(614) June 2020 by 614mediagroup

(614) MAGAZINE JUNE 2020 614NOW.COM

BIG PICTURE The Memorial Day flag display outside of The National Veterans Memorial Museum in Downtown Columbus. PHOTO BY JULIAN FOGLIETTI

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CONTENTS

COV E R PACKAG E CARRY-OUT CORONATION 46

SALVATION IN A CAN 26

COLUMBUS' ASIAN KITCHENS 30 SUSTAINABLE ADAPTATION 38 THE BREAD DIARIES 42 SPECIAL DELIVERY 56

42 66 12

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LOVE IN THE TIME OF CORONA 60 QUARANTINE FASHION 66

ON THE COVER:

Photo by Julian Foglietti Illustration by Paul Barton

O P E N I N G VO L L E Y

There’s no ‘small’ in small business. “An entrepreneur is someone who will jump off a cliff and assemble an airplane on the way down.” - Reid Hoffman, founder Linkedin

Let’s start with a fact that may surprise you. According to the Small Business Administration (SBA), 98.2% of all businesses in the U.S. are small businesses with under 100 employees. It sure doesn’t feel like that in a world seemingly dominated by huge companies and well-known, mega-brands, but the real economic muscle of America is our small businesses. Of the roughly 5.6 million small businesses with employees, they employ about 33% of the entire private sector workforce in the U.S. In Ohio, the impact is even larger - employing 46% of our private workforce. ‘Small business’ is really ‘big business’, especially in Ohio. And when it comes to creating new jobs, some might think companies like Amazon are the big driver, with their current 175,000 person hiring spree recently in the headlines. Yet over 60% of all new jobs created are a result of small business hiring. At some stage of life, many of us have imagined casting away the drudgery of our 9-5 gig and punching our ticket aboard the exciting train of entrepreneurship. Be your own boss, they say. Become the master of your own income and future. But what is it really like to own your own business? Being a small business owner is not an easy path. If you’ve ever watched Shark Tank, you’ve heard the stories of struggle and seen the tears of passionate people who have not yet found their roadmap to success.

That’s because the road can be long and challenging for most entrepreneurs. You will sacrifice your time and relationships away from family and friends - especially in the beginning. You will risk your savings and credit cards to rent a space or buy materials or invest in fixtures. There’s the never-ending weight of responsibility felt for your employees who rely on you for their livelihood. There’s the never-ending pressure to make payroll, provide benefits, pay taxes and insurance - all things usually not mentioned in the entrepreneurial fairy tale. Then there’s the economic risk of not making any profit at all. Did you know the average profit margin for restaurants is around 11% and for retail it’s 5%. When you do make money, eager federal, city and state tax men are waiting at your doorstep for their outsized cut. In Ohio, even when you don’t make a profit, you’ll pay a tax called CAT (Capital Activity Tax) that’s based on revenue - not profit. For a business like a small restaurant that does $1 million in sales but no profit, they still owe the state $2,600 for the privilege of doing business. Don’t forget about the customers. They get the final vote as to whether your brand is one they will support. If you thought being a business owner was about not having a boss, think again. You’ll have lots of “bosses”. This is all during ‘normal’ times. And finally, the constant, daily threat of the unforeseen - the broken walk-in cooler, the leaky roof, the employee who didn’t show or worse… a global pandemic that prompts the government to close your business for weeks or months. So why would anyone do it? Ask 10 entrepreneurs their “why” and you’re likely to get 10 different answers. That’s because it’s a personal motivation, unique to each individual. Speaking for myself, I do it because I enjoy the creative challenge and knowing that when we do our jobs well, we inspire our audience to experience new things and enjoy our city in meaningful ways. These last two and a half months have been tough for our company but much worse for others. We’ve watched, and helped where we could,

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as so many of our clients and partners have struggled to keep the doors open, their staff employed and some ray of hope alive. Some will be dealing with their economic ruin for years to come. And don’t forget the emotional toll that will sadly play itself out in the months to come. Of course, this is not meant to minimize the cost in lives due to the coronavirus - that is its own tragedy. But we’ve also witnessed the resourcefulness and agility of so many SBs who found ways to survive against all odds - from the restaurant industry’s pivot to Carry Out we’re profiling in this issue, to gyms providing virtual workouts and manufacturers making PPE instead of booze or t-shirts. This is the kind of creative capitalism everyone can root for. Ohio has finally reopened - albeit, with a new set of expensive rules to ensure the safest environments possible and a mood of reluctance among many consumers to overcome. That’s why small businesses need your support now more than ever. This isn’t just about supporting the entrepreneur - it’s about supporting the workers and the entire ecosystem that underpins our economy. So, skip the national drive-thru chains (they’ll be just fine) and visit a locally owned restaurant instead. Go out of your way to find that shirt or shovel at a locally-owned retailer instead of a big box store. Hold off on clicking that orange, ‘Buy Now’ button on Amazon.com and see if you can find it locally first. When grabbing a six-pack of beer from Giant Eagle… you know what to do. These efforts will pay instant dividends within our community and go a long way to restoring the vibrancy of the biggest business of all - our small ones.

Wayne T. Lewis Publisher/CEO

PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis STAFF PHOTOJOURNALISTS Zak Kolesar Julian Foglietti

SENIOR CONTRIBUTORS J.R. McMillan Jaelani Turner-Williams John Mclaughlin Melinda Green Rebecca Tien

LEAD DESIGNER Sarah Moore CREATIVE DESIGNERS Justin Remotap, Paul Barton VIDEO PRODUCER John Thorne DIGITAL MEDIA SPECIALIST Taryn Meidl VP OF SALES AND MARKETING Lindsay Press ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Derek Landers ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nikki Harris, Mindy Wilhite DIGITAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Lori Brittenham

(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 | Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614columbus.com www.614now.com

ROCKIN’ IN A F-150 Truckbound concert series reaches the city’s most vulnerable with music BY J OH N MC L AU G H L I N | P H OTOS P R OV I DE D

he chances are, you’ve seen live music performed in venues of all sorts. From the historic Pabst Theater, to outdoors on the shore of Lake Michigan, to a sweaty mosphit in your second cousin’s basement. Somewhere most of us have likely never seen live music though, is in the bed of a pickup truck while it’s parked outside your front door. But the Curbside Concert Series is trying to change that. Organized by Can’t Stop CBUS —a group that formed this March with a viral tweet and aims to connect and better the city of Columbus through a series of community projects— the series brings 10-15 minutes performances to the homes of elderly Columbus residents in order to foster community spirit and unity in those who may need it most. According to a statement from Can’t Stop CBUS, the goal of the series is “To create much much-needed moments of levity and connection for our elder neighbors,” for older Columbus residents “Who might not connect with others online through video chats or live events the same way that the digital natives of younger generations do.” Friends or loved ones of elderly Columbus residents can request a concert online for a couple or individual they believe would benefit, and if selected their home (or assisted living facility) will be included as a stop on the four hour concert shifts musicians undertake Friday through Sunday every week. Those requesting a concert are even able to request a specific style of music and add a personal message that’s delivered from the performer And for Curbside Concert musician Amber Knicole those moments

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of levity are very real indeed. “There’s a moment where you can actually see people light up. They’re so grateful,” she said. “There’s so much going on in our lives right now, and to see people let some of that go for even a few minutes is amazing.” Knicole — who also serves as the vocalist for Columbus neo-funk group Mojoflo—actually began her tenure with the concert series as a driver before taking on performances as well. “I’ve always been familiar with larger vehicles, so I was able to step right in.” Musicians are carted throughout the city on the flatbed of a glossy, slate-gray Ford F-150 donated by Ricart Automotive and fully equipped with a battery-powered speaker system. And while this allows the music to quite literally show up at your door, according to Columbus artist Steven Paxton, it presents a unique set of challenges as well. “You’re always trying to find the right spot to park, because that matters,” Paxton said. “And last week it didn’t rain so everyone was outside mowing their lawn. That kind of stuff can get in the way.” He ultimately sees the truckbound performances as being able to reach Columbus citizens in a unique and compelling fashion. “One elderly lady was confined to her bed and she wasn’t able to come outside, so we pulled up right beside her window.” And it’s moments like this where he says the spirit of the series shines through at its brightest. “The response we get is great, people just light up. They’ll often come out of their houses or the houses nearby, or out into the parking lot. It seems like everyone is just glad to have the interaction.”

Last weekend, Paxton even got to put a show for one of his biggest fans: his own Dad. “It was nice, this last week we ended our set earlier and was close to where my Dad lived, so we stopped by and did an extra show for him in Groveport,” he said. And while there’s not much you can do in the bed of an F-150, the series has been able to show off a nice cross-section of musical talent. While Paxton sings and plays keyboard as accompaniment, others will bring a guitar. Fisher only performs vocally, but she finds a way to make things interesting by singing over pre-recorded backing tracks to songs. “I try to find the ones that are the least amount of cheesy,” she says laughing. “But sometimes with covers you can find a track that really presents the song in a different way, which people appreciate.” And the Curbside Concert Series benefits more than just those who hear the shows. One of the sponsors of the concert series, the Great Columbus Arts Council, pays artists for their performances. “Being a full time musician means you need to have about six part time music jobs. Now, most of the venues are closed, so anything like this we can find is even more important,” Paxton said. “It really is a blessing.” • 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

hen The Parlor celebrated its first anniversary earlier this year, it came and went without much fanfare. After all, you can’t risk raising a ruckus over the concert venue equivalent of a speakeasy. Now, the quietlypromoted proof of concept may offer an unintended road map for the future of live music. “We had the whole season booked, so when the situation quickly started progressing toward cancellations, I was calling the health department every day. Based on their advice, we stayed open until the restaurant ban hit,” explained the host of The Parlor, who prefers to maintain the same secrecy as his clandestine concert series. (Anyone who has received one of his cryptic messages or been to a show simply knows him as “The Man in the Black Hat”.) “We couldn't quite tell what was happening or what was coming. Even though we're not a restaurant, we decided to follow those protocols for the safety of our audience.” For the uninitiated, The Parlor isn’t invitation only, but it is somewhat exclusive. Intrigued would-be attendees are vetted before they’re offered tickets to shows barely publicized beyond the close-knit community of recurring concert goers. Imagine the intimacy of a house show, but not knowing the address until an hour before the band takes the stage. That’s The Parlor. But it’s also not a clique. The audiences are as unassuming as they are anonymous, strangers in the same secret society who actually sign the stage to seal their pledge of silence. From perennial favorites like The Floorwalkers, Mojoflo, and Willie Phoenix to notable locals like Josh Krajcik and Chris Jamison, The Parlor creates interaction often absent from the concert experience, and offers artists compensation from ticket sales more commensurate with their talent. With restaurants reopening, but most live music events on hold, The Parlor is ready to parlay their unique niche, rescheduling events and forging new formats that still meet strict guidelines for social distancing. Stadium shows and lawn seats are still a long way off, but small and simple gets artists back on the stage in short order. 18

the parlor Reconnecting Artists and Audiences STO RY & P H OTO BY J. R . MC MI L L A N

“We've been trying to get in touch with national acts who may have cancelled tours through Ohio and pair them with local artists in a house show format,” he revealed. “But there are also local artists who need gigs now. So we've been ramping up to do different types of experiences than we’ve done before, featuring pairings with local restaurants.” Plenty of musicians are reinventing their relationship with fans, hosting Facebook concerts from home, hoping to make enough in online tips and selling a little merch to hold on until the industry figures out what’s next. But any degree of real recovery could be months away, maybe more. Arena shows have additional obstacles, leading some to worry whether they’ll return at all, or if the venues themselves long survive. “I've been considering guarantees versus

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percentages of sales and how to structure those arrangements. But at the end of the day, I think there's a great opportunity to continue to pay artists really well, just like we always have,” he opined. “Honestly, I hope promoters in town who currently can’t work with traditional venues reach out, because house concerts could really emerge right now as a way to make gigs happen.” That’s the edge The Parlor has over typical venues. Now those smaller audiences seem safer and the larger cut of ticket sales sound even more appealing to performers. But that’s also why everyone from concert halls to the club circuit have been quietly conspiring to shut down house shows and their organizers for years—and why the man in the black hat is just fine remaining under the radar. “I think the hardest part for me is the empathy

" Stadium shows and lawn seats are still a long way off, but small and simple gets artists back on the stage in short order. " I have for the artists. When the national unemployment rate was passing 15 percent, the unemployment rate for full-time performers was nearly 99 percent because there was no place to play,” he noted. “I’ve been staying in touch with them just to make sure they’re okay. Some have decided to retire, or take corporate jobs. Others are taking time off hoping things will go back to normal in a couple of months and are just trying to get by.” One of the only entertainment venues prepared for a sudden comeback are drive-in movie theaters. Outdoor screens from coast to coast have seen a steady increase in interest, and with patrons parked in the confines of their cars, social distancing is in force by default. The Parlor’s latest venture launching this month hopes to tap into that same nostalgic experience. “The Hidden Drive-In is the first departure from our established format, and will feature live concert performances and modern and classic films on a 30-foot display at an undisclosed location in Downtown Columbus”, he explained. “We want to create socially-distanced events our audience can still enjoy together.” A launch and a fundraiser, the Hidden Drive-In is scheduled to premiere June 12 and 13, with two shows each evening. Tickets are priced for both bikes and cars, with the added bonus of fresh barbecue served on-site. It’s dinner and a movie unlike anywhere else. But it’s also the less conspicuous launch of an entirely new audio platform The Parlor plans to incorporate into future events, offering a fidelity unrivaled by typical FM transmitters or standard concert technology. True to form, the exact origins and specifications of the audio setup are also a tightly kept secret. “We knew 80 tickets would cover our initial costs, and spread across four shows, it allows us to spread our audience out as well,” he revealed. “We also knew which space in Columbus we really wanted to present this first, and there are multiple prospects and partnerships where we could present in the future. We expect this to be a magical experience that will help us make decisions on where to host additional events beyond the Hidden Drive-In.” For details on upcoming performances, including the Hidden Drive-In, visit The Parlor on Facebook.

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The Music Lives On A ‘night out’ from the comfort of your own couch STO RY A N D P HOTO BY REBECCA TIEN

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ith the order in mid-May that bars and restaurants could begin to open, it has been left to individual businesses to assess the feasibility of this based on the size of their building and the nature of their business. For the Rambling House, a small bar and music venue in South Clintonville, this is a no-brainer. Given that their main function is to serve up beer, live music and a vibrant social scene in an intimate 100-person setting, where people can come after a long week to let their inhibitions go, opening up right now seems like a scary prospect. So co-owners of the music bar, Geoff Wilcox and Mark Buchan are trying to think outside the box about how to safely and effectively keep their staff afloat and the network of musicians that rely on places like Rambling House gigging without physically opening. In what Geoff refers to as “The Ides of March”, before restaurants and bars were even officially shut down, the owners knew they needed to close their doors and re-envision for the foreseeable future how Rambling House could continue to be part of the Columbus scene. From the get-go, they realized that they needed to be proactive in their response to the virus and the corresponding economic impact, rather than reactive. Their top priority was making sure their loyal, 13-member staff would be taken care of. This has been handily accomplished by initiating a GoFundMe site to “tip out the bartenders” and, through the goodwill of the community, has generated over $10,000 dollars (or more precisely $11,622 as Rambling House’s social media director, Adam Himmel likes to point out). 100% of this fund has gone towards paying the staff out each week since the stay-at home orders began. It was equally important for Geoff, who is himself a musician, to find a way to support fellow musicians who found themselves suddenly unable to support themselves. Thus, the Couch Tours were born - a series of live virtual concerts via Facebook straight from the musician’s living room to yours. Rambling House has been running these Couch Tours throughout the past two months at a frequency of 5-6 times a week with no intention of stopping anytime soon. Viewers are asked to continue to “tip” the bartenders through the GoFundMe site as well as to buy a virtual “ticket” to the event which is donated directly to the musician. These virtual events have turned into such a hit that the bar’s booking agent, Lindsey Jordan is even planning a Couch Sectional at the end of May - a three-day virtual music festival that includes local artists Sumbuck, Angela Perley (pictured here), Damn The Witch Siren, and many others. Geoff and his team see these virtual concerts not just as a stop-gap measure, but as a wave of the future. They recognize that there are a potential slew of customers like myself who are inclined to be in their pajamas by 9pm even when not in the midst of a global pandemic and to whom having to be in a packed bar after being around people all day is anathema. But us introverts still enjoy live music and would be happy to purchase an online ticket to have a “seat at the table” such as it is. The owners also realize there are drawbacks to running concerts this way too. There is a palpable energy in the room when a live crowd resonates with a musician - a back and forth that makes the musician want to lay their heart on the table a little more willingly and participants to shake a tail-feather with a little more enthusiasm. But there is also an amazing intimacy to watching a musician spill their guts out from their very own living room as you sit holding a glass of wine in yours and knowing that somehow, we are all in this together. •

For more information about the Couch Tour: facebook.com/ RamblingHouseDrinks/ 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

Drive-In Renewal The battle at home against Trolls BY Z A K KOLESA R

he movie industry went through a downward spiral where it looked as if the theater-going experience would be priced and convenienced-out of the average American’s pockets. Who would’ve thought that the behemoth that would take down that sector of film stands six inches tall and has mangy, rainbow-colored hair? Trolls World Tour has been the highest-grossing VOD release so far since COVID-19 closed movie theaters. Grossing $100 million in $20, 48-hour purchases over three weeks, according to the Wall Street Journal. The move to straight VOD release angered AMC so much, that they declared a ban on all Universal films once theaters reopen. While Anna Kendrick’s and Justin Timberlake’s troll personas will be missing from AMC theaters this year, you just may be able to catch them in a drive-in capacity this summer. Columbus has one drive-in--the South Drive-In--within earshot, but we’re starting to see organizations with the capacity keeping the movie-going experience alive. The Ohio History Center will be featuring a few Steven Speilberg-themed Saturday nights this summer in its parking lot, located at 800 E. 17th Ave. “They have family appeal, some are very nostalgic and they’re just great movies to watch. And for most of our guests, probably to re-watch,” said Jen Cassidy, director of the OHC. With a screening of E.T. the Extra-Terrestrial kicking off the series in May, Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Arc and Jurassic Park will be rounding out the Spielberg bonanza on June 13 and July 11, respectively. “We’ve been closed to the public as a museum and outdoor history site, so we were looking for creative ways to keep Ohioans engaged with our museum,” Cassidy said. “We realized that our big parking lot could be a great spot for a pop-up drive-in and after 10 days of whirlwind planning, we hosted the first installation of our drive-in movie series.” Like most drive-in experiences, the audio will be connected to an FM channel. The Ohio History Center suggests that you bring a standalone radio to prevent your car battery from draining. It’s free to register for a spot at the Ohio History Center’s drivein through their website. They also provide a snack pack option, which includes a big cookie and Buckeye caramel corn, for $9.50 and water for $1.35. The designated movie will show twice, once at 4:30 p.m. and another at 8:30 p.m. Gates open 30 minutes prior to showtime, and the Ohio History Center suggests you arrive around that time as well. They also require attendees to practice social distancing by keeping their windows up. The appropriately-located Ready Player One was supposed to be on the bill for August, . Savannah Robles--the Public Relations 22

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Coordinator at Ohio History Connection--mentioned that with movie theaters reopening, the drive-ins may not have the available licenses to show certain movies. Just like the Ohio History Center initially did when it converted its parking lot into a pop-up drive-in, people will have to get crafty if they want to supply a safer alternative to going out to the movies during uncertainty in the time of coronavirus. If you’re in the group of those who are excited about the revival of the traditional drive-in, look no further than South Drive-In. Located at 3050 S. High St., the drive-in popped up 70 years ago and is the only of about 20 driveins in the Columbus area that’s still standing. For now, South Drive-In has been showing movies on the weekends only. With two-screen availability, there are two double feature choices to pick from. Owner Bryon Teagardner suggests that guests arrive one-and-a-half to two hours before the first 9 p.m. showtime. A reason why Trolls World Tour sold so well compared to other VOD releases is that it was justifiable for parents to even rent the movie three times for $60. This $60 tradeoff was for parents to get six days of peace in their makeshift, at-home office. The drive-in experience makes even more sense from a financial standpoint, especially since those same kids who binged Trolls are the same ones now begging their parents for any sort of adventure outside of their house. For those ages 12 and up, a double-feature will cost a guest $9.50 on Fridays and Saturdays and $7.50 Sunday through Thursday. Those ages five through 11 pay $2 every night, and four and under get in free. Like most companies dealing with the blindsidedness of COVID, South Drive-In is still working on finetuning their online ticketing and food ordering systems. The social distancing guidelines that South Drive-In is following means that the drive-in will be operating at 50 percent capacity. Much like how places like the Ohio History Center are getting creative

in providing a drive-in experience, internet musician sensation Marc Rebillet--aka Loop Daddy--will be bringing his first-ever drive-in tour to the South Drive-In on June 14. 124 attendee spots are still available, while 50 percent of attendee spots sold out on the first day. Tickets are going for $40 per spot. Some people may not like the idea of being cooped up in a car for sometimes over four hours. They may not find the idea behind streaming audio through an FM channel as of enough quality, depending on how fancy of a vehicle you have. But film buffs everywhere are going to need to band together. They can’t let Trolls confine them to their couches. The stay-athome order was draining on the mental health of a lot of people. Getting outside of the house to enjoy entertainment is probably the safest possible way--in your own car--is extremely important in keeping our minds active during this time. “We know it can be challenging to work at home, teach kids at home and care for family members, but also be isolated from extended family, friends, and co-workers,” Cassidy said. “Movies provide a great escape from all of this. Our streaming channels are great, but a change of venue gives us a chance to refresh and reframe.” Movie theaters were one of the first institutions that were swept empty across the country. They were also some of the first that were reopened. Teagardener purchased the South Drive-In plot in 2018. Now he yields one of the mightiest swords in the movie industry as the owner of a drive-in. Plenty will not feel comfortable returning to a movie theater once the ones around them reopen. There is definitely a higher chance that people feel a lot cleaner in the safety of their own car. So, as a bunch of ugly, singing pests drain the pockets of movie theaters, Teagardener and an army of drive-in connoisseurs have a chance to recreate the magical drive-in movie boom of the 1950s. A big-screen, outdoor audio-visual spectacle like Tenet might just be what brings the modern moviegoer out of the steaming loop.

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Ohio's

Wineries 118 WEST FRONT STREET, SUITE G NAPOLEON, OH 43545 419-599-WINE(9463) THELUMBERYARDWINERY.COM OPEN: THURSDAY 4-8PM FRI FRIDAY& SATURDAY 12-9PM SUNDAY 1-5PM FOR EVENTS & ENTERTAINMENT FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK

Salvation in a can Columbus beermakers shine with their backs against the wall BY J OHN MC L AU G H L I N | P H OTOS P R OV I DE D

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olf’s Ridge Brewery had an enormous problem on their hands, starting when Ohio Governor Mike DeWine and Department of Health Director Dr. Amy Acton issued an order to ban in-person patronage of bars and restaurants These closures went into effect on March 15, but like other Ohio businesses, Wolf’s Ridge learned of them only days beforehand, with several full batches of beer sitting in their tanks. As head brewer Chris Davison explains, with many of those beers designated as taproom-only releases, Wolf’s Ridge had to act fast before ten of thousands of dollars worth of product went to waste. “We had all that beer in the tanks and pretty quickly realized our normal way of handling things wasn’t going to work. We had to get the ball rolling,” he said. The only resolution the team saw was to package it for individual sale and hope for the best. “Our first solution was to can all of it,” Davison said. And what felt at first like a move made out of sheer necessity yielded impressive numbers for the Columbus brewery. According to Davison, can sales have at least doubled since. “We first we thought we’d end up dumping most of that beer, but as sales started ticking up and we had a better idea we realized that we actually have an outlet to get rid of this beer,” he said. As an avid consumer of craft beer myself, this rapid influx of novel beer from my favorite local breweries is something that’s immediately noticeable. While normally craft beermakers will offer only one or two new seasonal beers a quarter, it was easy to find multiple new releases from a variety of nearby breweries perusing a local bottle shop last weekend: Columbus beer drinkers may be stuck at home, but they at least won’t be wanting for beverage options. A standout from the several pandemicborn local brews I sampled comes from Columbus Stalwart Seventh Son. Hazy Origins is an 8% ABV double New England style IPA that boasts the brightness and drinkability of other hazy IPAs that sets itself apart from middling examples of the style. While the hop profiles of many hazy beers tends to be muddled and blended together in • 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

an undifferentiated mess, Hazy Origins presents clear, distinct hop notes, and a complete IPA. Like Wolf’s Ridge, Seventh Son has taken to canning nearly all of their production over the last several months. And while this has helped keep many Columbus beermakers afloat, it’s not without its own unique set of challenges, according to Seven Son’s Head Brewer Colin Vent. “All of a sudden, we needed 60 percent more cans. It was this huge surge of can purchasing, which is extremely expensive. We’ve been paying our invoices to the tune of $18,000 and $30,000 just to get product out there.” Additionally, according to Vent, the margins on cans simply aren’t as high as taproom sales. While Seventh Son has their cans laminated by a third party (which can take up to six weeks), other Columbus breweries are scrambling to manage all of this themselves. “We weren’t prepared for how much demand there was going to be; I personally thought it was going to be slow,” Said Chris Davison. The challenge for us is it’s a lot more labor intensive. It takes people to run a canning line for six to ten hours a day, sometimes more.” One way both Wolf’s Ridge and Seventh Son have worked around this is by creating their own unique quarantine beer series beers, using a similar label template for all of them so can text and design can simply be swapped in or out when needed. Seventh Son’s series, entitled Field Rations, sets all of the can art for new brews on a sparse, cream-colored background. “The concept is designed to look like old school cans you might put in your bomb shelter,” said Vent. “We’re teasing the panic buying of toilet paper and whatever else they see.” Fellow Columbus brewery Parson’s North is taking a similar approach, but has seen the majority of their sales come in larger formats. 28

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“We've never done home delivery before, but now 2/3 of our sales come from home delivery or curbside pickup,” According to Owner and Brewer Seth Draeger, once Ohio bars closed, they immediately pivoted to filling 25-ounce crowlers and bomberstyle bottles. Parson’s North has offered a variety of intriguing carryout options over the last few weeks, including a crowler IPA four-pack, an inventive and refreshing lemonade-infused kolsch, and a barrel aged imperial stout featuring a blend of four different cacao nibs hand-selected by name. “They were something I had to play around with for a while but I finally found the right varietal and it just blew my world.” And while a large percentage of Parson’s sales to carryout patrons (the lemonade Kolsch sold out within hours), all three Columbus breweries are also relying on a new tactic for sales: delivering to customers during the pandemic. And for Wolf’s Ridge, it’s become indispensable. “We've never done home delivery before, but now 2/3 of our sales come from home delivery or curbside pickup,” said Chris Davison. So while we might all be trapped in our homes for a while longer, I know I’m going to lean into the good things while they come. This includes indulging in a few great local beers on the weekends. They’re new. They’re fresh. And if I want I can get them dropped off at my front door. • 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

Â« PAD T HAI AT SUN TO NG LUCK

Columbus' Asian Kitchens 30

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Four families, four unique angles to Asian cuisine. BY JAELA N I TUR N ER -W I L L I A M S P HOTOS BY R EBECC A T I EN

s we’ve adjusted to donning facemasks in public and social distancing during the coronavirus, many Columbus businesses have faced the brunt of this ‘new normal’, but none more customer-facing than the restaurant industry. While the city frequently supports independently-owned cafes and restaurants in lieu of chain-restaurant dining, a number of Asian restaurants have endured xenophobia from those who are grossly prejudiced, unjustifiably denying support of these establishments. Restaurants will continue to reopen as social distancing regulations in Ohio are eased during the summer - but as service workers encourage hygiene through handwashing, wearing facemasks and ordering to-go, it’s important to ensure the continued support of independent restaurants. Here are four familyowned Asian establishments in Columbus that are not only revered for their tempting dishes, but that (614) commends for remaining determined to survive the challenges brought about by the pandemic.

Asian Kitchen 2828 ST EL ZER R D

Temporarily open for delivery and takeout, Asian Kitchen boasts Chinese and Asian fusion cuisine just steps away from Giant Eagle on Stelzer Road. As guests enter, they are met with Manekineko figurines behind the register, and an elaborate menu with numerous options from traditional, citrus-hued orange chicken, to the nearly mouthnumbing spice of Ma La Beef. Asian Kitchen’s various sauces are made with intention, especially the golden glaze of the sweet and sour chicken, in which patrons can customize their sauce with green peppers, carrot and pineapple. Need an extra kick? Order their succulent Szechuan scallops sprinkled with red pepper. For an offmenu dish, ask for flat noodles, a stir fry with vegetables and an assortment of meat. In spite of the pandemic, after a two week hiatus in late-April, the staff of Asian Kitchen is back to business, prepared to welcome customers both familiar and new to enjoy the Asian dining experience from home. • 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

Ye’s Asian Vegan Kitchen Y E AS I A N V E G A N .CO M

Opening in September 2018, the Hilliard-Rome establishment introduced an updated take on Asian cuisine to vegan fanfare. With an entirely vegan menu, Ye’s Asian Vegan Kitchen has amassed a loyal vegan following throughout Ohio, even customers who have traveled from hours away to savor plant-based Asian delights. While appetizers are usually eschewed for the main course, new Ye’s Asian Vegan Kitchen visitors can find themselves tempted by small courses of crispy golden nuggets made with soy protein, or vegetable dumplings which can be made steamed or pan-fried. Miso soup with tofu and strips of seaweed come with each entree, and while guests may have trouble deciding between Japanese eggplant with garlic sauce or malaysian coconut curry, they’ll have the chance to opt for soy protein or tofu for any dish. Having reopened for takeout and delivery on April 20th due to the pandemic, Ye’s Asian Vegan Kitchen has recently launched plant-based versions of duck and bass, which have been a big hit.

Sun Tong Luck S U N TO N G LU C K .COM

Though not exclusively vegan or vegetarian, Sun Tong Luck on Bethel Road promotes wellness by refraining from the use of preservatives, high fructose corn syrup and hydrogenated oil. Opening in 1982 in Reynoldsburg, the Chinese staple has been long-admired for pushing health consciousness, even encouraging customers to read ingredient labels when grocery shopping. Sun Tong Luck’s proactivity in wellness is evident in their traditional Chinese dishes, in which almost all can be made vegan. The restaurant’s vegan pad thai has been a menu favorite, being dressed with cashews, lime and broccoli atop of tofu and pad thai noodles, while their spicy green beans are stir-fried with chili peppers, carrots and chicken.

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Lieu’s Asian Cuisine LIEUS-ASI A N -C UI SI N E. BUSI N ESS. S I TE

Relocating from their start in Whitehall, North High Street restaurant, Lieu’s Asian Cuisine has reintroduced a host of Vietnamese options to diners whether they decide to order takeout or dine-in the establishment’s cozy digs. As social restrictions are laxed, customers can settle in and enjoy chefrecommended dishes like the soy sauce drenched Empress Chicken over a bed of white or fried rice while their famed Singapore noodles can be tossed with vegetables, chicken, beef, shrimp or mixed as a combination. Rather than merely being reserved as a side dish, soups at Lieu’s Chinese Cuisine are just as generous in portion, especially their scallion-topped seasoning of Tom Yum Soup with lettuce, beansprouts and tangy chicken broth. •

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Veliu immigrated from Albania in 2005 drawn by the promise and opportunity he hoped to find over the horizon. Restaurants are often the first stop for new Americans, an industry built both on the talent and toil of the millions of immigrants it employs. But it’s also a classroom for learning a new language and culture, nuances that are all too easily missed in moments of crisis. “What began as just a job became a passion. But my intentions aren’t and never have been political. I just try to help good people willing to help our community move forward,” he explained. “I soon recognized that even with the additional measures we planned to protect customers and staff, reopening too soon was not a risk worth taking, and I respect that.” Frequent Facebook posts from the always animated Veliu have replaced the candid conversations his customers miss most. But between frustration and translation, his comments and context soon became decoupled, and declarations to reopen came across to many as defiance instead of desperation. “In 2016, I was finally able to open my own restaurant with a lot of help from friends, and of course loans. My plan to pay off those loans was on track until the governor issued the order to shut everything down, including restaurants,” Veliu noted. “To be honest, I was a little concerned, but at the same time, it felt reasonable to quarantine to keep everyone safe.” Catering orders from essential employers have helped, as has some rent relief from his landlord. But like his fraternity of fellow restaurateurs, Veliu inevitably found his business sinking deeper into debt with no end in sight, and that same spirit of perseverance soon boiled over, capturing the public’s attention, admiration, and ire. His Facebook page was soon flooded with sympathy, skepticism, and even a few threats—and an online apology didn’t seem to quell the controversy. PH OTO P R OV I D E D

NOT A MOMENT TOO SOON | The reopening tale of Valter’s at the Maennerchor BY J.R. MCMILLA N

runch has always been as much about the atmosphere as the meal itself. It’s an excuse to gather, indulgent by design. Even the most intentional takeout and delivery can’t duplicate the experience, and restaurants that consider it among their specialties seem even more empty than their vacant dining rooms suggest. But the rush to return to some state of normalcy generated unintended controversy for Valter’s at the Maennerchor. The once bustling brunch spot and anytime standard bearer for Central European cuisine waded into treacherous waters when they announced intentions to reopen in early May for limited dining. Outspoken support was as fierce as online criticism, and the adage that there’s no such thing as bad publicity may never have been more wrong. “Speculation at the time was that the governor might reopen restaurants on May 1, and we were ready to do so safely,” explained Valter Veliu. “When that turned out not to be so, I made some strong statements about the lack of certainty and the struggle shared by all restaurants.” 34

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PHOTO BY JU LIA N FOGLIETTI •

“My proposal to open the restaurant was with limited tables and patio dining, which is exactly how we opened as soon as we were allowed to do so safely,” he explained. “I’ve been involved in fundraisers supporting the efforts of community leaders who share my passion for helping people. I will always be thankful and appreciative for what this country has given me, and I’ve never taken it for granted.” Valter Veliu’s success isn’t singular. It’s exactly the sort of story Columbus celebrates, one that illustrates the immigrant experience as one of triumph more than hardship. But the reality is that it’s rarely so simple. For every ethnic eatery that ekes out a faithful following, there’s a food truck one slow week away from folding up. The local restaurant scene still remains only slightly more supportive than it is unavoidably unforgiving. Ironically, the same standards Veliu vowed to institute earlier match those required by the state to do so as safely as possible. He hopes this footnote fades and folks appreciate the uncertainty still facing restaurants, many of which may never return. Fortunately for Valter’s, loyalties aren’t so easily shaken and his first open weekend in months saw no shortage of returning clientele. “We came a little earlier so there weren't a ton of other people. But we put on our masks to walk in, and were escorted out to the patio where they seated guests at every other table,” recalled Mallery Grimm. She and her husband Darin live nearby and knew exactly where they would go for their first meal once restaurants reopened. “Valter came out with his mask on just to thank everyone for coming. I think we all were just excited to get out of the house and feel connected again.” Takeout and delivery are still essential for restaurants to survive, and those with limited seating already are hit even harder. There’s also the expense of packaging, paper menus, and additional precautions that have kept some restaurants from reopening even though permitted for fear of losing more money than they take in. The entire industry is a long way from recovery, but brunch at Valter’s at the Maennerchor is still closer to normal than we were just weeks ago. “My husband and I have been working from home since March and really haven't seen that many people besides each other. Everyone was in good spirits just being out again,” she noted. “We had been doing takeout at least once or twice a week since this whole thing started to support our favorite restaurants, but it’s still not the same. There’s no substitute for a meal that comes out from the kitchen served in a hot skillet.” • For more on Valter’s history, takeout and delivery options, and reservations, visit valtersatthemaennerchor.com 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

employee of the month: How a manager's dedication kept a Columbus classic going STORY & P HOTO BY J UL I A N FOG LI E TTI

WHAT HAPPENED WHEN THE ORDER TO CLOSE RESTAURANTS WAS GIVEN? When we sat down and watched Governor Dewine’s press conference that said they were going to carry-out only, and we had a twelve hour turnaround to reinvent our business. That was a monumental challenge that none of us in this business had ever had to make. After that first week, we realized that we needed to reorganize again, because we were running it like a sit-down restaurant that does carry-out, when we needed to approach it as a carry-out specific establishment. At that same time, we got news that our parent organization had furloughed all its employees, which turned the job of marketing the restaurant to us, which was another challenge in itself.

IN WHAT WAYS HAVE YOU HAD TO REINVENT YOURSELVES? The biggest challenge we faced, at first, was the nonexistent foot traffic. 40-50% of our customers came from walk-ins from the shopping center. We had to figure out how to make ourselves visible and tangible to people from their homes. Luckily, we were able to build a following and have actually been able to expose ourselves to people that may not have heard of us otherwise.

WHAT'S CARRY-OUT LOOK LIKE FOR YOU? Weekly, we have been the busiest restaurant in our company. We’ve been doing well enough that we've been able to bring some people back on, which speaks volumes. For a while, it was just four of us working open to close six days a week, and we were thankful to still have our jobs, but three-four weeks into this and burnout started to set in. Many of us have families, and it took an emotional toll on us, so to be in a position to bring on the extra help has been incredible.

Back in April, Brio and Bravo made news when parent company FoodFirst Global Restaurants filed for bankruptcy. With many states locking down, the company was forced to close 71 of its 92 restaurants. As many falter, the Easton Brio location has remained strong with the help of Brian Peters, Assistant General Manager and now Chef. Brian's journey began just out of college when he did manager training at the Columbus Brio he now oversees. After ten years traveling the country, Brian found himself working in Las Vegas before returning to Columbus where he landed his current job running the restaurant that helped start it all. While the past few months have been trying, Brian seems certain that a slow and steady approach to opening will work out in the long run for the restaurant chain.

WHAT HAS BEEN THE HARDEST PART OF ALL THIS? Definitely calling each of our employees that Sunday night. My general manager and I sat in the office and called every single employee and told them hey, we’re closed, and we don't have a return-to-work date. To be a business operator, and not have answers, it’s not anything you ever want to be faced with. Everyone I spoke to on the phone, they’re not just employees. They’re family members, people I’ve known for years. I know their situation, and their family members’, and what’s going on in their lives, so that really punched me in the gut.

HAS BRIO’S NATIONWIDE SUCCESS CHANGED THE WAY THE VIRUS HAS AFFECTED YOU? We have to try and set a certain standard. People look to us because of our size, and we have to make sure we uphold that standard people see. It’s one of the reasons we’ve decided against reopening right away like many restaurants are. We’ve been able to stay busy with carry-out and have the luxury of waiting a bit longer to make sure everything is perfect before we begin letting customers in. It also helps to have such a big space, because it will make it easier to keep everyone properly distanced.

an environment that people want to be in, so to know that that environment was something people wanted to bring into their own homes was powerful.

ARE THERE ANY ACTIONS THE STATE OF OHIO COULD TAKE TO HELP RESTAURANTS SUCCEED DURING THIS? I think the state has provided a lot, especially in terms of health and safety guidelines for us to follow. I recently had a telecall from the Department of Health with all the new guidelines that we’ll have to follow when opening. Having very strict guidelines that we all have to adhere to will create a better environment for the guests and will strengthen the image of the industry. The worst thing they could do is give a looser message that creates wiggle room, because it can lead to confusion and weaken the whole industry.

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO THE MEMBERS OF THE SERVICE INDUSTRY CURRENTLY UNEMPLOYED?

WHAT HAS BROUGHT YOU THE MOST HOPE THE PAST FEW MONTHS?

Really just to stay vigilant. Many of us are working tirelessly to make sure that there is a place to come back to. Every week, we are here working open to close, trying to make sure that there is something here when things start returning to normal. I just want them to know we're doing the best we can with the resources available to us. •

Just seeing people walk in the front door. That first week was really trying, people were nervous, and the last thing on anyone's mind was getting an upscale italian dinner from the mall. So that first week we just cleaned, and after we finished, we looked at each other and said, “Man, is this it?” And then people started calling in, and the delivery tablets started to ring, and that gave us a lot of hope. The most important thing we do as a restaurant is create

Peters took to Facebook for a string of hilarious promotional videos to help keep Brio on diner's minds. Here he is as Joe Exotic.

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•

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Local farmer tends to the flock that matters most BY REGAN LOP EZ-D EV I C TOR I A PH OTOS BY REBECC A T I EN

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This post-Covid life has turned a lot of regular folks into jacks-of-all-trades. In addition to the work we did before the pandemic took over, we’ve become makeshift school teachers, chefs, gardeners, and housekeepers each of these trades a full-time job, complicated and demanding and vitally important. As I pivot between breakfast dishes and remote learning logins and online grocery shopping, I wonder not, “How will I do all of this?” but

“How can I do all of this longterm?” It’s a relentless, repetitive hustle, and it had me thinking about my friend Sarah Taylor. Sarah is a farmer, and the mother of six children. While a lot of us are scrambling, Sarah isn’t doing the work of instructing, farming, and feeding her people under sudden duress - this is the life that she’s willingly shaped for herself, and I knew she had knowledge to share that would lighten my load. Located in Westerville, Jedidiah Farm is one of the few sources for certified organic, pasture-raised chicken in the state of Ohio. Sarah also raises dairy goats, heritage hogs, and grows an incredible array of herbs and vegetables - but her children are the most impressive fruits of her labor. Ranging in age from six to eighteen, she has educated them all at home, and they are

incredibly competent, curious young people. After record rainfall in 2019 and a series of costly repairs put a dent in Sarah’s profit margin, Jedidiah Farm was planning a breather year for 2020 - but as the coronavirus outbreak exposed weak links in the nation’s food supply chain, she reconsidered. “I got an email right after the crisis: do I want to grow chicken this year, knowing there’s a need? Or do I step back and reevaluate my business plan? Then I discovered my hatchery had sold out of birds!” Urban homesteaders had panic-purchased all of the spring chicks and beaten her to the punch. She had the answer she needed. “It’s not looking like it [will] be physically possible for me to raise chickens this year, but I know in terms of myself and what’s sustainable for me that I needed to take a break regardless.

And it’s been really good. I have the resources and the time to make my systems better.” In other words: she adapted. Sustainability on Jedidiah Farm is more than a catch-word: it means cultivating resilience and regeneration, and you don’t do either by getting stuck on a feeling. Sarah isn’t distraught by the need to temporarily dial back her farm’s offerings; rather, she’s taking it as an opportunity to finetune her production methods and evaluate what’s been working and what hasn’t. Her oldest child is preparing for higher education, requiring more of her focus, and her family hasn’t taken a vacation together in over ten years. “It’s really humbling to say it publicly, but I can’t do everything.” Big Ag, with its equally big infrastructure and lobbyists, will recover handily from coronainduced challenges - like the • 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

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"what many of us need, as it turns out, is sustainability."

massive, unprecedented effort to quickly repackage goods intended to be served at suddenly-closed restaurants - but rallying is not a guarantee at the local level. Some of Ohio’s small farms have been able to harness the new consumer demands brought about by the pandemic, and others will spend this time on the bench. Regional farmer’s markets, initially deemed unessential, have done some heavy lifting to implement safety measures and continue to match farmers with consumers - but the real question is whether or not the farmer’s themselves will be able to re-invent their production and delivery methods on a dime, quite literally. Sarah’s chick-sourcing dilemma is just the tip of the meat-producing iceberg: even if she could get the birds, she’s not sure she’d be able to schedule with her preferred processor. For some producers, it’s as simple as finding new sources - but with a dedication to local suppliers (including hatcheries), organic certification standards, and high expectations for product handling and packaging, Sarah’s reluctant to expand her vendor list. Instead, she’ll watch and wait. “If I have to

change our production methods for a time to survive this, I can do it - but when you’re dealing with customers and providing a product with a specific value, you have to ask yourself if it’s really worth it.” For those who like to play the odds, put your bet on the small farmer. Sarah’s hustle is part of the gritty package we associate with the profession: “[T]hey have that resilience built-in to their business models already or they wouldn’t exist. There’s been a lot of creative problem-solving already - and that’s good.” Sarah will bring a sleeker, streamlined Jedidiah Farm back, but she won’t be short-changing her family or her products in order to do it. “[A]ny mom can relate to the struggle of trying to figure out where your values and priorities are, and where you're going to put your energy. How much do I need to accomplish during the day? Which choice am I going to regret less? This whole idea that women are supposed to be able to do it all and have it all - it’s a horrible lie. We don’t have to do it, and we shouldn’t have it all. We should just have what we need.” And what many of us need, as it turns out, is sustainability. •

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STORY & P HOTOS BY REBECCA TI EN

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saw a meme the other day that absolutely hypnotized me. It was Mary Poppins floating away with her parrothead umbrella and the words “So Done” captioned below. I keep watching that clip obsessively. I’ve never wanted to be Mary Poppins so badly in my whole life. These quarantine days seem to have no purpose or rhythm, one blurring into the next. A friend of mine heard the tornado sirens going off this afternoon and thought, is it Wednesday? Is it noon? The answer was in fact “no” on both fronts. It was Monday at 4:30pm and the sirens were telling him to get out of his quarantine-induced mental fog and get his ass into the basement. But while I chuckle at his plight, I simultaneously deeply relate. All this is to say, a month ago I found myself looking for some sort of structure and routine to ground me. Seeing an offer for sourdough starter on a Facebook discussion forum, I thought, well, why not that? In a fascinating turn of events, bread making has become somewhat of a national cliche - a corona-era hobby that has caught on so rapidly that finding flour on a supermarket shelf is as elusive as seeing the fabled Brigadoon. You know the fad has hit a particular level in our collective conscience when even Trevor Noah references the craze in a punchline of one of

You would think that suddenly being a simultaneous mom/ schoolteacher/ freelancer would have left me feeling like my plate was more than full, but honestly making bread has been my little respite, my pause-the-crazy excuse to re-center.

his acerbic jokes. But a couple of mail-ordered 50 lb bags of flour, endless blog posts, instructional videos and step-by-step howto IG posts later, I can whip up a loaf or two of perfectly ovensprung, holey, tangy loaves in minutes. Ok, if you know anything about sourdough, that’s a lie. The process is more like 24 hours, but I can hack it. The act of baking bread is a full-on sensory experience. My daughter loves to take the cap off my starter and take deep inhalations of its sour tang. I diligently observe my starter to see just how bubbly it is and whether it has doubled in size, finding incredible satisfaction in stretching out the dough to the breaking point and then folding it in a repeated sequence - streeeeeetch and fold, streeeeeetch and fold. The whole house is intoxicated by the heady aroma of a loaf cooling on the counter-top while we endure the almost impossible hour-long wait before we can cut that first perfect crusty heel slice. I call it baker’s prerogative that I’m usually the one who gets to eat it. As a kid, my Mom baked golden yeasted loaves of whole wheat often, timing it so that I could punch out the dough after school to release my pent-up frustrations of the day on the forgiving mound of warm dough. I come by my fascination for bread-making honestly. But the thought of attempting such a long and multi-stepped process myself seemed daunting and like an utterly unrealistic time sink. So I guess there is some blessing in the coronavirus after all. It gave me all the time and space to pursue an endeavor I would have otherwise dismissed until some future date on my timeline - like maybe when the kids went off to college, or at least to bed peacefully without nightly epic battles. You would think that suddenly being a simultaneous mom/ schoolteacher/freelancer would have left me feeling like my plate was more than full, but honestly making bread has been my little respite, my pause-the-crazy excuse to re-center: 2:00 pm to start the levain and measure•

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the flour and water for the autolyse; 6:00 pm to stretch and fold; 6:30 pm stretch and fold; and 7 pm stretch and fold. I may not have named my starter yet, but I feed it as diligently as my 7-year old feeds her pet Tomagotchi. See what I mean? Purpose. I won’t bore you with the scientific details or try to explain the difference between a starter and a levain (there is a thin line there, but it exists). I won’t expound on einkorn and the best brand of kosher sea salt, or what a high-hydration dough is, and why it is a good thing. I’ll leave that to the experts. But I will share with you the pure joy of going 44

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through the 24-hour process and then slicing open the bread for that moment of truth - a web of bubbles like a chunk of sea sponge washed up on a beach, letting you know this one is a good one. Against my most basic instincts, there is no instant gratification here, just a quiet waiting. And then the eating. My husband and daughter are in the jam and honey camp, but my son and I are more purists in our consumption. We prefer butter, just butter, globbing into every nook and bubble or better yet, slathered on day-old toast, dripping through the holes and down our fingers as we take delicate nibbles of the crispy,

A month ago I found myself looking for some sort of structure and routine to ground me. Seeing an offer for sourdough starter on a Facebook discussion forum, I thought, well, why not that?

flaky, tangy, chewy bits of heaven. For all the jokes about jumping on the sourdough wagon, I understand the impulse for normalcy and rhythm. Right now, we are all in that mythological liminal stage, a rite of passage we must pass through as our society and our place in it tilt towards some unknown future. We stand in the eye of the hurricane, tolerating the ambiguity and disorientation (with varying degrees of success) that comes with the uncertainty of this place and time. In that fog of unknowing, it is soothing to find a routine that keeps my feet still touching the earth. â&#x20AC;˘ 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

Carryout Coronation

L INDEY 'S PH OTO BY JULIA N FOG L I ET T I

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Dining-in may be back, but carryout is here to stay BY ZAK KOL ESA R

Columbus residents, stricken of their ‘Godgiven’ right to eat out and be merry, were forced into a decision at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic: go without the dining experience, ambiance and service that goes along with their favorite Columbus destinations or support those restaurants who remained open by bowing down to the new king of the dining scene: dinner in a box. From restaurant support groups formed on social media to individual calls-to-action, Columbus stepped up to strongly support their favorite places. Sometimes calling ahead to carry it out and other times, a swipe and a few taps for your delivery app of choice. Odds are for those who had food delivered to their houses during the past few months, the following companies were most likely the reason that food got to the door. Grubhub. DoorDash, Postmates. Uber Eats. Those are just a few of the big-name, third-party delivery services that have become a part of the restaurant zeitgeist over the past decade. Restaurants without the delivery infrastructures of the chain pizza shops had to make the snap decision to commit, sometimes, 100 percent of their business through thirdparty delivery services. Here’s the rub. Even if a restaurant did more business through takeout than they would do on a regular day of dine-in operatio, 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

CO N DA D O TACOS PH OTO BY M E G AN LE I GH BARNARD

fees average between 10 to 30 percent from a third-party delivery order, according to a report published by The Washington Times in May. Chicago Pizza Boss owner Guisseppe Badalamenti was the social media poster child for this in April. Badalamenti posted a screenshot of his monthly Grubhub statement on his personal Facebook page detailing how Grubhub took around 70 percent of his sales in March. It was a call to arms aimed at the consumer, bringing light to an issue that went widely unnoticed. “As a consumer, the first thing you think about is, How do I solve my problem,” said John Barker, president and CEO of the Ohio Restaurant Association (ORA). “My problem is, I’m hungry; my problem is I need new socks. And you don’t say to yourself, Well, what’re the most ethically-sourced socks in the world? And most people aren’t thinking about it that way.” Quarantined at home for the past two months, the convenience of sliding a finger across a phone screen to any of the third-party delivery service icons was just that: convenient. Even before restaurants lost 100 percent of their dinein business, delivery sales had already been on the rise, from seven percent in 2018 to nine in 2019, according to the ORA. Owners expect that number to reach 18.5 percent in the next five to 10 years. Fifty-one percent of consumers say they have used third-party delivery services this past year, according to a CNBC study. Despite that growth, the third-party delivery model has yet to reach profitability, much like the ride-sharing division of Uber, who lost $8.5 Billion in 2019, according to financial statements.. With a majority of the third-party services charging between 10 to 30 percent on every order, restaurants who normally operate on tight profit margins which average 11 percent (industry stats) are facing a deeper financial hole with any shift away from dining in. “If you paid 30 percent of your total sales to the delivery company, that's a lot. That's what we (refer to in the) business as a

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loss leader,” Barker said. Barker also mentioned that a single order would have to exceed $400 for restaurants to make a profit off of third-party delivery apps. However, not all changes faced during the pandemic have been negative. One saving grace for the restaurants with liquor licenses was the sudden ability to sell drinks with to-go food orders. Up until April 7, restaurants and bars weren’t allowed to serve alcoholic beverages to go, which makes up a significant portion of their profitability. When the alcohol carryout order was eventually passed, restaurants like Condado Tacos got creative in finding a way to make up for lost alcohol sales. The answer was in the form of $15 margarita kits. “It's been great for us. Huge actually,” said Joe Kahn, founder and CEO of Condado. “We made up a lot of those sales (with the kits).” There may be even better news on the horizon. House Bill 669, recent legislation that was just passed, allows for permanent to-go alcohol sales. Temporarily there is no limit on how many drinks that can be packaged to-go, though micro-distilleries will still have to abide by the 1.5-liter limit. Services like DoorDash and Grubhub would also be able to deliver alcohol only after registering with state liquor officials. Even with the loosened leash on alcohol sales, Barker has concluded that a small percentage of restaurants just don’t have the financial backing to reopen after two months of no business. The reality of the situation is that there will be Columbus establishments that won’t reopen without the influx of dining-in dollars. In a recent survey conducted by the ORA, 87 percent of restaurant owners expressed that they were comfortable with reopening in compliance with the opening day order. With three percent of restaurants already closing their doors for good, 10 percent of Ohio establishments are torn between shutting down as well or waiting out a possible second COVID-19 wave. “I don't think we know the rest of the story because it will depend

on how long it takes to get people comfortable coming back and using restaurants and retail and everything else that they used in the past,” Barker said. The future success of the industry relies a lot on what capacity dine-in business is able to return to. Barker predicts that most restaurants will only reach 50-60 percent capacity, even after the dust of uncertainty settles. He refers to these predictions as a “recipe for failure.” The Cameron Mitchell establishment Cap City Fine Diner and Bar reopened their doors following the order that allowed restaurants to allow dine-in starting May 21. According to a server, a few days into reopening Cap City had only regained about 30 percent of their seating capacity, which includes a three-couple cap at the bar and partitions in between booths. Despite the slow return to a comfy booth and table service, delivery apps are not only here to stay but many consider them the future foundation of the industry. “We know these are tough times for independent restaurants, and we’re happy to work with restaurant partners to help them manage costs and grow their business,” a spokesperson from Grubhub said. “Our mission since we were founded in 2004 has been to connect hungry diners with great, local restaurants.” In practice, Grubhub allows restaurants that sign up for their marketing service to determine the right level of marketing for their company. On average, restaurants partnering with Grubhub pay a marketing fee of around 10-15 percent, according to a spokesperson from Grubhub. Services like Grubhub and Doordash are also responsible for the cost to coordinate drivers, perform background checks, and develop technologies. If cap delivery fees are implemented beyond cities like San Francisco, Washington, D.C., and Seattle, third-party services may not be able to provide the critical food delivery service to restaurant partners at all. Simply put, if third-party services cut commission costs any more, restaurants will lose their delivery capability. “A cap to our commissions means we are not able to provide the level of quality customers expect from a delivery provider, pay Dashers meaningful earnings, and drive volume and sales that are so important to restaurants right now,” a spokesperson from DoorDash said. “Arbitrary caps imposed can have the unintended consequence of reducing sales for restaurants when they in fact need them most.” With delivery becoming such an essential service during COVID-19, companies like DoorDash have been reducing the fees for restaurant partners. The company has provided an estimated $100 •

" Restaurants like Condado Tacos got creative in finding a way to make up for lost alcohol sales. The answer was in the form of margarita kits.

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million in commission relief, including cutting commissions in half for more than 150,000 restaurants throughout the United States, Canada, and Australia. While these delivery services have been a savior for so many local restaurants, most would tell you there is a better way to support them if you absolutely must get it to-go. For local diners craving that bacon, egg, and cheeseburger masterpiece with a side of sweet potato fries, there is a preferred option. Call ahead and pick it up. Restaurants pay no fees and in many cases, you can get your food from restaurant to home even faster than waiting on a driver. Not all restaurants are set up for a deluge of call-inorders at 5 p.m. on a Friday. Even then, patrons would be doing their favorite restaurants a great service by hopping off the couch and going the carryout route. Columbus restaurants who have urged consumers to use their carryout model have been turning in higher profit margins per order. Roosters, who has not yet tested the third-party delivery model, saw an outpouring of support from the Columbus community with an influx of curbside orders. “We have decided at this time not to partner with any third party delivery services, just because we then lose control of the quality of our products, and that's just very difficult for us,” said Nicole Cox, director of marketing and public relations at Roosters. This is a longstanding issue that fine-dining establishments have faced when it comes to sending food out of their restaurants. Chefs are having to bite their tongues when their steak suffers a tremendous falloff in quality during that 10-minute or so delivery commute. Apparently, the same even holds true for chicken wings. In an effort to combat a dropoff in quality, restaurants like Lindey’s have been adapting to compostable and recyclable containers that present the food more properly with compact packaging that maintains the integrity of the dish that a chef strives for. Still, some sacrifices have to be made. “We wanted to make sure that we were doing this well and still being able to present the food well, so we did eliminate some of those items that would not travel well,” said Grant Cassidy, director of catering and sales at Lindey’s With all of these solutions acting as temporary bandaids, a lot of pressure is going to be put on the consumers who want to socially distance as much as possible. Carryout availability eliminates the need for a delivery middle man, but a few taps on your phone also eliminates any of the stress that comes along with getting up off a couch. “It's growing, and it's not growing for any other reason other than consumers like the convenience,” Barker said. A sad reality is, what has become an important part of American culture may never again return to normalcy. There’s a very good chance that we won’t ever see a front of house worker pushing multiple tables being pushed together in preparation for a 90th birthday party. There’s a very good

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chance that a brave soul approaching a TouchTunes machine will never again be able to create an impromptu dance party. There’s a very good chance that the dine-in revolution that Americans embraced so emphatically up until just a few months ago may become ancient history before long. The true reality is that carryout and delivery are the new kings of dining, despite current models that show the economic instability of both third-party delivery services and restaurants. Fine-dining restaurants will continue to adapt their packaging to ensure perfect travel, owners will find ways to retain their staff even without the complete diningin experience, third-party apps will continue to work with local restaurants to cut down marketing fees and do away with overblown commission fees. The new dawn of dining in is here, sooner than anyone could’ve predicted. •

“It's growing, and it's not growing for any other reason other than consumers like the convenience,” Barker said.

C A P C I T Y D I N E R M EATLOAF PH OTO BY B R I A N KAS I ER

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“You go on NextDoor and say ‘We have rum,’ and people might listen, but say ‘We have hand sanitizer,’ and they flood in.”

MAKING THE PIVOT New distillery thrives despite uncertain climate BY MELINDA G R EEN | P HOTOS BY JU L I A N FO G L I E TTI

oe Bidinger and Nikhil Sharoff, owners of Echo Spirits Distilling Company, were aligning the finishing touches on their Grandview bar when Ohio announced its bar and restaurant shutdown in mid-March. “We were hitting some of those typical, last minute things you have to work through with licences and zoning,” Bidinger said. “The problem is, the city has been shut down, and now there’s a backlog.” Now, the estimated opening is in July. When we interviewed Bidinger and Sharoff for our March issue, they spoke with a passion for collaboration, and that passion has helped Echo thrive during the shutdown. They have the rare perspective of a company who had to divert when it had barely taken its first steps. “The name of the game was just pivot, just make whatever we could out of whatever we could,” Sharoff recalled. With only one spirit—white rum—bottled for sale, it might seem like Echo was poised for rough times. However, they saw an upswing in sales when most other distilleries and breweries saw a downswing. 52

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Fortunately, they had stockpiled rum in anticipation of their opening, thinking they would focus on operations instead of distilling for the first weeks. This was a critical advantage when their suppliers also shut down. They sell on-premise in their spirit shop, not needing to depend completely on state stores and bars. In the past few months, they’ve been distilling test batches of Genever, for release later this summer. Genever is a malt whiskey enhanced with botanicals. Popular in the preprohibition United States, it was imported from western Europe 4:1 over its younger cousin, gin, and was the spirit used to develop most cocktails that we now make with that relative. They’re drafting plans to invite in the local bartending community to participate in selecting the botanical blend, making it a true Columbus spirit. When the bigger distilleries started selling out of hand sanitizer, Echo stepped in, using their own rum byproducts as well as wine and a sugar-based fermentation, packaging it in honey bears when they couldn’t source the usual bottles. “It was available, and it works,” Sharoff laughed. “[The sanitizer] was an enormous benefit in introducing people to us. Once we started spinning it up, people started coming in,” Bidinger said. “You go on NextDoor and say ‘We have rum,’ and people might listen, but say ‘We have hand sanitizer,’ and they flood in.” Seeing needs for both community and self-promotion, they then went online with a nine-week, Thursday night “Stay Home Cocktail Club.” The Echo team assembled some of the city’s best bartenders to cover a wide range of home bartending topics and recipes for beginners as well as aficionados. (The classes are available to watch on Echo’s Facebook page.) “We put together our cocktail class pretty much on the spot,” Sharoff said. “We weren’t going to be able to open, but we could get some engagement with local bartenders and get stuff out there for people who were stuck at home.” One of the requirements was that, each week, another local distillery’s product be featured along with Echo’s. Promoting the competition was a way to not only bring in followers of other distilleries, but also thank the businesses that the Echo team has learned from and support the industry as a whole during challenging times.

“We love distilling, but, to a degree, the reason we’re in this business is to get to do fun stuff with other smart, cool people around town,” Bidinger said. “You need that core lineup that pays the bills, but that allows you to do those offshoot, creative things.” The owners aren’t exactly disappointed that they haven’t opened yet. “We’ve never run this on a day-to-day basis anyway, let alone with these changes in place,” Bidinger noted. “Now, we have an opportunity to let some of the established bars and restaurants figure out how to do this, and take their best practices, and do it right.” • For more information about Echo Spirits Distilling Company, visit them at echospirits.com 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

SOUND SILENCE

Craft & Vinyl rallies small businesses struggling through the shutdown BY J.R. MCMILLA N PH OTO BY BRIAN KA I SER

Columbus has always been a creative crossroads, an intersection of ideas. When Troy Stacy opened his unlikely convergence of a record shop, impromptu studio, and craft beer counter, it already seemed like too much to squeeze under one roof. Yet in less than two years, the longshuttered hardware store in Grandview has also become a credible concert venue for up-and-coming artists, added an expanded menu of musically-inspired paninis, and even published a book to parallel their famous pairings of classic albums with beers that best suit them. Call it foresight or fate, the inclusive name Craft & Vinyl seems more apropos with 54

each new endeavor. “The initial idea was to bring together vinyl collectors, music makers, and craft beer lovers, but we didn't really anticipate bands knocking on the door and asking if they could play gigs here,” revealed Stacy. “The fact that someone would walk into our little space and want to bring their energy and creativity to our environment, I certainly invited it, but it took us a couple of months before we had the opportunity to build the stage, sound, and lighting they deserved.” Emerging acts often struggle to book shows unless they know the right folks or have members connected to groups that are already established. The gap between garage gigs and even a basement bar can be daunting, especially for those focused exclusively on their own songs. “It's really challenging to get those first gigs, even more challenging if an artist or band is all about original music. That's something that I love, music I've never heard before,” he explained. “There are a lot of great bands in our community who can bang out a cover and nail it. But I wanted to invite artists into this space and give them a platform to share music no one knows, an opportunity to engage audiences with something new.” That enviable momentum came to a screeching halt in mid March, and like every

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small business, essential or otherwise, the labyrinth of government programs offered more dashed hopes and promised relief. Like most folks in the music scene, his passion was preceded by a less glamorous gig, in his case the insurance industry. So when Stacy started his business in 2018, his insights for finding the right coverage were formidable, and the fight now looming with his insurance company could impact small businesses across the country also trying to recover. “We reached out to our insurer, Cincinnati Insurance, and our policy is in good standing. I have always paid my premiums,” Stacy noted, noting his coverage specifically includes losses incurred due to “prohibited access to the premises by civil authority”. “In fact days after they denied my claim, they sent me another premium notice. ‘Hey, don't forget to pay your bill, dude.’ I felt betrayed.” Point of fact, most commercial policies specifically exclude pandemics for a reason. More than a decade ago in the wake of the SARS epidemic, the industry lobbied Congress about the threat such losses could pose, crafting language to prevent claims during a crisis just like the one businesses face right now amid mandatory closures. “My attorney said first of all, right off the riff, we know this is going to impact more than a hundred businesses. We anticipate it's going

to affect thousands nationally, and we filed it in federal court,” he explained. “If the case proceeds as a class action, Cincinnati Insurance will have to open up their books to the courts and disclose every single policy holder that has a policy like mine.” Stacy is hardly alone in this fight. Even before seeking legal representation, he reviewed his policy’s fine print with former colleagues still in the insurance industry. The lack of exclusionary language seems to be an oversight, but a costly one that could serve as a legal precedent. Cincinnati Insurance Company covers numerous notable businesses in Ohio, but similar suits, raised mostly by restaurants, are also advancing in Louisiana and California. Wolfgang Puck is probably the most famous plaintiff so far, and even the White House has weighed in that if policies failed to exclude pandemics, then claims should be covered. “The denial letter had things in it that I never even discussed or claimed. That's when I knew they were putting me off, putting all claimants off, as they try to figure out what to do because they didn't write their policies properly,” Stacy revealed. “They're still out there taking money. I’m not sure what’s going to come of this, and I hope other businesses with policies like mine join the class action. At least now, Cincinnati Insurance knows my name, and I’m not alone.” Legal maneuvering and loss of business aside, what bothers Stacy most is still the loss of community. Local bands aren’t the only beneficiaries of his small stage. Students from Capital University Conservatory of Music and Groove U present their capstone projects there, and School of Rock uses their space for recitals. He even offers studio time to students who wouldn’t be able to afford it otherwise. Craft & Vinyl is committed to inspiring the next generation of musicians, now entering an industry whose future remains very uncertain. “We’ve built a Facebook following, but

it’s never been about making money as much as keeping customers engaged It helps

promote bands, and new music, and events like PickTown Palooza or our partnership with PromoWest that don’t necessarily happen at Craft & Vinyl, but exist in our universe,” he noted. “It keeps us connected, but it’s not the same. I miss the bands on my stage, the conversations at the bar. I miss the music, but I miss the people most. We all do, and we can’t wait to see each other again.” • For more on Craft & VinyI, and to reserve your copy of Pour and Play, visit craft-n-vinyl.com

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How Spoonful Records and Roll Bicycle Company keep spinning BY J. R . MC MI L L A N

It isn’t easy to outhustle Amazon. The point-and-click purveyor of everything certainly hasn’t been hurt by the current pandemic. It may be the only business immune to it. Meanwhile, small shops struggle to survive until they can reopen their doors. For many, the shift to direct delivery was born of necessity. With taprooms closed, local breweries were among the first to offer to-yourdoor service. But they aren’t the only ones rapidly reinventing the way they reach customers outside their retail space.

Spoonful Records

spoonful-records.myshopify.com The beloved local record shop never needed a robust internet presence, pushing off the prospect of online expansion for years. They assured patrons the reason their selection was so exhaustive was because you had to come into the store to shop. Unlike digital downloads, records aren’t really commodities. Condition matters and trusted curators who inspect and clean each album by hand are even more rare than some of their elusive inventory. “We stayed open by appointment for about a week, while I worked on the website, which was finished the same day the governor shut everything down,” explained Amy Kesting, who owns and operates the bustling album emporium with her husband Brett Ruland. “I think there were only 20 items, but every day we add a few more things. Our customers know they can have the same confidence buying from us, even online.” Kesting isn’t an amateur when it comes to the logistical challenges of online sales.

Though Ruland focuses on trends and follows new vinyl releases, Kesting concentrates on collections, acquiring the balance of classic and obscure albums that define Spoonful Records. A dot-com era stint processing artwork damaged during shipping also gave her more than a little apprehension about the prospects of making such fragile merchandise mail-order only. “From the get-go we had to figure out the right shipping price. A box cost $1.50—a good box, not the single-fold ones—and most media mail is like $3.50 to $4.50. So we're charging $5.85 for shipping, and if it was close by, we just started delivering them ourselves,” she explained. “I was like, I can drop this off in Bexley, or go to Upper Arlington today. No problem.” Local deliveries started by bicycle, but soon moved to excursions outside 270. They hired a driver to ensure same day deliveries when possible, but they still make extended record road trips themselves. “We let everyone know on Facebook when we’ll be in their area, and they can just add to the order. One day, we went to Marysville, Delaware, and Powell and made a huge trip of it, like 15 deliveries,” Kesting recalled. “It rained the whole time, but was totally worthwhile. It was kind of like couples time, listening to music together along the way.” Early enthusiasm has helped offset uncertainties about the future, particularly Record Store Day, the industry’s most notable annual event, already delayed twice. The retail closure has also afforded the opportunity to sort through a couple of recently acquired collections, not that Spoonful Records isn’t busy. “We try to be humble and realistic, but April was our best month in at least the last two or three years that wasn't a Record Store Day month or holiday sales month,” she noted. “We actually did more in sales through the website than we do normally in our brick and mortar. We’re so grateful everyone has been willing to support us through this, we wish we did it sooner.”

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Roll Bicycle Company rollbicycles.com

Launching a new location in the midst of a crisis may seem risky, but Roll is hardly a traditional retailer, offering the expertise absent from typical online sales experiences. With three Central Ohio locations and a fourth already scheduled to open, shifting gears was essential to meeting the needs of customers in an entirely new way through curbside service and at-home pickup and delivery. “We made the decision right from the outset to close our showrooms to the public out of an abundance of caution for the safety of our team and the community. It was a values-based decision for us,” revealed Stuart Hunter, founder and CEO of Roll Bicycle Company. “But that allowed us to quickly move to determining how to continue to best serve our team and our community while preserving our business.” The closure of gyms coupled with the inherent social distancing of outdoor activities actually increased interest in cycling for fitness and riding for recreation. It was a surge that came at the right time for Roll, which was already preparing for the beginning of their busy season. “At the time, no one anticipated a boom of people wanting to get outside and exercise. People were still reeling from the implications of what was happening and there was a lot of concern about whether we'd actually have a business coming out of the other end of this,” he confessed. “So we launched a brand new web platform within a space of four days from start to finish where we took our entire inventory online.” 58

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There was never a debate about whether bike shops were considered essential. Much like auto mechanics, selling and servicing bikes was a business that helped maintain transportation. But meeting customers at the door instead of inside and creating a pickup and delivery service from scratch were all unfamiliar terrain. “Another challenge that was unanticipated was just how much strain the change would take on our team, just the speed of adapting so quickly. Everyone was working really hard, but we were also burning out really fast,” Hunter recalled. “So we decided to close our stores briefly and give everyone a paid break to just go home, ride a bike, and take a pause before we came back.” Roll’s new Dublin store opened alongside existing locations in Bexley, Westerville, and Upper Arlington, but with new safety standards still in place. Though shortages have hit many retailers, regardless of industry, Roll’s evolution three years ago as a manufacturer of their own branded bicycles also helped smooth out supply chain disruptions of their signature product line. “Like any small business, there was an incredible amount of anxiety about our ability to survive. I was wondering whether the past 15 years of my life were coming to a close. We are fortunate enough to be in a category that has high demand,” he noted. “But we fully recognize not all of our peers in the entrepreneurial community are in the same situation. I look around and see great people having a hard time right now, and I've been really pleased to see how the community has rallied around local businesses we hope will return and thrive again soon.” • 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

You Smell So Good, Is That Purell You’re Wearing? BY JO H N M C L AU G H L I N

nly a few of us, the luckiest ones, will get to tell our grandchildren that we met our partners duringa pandemic. As a married man, I’m not one of those people. In fact, I was never even able to figure out the finer points of Tinder and Bumble. One of the things I do realize, however, is that we’re in the midst of an unprecedented time for modern romance. It feels a bit like the Wild West, lawless and undiscovered, but boasts surprisingly tender hidden gems. I sat down with three different Columbus residents who have dated in Columbus during the COVID-19 pandemic, and here’s what I learned. Tyler Campbell, 31, is a unique position romantically. He met his current girlfriend just weeks before Ohio’s quarantine was put into effect. “I had gone on two or three dates before the stay in place order happened and we made the decision to talk to each other from distance at first,” he said, noting the pair mutually agreed on adopting a cautious approach to their relationship. “We decided to take [the quarantine] very seriously. We’re both local with parents over 60, and we’re both concerned about giving the virus to them.” The couple knew a spark when they felt one, but made a conscious choice to not move forward just yet. However, after more time and plenty of FaceTime and

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phone calls had passed, it was clear the bond between the two was real, so they made things official. “We first thought we would just keep the fire warm, but we realized we had a stronger connection than we originally thought. We both assessed how we felt, and we had developed enough of a connection before things went down, so we decided to become a couple.” Tyler’s words here hit on a theme common among quarantined Columbus romance-seekers: we’re in a communication Renaissance. Yes, people who care for one another enjoy talking, and yes, healthy and efficient communication may be the single most important trait of a healthy relationship, but one thing everyone I interviewed noted was the way that quarantine dating afforded, or maybe even forced, couples to talk more than they would normally: to get know each other better, to develop a deeper, fuller bond. According to Campbell, this is coming from not only the fact that the pair is dating remotely, but also a massive influx of free time due to the pandemic. “I think because we’re limited in what we can do in our free time—we could only really just sit in our apartment—it’s easy to get lost in thoughts. We’ve definitely talked more now because it’s more of a distraction. It makes me more eager to listen and get to know somebody.”

According to Kevin Kwiatkowski, a 27 year old Columbus resident who has been casually dating the same person for the past three weeks, “This has allowed some people, myself included, to really try to get to know someone much better first and maybe not be so thrown into getting physical with a person.” “Sarah” (who wishes to remain anonymous) is a single in Columbus in her 20’s who is actively dating. She agrees. “It encourages you to keep getting to know people; you don't have the luxury of texting someone for a week and then going to get drinks. You have to work it out a little bit without that.” And while all of the people I talked with agreed this was an unforeseen benefit of quarantine, like any new situation, there are going to be pitfalls you may not be aware of. And not having the physical aspect of a relationship to fall back on can be difficult. According to Louisa Canneto, a matchmaker and online dating coach at Dating Directions, a Columbus matchmaking service, quarantine daters should be open

and honest about what they’re comfortable with and not, but discussing the pandemic too much outside of practical purposes — while it may be easy an easy topic to ease an awkward silence or two—can actually backfire. “What not to talk about with first dates: sex, politics, and religion. Now, overly negative issues like certain aspects of the pandemic can be on that list too,” she said. •

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“We’re really prone to talking about the thing on the top of our minds, but sometimes it can take away from the atmosphere of our date.” So now what to do about the actual dating part? Well, it seems like there really isn’t one answer. It depends on what both people are comfortable with, adding another interesting twist to the already complicated helix of compatibility. While Campbell and his girlfriend are officially a couple, they have chosen to not go on any physical dates yet. They always find time to take part in Tuesday night FaceTime dates though, in addition to regular daily communication. Others have found great ways of getting creative with the dating process while still saying safe. Sarah has gone on two different dates with the same person. The first time, the pair met in their own cars, parked side by side, and talked with the windows open. Soon after, they walked Sarah’s dog together while maintaining social distance. While the paradox of going on a date with someone you can’t be physically close to might seem strange at first, she wasn’t aware of any discomfort this caused. “It didn’t add any awkwardness, at least for me. I talked with this person for a decent amount of time, so we got most of that out of the way beforehand.” Kwiatkowski has also gone on a socially distanced date to Goodale Park with the person he’s seeing. And just like physical meetups, intimacy is also something people are having to navigate on the fly. There’s no right or wrong way to move forward with it, and everyone I spoke with agrees this requires clear, direct communication beforehand, as comfort levels seem to be all across the board. “You’re kind of going to reach that point after a certain amount of time, and I think that’s why it’s so important to say where we are right now and exactly what we’re comfortable with,” Kwiatkowski said. “Constant dialogue and constant communication in pandemic times is essential.”

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" Tyler’s words here hit on a theme common among quarantined Columbus romance-seekers: we’re in a communication Renaissance. "

According to Canneto, this is a way for Columbus residents currently dating to understand their potential relationship partner a bit better, and really gauge if they’re talking to the right person . While there’s no guideline about where anyone’s comfort levels should be, a compatible partner will understand and respect yours fully. “If you’re in the process of getting to know someone and you’re made to feel anything other than supported that’s a really major red flag,” she said. “One of the marks of a healthy relationship is that we respect one another’s wishes and what we need to feel safe. It takes patience, and realizing that everyone is going to be in a different place right now.” •

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Two Arts Collide Combining art forms, FERA hopes to reinvigorate the Columbus denim scene. STORY AND PHOTOS BY JULIA N FOGLI ET T I

hen Jason Dowel was a kid, his grandfather took him to the grocery store and asked him to grab a box of matches. Upon bringing the box back, his grandfather asked why he picked the brand he did. Jason replied, “It was the cheapest one on the shelf.” His grandfather walked him back and pointed out that the more expensive ones were made in America. Buying those meant supporting jobs for other americans. While the lesson was small, it was one that stuck with Jason throughout his life, and that attention to a product's origin is apparent in every aspect of Fera. Taking its name from Indigofera, the plant which gives denim its signature color, the store operates as a gallery for the world of high-end denim, a product which is anything but new to Jason. Having spent much of his life in retail working at boutiques such as Dr. Mojoe and Voodoo Denim Lounge, Jason has spent years building the library of knowledge on display at FERA. The store has a distinct styling that feels pulled from the streets of San Francisco. Missing is the rock and roll aesthetic often associated with denim shops. In its place is a brightly lit store, filled with natural wood furnishings and plants galore. “I think it (denim) needed a more modern twist. I've seen that it's always been more rugged. But I feel like fashion, and denim is actually becoming more modern. You know, it’s an everyday piece and in today's fashion, it's becoming super clean and is ready to become something more.” When Jason speaks about denim, it’s rarely ever as clothing and always in the realm of art. In the world of FERA, denim is more akin to a canvas to which designers construct artwork that can be worn everyday. This attention to detail is present in all of the brands sourced for the store, many of which are hard to come by elsewhere in the United States, but also made clear by the oftentimes eye-watering price tags. As Jason puts it, “The clothing I bring in is about paying attention to where it comes 64

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from. You can spend hundreds of dollars on designer clothing, or you can spend that money to support someone who is waking up everyday cutting, sewing, designing, and constructing the very garment you're wearing. The clothing here is meant to exist at an intersection between art and craft, where the craftsmanship allows a part of the maker to exist in the clothing itself.” While FERA has been working hard to change up denim in Columbus, the past few months had other plans. FERA held their opening the day before Governor Dewine ordered the shutdown of all non-essential business, and for a business working to undo the narrative of ecommerce, switching to all online sales was a challenge.

“I think it (denim) needed a more modern twist. I've seen that it's always been more rugged. But I feel like fashion, and denim is actually becoming more modern. “The pandemic was hard, because quality denim isn’t something you shop for online. You need to try it on, and delivering that experience digitally isn’t easy. I wanted FERA to be a place for community, a place for workshops and events to bring people together and teach them about this artform and others.” As sales increasingly go online, however, FERA has been looking to other methods of offering that personal touch at a time when everyone is distancing. Currently, they are working to bring the education side of their mission through video content on platforms like IGTV, as well as scheduling one-onone appointments where people can come in and learn more about the individual designers and the methods employed in their clothing. To further Fera’s uniqueness, it partnered with Jeremy Rike of Loft Nine to bring a barbershop booth into the back of the space. “I had seen something similar done on a trip to Nashville and told Jay (Jason) that if he ever opened up a shop, I’d love to build a space in the back for hair,” says Jeremy. The finished combination creates a unique space to fully design a personal style from the ground up. “Hair is such an extension of personal style. When a client comes in, it's about building a style that naturally fits who they are. I’m really lucky to be partnered with Jay, given the way he looks at clothing. The way he puts pants on someone, you can immediately see the confidence it gives them. It’s that personal approach that I try to take when styling hair.” As the world is set back into motion, Jason seems hopeful for the future of the store and the community he hopes to build through it. “As soon as we’re allowed to be more social again, I’m hoping to bring in some artists to run workshops. Maybe do some proper indigo dyeing workshops, or have a ceramicist or painter talk about their craft and process. I really want the space to be a place to gather and talk about the incredible craft in this city.” • 614NOW.COM JUNE 2020 (614) MAGAZINE

QUARANTINE FASHION PH OTOS BY JU L I A N FO G L I E TTI

FEATURIN G HO M M E BO DY // H O MME BO D Y O FFIC IAL. C O M R A NS O M S UP P LY C O . // R O O KIE -R AN SO M. MY SH O P IFY. C O M F ER A C O . // WWW. FE R A. C O 66

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« T OP BY HOMMEBODY STAY AT HOME CLUB HOODIE

» B OTTOMS BY HOMMEBODY STAY AT HOME CLUB SWEATPANTS

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« HAT BY GIGIPIP STAY AT HOME CLUB HOODIE BANDANA BY RANSOM SUPPLY CO HERE//NOW BANDANA NAVY FACE MASK BY RANSOM SUPPLY CO. SUN DYE HANDMADE MASK

« TOP BY PERFECT WHITE TEE WHITE TANK

» BOTTOMS BY ROLL A SAILOR JEAN - CREAM

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Â» TOP BY RANSOM SUPPLY CO. TIE DYE HOODIE BOTTOMS BY HOMMEBODY ALL ALONE SWEATPANTS

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(614) MAGAZINE JUNE 2020 614NOW.COM ALL PRODUCTS CAN BE PURCHASED AT FERA BESIDES HOMMEBODY (ONLINE ONLY)

Â« F ACE MASK BY RANSOM SUPPLY CO. BL ACK STITCH HANDMADE MASK JAC KET BY MATIAS DYL AN TRUCKER JK T - RUDY SHIRT BY PERFECT WHITE TEE GREY JEANS BY MATIAS RIVERA - NOIR

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#ASSEENINCOLUMBUS It’s difficult for us here at (614) to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. We’ll throw a few of ours in the mix, too. There’s plenty to see in Columbus, so there’s no reason not to share.

#AsSeenInColumbus

@a_girl_named_duck

@camtaylorco

@paulied1977

@thedoublemerle_daredevil

@dpoh

@huaongvr

@babesontrend

@mjomii

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@abilynneyoga

@bestcocktails

@citizendorians

@whiskeyandwavesco

@bigbreezy72

@noahjwilliamson @chocolatecafecolumbus

@katalinascafe

The new corner office.

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