Our love for noodles runs deep, so we’ve dedicated our cover section to the incredible pasta-centric dishes you can find throughout Central Ohio. We’ve featured homemade spaghetti from Columbus’ oldest Italian restaurant, a chow mein packed with bold flavors only found at our local Nepali eateries, and even hand-pulled noodles at the local newcomer offering Italian-style noodles with an Asian twist, plus so much more
MASTERFUL RECIPE
Local MasterChef contestant Wayne Lewis dishes out his sinful bacon cheeseburger & beer soup
A GOOD BLEND
Hilliard’s Firefly Winery–the results of a decades-long dream for its owners–offers a versatile wine list, well-rounded menu, and a little bit of everything in its atmosphere
SIP & STAY
Columbus bartenders create original cocktails inspired by locations throughout the city in our new video series
SMALL BUT MIGHTY
Operating in one of the smallest shops in the city, Clintonville’s Two Tigers Coffee focuses on doing coffee the right way
COAST TO TOAST
Abdul Nagi, owner of a Yemeni coffee shop, is now bringing culinary sandwiches to Hilliard through Pine Coast Café
CINCINNATI CHILI ROUNDUP
These six Queen City spots are must-trys for all Ohio chili lovers
BREAKING BREAD
Meet the new, cozy bakery serving up scrumptious sourdough and fluffy focaccia, all with the community in mind
SNACK ATTACK: RIDICULOUS RAMEN
From carbonara to chili cheese, editor Jack McLaughlin tries the three most unique cup noodles varieties we could find
LAST MAX AND ERMAS
Columbus historian John M. Clark dives into the history of the Lancaster Max & Erma’s, the only remaining Central Ohio location of the Columbus-born restaurant chain
From the Editor
JACK MCLAUGHLIN Editor-In-Chief
Oodles and Oodles
Noodles help to remind me of–in the grand scheme of things– just how little I know. But in a good way.
Let me explain.
According to research from Colorado State University, there are at least 350 different types of pasta shapes that are commercially available.
This includes formulations like Cascatelli, which is Italian for “waterfall,” resembling a miniature spray of water or a wave; Acini De Pepe, a series of infinestesimally-small pasta spheres (traditionally used in Italian wedding soup); and even the Shelbow, a fun–albeit slightly bizarre–combination of the elbow and shell shapes.
It’s remarkable, in a way, that Penne Ziti (which is smooth) and Penne Riate (penne with a series of ridges) are classified as entirely different shapes, and that each one has its own distinct purpose. It’s not just penne, either. So many varieties are differentiated from each other by details that appear at first minute, but actually make a world of difference in terms of application.
And let’s not even get into preparations, like when to stir-fry, or when to splash some pasta water back into the pan to make a sauce. The list goes on and on.
While I am by no means a good cook–or even a competent one, for that matter–I do write often about
food for a living, and typically think I have a decent grasp on the culinary sector.
The deceptively massive world of pasta makes me question this, though. It makes me realize how little I actually know about noodles. When should I use Manicotti versus Mezzi Rigatoni? I have literally no idea.
I can expand this to not only noodles, but the world at large. There are experts in everything, because there is so much to know. Whether it’s violin acoustics or hot sauce fermentation, it takes an immeasurable amount of passion and energy to really know something.
And weirdly enough, it’s when I realize how little I know about something that I’m most excited to learn about it.
Let’s (again!) take noodles for example. I’m insatiably curious, and the possibility of learning all the wild varieties of noodles, how they’re made and when and while each specific one is implemented, excites me. You know, the whole “The Lost World” thing.
This is what we hope our winter issue of Stock & Barrel instills in our readers, even just a little bit. Sure, you might at first be overwhelmed by the number–and variety–of Columbus noodle dishes. But then you’ll realize there’s a whole wide world out there. And that’s there’s nothing stopping you, or any of us, from exploring it.
CALENDAR
It may be cold & dreary outside, but what if we told you we have just the trick to warm up your soul and spirit? There’s nothing quite like handmade bowls of pasta, sharing Spanish tapas with a group of friends, letting loose at a bar crawl with stops at your favorite Columbus establishments, and trying some new beers to get through the winter.
There are oodles of noodles to pick as our favorite, but our team here at (614) Magazine has that one noodle type & shape that holds a special place in our hearts.
mac and cheese. IYKYK.
Jack
McLaughlin
Editor in Chief
I love Lo Mein, so I’ll go with egg noodles!
Tori Smith Creative Designer
Bowtie – it’s such a fun shape!
Meg Rhoads Creative Designer
Bucatini! Specifically from Speck. It’s like spaghetti, but has a hole in the middle to hold more sauce.
Sav McKee Assistant Editor
Rigatoni – it’s an essential part of my vodka pasta recipe!
Zoe King Social Media Manager
This is so hard, but I guess angel hair.
Lizzy Saunders
Events Coordinator & Brand Manager, 614 Lager
LINGUINE!
Meghan Chapman Account Executive
Andrew Thomas
Creative Coordinator
Bryce Patterson
Creative Designer
PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING
↑ Carfagna’s Pomodoro Basilico Pasta Sauce
There’s a reason this pasta sauce has been a Central Ohio favorite since 1937 – their homemade, jarred, extra thick, traditional sauce roasted with tomato filets, garlic, and basil is as authentic as you can get here in Columbus. And the best part? You can find it at most of your local grocery stores, or at Carfagna’s Market.
↑
COLO Market’s Caviar Offerings
Caviar is back – and Coastal Local Seafood offers some of the best black gold you can find in town. Impress your guests this holiday season with a Paddlefish caviar by visiting COLO’s booths at North Market Downtown or North Market Bridge Park.
↑ Tigertree’s ‘Penne Pals’ Notecards & Envelopes
For all those who show their love through food, but find themselves long-distance from their friends and family, these pasta pun notecards & envelopes are perfect. They all feature fullcolor noodle illustrations, punny phrases, and cheesy greetings. Tigertree also offers a Raviolo Necklace, a Ravioli Keychain, a Farfalle Rug, and other pasta-related items. Shop online at shoptigertree.com, or in-person at their Clintonville storefront.
↑ RUMI’s Holiday Spice Candle
This Granville-based, woman-owned business handpours some of the coziest candles around using 100% soy wax infused with premium fragrances, always hand-crafted in small batches. Try the Holiday Spice, with clove, oak and sandalwood. Order online at rumicandles.com., or find them at The Hills Market.
Elbow Macaroni, like in Mac & Penne.
Cheddar
Did you know that (614) has a YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? It’s true. We've expanded our ever-growing content to include video across our web and magazine stories. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, check out the newest videos on our channel:
• Snack Attack: Ridiculous Ramen!
Spicy, obscure, and plain weird. We rounded up three of the most unique ramen varieties we could find and tried them – so you don’t have to.
• Slurping Turtle | Tasting Columbus Subscribe to 614TV for more stories on the people, places, and things that inspire Columbus.
• An All American Diner with a Delicious "Secret"
The All American Jennys Diner sports one not so well kept secret. Its a menu full of mouthwateringly delicious food!
In
• A Tequila Twist on the Cosmopolitan | Sip & Stay #4
Sip & Stay, local bartenders craft unique cocktails inspired by the history and character of the local places they visit.
# EAT614
It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on nstagram to put your photos on our radar.
ITALIAN authentic CUISINE
If you make this recipe, SCAN HERE to tell me how it went on Instagram!
Local MasterChef contestant Wayne Lewis dishes out his sinful bacon cheeseburger & beer soup
theSOUPyOUrDOCtO r
Bacon Cheeseburger & Beer Soup (Serves 8-10)
CHEF WAYNE LEWIS Founder, 614 Media Group
This soup isn’t going to be endorsed by a cardiologist anytime soon, but when it comes to Soup Season™, a little indulgence can be life affirming. If you’re a cheeseburger aficionado, this Bacon Cheeseburger + Beer soup just hits. It’s one of those rare dishes where the title perfectly evokes what the dish actually tastes like. It’s like sinking your teeth in a smashburger, dripping with warm cheddar cheese, a hint of smoky bacon, and the crisp tang of pickle.
Make no mistake – this soup is a meal unto itself. Especially when served in a scooped out of a bread bowl (the Panera ones are perfect for this).
For a garnish, I love a diced spicy pickle to give it a little more texture along with the signature pickle tang. Throw in a few croutons for even more crunch. Do yourself a favor and shred a block of cheese rather than the pre-shredded stuff that may struggle to melt due to the anti-stick additives. If you have a food processor, the shredding wheel makes quick work of it.
Now pick out a nice, freezing cold day this winter and make yourself a pot of this sinful but oh-so-delicious soup.
INGREDIENTS
8oz Thick cut bacon
1.5lb 80/20 ground beef
1/3C All-purpose flour
2tbsp Montreal Steak Seasoning
2tsp Smoked Paprika
1 can (614) Lager
INSTRUCTIONS
• Warm a large pot over high heat.
4.5C Heavy cream (half & half will make it lighter)
20oz Medium cheddar cheese, freshly shredded (don't buy pre-shredded!)
Garnish with butter & garlic croutons and diced spicy dill pickles
• Roughly chop bacon into pot and cook bacon until lightly crisp, stirring occasionally. Using a slotted spoon, remove and set aside bacon.
• Add beef to the pot, breaking the beef up with a wooden spoon. Cook until well browned.
• Remove and set aside the cooked beef and bacon, leaving about ¼ cup of drippings in the pan.
• Turn the heat down to low and stir in flour slowly using a whisk to make a roux, cooking/whisking for 1-2 min.
• Add seasoning & spices and cook for 1 min more.
• Add beer and scrape the bottom of the pot with a spoon to deglaze the pan, allowing it to cook for 3 minutes until you have a thick roux-like texture and the alcohol has cooked off.
• Turn the heat on medium, then add cream. Stir to combine and cook until just starting to bubble.
• Turn off the heat and add cheese in large handfuls, stirring until each handful is melted. Keep the pot on warm heat until ready to serve, stirring occasionally.
• Garnish with croutons and/or pickles. Bonus points: serve in bread bowls from Panera!
In our new video podcast series,”Sip & Stay,” Brown-Forman brand ambassador “Whiskey” Pete Wagner teaches Columbus how to make a fun riff on the classic Cosmopolitan
Like Columbus? Like craft cocktails? You’re in luck. Our new video series “Sip & Stay” sends some of the city’s best behind the bar to different locations around Columbus, where they create an original cocktail inspired by the setting of each episode.
The fourth installment of the series follows Brown-Forman brand ambassador “Whiskey” Pete Wagner to The Normandy, a community located in Downtown Columbus.
Drawing inspiration from the action and energy of Downtown–and some of the city’s most popular gathering spots, like The Roosevelt, Pins Mechanical
Co. and Jackie O’s on Fourth, all of which are just a stone’s throw away–”Whiskey” Pete crafts the Casa-Politan, a riff on the classic Cosmopolitan that swaps vodka for tequila.
Scan the QR code below to check out Episode 4, and be on and be on the lookout for regular episodes of “Sip & Stay” on YouTube. For shorter, quickhitting content, our Instagram page will also feature “Sip & Stay Shorts,” which highlight flagship cocktail recipes from your favorite local bars and restaurants.
If you want to make the CasaPolitan for yourself, here’s how “Whiskey” Pete does it:
-1.5 oz of Herradura Tequila
-1.5 oz cranberry juice
-¾ oz aperol
-½ oz sweet vermouth
-½ oz lime juice
-orange twist garnish
Add fresh ice, shake and enjoy!
↓ Co-Owner Joe Hollabaugh pours a glasss behind the bar
Hilliard’s Firefly Winery–the results of a decades-long dream for its owners–offers a versatile wine list, well-rounded menu, and a little bit of everything in its atmosphere
When you step inside, you’re greeted not just by the rich aromas of handcrafted wines, but by a space that feels like home—a cozy, elegant retreat where every detail is thoughtfully crafted by the owners themselves. Firefly is the result of years of dedication, deeply rooted in a decades-long involvement in Ohio’s wine industry and inspired by his fond memories of lively Youngstown gatherings, where family and friends came together over hearty dishes like cavatelli, meatballs, and other Italian flavors that, in spirit, pair perfectly with any glass of wine.
Co-owner Joe Hollabaugh’s journey to opening Firefly spans nearly 20 years. He began with consulting, setting up wine labs, and crafting wines for wineries across Ohio, always holding onto the dream of someday opening his own place. He envisioned a laid-back gathering spot where friends and neighbors could sip great vino without trekking to the countryside. “We started seriously looking about five years ago,” Joe recalled. The catch? The winery had to be within two miles of their house. After some dead ends, their search took a serendipitous turn thanks to a Facebook post Jenny made in a local mom’s group, which eventually connected them to a developer and led them to the perfect location in the ever-expanding Old Hilliard district.
The name “Firefly” is a nod to Tony Bennett’s classic song—a tune that holds a special place for the duo, filled with the nostalgic warmth they wanted to share in their winery. Jenny, Joe’s wife and co-owner, explained that the name perfectly captures everything they envisioned: a cozy, inviting space where guests can relax and unwind. Subtle references to the song’s lyrics are woven throughout Firefly’s decor and wine labels, adding an extra layer of charm and mystery for guests to uncover, and making each visit feel like a glimpse into the heart of their story.
Inside, Firefly’s ambiance is inviting and distinctly unpretentious. The Hollabaughs wanted something upscale yet approachable— ideal for a date night or a relaxed evening with friends. “We’re not competing with anyone here; we’re filling a gap,” Jenny noted. Their wine list is just as versatile as the atmosphere, offering everything from dry reds to playful slushies and wine cocktails. Joe emphasized their desire to keep wine accessible: “We wanted it to be approachable. However you like to drink wine, there’s something here for you.”
Every bottle at Firefly is crafted in small batches on-site, giving
By Lindsey Escaja
Photos By Aaron Massey Story Design by Bryce Patterson
"We wanted it to be approachable. However you like to drink wine, there’s something here for you."
↓ Firefly Cabernet Sauvignon
↓ Exterior of Firefly Winery
↓ Blue Cheese Bruschetta from Firefly Winery
the wine an intimate, exclusive quality. Joe sources grapes from California and Washington for reds and from upstate New York for whites, always prioritizing quality. “There’s only one blend, and we make about 130 cases of it. Once it’s gone, it’s gone,” he said. Jenny’s favorite is their flagship white blend, Noon Glow, featuring Vidal and Sauvignon Blanc. Joe favors Moon Glow, a bold red blend of Petite Syrah and Cabernet. Each wine is inspired by song lyrics, adding a unique story and character that Jenny described as “impossible to recreate.”
Firefly’s winemaking process is refreshingly natural. Joe’s attention to quality means he avoids additives and preservatives, relying instead on cold stabilization for his whites and handson control for every batch. “Your wine is only as good as your grapes,” he said, underscoring his commitment to quality. Each bottle is crafted start to finish at Firefly, never leaving the building, which Joe believes is a major advantage. “We don’t have to add preservatives because nothing leaves,” he noted.
Beyond the wine, Firefly is a place to celebrate community. Plans for tours and tastings are underway, offering guests a glimpse into the winemaking process and the chance to try wines at different stages.
Jenny and Joe encourage first-timers to explore wine flights or pairings that showcase the best of Firefly’s food menu. Pair the smoked blue cheese chips with Noon Glow, with the chips’ rich gorgonzola, smoked blue cheese, caramelized onions, and Calabrian chile honey beautifully complementing the wine’s fresh notes of grapefruit and tropical fruit. The wine’s crisp finish refreshes the palate, balancing the savory and smoky flavors.
For a heartier choice, the muffuletta sandwich and Firefly Red Blend are a natural fit. The sandwich’s bold layers of salami, soppressata, mortadella, fontina, and olives meet their match in the red blend’s medium body, firm tannins, and lively acidity.
Running Firefly is truly a family affair, and every detail reflects the Hollabaughs’ hands-on approach. From polishing silverware to stocking shelves, Jenny and Joe are involved in every aspect of the winery. Jenny expressed gratitude for their team, who she described as “more like family than staff,” with a shared dedication to Firefly’s success. “We’ve learned every task necessary,” she said, “from bussing tables to designing labels.” Her voice wavered as she reflected on the support and positivity their staff brings to the winery daily.
For the Hollabaughs, Firefly Winery is a dream turned reality, a gathering place where every glass tells a story. Whether you’re a wine connoisseur or a casual sipper, Firefly invites you to find a little light, a touch of magic, and a taste of something truly you won’t soon forget. ♦
By Jordan Abbruzzese
Everything at Two Tigers Coffee is small. The drinks are small. The menu is small. The space is small, at about six feet wide. But at just two ounces, a shot of their handcrafted espresso packs a punch with almost as much caffeine as a regular, full cup of coffee.
And that’s the perfect metaphor for Two Tigers – small, but mighty.
At the heart of the shop, located at 3341 N. High St. in Clintonville, is owner Tony Hodgson. Tony is not just a coffeeenthusiast, but the man who built the mobile cart where it all started.
Tony’s love of coffee goes back, well, always, but can specifically be traced back to his college days frequenting a café close to his university in Missouri. He can remember the owner using a lever machine, and feeling like he was watching “the man behind the curtain” in The Wizard of Oz, with the magical espresso-maker creating great and powerful walls of steam.
“He’s the first guy I asked, ‘What’s a cortado?’” Tony remembered. “And he made me one. Now, I’m that guy in the shop with a lever machine, answering ‘What’s a cortado?’ when someone new to coffee comes in. It’s a nice full-circle moment.”
Although Tony has an unparalleled love for espresso and community, he hasn’t always been in the coffee scene. After moving to Ohio with his wife in 2019, Tony was working remotely in the early days of the pandemic. A year into his workfrom-home desk job, he realized he couldn’t do it anymore.
“I’m too much of a people-person,” Tony explained. “I had always dreamed about quitting my day job to start serving coffee. So, that’s what I did.”
In early 2021, Tony quit his 9-5 and started working at a local coffee shop in Columbus to learn the ropes. A year later, he gave his own coffee cart a try.
Photos By Tyler Jamison Story Design by Bryce Patterson
↓ Exterior of Two Tigers Coffee
↑ Two Tigers Interior
↓ Two Tigers Menu
“I could build the cart in my driveway,” Tony recalled. “I could buy used equipment, and didn’t have to get a loan or commit to a lease. I had never owned a business before, and at the time, there wasn’t really anyone else in Columbus proper doing a coffee cart – especially in the espresso landscape.”
By fall 2022, Two Tigers Coffee was doing small pop-ups at vintage markets, like Pop-Up Pickers Club in Columbus, and began adding private events with curated signature coffee drinks. When 2024 rolled around, Tony was looking for a permanent place to serve coffee regularly.
“I wanted to build a community and relationships while serving coffee more often,” said Tony. “Things had been changing in the coffee scene for a while. The third wave coffee movement made people not want chain-coffee styled espresso anymore. Coffee started to move away from ‘Central Perk’ settings like in Friends, for example, and went more toward minimalistic aesthetics and artisanal drinks.”
When a little place on High Street became available, Tony didn’t hesitate. The space had enough room to operate out of the original coffee cart, while offering a couple seats for people to hang around and sip their drinks. Tony completely built out the inside of the shop himself while partnering with The Brass Hand Clintonville, an experiential plant and gift shop, to create a welcoming atmosphere and add a vintage touch.
↓ Two Tigers barista making a drink
“I always wanted to be in Clintonville,” Tony explained. “I love that whole strip of businesses on High St., and now I get to be a part of it. There are little boutiques, plants, a place for skate decks, and ice cream. It was an immediate ‘yes’ when I knew I could fit into the space.”
Two Tigers’ new location has previously been an incubator space for other growing businesses. Throughout the years, the building has seen tattoo parlors, art galleries, and homekeeping stores. His current neighbor, Rock Candy Healing Stones, was even in there for a time. Two Tigers is now part of the evolution of the location, while Tony takes his time to thoughtfully create drinks for customers.
After all, the Two Tigers’ philosophy is that it’s important to do coffee really well.
“I think a lot about specialty coffee that goes all the way along the supply chain,” Tony said. “All coffee beans are usually hand-picked, and then dried. The beans are packaged carefully so they don’t grow mold, and then are roasted deliberately. After all this work, I want to bring it all the way home with a good cup of coffee. I owe it to everyone who worked to prepare it well.”
“I always wanted to be in Clintonville. I love that whole strip of businesses on High St., and now I get to be a part of it.”
Two Tigers boasts a simple but intentionally selected menu, focusing on the basics of coffee. They don’t upcharge for oat milk, or dive into specialty flavors with syrups. At any time, they have four different coffees on espresso, all provided by different locally-owned roasters from around the country, designating Two Tigers as a “multi-roaster shop.” Tony recognizes the care that goes into roasting beans, and wants to work with passionate roasters, while he concentrates on making the best drinks possible.
After only being open a few months, Two Tigers Coffee has already become a Clintonville neighborhood hub, with locals walking over from their homes down the street or after dropping their kids off at school.
As they continue to become established in their new address, Two Tigers Coffee won’t turn into 10 different mobile carts all over the city, or open up multiple locations. Instead, Tony will continue refining the experience in his shop, and improving what he already offers.
“I don’t want to be the biggest shop in Columbus,” Tony said. “I don’t want to start roasting. I want to keep working with other people who are good at what they do. I love Columbus, and the food and drink scene here. It’s great just to be a part of it.”
Grab a cappuccino at Two Tigers Coffee Wednesday - Friday, from 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and follow @twotigerscoffee on Instagram for more details.
Coast to toast
↑ Pine Coast Cafe’s Classic Philly Cheesesteak with fries
First he launched a Yemeni coffee shop. Now, Abdul Nagi is bringing culinary
Café to Hilliard through a new venture, Pine Coast Sandwiches
By Melinda Green / Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Meg Rhoads
I
n a quiet plaza on Hilliard Rome Road, tucked among residential neighborhoods, Pine Coast Café is making a name for itself in the fast-casual dining scene.
In its first few months, Pine Coast has established a foothold among the locals, and the owners already have plans to expand.
“A couple weeks ago, I was very busy, and I see a line of people coming to get their food,” co-owner Abdul Nagi said. “And I asked one of them, ‘What's going on today?’ They said, ‘You're all over the radio talk show. People love what you have. They love you. Calling in, asking how do you try the smash burgers? How do we try kimchi cheesesteaks?’ I was surprised. That was very nice.”
Pine Coast does steady business, even mid-afternoon on a weekday, especially with carryout and DoorDash orders.
And when Pine Coast is open, it’s a good bet that Nagi is there. He’s nonstop energy, filling orders, cleaning, restocking, and greeting customers. “I'm working almost seven days, open to close,” he admitted. “See, people love it. I love it. The best words I have from customers are, ‘I’ll be back.’ People eat good, live happy, come back. I see the same faces coming back, and that means a lot.”
He emphasized, “That's why I'm always here. That's more than money to me.”
Pine Coast was founded in Dearborn, Michigan (just west of Detroit) by Nagi’s nephew Moneer Abdo, an emergency medicine doctor with a passion for food.
“He loves food,” Nagi said. “And he studied this for almost five years while he was doing his medical [training] all over. And then he said, ‘I got something good, healthy for people to try.’ He opened his first one in Michigan and within six months, you have people drive from Canada to Detroit to eat. He got so popular.”
So popular, in fact, that Abdo recently opened a third location—providing sandwiches and coffee in Milwaukee’s Kidcadia Play Café.
But as for the Hilliard café, it’s the culmination of Nagi’s lifelong love for food. Born in Yemen, he’s lived on both coasts of the United States, although he spent most of his life in Michigan. He briefly owned a Mediterranean restaurant and other businesses, then worked as a load agent for Delta Airlines for thirty years.
A friend in the Columbus area suggested Nagi come to Ohio and open a coffee shop in Hilliard. “He told me Hilliard would be a good place for organic coffee. And he was right,” Nagi recalled. That shop, Qamaria Yemeni Coffee Co., sits just a few doors down from Pine Coast. →
“Hilliard turned out to be very well,” he said. “I get to know the community, the people, Ohio more. And now I'm a Buckeye guy!” (So much a Buckeye guy that he cautioned Abdo to replace the Michigan scenic photographs in the café with Ohio, telling him, “You bring this here, you're in trouble.”)
“So we love the area so much, I told my nephew I need to open Pine Coast right here,” he continued.
The location, a former ice cream shop, was a stroke of luck. Not only is it a few doors down from Qamaria; it’s next to a Cookie Cutters hair salon. That means Nagi sees not only Qamaria patrons coming over, but also a lot of families stopping in before and after haircuts, and he’s kept the ice cream front and center.
The menu isn’t extensive, but it’s top-notch. The food is halal, and is definitely all-American: smashburgers, cheesesteaks, salads, chicken, kids’ items, and soft drinks—with a few twists.
Take, for example, the Kimchi Cheesesteak: freshly grilled, shaved ribeye meets the unexpected crunch of kimchi on a sub roll. It’s complex, it’s tasty, and, best of all, it doesn’t fall apart while you’re eating it.
Or the vegan Ultimate Veggie, with mushroom, zucchini, grilled onions, artichoke, and red peppers. “It's very, very fresh. We cut it, throw it on the grill right away, and serve it,” Nagi said.
“We limited the sandwiches, basically,” he continued. “Those are the main things. And they are, all of them, very popular. Everything is fresh and halal. Nothing frozen. When people taste it, they know the freshness.”
He continued, “One guy told me, ‘This is the same when I make it at home, when I barbecue.’ This tastes amazing because this is fresh meat. You can't go wrong. We have people driving sometimes 45 minutes for a Reuben here.”
“THE BEST WORDS I HAVE FROM CUSTOMERS ARE, ‘I’LL BE BACK.’ PEOPLE EAT GOOD, LIVE HAPPY, COME BACK. I SEE THE SAME FACES COMING BACK, AND THAT MEANS A LOT.”
↑ Pine Coast’s Classic Reuben with Sweet Potato Fries
Business is so good, in fact, that Nagi and his business partners are already planning a few more cafés around the Columbus area—but they’re not disclosing where yet. “I think there's a lot of neighborhoods that would really like [it],” Nagi said. “It's different than any fast food. The name is ‘fast food,’ but it's fresh and healthy.”
So, for now, you’ll have to get your fresh sandwich fix in Hilliard—and rest assured that the Hilliard location isn’t going anywhere. As Nagi watched a DoorDash order leave, he said, “You gotta love America. Wherever you go, nothing but love. Ohio is an amazing place. Good people. I feel like it's the place to be. And I’m a Buckeye now. This is going to be home for me."
↑ Pine Coast Cafe’s owner Abdul Nagi
↑ Strawberry Cheesecake Ice Cream from Pine Coast Cafe
Break Bread
Meet the new, cozy bakery serving up scrumptious
sourdough and
fluffy focaccia, all with the community in mind
By
Awarm, yellow storefront the color of melted butter with an image of a sleepy bear now on the window greets you as you make your way into the King-Lincoln Bronzeville neighborhood on Columbus’ East Side.
Welcome to Yawning Bear Bread Co., your new neighborhood bakery at 999 Mt. Vernon Ave. The name, born from tired days and nights following owner Liz Brett’s 24-hour baking marathons, evokes a comfort that can only come from freshly made bread and hot drip coffee.
Liz had been scaling her artisan bread company since 2021, and was ready to have a permanent home. After beginning at farmers markets in Clintonville, Bexley, and other parts of Columbus, Yawning Bear Bread now has their first brick-and-mortar location.
“I was working for a friend – Emily from Ohio Pies –and attending different farmers markets. At the same time, I had jobs at both Bottoms Up Coffee and Brassica, so I was meeting different people in the food community,” Liz said.
When it was mentioned that the farmers markets didn’t have any fresh bread, Emily asked Liz if she could bring some since she was a home baker.
“I was so nervous,” laughed Liz. “But I baked seven loaves that all sold out super quickly.”
Liz showed up every week, making high-quality bread accessible to communities who eagerly embraced it. Eventually, she decided it was time to move from a home cottage kitchen to commercial baker. She looked for places in Columbus to grow her business, right when Isabella Bonello of Three Bites Bakery told her their current location was about to be vacant as they relocated to East Broad Street.
“That was almost a year ago,” Liz recalled. “We really got to work and it has been a process, but here we are. I am happy the doors are open.”
On their first open day, Yawning Bear Bread Co. had a line out the door.
“To do right by the building and right by the neighborhood has been extremely important to me right now, and while moving forward,” Liz explained.
During construction, Liz asked folks walking through King-Lincoln what they would like from a local bakery. Their biggest requests were hot coffee and a sweet treat. Developing a treat was immediately in the works, and drip coffee is now available for only two dollars. →
Jordan Abbruzzese / Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Meg Rhoads
“THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT THE COLUMBUS FOOD SCENE SPECIFICALLY WHERE EVERYONE AGGRESSIVELY TAKES CARE OF EACH OTHER IN THE BEST WAY. IT’S JUST SO GOOD HERE!”
But highlighted first and foremost, at the center of the store, is Yawning Bear’s carefully baked bread. With every baker in Columbus loyal to their own specific grain, Yawning Bear Bread Co. is committed to working with Local Millers farm-to-table flour out of Carroll, Ohio.
“Local Millers makes a difference in the bread because regenerative farms use a stone-ground method with more nutrition coming directly from the flour,” Liz explained. Working with a local, quality farm is essential to Liz, paired with the fact that the vendor is just a text away.
Yawning Bear and Local Millers’ process also allows Liz to bake with byproducts of the flour, like semolina. The semolina can be sprinkled on the bottom of the loaves, which keeps the bottoms from scorching while baking.
“The flour sets us apart,” Liz stated confidently. “That’s what makes us stand out.”
The other priority to Yawning Bear is the cost of their bread.
“I grew up the youngest of five kids and my mom fed us as quickly and the best she could with a bread machine,” remembered Liz. “So the price point and the accessibility is important to me.”
Currently, Liz is working with Toast payment systems to get a handheld point of sale device that can process SNAP (Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program) payments. She is also planning on rolling out a SNAP EBT discount, meaning that people can pay what they can afford for the bread.
She aspires to make the bakery an even more holistic experience for her neighbors in the near future, offering soups and snacks for purchase to complement the bread, along with cold drinks and jams in a fridge near the front of the store.
“I eventually want to put a bulletin board up so we can be a hub with business fliers and cards, and can promote school programs,” Liz said excitedly. “I have a million ideas on how to partner with local businesses and nonprofits nearby.”
One of Yawning Bear’s current partnerships is with Moonbird Coffee Co. out of Grandview. Moonbird customers can try Liz’s bread as a part of their staple avocado toast menu item, and patrons can pick up cold drinks made by Moonbird on Saturday mornings at Yawning Bear. Moonbirds’ “moonbottles” of coffee and chai lattes are already a hot weekend item, paving the way for more collaboration in the future.
It’s essential to Liz to continue working with the Columbus community in every way possible.
“There is something about the Columbus food scene specifically where everyone aggressively takes care of each other in the best way. It’s just so good here!” Liz smiled. “We all want to help each other. We know how much time, effort, and money it takes to get to this point.”
She hopes to soon teach other cottage bakers how to make the best bread possible from quality ingredients by offering classes right out of Yawning Bear Bread. As the holidays roll around, be ready for specialty themed items coming fresh out of Yawning Bear’s oven, with cozy cinnamon or gingerbread flavors. So, come on by, and look for the butter-colored storefront off of Mt. Vernon Ave. See (and taste) what makes this new bakery so special.
Yawning Bear Bread Co. is now open every Thursday through Saturday, from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Follow @yawningbearbread on Instagram for news and updates.
Spaghetti and Meatballs from TAT Ristorante Di Famiglia ↓
In a world full of debates–does pineapple belong on pizza? Is a hot dog a sandwich? Is it “soda” or “pop?”–there’s one thing we can all agree on: noodles are universally delicious, no matter how they’re prepared or where they’re from. Lasagna? A classic. German-style spaetzle? Comfort food at its best. A spicy bowl of Pad Thai? Perfectly satisfying. Boxed Kraft mac & cheese? Absolutely iconic.
Our love for noodles runs deep, so we’ve dedicated this entire section to the incredible pasta-centric dishes you can find throughout Central Ohio. We’ve featured homemade spaghetti from Columbus’ oldest Italian restaurant, a chow mein packed with bold flavors only found at our local Nepali eateries, and even hand-pulled noodles at the local newcomer offering Italian-style noodles with an Asian twist, plus so much more.
Grab your forks, chopsticks, and slurping spoons, Columbus – the pastabilities are endless. →
When you think of traditional German cuisine, noodles may not immediately come to mind. But they probably should. Schmidt’s Sausage Haus in German Village stands as one of the city’s longest-tenured eateries, offering authentic German cuisine in the heart of German Village (and wherever its food truck can drive).
According to 5th generation Schmidt’s family member and brand ambassador for the eatery Matt Schmidt, the restaurant’s Spaetzle is one of its most popular–and most authentic–German dishes. While it’s not always a main course, per say, may seek it out as if it was. A traditional Central European egg noodle with a chewy, almost dumpling-like texture, Schmidt’s version of the noodles–like many others–are formed as short, irregular chunks of noodle with indentations made by spoon or by hand.
Spaetzel comes on the side in Schmidt’s Haus Sauerbraten, which features marinated beef served over a bed of the noodles and topped with traditional gingersnap gravy.
HAUS
↑ Cacio e Pepe at Speck Italian Eatery, photo by Jen Brown
240 E. KOSSUTH ST.
ITALIAN EATERY
Columbus star chef Josh Dalton has a penchant for turning seemingly regular restaurant concepts into smash hits, and his hugely-popular modern Italian spot Speck Italian Eatery is no exception. Originally launched out of Dalton’s “restaurant incubator” space in Delaware, Speck made the move to Downtown Columbus in early 2023, and we’re perfectly fine with that here in the Arch City.
Speck’s interior is chic but timeless and understated, mirroring its menu. If you can make Sausage Ragu and Pomodoro great without reinventing the wheel, why reinvent the wheel?
Fittingly, one of Speck’s standout pasta dishes is one of its simplest: their
← Spaetzel at Schmidt's Sausage Haus, photo by Evan Frere
89 N. HIGH ST.
↑ Stuffed pasta at Pelino's Pasta, photo by Evan Frere
STUFFED PASTA
n any given day, if you can’t find Pelino’s Pasta co-owner Vinny Pelino in the kitchen cooking up one of the eatery’s nearly 500 different pasta dishes they’ve offered since opening, chances are he’ll be in Italy, leading a culinary
That’s how deep Pelino’s dedication to authentic Italian
With a constantly rotating menu–”Every month it’s totally new,” Pelino told me–it can be hard to keep track of which specific dishes are your favorite, but, if you’re not reaching for one of their Cacio e Pepe varieties (which are tossed in a giant cheese wheel), Vinny noted one of the options that set them apart is their variety of stuffed pastas, all of which are handmade and stuffed in house. From tortellini stuffed with prosciutto, to cappalacci filled with butternut squash and Parmigiano Reggiano, the stuffed pasta features changed based on the month and season. But one thing’s for sure – they’re always delicious.
Cacio e Pepe at Pelino's Pasta, photo by Evan Frere ↓
TLASAGNA
ucked away inside of a nondescript strip mall on the city’s far North Side, Pasqualone’s is a bit of a paradox, as dining there both feels like an elevated, fine dining experience as much as it does stepping into your grandmother’s kitchen. Why, you ask? According to co-owner and chef David Pasqualone, the 10-seat restaurant (that’s total capacity, so reservations are required) doesn’t offer carryout, and the only person in the entire eatery to handle food is Pasqualone himself.
For 22 years, the restaurant has been offering cuisine inspired by the Abruzzi region of Italy, where David’s family is from.
While some opt for the Spaghetti and others the Penne, Pasqualone recommends the Lasagna. The dish, which he refers to as “very unique,” features multiple layers of braised pork shoulder, alongside ricotta, Asiago, provolone, mozzarella, Romano and Parmesan cheeses, red sauce, and a middle layer featuring Fettuccine Alfredo.
EMPORIUM SQUARE
← Lasagna at Pasqualone's, photo by Alissa Ohashi
“Come for the robot servers, stay for the food.”
While this is currently not the official slogan of Hiro Ramen & Tea, a popular Columbus eatery that operates out of a former Northwest Side Burger King, it definitely could be.
That’s also not to say Hiro Ramen is a gimmick, since plenty of Columbus diners come solely for the menu.
While, as its name suggests, you can’t go wrong with the ramen, according to marketing director Nathan Ai, Hiro offers a stir fry version of udon noodles that’s unique to other ramen spots, and uniquely delicious.
“It’s a noodle that’s meant to be much more filling. Most times in Columbus, you see it in more of a broth – I don’t know any other places that stir-fry it,” he said.
Diners can opt for a variety of stir-fry udon options, but according to Ai, the seafood version is the most popular, made with shrimp, bay scallops, imitation crabmeat, udon noodles, cabbage, bean sprouts, carrots, scallions, and wood ear mushroom, all tossed in savory sauce.
↓ Stir Fry Udon at Hiro Ramen & Tea, photo courtesy of Hiro Ramen & Tea
Meshikou Black at Meshikou Ramen, photo by Alissa Ohashi ↓
CUISINE
SZECHUAN DAN DAN NOODLES
fter opening its first location in 2019, Xi Xia Western Chinese Cuisine has cemented itself as one of the best, and most authentic,
As you might have already guessed, at Xi Xia, it all starts with the
The eatery’s best-selling dish, Szechuan Dan Dan Noodles, are thin and made by hand, topped with dan dan sauce, sesame paste, housemade chili oil, peanuts and minced pork, although you can get it without
Dan dan noodles, a product of China’s Szechuan province, are named for their savory sauce that typically features vinegar, soy sauce, five spice, chilies and–true to its provenance–a healthy amount of tongue-
PHO W/ GRILLED PORK CHOP VIETNAMESE
While pho is perfect for the winter months, with its warmth and complex umami, sometimes noodles, veggies and broth just aren’t enough. But Huong Vietnamese Restaurant has the solution.
Their flagship dish (item 20C on their menu), is the Pho with Grilled Pork Chop. According to owner Huong Pham, it features traditional beef broth, pho noodles, fresh vegetables and a half pound—yes, you read that correctly—pork chop. If pork’s not your thing, diners at the North Side
← Pho with Grilled Pork Chop at Huong Vietnamese Restaurant, photo by Evan Frere
4800 SAWMILL RD.
COLD NOODLE
No, the fine folks at Jiu Thai Asian Cafe did not do you wrong. These noodles are meant to be served cold.
In case you can’t already tell, we’re talking about the eatery’s Cold Noodle, which according to the Jiu Thai staff, is the restaurant’s most popular dish.
So, how is it that a cold noodle dish outperforms the ubiquitous, crowd-pleasing Pad Thai?
Hand-pulled noodles are a pretty good place to start. That’s in addition to a sweet and savory peanut sauce, fresh cucumber slivers, spices, sesame seed and lime, creating a medley of flavors that are refreshing but still rich and satisfying.
In fact, while Cold Noodle is the eatery’s best-selling dish, Jiu Thai boasts an entire cold section on its menu, which includes dishes like kimchi, cucumber salad and more.
If you’re looking for a hot noodle dish, Jiu Thai says to check out their Biang Biang Noodle, which features thick, hand-pulled noodles and toppled chili, garlic and sichuan pepper.
↑ Cold Noodle at Jiu Thai Asian Cafe, photo by Jordy Middlebrooks
For most of us, when we say “Chow Mein,” we’re referring to a specific Chinese-American dish, but to international restaurateurs–plus diners in Nepal and Tibet–it means something a little bit different.
Yes, both contain–and are named after–the chow mein noodle, but at Everest Cuisine (a Nepali, Indian and Tibetan eatery in Worthington), it’s likely you wouldn’t peg Nepali Chow Mein for its Chinese-American counterparts.
Instead of a relatively uniformly-colored dish, Everest’s Chow Mein features sauteed noodles combined with a medley of vegetables, including carrot, red pepper, peas, cabbage, scallion and more (it can be served with chicken, or without chicken as a vegetarian option), creating a veritable rainbow on the plate. The blend of Nepali and Indian spices also sets the dish apart from other more familiar chow mein options.
According to owner Sanddep Singh, who has operated the eatery now for eight years, this version of chow mein is actually one of the most popular dishes in Nepal. It’s not hard to see why.
Butter Chicken alla Vodka at Flour, photo by Evan Frere ↓
What do you get when the owner of Rooh–one of the city’s premier Indian eateries–launches a new “modern pasta bar” inspired by Italian classics and powered by creative flair? You get, among other things, Butter Chicken alla Vodka.
According to Yash Kishinchand, who owns both Rooh and Flour, his new “modern pasta bar” concept located inside of Polaris Fashion Place, Flour aims to offer plenty of Italian favorites while embracing his Indian roots and culinary curiosity in order to create a handful of unique fusion dishes.
Butter Chicken alla Vodka is one of these dishes. Inspired by the Butter Chicken served at Rooh, the dish is served over pasta with a housemade vodka sauce that bridges the flavors of both cuisines.
“Growing up in Columbus with an Indian heritage, I was exposed to so many different flavors and cuisines which shaped the way I learned to cook and explore food. It became more about the flavors and what works together rather than classifying an ingredient by origin,” Kishinchand said. “Pasta, too, I find to be such a canvas, where you can be as creative as you want, and every culture has their version of a noodle so why not have them all?”
A Sweet Winter Escape
Cozy up to Winter
Sip on warm drinks, savor sweet treats, and soak up the winter fun in Greater Lima. visitgreaterlima.com
↑ Chow Mein at Everest, photo by Evan Frere
SNorth don’t heed it.
While a number of cross-cultural dishes appear on Ampersand’s menu, owner Megan Ada swears by their Pozolestyle ramen.
“My husband, chef Joshua Cook, and I started noticing some Spanish restaurants offering barría style ramen. So we thought, ‘How can we put our own twist on a Spanish style ramen?’ What better than pozole,” said Ada. “That’s the beauty of being a small business owner, we can be innovative and have fun with different types of cultural cuisines!”
Combining popular broth-based dishes from two different cultures, Ampersand’s Pozole Ramen contains karaage chicken, hominy and jalapeño chicken broth with radish, avocado, cilantro, cumin crema, tortilla strips and a shoyu egg.
← Cobra sign & exterior, photo by Jen Brown
What happens when a group of decorated Columbus restaurantindustry veterans join forces and take over the former Brewery District Panera location?
Cobra happens.
A spot that’s been hugely popular since its opening in October of 2023, Cobra almost immediately began racking up accolades, on both a local and national level. It was tapped as one of the 10 best new cocktail bars in the US Central Region of the Spirited Awards, and one of the five best new bars in the nation by Punch even more recently.
Don’t let all the cocktail accolades convince you that Cobra only does drinks, either, because their food menu is just as eclectic as it is delicious. Described as “food that you’d find at a Taiwanese or Chinese street market, but also inspired by other cities,” Cobra blends cultures and flavors in unique and exciting ways.
This is likely most evident in the Brewery District spot’s Thai Basil and Clams Linguine, which visibly represents the confluence of two cuisines. It features squid ink linguine, littleneck clams, Thai Basil, garlic, sake and lime.
Thai Basil and Clams Linguine at Cobra, photo courtesy of Alex Chien and Cobraa ↓
Max & Erma's TheLast
Max & Erma’s in Lancaster, Ohior ↑
Columbus historian John M. Clark dives into the history of the Lancaster Max & Erma’s, the only remaining Central Ohio location of the Columbus-born restaurant chain
By John M. Clark / Photos by Sarah Pfifer
or a town of only 40,000 residents, Lancaster, Ohio, has plenty to be proud of – the Anchor Hocking glassware company, the birthplace of Union General William Tecumseh Sherman and the site of several highly regarded museums. But for restaurant lovers, Lancaster has something even bigger going for it – the only remaining Max & Erma’s restaurant in central Ohio.
The restaurant chain that started in Columbus’ German Village 52 years ago had at its height well over a hundred locations, both franchised and company-owned. But following a bankruptcy declaration and corporate takeovers between 2008 and 2010, the number dwindled dramatically. Today, Max & Erma’s website lists only seven restaurants, and two of those are in airports.
You want Max & Erma’s famous tortilla soup and warm, fresh-baked cookies? You’ll find them both –along with their trademark “gourmet burgers,” onion rings and soft pretzel sticks – on North Memorial Drive, in front of Walmart.
Dave Denti, a long-time restaurant executive, built and opened the standalone restaurant in 2007. “I opened four Max & Erma’s in the region,” he said. “The one in Lancaster was a big hit, right off the bat.” The “Great Recession” of 2008 saw Denti closing his franchises in Huntington, West Virginia, Chillicothe and Findlay. But the Lancaster restaurant just kept humming along. →
Story Design by Meg Rhoads
Today, Denti’s daughter, Tamara Denti, runs the restaurant, along with her daughters Kyla and Lanie. “It’s definitely a family affair,” said Tamara, who’s had a business relationship with Max & Erma’s for the past 25 years. And what do her guests say about the opportunity to dine at a restaurant chain they grew up with? “Oh, they’re excited,” Tamara added. “A lot of them will bring in old Max & Erma’s memorabilia. People have gotten engaged here. And I’ve become friends with many of our customers.”
Ohio’s love affair with Max & Erma’s began in 1972, when business partners Barry Zacks and Todd Barnum bought a tiny café and bar on South Third Street, in German Village. Max and Erma Visocnik had taken over the previous Slim’s Tavern upon getting married 20 years earlier. And they continued to run it as a neighborhood gathering spot where nearby residents would come for a cold beer and conversation.
Zacks and Barnum were convinced that Columbus was ripe for a theme restaurant in the style of TGI Friday’s, which one of them had recently visited in New York. And the up-and-coming German Village Historic District seemed like the perfect place to put it. According to legend, one of them wrote a dollar amount on a slip of paper and passed it across the bar to Max. The Visocniks, who were in their 60s at the time, decided to take the money and retire to Buckeye Lake.
In exchange for the sum, Zacks and Barnum got the business, the building, the liquor license, the couple’s names and even their likenesses, which they would use in caricature form to advertise their new business. Over the next several years, Max & Erma’s restaurants spread across at least a dozen states, mostly in the northeast.
With Max & Erma’s, Zacks thought he had a real chance at creating something bigger than a local burger bar. And he did. To this day, baby boomers fondly recall the kitschy wall decorations, the bar stools with carved, wooden “human” legs, a clawfoot bathtub that served as a sundae bar, a canoe hanging from the ceiling and –for a time – an in-house telephone on every table, with which a diner could call someone at another table.
Though the Zacks & Barnum chain showed great success and growth, there were clouds on the horizon. First came the economic downturn of 2008, followed by rising costs for restaurant meal ingredients, and then the general lessening of diners’ interests in casual restaurant chains like Max & Erma’s. (TGI Friday’s, upon which Max & Erma’s was modeled, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in November.)
↓ Max & Erma’s welcome sign
↓ From left, managers Leslie Grieser and Tamara Denti
↑ A burger, fries, cookie and famous Tortilla Soup from Max & Erma’s Lancaster restaurant
We want our customers to be our friends. And I think we do a pretty good job at that.
”
A Pittsburgh-based investment company bought the chain in April 2008 and filed for bankruptcy a year later. Max & Erma’s would go through additional ownership changes and the closing of what were called “underperforming” stores. The original restaurant, in German Village, closed its doors for good in August 2017. And the number of restaurants continued to dwindle. As leases expire at current, company-owned locations, more are expected to close.
The Lancaster Max & Erma’s, though, is both popular and profitable, earning a good return for the Dentis and for Glacier Restaurant Group, the chain’s corporate owner. And because the Denti family owns the building, there appears to be little incentive on Glacier’s part to pull the franchise.
Tamara, the owner’s daughter and general manager, said she’s quite content to spend the rest of her days here. “Our guests are so grateful to have this restaurant to come to,” she said. “And to have my daughters working by my side is certainly a bonus.”
In a time of rising consumer complaints, Tamara knows she has to stay on her toes to keep her customers happy. “I keep telling our staff I want our place to be like Cheers, from the old TV show,” she said. “Of course, I have to explain to most of them what Cheers was! But they get it. We want our customers to be our friends. And I think we do a pretty good job at that.”
THE GREAT
These six Queen City spots are must-trys for all Ohio chili lovers
By Laura Hennigan / Story Design by Tori Smith
All Cincinnati chili recipes start the same way: ground beef is cooked with tomato paste and chili powder, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, nutmeg and cumin, and the mixture simmers for hours to form a thin meat sauce. It is then served up on a plate of spaghetti (or a coney dog) and can be topped with cheese, onions, beans, or all of the above.
It’s a unique dish to be sure, based on recipes that were brought over from Southeast Europe and introduced to the Cincinnati area in the early 1900s, and is famous for its distinct flavors. The eateries who first started serving Cincinnati chili have been around for over a century, but now there are plenty of competitors, each who offer a slightly different take on the classic.
So the next time you find yourself in the Queen City, be sure to make a stop or six at these Cincinnati chili restaurants and see if you can taste the subtle differences for yourself. You can also ask locals for their recommendations, but be prepared, as there is no consensus on which version is the best and folks tend to have very strong opinions about their chili.
↓ Cheese Coneys at Skyline Chili, photo courtesy of Skyline Chili
According to many, Cincinnati-style chili was first served (at least commercially) in 1922, crafted by brothers Tom and John Kiradjieff, at Empress Chili. The concept bills itself as “the first edition of a Cincinnati tradition.” The Kiradjieffs, who emigrated from Macedonia, began serving up helpings of a tangy meat stew made with traditional spices at their hot dog stand next to the Empress Theatre in downtown Cincinnati. Tom then started modifying the sauce, using it as a topping on spaghetti and coney dogs, and eventually adding a pile of cheese on top. Empress was the largest Cincinnati chili restaurant until 1949, when a former employee started Skyline.
Nicholas Lambrinides arrived in Cincinnati from Greece in 1912, bringing with him some favorite family recipes. After years of working in restaurants, including as a chef at Empress, and perfecting his own version of the chili meat sauce, Lambrinides and his sons opened Skyline. The business stayed family-owned and grew quickly, expanding to multiple locations, until 1998, when Skyline was sold to a New England investment firm. The new owners promised not to change the original chili recipe and reportedly keep it locked in a safe. Today, Skyline has amassed a huge following, and operates across four states.
↑ Cincinnati Chili 3-Way at Empress Chili, photo courtesy of Empress Chili
Dixie & DELI
Started by another former Empress employee, Dixie Chili & Deli now operates as a chain of three restaurants in Northern Kentucky. It began when Nicholas Sarakatsannis formulated and perfected his own Cincinnati chili recipe and then launched the first Dixie location in Newport. The family continues to make Papa Nick's secret recipe, using lean beef, Bermuda onions, garlic, and a secret blend of spices. Dixie Chili is made fresh daily and served in various combinations, including the exclusive six-way, which consists of chili, spaghetti, beans, onions, freshly chopped garlic and shredded aged cheddar cheese, as well as on coneys, salads and baked potatoes.
CAMP Washington
Camp Washington has been around since 1940, when it opened its doors in the historic Cincinnati neighborhood it is named after. You can visit the retro chili parlor, modeled after a 1950s style diner, on Colerain Avenue, 24 hours Monday through Friday, and until 4 p.m. on Saturdays (they are closed on Sunday). While there, you can order the famous sauce in a three, four, or five-way style, or opt to top a coney dog with it. Camp Washington also serves up chili taco salads, chili cheeseburgers, chili melts, chili cheese fries and a breakfast
← Various Cincinnati chili menu items at Camp Washington, photo courtesy of Camp Washington Chili
Founded in 1962, Price Hill Chili was established by Sam Beltsos, who completed an apprenticeship at the former Latonia Chili before branching out on his own. The original location was one room that seated 50, but Price Hill has now expanded both its menu and its physical space, serving up all-day breakfast, lunch and dinner to the 350 seats in its restaurant. Named a Best Classic Restaurant by Food & Wine in 2020, Price Hill is famous for its warm, thick and slightly sweet version of Cincinnati chili, which is used in two, three, four and five-ways, as well as on coney dogs.
Blue Ash has been serving chili since 1969, using the same recipe and high quality ingredients since the beginning. It’s made appearances on Food Network shows, Diners, Drive-Ins, & Dives and Ginormous Food. The latter featured Blue Ash’s infamous “No Freaking Way” challenge, which consists of over two pounds of spaghetti, two and a half pounds of their award-winning chili, two pounds of shredded Cheddar cheese and one pound of jalapeno caps. Finish the monstrosity in under 60 minutes and you’ll receive a free shirt and be added to their Hall of Fame. Can’t complete it? You’ll earn a place on the Wall of Shame and a bill for $49.99.
↓ Cincinnati Chili 4-Way with beans at Blue Ash Chili, photo courtesy of Blue Ash Chili
Ridiculous Ramen
From carbonara to chili cheese, editor Jack McLaughlin tries the three most unique cup noodle varities we could find
Idon’t have any sort of statistical evidence in front of me here, but I have to imagine cup noodles and pre-packaged ramen are some of the most widely-consumed foods in the world. And for good reason, they’re cheap, convenient, and for the most part taste great.
But like anything good and ubiquitous, there’s a weird underside that I’m much more interested in exploring. While none of them are made in Columbus, we scoured markets, grocery stores and restaurants for the strangest locally-available varieties we could find, and we tried them. So you don’t have to. →
By Jack McLaughlin
Photos by Sarah Pfeifer Story Design by Bryce Patterson
Chili Cheese
Chili Cheese Yakisoba
Yakisoba
This one’s technically not ramen, but yakisoba, a Japanese dish of stir-fried noodles, but it worked pretty much the same. And yeah, it was chili cheese flavored.
The flavors weren’t bad, but I probably would’ve enjoyed this a whole lot more had I not known what it was inspired by. I don’t want to think of a rec-league baseball concession stand when I’m eating noodles.
Speaking of, there were no vegetables or proteins to speak of, so this one ends up as just man versus noodle.
Maruchan
Carbonara Ramen Carbonara Ramen
Contemporary artist Jenny Holzer once installed a massive LED sign high above the streets of New York City with the phrase “Protect me from what I want.”
This is how Buldak’s Carbonara Ramen makes me feel. I love it, but I know I shouldn’t.
Even though nothing about these noodles, other than the richness of the sauce, recalls carbonara, I’m all about them. I understand the level of artificiality we’re talking about here, but the creamy yet still (surprisingly) spicy sauce was unexpectedly something I would eat again.
Surprise! Your favorite Mexican hot sauce now makes ramen. And we’re not mad about it.
Interestingly enough, this was the flavor I felt I had the least clarity about, but it ended up as the most straightforward.
The peppery, vinegary tang of Tapatío was there, alongside a broth that recalled both many of the more predictable ramen packets I’ve had in the past. It was good, although I would have preferred a bit more spice. In a world where hot sauce companies are making their own ramen, I’m sure just about any flavor you’d like is easy enough to find.
