26 a (614) magazine
H E A R T Y H O L I DAY S — R I C H , V I B R A N T, S T U R DY F O O D AND DRINK FOR THE WINTER MONTHS 614NOW.COM
WINTER 2020
Winter 2020 1
CONTENTS 44
HEARTY HOLIDAYS
Winters in Ohio are for those who love the snow, cold, and consumption of copious amounts of rich, warm, and luxurious food and drink. That's why the winter issue of Stock & Barrel is dedicated to all things hearty this holiday season. Grab a cozy fireplace, your bae, and one of these hefty treats and hunker down for the season of love. COVER PHOTO BY LEONARD OCARRIZO
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BEET STILL MY HEART
WALK UP WAFFLES
Love them or hate them, beets are for everybody.
Winston's Coffe and Waffles comes to Clintonville - as a trailer.
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THE STOUT KINGS
WEATHERING THE STORM
A tour of hearty brews for winter hibernation
Cravings Cafe keeps an even keel in spite of COVID-19.
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BUILD A CART Entertain guests with a top shelf bar cart in your own home 614NOW.COM
ONLY FOR A SEASON Get your eat on before these pop-ups are gone for the winter.
From the Editor PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis
STEPHANIE WEST Editor-In-Chief
Hearty pizza by the pie or the slice—and make it gluten-free Since this issue of Stock & Barrel is all about hearty, delicious foods, I had to nominate my fave hearty, winter treat—the pizza. Pizza goes with anything. Any season, any event, any holiday—it’s the go-to, eat anytime, anywhere food that stays in style no matter what—but it’s particularly delightful in the cold, winter months when you lift that steamy box and pull out that rich pizza pie for dinner (or lunch or a snack or reheated for breakfast—yeah, we see you). It’s got that crust (omg), with that tangy, or zesty, or spicy, or sweet, or basic, sauce (a white pizza is particularly delicious), and then—cheese. Dear Lord, all the cheese. Mozzarella, ricotta, feta—take your pick. And then, of course, your pick of toppings. I’m a fan of the simple cheese, a good sausage and pepperoni, or a Hawaiin pizza—sort of. I like sausage and pineapple. But mostly, I’m in desperate need of a gluten-free pizza. Before 2017, it was so easy for me to grab my phone, scroll through my contacts to whichever pizzeria we wanted (yeah, ok, I have them saved in my phone), place the order, and in 30 minutes my daughter and I would happily enjoy pizza that had all the gluten—and I mean ALL of it. Sometimes we’d get the boneless wings, sometimes a breadstick or two—pizza shops notoriously have amazing, gluten-filled side dishes, that add a savory or sweet nip to your slice of pie. But after May of 2017, all that changed. My daughter was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes, an autoimmune disease, and shortly thereafter, Celiacs disease, also an auto-immune disease. The two often run hand-in-hand, as the body’s immune system starts to attack itself in various ways. So, there we were, suddenly unable to enjoy all the delightful, gluten-y, foods we had come to love. Particularly damning for my daughter was the loss of the Oreo cookie, R.I.P. For me—I lost my delicious pizza.
As I started to check around, I found out almost every pizza shop worth its weight has a gluten-free option. Now, granted, it’s super rare to find a pizza shop that has a dedicated oven or space for gluten-free pizza, so you’re warned you may get trace elements of it from the other pizzas, but hey—at least the main dish was using a flour that didn’t, itself, have gluten in it. Good enough. From Dominoes to Donatos and Papa John’s to Dewey’s— the gluten-free pizza trail taste-testing had begun! What fun it was to order pizza for “information gathering” purposes to see what the best pizza was. The verdict— they’re all good. Some crusts hold better than others for delivery, but they’re all delicious. And this winter, I get to keep on trying and re-trying all the gluten-free, hearty pizza options Columbus has to offer. And a lot more. The winter issue of Stock & Barrel is filled, cover to cover, with every hearty food and drink you need to try this season, from “big-as-your-head” fritters to a rich bowl of soup—and yes, a little pizza trail section you should check out. Particularly poignant this holiday season—the hot toddy. Yeah, yeah, the toddy is still a thing, and yes, people still use it “medicinally” to counter the cold and flu, but it’s definitely a thing and there are definitely a few bars in Columbus that offer it. Don’t want to travel out? You can make your own—we’ve got the recipe. But, reader, it doesn’t stop there. Grab a delicious, hearty stout for the holiday or head out for some chicken and waffles. Try a new pop-up restaurant or, if you’d rather stay in, learn how to build and stock your own bar cart. It’s all in this issue, Columbus, and we promise to give you lots of hearty options to keep you warm and cozy this holiday season.
WINTER 2020
EDITOR IN CHIEF Stephanie West ASSISTANT EDITOR Allison Grimes 614NOW DIGITAL EDITOR Sarah Sole 614 CAMPUS EDITOR Caroline Cunningham CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Alex Lefebvre, Leonardo Carrizo, Sarah Pfeifer
CONTRIBUTORS Jaelani Turner-Williams Jack Mclaughlin Melinda Green Zak Kolesar
Lindsey Escaja DESIGN TEAM LEAD Paul Barton SENIOR CREATIVE DESIGNER Justin Remotap GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jaime North DIRECTOR OF VIDEO John Thorne VIDEO EDITOR Maddy Van Buren DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Jayci Haase ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nikki Harris ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Mindy Wilhite
(614) MAGAZINE 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215
It’s time to enjoy some hearty, rich food—get cozy and have a good winter season, Columbus.
Or so I thought. 8
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Lindsay Press
614NOW.COM
Office: (614) 488-4400 Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614now.com www.614columbus.com
STAFF PICKS B y S to c k & B a r re l sta f f
What hearty food or drink do you indulge in?
It's the winter season and that means hearty food and drinks all around Central Ohio tables, whether at home or in a restaurant. So we asked our staff: What hearty food or drink do you indulge during the holiday season?
Press Play
Did you know that (614) launched a new YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? It’s true. We’re expanding our ever-growing content to include video across our web and magazine stories. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, check out the newest videos on our channel:
Heaven help my poor little heart— eggnog. WHY IS IT SO DELICIOUS?!
Chili. A lot of it.
Stephanie West
Paul Barton
Not technically "hearty" but I do heart them: (an entire bag of) Reese's white chocolate trees...
My favorite winter food is my Mom's potato soup she makes, it's so filling and DELICIOUS.
Justin Remotap
Jaime North
I make this incredible vegan french toast casserole that is so hearty and delicious that my rural Northwest Ohio family has NO idea they're being tricked into eating tofu.
During the winter months I like to warm up with an Old Fashioned or red wine! As far as Winter food - all things soups & pasta!
Craving something delicious?
Jayci Haase
Meggin Weimerskirch
Whatever delicious thing you’re craving, Cravings Cafe has a solution. See something delicious in this video about the downtown eatery.
Editor-in-Chief
Lead Designer
Senior Creative Designer
now playing...
Graphic Designer
Marketing Director
Advertising Director
PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING
↑ Butter Oven Mitt, available at Tigertree, is Super insulated and 100% cotton –and 100% a necessary ingredient for holiday baking. 1% of sales of oven mitts at Tigertree are donated to hunger relief programs throughout the world. 10
↑ Cinnamon Vanilla Cashews, from American Nut Company, are their signature flavor. You’re going to love–debatably the best–nut even more when they’re caramelized in sugar, cinnamon, vanilla and a sprinkle of sea salt.
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↑ Middle West Whiskey & Pecans, from Jeni's. The flavor of Middle West Spirits' single-origin, Ohio wheat whiskey explodes with notes of butterscotch, honey, coconut, and vanilla. Blended with grass-grazed milk and salted, toasted pecans.
↑ Handmade Harcover Journal, available at Igloo Letterpress, in a variety of all the colors of the rainbow. These vibrant cloth covered hard cover journals have 200 blank pages, perfect for recipes, shopping lists, and even Nice Lists.
CALENDAR WILDLIGHTS POWERED BY AEP NOW
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LOCATION: The Columbus Zoo & Aquarium Enjoy delicious hot chocolate and other wintry snacks at the annual Wildlights celebration as it continues this year at the Columbus Zoo and Aquarium, powered by AEP. Beginning Nov. 20 through Jan. 3, the Zoo is lit from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Learn more at columbuszoo.org
CONSERVATORY AGLOW
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LOCATION: Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens
JAN
Enjoy a combination of delightful snacks and drinks at the Conservatory Aglow Nov. 14-Jan. at the Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens. Learn more at fpconservatory.org
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VIRTUAL PAINT & SIP LOCATION: Franklin Park Conservatory JAN
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Grab a bevvy and some paint and join this virtual paint and sip class from home. The class instructor is Conservatory Art Educator, Sarah Robison who can teach any level of painter how to do a winter scene inspired by Ohio’s woodlands. Learn more at fpconservatory.org.
THE BACHELOR LIVE ON STAGE LOCATION: Palace Theater FEB
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The most successful reality romance series in the history of television is coming to Columbus. The Bachelor Live On Stage Official Tour fan party will offer previous Bachelor and Bachelorette favorites, as one eligible hometown Bachelor is introduced to local ladies from the audience for a chance at love. Visit bachelorliveonstage.com for your chance to be a part of the journey. Visit capa.com to buy tickets to the show.
ROMANTIC DESSERTS LOCATION: Franklin Park Conservatory FEB
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This virtual cooking class taught by Ronanda Perkins of Katzinger’s Deli will show you how to make a decadent Raspberry Chocolate Torte and tasty Strawberry Cookies. An ingredient list will be sent out to students one week before the class. Students must acquire the ingredients in advance. Learn more at fpconservatory.org 614NOW.COM
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BIG PICTURE Two Truths bar is offering carryout cocktails like this Spiced Cider cocktail. Two Truths bar is located at 1205 N High St, Columbus, OH PHOTO BY LEONARDO CARRIZO
BIG PICTURE
BIG PICTURE
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WHAT 'S YOUR RECIPE? Broccoli Bake NIKKI HARRIS
Senior Account Executive Senior Account Executive Nikki Harris gives us the downlow on her hearty Broccoli Bake casserole for the holidays HEARTY SCALE
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥
"My stepmom has made this recipe for my family for years— parties, holidays, or just regular dinners. It’s the ultimate comfort food—some moms give their kids chicken noodle soup; ours made this bake. It’s hearty, savory and absolutely delicious! We also love it because you can really add anything to it."
INGREDIENTS 2 eggs beaten
2 c white rice (optional)
8 c chopped broccoli
1/2 c butter
4.5-5 c sharp cheddar cheese
1 c milk salt & pepper
INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the oven to 350. Beat the eggs in a mixing bowl and set aside. Melt the butter on low heat. Combine milk with butter and stir for about 2 minutes until the milk is warm. In large mixing bowl combine all ingredients and stir thoroughly. Pour mixture into greased 9x13” pan and cover with foil. Cook covered for 25 minutes.
Offer Valid On Gift Card Purchases Through 12/30/20
← Photo by Stephanie West
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#EAT614 It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.
@sweetlyseeley
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@henquarterdublin
@pintroomdublin
@tonytanner
@moutononhigh
@vegfoodie614
@thetastygood
@friday.lunch.614
@trattoriaromaoh
@cbusadventures
@ryeriversocial
@cbusfoodfanatics
@smallcakescbus
@fartleyfarms
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Be(et) Still My Heart
Love them or hate them, beets are for everybody. By Melissa Braithwaite
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eets. While it may be one of the more divisive veggies in the marketplace, the crimson, purple, or yellow or striped root veggies are beloved by many for their earthy versatility. Pickled, steamed, roasted or juiced, these nutritional powerhouses are masters of transformation. We believe there is a beet recipe for everybody whether it’s simply roasted, in a quick pickle, or even used to bake a healthier brownie or red velvet cake. Even if you are not a beet lover, there are many other practical uses for this veggie. Let’s take a look at a couple of the many ways to use these colorful root vegetables, as well as some Columbus restaurants serving them up fresh. →
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for the
BEET LOVERS
Who Eat Them Like Candy
Roasted Beet Salad Alqueria, 247 King Ave., Columbus The simple name does not give this complex salad enough credit. Curried pickled cauliflower, radishes, pistachios and blue cheese elevate the roasted beets to a new place. Although the combination might seem strange, it completely works. Finished with cider gastrique, this is our local go-to beet salad. Northstar Burger Northstar, various locations, Columbus This is arguably the best veggie burger in the city. Not only are these always freshly made, but they are powered by beets! A satisfying mixture of organic black beans, brown rice and beets, topped with white cheddar, kale, tomato, pickle and onion make for a healthy meat-free meal. Beets by Zest Zest Juice Co., various locations, Columbus This beet-forward juice is chock-full of antioxidants with a flavor that will have you wanting more. The combination of beet, apple, carrot, celery and lime juices is as pleasant to the taste buds as it is good for the body.
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for the
BEET HATERS
Who Won’t Eat Them
Eat the (Beet) Greens Maybe you don’t love beets, and that’s OK, but don’t discount the greens! These brightly colored greens are nutritious and delicious. They can be used in place of any other green, including kale or spinach, and have a similar taste to Swiss chard. Try them sauteed; they offer a hint of sweetness. Try this incredibly easy sauteed beet recipe for a delicious, and even decadent, side dish. Chop up the greens and separate the stems from the leaves. Fry up a couple of slices of bacon, and remove them from the pan, only to add in the stems and saute in the bacon fat. Add the leaves and saute with some garlic, salt and pepper. Saute until wilted and move to a serving dish. Crumble the bacon and add to the greens. Juice a lemon over top of the greens to taste and serve. Natural Egg Dye Are you turned off by the numerous strangesounding chemicals in your Easter egg dye? Beets to the rescue! Use this recipe not only with beets, but also with yellow onion skins, turmeric and red cabbage for a healthier way to color your eggs. Try different fruits, spices, and veggies you have in your pantry to make your own dyes. The rule of thumb is that if it stains your hands, it will dye your eggs. Simply bring 2 cups of water to a rolling boil and add your natural coloring agent. Reduce the heat and simmer for at least a half hour and up to an hour for a deeper, saturated color. Using a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth, strain the liquid into a large mason jar and allow to cool to room temperature. Stir in 2 tbsp. white vinegar and add 3 hard-boiled eggs. Screw on the lid and put in the fridge overnight. Air dry the eggs and rub on a dab of vegetable oil to give them a shiny, festive finish.
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A tour of hearty brews for winter hibernation By Jack McLaughlin Photos By Alex Lefebvre
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ure, summer beers are nice. You might find a crisp kolsch, or a bright, refreshing gose, but I’m going to be real with you for a minute: winter beers are the pinnacle of craft flavor, and among these dark, hearty brews, the stout is king. For all of us brew enthusiasts, Columbus has a bustling beer scene where you can’t throw a rock without hitting a good stout (but please don’t, lest you destroy a great bottle of wine or a warm whiskey). So this winter, when you’re ready to curl up around the fireplace, or you need something strong to escape the doldrums of quarantine, we’ve put together a list of the best local stouts for you to try. Some are light for the style, while others top 10% ABV, and there’s everything from chocolate and vanilla to coffee in between. But regardless of the variance, all these beers have a couple things in common: they’re local, and they’re really, really good.
American STOUT Parsons North I was tempted to include their barrel aged imperial stout on this list instead (another great brew from the young German Village brewery), but most of the time when I want a local dark beer that’s drinkable and won’t put me on my back (at only 6.5% it has the lowest ABV on our list), I reach for this one. And that really is the beauty of this sneakily-drinkable brew. Many of the other beers on this list–fantastic as they may be–are bears; thick and decadent to the point where drinking more than one in a sitting might be too much. This one’s different though, you can put back a few on a given evening and stay on your feet. Hearty enough to be satisfying on a winter evening and light enough to remain sessionable, American Stout really does represent the best of both worlds. With nicely-roasted malt layers and seriously huge chocolate notes–all balanced by just a touch of american hops–this beer finishes velvety-smooth. 614NOW.COM
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Fox in the SNOW Seventh Son The term pastry stout is thrown around a good amount in the craft beer world these days, and the adjunctladen beers in this style (that mimic the sweetness of pastries with sweet, malty stouts as their base beer), are some of the most polarizing you can find. So, sorry haters and purists, but this pastry stout deserves a spot on this list. An homage to a brownie offered by Fox in the Snow Cafe, which has a nearby 4th St. location (as well as two others throughout Columbus), this beer is classified by the brewery as an imperial salted chocolate stout, and it holds up to the name. At 9.7% ABV, this big beer hides its sweetness and booziness extremely very well among a full slate of speciality ingredients. While flaked oats create a smooth, drinkable body, cocoa nibs combine with vanilla beans for a true (and balanced) dessert-in-a-glass experience.
DARK Apparition Jackie O's And now for the last beer standing. Last on our list for a reason—because it’s the boss. This is a beer that yours truly believes is one of the best in America and can now call Columbus home, as Athens-based Jackie O’s took over the former Elevator taproom and production facility downtown and officially opened in November. While Jackie O’s wildly popular Rusiian imperial stout was originally sold as a base beer without adjuncts or barrel aging (similar to Wolf’s Ridge Dire Wolf), this one also comes in a litany of different variants (such as vanilla & coffee bean, bourbon barrel, cognac, and many more). And for good reason: it’s phenomenal. Even though this stout is crafted using seven different malt varieties andin a unique twist, brown sugar, I don’t have much to add about the 10.5% ABV beer. That’s because while Dark Apparition hits all the notes–chocolate with a rich, almost caramel malt body and slight, offsetting bitterness–everything blends together just right allowing each single element to disappear seamlessly into the mix. 24
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SOHIO Stout
Columbus Brewing Coffee is notoriously difficult to brew with, but Columbus Brewing handles it in this seasonal release with aplomb. Like the rest of their catalogue, this beer–which for 2020 was released in limited quantities, mostly in the Columbus market–is flawless. According to Columbus Brewing marketing director Evan Magliocca, this beer first hit Columbus in 2016, and was brought back following a wave of positive feedback from local beer drinkers. Named as an homage to Standard Oil of Ohio, a now-defunct chain of midwestern gas stations that went under in 1991, this winter brew also nods to another local business we all love: Brioso coffee, which Magliocca says the CBC staff drinks on the daily and stands behind as some the best roast in state. One of the lighter offerings on a list of heavy-hitters (Sohio Stout clocks in at 8.3% ABV), this beer manages to incorporate wonderfully robust coffee, but does so deftly, as it doesn’t overpower the rich, dark base beer. With big notes of chocolate and a sweet, malty foundation, the coffee in Sohio Stout takes on more of a supporting role, contributing a wonderful, bitter balance.
Dire WOLF Wolf's Ridge Who's afraid of the big bad (dire) wolf? I’m definitely not; I seek this one out every chance I get. Dire Wolf has been around long enough–and is good enough–to have established itself as something of an icon in the burgeoning craft beer scene of Columbus. Pouring pitch black and featuring all the huge notes of roasted malts, coffee, and chocolate we want in a Russian imperial stout, this imposing beer (10.4% ABV) is an exercise in serious balance and flavor. But we’re not the only ones who think so. The lauded history of Dire Wolf includes a gold medal at the 2015 International Beer Competition, a silver medal for the Best of Craft Beer Awards, and a 2017 gold medal in the Beer Army Beer Wars. In addition, Double Chocolate Rum Barrel Dire Wolf (one of its many exciting variants) was counted as one of the 20 best beers of 2020 by Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine. 614NOW.COM
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Shop + Support Local Yellowbird
Carsonie’s Stromboli
www.yellowbirdfs.com (740) 263-6933 13246 Wooster Rd, Mount Vernon, Ohio 43050
www.carsonies.com/upper-arlington (614) 481-5555 1725 W Lane Ave, Columbus, OH 43221
The Yellowbird Foodshed is a multi-farm online grocery experience dedicated to building a sustainable food system for the metropolitan area of Columbus, OH. We partner with small-scale, sustainable farmers and producers in order to provide a convenient way to access fresh, local food. We believe in providing source-identified food raised without the use of harsh chemicals in an effort to enhance the health of the community and support the local economy. Through our year-round online grocery store, members of the community can enjoy weekly ordering that is filled with good food grown close to home. It is time we start asking, Who grew your food? Learn about our weekly produce boxes, 1000+ a la carte grocery items, home delivery, and more at yellowbirdfs.com.
Carsonie’s is the home of Columbus’ favorite Stromboli and a wide selection of Italian cuisine and refreshing libations. Our Upper Arlington location offers a sophisticated beer and wine list, delectable appetizers ranging from antipasti and calamari to spinach and artichoke dip and meatball sliders. The time tested dough recipe provides a deeply satisfying pizza or stromboli experience, and the entrees (like lasagna and pasta rosa) are hearty and nutritious.
Sow Plated
Rusty Bucket
www.sowplated.com (614) 826-0028 1625 West Lane Ave, Upper Arlington, Ohio 43221
www.myrustybucket.com (614) 485-2303 1635 West Lane Ave,Upper Arlington, OH 43221
SOW Plated is a made from scratch health inspired restaurant built on a flavor forward menu that rotates regularly allowing guests to experience food at its peak of freshness. Food cele celebrated in the most natural state possible - pure and delicious, just as nature intended.
Rusty Bucket is a casual American restaurant and tavern, a gathering place where people come to share laughter, smiles, and great conversation over food that makes everyone happy. Satisfying and familiar, the menu is classic American fare, thoughtfully prepared from scratch by each location’s Executive Chef. Cocktails are considered a craft, made-to-order by highly-skilled bartenders. From barrel to glass, no short cuts are taken with the carefully selected beer list. The perfect draft is guaranteed. Order curbside carryout or delivery online at MyRustyBucket.com. All your Bucket favorites are available to-go…including cocktails, beer and wine! Catering and family style menu available online as well.
& Pizza Kitchen
Build A Cart Entertain guests with a top shelf bar cart in your own home By Jaelani Turner-Williams / Photos By Preston Perich
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nstead of visiting a neighborhood bar for your next top-shelf pour, your next night of toasting can be held in the comfort of your own home—so long as you have the right amenities for a bar cart. Find inspiration on handheld vision board apps such as Pinterest and home decor accounts on Instagram, where you’ll find gorgeous contemporary interior designs complete with displays of choice drinks on quaint bar carts. Ideas for decorating bar carts are endless, but they serve as a luxurious and functional piece, complementing other elements in the room–from wall art to books and plants. Whether you purchase your bar cart from IKEA, World Market or decide to tackle a DIY project, the visual element doesn’t have to rely on just drinks Recommending trinkets from vintage and secondhand stores such as Flower Child and Hawk Shop, Good Vibes Hive Founder Dani Sage in Clintonville also notes that she uses glasses she inherited from her grandparents..
← Dani Sage's bar cart
“Vintage glasses–[they’re] cute little cocktail glasses that [can make any drink seem] extra special,” Sage said. “I also always have rock candy swizzle sticks on my bar cart. Not only are they a nod to my obsession with real crystals, they make a fun replacement in any cocktail that calls for simple syrup!” Along with staple elements, bar carts can also be themed. While some families cheekily model their carts after former HBO mob series “The Sopranos” or even Boston-centric sitcom, “Cheers”, Sage’s bar cart often reminds visitors of various period dramas. “Our home is mid-century modern, so I try to pull from that era. “‘The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel’ is like eye candy to me, and since quarantine made work day drinking acceptable again, ‘Mad Men’ is the perfect inspiration!” Sage joked. →
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↑ Dani Sage
“I also love the mystique of it and its old-fashioned nature..."
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Other bar cart owners even draw inspiration from bars and gastropubs, especially spots in the Short North, where nightlife businesses are rampant. At Antiques on High, the brewery is home to a two-sided tuft leather couch and backlit bar with giant amethyst rocks that can be reimagined into bar cart form. With elaborate wallpaper, the mirrored bathrooms of Oddfellows, Law Bird, and Nada have been notorious for impromptu selfies. As bars have faced earlier closings due to social distancing precautions, some bar carts have replicated local bar favorites. “The Top Steakhouse's bar definitely inspired me. In fact, the glass hangers hanging from their ceiling gave me the idea to put similar ones next to my bar for wine and champagne cocktail glasses,” said journalist Paul Meara, who coined his bar cart The Mearabar. “I also love the mystique of it and its old-fashioned nature, which I try to somewhat capture with my bar.” After finding statement glassware and decor, your bar cart is ready to be broken in–with drinks, of course. Whether you decide to pour libations using a large dispenser or top off cocktails with garnishes, your bar cart drink essentials should always be within arm’s reach. “You definitely need the essentials to mix drinks like shakers and stirrers, as well as some of the most common elements many drinks require like olives, cherries, triple sec, simple syrup, tonic water, and club soda,” Meara said. “Everyone's taste is different, so I try to provide as many options for guests when they come through.” As winter kicks in, there’s ample time to rearrange your bar cart, especially in preparation for holiday gatherings. For a rustic feel, decorative antlers and earthy candles can sit atop your bar cart, or they can be swapped for gold and crystal accents for hints of glam as New Year’s Eve approaches. “I’m a compulsive rearranger, constantly moving furniture, art, and accessories all around my house, and the bar cart is no exception–if we’re entertaining, it gets moved around, if I get a new crystal or set of drinking glasses, it gets moved around, if someone gives us a bottle of champagne, it gets moved around,” Sage said. “[Our bar cart] is actually a vintage tea cart, so occasionally I’ll also swap everything out on it to honor it’s former life. The tea I love comes in these beautiful violet apothecary jars and they look so gorgeous on the cart!” As our time indoors will likely be extended as cold weather settles in, setting up a bar cart will be a crafty way of mixing versatile drinks both traditional and new, while entertaining responsibly from home.• Learn more at goodvibeshive.com 614NOW.COM
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↑ Steve Elshoff, Owner
Walk-up Waffles 32
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C Winston’s Coffee and Waffles comes to Clintonville —as a trailer By Aaron Wetli / Photos By Alex Lefebvre
ontrol. Who doesn’t want to have control of their personal and professional lives? Owner and proprietor of Winston’s Coffee and Waffles Steve Eslhoff certainly does, and the Columbus food scene is better for his decision. Elshoff, a Worthington native, got his first taste of the food service industry as a teenager, while slinging pizzas at the now defunct local pizzeria chain Franco’s. “My buddies and I worked at all three locations and we had the time of our lives,” Eshoff said. “I was able to spend time with friends, loved my bosses, and was part of a 614NOW.COM
great community. It was honestly one of the more rewarding times of my personal and professional life.” After high school graduation, Elshoff considered making a career in the food service industry, but college beckoned and those dreams were put on hold. In undergrad, Elshoff became enamored with production and moved to Chicago and New York City, where he worked on nationally televised programs such as “The Jerry Springer Show” and “American Justice.” (For those wondering, Elshoff reports that Jerry Springer and Bill Curtis are kind → WINTER 2020
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↓ The Mod Stuffed with Weiland’s ground beef, then topped with sharp cheddar, romaine, sweet pickles and Winston’s sauce.
"I was happy with what I was doing, but was never truly in love with my career. Food and community kept calling, but I didnt have time to answer."
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people and true professionals). “In my twenties and thirties, I didn’t hit it big as (a) famous drummer and didn’t have my own pizza shop. I was happy with what I was doing, but was never truly in love with my career,” Elshoff said. “Food and community kept calling, but I didn’t have time to answer.” The bug never disappeared, though. After decades in the production business, Elshoff finally decided to get back to his roots, become his own boss, and make a run at the food service industry. After brainstorming with local chefs, restaurateurs, and food service friends, Elshoff decided on a truck and waffles. It was not an easy decision, as many factors played into this choice. But hard work gave way to good luck, and Elshoff quickly found himself owning and operating a food truck in the heart of Clintonville. Winston’s (named for personal inspiration Winston Churchill) checks a lot of boxes in the Clintonville food scene. For starters, the truck has a full espresso bar that offers specialty drinks as well as Crimson Cup Coffee. “There are a few other wonderful coffee shops in Clintonville, but none too close to us. We want to become the local’s choice for their everyday coffee,” Elshoff said.
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And of course, we can’t forget about the waffles. Coming in two distinct styles, Winston’s offers a waffle for every occasion. The first style, called The Common, uses a robust malted waffle batter. The dish is filled with proteins and finished with creative, fresh toppings. For instance, “The Empire” (the most popular menu item) comes stuffed with house-made sausage from Weiland’s Market and is topped with a fried egg, sharp cheddar cheese, romaine, mayo, and green onions. If the concept still sounds fuzzy, picture a traditional Chicken and Waffles entrée with chicken on top of the waffles. At Winston’s, this entrée is called the Southampton, and has the fried chicken INSIDE of the waffles, which are then topped with syrup, butter and green onions. This version of Chicken and Waffles is an innovative and unpretentious take on a comfort food classic, as well as rich, tasty and budget friendly. Rounding out The Common are the Northampton, a spicy buffalo chicken breast concoction topped with blue cheese, shaved celery, red onion and buffalo mayo; The Mod, a mixture of Weiland’s house made ground beef topped with sharp cheddar, sweet pickles and romaine; and The Winston, the syrup-topped malted batter waffle that started it all. →
"I am not a chef and I am not particularly even a foodie. I just want to be my own boss, serve some delicious food, and bond with my community."
↓ Elshoff preparing waffles
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↑ The Empire Stuffed with Weiland’s sausage and topped with a fried egg, sharp cheddar cheese, romaine, and mayo.
↑ The Duke Crown-style waffle with caramelized pearl sugar
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After decades in the production business, Elshoff finally decided to get back to his roots, become his own boss, and make a run at the food service industry.
The second type of waffle, The Crown, is a lighter production that could almost be described as a pastry. These waffles are liege style, which means they are made with yeast and pearl sugar cubes that caramelize into the batter when cooked. Choose from either The Duke (plain), The Dutchess (heavy whipping cream), The Queen (whipped cream, blueberries and strawberries), and The King (Nutella, banana chips and heavy whipping cream). All are sweet and saccharine daydreams. “I am not a chef and I am not particularly even a foodie,” Elshoff said. “I just want to be my own boss, serve some delicious food, and bond with my community.” • Winston’s Coffee and Waffles is located across the street from Weiland’s Market, in the heart of Clintonville, at 3589 Indianola Avenue. 614NOW.COM
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Weathering the Storm Cravings Cafe keeps an even keel in spite of COVID-19 By Nicholas Youngblood / Photos By Alex Lefebvre
← Joe Dip with tortilla chips
↑ Matt & Lindsey Tewanger, Owners
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hen Matt and Lindsey Tewanger talk about their restaurant, it often seems as though they’re discussing a vessel riding the waves of a tumultuous sea. The husband and wife team behind Cravings Cafe, a downtown breakfast and lunch eatery, frequently use terms such as “drowning,” “sink or swim,” “treading water,” and “staying afloat.” When regulars ask how they’re doing, Lindsey will sometimes reply, “I just feel like we’re a little boat, floating in the water.” And the analogy is apt. Tucked into an innocuous spot at 114 N. Front St., Cravings Cafe drifts alone, without another eatery directly visible. The staff has been reduced to a skeleton crew; Matt and Lindsey have been running the place by themselves since March to save money. In the wake of a pandemic that has stormed the restaurant industry, Cravings Cafe
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has been at the mercy of shifting winds and changing tides. But these are familiar waters for Matt and Lindsey, and they think they’re better suited than most to navigate them. “We’ve been training for this for a long time,” said Matt. Cravings Cafe’s location, tucked between the YMCA and a fleet of Columbus government buildings, made it an ideal spot for professionals on the go, and its small menu of handcrafted sandwiches, soups, and pastries (plus daily specials) earned it a fiercely loyal following. Lindsey said they would see some patrons nine times each week, coming in for coffee and lunch. “We almost had a small town feel of community,” she said. But now, most downtown offices sit empty, with employees largely working from home. Foot traffic has dried up, and Cravings Cafe
"I would like people to know how appreciative we are of everybody who comes down
Everybody who walks through the door is so important in just supporting these restaurants."
has kept its dining room closed, opting to save costs by switching to a carryout only model. Luckily for the couple, they cut their entrepreneurial teeth with a similar arrangement, and the transition back to it has been relatively smooth sailing. Cravings began its life in 2011 as a small cookie shop in Italian Village called Cookie Cravings Bakery. The bakery, staffed by Matt and just one other employee, had almost no indoor seating. The shop soon introduced savory crepes, daily soup specials, and homemade brioche rolls and rebranded as Cravings Carryout Cafe to meet local demand for lunch and brunch. In 2015, the business moved downtown to its current location, where a modest dining area allowed the → 614NOW.COM
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couple to drop the “Carryout” from their moniker. Nevertheless, carryout and delivery have remained a mainstay of the business. This softened the blow when the Ohio government imposed restrictions on restaurants to curb the spread of COVID-19 in March. However, that isn’t to say the changes have been painless. Lindsey said the couple was ready to ride out the slow business through Memorial Day. It has now been over nine months since the March shutdown, and she estimated sales are still down 70 percent from last year. “I really think that the only way we were going to tread water was to do everything ourselves,” Matt said. “That was our only option, because the margins are so thin on the food that we’re doing, and we didn’t want to make any compromises there.” Lindsey runs the counter while Matt cooks. Instead of staggering their hours at the restaurant as they used to, Lindsey said they are both there from open to close every weekday. She said she misses being able to unwind with Matt at Parson’s North Brewing Company after closing up shop. But the worst part for her is definitely the dishes. “I’m like the head dishwasher now. Dishes all the time,” Lindsey said, chuckling. “If I don’t touch a dish again for a year, I would be totally fine with that.” Despite the stress of running a business on their own, Lindsey said the couple is working together like a well-oiled machine. Their relationship has been battle-tested by food service since its inception; the two met while working together at Basi Italia. Still, she doesn’t think they could do it without the support of the community. She’s proud of Columbus’s culinary scene, praising the dedication of its patrons and the innovation of local eateries during a tough time. “I would like people to know how appreciative we are of everybody who comes down,” Lindsey said, choking up slightly. “Everybody who walks through the door is so important in just supporting these restaurants.” Another small comfort Lindsey cited is the vulnerability she can share with her customers. Normally, the hospitality industry is all about putting on a smile, no matter the circumstances. Now that the struggles they face are universal, she thinks it’s cathartic for business owners to be upfront about the help they need. “Sometimes it's important to be honest, 40
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↓ Craving's Cafe switches to carryout options in order to adapt
"Sometimes it's important to be honest, and I think it's important to let people know when you might be struggling or you might need more support."
and I think it's important to let people know when you might be struggling or you might need more support,” said Lindsey. In that vein, Matt had a plea for Columbus residents who might have turned inward after months of social distancing. “Don’t forget about downtown,” said Matt. “Downtown is one of the neighborhoods that’s feeling the brunt of this. So even if you’re not gonna come down to our restaurant, come down to another one.” Matt said he doesn’t often have the bandwidth to consider long-term plans for his restaurant, but he knows one thing for certain: With the community’s support, they’re going to come out of this stronger than ever. •
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Get in my belly. Winters in Ohio are for those who love the snow, cold, and consumption of copious amounts of rich, warm, and luxurious food and drink. That's why the winter issue of Stock & Barrel is dedicated to all things hearty this holiday season. Grab a cozy fireplace, your bae, and one of these hefty treats and hunker down for the season of love.
Drinks, Appetizers, Soups, & Desserts
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Toddy Time The historical (medicinal?) cocktail is always in style By Melinda Green / Photos By Sarah Pfeifer
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inter. ‘Tis the season for feeling a little run down. You want something to warm you up, help you relax, soothe your aches—we’ve got just the thing: the hot toddy. Wait, does anyone even do those anymore? As it turns out, yes. And it’s something you can make at home when you’re battling that winter chill. “[A hot toddy]’s always been a thing that’s asked for at bars,” said local mixologist Derek Reno, formerly of The Pearl, Service Bar, and Denmark on High, and currently at the Bar at Echo Spirits. “It can be one of those cocktails that bartenders look at annoyingly, because of the mise en place of pulling it off. But if you have a hot water source that’s readily available, I don’t understand why it’s a big deal. It’s an extremely simple cocktail to make.” With many bars closed, and nowhere welcoming those with a sniffle, making a killer hot toddy at home might be the trend of the season. →
→ Traditional Toddy, with sesame honey (right) It Was the Pits, with rosemary and winter berries (left)
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Hot Toddy Service glass: warmed glass
Ingredients: 2 ounces (tip: a tablespoon is a half ounce) spirit ¼-½ ounces each lemon juice and honey Top with hot water Add a cinnamon stick or cloves—whatever you want The drink should be sippable, but not scalding. As you drink, its flavors will slowly blend and transform.
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"It can be one of those cocktails that bartenders look at annoyingly, because of the mise en place of pulling it off. But if you have a hot water source that’s readily available[...] it's an extremely easy cocktail to make."
“What do you associate with hot toddies? Being sick,” Reno laughs. “But tons of historical cocktails were prescribed in medicinal ways, through apothecaries or snake oil vendors, whichever way you want to look at it.” Like many cocktails, the hot toddy is steeped (no pun intended) in legend. Some claim that it originated in India from a drink made with fermented palm sap and traveled to Great Britain during colonization. Others claim that an Irish doctor, Robert Bentley Todd, concocted it as a curative for his patients. Whether it found its origins in India or the Emerald Isle, the hot toddy became a popular prescription in the 19th-Century British Isles. Jerry Thomas’s The Bartender’s Guide from 1862 listed the recipe as “a scant amount of sugar, plus a wine glass of brandy, hot water, and nutmeg.” “Really, just lemon, hot water, and whiskey is enough,” Reno said. And it’s a cocktail even a beginner can make: warm a glass, add the ingredients, top it with hot water, and drink up. Reno attests to its power, “I’ve felt under the weather and had some spirit, and felt better, at least for the moment. So it’s not like it’s untrue. I’ve gone back and forth on my view of a hot toddy, but it’s real when you need it.” The first great thing about a hot toddy is that it's simple. All you need are a cup and basic kitchen utensils. A glass mug with a handle is ideal, due to the way it distributes heat. But no matter what vessel you use, the first step is to warm it: “True hack, you can stick the empty glass in the microwave,” Reno
→ It Was The Pits, with rosemary and winter berries
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→ Derek Reno, Bar at Echo Spirits
said. “I’m not recommending the microwave for cocktails, ever, but whatever—there are times it works, especially at home.” That simple base recipe allows for infinite variations. Substitute different sweeteners or syrups for the honey, other citrus for the lemon, or even other liquids for the water. Reno likes to experiment with oolong or rooibos tea. Customize to your heart’s content. Whiskey is the preferred spirit of modern times, and brandy is a more traditional pick. Reno recommends a split base of Martell cognac and Irish or rye whiskey. Some people swear by dark rum. But Jeffrey Morganthaler of Portland, one of the stars of the modern cocktail movement, raised the truly important question: “who cares what spirit you use?” Tequila? Might be worth a shot (okay, pun intended). Vodka? Gin? What's the worst that can happen? An undrinkable toddy? Perish the thought. The other great thing about a hot toddy is that you can adjust proportions to taste. Have a sweet tooth or have a scratchy throat, bring on the honey. If congestion is the problem, ante up extra spirits and citrus. Make it into a spice bomb with cinnamon sticks, cloves, and ginger. For those really feeling rough, soften the edge with more water. And let's face it: sometimes you can feel, really, really rough. Like, "stagger to the kitchen in your pajamas, sniffling and coughing in misery" rough. In that case, it's okay if you microwave some water in a coffee mug, add a splash or two of your favorite spirit, dump in a little sugar, and finish it with lemon juice from a squeeze bottle. No one will judge. It still counts as a hot toddy, and it still soothes the body and soul. Let’s raise a toast to that. •
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Hot & Hearty Winter bevies that warm the hands and heart this season By Sarah Sole / Photos By Leonardo Carrizo
When the days get shorter, darker and colder, there really is nothing better than peeling off those freezing gloves and warming your cold hands with a hot mug of...well something delicious. With the right ingredients, you can craft a special bevy to warm your body and heart, too. Andrea Cornwell, Cameron Mitchell Restaurants’ beverage director, said she looks to familiarity, tradition, and all those things that make you feel cozy at home when trying to find inspiration for a hot winter cocktail. Things like rich baking spices, caramel, vanilla, cigars, and oak are all part of her winter drink palette. “All those different, subtle flavors make me think of [winter] time,” she said. Bourbon and rum especially are two spirits that Cornwell favors for cold-weather drinks. Incorporating bright fruit flavors also complement and brighten the bolder baking spices, she said. Oh and a little bit of mouth feel. “You’re looking for that type of richness or depth in flavor that is carried through by a texture,” she said. In the hot buttered rum cocktail at Mitchell’s Ocean Club, Cornwell used brown sugar, honey, and baking
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spices, the latter of which she brightened up with a bit of salt. The butter, she said, makes the flavor linger a bit longer on the palate. Although the drink has a sweeter profile, Cornwell said it can be enjoyed before, during, or after a meal. “It would really go with anything perfectly,” she said, adding it goes well with steak, oysters, or a chocolate or caramel dessert. →
↑ Hot Buttered Rum Cocktail from Mitchell’s Ocean Club
Hot Buttered Rum Recipe Service glass: footed mug Prep glass: thermos Garnish: half cinnamon, sugar, salt (equal parts) rim
Ingredients: 2 ounces Don Pancho 8-Year Rum 4 ounces hot water 2 tablespoons spiced butter (recipe below*) Combine all ingredients in thermos and pour Hot Buttered Rum in mug. Feel free to make one at a time until anticipated volume is established. Multiple servings are available for ease of execution. *Spiced Butter Recipe 2/3 cup packed dark brown sugar 1/2 cup room temperature unsalted butter 1/4 cup honey 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves Pinch salt Using an electric mixer, beat all ingredients until blended and smooth.
Yield is 4 Hot Buttered Rum Cocktails, refrigerate/store 7-10 days
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"You’re looking for that type of richness or depth in flavor that is carried through by a texture." Andrea Cornwell, Beverage Director at Cameron Mitchell Restaurants
↑ Spiced Cider from Two Truths
Like Cornwell, Two Truths General Manager Laurie Granger also uses nostalgia as inspiration for creating seasonal drinks. She said their Spiced Cider, available hot or cold, has been a hit this fall. “It’s probably our most popular carryout cocktail right now,” she said. The drink is made with Sagamore Rye, Ancho Reyes Verde Poblano Liqueur, Angostura Bitters and mulled Ohio cider. Rye is especially fitting for a cider, Granger said, because it already has its own spice. The Poblano liqueur also adds a mild heat, perfect for the chilly season. The cider is mulled in-house with allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg. While a good spiced drink is a way to warm up, some say that a bit of caffeine is often the ticket to ward off those winter doldrums. Scott Neff, operating partner at Fado Irish Pub
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at Easton Town Center and Fado Pub & Kitchen in Dublin, said many people think of Irish whiskey as a drink for cold days. Fado’s uses Columbus coffee roaster Jennings Java with the whiskey Tullamore D.E.W. “To us, it had flavor components that went the best with coffee,” said Neff. While some whiskeys can “hit you” when heated up, this one was smoother, he said. To make the drink, Neff heats up coffee and adds a tablespoon of dark brown sugar. After adding the whiskey, he tops it with fresh whipped cream. To give it true Irish flair, he sprinkles cinnamon on the cream using a special template to create three interlocking swirls. This design is the same one found on the ancient Newgrange monument, and one that many believe symbolizes birth, life, and the afterlife, Neff said.
“You get history involved,” he said. For another drink that’s rich in heritage, look to the chocolat chaud, from La Chatelaine French Bakery & Bistro. This decadent hot chocolate (chaud means “warm” in French) is served in a bowl rather than a cup, and it’s meant to be held with your fingertips, said co-owner Valerian Wielezynski. The drink is made from scratch each time it’s ordered, Wielezynski said. First, ganache, a mixture of La Chatelaine’s homemade chocolate combined with African dark chocolate, is combined with cream in a double boil, making the mixture reach a consistency akin to melted butter. Then it’s steamed with heavy cream and milk. Honey is added to the drink, which is served with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. “There’s always a wow factor when they see the bowl coming to them,” he said.
↓ I rish Whiskey from Fado Irish Pub
↑ Two Truths bar is offering carryout cocktails like this Spiced Cider cocktail.
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↑ Grand Tour Charcuterie Kit
Big Apps, Big Flavor Charcuterie boards offer lavish eats for holiday starter courses By Nicholas Youngblood / Photos By Leonardo Carrizo
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T
he holidays are fast approaching, and in the interest of public health, most celebrations will be scaled down significantly. Think positive, though: At least you won’t have to prepare enough glazed ham or brisket to feed an army of aunts and uncles. If you’re looking for a way to spend that extra time and money elevating the festive foods you serve your pandemic pod, consider a charcuterie board. The customizability makes it easy to tailor to your group’s tastes, and the small audience means you can splurge on high quality ingredients. Duncan Forbes, co-owner of North Country Charcuterie, said a board can even bring people together. “The neat thing about Charcuterie boards is that you share it in a way that you don’t share other foods,” Forbes said. “The intent is for everybody to enjoy the board together and savor that moment that you’re sharing with each other.” Forbes and his family run North Country, which specializes in curing meats and pairing them with the perfect cheeses and accoutrement, all locally sourced. If you want to construct a stunning and delicious holiday charcuterie board that would put foodie Instagram feeds to shame, Forbes has some need-to-know tips.
What is charcuterie? Charcuterie is surprisingly tough to pin down. The name comes from a French term that means “cooked flesh,” but what else you include is a point of heated contention. “Wars have been started over less,” Forbes said. The ever-expanding realm of acceptable companions for a plate of sausage can be overwhelming and frankly ridiculous, so Forbes narrowed it down to the essentials. By his definition, a charcuterie board must include a cured meat, a cheese and a pickled vegetable. The acidity of pickled veggies is essential in Forbes’s eyes, as it helps cut through the fattiness and reset your palate between bites. Forbes said everything else is optional. Just add some crackers, and you’re good to go. →
“The intent is for everybody to enjoy the board together and savor that moment that you’re sharing with each other.”
↓ Savor the Moment Charcuterie Kit
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Picking ingredients
Beyond the basic three, it is up to your imagination.
Although three ingredients might seem simple enough, that means they must be chosen carefully. Forbes said since every other element is selected to support the meat. The standard choice is some type of sausage, but you can include a variety of meats to mix things up. Prosciutto is popular, and North Country Charcuterie even offers spreadable chorizo. No matter what meat you choose, Forbes said it is important to buy fresh, whole links. There’s no telling how long a packaged, presliced meat has been sitting on the shelf. After you’ve selected your meat, it’s time to find a cheese that will pair well. Researching pairings can be helpful if you aren’t sure what direction to take, but Forbes said it’s most important to buy something you like. While there’s value to professional opinions, you’re the one who has to eat it.
↑ Island Hopping Charcuterie Kit
To test out cheeses, Forbes suggested picking up a few “cheese babies” each time you get groceries. Most supermarkets sell a wide variety of scraps from large blocks in a bin near the deli, helping you determine what will compliment your board. Next up is the pickled vegetable. There are tons of options, including red onions, mustard seeds, carrots, and cauliflower. Forbes highly recommended pickled sweety drop peppers. The small red peppers bring a pop of sweetand-sour acidity to any board, and their bright color makes them a great visual accent (more on that later). Beyond the basic three, it is up to your imagination. Forbes suggests avoiding overwhelming flavors, such as hot peppers. Jam, marmalade, or even honey can add muchneeded sweetness, but he warned against including candy or mint, no matter how festive. Chocolate is a rare exception, as some highquality dark chocolates fit right in with the proper cheese.
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It can be a really fun, creative outlet for folks who don’t normally have a creative outlet.”
↑ Chef James Forbes
Arranging your board You have your ingredients picked out. How do you make a board that’s as beautiful as it is delicious? Forbes has tips for that, too. First, a rule of thumb for any board is to provide an ounce of meat and an ounce of cheese per person. If you’re only feeding your family, this will allow you to invest in top-shelf ingredients, but it also might make it tough to arrange. Forbes suggested slicing as thinly as possible to create attractive arrangements and slow down would-be cheese hogs. Everyone has seen the sliced meats and cheeses fanned out or shingled on a platter, but Forbes stressed that contrast and variety are what make an arrangement stand out. Place dark meats next to lighter cheeses, dot with peppers or jam for a pop of red, chunk up hard cheese for texture, or accent with fresh herbs for a splash of green. Rosemary and pomegranate seeds can even provide a festive facsimile for pine needles and holly berries. “It can be a really fun, creative outlet for folks who don’t normally have a creative outlet, “ he said. “Everyone is gonna try to have a meal at some point during the day, so have some fun with it and put some thought and care into the creation of the charcuterie board.” •
EXPERIENCE OUR NEW MENU WITH DINE-IN OR CARRY-OUT
Scan to view our menu
LOCATED IN THE ICONIC LEVEQUE TOWER 6 1 4 . 74 5 . 0 3 2 2 • T H E K E E P CO L U M B U S . CO M
Learn more at northcountrycharcuterie.com
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e W a t p h u e o r S
↑ Red Bean Chili from Pablo's Havana Café
Columbus is rich with hearty options for cold days By Melinda Green / Photos By Sarah Pfeifer
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I
t’s cold out, and you know what that means. It’s soup weather at long last. Sure, you can go to one of the big national or regional chains known for their soups, but how about trying a really substantial, soul-warming bowl from somewhere a little more local? “On a colder day, we definitely have a lot of friends and customers coming in and asking for the chicken soup,” said Pablo Taura, owner of Pablo’s Havana Café in Powell. “It’s really hearty.” His chicken soup starts with boiling whole chicken legs for flavor, then removing the bones and returning the meat to the stockpot with vegetables and noodles. Taura, who is Cuban, uses his mother’s and grandmother’s recipes for authentic flavor. His black bean soup, which is the traditional accompaniment to most of the cafe’s dishes, is vegetarian and complex. It’s a thick soup that contains sauteed green peppers, onion, garlic, and cumin, brightened with oregano and bay leaf, as well as a few secret ingredients.
His red bean soup is based on a rich beef consomme left over from the preparation of other dishes, combined with tomato sauce and vegetables. That soup also becomes the basis for the Cuban chili, loaded with picadillo beef and topped with onions and cheese. This chili is wonderfully robust, definitely not low-calorie, and satisfying in every bite. Taura points out that Cuban cuisine is full of spice, but not spicy. There might be a hint of heat, but not enough to obscure the myriad other flavors. That complexity of flavor makes Cuban soups hearty in so many ways. For another great chicken soup, head to Giuseppe’s Ritrovo in Bexley. It’s not always listed on the printed menu, and when it is, those in the know say it’s simply called “zuppa.” The staff refers to it as “CCP”—chicken, carrot, and potato. It's simple, but perfect: Generous chunks of chicken, carrot, and potato, delightfully seasoned, in a broth that's full flavored yet perfectly balanced. →
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If the depth and earthiness of a good lentil soup is more your style, Aladdin’s Eatery’s three locations have some of the best in town. You can add chicken, but really, you don’t need to. The vegan version is deliciously satisfying on its own. Just go ahead and pick up an entire quart and thank yourself later. Maybe Vietnamese pho and noodle soups are your thing–there are plenty of robust choices all over town. Among the best, though, is a spicy Hue style noodle soup at Mi Li’s Cafe in north Columbus. Slices of cha lua (pork sausage) and beef greet vermicelli in a deeply flavorful bone broth, made spicy with as much chili paste as you dare. Among Asian soups, this one stands out as definitely substantial. And if you’re a die-hard meat eater, it’s hard to beat the Hungarian goulash from Mozart’s Café in Clintonville—part soup, part stew, all delicious. Tender cubes of beef, simmered with potatoes, onions, and a generous dose of paprika, will warm any carnivore’s heart and fill a growling stomach. The chunk of focaccia served alongside ensures you won’t leave behind a drop of that amazing stock.
Hibernating at Home But what if you can’t decide what to order or simply can’t wait for a delivery? Wouldn’t it be great if a hearty soup was already in your freezer, waiting to console you on a bitterly cold day? We have an answer for that too: meal prep services are here to save the day. Sure, there are the trendy DIY subscriptions you see advertised on social media. But we’re talking about true meal prep, where all you need to do is heat and eat. “Most people are not good at cooking, or they’re good at cooking one or two things,” said Carissa Paddock, owner and chef at From My Kitchen to Yours 614 in Dublin. Paddock has been providing meal prep services for five years, adding soups, sold by the pint, last year. “When the weather is like this, you want something cozy,” she continued. Her offerings rotate, but at present, there are a whopping 17 soups on the menu, including vegetable, broccoli cheddar, and Tuscan white bean chili. Among the most popular are chicken pot pie soup served with a side of puff pastry, and Cajun veggie chowder, full of vegetables and spices, with an almond-milk cream sauce. These soups freeze well, so they’re always on hand when you need a quick, warming meal. And, unlike a restaurant, a meal prep service often can customize a batch of soup to meet dietary restrictions or nutritional goals. Paddock’s service doesn’t require a minimum order (although it’s easiest to order a couple weeks’ worth at a time), and her delivery area covers greater Columbus. So whether you decide to carry out, dine in, order delivery, or stock your freezer, Columbus has your feel-good meals covered this winter. Try the soup. Stay warm. Enjoy the comfort. • 60
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↑ Tuscan White Bean Chili from From My Kitchen to Yours 614
↑ Cajun Veggie Chowder from From My Kitchen to Yours 614
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Fritters for Days Move over, doughnuts, Columbus has bigger, badder, sweet treats for you this winter By Jack McLaughlin / Photos By Leonardo Carrizo
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← Apple Fritters from Jolly Pirate Donuts (left) & DK Diner (right)
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egular doughnuts routinely get all the love, and to an extent, we get it. They look very tempting; sometimes they’re even flashy. Between frosting colors, outlandish flavors, and eye-catching toppings, there’s an almost endless variety to choose from. Then we have the cousin to the mighty doughnut—the fritter. Don’t be fooled by its plain-Jane appearance when you’re really in the mood to go all in with a delicious, hearty calorie-bomb. There’s nothing better than a fritter, the pinnacle of indulgence, the ultimate decadence. By definition, a fritter is simply pieces of food—an apple, for example—surrounded by or dipped into batter and deep-fried. Culturally they’ve become something else: something bigger, badder–and oftentimes a lot better–than regular doughnuts. Here’s our list of the best fritters in Columbus. You might want to loosen your belt by a notch or two before you check them out, you’re going to need the room.
Golden Donuts & Diner
↑ Apple Fritter from Golden Donuts & Diner
1928 Lockbourne Rd. Maybe it’s due to the out-of-the-way location (south of downtown on Lockbourne Rd.), or it might be the unassuming exterior, but Golden Donuts & Diner remains relatively unknown, even among Columbus foodies. I’m here to put this nonsense to rest though, because you should know about it. Charming interior aside, this former Jolly Pirate Donuts location feels like it was plucked from the 1970s in all the best ways. Golden Donuts has all the ingredients to become an underthe-radar favorite for hordes of breakfastloving Ohians. Not only are its fritters generously sized and perfectly sweet and decadent (the nooks and crannies on its surface actually allow more icing to collect than in others), the price on them feels like it comes from the ‘70s as well: they cost only $1. Yes, you read that right. In a world where a single dollar bill most times can't even buy a bottle of water, this feels like a historically good deal for a massive pastry that’s prepared just right. It’s the best deal on our list, and one you should be taking advantage of it. Like now. → 614NOW.COM
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Buckeye Donuts
↑ Half of an Apple Fritter from Buckeye Donuts
Jolly Pirate Donuts
1998 N. High St. (Campus location) Note: As a point of clarification, there is a Buckeye Donuts located just a few miles south of this one at 1363 S. High St., but the two are no longer affiliated. While this location makes great donuts in its own right, we’re talking about the campus spot here. There aren’t many more iconic OSU storefronts than the Buckeye Donuts campus location. Situated in the heart of High St., you can’t miss this spot, complete with its antique neon signage and wonderfullythrowback interior. First opened in 1969 by Greek immigrants George Barouxis, Jim Barouxis, and George Sauter, the original Buckeye Donuts was, strangely enough, also a former Jolly Pirate Donuts location. More than just doughnuts, this 24-hour spot–often a late night beacon for students on the weekend–features allday, diner-style breakfast, in addition to lunch items that highlight the spot’s Greek history, with a wide variety of hand-cut gyros such as the classic, falafel gyro, and Philly cheesesteak, starting at $4.99. But now let’s talk about what we’re really here for: their apple fritter. You’ll know which one is the fritter after just a glance, because this thing is quite literally twice the size of most of the doughnuts. They’re the largest fritter on our list, and they take that title with ease. These giants are nearly as wide as a regular dinner plate, and they’re each three to four inches tall, featuring chunks of apple, cinnamon, and of course a generous glaze coating. At $1.85 a piece, this one’s another unbelievable value.
↑ Jolly Pirate Donuts (left) DK Diner (right)
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Multiple locations. There aren’t many more iconic OSU storefronts than the Buckeye Donuts campus location. Situated in the heart of High St., you can’t miss this spot, complete with its antique neon signage and wonderfully-throwback interior. First opened in 1969 by Greek immigrants George Barouxis, Jim Barouxis, and George Sauter, the original Buckeye Donuts was, strangely enough, also a former Jolly Pirate Donuts location. More than just doughnuts, this 24-hour spot–often a late night beacon for students on the weekend– features all-day, diner-style breakfast, in addition to lunch items that highlight the spot’s Greek history, with a wide variety of hand-cut gyros such as the classic, falafel gyro, and Philly cheesesteak, starting at $4.99. But now let’s talk about what we’re really here for: their apple fritter. You’ll know which one is the fritter after just a glance, because this thing is quite literally twice the size of most of the doughnuts. They’re the largest fritter on our list, and they take that title with ease. These giants are nearly as wide as a regular dinner plate, and they’re each three to four inches tall, featuring chunks of apple, cinnamon, and of course a generous glaze coating. At $1.85 a piece, this one’s another unbelievable value.
DK Diner 1715 W. 3rd Ave. This Grandview spot, whose name stands for Donut King Diner, is tucked away off the neighborhood’s main thoroughfare, so it might be another one you haven't heard of, but it’s also another one you should know about. The diner’s current owner Anthony Teny purchased the location in 1992, and while it had previously served as a standalone doughnut shop, Teny and family got to work expanding the business to include more eclectic fare (today they offer a menu featuring breakfast plates and sandwiches), including a full liquor license. According to Teny’s son Van Miller, who was born the same year DK Diner was purchased and grew up alongside it, the spot has become a longtime favorite for many throughout Grandview and beyond. Something other than a loyal customer base that hasn’t changed with the diner? Its original fritter recipe. These apple fritters are the most expensive on our list at $3.50 each, but they’re still worth every penny, and it’s noticeable that these pastries feature a bit more culinary flair than the rest of the list, with premium ingredients to boot. While chunks of fruit adorn the tops of these fritters (and are tastefully portioned throughout it as well), waves of cocoa and cinnamon are swirled throughout the pastry and apparent from the first bite, elevating the usually no-frills fritter into a delicious and surprisingly gourmet treat.
HoneyDip Donuts & Diner 4480 Kenny Rd. There aren’t many more iconic OSU storefronts than the Buckeye Donuts campus location. Situated in the heart of High St., you can’t miss this spot, complete with its antique neon signage and wonderfully-throwback interior. First opened in 1969 by Greek immigrants George Barouxis, Jim Barouxis, and George Sauter, the original Buckeye Donuts was, strangely enough, also a former Jolly Pirate Donuts location. More than just doughnuts, this 24-hour spot–often a late night beacon for students on the weekend– features all-day, diner-style breakfast, in addition to lunch items that highlight the spot’s Greek history, with a wide variety of hand-cut gyros such as the classic, falafel gyro, and Philly cheesesteak, starting at $4.99. But now let’s talk about what we’re really here for: their apple fritter. You’ll know which one is the fritter after just a glance, because this thing is quite literally twice the size of most of the doughnuts. They’re the largest fritter on our list, and they take that title with ease. These giants are nearly as wide as a regular dinner plate, and they’re each three to four inches tall, featuring chunks of apple, cinnamon, and of course a generous glaze coating. At $1.85 a piece, this one’s another unbelievable value. •
Don’t be fooled by its plain-Jane appearance when you’re really in the mood to go all in with a delicious, hearty calorie-bomb.
↓ Fritter from Buckeye Donuts for the Holidays (foreground); fritters from DK Diner, Jolly Pirate Donuts, HoneyDip Donuts & Diner and Golden Donuts & Diner (background) ↓ Apple Fritter from HoneyDip Donuts & Diner
There’s nothing better than a fritter, the pinnacle of indulgence, the ultimate decadence.
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Get your eat on
before these pop-ups are gone for the winter By Jack McLaughlin
There’s something about a pop-up that makes the food and drinks they offer just taste better. Maybe it’s the ephemerality of it all, knowing the spot you’re eating in isn’t permanent, or maybe it has more to do with their cool kid energy, as many pop-ups are vibrant, new restaurants without a permanent home yet. Either way, we’re all for them, and we think you should be too. This winter has no shortage of fun and flavor either, with numerous must-try spots throughout the booming Columbus food scene. Check out this list and grab it while you can.
Fried Chicka Bang Out of Sunny Street Cafe
Right from the start I’m going to issue an official warning to stay away from the Instagram account of Fried Chicka Bang if you’re hungry. It will drive you certifiably insane. This new pop-up operating out of Sunny Street Cafe in Polaris (open from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m., between Wednesday and Sunday) was started by a trio of sisters slinging massive fried chicken sandwiches and salads (plus decadent house-made sauces), utilizing only fresh ingredients and cooking from scratch. From the Hotstepper, a Nashville-style hot chicken sandwich (complete with pickles and ranch), to the searing Ghostface–with ghost pepper baste, ancho shake, chipotle mayo, and blistered jalapeno–and the eclectic Choo Choo, incorporating black sesame shake, gochujang mayo, and sweet and spicy slaw, this chicken you definitely don’t want to miss.
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Miracle Pop-up Bar Above Veritas, 11 W. Gay St.
What does a 14-foot tall inflatable igloo have in common with a towering, 11-foot likeness of the Grinch? The answer is the Columbus installment of Miracle, a hip, engaging worldwide network of seasonal pop-up bars. And while COVID-19 throws some cold water on this scorchingly-popular holiday spot, Miracle is still one of the most unique and energetic social spots in the city, bar or otherwise. “It’s a blast, and something we look forward to every year,” said Lindsey Gerhardt, bar manager of Miracle Columbus and The Citizens Trust, where the pop-up is located (above Veritas). Miracle, now on its third year in Columbus, truly goes all-out on the decor, and it’s a sight to see. From the aforementioned novelties to a full-size Christmas tree, a litany of winter trinkets, and atmospheric, engaging lighting, you won’t want to leave.
Where it All Vegan Multiple locations
Billed as vegan soul food, Where it All Vegan is a mobile pop-up operating out of a food trailer that moves between an OSU campus location (1680 N. High St.) on Friday, from 5 to 8 p.m., and Virtue Salon (3282 N. High St.) on Saturday, from noon until 5 p.m. The eatery is closed Monday through Thursday. Their signature dish is a meatless take on hot wings called Chik’n Wingz that utilize a soy-based protein encased in crispy breading. And there are no shortages of vegan wing sauces either, as diners can pick between, garlic parmesan, Jamacian jerk, mango habanero, spicy Buffalo, and sweet BBQ. There’s more where that came from as well. Other dishes such as wraps, salads, and their Chik’n sandwich, which piles your choice of Chik’n Wingz onto a brioche bun with crisp veggies and drizzle of dairy-free ranch, make this a spot you’ll want to catch every weekend.
Black Box Fix Locations TBD
The first time I tried Black Box Fix, I experienced a bonafide where-have-youbeen-all-my-life food moment. While the Cleveland eatery’s creative, often cajun-inspired decadence is coming with a new restaurant to Easton Town Center later in 2021, you’ll be able to try out some of their more popular items at several pop-up events that will likely hit Columbus in January. According to head chef and owner Eric Rogers, BBF plans to offer the now-iconic OMG Philly, which features grilled chicken and creole shrimp with mushrooms, onion, peppers, and swiss cheese, all served on a hoagie roll with specialty house mayo; the OMG 2.0 that adds buttered lobster; and the OMG 3.0, including grilled chicken, steak, and fried lobster. And you’ll need a side of Stoner Fries with that as well, which heap steak, lobster, onions, peppers, cajun cheese sauce, and scallions over fresh, hot fries.
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