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ROMAN OPULENCE Bedecked in jewels and gems of absolute splendour, the new woman in red, by Bulgari epitomizes the perfect balance between baroque richness and sleek modernity. BULGARI - The Barocko High Jewellery Collection.

ROMAN OPULENCE Bedecked in jewels and gems of absolute splendour, the new woman in red, by Bulgari epitomizes the perfect balance between baroque richness and sleek modernity. BULGARI - The Barocko High Jewellery Collection.

Unique Gems _________________________________________ bulgari

BAROQUE EXTRAVAGANCE

THE COLOUR WONDER NECKLACE SET WITH A RAINBOW OF GEMSTONES AND DIAMONDS. The sophisticated new Bulgari High Jewellery collection, “Barocko”, is inspired by the sumptuous Roman Baroque of the 17th century and by some of its most iconic monuments, a very successful, stylistic exercise conceived by Lucia Silvestri, the Creative Director of the Maison. Rome, with its Golden Century timeless masterpieces, is the point of reference, of departure and always of arrival in inspiring such unique jewels.

Ornate details, swirls, unexpected games of light, the use of strong colours, either bright or sometimes more dense and dark, define a collection where the brand’s DNA expresses itself best, thanks to very refined techniques, extraordinary gemstones often mixed in contrast and by generous cabochon cuts, chosen with the taste for exuberance. The magnificent .

“Colour Wonder” necklace in pink gold features a garland of large oval-cut gems in shocking colours, expertly combined: a central radiant rubellite duets with a deep violet amethyst and a bright acid green peridot, a sunny yellow citrine has on its opposite side an acquamarine of the best crystalline blue. This intoxicating rainbow of gems is interspersed by elegant, gently shaped cartouches set with diamonds, a detail taken up in smaller size on the sides and back of the necklace at regular intervals, between amethyst and rubellite boules studded with tiny diamonds. A striking sense of colour, a precious opulence, the gemstones chosen with passion and refined extravagance, along with very accurate workmanship, define a truly exceptional Bulgari collection. Like Rome, Beauty is eternal.

www.bulgari.com

Adriano Davoli

BULGARI IS BA-ROCK! For Bulgari, the border line between the Rock and the Baroque is very subtle. Sapphires and diamonds can go very well with a white T-shirt, dramatic fishnet gloves and a very seductive black patent leather skirt. For contemporary rockstars.

BULGARI - The Barocko High Jewellery Collection.

Unique Gems _________________________________________ bulgari

BLUE LACE

THE SAPPHIRE LACE NECKLACE SET WITH DIAMONDS, SRI LANKAN and BURMESE SAPPHIRES. The extremely refined Sapphire Lace necklace reminds the rich ruff collars in precious Flemish lace that were very fashionable in the Baroque period, so often painted by Rubens to adorn the décolletés of his noble courtesans. Part of Bulgari’s recent Barocko collection, it recreates this elegant effect thanks to modular lacy elements, wavy and sinuous, decreasing in size toward the nape, entirely set with round and baguette-cut diamonds, the latter to gently caress the base of the neckline.

The central section of the jewel is punctuated by bright circular-cut sapphires from Sri Lanka, which convey the gaze back to the centre of the necklace where triumphs, as a true star, an important Burmese oval sapphire well exceeding 28 carats, of the most perfect and intense royal blue. A masterpiece of High Jewellery where Bulgari best expresses all its most sophisticated creativity.

Adriano Davoli

www.bulgari.com

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his high jewellery collection has been conceived as an ideal journey toward these enchanted islands, strolling around their magnificent gardens idealized by the use of colourful gemstones, set on very sophisticated jewels."

Precious Escape

Text By Adriano Davoli

M

ellerio, the oldest Maison Joaillière in the world, rediscovers the ancient charm of the Lake Maggiore and the romantic beauty of the Borromean islands, not far from the places where it all began at the beginning of the 16th century, before the founder of the family moved to Paris in search of a more lucky future. Appreciated by the Lombard community of the French capital, the members of the Mellerio family received various royal privileges in 1613 directly from Queen Maria dé Medici, renewed by each subsequent King of France and maintained until the reign of Louis XVI. Today, Laure-Isabelle Mellerio, President and Artistic Director of the Maison, creating these refined new jewels almost makes a journey back to the origin of the family and dedicates this collection to the Isola Madre, Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori, the three little paradises off the coast of the lake, to their secret, flowery and arboreal world. The striking colours that adorns the sumptuous gardens of the late Renaissance period of this unique Arcadia have inspired the use of gemstones such as pink and mauve sapphires, bright-green tsavorites and golden spessartite garnets, all expertly set on pink gold in refined corded and perlé workmanships. Discreet touches in little diamonds underline the delicate nuances of the stones, as if to mimic the crystalline light and the reflections of the sun among the rich vegetation of these places pervaded by magic. The demi-parure Giardino is composed of an elegant choker which is well reminiscent of those “à carcan” of baroque and then eighteenth century tradition. A soft interweaving of shiny pink gold threads, almost mimicking the gentle rolling of the lake waves, is centrally enhanced by a fourleaf clover motif suggesting the precious parterres in ancient roses, refined flowers and rare orchids, hold in place by a cartouche paved with diamonds

The GIARDINO SET - Flowery and ornate, this very feminine demi-parure is a clever combination of blue-green tourmalines, pink sapphires, tsavorite and spessartite garnets, outlined by diamonds, on pink gold. The Isola Madre Collection, by Mellerio.

moralmoda Magazine high jewellery

All images courtesy of Mellerio

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he bottle green plique-Ă -jour enamel outlines the other stones with a four-petals detail, in a successful contrast of materials and reflections, with the central plaque that detaches, to be worn separately as a brooch. A pair of elegant pendant earrings incorporates the arabesque and the rosette of the necklace in a clever play of voids, punctuated by the same fantasy of gems played in contrast and underlined thanks to oval, round and pear-shaped cuts. Profiled with gentle diamond lines, these earrings impress with their decisive allure, perfect craftsmanship and bright, yet refined colour palette. Important oval-cut bluegreen tourmalines dominate the central motif of the choker and the dangling terminals of the earrings. The parure Millefiora includes a bombĂŠ cocktail ring centrally set with an important pink sapphire, almost like a water lily floating in the centre of the many ponds on the Isola Madre, surrounded by a foliage of green garnets and by orange spessartites. Delicate volutes in diamonds caress the coloured stones, to mimic the ornate box hedges that define the garden paths. A pair of dramatic long earrings set with round, marquise and pear-shaped gems in the same recurring colours resembles the elegant and spiky stone obelisks that dot the corners of the terraced gardens on the Isola Bella. These elegant chandelier earrings also recall the tall, slender cypresses that decorate the gardens on the islands, an idea well suggested by the use of the marquise-cuts in green and warm hues, arranged as if to mimic their dense foliage at sunset.

The gems are delicately set thanks to a very accurate processing of gold beading. Everything in this very sophisticated collection by Mellerio is light, lively, definitely feminine, enhancing the craftsmanship of a Maison that, with over 400 years of its history and heritage is certainly admired as one of the most important of the French High Jewelry.

Adriano Davoli

The MILLEFIORA SET – Gemstones in warm hues obtained with the use of pink sapphires, green tourmalines and spessartite garnets, with diamond details on pink gold, mimic the lights in the gardens at sunset. The Isola Bella Collection by Mellerio.

www.mellerio.fr

moralmoda Magazine high jewellery

Image courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels. Photography: Anuschka Blommers & Niels Schumm. Art Direction: Gaspard Yurkievich & Guido Voss.

Unique Gems _______________________ van cleef & arpels

GREEN DEPTHS

THE MERVEILLE D'éMERAUDES necklace set with Colombian emeralds and diamonds.

Five spectacular pear-shaped old mine Colombian emeralds, selected with the absolute gemstones expertise that has always characterized the Maison’s research for excellence, are the absolute protagonists of the “Merveille d’Émeraudes” superb necklace recently created in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels. This spectacular new jewel draws its inspiration from an iconic Art Deco necklace conceived by the Maison in 1929 and later purchased for the elegant Princess Faiza of Egypt, sister to King Farouk and a loyal client at 22, Place Vendôme. Now part of the prestigious Van Cleef & Arpels’ historic collection, this vintage masterpiece features ten pear-shaped cabochon emeralds of paramount splendour. The new interpretation of the necklace is defined by a geometric frieze of interlocking motifs paved with round, baguette and trapeze-cut diamonds, on platinum, holding the five large pear-shaped emeralds of ...

the deepest velvety green, so typical of the most beautiful specimens that Colombia can offer. On the back of this modern marvel, a pendant outlining the nape is mounted with a motif of tapered baguettes, to hold three pear shaped diamonds of the best colour and clarity. The emeralds are detachable and even wearable suspended from an elegant pair of coordinated pendant earring paved with round and baguette-cut diamonds. As typical for the best Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewelry creations, the necklace offers different and unprecedented possibilities of wearing. The five main stones totalizing 70.40 carats, are like authentic green jungles, by impenetrable, bewitching and profound “jardins”, the characteristic internal inclusions that any emerald presents, the reason why they appear so alluring, fascinating, truly unique.......

Adriano Davoli

www.vancleefarpels.com

Unique Gems _________________________________________ PIAGET

of

LIGHT

Image courtesy of Piaget"

WINGS

the CAPTIVATING WINGS toi et moi ring in diamonds and ruby.

Piaget enchants with its new High Jewellery collection, where precious metals and rarer gems of vibrant colour also combine with elegant iridescent feathers, defining wing motifs of great refinements. Almost mimicking those of the mysterious birds of paradise, lost on the high canopies of tropical jungles. For several seasons already, the Maison has accustomed us to this unusual yet extremely delicate mix, the result of an ancient ......... s.....

skillful craftsmanship. The white gold crossover ring features two sophisticated opposite wings set with round and marquise-cut diamonds, holding a superb drop-shaped ruby of 2.43 carats from Mozambique. Set in a slightly asymmetrical way, it suggests a fiery red feather detached from the main plumage of the Piaget Bird, a sparkling fire enhanced by the algid light of the purest of diamonds.

Adriano Davoli

www.piaget.com