UNSAVORY SWEETS

This vegan bakery is helping Columbus celebrate and commiserate, and it’s totally uncensored.

By Jaelani Turner-Williams / Photos by Jen Brown

The vision for uncensored vegan goodies first came to Reggie Stepanov in a dream.

Waking at 3 a.m. with the idea fresh on her mind, Vulgar Vegan Bakery was born. And while her often hilarious cakes and cookies scratch that itch for vulgarity we all have from time to time, there’s a larger social agenda crammed into her sweet, profane treats as well.

“The last few years have been very hard for folx, and the importance of creating a safe space, even by way of a cookie cake in their home, is evermore important. I definitely knew that you can't go to your regular grocery store and get a cake that says ‘You’re fucking amazing’ because it's out of corporate policy.” Stepanov said. “I saw the need in my community to celebrate authentic, genuine moments without shame. What I didn’t envision is how my cookie cakes organically help build community, build up people and share unapologetic love, and I’m humbled by that opportunity.”

Handcrafting creative, and often profanity-laced, phrases with (vegan) cookie dough, bright colors and an assortment of confections like sprinkles and frosting, Stepanov’s from-scratch cookies and cakes grant a small but uniquelyempowering freedom to everyone enjoying them. →

I SAW THE NEED IN MY COMMUNITY TO CELEBRATE AUTHENTIC, GENUINE MOMENTS WITHOUT SHAME."

↑ Reggie Stepanov decorates a fresh cookie cake

“Vulgarity is certainly attention grabbing, and the vulgarity brings a punchline folx want to convey. I staunchly believe in authentic expression and empowering our voices, and some celebrations are significant enough to be topped with an F-bomb and a spray of unicorn sprinkles for emphasis,” she said.

And while her cookies are often brash, she creates them for a broad variety of occasions. Whether it’s illness, breakups, or racism you’re dealing with—or if you just want to loudly celebrate one thing or hilariously denounce another—Vulgar Vegan has a cake for it.

Cakes with phrases like “Go run the world, bitch” and “Cool ass mom” alongside breakup cookies that proclaim “He sucks like a lot” are just a few of the items from Stepanov’s enormous catalogue.

Stepanov—who grew up baking—has noticed more and more Columbusites willing to try vegan fare, sometimes even preferring it, even if they don’t opt for an entirely plantbased diet themselves. Something that was wanting in the local vegan food scene, she believed, was the cookie cake.

A light-hearted cookie cake →

“Cookie cakes are a classic! I also think they lack in the vegan community, so it took a bit to perfect a soft and chewy cake that would appease vegans and nonvegans,” she said.

Perfecting soft and chewy vegan cookie cakes, the Vulgar Vegan Bakery menu also features chocolate chip cookies, which can be customized with phrases and decorations. In 2022, Vulgar Vegan Bakery will be launching decadent cake pops, cookie shot glasses, and secret menu ice cream cakes. While signature cookie cakes aren’t leaving the menu, there’s more room for uncensored treats galore.

Uncensored goodies from Vulgar Vegan Bakery have become popular in Columbus, but have also caught attention from across the pond. Stepanov recalled that supporters from London once placed an order for a family member residing in Columbus.

And although her business is local, she hopes to make a widespread impact with messages on her cookie cakes questioning social norms and belief systems.

“Many folx feel uncomfortable discussing transgender rights or celebrating same-sex couples, or even more nervous to discuss the Black Rights Movement. To them, those topics alone are an ‘expletive’,” she said. “If those seemingly vulgar topics are met with a cute slice of cake and positive conversation, my job is done.”

And even with her sights set high, Stepanov can recall the individual victories she’s seen; the moments where the humanity of others shines through that make it all worthwhile, the moments she can have her (vulgar) cake and eat it, too.

“When a dad picks up a custom, ‘We know you’re gay & we love you’ cake, my little heart explodes from joy! It’s those moments that matter in people’s lives, and they fucking deserve to be celebrated hard and true,” Stepanov said. “I’m here to do what I can to help make it happen, in my apron and armed with frosting and sprinkles, and a few creative vulgarities to get the job done." ♦

To see more Vulgar Vegan creations, follow @vulgarveganbakery

Wolf’s Ridge Brewing delivers brand-new concept with healthy fare, lighter beer in a natural landscape

By Bella Czajkowski / Photos by Aaron Massey

Outdoor and restaurant enthusiasts alike may soon find a nice spot to lay their roots. Columbus’ Wolf’s Ridge Brewing is expanding, hoping to bring guests closer to nature while offering an array of healthy food and lighter drink options at its newest concept, Understory.

The new event space and lounge is situated in the Old North neighborhood, but due to the dense foliage preset and proximity to the woodsy Olentangy Trail, it almost appears to be located inside a forest itself. “It’s just an amazing location, in an urban environment that you don’t often see,” Bob Szuter, co-founder of Wolf’s Ridge Brewing, said of Understory.

Located downstairs from a sizable private event space is the Understory lounge and patio. Szuter said the patio will have a more casual appeal, where runners or bikers may wander off of the Olentangy Trail for a break. This area will have less formal seating, serving as a place to hang out under the surrounding treetops. →

Mural in Understory showcases natural theme ↑

“They can pop off, not feel out of place if they’re wearing bike shorts and may be a little sweaty,” Szuter said. Understory will also feel a bit more upscale inside its lounge, making the experience flexible to meet guests’ needs. Whichever space visitors settle into at Understory, Szuter said they will be able to pick from an array of healthier food and beverage options. The menu will focus on casual vegetarian and vegan fare, also offering cocktails and non-alcoholic drinks.

The new spot will also brew its own beer. But instead of the dark, massive imperial stouts that helped put Wolf’s Ridge on the map, it will focus on lighter styles, with an emphasis on oak-aged lagers, another nod to its natural theme. Understory has been hosting private events since October. The lounge and bar held its grand opening on Jan. 21, and the remaining patio is slated to open around the end of February as weather permits. Apart from its picturesque setting, the location also holds an interesting backstory. Understory is housed in the Open Air building, a historical structure in Columbus first built to accommodate children at high risk for tuberculosis. It was designed to promote free-flowing air, giving the building its unique open concept to this day.

When asked to describe the ambiance of Understory, Szuter couldn’t settle on just one depiction, as the space takes on the look and feel of its surroundings. Between the towering windows and patio that sits directly next to the forest, whatever is happening outside is mirrored within the walls of Understory. “Yesterday I was there and the sun was pouring through the windows and you could just feel the energy coming from that,” he said. “You just get this feel of really connecting with what’s going on outside.” Szuter emphasized that the last couple years in the pandemic have been challenging for hospitality, from a decrease in business to staffing and supply chain issues. “I think, like the rest of the world, we’re really excited to try to move past this,” he said. “We can’t wait to show this off to everybody.”

To learn more, visit understorycbus.com

↓ Exterior of Understory