Columbus coffee, coming in hot (& cold)
Plus: Pastries, Cheesesteaks, and more
Columbus coffee, coming in hot (& cold)
Plus: Pastries, Cheesesteaks, and more
Vintage Ohio Wine Festival
Kirtland, Ohio
August 2 & 3, 2024
Noon-9 PM
Sampler in Advance $39
Sampler at the Gate $45
Vintage Ohio South Festival
Springfield, Ohio
May 4, 2024
Noon-5 PM
Sampler in Advance $32
Sampler at the Gate $37
VIP Sampler in Advance Only $45
Visit OhioWines.org to purchase tickets or call 440.466.4417
In the cover section of our issue dedicated to the world’s favorite source of caffeine, we’re taking a look at Parable Cafe’s meteoric rise, Columbus’ Yemeni coffee revolution and much more. So grab a cup, and read on!
PHOTO BY TYLER JAMISON MILLS COVER DESIGN BY ATLAS BIROThe East Side’s hidden gem, Nico’s Cajun Island, offers unique vibes and huge flavors – if you know where to find it
Urban forager Lorenzo Tavani and his new project, COOK FORAGE FEAST, is showing Columbus that good food is everywhere—if we know where to look
Starting with a food cart, Marlow’s Cheesesteaks has transformed into an essential Columbus-area eatery, with multiple restaurant locations
Start your engines and your French press, because we’ve out together a coffee-fueled, and coffeefocused, road trip from South Bend to Madison
Coffee has taught me a thing two or about life, believe it or not.
As much as I love the image of a human-sized styrofoam cup with arms wildly gesticulating while talking about post-structuralism or the impact of Barnett Newman, that’s not exactly what I mean.
I went to college in Madison, Wisconsin. Let me just start off by saying, if you think Ohio is cold, don’t go anywhere north of Illinois. The cold is actually an important part of this story, too.
Being a 19 year old college freshman still sort of drunk on the idea of freedom (and occasionally alcohol, if we’re being honest), I remember moving back into my college dorm nearly a full week before the end of winter break during my first year at school.
A few of my good friends were there, and one night we had just planned on sitting around our floor’s common room to catch up. I didn’t drink coffee at the time, but my good friend did. I remember telling her about the taste, specifically the bitterness, as my major barrier.
What she told me next was the game-changer:
“Try to appreciate it for its warmth, for the smell and how comforting it is,” she said. “Especially on a cold night.”
There was really nothing revolutionary or even unique about what she said, but for some reason, in that moment—tucked away inside a nearly-empty dorm while holed up against the force of a brutal Wisconsin winter—a switch flipped in my brain.
At that specific time, in that specific place, it just made sense. Before then, to me, coffee was a drink. I associated drinks with taste, and that was that. This means, if they tasted bad, they were bad.
A part of this change for me was definitely being in college itself, but I also don’t want to undersell that interaction. And it’s not like I underwent a wholesale immediately after this, but I remember taking that lesson and starting to apply it across other aspects of my life, to really hone in on finer details, to even try approaching things from a different angle. In that same way, it even helped me appreciate the Wisconsin winter, for the extra comfort that came when you were inside. And yes, even the art of Barnett Newman.
Coffee means a lot of things to a lot of people, and if you think it’s just a caffeine source (which it is, and a great one at that), think again. For me, it was a catalyst. For some people, it’s a cultural tradition, or a pretext to meet with friends, or a date. Heck, it’s even art (latte artists, I have no idea how you do it).
In The Coffee Issue, we want to celebrate all the things coffee is to Columbus, one story at a time.
Questions about advertising?
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Happy Spring drinking! Or wait – what’s the phrase – “spring eating?” Either way, no matter how you celebrate the arrival of flowers and sun, we hope it involves less cleaning and more beer and tacos. We’ve put together some fun events to get you through the next season of life, and if you’re itching for more, check out 614now.com/events.
Total Solar Eclipse Party at Land Grant
April 8, 11am-6pm
Location: 424 W. Town St.
I Love the 90s Bar Bash Crawl
April 13, 3pm-10pm
Location: Starts at Park Street Cantina
Sip of Upper Arlington
May 3, 7pm-9pm
Columbus Taco Fest
May 18 - May 19th, 12pm-8pm
Location: 303 W. Broad St.
Rise and shine, it’s breakfast time.
We’d like to give a special shoutout to our good pal, caffeine, who makes this magazine possible. Trust us – without it, you wouldn’t want to step foot into our office on a Monday morning. We asked the (614) Magazine staff to spill the coffee beans on their go-to caffeine kicks for surviving the daily grind:
“Iced Vanilla Latte year round, no matter the temperature. Can’t go wrong.”
Austin Black Video Producer/Editor
“Sugar-free red bulls or an iced vanilla latte are my go-tos, but if I want something a little more sweet, the iced tiramisu latte from Tous Les Jours is a must.”
Zoey King Social Media Manager
“Nothing special – just coffee/ espresso from anywhere good, and preworkout before the gym.”
Wyatt Krupp Account Executive
“I like to change up my coffee routine every so often so I don't get bored, but my current go-tos are cold brew with Dunkin' Brownie Batter Creamer or a cherry lime Alani energy drink!”
Tori Smith Creative Designer
“Soy milk cappuccino (or two –depends on the day!) with raw sugar sprinkled on top.”
Sav McKee Assistant Editor
“I drink iced matcha with oat milk and honey and/or lavender syrup. Tastes like fruit loop milk! I can’t drink too much caffeine.”
Lizzy Saunders Events Coordinator & Brand Manager for (614) Lager
The new collab between Seventh Son and Florin Coffee means that the brewery is working with coffee beans instead of hops in order to create a specialized canned coffee. The result is a clean tasting cold brew that retains a fuller aroma with bright berry fruit and mild chocolate flavors. Snag a can at Littleton’s, The Hills Market, Weiland’s, or at either Seventh Son or Florin.
↑ Custom Charm Necklaces Shop Dabl
Big fan of croissants? Coffee? Martinis? Tomato Soup? Show off your interests via your jewelry! Dabl, a local business that specializes in custom charm necklaces and earrings, uses unique vintage charms to create custom jewelry pieces that make the perfect gift for you or a friend. You can order a custom one on their website or check out the pre-set options at The Atomic Shop available for a limited time as well.
Everyone’s favorite classic dill pickle, but turned up a notch with a zing of ranch and the heat of chili pepper oil. This local business is making waves in the Columbus pickle scene, creating a wide variety of gourmet pickles using the freshest ingredients. You can find them popping up at local markets (look at their website to find where), or by ordering online.
↑ Raspberry Matcha Potion Matcha Bar
This high-quality matcha with cane sugar and organic raspberry powder balances the umami flavor of matcha, perfect over ice. Chloe Emmons, the owner of Potion, sources her tea from the island of Honshu in Japan. You can find these jars at Bexley Natural Market, Third Way Cafe, Kitties Cafes, and more.
Did you know that (614) has a YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, check out the newest videos on our channel:
Just because Lent is here doesn’t mean you have to give up on tasty foods! El Vaquero has some delicious options you have to try!
Just a little caffeine to help get you through the day. OR rather, a lot. We tried some snacks again and probably broke a few FDA rules in the process.
A local market with a long history of providing fresh ingredients sourced daily from around the country.
• El Vaquero for Lent • Snack Attack Ep 5: A Little Caffeine • Littleton's MarketIt’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on X or Instagram to put your photos on our radar.
@takowing.eats
The mercurial world of coffee is never still, but Canaan Lendell identifies three trends to watch in 2024–in Columbus and beyondBy Canaan Lendell Photos by Tyler Jamison Mills Story Design by Tori Smith
he last 20 years have seen radical shifts in the way we consume coffee, the hidden engine of our 9-5 economy. The expansion of quick-concept shops like Starbucks and Dunkin’ have found a response in third-wave coffee houses that emphasize sustainability and transparency. As Columbus’s local scene of producers, roasters and brewers continues to mature, here are some trends to keep on your radar.
The influx of free time during the pandemic put people everywhere in touch with new hobbies, and while cultivating your own sourdough starter was certainly en vogue, specialty home brewing seems to be the one proven to last. A generation that had previously relied on large chains, prepared drinks, and the occasional Keurig now turned to the internet. Celebrity coffee personalities like James Hoffman and Morgan Eckroth have created online spaces where millions of people learn and debate the near-infinite aspects of making the perfect cup of coffee, from choosing a grinder and kettle down to which variety of filter papers makes the “cleanest cup.” You can find what you need to get started at local shops like Parable Cafe and One Line, but expect to see companies like Fellow, Hario, and La Marzocco release more innovative equipment for the homebrewing aficionado.
Since the 90s, the coffee industry has had very specific parameters for what is considered “specialty.” Of the two coffee plants, arabica and robusta, arabica has been the default, and the beans themselves have been processed in only a handful of ways. Roasters and producers have started questioning these paradigms, though, and the assumptions that underlie them. Countries like Vietnam and Italy have historically used the higher-caffeine, more intense robusta, and producers are now exploring what new flavor profiles might be opened up. The wine industry has also been a source of inspiration as producers search for novel fermentation techniques. One method is carbonic maceration, where whole coffee cherries are fermented in oxygen-free sealed tanks that are then pumped full of carbon dioxide. Breaking down pectin in the cherries, these coffees exhibit more intense notes of red and dried fruit. Keep an eye out for experimental brews to try as local roasters gain more access to these uniquely-processed and sourced beans.
A quick glance at the veritable wall of coffee adjacent beverages at Whole Foods tells you all you need to know. Specialty producers have been making inroads into sectors like instant coffee and prepared drinks, transforming what was previously relegated to gas station pick-me-ups. Advances in technology have allowed roasters to preserve the unique characteristics of their beans, so instead of a samey, slightly off cup that’s best gulped down with lots of creamer, you have a cup in seconds that’s almost indistinguishable from freshly-brewed. Companies like La Colombe have figured out how to get nitro lattes into cans, putting high-quality beans and ingredients into a convenient, portable format. As the technology continues to improve, anticipate Columbus roasters experimenting with their coffees in more accessible formats.
Driving down Brice Road, you might glance at Nico’s Cajun Island and wonder, what’s up with that crazy looking place? Or you might not notice it at all. It’s been a fairly-well-kept secret on the East Side for quite a while, mixing great food with a playful attitude.
In the back of Cajun Island’s kitchen, owner Nick “Nico” Ney was pouring giant containers of spices into large pans, coaching a couple of young employees on the process, always focused on setting them up for success. “Watch your nose,” he said, dumping gallons of black pepper into the mixture.
A pot of Jambalaya simmered on the stove nearby, next to a pile of juicy, freshly blackened chicken. “Our sauce is a little different,” he explained as he walked through the kitchen. “And a lot of Cajun people, they like rice instead of pasta. Yeah, but we do our pasta, in particular bow tie, because of the Yankees. You know, we're up North.”
"A LOT OF CAJUN PEOPLE, THEY LIKE RICE INSTEAD OF PASTA. YEAH, BUT WE DO OUR PASTA...BECAUSE OF THE YANKEES"
Ney’s recipes are steeped, but not stuck, in tradition. Whether it’s entrees, sauces, or something else, he’s always looking for the angle to make his food more flavorful and exciting.
Not only that, but he’s always on the lookout for ways to make his restaurant more efficient. He admits to watching The Founder over and over and being a big fan of the speedee system. “I'm, like, totally engulfed,” he said. “I'll sit there and serve and everything like that, trying to find better, easier ways.”
And the results of all his efforts keep those in the know coming back. →
The first Cajun Island was in Scarborough Mall’s food court. When the mall closed many years ago, Ney put his equipment in storage and moved on. He knew that the Arthur Treacher’s at Brice and Livingston’s days were numbered, and he drove past regularly, waiting for his opportunity. One day, the “for lease” sign appeared.
“I went right to the realtor and I leased it. It took me thirty 16-hour days to get this place cleaned up and ready. And we've pretty much changed out everything even more since then,” explained Ney. We try to get crazy stuff in here. It's kind of mismatched, you know? That's what's great about it.”
“Mismatched” describes the place perfectly, and it’s a joyful, eccentric reflection of Ney’s colorful life. Born in Gary, Indiana and raised in semi-rural Wisconsin, Ney describes himself as a “self-made man.” He ended up in Ohio after being furloughed from a job in Milwaukee. He’s been a Marine Corps cook, a railroad and construction worker, a “top dog” automobile sales manager, an executive chef, and a restaurant owner.
Outside the restaurant, DIY fountains, a small wrought-iron Ferris wheel, and a steel Longhorn bull grill share the patio with tables, pergolas, and planters. Inside, life-size mannequins of Elwood and Jake Blues lounge below a ring light, flanked by stacks of chairs and cases of bow tie pasta, while mirror-tile curtains glitter on the south
windows. (Be sure to look for cardboard Captain Jack Sparrow in the phone booth, too.) Most of the business is carry-out, partly because Cajun Island doesn’t have a liquor license, but it’s fun to grab a soda, dine in, and enjoy the eclectic ambience.
The meals aren’t cheap, but they’re worth the price. The bourbon chicken is finished with pecan syrup—and yes, you’re tasting real bourbon in there, as well as a touch of amaretto. And the cream sauce? “I buy eleven hundred dollars of heavy cream every Wednesday from ALDI,” Ney admitted.
If you have a big appetite or like leftovers, you’re in luck. The entrees are big and weighty, loaded with the good stuff—like half a pound of steak or a generous pile of shrimp.
“They got to be big [shrimp],” Ney said. “We only get the big ones because I get so mad when I go to a restaurant and I got this little tiny ass shrimp, you know?” (Yeah, we do.)
Other favorites are seafood pasta with lobster cream sauce and a blackened chicken quesadilla.
But if you’re a die-hard chile fanatic, order the Rasta Pasta—but order it spicy. Yes, you can get it without faceassaulting heat, but true chile-heads will appreciate a generous addition of Carolina Reaper purée in the Cajun cream sauce, paired with sweet Jazzy Jerk sauce.
↓ Multiple Nico’s Cajun Island entreesNey loves spicy foods. He’s won many awards, including multiple Scovie Awards. He recalled the chaos of his stand at the Albuquerque event. “My brother and I had two registers, and the registers would get so full we had to start stuffing money in our pockets. It was pandemonium. You had to crawl underneath the table of the booth behind you to get to the restroom. They told me that people will be throwing money at us, and they did.”
So yes, he can do spicy really well, but most of Cajun Island’s dishes are tame enough for the masses. You might fall in love with the flavors, and that’s okay, because they sell some of their sauces at the restaurant, too. But, honestly, try it once and you’ll be back.
Since reopening Cajun Island in that old Arthur Treacher’s many years ago, Ney has purchased and paid off the property, and he plans to continue investing in his business. “I'm never going to retire,” he said, laughing. “I'm always going to work at the restaurant until I die.”
Pastries are coffee’s best friend–and from sweet to savory and even a few on the wilder side–Columbus has quality offerings in spades
By Sav McKee / Story Design by Tori SmithSure, there’s classics like peanut butter & jelly, grilled cheese and tomato soup, and burgers paired with fries. But I would argue there’s a dynamic duo that reigns supreme: coffee and pastries.
In a city teeming with amazing coffee shops, we’re also equally adorned with patisseries and bakeries – some of which also serve great coffee drinks! From stuffed cannolis to buttery prosciutto croissants, the options are as diverse as they are delicious. Whether you veer towards the sweet side or more savory, we have you covered.
Guava Danish
Tous Les Jours
2851 Olentangy River Rd.
Raspberry
Turnover
Créme de la Créme Bakery & Cafe
5311 Westpointe Plaza Dr.
Chocolate
Croissant
Littleton’s Market
140 Tremont Ctr., Upper Arlington, OH
Vegan Blueberry
Lemon Pop Tart
Happy Little Treats
1203 N. High St.
Gluten-Free
Cranberry
Orange Scone
Bake Me Happy
500 E. Whittier St.
Classic
Cinnamon Roll
Kittie’s Cakes
2424 E. Main St., Bexley, OH
Holy Cannoli
Auddino’s Italian Bakery
1490 Clara St.
Coffee Cake
Resch’s Bakery
4061 E. Livingston Ave.
French Onion Croissant
Pistacia Vera • 541 S. 3rd St.
Scallion Bun
Golden Delight Bakery • 246 Lincoln Cir. C, Gahanna, OH
Garlic & Cheese Croissant
Tous Les Jours • 2851 Olentangy River Rd.
Zucchini Mini Loaf
Cherbourg Bakery • 541 S. Drexel Ave., Bexley, OH
Ham & Cheese Croissant
Fox in the Snow • 1031 N. 4th St.
Prosciutto & Mustard Croissant
Parable Cafe • 149 S. High St.
Kielbasa, JalapeNo & Cheese Kolache
Kolache Republic • 702 S. High St.
Mushroom, Artichoke, Leek Croissant
Three Bites Bakery • 999 Mt. Vernon Ave.
Sriracha Tuna Pastry with Mayonnaise
Belle’s Bread • 168 Kenny Centre Mall
Olive Polenta and Shagbark Grits Loaf
Dan the Baker • 1028 Ridge St.
Soybean Powder Mochi Donut
TeaMojie • 5227 Godown Rd.
Chinese Pineapple Bun
Three Bites Bakery • 999 Mt. Vernon Ave.
Knafeh
Al Aqsa Sweets • 1940 Schrock Rd.
Mozzarella, Molasses, & Sesame Simit
Tulip Cafe • 2926 Hayden Run Plz.
Starting with a food cart, Marlow’s Cheesesteaks has transformed into an essential Columbusarea eatery, with multiple restaurant locations
By Chris Alexis / Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Atlas BiroThere are more than 460 miles between Gahanna, Ohio, and Philadelphia, PA. And yet, the City of Brotherly Love has a strong presence in central Ohio, thanks to Marlow's Cheesesteaks.
The beloved Gahanna eatery will soon open its second location in Budd Dairy Food Hall, located at 1086 N. 4th St. And it's been quite a journey for the owners, husband-and-wife duo Shanika and Jomar Sheppard, who were both raised in Philly.
The two were living there when Shanika's job as a retail buyer at Catherine's, a clothing store, was transferred to Columbus. Jomar encouraged her to embrace the change, as he was open to new opportunities, too.
And so, the two headed off to the capital city of the Buckeye State, where Jomar transitioned into a project with Facebook. But the couple wasn't completely satisfied. The world of entrepreneurship was calling their names.
Their first step? A food cart in Eastland Mall, where they sold water ice.
"It's a frozen dessert, like Italian ice but with a smoother consistency. It’s really big in Philly," Shanika explained. “So, that's what we started with."
That business then found a home at Tuttle Mall, and eventually also appeared at Easton. The pair also found themselves going to festivals. And Shanika noticed something: people love buying food.
She turned to her husband and said, "We need a bigger ticket." →
“When you walk in, you definitely have a sense that you've been transported to Philadelphia...”
The water ice was already rooted in Philly culture, and they didn't want to abandon that. In fact, they wanted to grow in it. Before long, they had a food trailer selling cheesesteaks, showing up at festivals, and sharing a piece of their home with folks here in central Ohio.
And in April 2022, they officially opened Marlow's in Gahanna. (Fun fact: "Marlow" is Jomar's nickname.)
The lively response from the community was heartwarming for the Sheppards.
"We're very happy with the response that we've received," Shanika said. "We get people from different parts of Columbus that come and patronize the restaurant. We also see people from Dayton, from Cleveland. A lot of it is word of mouth, which in my book, is the best form of advertising."
When asked what she thought resonated so much with the community, Shanika pointed to the Philly soul of the eatery.
"When you walk in, you definitely have a sense that you've been transported to Philadelphia from the jerseys that we have hanging," she said. "There's a map of neighborhoods of use and the lingo that we use is straight Philadelphia lingo."
For example, there's a "build your own" option for their cheesesteaks. When it comes to onions, you can get your sandwich "wit or wit out" them. →
“It's never too late to pursue a dream...If it's presented to you, like, don't be afraid and just go for it”
Their specialty sandwiches include the "Classic Wiz Wit," which includes steak, cheese wiz and sautéed onions; the ever-popular "Marlow's Way," which includes steak, cheese wiz, provolone, sautéed onions, mushrooms, hot peppers, mayo, and spicy mustard; "The Johnny Boy," which features steak, chicken, sautéed onions, hot peppers, sweet peppers, provolone and American cheeses; "The Parkside Salmon Cheesesteak" with grilled salmon, choice of cheese, sautéed onions, mushroom, and hot peppers.
For the vegetarians out there, Marlow's has you covered: The "Vine St. Veggie" has plenty of sautéed onions, mushrooms, hot peppers, sweet peppers, and your choice of cheese.
And if you look closely at their menu, you'll see the Sheppards never let go of what started it all: water ice.
From those humble beginnings to the successful present featuring the opening of their second location, it's been quite the voyage…and one the Sheppards invite others to embark on.
"I would say that it's never too late to pursue a dream or go after an opportunity," Shanika wanted 614 readers to know. "If it's presented to you, like, don't be afraid and just go for it." ♦
To learn more and to view a full menu,
It’s spring here in Columbus, and that means the coffee is coming in hot. Well, I guess, also cold. But you get it. In the cover section of our issue dedicated to the world’s favorite source of caffeine, we’re taking a look at Parable Cafe’s meteoric rise, Columbus’ Yemeni coffee revolution and much more. So grab a cup, and read on! →
Parable Cafe co-founder Ben Willis discusses the concept’s rise from coffee pop-up to Downtown destination, and the brand’s unflinching commitment to do right by their employees
By Taylor DorrellThe coffee shop on the corner of High and Town Street is large, comfortable, and packed with locals, especially on sunny days when Ohioans venture outside of their committed routine of driving, working, and the seasonal curling up at home. It’s presided over by a jovial and punctual band of passionate baristas who, like many of their customers, are painters, musicians, and photographers. Here, you can lean back with a paperback drinking leisurely in the European manner, or sit hunched over a laptop with a pastry, the more American way.
In the day, Parable Cafe—known for its offerings of culinary coffee drinks and Instagram-breaking pastries— hosts a mix of freelancers, bureaucrats on lunch, and the occasional youth from the suburbs. Some of the latter were spectating Ben Willis, the co-founder of Parable, and myself, as we talked about the state of the Columbus company. “If I could do it without wrecking our business, I probably wouldn't have wi-fi,” Willis told me. “I would really like them to be conversing with one another,” he said, “taking in part of something other than work.” The diverse laptop-ridden crowd shifts, however, when Parable changes into a cozy cocktail bar in the evening, known as Parable After Dark.
It is a gradual change, the daily switch from a cafe to a cocktail bar, but one that is glaring to anyone who, after a day at Parable’s cafe, comes back for a drink. At night, Parable’s cocktail bar hosts a jazz band every Sunday evening, radical poetry nights every month or so, and a crowd noticeably different from the earlier hours. Those seated closest to the jazz musicians watch attentively with concurring eyes, a bobbing head, and red wine, a glass of which they only depart with after a saxophone solo concludes so as to clap judiciously in approval. Those in the back quietly talk about dating apps and debate “what the next move is,” and as it happens, since it’s a Winter Sunday, there is no “next move.” Here, work is a world away. A laptop would appear as a curse, a sign of disrespect to an atmosphere that puts jazz at the center of the space. At poetry nights, invariably political affairs, you can find a potent blend of artists, activists, and nonprofit workers snapping in delight of the spoken word of a rapper pursuing a PhD in psychoanalysis. →
Every Sunday an exclusive offer is loaded to your River Rewards loyalty account for redemption on Monday. Not a loyalty member? Join today!
Buy one pizza, get a second for 50% off (applies to item of equal or lesser value).
Age 12 and under with purchase of $13 or more.
THANK YOU (FOR 30 YEARS) THURSDAY
In honor of our 30th anniversary, enjoy free Lodgepoles with purchase of $30 or more.
Parable is a curious coffee shop—instead of taking tips for baristas and compensating them with a menial wage, they do something rather extreme: pay baristas a living wage with benefits—Parable’s prices are set to cover their high wages and intricate craft, although customers can, when needed, pay a lower price. One barista, after putting in my order, asked if $5 was ok for the bourgeois pop tart pastry I have a tendency to order. It’s permitted to answer in the negative here, which I admit I’ve done in trying times. These exchanges create a peculiar empathy that’s usually absent in the wide world of commerce. Even then, a majority of customers gladly pay the full price as they know where the money goes.
In addition to a living wage and benefits, baristas are paid weekly, an extra step that can give people direct access to cash that they might otherwise require credit for. “If we can't pay people more, we can pay them more frequently,” Willis told me. →
“If we can't pay people more, we can pay them more frequently.”
Parable began as a pop-up, once based in the German-village restaurant, Comune, a glowing building just south of the sprawling Nationwide Children's Center complex. In 2022, however, they moved Downtown, just across the street from the Columbus Commons.
“We fight hell to give people a reason to come Downtown,” Willis told me. “I don't see many businesses that are as densely populated as this one.”
At the conclusion of my conversation with Willis, I asked him what the future of Parable was and if he planned to expand, as is the custom of most interviews with business owners. “I'm hardly a businessman,” Willis clarified. “I just like coffee, good jazz, working hard, and when people hang out.” In response to expansion, “I don't know if another thing like Parable would ever exist in a separate location,” he said. “It's a hard thing to keep running since it exists basically as an antithesis to exactly how everything is set up.” The cafe business model is not designed to be undertaken in a way that favors baristas. Willis told me he actually pays more taxes as a business owner who pays baristas a higher wage. “We'll do it until we fail, you know what I mean?” ♦
Most coffee shops aren’t open past 5 p.m., let alone midnight. But Abdul Nagi’s Hilliard storefront is not most coffee shops.
Nagi is the franchisee for the Hilliard location of Quamari Yemeni Coffee Co., a Dearborn, Michiganbased coffee business that’s just beginning its expansion through the Midwest. As its name denotes, Quamari Yemeni Coffee offers Yemeni-style coffee, in addition to a handful of decadent Middle Eastern pastries, teas and more.
If you’re curious about what Yemeni coffee is, you’re not alone. Although, according to Nagi, you may be soon, as word about Yemeni coffee is spreading quickly.
”Yemeni coffee has a history to it, and it’s delicious. Everyone who stops in and tries it can’t seem to get enough,” Nagi said.
While the exact intersection of humans and coffee beans is up for debate, according to the National Coffee Association, although the coffee bean originated in Ethiopia, it was first cultivated and traded in the Yemen District of the Arabian Peninsula. Historians also generally agree that coffee was likely first consumed in what is today Yemen.
Traditional Yemeni coffee isn’t simply just coffee brewed with beans from the area, however. The secret ingredient: spices. This includes cardamom, coriander, cumin and many, many more.
He’s brought it before Columbus, and Nagi himself is no stranger to introducing others to the rich world of Yemeni coffee. →
“I worked for 38 years before this. When I was at Delta Airlines, I would bring my [Yemeni] coffee to work with me every day, and people would always ask me about it,” he said with a grin. “I love seeing when people get to try it for the first time.”
The new Columbus franchise serves the full slate of coffee drinks you’d expect from any local cafe, in addition plenty of other drinks with Middle Eastern flair, including a pistachio latte, Qamaria Latte, adeni (a rich, spiced tea drink), plenty of other teas from the region and even a Yemeni smoothie packed with dates, honey and more.
“I love seeing when people get to try it for the first time.”
Plenty of Yemeni-inspired pastries fill out Qamaria’s ever-popular bakery offerings as well, including Pistachio Milk Cake, Filo Fingers, Almond Cake and more.
“We have the best pastries,” Nagi said. “We really do.” →
While Yemeni coffee is–by many accounts–the oldest and some of the best in the world, it’s only recently that it has had a visible presence in central Ohio. The Hilliard location of Qamaria Yemeni Coffee opened in February 2023 as the chain’s first franchised store. Yemeni coffee appears to be catching on here in central Ohio, however, as another location from Qamaria is slated to open in Lewis Center this year, and another chain focused on Yemeni coffee, FinJan Cafe, appears to be eyeing a Columbus storefront as well.
More than just great coffee and pastries, it appears some Yemeni culture is finding its way into Columbus via the Hilliard cafe. One of the first things many in Hilliard notice about the storefront is the fact that it’s open late. Qamaria Yemeni Coffee is open until 12 a.m. FridaySaturday, and until 11 p.m. every other night of the week.
“We did it last year during Ramadan, and people loved it. It’s something that’s specific to the Middle East, people eating and drinking at night, but it’s taken off here now,” he said. “Now we see so much diversity too, there’s different people coming in and relaxing at all hours together.” ♦
Coffee may be king, but flamingos wear crowns.
Royal Flamingo Coffee will soon be opening its first cafe in Natalie's Grandview, located on King Avenue. It's an exciting step for Bryan and Beth Brzozowski, the husband-and-wife team who created and own the hilariously named brand.
And it's been quite a journey that's involved a life-changing passion, an incredible discovery, a warehouse fire, and more.
It all began about seven years ago.
"My wife jokes that I get bored easily and, as we were heading into winter that year, I bought a small drum roaster figuring it'd be my winter hobby," Bryan said.
What he didn't count on was falling in love with it.
"I was spending hours every day roasting, searching for beans," he said. "I started sharing roasts with friends at work, giving it out as gifts, and kept getting good feedback."
That feedback kept Bryan's excitement high and led to him being mentored by a good friend who was also in specialty coffee.
When the pandemic struck, Bryan immersed himself in it even further, so much so that he decided he’d like to open his own roastery.
But he needed a name. But not just any name. It had to send a message.
"The name itself — Royal Flamingo — is meant to be a tongue in cheek and a little disarming," Bryan said. "We always tell customers that we take what we do seriously — the sourcing, roasting, etc. — but never ourselves." →
He felt some other brands of specialty coffee could be a bit pretentious. So what wasn't pretentious?
How about a flamingo? With a crown.
"We landed on a flamingo as the sort of mascot because I'm from the Parma area, and a fun fact about Parma is that it was once a large manufacturer of pink lawn flamingos," he revealed.
The couple's approach to never taking themselves too seriously isn't limited to just their coffee.
"When you walk into our house, the first thing you see is our cocktail bar, and above that is this sort of hilarious gold-framed painting of a flamingo wearing a crown and dressed up in royal garb," he said.
"We joke that it sets the tone when you come over," he said, adding that they want guests to always feel relaxed. →
And after officially opening in 2021, they grew and kept growing. They just claimed the silver medal in the filter category at the Golden Bean World Series, which is held in Melbourne.
And last year, they won the gold medal for espresso at the Golden Bean North America competition.
"In February 2023, we had the chance to cup about 40 coffees with our partners at Yellow Rooster and there was one coffee on the table that caught Beth and I's attention," he said.
And not just in a casual way. It stopped them in their tracks. The single origin coffee was called CM Red Fruits and tasted a bit like Fruity Pebbles. It was the "showstopper" the couple had been looking for.
"What makes CM Red Fruits truly special is the processing method, which has been nicknamed Candy Crush from the farmer, Edwin Noreña," Bryan said.
The couple went into contract on it, excited to enter into the Golden Bean competition, but there were still a few hurdles down the line.
The coffee was initially expected to arrive from Colombia in June but missed the container ship. (The wholesaler informed them of a warehouse fire around the same time. If the coffee had made it onto the ship, it would have burned up!)
But with about a month until the competition and no estimated arrival for the coffee, they were under pressure.
"I'm trying not to panic because some of these specialty coffees need time to rest — so I'm really up against a deadline," he said.
Luckily, they were able to reach out to the farm directly in Colombia and found a way to get 50 pounds expedited.
"It shows up three days before the competition in the most beat up-looking box," Bryan said. "It was comical. "
And three days later, they won Best Espresso in North America.
"The emotions were extremely overwhelming. We competed against close to 800 roasters across North America and to win was surreal," he said. "I still have imposter syndrome at times but it was absolute validation that I'm on the right track and can make something of this business."
And with their new cafe soon approaching, business will likely be booming.
"This spring, we'll be opening our first cafe inside Natalie's new space, I Like It Like That," he said.
"We'll run weekend hours to start with hopes of having a consistent weekly schedule in the future," he added. "We're still working out the menu, but the plan is to focus on black coffee — great espresso, filter, cold brew, single origin. We want to let these amazing coffees shine."
(If you need your milk and sugar, fear not! Plenty will be on hand.)
"We want everyone to enjoy coffee how they like," Bryan said. "We want all of this to feel approachable and fun." ♦
I’m the type of person that meticulously plans my entire weekend around which Columbus coffee shop I’m going to frequent, mainly based around which drink I’m craving. Lately though, I’ve been finding myself on a monthly rotation, often visiting the same cafes week after week.
Even the most devoted coffee connoisseur yearns for new inspiration, though. So I turned to the true experts – you all – to see what coffee shops, and coffee-based drinks, I’m missing out on. Here are some drinks from local cafes that the Columbus Community says are best they’ve had in the city:
Gochujang Mocha
(red chili paste, chocolate, espresso, milk)
Little Cat - 212 Kelton Ave.
-Jessica
The Honey Butter Latte
(espresso, honey, salted cream, and oat milk)
Pistacia Vera - 541 S. 3rd St.
-Leah
The Pocket Candy
(espresso with caramel sauce and butterscotch, milk)
Porters Coffee House - 194 W. Church St., Pickerington
-Hannah
Lavender Latte
(Ramble House espresso, lavender syrup, milk)
Global Gallery - 3535 N. High St.
-Madeline
Cafe De Olla
(inspired by the Oaxacan coffee, with evaporated cane juice + cinnamon)
Joya’s - 657 High St, Worthington
-Kathleen
The White Witch Latte
(house-made mandarin, rose petal, & vanilla bean syrups, espresso, milk)
Moonbird - 1400 Holly Ave., Grandview
-Jordan
The Strawberry Fields
(home-made strawberry jam syrup, house espresso, milk)
Roosevelt Coffee House
300 E. Long St.
“I can’t wait until summer just for this reason!”
-Rachel
Honey Cinnamon Latte
(house espresso, cinnamon syrup, honey, milk)
Roaming Goat Coffee - 849 N. High St.
-Mallory
White Chocolate Cherry Mocha
(espresso, white chocolate sauce, cherry syrup, milk)
Cup O Joe - 2990 N. High St.
-Maddie
Milligan’s Maple Latte
(house espresso, Milligan’s Maple syrup, milk)
One Line - 471 W. Rich St.
“Sweet but not overbearing, and still earthy.”
-Ian
Lavender Cold Brew
(house-made cold brew mixed with lavender simple syrup and a splash of half n half)
Java Central - 20 S. State St. Suite B, Westerville
“Coziest coffee shop ever.”
-Melissa
Toasted Coconut Mocha with a shot of Disaronno
(Deeper Roots espresso shot, house-made toasted coconut and chocolate syrup, almond liqueur, steamed milk)
Parable - 149 S. High St. “Tastes like an almond joy.”
-Nan
The Milky Way
(caramel and chocolate blended with espresso and milk)
Staufs - 1277 Grandview Ave.
-Anna
A Good Ol’ Espresso Shot
Florin - 874 Oakland Park Ave.
“Delicious, flavor-rich, and very consistent!”
-Madyline
Blueberry Cold Brew
(beans rolled in blueberry oil, brewed, then iced)
Winans - 897 S. 3rd. St.
-Eliza
The Vietnamese Shakerato
(chicory and sweetened condensed milk, served chilled)
The Sycamore - 262 E. Sycamore St.
-Michael
Okay…Okay
(espresso, textured milk, sweetened condensed milk, cinnamon)
Emmett’s - 2571 Neil Ave.
-Monica
Cinnamon Honey Latte
(house-made cinnamon syrup, honey, espresso, milk)
Grandview Grind - 1423 Grandview Ave.
“Perfect! Not too sweet! No fake syrup!”
-Sierra
The Dr. Suess
(hazelnut, almond, peanut butter, espresso, milk)
Kafe Kerouac - 2250 N. High St.
-Emily
White Mocha
(white chocolate sauce, espresso, milk)
Crimson Cup - 2468 Northwest Blvd., Upper Arlington
-Jordyn
Iced New Orleans
(cold brew with chicory root mixed with milk)
Fox in the Snow - 210 Thurman Ave.
“Add their housemade vanilla syrup to it!”
-Kathryn
Black Coffee
Yeah, Me Too - 3006 Indianola Ave.
“It’s the best because you just really never know when they’ll be open.”
-Brett
Urban forager Lorenzo Tavani and his new project, COOK FORAGE FEAST, is showing Columbus that good food is everywhere—if we know where to lookBy Dylan Ecker / Photos by Björn Anderson Story Design by Atlas Biro
In late February, I sit down with Lorenzo Tavani for morning caffeine, intent on discovering what’s growing on (pun quota: met). He’s the head honcho over at COOK FORAGE FEAST, an educational operation in and around Columbus seeking to get community members more familiar with their neighborhood flora (and, in the process, each other). He just started running classes under the COOK FORAGE FEAST moniker only recently, but has been engrossed in the sights, smells, and tastes of edible plant life for a good while.
Growing up between Dayton and Columbus, Lorenzo spent the majority of his childhood out of doors. Boats, kayaks, camping: family trips always involved being active in nature. When at home, Lorenzo sought serenity in the soil. He’d be fiddling about his grandma’s backyard or helping his mom pick the biggest, most fragrant basil leaves.
I ask Lorenzo what is the most powerful piece of nostalgia he carries with him from that time. He turns his head to think before saying, “You know what. I still make my popcorn the same way: on the stovetop, with olive oil and butter and parmesan and dry basil.” The little things have just as much potential to be meaningfully remembered.
His comfort in the garden as a kid seems to be the seed that eventually gave rise to his passion for foraging and cooking. Like anything with growing potential, though, it needed to germinate first.
“I didn't really have a huge interest in food. Trombone was my jam and I was really good,” Lorenzo admits. The use of the word “jam” feels very appropriate in this context. →
Then, one summer, Lorenzo got a job as a food runner at a steakhouse. While it wasn’t necessarily an anticipated feeling, he noticed just how much he “really liked the intensity and speed of restaurants.” Life hurtled forward.
He enrolled in culinary school. He completed an apprenticeship at Lindey's Restaurant and Bar in German Village. He worked on a regenerative farm. He worked at a slaughterhouse. Reflecting on all these experiences back-toback-to-back, he notes, “I've had this kind of full food-system overlook. You know, understanding where food comes from, how it's distributed, why that all matters.”
Unexpectedly, a knee injury set him off course. Exercise had been a part of his daily routine (he was a physical trainer for 2 years), and now there was this health-shaped hole to fill. On Lorenzo’s road to recovery, his PT recommended a deeper look into nutrition. “I began to see how the decisions we make in the kitchen literally affect the composition of our body… on a cellular level.” We are creatures of motion full of even smaller creatures of motion. Lorenzo didn’t know it then, but this was the juncture that got him to where he is today.
Foraging was something that he had heard his buddies at various restaurants chatting about, but the activity didn’t immediately catch on for him. That was, until, “I was out hiking, just looking around,” he says, “and I saw them. They were everywhere.” What Lorenzo is referring to here are ramps, or wild leeks. And they were his first pull! So joyous! So oniony!
From that point on, any trek into the woods and stroll down the sidewalk has become an opportunity to fine-tune his identification skills. Memorizing binomial nomenclature, studying botanical macro and micro-structures, experimenting with their flavor profiles in the kitchen – this is the rabbit hole
Lorenzo careened down happily. And when I say “woods,” I really mean, “even urban parks well within city limits,” as one COOK FORAGE FEAST class takes participants to Schiller Park, in the urban heart of German Village—to find real, good food.
The twist is that his most poignant epiphany isn’t actually in the act of foraging—it’s in sharing what he has learned with others. That’s the philosophical motivation behind COOK FORAGE FEAST.
“If all I'm doing is inspiring people to get more interested in their local environment… that's OK. I really want people to, you know, get outside, get in tune with their surroundings, with the seasons… with themselves,” he emphasizes.
COOK FORAGE FEAST classes culminate in a dinner starring the kinds of nutrient-dense plants you’ll encounter while foraging. Plus, Lorenzo is plugged into the Columbus food scene, so you’ll be treated to additional local creations such as a Spicebush cold brew collaboration with coffee, infusion, and concentrate wizards, BrootLegg.
Lorenzo does not claim to be a master forager. He (and I) both want you to know that foraging can be dangerous and illegal if you don’t know what you’re doing. It is imperative to read up on local laws and to listen to and follow advice from experts. To double, then triple-check.
There is an abundance of cool and useful vegetation right beyond your doorstep. But remember: be smart, and be respectful! ♦
If you’re looking to participate in a COOK FORAGE FEAST class, keep a tab open on Lorenzo’s site, lorenzocooks.com/foraging, and follow him on Instagram @cookforagefeast & @lorenzo__cooks.
I really want people to, you know, get outside, get in tune with their surroundings, with the seasons... with themselves ”
Start your engines and your French press, because we’ve put together a coffeefueled, and coffeefocused, road trip from South Bend to Madison
The only thing better than a road trip is a road trip with a theme. The Buckeye State offers several different types of trails, from donuts to beer, but we think it’s time to let your palate head farther afield. The Midwest is chock-full of unique coffee shops that serve up delicious brews, along with some of the most interesting people, decor and experiences you can find. Plus the caffeine will make it a breeze to drive from state to state. That part is key.
810 Saginaw St.
For a quicker jaunt, make the (relatively) short trip to Cleveland and plan to spend a few hours at Edda Coffee Roasters at their downtown location. Order a cortado or opt to try one of their seasonal drink specials, like the latte flight, which includes three flavors. There’s plenty of sustenance available too, with a menu that includes salads, sandwiches and pastries. You won’t have any trouble finding a place in the expansive cafe, which offers several different seating options, perfect for chatting, working or reading.
527 E. Colfax Ave.
Spend some time in Indiana, starting with Sway Coffee in South Bend, which has become a surprising hub for coffee over the past few years. The sleek, modern cafe features indoor seating as well as stairs that lead up to a rooftop patio for enjoying the warmer months. Both students and the general public line up for Sway’s pour overs, flat whites, dirty chais and mochas. Grab a bite as well from their lineup of waffles, artisan toast and savory bowls – any choice you make here will be a good one.
Next we’re heading north to historic Bay City, MI, a straight shot from the cute college town of Ann Arbor (it’s not football season so we can say that). There you’ll find the flagship cafe of Populace Coffee, a spot that handpicks and roasts its own beans. Choose from an extensive selection of espresso and drip coffee, along with teas and house-made bagels. Then choose a spot to relax in the open space, featuring exposed brick and tons of natural light. Depending on the day, your visit might coincide with one of Populace's many community events, such as children’s story hour or a local makers market.
2324 Shelby St.
Your next Indiana stop takes you to Helm Coffee Roasters in Indianapolis. The roasting facility’s bright, inviting aesthetic encompasses a coffee bar and comfy, living room-esque furnishings. The focal point of Helm, a womenowned, LGBTQ+ business, is the large Ground Control brewer, which stands tall for batch brews. Guests will also find manual drip brews and cold brew, along with house-blended chai and house-made alternative milks. They are as well known for their approachable specialty coffee as they are for their welcoming, inclusive atmosphere.
Situated along the Chicago suburb’s popular Riverwalk, Sparrow Coffee’s location is the perfect base for a day of exploring the Water Street area. The industrial vibe works well here, with both bartop and communal table seating, and plenty of top-notch people-watching. Their roastery is located in Chicago’s West Loop, where Sparrow roasts the sustainable, organic beans that they source from all over the world. Choose your drink from the extensive beverage menu, which includes Chemex, nitro and cold brew options, as well as espresso, cappuccino and latte options.
Wonderstate has several locations, but we recommend visiting the Madison cafe, which is situated on the capital square. Its roastery in nearby Viroqua is 100% solar powered and their signature beans are roasted in small batches using a vintage 1930s Probat G-30 roaster. 95% of their coffees are certified organic, and are available as pour overs, in their espresso drinks, and in to-go in bags. You can also pick up a bottle of their cold brew or cold vanilla bean latte to take with you on the road.
Stock & Barrel editor Jack McLaughlin taste-tests a handful of unique, caffeine-infused snacks, so you don’t have to
By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Sarah Pfeifer Story Design by Tori SmithAs someone with high blood pressure and chronic insomnia, I can think of no better way to spend my time than eating snacks that science has found a way to pack to the brim with caffeine.
This installment of Snack Attack will feature everything from caffeine-packed (vegan) beef jerky, to gum drops with more caffeine than a cup of coffee in each one. We’ll taste them all and let you know our thoughts. In the name of science. Or something. →
It’s a bold move to omit added sugars, allergens and GMObased ingredients while deliberately adding caffeine, but we’re not complaining. Plus, even the most health-conscious of us need a boost from time to time. Interestingly, these coffee-flavored bars smelled like a coffee roaster when unwrapped, but not a ton of coffee flavor came through. Overall, not a bad option, especially if you’re eating clean. 120 MG
Full disclosure, I choked and potentially almost died while trying to eat one of these. While that should probably be attributed to user error, it’s something to think about. That being said, they offered a unique take on a classic that really worked. Think a Laffy Taffy flavored like a coffee with heavy cream, and you’ve got a pretty good idea of what these taste like.
The name of the company that makes this snack is Eat Your Coffee, and that pretty much sums it up. These are similar to the That’s It. bars both in size and texture, but what sets the Eat Your Coffee offering apart is their rich, caramel flavor. These are caramel macchiato-inspired, and they live up to this billing.
Just because we can doesn’t necessarily mean we should. Now that we have, however (created this snack, that is), I should make it clear that these exceeded my expectations. If you’re a texture person, maybe this isn’t your snack. But if you’re into bold spices and flavors, give them a shot. The seasoning blend on these doesn’t exactly scream “jerky” to me, but it’s so good that it doesn’t exactly matter to me either.
60 MG
As a former distance runner, I’m wellacquainted with the world of quick-energy snack pouches meant for athletes, but jelly beans are a new option in that field for me. That being said, they’re a pretty good one. As opposed to the carbohydrate gel that is, well, awful, these pretty much taste like regular jelly beans. There’s a tinge of something else going on in there, but if I didn’t know they
we mean it, as a single gummishot gummy boasts 75 mg of caffeine, and each threegummy pouch contains a whopping 225 mg.