 85284, www.singodiaproducts. in). visitors can also buy freshly prepared gulkand rose candy (`80/kg), gulab jal (`150/litre), and gulab sharbat (`75/750ml), a rose petal drink favoured for its cooling properties. Holy Water
pushkar has grown around the banks of the lake, which is hemmed in by 52 ghats with flights of steps descending to the water. each ghat is believed to possess special powers: Bathing at Naga Kund is said to bestow fertility, the water of Kapil Vyapi Kund is believed to cure leprosy, and roop tirth gives beauty and charm. varah, Brahma, and Gau are the other important ghats. however, as evening sets in, people
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Pushkar is known for its temples and rose farms. Distilleries still make rose water (gulab jal) the old fashioned way in large brass cauldrons (top left); The numerous temples (right) in the town’s lanes and by-lanes are a point of congregation for locals. Trinkets (bottom left) with religious motifs are the top selling souvenirs.
automatically gravitate towards serene Jaipur Ghat. Getting there requires circumventing some stubborn cows and searching hard to find a spot devoid of pigeon droppings. But having succeeded, nothing compares with the tranquillity of sitting on the steps of this ghat to watch the sun sink in the golden lake, while listening to the mournful strain of an iktara. around 6.30 p.m., the music is drowned by a chorus of bells as the evening aarti begins in the temples surrounding the ghat. Join devotees in their circumambulation of the lake, on a serene and scenic walk through all the ghats, over a footbridge, and past trademark, blue-painted houses. local custom dictates that visitors walk barefoot on certain stretches, so keep an eye out for signboards that instruct you to remove your shoes. stairWay to HeaVeN
Being a place of religious pilgrimage, pushkar’s restaurants do not serve alcohol or non-vegetarian food. Most of the fare available here is inspired and easy on the pocket. al fresco and garden restaurants dish out an eclectic selection of world cuisines, from italian to tibetan. the skyline is dotted with rooftop cafés with psychedelic names like Moon Dance and pink Floyd.
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spiritual Holiday
f ro m D e l hi
the third eye, run by an israeli woman and her indian husband has israeli dishes on the menu (Jamni Kund Road, 0145-2772614, 94146 67267, meal for two `550), and little italy Pizzeria nearby is the best place for thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas (Panch Kund Road, pizzas from `250). any visitor to pushkar inevitably ends up at sunset Café. its veranda, dotted with cane chairs and framed by pink bougainvillea, looks out on an uninterrupted stretch of the lakefront (Jaipur Ghat; meal for two `600). Devour pockets of ravioli while soaking in a shimmering gold sunset, and sipping on a ginger lemon honey drink, a piping hot brew guaranteed to warm your insides. For local flavour, sample kadi-tikkad or dal-batichurma at Vaishnav Bhojanalaya (Nagaur road; `90 per plate). pushkar is also famous for its sweet and tender malpua, or fried pancake, which is best eaten straight out of the syrup at sarveshwar Mishthan Bhandar (in front of Gau Ghat, Halwai Gali; `20 for 2 pieces). sPeCially for you
in pushkar, visitors can easily find something “special” to eat, but do so at your own risk. For here “special” is a euphemism for “laced with bhang,” (edible cannabis) and a wide variety of “special” dishes are on offer, from curry to lassi—basically anything you fancy with a little seasoning. the special lassi at Moon Dance Café is said to be especially divine (near New Rangji Temple, Market Road; `120). Be sure to specify whether you want it strong or light. at funky Monkey Café, down a
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PUShKAR, RAjASThAn
Jaipur
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green yogurt drink while you watch the activity of this bustling town. this tiny hole-in-the-wall spot also has a wide selection of beverages, including coffees and mango lassi (Mahadev Chowk, Choti Basti, near SBBJ Bank; mango lassi `140).
Pushkar
BauBles aND tHreaDs All the ghats have legends around them. Bathing at some is believed to provide physical and spiritual benefit, while others offer perfect vantage points to enjoy a sunset. Facing page: Catering to international travellers, a number of Pushkar’s cafés, with names like Euphoria, Mango Tree, and The Funky Monkey, have a variety of cuisines on their menu.
Besides typical touristy souvenirs like patchwork jholas, leather-bound notebooks, and colourful jootis, pushkar is the place to pick up quirky silver jewellery, and ornamental rampuri daggers. Most silver jewellery shops double as workshops, and the craftsmen there are happy to fashion bespoke pieces. they are experts at bending and twisting silver wire into unique patterns, and will experiment to create edgy ear cuffs, crescent moon earrings, a pendant that spells initials, or geometric-pattern rings. Browse through the selection in the row of cubbyhole shops that line the street from new rangji temple to Jaipur Ghat (earrings from `80). a small shop adjacent to the entrance to the tourist office has an exotic collection of brass jewellery, such as anklets and armlets, and offers private lessons in basic jewellery designing. the influx of foreigners has given rise to a thriving market for breezy garments in light and breathable fabrics, which are great to beat the desert heat. in pushkar’s narrow lanes, every other shop makes and sells western outfits in striking rajasthani prints, and garments that can be altered to fit. headbands, harem pants, and t-shirts hand painted with trippy images of goblins, toadstools and dancing Shivas abound.
rAGA jose fUsTe/PrIsMA/dInodIA
Short Breaks |
■ rAjAsThAn
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Pushkar is a hill station in the Ajmer district of rajasthan, about 14 km/30 minutes northwest of Ajmer town. It is 403 km/7.5 hr southwest of delhi and 145 km/2.5 hr southwest of jaipur.
GettiNG tHere
The closest airport is in jaipur, and the nearest major railway station is Ajmer junction, which connects to the Pushkar Terminus railway station. convenient local buses run every half hour between Pushkar and Ajmer’s bus stands.
GettiNG arouND
The only way to explore all the nooks and crannies of this tiny town is on foot, unless you fancy a camel cart ride. Bikes and scooters can also be hired (from `350/day; security deposit of about `1,000 may be required) from shops near the Gurudwara singh sabha (near bus stand).
stay
the third eye run by an Indian and Israeli couple, this place has simple rooms but a relaxing and laid-back vibe. Its garden restaurant is a popular backpacker haunt (Jamni Kund Road; 0145-2772614; pushkar3rdeye@gmail. com; doubles from `900). inn seventh Heaven This century-old haveli has spotlessly clean, spacious, and comfortable rooms gathered around a pretty white courtyard festooned with creepers and trailing vines (Mishroo ka Mohalla, next to Mali ka Mandir, Choti Basti; 0145-5105455; www.inn-seventh-heaven.com; doubles from `1,200). Hotel Pushkar Palace located on the edge of Pushkar lake at jaipur Ghat, this stately heritage property offers stunning, panoramic views of the town (Jaipur Ghat, near Pushkar Lake, Choti Basti; 0145-2772001; hotelpushkarpalace.com; doubles from `7,000).
uNique exPerieNCe
camel safaris are a thrilling way to explore rural rajasthan. from Pushkar, embark on a journey in a private caravan, accompanied by a camel cart loaded with conveniences. The rigorous day-long rides break for meals that are cooked on an open fire. The safari routes meander through the desert, passing small settlements on the way, and camping under the stars at night. There are short, three-day safaris and longer ones for a week or ten days that cost about `1,500 a day. There are also 3-hour sunset safaris (` 550) and half-day safaris (`1,000). numerous operators in Pushkar offer these safaris and it is best to book one based on a recommendation from your hotel. april 2016 | national GeoGraphic traveller inDia
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sunny side up Charming Colonial interiorS and mealS fit for kingS | By lalita iyer
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sunnymead Bed & Breakfast
the vitals Getting there sunnymead is located just outside shimla. a unique way to get here is aboard a heritage mountain railway which runs on a scenic route from Kalka to shimla. From Chandigarh, shimla is a 4-hour drive (taxi around `2,500). accommodation sunnymead Bed & Breakfast has four rooms with fireplaces. Meals are served in the dining room or in the garden. Madhavi sits with guests for all meals, and supervises service. although she is a great hostess, meal times are not conducive to privacy or quiet. (Bookings at sunnymeadshimla@ gmail.com; 01772801436; doubles `6,000, including breakfast; dinner `900 per head per meal.)
LaLita iyer
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ownhill from cart road, on the outskirts of Shimla, Sunnymead Bed & Breakfast is a heritage homestay with a rambling english garden. it is ablaze with dahlias, geraniums, lilies, red hot pokers, alstroemerias, irises, azaleas, camellias, begonias and other flowers i don’t know. one of the older surviving residences of Shimla, this well hidden, charming property is just a short walk along a hilly path off the main road. Madhavi Bhatia is Sunnymead’s gregarious owner, and the chief guardian and curator of the rare flowers around. She lives here with three dogs, two cats, an assistant-cum-gardener, Motilal, and Madhu, the chief house help and creator of wonderful food. Madhavi’s animals love to welcome visitors, which made it extra special for me and my six-year-old son. But if you are not an animal lover, think twice.
the homestay has colonial-style four-poster beds and flamboyant curtains; it’s where family treasures blend with the contemporary. our room had a balcony overlooking the valley and the al fresco dining area, where guests are served gastronomic bonanzas. the cosy cottage smells of old times, and reminded me of grandparents and warm, fuzzy things. the house itself is constructed in the traditional Dhajji–Dewari method, a building technique practised mainly in the mountains. it involves filling light timber frames with stones and soil to create earthquakeresistant structures. Walking is an intrinsic part of life at Sunnymead, so bring proper walking shoes (and rain gear). taxis are available on call, but they can be expensive. We wandered on foot to Shimla’s famous Mall road, through bazaars, the army cantonment, stopping for chaat and doughnuts at city point bakery. on day two, we drove to taradevi, a pretty hill on the outskirts of Shimla. Skipping the temple atop the hill, we walked down a jungle path lined with oak and pine trees and rhododendron. after losing and finding our way several times we finally made it to taradevi Station, just in time to catch the Kalka-Shimla mountain train. the ride turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip. on our walk back home, i stopped at the quaint cecil restaurant for a beer, while the boy swayed to live piano. When we returned to Sunnymead we were treated to cake. a whole strawberry torte baked by Madhavi. My son is now putty for life. the cake was the pièce de résistance to a fine meal of pasta with wild mushroom and asparagus, a spinach quiche, and a delicately flavoured salad of greens picked from the garden.
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Wild Remedies At A forest lodge in tAdobA, An Antidote to the mAlAdies of the urbAn jungle | By neha sumitRan
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ithin 30 minutes of entering the Bamboo Forest Safari lodge, we have seen three tigers. there’s a painted portrait of the big cat by the reception, a miniature brass sculpture on the door to my villa, and a gorgeous, life-size mural of Shere Khan in my bathroom, just above the wooden treasure chest that holds the hand towels, face towels, and fluffy full-body towels. a few feet from the chest in the spacious bathroom, is a glass door that leads to an al fresco porch with a bathtub surrounded by bamboo plants. it’s the perfect place to unwind after a dusty evening safari. Better still, the tub is large enough for two. like our room, the rest of the Bamboo Forest Safari lodge is designed to deliver a luxurious and immersive experience of the outdoors. the resort has a mix of villas, chalets, and rooms, and is a 10-minute drive from
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the Korala Gate of tadoba-andhari tiger reserve, spread over 1,700 square kilometres in eastern Maharashtra. the tiger is the star attraction of the national park, and of the lodge. there are stripes everywhere: on the upholstery, on the covers of photo books in the library, even on the paved paths that connect the villas in the lodge. Breakfast at the lodge is served on an outdoor deck with a view of the village lake and its many inhabitants— kingfishers, cormorants, egrets— swooping in and out of the water. Buffet lunches are laid out in the handsome dining room, which has a vibrant wall mural of leopards, sambar, and langurs. at tea time, guests are encouraged to go up to the machan, which has sweeping views of the lake, cotton fields, and villages nearby. Keen to see the animals in the flesh, we rose early on Saturday for the morning safari, with our guide akshay, the resort’s chirpy naturalist
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photo courtesy: BAMBoo FoReST SAFARI LodGe (cottages), NehA SuMITRAN (bird)
the Bamboo Forest safari lodge (top) combines the thrills of a safari holiday with the luxuries of a boutique hotel. it is a 10-minute drive from tadoba-andhari tiger Reserve in maharashtra, home to big cats like the tiger and leopard, and smaller creatures like the bee-eater bird (bottom).
■ m aharas ht ra encounter the star of tadoba: Maya the tigress and her three cubs rolling around like puppies. the animal sightings were thrilling, of course, but just being in the forest, far from the city’s blaring horns, Whatsapp notifications, and decisions about bills, meals, and meetings, was rejuvenating. We returned to the resort ravenous and beaming from the morning’s experience. Meals at the Bamboo Forest Safari lodge are rather elaborate buffet spreads, with lots of north indian fare. the kitchen serves up an especially good jungli maas (mutton cooked in red chillies and ghee) and a variety of crisp, tandoori parathas, with generous lashings of butter. lunch is generally the heaviest, designed to ensure that guests nap for a while after, which is exactly what we did. We woke up in time for a long soak in the tub, and spent the rest of the evening stargazing while lying on our backs on the grassy porch of our villa. By early Sunday evening, when we had to leave to catch our flight back to Mumbai, we were relaxed, refreshed, and ready to take on the urban jungle we call home.
The Bamboo Forest Safari Lodge
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Mumbai
Getting There The Bamboo Forest Safari Lodge is 7 km/10 min from the Kolara Gate of Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve in eastern Maharashtra. It is 115 km/2 hr from Nagpur, which has the closest airport. Mumbai is a 90min flight from Nagpur. The closest railway station is Warora, 40 km/1 hr by road. Accommodation The Bamboo Forest Safari Lodge has lakeside villas ideal for couples, and chalets with connecting rooms that are suited to families with children. The rooms in the chalet can be individually reserved. All accommodation is luxurious. The lakeside villa has a four-poster bed, and a porch. The roomy bathroom has a rain-shower cubicle (great for a hot, post-safari shower), a counter of Kama bath products, and an open-to-sky bathtub. The Bamboo Forest Safari Lodge does not serve alcohol. (www. bambooforest.in; doubles from 20,000, including all meals; safari costs extra.) Between 30 June-30 Sept (monsoon), safaris run only when weather conditions permit. most guests spend their mornings on safaris, and their evenings discussing tiger (top right) and deer (top left) sightings at the resort’s outdoor restaurant (bottom) over meals of indulgent north indian fare.
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photo courtesy: BAMBoo FoReST SAFARI LodGe (restaurant), NehA SuMITRAN (tigets & deers)
from Bengaluru. Wrapped snugly in blankets in our souped-up safari jeep, we watched shades of pink creep into the inky sky, and the forests of tadoba slowly come to life. Unlike jungles along the Western Ghats, tadoba barely has any green in the months preceding the monsoon. We drove past swathes of platinum-blonde grass on mud tracks the colour of rust, scanning the bamboo thickets on either side for pug marks, birds, and other animals. Within the first hour, we saw a handsome barasingha male, a sloth bear digging into a termite hill, and a peacock trying (and failing) to woo two unimpressed peahens by a waterbody. For breakfast, we parked near a forest guest house in the national park, in the raucous company of jungle crows that seemed to have much to chatter about. in jeeps around us, families sipped from juice boxes, munched on sandwiches, and examined the photos they’d taken on their cameras. everybody was caked in dust, just a little bit sweaty (the sun is fierce after 9 a.m.), and looked as happy as the squirrels running up and down the trees. the following day, we were lucky enough to
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dreams do come true
CONTEST
Dharmika TanDon
froM MUMBAI
wON a Trip fOr TwO TO SwiTzErlaNd THE PRIZE 2 return tickets to Zurich from Delhi/Mumbai, courtesy Swiss International Airlines 3 nights stay in a hotel on twin sharing basis, including breakfast, courtesy Switzerland Tourism 2 eight-day first class Swiss Travel Passes, courtesy Swiss Travel System* *Detailed terms and conditions available at: www.natgeotraveller.in/magazine/month/swiss-special/swiss-contest
© d-maps.com
Inspire |
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Finland
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The AlcázAr Seville, Spain
the Alcázar of seville was built in the tenth century after the moorish invasion, as a royal palace for the muslim governor. over centuries, it has been the residence of several spanish kings who brought to it their own touches. even today the royal family lives on its upper floors. the result of the various influences is a large complex that is a symphony of artistic styles from the renaissance to the neoclassical eras. but primarily, it is the islamic architectural style of the mudéjars that shines forth in this unesco World Heritage site. one of the most striking sections of the Alcázar is the 12th-century salón de embajadores or Hall of Ambassadors. this was a place for kings to receive and seat visitors, and a venue for public events and state affairs. the hall’s high arches and tiled walls showcase its moorish origins, and the entrance still has its 14th-century wooden doors. but its grandest feature is a carved wooden dome that was added in 1427. the opulent cedar wood cupola is etched with stars, circles, and various other patterns, all symbolising the infinite universe. the carvings are gilded, giving the dome a burnished gold colour that gave rise to its alternate name, the sala de la media naranja or Hall of the Half orange. there is a fee of €9.50/`715 to visit the Alcázar. —Rumela Basu
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DilwArA Temples Mount abu, RajaSthan
the simple exteriors of the dilwara temples near mount Abu, rajasthan, belie their rich and intricate interiors. built between the 11th and 13th centuries, each of the five Jain temples is dedicated to a different tirthankar of the Jain faith. the simple black-andwhite marble structures were constructed using little or no mortar. However, stepping inside is like walking into an artwork. every inch of the ceiling is covered in minute, detailed carvings of human and nature motifs. symbols of flora and fauna intertwine with sculptures of gods and scenes of everyday life. the ceiling of one temple is decorated with patterns of petals, flowers, lotus buds, and murals depicting scenes from indian mythology, while another has nine assorted delicately carved ceiling sections with intricate marble work. particularly well known are the central dome of the Vimal Vasahi temple, which is supported by 12 engraved pillars, and the central sculpted pendant in the dome of the luna Vasahi temple that depicts about 72 figures of tirthankars. the other three are the pithalhar, parshvanath, and mahavir swami temples. —Rumela Basu
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the libraries at the 12thcentury strahov monastery in prague contain nearly 60,000 religious and philosophical texts. yet oddly enough, the books take a backseat to the libraries’ painted ceilings which are baroque masterpieces. the high, curved ceilings of the theological and philosophical Halls, linked by a passage, are decorated with frescoes and stucco work. built in 1679, the theological Hall features high shelves with gilded, carved wooden decorations above. its ceiling was later decorated with frescoes and paintings based on biblical quotes and scenes. constructed in the 18th century, the philosophical Hall followed suit with a monumental ceiling fresco that took six months to complete. it depicts developments in science and religion and also shows a timeline of the greek civilisation and teachings of its great philosophers. the large hall has high bookcases that are only accessible via an elevated gallery and hidden spiral staircases. travellers can visit the monastery and explore its grounds enjoying scenic views of prague’s lesser town. there is a fee of czk100/`276 to visit the libraries and see the ceilings. —Rumela Basu
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we know hong Kong as one of the world’s most famous harbours, a glittering trade port that marks the gateway to modern China. But this dazzling metropolis offers so much more—especially the opportunity to indulge in some wholesome family fun | By Kamala thiagarajan ADveNtUre BY the OCeAN
“Her name is Jia Jia and the boy is An An,” a little girl announces with wide-eyed glee, pointing at two Giant Pandas as if she were introducing her new best friends. She watches transfixed as they lumber over boulders and branches. The panda enclosure is perhaps the quietest
spot at Ocean Park in Aberdeen, Southern District, Hong Kong, one of the world’s most beautiful marine theme parks. A vibrant amalgamation of carnival atmosphere and wildlife sanctuary, the Park overlooks picturesque Aberdeen harbour. Sampans, or traditional fishing boats, jostle in the water that is lined by sleek skyscrapers.
A DAY OF SAND AND SUrF IN thIS COSMOpOLItAN CItY IS A treAt FOr KIDS The amazement at Ocean Park begins the minute you enter, with the world’s secondlongest escalator. At a length of 738 feet, the escalator has a sheer vertical rise of 377 feet. Navigating the park by sleek cable cars is fun too. Every day, the 1.5-kilometre-long cable car system plies through the park. The journey lasts only eight minutes, but affords breathtaking views of the sparkling waters of the South China Sea. The excitement continues with a host of amusement park rides, including Ferris wheels, merry-gorounds, and a sprawling roller coaster ideal for thrill seekers.
ANIMAL KINGDOM
The biggest draw of Ocean Park is undoubtedly its sprawling marine facility. Home to around 5,000 fish from over 400 species, it’s the ideal place to spot over a hundred sharks and rays, such as the sawfish with its saw-like rostrum and the zebra shark with yellowish spots and stripes all over its body. Visitors can also admire over 1,000 beautiful sea jellies in the park’s underwater garden. The Ocean Theatre features shows by performing dolphins, otters, and sea lions. As part of its Amazing Asian Animals exhibit, it also houses the park’s red pandas, who provide a little oasis of calm in the action of the rest of the park, even as they enjoy their playtime. Don’t miss the unique Polar Adventure in the Summit area of the park, which showcases several species of penguins, walruses, and seals, and provides children with information on the dangers these animals face due
to global warming. And don’t forget to get a souvenir of a watercolour portrait by a local artist before leaving.
A rIDe wIth A vIew
The Peak Tram offers visitors another type of ride—up to Victoria Peak, with its exciting shopping and dining options. The exhilarating ride is the perfect antidote to the bustle of the city, and is packed with heart-stopping panoramic views. The tram, which climbs 1,300 feet, is startlingly steep in some places, as it swings passengers past fancy apartments, bamboo stands, wild flowers, and thick green foliage. The city appears as an impossibly futuristic inhabitation, newly sprung from a wild jungle. For Hong Kong’s earliest residents, the Peak used to be a retreat from the scorching summer heat, and you too can explore this picturesque hillock with its relaxing restaurants and boutiques.
ChILD-FrIeNDLY eXCUrSIONS
Along the Aberdeen Harbour promenade are many ferry points, and children love sightseeing on the sampan boats here. Some of these traditional barges are equipped with the latest in washing machines and satellite dishes! Nearby Repulse Bay is a popular local beach: a spacious, sandy crescent backed by rolling green hills on one side and the cityscape on the other. A day of sand and surf in such a cosmopolitan city is indeed a rarity that everyone, especially kids, will enjoy. But if you want to get out of the heat, there’s always ice skating at Hong Kong’s
world-class indoor rinks. Some of the best rinks are located in shopping malls; Ice Palace at Cityplaza, Glacier at Festival Walk, and Sky Rink at the Dragon Centre are favourites. Even if your children don’t usually love shopping, they will still be entranced by the sheer colour and variety of Hong Kong’s street markets. The flower market at Mong Kok is stunning, with enticing bouquets of wildflowers and fragrant blossoms. It has an incredible range of exotic cacti as well. Don’t miss strolling through the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden nearby, where you’ll be greeted by the melody of hundreds of birds, warbling in unison. The Chinese mosaic tiles and decorative mini-birdcages available here make for intriguing souvenirs. Cap off the day with the HK Symphony of Lights, the world’s largest light and sound show (certified by the Guinness Book of World Records). The show takes place for 13 minutes every night, and involves beams of laser light bounding around 44 illuminated skyscrapers on either side of the glamorous Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong and Kowloon.
NeeD tO KNOw
With its rather temperate climate, Hong Kong remains a popular destination to visit all year round. It’s fuss free too. Indian nationals can enter Hong Kong for a period of up to two weeks without a visa. However, you’ll need a valid passport, and a visa is required if your stay extends beyond 14 days. See www.discoverhongkong.com for exciting offers.
Strange
Planet S n i p p e tS f ro m ou r faSc i n at i n g wo r l d
A HANDFUL OF PRIMATE South american marmosets are the
NATURAL FILTERS the saiga antelope found in regions in and
smallest monkeys in the world growing as big as an adult’s hand and weighing around 100 grams. they love to feed on tree sap. Spot them natives of the northeast coast of Brazil, these hyperactive primates can be seen in the wild in atlantic forest parks and reserves such as the caratinga reserve, minas gerais and tijuca national park. HEAD OF THORNS native to australia, the spike-covered thorny devil has an appendage on the back of its neck known as a false head. when threatened, the lizard hides its real head between its forelimbs, exposing only the thorny appendage to predators. Spot them they inhabit the arid australian outback and the southwest coast of the country, but being only 4-6 inches long, can be very difficult to spot. Keep your eyes open for shallow burrows and moving earth-coloured spikes.
around mongolia has a flexible, humped nose that can inflate, making it possible for the animal to warm the air it breathes during winter, and breathe clean air in the dry summer. Spot them they once roamed the steppes of mongolia and Kazakhstan in large numbers. now, a small population remains in protection and can be spotted at the irgiz-torgaj and altynemel national reserves in Kazakhstan. ANIMAL JIGSAW the okapi is a central african herbivorous mammal that resembles a horse or deer, has the stripes of a zebra, but is most closely related to the giraffe. Spot them the uneSco world Heritage listed okapi wildlife reserve in congo is the best place in the world to see them in the wild. or visit the copenhagen or london Zoos for a rendezvous. — By Rumela Basu
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Karl-HeinZ weicHert/premium/dinodia
Common marmoset in Brazil, South America.