23 Eat. Drink. (614).
R I S K AN D R E WAR D : C E LE B R ATI N G CO LU M B U S' CR E ATIVE K ITCH E N S
Winter 2020
MEET OUR GUEST EDITOR 18
ROUND PIE, SQUARE SLICES 56
THE HOLIDAY 12-PACK 20
COLUMBUS' CREATIVE KITCHENS 60
Get to know David Belknap, Executive Chef at Vaso. A look at a dozen Christmas beers from Ohio brewers.
BREWING UP 26
When it comes to pizza, Columbus is in a league of its own.
An in-depth look at Bonifacio, Comune, Veritas, and Service Bar + Watershed.
Wolf's Ridge's Clear Sky Daybreak combines coffee notes with exceptional beer.
CLASSY, NOT COSTLY 30
Three elevated cocktails made with bottom shelf liquor.
DEEP STEEP 34
Where to get some of the best tea the city has to offer this winter.
WINTER WARMERS 40
Brave the cold weather with these crafted cocktails.
HOW TO ENTERTAIN YOUR IN-LAWS 48
Where to take all of your out-of-town guests this holiday season.
FRY FOR ALL 52
French fries are no longer just a simple side dish at these restaurants.
ENA'S THROUGH THE YEARS 84
Ena's Carribean Kitchen celebrates 20 years of business.
SIMPLE SOLUTIONS 90
Simple Times Mixers offer easy options for upscale cocktails at home.
COVER PHOTO BY BRIAN KAISER ON THE COVER: Kara Kapow! Ramen by Satori Ramen Bar at the North Market
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CONTENTS
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FROM the EDITOR PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis
The Columbus I grew up in during the ‘80s and ‘90s was far from what you would call a “food city,” but I didn’t know that at the time. We ate the same standard Midwestern fare as almost everyone I knew: burgers, chicken, or the occasional fish fillet for dinner with an iceberg lettuce salad. International food was spaghetti, pizza or—in a nod to my Eastern European roots—bratwurst, plus a taco Tuesday or two thrown into the mix. Lunch likely contained cheese: either grilled, on macaroni, or on a sandwich with deli meat. On a given day, it’s pretty likely at least one of the above was on the menu. And that was absolutely fine. I was lucky to grow up with plenty to eat, and with relatively healthy options. What kid wouldn’t want to dig into most of the above? There is, to be clear, nothing wrong with standard Midwestern fare. But there’s also so much more out there. In hindsight, the years I spent as a vegetarian changed how I ate in ways I couldn’t have predicted at the time. When you cut about half of the foods out of the standard menu, you need to replace them with something. And so my friends and I started trying food from other cultures, where meat wasn’t always as heavily emphasized on the plate: Middle Eastern fare at Aladdins; Ethiopian entrees at the now-shuttered Blue Nile; Indian dishes at a place I’ve long-since forgotten the name of. Ironically, by restricting some food from my plate, I made room for flavors that I’d never tasted before. I’m a firm believer that food is a doorway into other cultures and new experiences. And recently, across Columbus, that door has swung wide open. Columbus today is home to countless restaurants where standard Midwestern fare doesn’t factor into the menu. In addition to an explosion of international restaurants across the city, Columbus chefs are reimagining traditional meals in unique and exciting ways: serving up food you thought you knew, until they remake it as new. In this issue of Stock & Barrel, we’re celebrating chefs with bold visions that find ways to push the boundaries of their meals and our taste buds, and somehow leave us wanting more at the end. David Belknap, the Executive Chef at Vaso—one of many restaurants in the city that offers dishes you can’t find anywhere else—was gracious enough to serve as a guest editor this month, helping us sort through some of the city’s most innovative and delicious offerings. And while we’re pretty happy with the creative kitchens we’ve chosen to include here, I’m equally happy knowing that we could have doubled the size of this issue and still not done justice to all the worthy restaurants across town that are breaking the traditional Midwestern mold. The options in the city have grown exponentially since I grew up. Even if your vacation time and budget keeps you in town all winter, there are restaurants here that will take you
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EDITOR IN CHIEF Linda Lee Baird ASSISTANT EDITOR Mitch Hooper PHOTO EDITOR Brian Kaiser 614NOW EDITOR Regina Fox STAFF WRITER Mike Thomas CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Rebecca Tien, Katie Forbes, Olivia James SENIOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS J.R. McMillan, Jaelani Turner-Williams
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Olivia Miltner, Melinda Green, Melissa Braithwaite, John McLaughlin,
COPY EDITOR Dan Sponseller CREATIVE DIRECTOR Alex Avery LEAD DESIGNER Sarah Moore PHOTO BY B R IA N KA ISER
around the world, as well as restaurants that will treat you to dishes you can’t find anywhere else in the world. We’ve also got advice on beverages—hot, cold, boozy, (or some combination thereof)—to get you through the dreariest months of the year; our picks for where to show off the city’s culinary offerings to out-of-town guests; and the lowdown on another dish that’s uniquely Columbus: our crackly-crusted, square-cut pizza. And let’s not forget french fries! We’ve found restaurants that serve them in ways deserving of their own creative kitchen recognition and compiled them for you. Lastly, it’s important to recognize that when a restaurant tries a new concept, it’s pushing back on preconceived notions that many of us have about what a meal is supposed to be. It’s a risk that doesn’t always pan out, but one that’s delightful when it does. So this winter, by all means, bulk up on as many burgers as you need to (I gave up that vegetarian diet years ago, and goodold red meat sure helps me get through the miserable months of January and February). But remember there’s a wider world out there, and you don’t have to go very far to taste it. We at Stock & Barrel hope this issue will help you do so. Happy exploring!
CREATIVE DESIGNERS Justin Remotap, Hugo Albornoz, Imana Onipe ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Derek Landers ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nikki Harris, Adam Swing, Mindy Wilhite DIGITAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Lori Brittenham EVENTS & SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Taylor Staus VIDEO PRODUCER John Thorne OPERATIONS MANAGER Megan Sheedy VP OF SALES AND MARKETING Lindsay Press (614) MAGAZINE 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215
Linda Baird Editor In Chief 614NOW.COM
Office: (614) 488-4400 Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614columbus.com www.614columbus.com
C ALENDAR 1
BY STO CK & B ARREL STAFF
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Learned Libations: Mastering The Art Of The Holiday Cocktail
Columbus Winter Beerfest
(614) Restaurant Week
LOCATION: Columbus Convention Center PRICE: $40-$90
LOCATION: Varies
Soulfully Sweet Love: A Couple’s Cake Decorating Workshop
LOCATION: Gravity PRICE: $55
As we prepare to enter the holiday season and round out the decade, it’s probably best that we do it with a strong cocktail in hand. And if we are able to create said cocktail ourselves, even better! At the Learned Libations class at Gravity, you’ll learn the ins and outs of building and garnishing a drink. The class will be hosted by none other than Christina Basham, master mixologist at Middle West Spirits, where she’ll teach you how to make the first drink, and then it’s up to you to concoct the second.
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Happy New Year! 2020 will be fully underway as the Columbus Winter Beerfest returns to the Convention Center for another year. Similarly to the last stop, visitors can find hundreds upon hundreds of IPAs, stouts, lagers, pilsners, and just about anything else they can dream up. This festival is two nights, meaning you’ll have to prepare yourself for this endurance test, but with a beer in hand and a designated driver by your side, we know you’ll pull through.
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PRICE: $15-$35
New year, same great deals on three course meals! (614)’s very own Restaurant Week is back in action! During Restaurant Week, anyone can visit one of the many participating restaurants to enjoy a three course meal ranging in price from $15 to $35. It’s the perfect weeknight date night option, or a way to treat yourself to double the food for half the cost. As always, follow (614) on social media for chances to win gift cards and prizes throughout the week!
LOCATION: 1400 Food Lab PRICE: $95-$125
Anyone who has baked a cake knows there’s so much more that goes into it than just flour, eggs, and sugar. It’s getting the oven perfectly set, selecting the right frosting to complement your flavors, and finding ways to decorate it without it looking like a child attempted it with their foot (and if you’re anything like us, you cakes typically turn out like the latter). Luckily, 1400 Food Lab in Dublin is hosting a class where you and your significant other (or best friend) can finally learn how to decorate your cakes like an episode of Cake Boss.
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2.29 Columbus Winter Wine Festival LOCATION: Brewmasters Gate PRICE: $15-$30
Just a month and a few days after the Beerfest dust settles, the Columbus Winter Wine Festival will be coming to town. It will be complete with food trucks, live musical entertainment, and of course, plenty of wine. Your purchased ticket grants you access to 10 wine samplings and a special commemorative glass to take home. Best of all: proceeds from the event will go towards benefitting the children's charity CD102.5 for the Kids.
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BIG PICTURE Squash soup from Veritas PHOTO BY BRIAN KAISER
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INTRODUCING GUEST EDITOR
DAVID BELKNAP
BY L I NDA L E E B AI R D P HOTO BY B RI AN KAI S E R
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David Belknap, Executive Chef at Vaso, dishes on Columbus restaurants that are filling bellies while pushing boundaries.
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hen we went to put together our list of the most creative kitchens in Columbus—places that were guaranteed to give diners an experience outside of the traditional restaurant mold—we wanted to do our due diligence and run it by a pro. So we reached out to David Belknap, Executive Chef at Vaso, and invited him to serve as our guest editor this month. He helped us compile some restaurants that are doing something outside of, what he calls, “the cookie cutter menu of Columbus, Ohio.” While this is not an exhaustive list—space and time limitations prevent us from giving lengthy write-ups of every place that’s deserving—it’s telling that Columbus today has so many options to chose from. From elevated plant-based cuisine at places like Comune and Woodhouse Vegan, to family-style meals shared with strangers in the Filipino tradition at Bonifacio, as well as craft cocktails served alongside imaginative and Instagram-worthy plates at Watershed, Columbus’ culinary scene has grown to offer something for everyone, a trend that Belknap is eager to see continue. An outside-of-the-box chef himself, bringing non-traditional takes on tapas to diners at Vaso, Belknap is glad to be part of Columbus’ emerging scene after cooking in kitchens across the country, most recently in New York City. “When I left [Columbus] 20 years ago, part of the reason I left was because there was nothing exciting,” he said. Dinner at nice restaurants in those days was exactly what you were expecting: a salad, an appetizer, a main dish, and a dessert. Period. But the times, they are a-changing. Restaurants are popping up across the city featuring everything from small plates to family-style portions, with sharing built into the model; places that, in Belknap’s words, “[make] it more normal to reach over and grab something off of someone else’s plate.” And while the old saying goes that, “different is good,” breaking the mold in a traditional town comes with its own risks. “To do something different, and risk not being able to pay your rent and not being able to pay your staff… it rarely works out, actually,” Belknap said. But it can work out, when chefs are able to do what they do best and cook. “Some of these aren’t destination restaurants. People aren’t going just because of the scene or the vibe, they’re going for the food.” He explained what excites him about some of our featured restaurants.
“Jacob Inscore over at Comune is doing something different by cooking 100% plant-based while still keeping the food hip but approachable. He’s using ethnic flavors that challenge the Midwest pallet and introducing a lot of people to exciting vegetarian cuisine,” Belknap said. “Avishar Barua over at Service Bar… [brings] his experiences from around the world to the dinner table. I’m sure his time spent at WD-50 and Mission Chinese in New York ingrained that meticulous attention to detail that a lot of chefs lack.” Belknap also credits Veritas’ Josh Dalton with bringing molecular gastronomy to town. “He’s the only one in Columbus daring enough to operate a modern fine dining restaurant in a town built on mac and cheese and chicken wings,” Belknap said. As the Executive Chef at Vaso, Belknap is charged with creating new Spanish-inspired dishes for every season. In addition to keeping the dishes exciting, he’s paying careful attention to modern diets and diners' preferences, to ensure that anyone who is up for an eating adventure at Vaso can be accommodated. His winter menu is 25% vegetarian and 95% gluten-free. “I’m very aware of ingredients and why I use them and when I use them. If I don’t feel that something needs to have chicken stock, I’m not going to use chicken stock,” he said. When invited to share his new menu’s highlights, Belknap mentioned two vegetarian dishes—a vegan candied curry cauliflower, and eggplant tacos—as well as a smoked duck cannoli for the meat eaters. Increasing quality and quantity of vegetarian offerings on menus across the city is something that Belknap predicts will continue to occur in the coming years. “It’s more because chefs are getting so creative with it,” he said, adding that chefs are eschewing traditional tofu and tempeh dishes in favor of “using ingredients in whole new ways.” With the gray skies of winter settling in, a good meal can bring some much-needed spice to these otherwise bland months. It’s a great time to try something new. And it’s safe to say that here in Columbus, there’s never been a better time to eat. •
Vaso is located at 6540 Riverside Dr. in Dublin on top of the AC Hotel.
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the TWELVE OF CHRISTMAS
OHIO BREWERS OFFER PLENT Y OF HOLIDAY–THEMED BEERS THIS SEASON 20
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BY MI TCH HOOPER P H OTOS BY BRI A N KA I S ER
hile many of you are excited about the upcoming holiday season, we here at Stock & Barrel are excited about the holiday drinking. Though summer ales and Oktoberfest beers are tried-and-true classics, the annual release of Christmas-style beers into grocery stores forever reigns supreme as the best Christmas miracle in our books—guaranteed to satisfy you no matter what holiday you celebrate this time of year. What’s not to love about these beers? Some of them manage to cram the very essence of Christmas into a can; others play with flavors and spices that are the perfect warm up on a cold day. And just like the bearded man himself, these beers only come once a year. So with that in mind, we have a lot of drinking to do before the season comes and goes. Here are 12 beers worth checking out this season, and perhaps even shelve a few away for Christmas in July. • 614NOW.COM
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RHINEGEIST DAD ALE
Rhinegeist’s take on the holiday beer is the perfect middle ground. While it features many of the holiday favorites—hop spice, citrus, and caramel malt—it also maintains a light and very sippable body with an ABV of 6%. While this beer is delicious, Stock & Barrel is not responsible for any and all dad jokes made while drinking.
FAT HEAD HOLLY JOLLY ALE
With hints of sweetness, honey, and spices, everything about this beer screams Christmas. The Holly Jolly Ale is a mediumbodied brew boasting a 7.4% ABV, making it an easy drinker that packs a holiday punch.
THIRSTY DOG 12 DAYS OF CHRISTMAS
Get it while it’s cold! The Thirsty Dog 12 Days of Christmas is a powerful brew with an 8% ABV, but it’s only available until Dec. 31. This beer features honey, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg, giving it that signature holiday flavor and a low IBU for anyone who doesn’t like the bitter tastes of IPAs.
COLUMBUS BREWING COMPANY CITRA NOEL
No local Christmas beer list is complete without CBC, and it’s for good reason. Their beers are consistently some of the best in town and the Citra Noel is a testament to that. In addition to a rich and malty profile, this holiday ale features tropical flavors thanks to the Citra hops used in the brewing process. Just be careful with these brews as they boast an ABV of 7.3%.
WOLF’S RIDGE SNOW CONE
If you’re looking for a more hoppy adventure, Wolf’s Ridge Snow Cone is a nice combination of wintery flavors with bitter notes thanks to it being a pale ale. The overall mouthfeel of this brew is light, and the finish is crisp, meaning you can enjoy quite a few of these without feeling bloated or full like some of the more heavy holiday beers can do.
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MARKET GARDEN FESTIVUS
Deciding to purchase a case of Festivus means you are all-in. This is more than just a spiced brew with notes of allspice, ginger, and nutmeg; it’s an all day experience. This beer is inspired by the famous episode of Seinfeld so prepare to tell your loved ones how they disappointed you, plan a Festivus dinner, and engage in the always-entertaining feats of strength.
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BREW KETTLE WINTER WARMER
Sporting a fresh new can design, Brew Kettle Winter Warmer is back for another holiday season. It seems that as this list grows, the ABV does too, and Winter Warmer’s 8.2% ABV keeps that trend alive. This brew combines spices like cinnamon with ginger, orange peels, and lemon peels, as well as honey for an added sweet touch. •
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LAND-GRANT BEARD CRUMBS
Land-Grant takes the traditional spicy Christmas brew and goes in a different direction. This beer is an oatmeal raisin stout with hints of chocolate, coffee, and caramelized raisins. Sure, this beer is a little heavy, but that’s exactly what you need to warm you up on a cold day.
PLATFORM ESTHER
Attention imbibers: proceed with caution! Platform Esther is not messing around during the holidays as this brew has an ABV of 9.5%! But, don’t let the high alcohol percentage scare you off. There’s tons of flavor here thanks to ingredients like cherry, and as your drink gets a little warmer, more notes of toffee become prevalent.
GREAT LAKES CHRISTMAS ALE
No Christmas beer list is complete without a shout out to Great Lakes Christmas Ale. This beer is full of holiday spirit and hits a nice 7.5% ABV. Our pro tip is to take your favorite pint glass, add a little cinnamon and sugar to the rim, and pour up a tall one of these Christmas Ales. You can thank us now, or later. 24
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BARLEY’S CHRISTMAS ALE
For Barley’s, making batches of their Christmas Ale is a tradition they hold dearly. It’s something they’ve been doing since 1993. This beer starts with loads and loads of fresh orange peels in addition to fresh young ginger, whole cinnamon sticks, and organic honey. With a medium body and an ABV of 6.6%, this beer is great for sitting around the fire with the family, or bellying up to the dinner table.
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HOMESTEAD TANNENBAUM
Last, but certainly not least, is Homestead Tannenbaum, an herbs-andspices Christmas ale boasting flavors of ginger with caramel-flavored malt notes. This brew is medium-bodied and sits at a 7.3% ABV, giving it a nice balance of drinkability to alcohol percentage. And if you prefer the bitterness from hops, this brew has an IBU of 45, placing it squarely in the middle ground range. •
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BREW BY M E L ISSA BRA I THWA I TE P H OTOS BY REBECCA TI EN
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WOLF’S RIDGE BREWERY combines your favorite morning beverage with your favorite evening beverage in its award-winning coffee beer.
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t’s a fairly universal problem: Is it too early for a beer? Too late for a coffee? Enter coffee beer. Lucky for us, Columbus is home to some of the best coffee beer around. Wolf’s Ridge Brewing was recently awarded a coveted silver medal at Denver’s Great American Beer Festival, whose winners are recognized world-wide as the best of the best. Clear Sky Daybreak, its best-selling unusual coffee beer, has made Chris Davison, the brewery’s head brewmaster, a sort of local celebrity among craft beer enthusiasts and beer buyers. “People who don’t know much about beer know about this competition,” he said. “Members of our staff have had relatives congratulate them and beer buyers all over town are yelling ‘congratulations!’ to our drivers.” With nearly 9,500 entries from 2,700 breweries and only about 300 awards to go around, the award from the Great American Beer Festival is an important win for Columbus’s Wolf’s Ridge Brewing. “The competition keeps getting fiercer,” Davison said. “Wolf’s Ridge has been entering the competition since 2014, and this is our first win.” Davison is extremely passionate about his craft. He’s also open to experimentation. “The first time I wanted to experiment (with coffee beer), I just grabbed some coffee from the restaurant and it produced really good beer,” he said. He decided he wanted to know more about the coffee he was using and figure out what would be best for the beer, so he reached out to Dave Forman and Mick Evans of Columbus-based One Line Coffee. The men have become friends and collaborators over the years, and Davison says the partnership is to credit for the award-winning brew. Coffee is complex, said Forman, director of coffee for One Line. “Within a cup of coffee, there can be up to 800 distinct molecular structures we can taste and smell. A lot are shared with fruits and flowers, things like that,” he said. “When we taste an apple, we taste malic acid and we associate that flavor with apple, but it can • 614NOW.COM
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also be in coffee. I’ve literally had a coffee that tastes more like a carnation than a peony. That’s always been the way we’ve talked about coffee. Finding a brewer that understands that was awesome.” Fortunately for coffee beer lovers, the feeling is mutual. “They work with farms with good practices, and it is really very high-quality coffee,” Davison said. “In general, we are very fortunate to be working with One Line Coffee. [Our collaboration] started because it was the convenient answer, but they truly do make some of the best coffee in the country,” he said. “The beer would not be what it is without them, their support, and knowledge.” Coffee beers are typically dark, heavy and robust. What makes Clear Sky Daybreak stand out is its blonde appearance and slightly shifting flavor profile. “Because it’s not a Starbucks coffee or something like that, the exact same bean is not always available. So for Clear Sky Daybreak, which we are brewing year-round, it can sometimes have a more chocolatey or nutty profile and other times it’s more fruity and mellow,” Davison said. “We do try to have consistency in the beer, and the consumer really likes a medium-roast flavor that’s a little more chocolate-forward than fruity.” Achieving that perfect flavor profile was not a simple feat. It took
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Davison’s persistence and some tweaking. “We tried adding cold brew; we tried crushing the beans and sieving it. There are all kinds of ways you can edit,” he said. “The profile I prefer comes from using the whole bean. That combination helps extract the oil from the coffee bean, so you get the flavor and aroma without the acidity. It’s a smooth flavor.” In the award-winning beer, One Line’s Colombia El Progreso coffee beans really shine. “What I really love is that if someone is drinking the beer and asking about it, they can get a cup of the coffee right now [from Wolf’s Ridge Brewing’s restaurant],” Davison said. Additionally, Wolf’s Ridge uses only real Madagascar Vanilla beans in the beer. “They are expensive, but we have strong feelings about how real vanilla is better. It makes almost any beer better,” he said. The high-quality vanilla adds a hint of sweetness, without being “sweet” per se. Both Davison and Forman says they feel honored to have been part of the creation of this popular beer. “We are super happy for them, and they are one of my favorite customers because of all the collaborative work we do,” Forman said. “If Wolf’s Ridge is successful, then that’s good for us, too.” Davison said he’s humbled by the win, given the tough competition. “We put an incredible amount of passion and thought into this. Since I have been a professional brewer, it’s something I’ve dreamt about.” • Visit Wolf’s Ridge Brewing at 215 N 4th St. For hours and operations, visit wolfridgebrewing.com. 614NOW.COM
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BY M I K E TH O M AS P HOTOS BY B R I A N KA I S E R
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Low End
High End
Top shelf tastes, bottom shelf budget: 3 classy cocktails you can make with cheap liquor
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hile everyone should enjoy a taste of the good life now and again, those fancy cocktails sure do add up quickly. But enjoying a high-end drink doesn’t have to come with an astronomical bar tab. Take it from Kyle Nelson, Beverage Director at one of the city’s finest watering holes, Service Bar. “If you’re putting a lot of different things into a cocktail that masks the flavor of the liquor, you really don’t need to go any higher than seven to ten dollars [per bottle],” he explains. “If you’re drinking a vodka tonic or a vodka soda and you want it to be a little more neutral, then you definitely want to spend a little more. But a cheap bottle, a ‘bottom shelf’ bottle, will do just fine when you’re masking it.” Kyle took a break from serving up some of the best high-falutin’ cocktails in the city to share three top-notch drink recipes you can make at home with bottom shelf liquor. Try these dirt-cheap mixological wonders for yourself, and wow your friends without breaking the bank.
KESS ME An upscale take on one of Nelson’s personal favorite combos—Kessler Whiskey and Sun Drop Soda—this cocktail offers maximum bang for the buck. 2 oz Kessler .25 oz Noble Cut Limoncello .5 oz lime juice .5 oz lemon juice .75 oz simple syrup (1:1 sugar:water) Two dashes orange bitters INSTRUCTIONS: Shaken. Strain into a Collins glass over crushed ice. Top with soda. Garnish with dehydrated lime and lemon wheel •
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CRYSTAL 75 A twist on the classic French 75, this version plays up the spice and smoke through the rare (and surprisingly complementary) combination of gin and mescal. 1.5 oz Crystal Palace Gin .5 oz Ancho Reyes Verde Poblano Liqueur .25 oz Del Maguey Vida Mezcal .5 oz lemon juice .5 oz simple syrup (1:1 sugar:water) INSTRUCTIONS: Shaken. Double strain into an oversized champagne flute. Top with sparkling wine (cava or brut). Garnish with a lemon twist.
KORSKI KLUB This cocktail swaps the gin in a traditional Clover Club for the more neutral vodka. With complex mouthfeel and flavor from the egg and fresh berries, this sophisticated drink comes in at around 20 cents per glass. 2 oz Korski Vodka .25 oz Creme de Cassis .5 oz lemon juice .75 oz simple syrup (1:1 sugar:water) .5 oz egg white 8 fresh raspberries INSTRUCTIONS: Muddle raspberries in with all ingredients. Dry shake first (no ice). Hard shake second (with ice). Double strain into large coupe glass. Garnish with skewered raspberries. •
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tea time Is winter getting too chill for you? Here are three places to fight the cold with a mug of hot tea. •
BY JO H N M CLAUGHLI N P H OTOS BY O LI VI A K. JAM ES
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asterisk supper club While many businesses pride themselves on their massive varieties of tea, others, such as Westerville’s Asterisk Supper Club, eschew numbers in order to make absolutely sure the teas they offer are top-notch quality. For Megan Ada, owner of Asterisk, this process is one of the most demanding, but ultimately most rewarding aspects of her job. “I think I spend more time sourcing teas than people involved in craft beer.” Ada’s diligent approach yields a rotating menu of roughly 15 options that smartly incorporate a wide representation of styles and varieties. The owner’s favorite option is Blue Belle, a delicate yet deftly flavorful white tea infused with blueberry and sourced from Columbus. Additionally, the bold and spicy Masala Chai is another standout item. Asterisk began as a tea house, and as such, tea will always be the crux of their service. However, the Westerville restaurant has successfully expanded its offerings, first setting out a menu of sweet and savory tea accompaniments, and later a full lunch and dinner menu. Their tea sandwiches offer a twist on age-old favorites. Some items include a double-decked cucumber and cream cheese, an egg salad with pepper, tomato, and micro greens, and even sweet options featuring strawberry, honey, and cream cheese on raisin bread. But that’s not all. Ada notes that the business first opened as a specialty tea establishment, but customers enjoyed their experience and wanted more. “People would say that they wanted lunch options, and even dinner, so that’s what we did,” she said. Currently, Asterisk offers tea from noon until 4:00 pm, a lunch or “Midday” menu from noon until 3:00 pm, and a dinner menu from 3:00 pm until 10:00 pm, featuring a fun and approachable list of hearty entrees. Asterisk is located at 14 N State St. 36
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zencha ZenCha, in the Short North, currently serves over 100 varieties of tea from nine different counties to its loyal customer base. One of the eatery’s notable offerings is its bubble tea, an item that has become increasingly popular in North America over the last two decades. Served with tapioca balls and a wide straw, the item becomes a blurry mixture of food and drink that’s truly fun to consume. ZenCha serves theirs with either a green or black tea base, and a variety of flavors to choose from including mango, passion fruit, and taro, as well as options with milk. Far more than just bubble tea, though, ZenCha opens the gates to a litany of possibilities for tea lovers, and the cafe truly shines with its vast array of fun and exotic offerings. Beside fruit teas and lattes, the shop sells varieties from the expected host of tea-loving countries such as Japan, China, Taiwan, and Great Britain, but it also offers options from Germany, India, Africa, the Middle East, and South America. ZenCha also sets itself apart from other traditional tea houses with its food. Instead of scones and small sandwiches, the cafe employs an eclectic Asian-fusion menu with offerings such as Okonomiyaki (a savory Japanese pancake topped with crispy vegetables and your choice of protein), dumpling soup, and an array of exciting waffles infused with teainspired flavors, such as Earl Grey, lavender, and masala chai. • ZenCha is located at 982 N High St.
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koko tea salon & bakery Koko Tea Salon & Bakery makes writing about tea about pretty challenging. When you execute both tea and bakery items at an elite level (the cafe was named best bakery in Columbus by (614) readers several times and was featured on Food Networks’ Best Thing I Ever Ate), where is a writer to start? Well, here goes. Offering 77 different varieties, Koko’s owner Ava Misseldine prides herself on maintaining exceptional leaf quality. “A teaspoon [of their leaf] is normally enough for 20 ounces of water ,” said Misseldine, who founded Koko Tea Salon and Bakery eight years ago, and opened a second location at Easton. “You can tell our teas are excellent quality. One of the things that I like is all of their aromas smell just like they taste. It’s disappointing when a tea smells great but doesn’t taste the same.” Some of the establishment’s signature teas include their Lemon Creme, (“It tastes just like my Nana’s lemon cake!” Misseldine said,) and Roasted Almond, which balances a fine nutty flavor with a handful of choice spices. Another blend offers black tea mixed with four different berry varieties. “There’s a great natural sweetness in it without us having to add any sugar,” Misseldine said. And I would truly be remiss neglecting to mention Koko’s baked goods. They’re known for their Parisian macarons, but also offer a variety of other items, such as cake and cupcakes. Misseldine also creates custom cakes for weddings and other special occasions. Misseldine states that all of Koko’s Baked goods are crafted with European baking sensibilities, meaning they don’t contain excess sugar, sweetness, or artificial flavors. • Koko Tea Salon & Bakery is located on 3951 Easton Square Pl.
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Winter for Your Winter Spirits to lift your spirit during winter’s darkest days
BY M EL I N DA G R EEN P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I S E R
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he winter blues are about to get real. When the temperature falls, or when you get that first hint of maaaaybe coming down with a cold, what do you do to lift your spirits — figuratively and literally? One option is to go out for a nice, warm (or at least warming) adult beverage or two. Now, we’re not advocating that you go out distributing the common cold at bars when you’re miserable and contagious. But when you get that first scratch in the back of your throat, before it turns into something, a hot toddy or cider can make you feel a little more right with the world. It might even help you kick that bug to the curb. And even if you’re not feeling under the weather physically, Ohio winters sure can usher in the blahs. It’s cloudy. It’s damp. It’s gray. It’s windy, and cold, and slushy. We can help, no matter what type of cocktail you like. One surefire way to beat the winter blues is to light a nice, warm fire. The Light of Seven Matchsticks, in Worthington, takes it one further with their hot buttered rum. Sure, any bar can put together the requisite rum, butter, sugar, and spices. But how many of those bars set it on fire and toss it between mugs as it heats? The theatrics are as impressive as the drink, and you’re practically guaranteed to start feeling much better even before that first sip. Or stop by The Crest, where they’ve pulled out all the stops for their winter menu. The season’s drinks are presented in a hardbound book, where beverage director Collin Minnis and artist Paula Jackson provide elegant descriptions, stories, and illustrations, sure to bring a smile to your face. Ellie’s Drinking Chocolate has the warm, heady aroma and fiery bite of aged rum, combined with German chocolate, heavy cream, and a touch of sea salt. Luxe and velvety, garnished with a toasted marshmallow, this is your favorite childhood hot cocoa all grown up. The Beekeeper Toddy is smoky and sophisticated, combining tequila and hibiscus mezcal with hot lapsang souchong tea and honey from The Crest’s own rooftop hives. The longer the tea steeps, the smokier and richer the flavor gets. As far as hot toddies go, this one stands in a league of its own.
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Barrel & Taps, on Third Avenue in Grandview, has a more straightforward version, made with Earl Grey tea and the bar’s barrel pick of bourbon. At 120 proof, the liquor packs a punch, but it’s smooth. The bergamot and oak balance nicely with hints of honey, lemon, and cinnamon. This is one drink you might have to pace yourself on. Or order some food from the food truck outside and have two. If tea’s not so much your thing, Barrel & Taps also has a warm apple cider, with clove, cinnamon, and your choice of bourbon. Made with the barrel pick, it’s definitely alcoholic, but juicy and smooth, with the perfect level of spice and no unwelcome bite from the booze. You can substitute caramel vodka for the bourbon, too, if you’re looking for more sweetness in your cider. A warm caramel apple to chase the blues away? Sounds like a plan. What if you don’t like hot drinks, though? Well, you’re in luck. Winter cocktails don’t have to be hot to warm the body and soul. The Light of Seven Matchsticks has some fantastic new seasonal selections, including Bucking Fananas. From the first sip of this mix of Watershed bourbon, coffee-infused carpano, and banana liqueur, you’ll feel warmth spread throughout your body. Sure, bananas and coffee evoke the tropics, but this is less “toes in the sand” and more “sitting by a roaring fire, dreaming of backpacking in Costa Rica, while sleet encases your car outside.” They also serve the implausibly delicate Snack Pack, made with an infusion of the popular butterscotch treat. You heard that right: they infused butterscotch pudding into a drink. With cognac and a little straight-up vanilla extract, it’s cold, light, and sweet, like a crisp snowfall—that also tastes like butterscotch. Denmark on High will bring back its popular Café Columbus, a mixture of cold-brew coffee, bourbon, vanilla nutmeg syrup, and amaretto whipped cream. Or try their barrel-rested Old Man Winter: Old Forester rye, Nocino, house-made vanilla liqueur, and a minty amaro. And then, maybe you’re cozy enough in a sweater and scarf and just want something light and delicious for a dreary-day pick-me-up. Barrel & Taps’ Holiday Mule, full of gin, cranberry-orange simple, spices, and ginger beer, is a delightful clear-to-cranberry ombré and tastes like holiday cheer in a glass. If none of these light your fire, there are plenty more seasonal beverages in nearly every corner of the city—so put on your coat and boots, go grab a drink, and chase those blues away! •
Light of the Seven Matchsticks is located at 5601 N High St. in Worthington. The Crest has locations at 2855 Indianola Ave. in Clintonville and 621 Parsons Ave. downtown. Barrel & Taps is located at 1380 W 3rd Ave. in Grandview. Denmark on High is located at 463 N High St. in the Short North.
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CHANGING SEASONS AT THE SYCAMORE
BY J O HN M CL AUGHL I N PHOTOS BY REB E CCA TI E N
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f we’re being totally honest here, the idea of locally sourced food has become so trendy in almost every contemporary dining scene, that it’s easy for this idea to become a place marker: something your favorite local restaurant does out of habit or appeasement for an increasingly conscious customer base. Peter Nuñez, new head chef of German Village’s The Sycamore, does not fall into this category. His belief in the idea of local sourcing along with recognizing and appreciating our area farmland is nothing short of absolutely sincere. “When we talk about local here, we’re not doing it because it’s cool. We’re doing it because it’s the right thing to do. I want to help these places stay in business; I want to pay tribute to the people who pick and harvest produce,” he said. Nuñez, who originally hails from California and is a veteran of the Navy, has worked in restaurants beginning in the year 2000. His culinary career has taken him from Virginia to Phoenix to Easton Mall, and more. Most recently cooking at The Guild House in Columbus, he slowly developed important relationships with Central Ohio farmers such as Purple Plains Farm, Three Creeks Produce and Bluejacket Dairy. For Nuñez, these bonds have become more important than simply business relationships, with none being more critical than his friendship with the owners of Mitchell’s Berries in Plain City. Nuñez and the owners have developed a close friendship, and they have even given him a small plot on their farm to do with what he wishes. “I’ve been sober for nine years now; and I needed something else to fill that gap. I found that going in to these farms, in walking these farms, and I
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got almost obsessed with it,” Nuñez said. Not only are his visits a release for himself, but Nuñez sees them paying dividends to his children as well. He recalls a story where his threeyear-old daughter warned him against pulling too many dandelions, due to their importance for pollinators. “I get emotional talking about it; I have chills,” he said. And he’s been using this passion to transform the Sycamore’s menu into a tasteful and delicious farm-to-table experience for hungry Ohioans. While a few long-standing menu items such as the hamburger and hot chicken sandwich remained largely the same after Nuñez took over in August, the majority of The Sycamore’s dishes have been majorly reworked or replaced altogether. Nuñez plans on releasing a new full menu every season from now on and will work to pack them full of locally-sourced options. Keep an eye out for a squash dish called Callavasa—a nod to his California upbringing— that's served with smoked pumpkin seeds and a pepper vinaigrette. “I’m getting 50 pound bags from Hershberger Farms with so many different types of squash, and we want to feature them all,” Nuñez said. During a recent visit, I sampled a vegetable dish from the winter menu—a fantastic combination of charred carrots, pea purée, and sassafras vinaigrette from Seven Acre Farm in Dublin. The heirloom carrots impart a beautifully smoky and almost meaty flavor, deftly complemented by the light, creamy purée and balanced with the vinaigrette’s tangy zing. With a seasonally changing menu, even some crowd-pleasing favorites have to go. This winter, Nuñez plans to swap out the Sycamore’s guacamole for a rotating hummus dish. “If I could serve guacamole all year, I would, but you have to ask, Is that the right thing to do? with avocado prices, with all these fires in California. People there are trying to rebuild their lives right now.” And when you’re talking about winter menus, you have to think about hearty entrees to warm you up on cold nights. Nuñez doesn’t disappoint here. Look for a coffee-rubbed short rib (sourced from Blue Ribbon in Cleveland), with whipped sweet potatoes featuring a hickory syrup, all accompanied by bacon Brussels sprouts. Other featured items include a braised pork-belly dish, chicken with mushroom Marsala sauce, and a lobster mac and cheese. No matter the time of year, expect that The Sycamore will be offering up something tasty and local for you to explore. And, maybe even better, to feel good about eating. • Visit The Sycamore at 262 E Sycamore St in German Village, or at thesycamoregv.com. 614NOW.COM
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ECLECTIC ENTERTAINING:
An Insider’s Guide for Out-of-Town Guests BY J.R. MCMILLIA N | P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SE R
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olumbus is the city of the next century. But sometimes it’s difficult to see during your daily drive; even harder if you’re only home for the holidays. If that long-lost college cohort or twice-removed cousin hasn’t stopped by since the waning days of MySpace, the local to-do list is almost too long to fathom. So if you’re looking for someplace new or unique to impress your out-of-town guests, consider these enviable options.
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WHERE TO FIND UNPRETENTIOUS EATS WELL AFTER MIDNIGHT Hounddog’s Pizza · 2657 N High Street
The Old North is just far enough away from campus and just south enough of Clintonville to carve out its own neighborhood identity. Columbus-style pizza is still king, but the chewy garlic butter handle of Smokin’ Joes hand-tossed crust and sauce are essential. Try the veggie-heavy Backyard Dog, or keep it classic with spicy Italian sausage, fresh garlic, and extra cheese. Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog Palace · 248 S 4th Street This once sleepy stretch of street has become a downtown hub of hip haunts in the past decade. Choose from more than three dozen signature hot dogs, brats, polish sausages, or veggie dogs—or create your own. The Pittsburgh Princess is a notable nod to Primanti Brothers’ legendary sandwich, dressed with creamy slaw, hand-cut fries, and a splash of malt vinegar.
WHERE TO TAKE YOUR SIBLINGS WHO THINK THE SUBURBS AREN’T SOPHISTICATED Lupo on Arlington · 2124 Arlington Avenue An obscure enclave of boutique retail shops may not seem like the obvious complement for Spanish small plates. But the dynamic tapas menu was the perfect fit for the former bank whose exposed vault door mechanisms remain a decorative accent. Though the featured fare changes frequently, the octopus a la plancha and lamb meatballs have become much-beloved staples.
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Hen Quarter · 6628 Riverside Drive Southern standards find a fresh take at the intersection of rustic and refined. Don’t let their bottomless brunch delay your visit. Succulent fried chicken served with brown butter waffles, bourbon maple syrup, and a side of collards are always on the menu—as are the impressive smoked short ribs, with ginger cilantro rice, brussels sprouts, and green tomato kimchi.
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Columbus Axe Throwing · 560 S High Street Channel your inner lumberjack with a sport more dangerous than darts, but still slightly safer than jousting. Few seasonal frustrations and family feuds can’t be settled by a few rounds of hurling a lethal hunk of steel at a wooden target. Even amateurs will leave better prepared for the zombie apocalypse. Ash & Em’s smart “starters” and smashed burgers are equally sharp. Pins Mechanical · 141 N 4th Street and 6558 Riverside Drive Duckpin bowling, pinball, and ping pong dominate this novel destination for kinetic entertainment, now with an additional location in Dublin. Start with paddles, a little flipper action, or foosball as an appetizer. The diminutive dimensions of duckpin make it the perfect scale for kids of all ages, with adults-only hours after 8 p.m. Rotating food trucks keep the menu fresh.
PI N S P H OTOS BY M EGAN LE I GH BARNARD
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WHERE TO SETTLE A BET WITH FRIENDS WHO LIKE TO KEEP SCORE
WHERE TO IMBIBE ELEVATED COCKTAILS WITH A VIEW TO MATCH Juniper · 580 N 4th Street The standard speakeasy is a hidden haunt. But this one literally ups the ante by hiding on the roof of Smith Brothers Hardware, offering Caribbean cuisine and just the right vantage of the city skyline. Try a plate of authentic Johnny cakes and the crispy-skin parrot fish coupled with one of their reimagined, rohibition-era cocktails like the Tropical Knees, Lion’s Tail, or Pith and Peel. Lincoln Social · 711 N High Street Del Mar SoCal Kitchen’s Midwest twist on coastal cuisine is perhaps only rivaled by its sister establishment’s exclusive rooftop patio. Among the more innovate alcoholic beverage offerings, Cameron Mitchell can also claim the city’s first CBD “mocktail”. Mellow Beets is a raw juice blend of beet, carrot, apple, and ginger balanced by a cannabis-infused, blood orange soda.
WHERE TO GO WITH THOSE WHO SEEK AND SAVOR SOMETHING SECRET Sacred Palm · 457 N High Street High Street has plenty of hotspots, but few are as elusive as the one in the basement of Mikey’s Late Night Slice in the Short North. Cleverly concealed by an old walk-in cooler beyond repair is a secret tiki bar. Tropical tropes set the tone for the tiny oasis illuminated in pink and purple. Umbrella drinks served in ceramic tumblers complete the immersive, island-inspired experience. The Light of Seven Matchsticks · 5601 N High Street The unmarked entrance for the underground establishment beneath Natalie’s Coal-Fired Pizza is entirely on-brand for the quaint and quirky bar about the size of a box car. Wes Anderson himself would be hard-pressed to improve on the iconoclastic niche whose namesake is the fictitious tome featured in his film, Moonrise Kingdom. Even the bar’s select menu is a secret.
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• P O UTIN E F R IE S F R OM P E C A N P E N N Y'S
THE FRIES
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BY MITCH HOOPER PHOTOS BY KAT I E FOR BES
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ho would’ve thought there would be such a heated debate when it comes to French fries? They are so simple, yet so controversial. Do you put your ketchup on the side, or cover your fries in it? Crispy or soggy? Shoestring or crinkle cut? McDonald’s or Wendy’s? Or Burger King? Does a tater tot count as a French fry? What about waffle fries? Or curly fries? If your head is spinning from all these spuds, that’s a good thing. While fries are typically just a sidekick to the main entree, people really care about these fried potatoes. And right here in Columbus, we’re seeing people take the fast food staple to a new level. Dipping your fries into ketchup or a Frosty is so last year; now we have fries topped with mussels or even kimchi! It’s time for you to see what the future of fries holds, and Stock & Barrel is here to point you in the right direction. •
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Irish Fries | Byrne’s Pub 1248 W Third Ave. • The bond between drinking and nachos is strong, and Byrne’s Pub is all too aware of that. But instead of the traditional tortilla chip base, Byrne’s swaps in waffle fries. The waffle fries are crispy and seasoned and come doused in Cheez Whiz. Then the fries are topped with jalapenos, onions, tomatoes, bacon, and avocado to fully round out the nod to nachos. We recommend getting this just for yourself, but good luck fighting off all your friends who keep stealing bites. Poutine Fries | Pecan Penny’s 113 E Main St. Look, we said the fries were delicious, not healthy. At Pecan Penny’s, the poutine fries are the pinnacle of indulgence. This Canadian-inspired dish comes with a bed of seasoned waffle fries smothered in brown gravy, cheddar cheese, green onions, and a fried egg. This order is massive, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a fry that isn’t completely covered in gravy and cheese. There’s also the option to add brisket or pulled pork to the dish, and hey, if you’re spending the extra calories, you might as well go all the way. Truffle Fries | Arch City Tavern 862 N High St. While Arch City’s burgers are incredible, the parmesan truffle fries are giving them a run for their money. These fries are fresh cut, meaning they have a crispy exterior with a soft interior, making them perfect for dunking and scooping up sauces. The fries are also topped with truffle oil and parmesan cheese, giving them a savory and salty flavor. Just make sure you get an extra order of the garlic aioli because it is highly addictive.
Mussels & Fries | Grandview Cafe • 1455 W Third Ave. If you are a fan of fish and chips, you’ll love Grandview Cafe’s take on it. Instead of fish with steak fries, you’ll be chowing down on steamed PEI mussels with shoestring fries. But don’t think that’s all you’re getting in this dish. The mussels and fries get a boost in flavor from additional ingredients like ground chorizo, garlic, blistered tomatoes, white wine, and butter. 54
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Pop Fries Xi Xia Western Chinese Cuisine 1140 Kenny Centre Mall When one thinks of places serving up delicious fried potatoes, Western Chinese food doesn’t typically come to mind. But at Xi Xia Western Chinese Cuisine, you can find amazing fries with an Asian twist. These pop fries come topped with kimchi and are served with house sweet and sour sauce. Is it a bit of a carb-overload to get both the house-made noodles and the fries? Perhaps, but it’s well worth it. Cheese Fries Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog Palace 248 S High St. And while all the spots on this list are taking fries on a new path, Dirty Frank’s keeps it classic with their cheese fries. Sure, the dish is simple: freshly fried fries completely covered in cheese sauce. But that’s what makes it so great. There’s no extra frills here, just well-cooked and wellseasoned fries and enough cheese sauce to drown in. Best of all? These fries are only $2.75.
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BY M I KE T HO MAS PHOTOS BY R EB ECC A T I EN
Columbus-style pizza is a cut above
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n 2011, celebrity chef David Chang and food critic Peter Meehan (the personalities behind the Netflix series Ugly Delicious and season one of PBS's Mind of a Chef) launched Lucky Peach magazine. By 2017, the New York Times best-selling culinary mag had called it quits, but not before changing the landscape of food-related publishing through countless thoughtful, in-depth features and groundbreaking artistic vision. Before closing up shop, Lucky Peach published a series of features covering the unique regional pizza styles found throughout the US. Much to the surprise of some skeptical (and probably hangry) readers, right there in print along with Chicago's infamous deep dish and clam-covered New Haven apizza were the words "Columbus-style pizza." Believe it or not, Columbus-style pizza really is a thing—and not just because the staff at Lucky Peach said so. A thin, crisp crust. Edge-to-edge toppings. Slices cut into small, poppable squares rather than triangles. Aside from a handful of notable exceptions, these are the hallmarks of pizza served by the capital city’s most essential local brands. But these characteristics alone do not make Columbus-style pizza the unique and wonderful phenomenon it is. Rather, it’s the history and tradition of the city’s iconic pizzerias that is at the heart of Columbus-style. Columbus-style pizza as we know it can be traced back to 1949, when brothers Jim and Dan Massucci, along with their associate Romeo Siri, began serving pizzas in their Grandview restaurant. Soon, demand for the Massucci’s hearth-baked pies was so great that they opened the area’s very first pizza shop on Main St. in Whitehall. In an Americanization of their Italian surname, the brothers named their shop Massey’s.
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After changing hands a couple of times, Massey’s Pizza is today owned by a different set of brothers in Dave and Jim Pallone. While ownership of the popular local chain has changed, the Pallones maintain the same dedication to quality that first made Massey’s pizza a hit over 70 years ago. Massey’s now operates 14 locations throughout Central Ohio—and one in South Carolina. “We’re just like a mom and pop pizza operation,” Dave Pallone said of his business. “We do it the old-fashioned way, and we don’t shortcut things.” Part of doing things the old-fashioned way comes down to using traditional ingredients, like a proprietary blend of imported Galbani brand cheese (Italy’s No. 1 brand), or old-world Portofino pepperoni. Then there’s the way the pizza is baked—with the raw pies placed directly on the hearth of a 500 degree oven. Then, of course, there’s the cut. “Years ago, all pizza was cut like a pie. We invented this cut, ‘the Massey’s cut.’ Now everybody uses that. I think some people call it tavern cut, or party cut—but it’s actually the Massey’s cut,” Pallone said. While Massey’s can be thought of as the godfather of Columbusstyle, it’s just one of several shops with a decades-long history of serving the city’s signature pizza. By the middle of the 20th century, other iconic family-owned brands had emerged throughout Central Ohio. In 1952, Thomas Iacono opened his first pizza shop in Columbus using recipes from his family’s native Italy. Featuring a thin, cracker-like crust, fresh ingredients, and the same square cut as Massey’s, Iacono’s brand would eventually branch into two of the city’s most celebrated local pizza chains: Tommy’s and Iocano’s Pizza—each of which continues the legacy of
,, I think some people call it tavern cut, or party cut—but it’s actually The Massey’s Cut.
,, RICHARD FOLK (LEFT), MASSEY'S CMO, AND DAVE PALLONE, CO-OWNER OF MASSEY'S.
its founder with multiple locations throughout Central Ohio. Like Iacono and the Massucci brothers before, Emelio’s Restaurant founders Mike and Binnie DiSabato made an early impact on the Columbus pizza scene. Opening in 1960, Emelio’s quickly became a neighborhood destination thanks to dishes like a signature salad, served to-go in styrofoam cups, with optional cooked pepperoni. But it’s Emelio’s pizza that has kept local diners hooked for decades. “We’re really happy that we can still serve Columbus after all these years,” said Maria DiSabato, the granddaughter of Emelio’s founders and a third-generation employee of the restaurant. “Moving from one generation to the next isn’t always easy, but it’s definitely the clientele that has been so loyal to us that has made Emelio’s as great as it is.” While gobs of cup-and-char pepperoni and the iconic square cut are essential to the Columbus style, you can honestly find similar pizzas throughout the country. More than the superficial elements they share, much of what defines Columbus-style pizza is in the relationships formed over this signature dish. Crafted with care by families in this city and enjoyed across generations, it’s the special people who make Columbusstyle pizza something you won’t find anywhere else. •
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he late Anthony Bourdain once said Columbus is a place full of Applebee's and fast food chains. You may have noticed recently, that's no longer the case. While those spots still hold a prominent place in the city, restaurateurs are taking the Midwestern cuisine in a different direction. This includes dishes that are inspired from across the globe as well as thoughtful takes on comfort classics. The days of two for $20 deals from the super corporate overlords are on their last legs, and it’s in large part due to folks wanting more out of their food and chefs hearing this call. In this issue of Stock & Barrel, we wanted to highlight kitchens that are creatively taking risks with their menus. These spots aren’t following the beaten path of pizzas and burgers, they are creating new paths for chefs and restaurants in the future. One is a purely vegetarian and vegan restaurant with elevated options; another promotes community and conversation through its weekly dining traditions. And it’s these endeavours that are breaking the mold and reshaping the way diners go about eating in the city. Follow along as we take a deep dive into the kitchens and people behind the concepts of Bonafacio, Veritas, Comune, Watershed, and Service Bar. •
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•B OODLE NIGHTS AT BONIFACIO EVERY SUNDAY & THURSDAY
Bonifacio offers guests a hands-on dining experience serving Filipino Kamayan BY JA EL A N I T UR N ER -W IL L I A MS P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SE R
Remember when your mother told you not to eat with your hands? During Kamayan, a traditional dinner held on the last Monday of every month at modern Filipino restaurant Bonifacio, you can disregard that rule. The word kamayan literally means “with hands” in Filipino, and guests are invited to dig in. Before the grand opening of Bonifacio, the restaurant held its first Kamayan for the staff’s close relatives and friends, curating a dining experience filled with food and the spirit of community. •
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A COOK AT BONIFACIO • SEASONS A BOWL OF TOFU PANCIT.
“Kamayan has always held a special place in my heart. Before I could hold a spoon and fork, my mom fed me by hand. Even after I could hold a spoon and fork, this was still my preferred way to eat fish and rice,” said Bonifacio owner, Krizzia Yanga. She admits that some foods taste better when forgoing utensils. “I like to think of the Kamayan table as an altar to community.” Attending each Kamayan with her mother, Yanga ensures that each dinner lives up to its word-of-mouth expectations. She shares stories about her visits to the Philippines, gives guests practical tips on how they can eat with their hands, and curates an easing playlist. Bonifacio also hosts Boodle Nights (a play on “boodle fights”, a Filipino military-style of eating) every Thursday and Sunday night as another communal event, one that’s built connections across the table. “At our very first Boodle Night, before it was a weekly staple, a family walked in, shared a table with strangers, and left saying, ‘I think we just met the people we would trust with our kids if anything ever happens to us,’” Yanga said. “While this was the most unique expression of it, over and over, we have seen people come to the table as strangers, and leave as friends.” While both are regularly held at Bonifacio, there are still noteworthy differences between Boodle Nights and Kamayan. A ticketed event, the menu for Kamayan is usually pre-set and thematic, (past events have been gluten-free, seafood, and regional cuisine) to engage the staff with guests. On the flipside, Boodle Nights are suited for guests who are interested in Kamayan, but need more flexibility in attending. Boodle Nights also have dedicated servers, rather than being communal. With an a la carte menu, Boodle Nights have a customizable spread, giving way to a more casual dining experience that is friendly to those with dietary restrictions. Kamayan attendees can expect to feast on Inihaw na Liempo, a grilled marinated pork belly dish, and Inasal na Manok, grilled chicken marinated in annatto, lemongrass, garlic, and lemon. Debuted at a regional cuisine Kamayan, Yanga credits Pyanggang Manok—a chicken dish braised in tumeric, lemongrass, onion and more specialty seasonings—as a dinner standout. “My mom comes from a small island in the southern Philippines, much closer geographically and culturally to Malaysia than Manila. Because of this, the food in that region is much different than mainstream Filipino food and is a rare find even in the Philippines. After [adding Pyanggang Manok] to our regular menu, it quickly became one of our most popular dishes,” Yanga said. An unexpected part of Kamayan may be the focus of connection, but it’s also a welcome change from ordinary dining experiences. For those hesitant to eat with their hands, the tradition may encourage guests to put down their phones and relax in the Kamayan atmosphere. Once guests begin to eat, there’s a commitment to finishing the courses and being attentive to others. Yanga is also interested in and changing thoughts on societal norms, especially conversations involving Filipino cuisine. • 64
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“
I hope that, if nothing else, Bonifacio shows folks that there are people behind the cuisine with incredible stories to tell.
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• BONAFACIO'S OOOH BAE COCKTAIL.
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• BONIFACIO'S TOFU PANCIT
“Columbus is a diverse city, but if you’re not careful, you can live your entire life here without meeting anyone different from you. From food trucks and mom-and-pop shops to fine dining, the influence of Columbus immigrants can be felt everywhere, in subtle and obvious ways. But you might have to step out of your comfort zone to get to know your neighbors and try their food,” Yanga says. “There are plenty of big names in Columbus who are genuinely pushing for international cuisine. The folks behind North Market are a prime example of people using their influence to highlight international cuisine and immigrant communities. And of course, we are excited for the opportunity to represent Filipino cuisine at Budd Dairy Food Hall.” Rather than being misrepresented, Yanga finds that Filipino food can often be underrepresented, creating a barrier in which Americans can have a misconception of Filipino cuisine as being monolithic. While Filipino visibility in mainstream culture deserves an increase in representation, American palates can be shifted when informed about Filipino food, art and experiences. Kamayan is just a start, but it’s a promising one. “I hope that, if nothing else, Bonifacio shows folks that there are people behind the cuisine with incredible stories to tell. It can be easy to get caught up in the hype when a new cuisine has become mainstream, but there are people who have been eating and making this food for generations and food is just one part of their story,” Yanga said. “Find experiences and spaces that are inclusive, but not explicitly created for you, and learn to be a guest at someone else’s house. Walk into those experiences with curiosity and humility, with an open heart and mind.” •
Bonifacio is located at 1577 King Ave. 614NOW.COM
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• P ANTRY LOVE (BOTTOM RIGHT), GINGER-SCALLION BROCCOLINI (TOP RIGHT), AND HOT + SOUR LION'S MANE (TOP LEFT)
Comune is creating vegetarian & vegan plates that would entice all eaters BY M I TC H HOOP ER P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SER
If vegetarian and vegan eating was ever thought of as just a fad, it seems Columbus is putting those sentiments to rest. While most restaurants have opened up the menu for more plant-based options, the city has also welcomed in places that are strictly vegetarian and vegan. These new spots have found ways to serve delicious vegan food that is both familiar and approachable to our Midwest palates. Not only does this satisfy cravings of vegetarians and vegans with meat alternatives, it’s an easy entrypoint for meat eaters who are suspicious of plant-based food. • 614NOW.COM
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• TAMARIND EGGPLANT
However, some places are leaving the meat alternatives behind in favor of dishes that make vegetables the star. And this rings true for Comune, a purely vegetarian and vegan restaurant. You won’t find an Impossible Burger on the menu here, and there’s not a kids menu with chicken fingers and French fries. Instead, it’s dishes that put the same time and care into a head of broccoli as a steakhouse would into a wagyu ribeye steak. The results are a seasonal menu full of options like the ginger-scallion broccolini with cured egg yolk, herbs, and olive oil; or the crispy rice, which has remained on the menu with seasonal updates thanks to popular demand. Comune’s story begins just before their opening on Parsons Avenue roughly a year ago. Joe Galati, co-owner of Comune, explained that the original idea was to create a vegetarian Vietnamese sandwich shop. It was once they found the space that he and his team began to ask what could this be, and what should this be? “It’s a cliche thing, but we wanted to create a restaurant that we 70
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wanted to go to,” Galati recalled. “How do you make a vegetarian restaurant that doesn’t feel like a vegetarian restaurant? There’s all these preconceived notions of what the food's going to be, what the space feels like, [and that] it’s not super granola, or some super hippy joint.” Galati and his team put their heads together and looked back on their travel experiences across the world. The question they asked eventually became the basis for how Comune was built: How do we take what we felt at those places and bring them here? Now with a full year under its belt, it seems those experiences and ideas have lent themselves to an out-of-Columbus experience when dining at Comune. Most restaurants in the city will have televisions on the walls and behind the bar; Comune has none. The dining setup also encourages chatting with your neighbors and community as tables are quaint and close by. The menu is minimal so as to stimulate you to ask your server questions about dishes and their unique ingredients. And the location is in an
•G INGER-SCALLION BROCCOLINI
unsuspecting spot; as more places flood to hot spots like the Short North and Dublin, Comune is planting roots on Parsons Ave., in an area still establishing itself. And for now, it seems the Parsons location is where Galati will be putting his full energy. The idea of scaling is real, but Galati said he really wants to focus on perfecting the craft at Comune and its original location before expanding beyond. It’s not due to a lack of success, but rather a recognition of what’s made Comune successful so far, and thoughtful caution about expanding too quickly. Restaurant empires like Cameron Mitchell who have been in the game for years now essentially have a playbook for how to go about a restaurant opening. With only one year as a barometer, Comune just doesn’t have that playbook fully finished yet. • 614NOW.COM
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“A lot of this comes from we are new to this world; it’s a really big risk,” Galati said. “We don’t have investors. I have like everything I own tied up into this restaurant, so the idea of scaling is like, ‘Oh no, we’re cool! We’ll wait.’ ” What goes on in the Parsons Ave. kitchen is just shy of alchemy turning metal into gold thanks to what Chef Jacob Inscore is up to. The aforementioned crispy rice has become somewhat of a menu staple with seasonal revamps, as it has gone through more Asian-inspired variations in the summer with the dish topped with a soft boiled egg, or the current Middle Eastern-inspired crispy rice served with saffron, scallions, dates, and zhug. Another staple is the bread and spread; a large piece of housemade herb focaccia with various seasonal dips and sauces. As vegetables like eggplant become more seasonally available, Comune has found ways to incorporate them in elevated options like the tamarind eggplant in a chilicilantro glaze with puffed rice and garlic chives. The quality of food here is also in part to how Galati and Comune source their ingredients. While they only have a select few cheeses in the kitchen, they source the dairy product from Laurel Valley Creamery, a local and family-owned farm that
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It’s dishes that put the same time and care into a head of broccoli as a steakhouse would into a wagyu ribeye steak.
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•J OE GALATI OF COMUNE
• FRENCH COBBLER
specializes in naturally-aged raw milk cheeses. The wine selection is also natural to better accommodate vegans, as some red wines use gelatin which may derive from animal bones. When you really boil it down, Comune might be one of the most eco-friendly restaurants in Columbus. That being said, Galati and his team aren’t just settling for being good. He explained that they have constant meetings to see how they can find ways to improve; whether that be how the wait staff interacts with diners, or how to subtly tweak a dish to truly highlight its flavors. This process also includes taking feedback from people who visit the restaurant, which can become a balancing act of protecting your culinary vision and making sure eaters come back. “You can push against Columbus, but Columbus will push back,” Galati explained. “At the end of the day, it is a business and it needs to be able to feed itself… It’s like how do we keep evolving in a way that feels meaningful to us and also helps support the staff and the team we have?” The reception, in large part, has been well received by the community. “The fact that we can be considered in that top ten [of Columbus restaurants] is amazing, especially for a vegetarian restaurant,” Galati said. “The fact that we can hit those marks that more established restaurants can do is a sign that we have something here.” •
Comune is located on 677 Parsons Ave. For hours and more information, visit comune-restaurant.com. 614NOW.COM
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• R ED SNAPPER (TOP RIGHT), GNOCCHI (MID-LEFT), OYSTER AND PEARL (MIDRIGHT), SUNDAY CASSEROLE SALAD (BOTTOM LEFT), STEAKHOUSE PLATE (BOTTOM RIGHT)
Eating is a chefcurated adventure at Veritas BY L I N DA L EE BA I R D P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SER
The chef’s tasting menu is the definition of an eating adventure. You make a pact with the kitchen: they will bring you the very best dishes they have to offer, made from the fresh and sometimes unusual ingredients, combined in creative ways; and you will sample them, no matter what. Your goal is not to get full—though you will—but to experience dishes in a way you haven’t before. Along the way, you will discover how different—and delicious—food can taste than what you’re used to when prepared by expert hands. It’s the journey, not the destination. • 614NOW.COM
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It’s also very different than the way most of us are used to approaching a meal. Josh Dalton, Executive Chef at Veritas, bet his business on the tasting menu model when the restaurant announced in 2018 that the chef’s tasting menu would be the sole way to order. “I’d say your average meal is between 20-25 bites,” he said. His intention was for those bites to come out in seven or eight creative courses that would surprise and delight diners. It didn’t work out quite the way he hoped. After following that model for a year, Dalton re-introduced a la carte options. “Columbus, they need to have a say, they need to have choices,” he said. However, he’s not entirely satisfied with the hybrid approach. “The tasting menu is meant to be the things that really inspire us and the newest techniques,” he said. “It allows us to drive creativity and focus when you’re only worried about these eight dishes. It really lets you perfect them and get into details.” The courses generally follow the expected flow of a meal, from appetizers to main meat and seafood dishes, finished with dessert; there are simply more of them. (Dalton's team works to accommodate all special dietary requests with 48 hours notice). Dalton’s style is to experiment, perfect, and move on. The tasting menu gives him the freedom to mix it up as ingredients change seasonally, and as he’s inspired by new dishes he samples while traveling. Further, it helps him maintain an interest and focus on his dishes. What this means for diners is that if you love something you try on the tasting menu, odds are that it won’t be offered next time you visit Veritas. Counterpoint: there will be something wonderful and surprising in its place. But changing the mindset for why you go to a restaurant—to have an adventure, as opposed to having exactly what you want, and ceding control over your meal—that’s something Dalton is still coaxing Columbus diners to embrace. For all the reasons the tasting menu approach wasn’t as successful as Dalton had hoped, there are several advantages for diners that he hopes will nudge folks to take the plunge in the future. First, Dalton is confident that in the right hands, diners will discover they like foods that they think they don’t. “I’m a firm believer that if you don’t like asparagus, it’s not that you don’t like asparagus, you just haven’t had it the way you like it,” he said. “There may be a different preparation where you really love it that way.” Second, it eliminates “palate fatigue.” In other words, every bite will be interesting. “Anybody that’s ever had a big, 28 oz. steak, the first 5 bites are amazing. I can promise you, [...] that last bite is nowhere near as good as those first five,” Dalton said. “As soon as your palate is starting to get used to something, we’re trying to force it to change into a different direction.” •
STEAKHOUSE PLATE •
“It allows us to drive creativity and focus when you’re only worried about these eight dishes. It really lets you perfect them and get into details.”
• RED SNAPPER • S UNDAY CASSEROLE SALAD
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And finally, it lets you escape from the monotony of mealtime. For the duration of your dinner, the only decision you have to make is what you’re drinking (and with wine pairing options, Dalton’s team would be happy to help you with that, too). The time you normally spend at a restaurant worrying over what to order instead of talking with your dinner companions? It’s yours to chat about whatever else is on your mind. And with seven to eight courses, you’re guaranteed to have at least one thing on your plate that you’ve never tried before, along with a few more familiar dishes prepared in unexpected ways. The chef, meanwhile, is using this meal to show off their skills and interests, meaning that bland and predictable food is the only thing that’s strictly off-limits. Dalton has a reputation for using gastronomy in his cooking—bringing in tools to trick your eyes and toy with your tastebuds. But as he’s matured as a chef, he’s also refined those tools to focus solely on the food. “Right now I like things to look simple, and then when you taste it you’re like, ‘oh shit, I didn’t see that coming.’” Dalton has never been what you would call a rule-follower in the kitchen. “I never went to culinary school. I started cooking around Columbus and I got fired from pretty much everywhere that you can get fired from,” he said. He admits that he had strong ideas about how a kitchen should run that often didn’t align with the chef’s vision. “I just didn’t like people telling me what to do, and I figured if I owned, they couldn’t tell me what to do.” Time has changed his perspective a bit. For one thing, as an owner, a lot of people tell him what to do, from the electric company to the IRS. “I have more bosses today than I’ve ever had.” Despite the daily pressures, there’s some freedom that comes with owning a restaurant that Dalton takes full advantage of. Twice each year, he closes his restaurants to allow staff time to travel. In addition to recharging, Dalton says they use the time to eat and gather influences from other places, which will show up on the Veritas menu when they return. The tasting menu format allows them the flexibility to quickly incorporate new ideas and bring the creativity Dalton craves into the kitchen. His next trip will be to Paris, London and Italy, and he anticipates the menu will reflect European-style cuisine once he returns. But if you don’t want to go that far afield to have an adventure, an evening at Veritas will let you try new foods and bring stories back to your friends, all without leaving Columbus. If you’ve never given a tasting menu a try, you couldn’t be in better hands than Dalton’s. Veritas is an adventure worth having. •
Veritas is located at 11 W Gay St. To see Veritas’ current menu or for hours and operations, visit veritasrestaurant.com. 614NOW.COM
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Service Bar + Watershed Kitchen & Bar 80
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• WATERSHED KITCHEN & BAR'S HAY-SMOKED BABY BACKS
Creative cocktails and cuisine collide at Service Bar and Watershed BY MELINDA G R EEN P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SER
Y
ou can’t talk about cutting-edge, creative dining experiences in Columbus without paying homage to the OGs of local innovation, Middle West Spirits and Watershed Distillery. These two distilleries, through their dining and beverage programs, have set the standards that other kitchens and chefs aspire to, with attention to detail and creative flair that are hard to match. Watershed took immediate advantage of the 2017 state legislation that allows distilleries to serve liquor, opening not only a world-class bar but also a world-class kitchen, both focused on the “watershed” concept of a community gathering place. Owner Greg Lehman strives to push customers just outside their comfort zone, so they leave learning something, but not scratching their heads in confusion. Lehman credits the kitchen’s success partly to his own prior lack of experience in the restaurant industry. He was able to bring in a standout chef de cuisine, Jack Moore, and just “let him do his thing.” “We had no idea what was on the menu until just before opening day,” Lehman laughs. “[Moore] can be as creative as he wants to be.” “We’re proud to put our thumbprint on the city’s dining scene,” Moore said. “The challenge is staying focused and standing our ground." •
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SERVICE BAR'S SURF N • TURF GNOCCHI
"Columbus has a huge corporate testing ground and quick-dining scene that are widely supported," Moore continued. "We have to do a lot to stay in the forefront of the customers’ minds.” Watershed prints its dining menus daily, responding to new ideas and ingredients. Their brussels sprouts have become a staple and the stuff of local legend, though. “Years ago, brussels sprouts weren’t a common thing — and now, if we took them off the menu, I think there would be an uproar,” Moore said. Never content to offer the usual six or seven seasonal cocktails, the bar offers nearly two dozen, every one of which has at least one unique twist. They take risks on ingredients like chamomile-and-rose-infused gin, pistachio liqueur, and matcha that, individually, may not sound all that tempting, but combined, create a sublimely delicious experience. The cocktail menu booklets themselves are somewhat of collectors’ items, cleverly themed and illustrated each season. This winter’s theme is, to sum it up, cocktails “for the weather you have and the weather you want.” Despite being a distillery, Watershed also has stepped to the forefront of the zero-proof movement in the past couple of years, crafting nonalcoholic drinks that are every bit as creative and inspired as its spirits. Middle West Spirits also opened its kitchen, Service Bar, in 2017. “The word ‘service,’ it refers to doing everything,” Executive Chef Avishar Barua said. “And the only way we could do that was to break the wall between front of house and back of house.” Service Bar’s approach to food runs the gamut, from elevated fast food to distinctive variations on Bangladeshi family recipes to outright creative risks. The Cheesy Brisket Crunch, a Taco-Bell-gordita-gone-gourmet with near-impossibly tender brisket, has become somewhat of a local staple among foodies. And if you’re vegetarian or gluten-free, Service Bar has creative, inspired menu options that won’t make you feel like you’re relegated to the kids’ table, or sitting in your grandmother’s kitchen with boiling water and pats of butter. But, I mean, what do you expect from a kitchen that takes three days to prep its French fries and has a secret weekly menu available only for Instagram followers? As for their cocktail menu, “The classics have been done everywhere already,” Beverage Director Kyle Nelson said. “I don’t go too much out of left field; I like to keep our menu accessible, with creative ingredients or garnishes. Having a distillery behind us is a big help, and using our own spirits gives us flavor profiles that you can’t get with national brands.” The feeling of Midwest hospitality, even among the team, is critical to Service Bar’s success. “In New York, in a lot of places, I would spend $500 or $600 on a meal and leave feeling like I was there to impress them,” Barua recalled. “We want to give people a memory, a great experience.” “One of the harder things that no one thinks much about is, we try to treat our own staff very well,” he continues. “If things are going on in their lives, if they need time for something, we let them handle it and we figure it out. Empowering them to make decisions impacts the customer experience. And if we invest in our people, when they move on, it increases that mindset across the industry.” Although these two brands may not view themselves as leaders, and continually strive to balance creativity and accessibility, there’s no doubt that they are standard bearers in the local dining scene, lighting the way for richer, more personalized dining experiences in Central Ohio. •
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We're proud to put our thumbprint on the city's dining scene. The challenge is staying focused and standing our ground.
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Service Bar is located at 1230 Courtland Ave. Watershed is located at 1145 Chesapeake Ave. 614NOW.COM
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E N A’ S ENVIABLE ANNIVERSARY Caribbean Home Cooking Celebrates 20 Years on Cleveland Avenue
BY J. R . M C M I L L A N P H OTOS BY BR I A N KA I SER
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o one really opens a restaurant expecting it to become a neighborhood landmark. But the right restaurant, one that brings people together and bridges the generational divide that dooms too many family businesses, is exceedingly rare. Vinell “Ena” Hayles didn’t even set out to open a restaurant. But her Sunday suppers became such a local legend, the suggestion she should share her recipes and expertise with her Linden neighbors eventually became inevitable. Born in Jamaica, Hayles opened her venerated eatery, Ena's Carribean Kitchen, in December of 1999, a milestone enviable in a city that sees plenty of restaurants fade away as initial intrigue evaporates and diners drift elsewhere. Though her stretch of Cleveland Avenue had no shortage of shuttered storefronts, Hayles didn’t anticipate becoming an anchor in a neighborhood hungry for one. “My house was already a restaurant. Everyone knew dinner time was 5 o’clock, and my kids had to be home for family dinner. So they brought their friends,” Hayles recalled. “They all knew they had to behave and show respect. Those are still the rules in my restaurant.” In her flour-covered apron and signature fedora, Hayles doesn’t look the part of a matriarch. But as soon as she walks into the kitchen, everyone still kind of stands at attention, even her husband Lloyd. Her commanding presence alone all but demands it, despite her diminutive stature. Aside from the obvious commercial amenities, it’s not really that different from the home kitchen where the idea started two decades ago. “I knew people wanted real Jamaican cuisine. If you come to my house, you’ll get ackee and saltfish for breakfast. Dinner will be curry goat • 614NOW.COM
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and oxtail, maybe a little jerk chicken. So that was our main focus,” Hayles explained. “Lamb and the curry goat are the most popular. People order our oxtail and taste the difference because we use real honey, real garlic, real hot pepper, and real thyme in our seasoning.” A variety of fish are also among the more original offerings with perch, red snapper, whiting, and tilapia, all served with traditional rich brown stew or vinegary escoveitch—or as a sandwich, if you’d prefer. Comfort food sides from rice and beans to collard greens highlight flavors from the Caribbean to the Carolinas. Authentic and uncompromising, the menu is actually deeper than it appears, with well-executed standards and less-likely Sunday brunch specials that reflect the diverse neighborhood dynamic. Chicken and shrimp gumbo, crawfish and crab gravy and biscuits, and tiger shrimp and smoked Gouda grits blend Hayles’ own upbringing with the low country favorites of the Deep South and the African origins of her fellow immigrant community. Catering was an early extension of the business, with take-out tickets already rivaling dine-in guests. She also serves more cornbread on the average day than some restaurants serve customers. “People used to ask if we were open on Sunday, and I’d say no. But my son Marlon said, ‘Well, you take Sunday off and I’ll do it.’ I’m not in the kitchen at all,” she chuckled. “I’ll come from church and pick up dinner, but Sunday is his day and his menu. It was his idea, but he still had to go through me. I had to taste everything first before we started Sunday brunch.” It’s nearly impossible to achieve made-from-scratch results in even the most well-appointed restaurant kitchen. The missing ingredient is always time. That’s why you’ll find Ena’s preparing for lunch as early as 4 a.m. during the week, and starting to prep for Sunday on Saturday night before returning nearly as early the following morning. • 86
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“My circle of influence is my circle of friends who are Caribbean, African, and Creole. The brunch menu reflects all of that. On Sundays, my whole family works in the kitchen: my kids, my sister, my nieces and nephews,” explained Marlon Hayles. “There’s a connection to the food and the culture; they’re proud in a way that only comes from having your name in the game. I don’t look at this as work. I’m just making dinner with my family.” Marlon is one of five children who have all put in time at the restaurant over the years, and still do, between academic and occupational pursuits elsewhere. Evenings and weekends bring everyone together in the kitchen just like any family, except their kitchen is the restaurant. “We keep getting asked to open another Ena’s, but how can you recreate something like this and have the same consistency and quality? That’s where the food trucks came from,” he said. “We were trying to figure out the best way to get out there without losing that sense of ourselves. We have one here and one in Cincinnati. It’s still family and was easier than opening up another brick-and-mortar. Everyone can still get their Ena’s fix.” 88
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Every restaurant has its secrets, and fortunately for the future, Ena’s are safe. Recipes still mostly made with a lifetime of experience and a dash of intuition were diligently written down, an heirloom more families should pursue lest their own legacy of recipes becomes lost forever. And fortunately for all of us, Hayles has no plans to retire any time soon. She now sees the same neighborhood kids who used to tag along for Sunday dinner fully grown, stopping by to share memories and recipes with kids of their own. But she is still no nonsense, and isn’t going anywhere. “It’s just like it was at my house back then. If you don’t behave, you have to leave,” she laughed. “The neighborhood has changed, but everyone still knows us here. They respect what we do. This is where I started, and this is where we want to stay.” •
Ena’s Caribbean Kitchen is at 2444 Cleveland Avenue. Visit them online at enascaribbeankitchen.com 614NOW.COM
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Keeping it Simple Simple Times Mixers Make Convenient and Quality DIY Cocktails BY OL I V I A M I LT N ER P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SE R
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wo years ago on a chilly October day around Halloween, Mark Tinus launched Simple Times Mixers. He had a good feeling about this venture; for those who like to enjoy a cocktail every now and then, who wouldn’t want an easy alternative to the sickeningly sweet mixes designed to hide the taste of bottom-shelf liquor? •
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“What we always say is our drinker, or the person that would turn to us, has already made the decision that they're going to drink a slightly better alcohol, if you're not already at least at medium quality,” he said. “You've at least graduated to a glass bottle, let's put it that way.” Now, Simple Times Mixers has carved out a space for itself in the vibrant local spirits and craft cocktail scene in Columbus. Its mixes can be found at a slew of local bars and restaurants, and its products are available at various grocery stores and online. In a world where everyone seems to be focused on the alcohol, Simple Times has reimagined the rest of the cocktail equation, and they’re just getting started. Tinus began working on the spirit side of the cocktail business, launching a saki-based spirit called Karate Cowboy that he ended up making in-house with Middle West Spirits once they came to town. He says they were constantly in need of excellent mixers, particularly when they were serving large events and needed to create, say, 10 kegs worth of a mule. “We were juicing everything ourselves and we were like, ‘this is a real pain in the ass.’” On top of that, Tinus said selling spirits felt like giving people homework assignments, asking them to go find a collection of additional ingredients so they could use their liquor to make a drink. Flip it around, and selling a mixer is much easier; the customer only needs to dump in the liquor, and they’re good to go. Tinus started asking his friends who worked with craft cocktails and local spirits if he could develop high-quality, easy to use mixers for them, and after that he fully committed to switching to that side of the business. “The brand and products all evolved from working in this industry and viewing the non-alcohol side as important as the spirits side, and everybody could make these quality cocktails at home,” Tinus said. Along with recognizing a need for mixers that didn’t compromise quality for convenience, Tinus realized Columbus also happened to be a great place to start a mixers company. It has a burgeoning craft cocktail market, and across the spectrum, the city is known for its spirit of collaboration. Plus, he said, unlike those other “cool” cities that have already made a name for themselves in the mixers world – Austin, Portland, L.A., Brooklyn, San Francisco – Columbus is also geographically close to a wide range of produce that Tinus says has been instrumental in crafting his mixes. “We wanted to build a brand not just because we're from Columbus, but you know, truly because we're from Columbus, meaning there's something that they wouldn't have,” he said. “We have a really cool agricultural scene here in Ohio that to make a mixer company using super good ingredients makes a ton of sense to be from here.” So maybe it makes sense that the first Simple Times Mixer was sold at a farmers market in Granville, and perhaps it’s no surprise that farmers markets have become a primary location for not just sales, but also consumer research and product development. There, he can see which of his mixes are fan favorites, versus others that might be less appealing to a wider audience. He’s also literally surrounded by local farmers, with whom he can network to understand what’s in season and identify possible ingredients to incorporate into • 92
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In a world where everyone seems to be focused on the alcohol, Simple Times has reimagined the rest of the cocktail equation, and they’re just getting started.
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his mixes. Blood orange, for example, is surprisingly in season from about January through March, though Tinus says he tends to get requests for that ingredient during the summer. Simple Times is now using various combinations of 28 ingredients to create their drinks, from a blueberry basil lemonade to a cranberry cold-brewed tea to a chai apple mule. Their staple, however, and a drink that holds a sentimental place in Tinus’ heart, is the pineapple mule. The summer before he sold his first mixer two years ago, he sold the mule at a beer fest, and it was a smashing success. “We were like, ‘Dang, this thing is awesome. We just need to make this,’” he said. “I still remember that day like it was yesterday. So to me, almost the rationale to starting the company was on that flavor, so it's always going to be a really soft spot in my heart.” Developing mixers is a science for Tinus that has three key parts: ethanol content, sweetness and pH. Building a good mix means finding the perfect balance between those, but he gives himself an added challenge. Unlike with food, people tend to strongly prefer certain spirits over others, with one person who describes themself as a bourbon drinker, while 94
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We were like, ‘Dang, this thing is awesome. We just need to make this.’
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another may be into tequila. That means, to create a business with wide enough appeal, Tinus develops each Simple Times Mixer to fit with a few different kinds of liquor. And, all of the mixers are meant to pair with liquor at a 3 to 1 ratio. “We know we're going to balance the pH, balance the sweetness and balance the alcohol every single time. It's about repeatability for us and simplicity for the user,” Tinus said. “That's the difference between our company and juice companies, which should be making stuff that tastes really good on its own, that balances the pH and the sweetness. We actually make an out of balance juice because we make the pH too low and the sweetness slightly too high.” Simple Times moved into a new production facility this year, and Tinus says his next goal is to expand the company’s presence in other Ohio cities, namely Cincinnati, Cleveland and Dayton, and continue to grow from there. But until then, he’ll keep drinking his pineapple mule with bourbon, while his wife drinks it with vodka, and his friends drink it with tequila or rum. Check it out with the poison of your choice. Cheers! • Learn more and order at simpletimesmixers.com. 614NOW.COM
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FOOD WIRE NOW OPEN •Bottoms up, Westerville! As of mid-November, Galena Brewing is the newest brewery to open up in the area. Originally, Galena was located in Johnstown, but with a need for more room, they made the move to Westerville at 5901 Chandler Court, Unit B. Instead of just a two barrel brewing system, the new setup allows the space for six systems. The brewery buzz doesn’t stop there either, as Easton welcomes in Chicago-based Forbidden Root Brewery to its turf. Forbidden Root is a botanical brewery inspired by elements found in nature. The 12,000-square-foot restaurant and brewery offers favorites like Snoochie Boochies Double IPA and Small Talk NE-Style Pale Ale, plus local brews from Wolf’s Ridge and Gemut Biergarten. The Columbus nightlife and bar scene also got a little bigger as Law Bird opened on 740 S High St. The bar comes from Annie Williams-Pierce, the first ever female award recipient of Bombay Sapphire’s Most Imaginative Bartender, and her husband Luke. With a thoughtful food menu and Instagrammable drinks, this place is sure to be a hit for years to come.
NOW CLOSED •While restaurants continue to open in this city, there’s always a few that close up shop as well. And for this issue, our heart goes out to Monroe’s Italian Villa which closed in the beginning weeks of November. The Facebook page for Monroe’s said there was a chance to reopen, but due to health concerns, their fearless leader JJ is no longer able to work in the kitchen. Thanks for all the years, JJ and Monroe’s! Your efforts didn’t and won’t go unnoticed. Additionally in the world of closings comes Danny’s Deli, but there’s a bit of a caveat to this one. While the brick-and-mortar location on 37 W Broad Street is closing down, all of your favorite options from Danny’s will still be available at Lexi’s on Third off of 100 E Broad St. If you’re worried about the change; don’t be. Lexi’s on Third is another adventure from Danny Georges, who is the mastermind and namesake of Danny’s Deli.
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COMING SOON •Since our last issue covering The North Market, we’ve heard rumblings about what’s coming to the Dublin location, and we finally received confirmation of five new establishments set to move in. Momo Ghar, Dough Mama, Market Bar, Coastal Local Seafood, and The Dublin Farmer’s Daughter make up the five new vendors. It remains to be seen who will be the other 14 vendors to fill the 19 slots. Additionally, Easton will be welcoming in Dragon Donuts in 2020, which aims to open in the latter half of the year. While their specialty is classic cake-style donuts with a slightly crunchy outside and fluffy inside, Dragon Donuts also offers yeast donuts, tons of specialty treats, and coffee.
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