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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Basic Biscuits
Yellowbird
www.getbasicbiscuits.com (614) 549-5955 1160 Goodale Boulevard, Columbus
www.yellowbirdfs.com (740) 263-6933 13246 Wooster Rd, Mount Vernon
At Basic Biscuits, Kindness & Coffee, we believe that basic ingredients make the best biscuits, even if some of our flavors are anything but. Our buttermilk biscuit recipe uses whole milk buttermilk, pure butter, flour, salt and leavening to create a flaky layered biscuit. Choose from over a dozen flavors of bite sized mini-biscuits for a snack, or pair them with our house made sausage gravy for a heartier meal. Our larger biscuits serve as the perfect bun for a bacon or sausage, egg & cheese sammie, and buttermilk biscuit dough makes a delightfully flaky crust for our quiche. Come visit us in our store to try any of these goodies, local coffee, honey and jam, plus daily specials!
The Yellowbird Foodshed is a multi-farm online grocery experience dedicated to building a sustainable food system for the metropolitan area of Columbus, OH. We partner with small-scale, sustainable farmers and producers in order to provide a convenient way to access fresh, local food. We believe in providing source-identified food raised without the use of harsh chemicals in an effort to enhance the health of the community and support the local economy. Through our year-round online grocery store, members of the community can enjoy weekly ordering that is filled with good food grown close to home. It is time we start asking, Who grew your food? Learn about our weekly produce boxes, 1000+ a la carte grocery items, home delivery, and more at yellowbirdfs.com.
Get your 614 TShirts Now! 614now.com/shop Back by popular demand. Be prepared to tell people where you snagged this comfy tee. Even better? Shipping is free! Available in Charcoal, Royal, Red, and White. Printed right here in Columbus, Ohio!
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BIG PICTURE Looking for the best Pumpkin Pie this fall season? See one place that gets a lot of visitors on pg. 60. PHOTO BY ALLY SCHNAIDT
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CONTENTS 42
OVER GENERATIONS How recipes and traditions preserved through time spice up our food scene.
COVER PHOTO BY SPENCER LOOKABAUGH
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OKTOBERFEST
MEAT IN THE MIDDLE
How one Peruvian sandwich shop is blending cultures with its eats
Your guide to Columbus Oktoberfest beer
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BACK TO BASICS
YES WE CAN
How one Westerville bakery makes the simplest, and arguably best, pumpkin pies in town
What you need to know to become a pro at preserving
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From the Editor PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Lindsay Press INTERIM EDITOR Sarah Sole
SARAH SOLE Interim Editor
Memories of time spent in the kitchen
DIGITAL EDITOR Jack McLaughlin CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Ally Schnaidt Spencer Lookabaugh Jen Brown
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
When I was little, my sister Julie and I would sometimes help my nana make her Wedding Soup—an Italian tradition brought out for the bigger holidays. We were tasked with making the meatballs. Sitting together at the kitchen table, we’d dip a finger into a water bowl and lightly wet the palm of our hands before rolling our meatballs. A stickler for form, my nana didn’t hesitate to make sure that the meatballs were petite. For our part, my sister and I were just excited to be part of the process. It felt special. Having the opportunity to prepare a traditional dish with your family can be an invaluable experience. It peels back the layers of time and gives you a peek into an older generation, and perhaps a glimpse at a far-off land. For the fall issue of Stock & Barrel, we devoted our cover section to heritage cooking—a scientific-sounding term that at its core refers to a form of cooking connected to a person’s specific heritage, background, and traditions. As diverse as Columbus’ food scene is, the pages of our magazine showcase just a small
sample of the wide range of cooking traditions that can be found here. We hope this small taste will give you the appetite to do some exploring of your own. While our cover section focuses on heritage cooking, elsewhere in the magazine, we made sure to feature fall. Look for our picks for Ohio-based Oktoberfest beer, as well as the go-to choice for the ultimate Columbus pumpkin pie. To prepare for that crisp autumn air, check out our recommendations for the best plant-based soups and stews. And if all this has you wanting to don your own apron, read up on how to try your hand at pickling and canning. Fall is full of the best eats and drinks. So whether you’re cooking a family recipe together with those you love or just enjoying a hearty, seasonal dish, we want you to make the most of the season.
Sarah Sole Jack Mclaughlin Melinda Green
Jaelani Turner-Williams CREATIVE DESIGNERS Emma Quinn Willem Kern Bryce Patterson VIDEO PRODUCER / EDITOR Austin Black DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Jayci Haase MARKETING COORDINATOR Justynne Pride ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nikki Harris ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Mindy Wilhite Travis Burson BRAND MANAGER, (614) LAGER Lizzy Saunders
"HAVING THE OPPORTUNITY TO PREPARE A TRADITIONAL DISH with your family can be an invaluable experience."
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OFFICE MANAGER Janae Brown
Created by
(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 | Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614now.com www.614now.com
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CALENDAR
There’s no better way to ring in the cool, crisp weather than by getting out and enjoying some of the city’s best fall events. Stick with us to see what not to miss, and keep an eye on 614now.com and our social media for even more places to go.
Creekside Hops & Vines October 2nd Location: Creekside Plaza
Columbus Italian Festival October 8-10 Location: St. John the Baptist Italian Catholic Church
Columbus Taco Fest October 9-10 Location: Goodale Park
Burger and Beer Week delivered by BBI Logistics October 4-9 614NOW.COM FALL 2021
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STAFF PICKS B y S to c k & B a r re l sta f f
Tasting Columbus One of the best parts of fall are the seasonal sweets. We asked our staff: What is your favorite fall dessert and why? See if your picks are below!
I can always pass on pie BUT if pumpkin roll is around, so am I.
Apple cider from the pumpkin patch and Cinnamon Streusel muffins!
Pumpkin Torte. It's four laborious layers of indescribable heaven.
Emma Quinn
Justynne Pride
Jayci Haase
Caramel apples. I love the variety they come in, but they’re also sort of like THE signal for me that fall has arrived—and it’s by far my favorite season.
My favorite fall dessert is Sweet Potato Pie because it is the epitome of comfort food and brings family together—well, at least mine!
Pecan Pie though! Grandma Burson used to make it over the holidays and it became my favorite.
Jack McLaughlin
Office Manager
Marketing Coordinator
Creative Designer
Digital Editor
Director of Marketing
Janae Brown
Travis Burson
Account Executive
Oreo Cheesecake!!
My favorite fall dessert is pumpkin pie. It’s a classic and reminds me of family.
A Pumpkin Cinnamon Roll Cake—it’s the perfect blend of all the classic fall flavors!
Nikki Harris
Lizzy Saunders
Willem Kern
Brand Manager, (614) Beer
Senior Account Executive
Creative Designer
PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING
↑ KitchenAid Mixer, available at Kitchenaid.com, come in a variety of colors. This is a great tool to have to help you with all of your fall baking needs.
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↑ Weighted Blankets, from many online retailers, are a great way to cozy up this fall and stay nice and warm. (Photo of Adijah Chunky Handmade Knitted Weighted Blanket)
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↑ Fall Candles, available at most retailers, adds a dash of fall to any room! Find your favorite scents for your home. (Photo courtesy of homesick.com)
↑ Ember Travel Mug, available on Ember.com, is great for the upcoming chilly months! Your drink will never go cold with this mug that keeps things at your desired temperature.
Press Play Did you know that (614) launched a new YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? It’s true. We’re expanding our ever-growing content to include video across our web and magazine stories. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, check out the newest videos on our channel: now playing...
Tasting Columbus Have you checked out our new TV show “Tasting Columbus?” Join OSU food scientist Matt Teegarden as he eats his way through Columbus’ food scene. Episodes drop the first of every month. Make sure to tune in at tastingcolumbus. com or scan the QR code here. →
On the Web
FishBurger ...“Somebody told me fried fish and hamburgers don’t go together,” he said with a laugh. But instead of letting this get to him, Keyes doubled down. And you should be glad he did, Columbus, because it paved the way for FishBurger. Scan the QR code here. →
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WHAT 'S YOUR RECIPE? Harvest Chopped Salad EMMA QUINN
Creative Designer Creative Designer Emma Quinn shares her recipe for a fall-filled dish: Harvest Chopped Salad YUM SCALE
I love making this in the fall, whether it’s just for a good dinner or in a large batch for my family at Thanksgiving!
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ INGREDIENTS ½ cup brussels sprouts (finely chopped)
Dressing Ingredients 2 tbsp. olive oil
½ cup kale (finely chopped)
½ tbsp. apple cider vinegar
grilled chicken breast
½ lemon (squeezed)
½ sweet potato
salt and pepper
½ tbsp. red onion (finely chopped) 1/4 cup of a large honeycrisp apple (diced) 1/8 cup of avocado (or to taste) 2 tbsp. crispy beets goat cheese to taste,
because I love goat cheese and would probably put more that the average person :)
INSTRUCTIONS 1 Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. 2 Clean, peel, and dice your sweet potato. 3 Coat in olive oil, salt, pepper, and
"Everything but the Bagel" seasoning. 4 Bake for 10-15 minutes (or until it
begins to get crispy). 5 Season and grill your chicken. 6 Chop your kale and massage in olive oil
and lemon juice.
8 Dice your honeycrisp apple, toss in with
your greens. 9 Chop your red onion and mix in the
bowl. 10 Cut your cooked chicken and toss in
with the cooked sweet potato. 11 Toss everything in a bowl and top with
goat cheese, crispy beets, and cut avocado. Mix your dressing and dress to taste!
7 Chop your brussels sprouts, then mix in
bowl with kale.
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#EAT614 It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.
@ryeriversocial
@lemonsharkpokecbus
@dirtyfranksdogs
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@brekkieshack
@gmichaelsbistro
@archcitytavern
@shakenoeight
@pintroomdublin
@buckeye_bourbon_house
@galloskitchenandbar
@henquarterdublin
@mezzodublin
@bristolrepublic
@ the.mochi.shop
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Your guide to Columbus Oktoberfest beer By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Spencer Lookabaugh
"...it's time to grab your favorite stein, hike up the lederhosen, and set out the bratwurst..." If you’ve been to a grocery store any time in the last decade or so, you probably know that craft beer is a seasonal enterprise. And while a crisp spring saison or a dark and complex winter stout might come to mind, likely the most iconic of the craft beer seasonals is the Oktoberfest. The style—an amber-colored lager that retains a lighter body despite its solid malt backbone—is also referred to as märzen or festbier. So even though the real Oktoberfest celebration is traditionally held in September, it’s time to grab your favorite stein, hike up the lederhosen, and set out the bratwurst, because we’ve put together a list of some of the local Oktoberfest beer you need to try this fall.
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LAND-GRANT, LAWN RAKER (6% ABV) With a hint of grassy hops and a complex malty sweetness, this one hit all the notes. The deep caramel-colored brew also boasts one of the fullest and most satisfying bodies on this list, perfect for sipping on a crisp fall evening.
GREAT LAKES, OKTOBERFEST (6.5% ABV) While a robust malt profile is apparent after just a sip, what sets this beer apart is something the style isn’t normally known for: hops. While it’s not an IPA-worthy punch of bitterness, the slight bite from the addition of noble hops rounds this lager out perfectly.
COLUMBUS BREWING, FESTBIER (5.3% ABV) Just like the brewery behind this classic fall release, Columbus Brewing’s take on the festbier is a safe bet for something reliably good. This is one of the most carefully-balanced brews on our list, with a slight hop presence that’s offset by a clean malt body reminiscent of freshly-baked bread.
NORTH HIGH, NORDEN HOCH (5.4% ABV) Just like some drinkers will prefer a fuller, more robust Oktoberfest, others will opt for an easier-drinking beer. This is a brew for the latter group, as this North High creation manages to remain on the lighter side while still featuring all the flavors you’d expect from the style.
WOLF'S RIDGE, SEPTEMBER FEST (5.6% ABV) If it’s a full, rich sweetness you’re craving in your festbier, this is the one for you. Classified as a “wiesn festbier” by the brewery, the beer drinks crisp and clean even with complex layers of sweet and bready malt goodness.
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← Columbus Brewing's Festbier
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
(614) PIZZA TRAIL
EASTON
FRANKLINTON
4205 WEAVERTON LN.
www.yellowbrickpizza.com
7227 N. HIGH ST.
415 W. RICH ST. / (614) 372-5983
WORTHINGTON
www.piesandpints.net
BEXLEY
2376 E. MAIN ST.
BREWERY DISTRICT 940 S. FRONT ST.
45 N. HIGH ST.
pickup • curbside • delivery Available at MACKENZIERIVERPIZZA.COM or within our RIVER REWARDS™ app
www.harvestpizzeria.com
Visit our locations in Polaris & Pickerington
CLINTONVILLE 2285 N. HIGH ST.
DUBLIN
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TREAT
Why Vietnamese coffee might be your new favorite fall drink. → By Jack McLaughlin Photos by Ally Schnaidt ↑ Lisa Bui, co-owner of 6-1-PHO
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↓ Coffee gradient
T
here’s a new caffeine-laden trend sweeping up Columbus, and it’s just begging to meet the cooler weather headed our way. Vietnamese iced coffee, or cà phê đá as it’s traditionally known, continues its quiet surge in popularity, and for good reason. To be clear, the drink isn’t just a regional blend of beans. It combines a strong, roast-heavy coffee with a rich and decadent serving of sweetened condensed milk. “You end up with this thick but silky texture that’s great,” said Lisa Bui, who owns and operates the Clintonville Vietnamese hotspot 6-1-Pho with her husband Ian Capotosta. According to Bui, the condensed milk does more than just create a pleasant texture for the beverage: It perfectly balances the strong, dark coffee.
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“Although I think you could combine anything with condensed milk and it would balance it out,” she said with a laugh. While a handful of Columbus spots serve up fantastic examples of the drink, many local Vietnamese coffee enthusiasts will agree that 6-1Pho is among the best of the bunch. While Vietnamese coffee beans and brands are often used to create the drink (imagine that), 6-1Pho opts for the iconic New Orleans brand Café Du Monde instead. “What a lot of people like about Vietnamese coffee is the dark roast and strong chicory-like flavor,” said Bui. “And Café Du Monde actually has chicory in it.” When the Clintonville eatery first started serving
their coffee, Bui opted to use a traditional Vietnamese filter known as a phin. But just like their choice of beans, this too was modernized. The restaurant now brews their coffee using a french press. “When you’re making multiple drinks at once, it’s just too time-consuming,” Bui said. “You can’t have customers waiting 20 minutes for a coffee.” And while some purists might be up in arms about these breaks from tradition, there’s something to be said about the way food allows two cultures to come together and create something that’s totally unique.
↑ Measuring coffee grinds
↑ Pour-over process
♦ To learn more, visit 61pho.com
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How one Peruvian sandwich shop is blending cultures with its eats By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Jen Brown
When Guillermo Perez first opened his popular sandwich shop in March of 2010, he was hedging his bets. Perez knew his food would convert Columbusites. There was never any question about that. The problem, he thought, would be getting them to try it. “Today, our name is Sí, Señor Peruvian Sandwiches. But when we first opened, I left out the Peruvian part,” Perez said. “We were afraid people wouldn’t know what to make of it; that they might not like it.” It didn’t take long, however, for him to realize that his fears were unwarranted. “After a while, customers started asking me why I wasn’t just calling it a Peruvian restaurant. That was actually part of what they liked about it,” he said. And speaking of things his customers like, Sí Señor’s Chicharron Peruano Sandwich has remained one of their most popular items for a decade. Made from scratch, it features fried pork shoulder, pickled red onions (also called salsa criolla), and sweet potato mayo. “It’s strange how things work,” Perez said. “This was one of the more Peruvian sandwiches, and I was afraid it wasn’t going to sell at first.” Diners often also reach for the Pork and Pork Sandwich, which contains pork loin topped with Mexican chorizo, provolone, avocado, tomato, lettuce, and cilantro mayo.
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"...many of his recipes are based on traditional Peruvian ones: They're things he grew up eating."
↑ Perez, Owner, holding his Jumping Beef Sandwich
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Perez, who was born in Peru, is a restaurant veteran, having worked in nearly every position imaginable across a litany of Columbus eateries. But it wasn’t until meeting his wife, Christell Gózzer— who is also Peruvian—that he considered serving cuisine from his native country. Referring to his sandwiches as a type of Peruvian street food, Perez noted that many of his recipes are based on traditional Peruvian ones: They’re things he grew up eating. While Perez offers his guests a taste of his childhood, he also features standard American sandwiches delivered with a bit of Latin flair, such as the Latin Style Turkey Breast Club—with turkey, bacon, lettuce, tomato, jalapenos, provolone, and avocado mayo. Despite the diversity of sandwiches on tap, visitors should be advised to save some room for dessert: Sí Señor’s award-winning Tres Leches Cake was recognized as the best in Ohio by Yelp last year. “The recipe for it came from the Internet, actually,” Perez said with a laugh. “My wife isn’t a cook herself, but she learned how to make it. She tried about 20 different ones until we found the best one and perfected it.” To learn more, visit sisenorcolumbus.com
↓ Chicharron Sandwich
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↑ Perez and his
Tres Leches Cake
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↑ Portia's Cafe
Five vegan spots for hearty soups and stews By Jaelani Turner-Williams / Photos by Jen Brown
Just because the summer has ended doesn’t mean there isn’t still time to make a splash—into a warm bowl of soup or stew, that is. An overlooked and highly underrated part of a dining experience, an appetizer portion of soups or stews can be a comforting introduction to any menu. While patrons tend to opt for traditional choices like minestrone, French onion soup, and the all-time classic chicken noodle soup, they should also consider dipping their spoons into plant-based options that can be found in vegan-centric eateries around Columbus. Join us as we look into five vegan spots with wholesome, hearty soups and stews for all.
Willowbeez Soulveg Now a part of the North Market Downtown lineup, vegan soul food delight Willowbeez Soulveg features a rotation of soups, including longtime favorites Umi’s Butter Bean and Kale Soup along with Left Eye Soul Chili Soup. With a generous helping of butter beans, red onion, roma tomatoes, kale, and a decadent spice of paprika and liquid smoke, Umi’s Butter Bean and Kale Soup pairs perfectly with the vendor’s signature cornbread or Soul Power Roll.
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Portia’s Cafe and Portia’s Diner Arguably the mother of Columbus vegan dining hubs, Portia’s Cafe is known for its satisfying brunch choices with organic and gluten-free staples. The cafe and Clintonville spinoff Portia’s Diner also offer savory favorites in soup form. At Portia’s Cafe, try the Green Bean Curry, Red Lentil Soup, Raw Broccoli Soup, or Vegetable Curry Soup—a curried blend of black beans, brown rice, veggies, and a tropical hint of coconut paired with a gluten-free Cheeze Quesadilla. You can also dig into the Harvest Chili Soup at Portia’s Diner, perfect for fall with ample butternut squash, onions, cooked beans, bok choy, and tangy chili spices.
↓ Portia's Cafe ↓ Portia's Cafe
↑ Woodhouse Vegan
Woodhouse Vegan Short North spot Woodhouse Vegan constantly rearranges their niche menu, but they’re sure to return their Cream of Mushroom Soup—a suitable offering with their Texas Triple Cheese Grilled Cheese Sandwich—by autumn. With a cozy mix of shitake, crimini, and oyster mushrooms with roasted garlic, caramelized garden herbs, fresh cracked pepper, and roasted garlic, the soup is both soy-free and gluten-free for foodies with dietary restrictions.
"Just because the summer has ended doesn't mean there isn't still time to make a splash — into a warm bowl of soup or stew, that is."
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Nile Vegan The one-stop shop for Ethiopian comfort food on campus’ offbeat path, a sustainable part of the Nile Vegan menu is vegan stews served with a bed of traditional injera. You can choose from Mushroom Stew, Lentils, or Chickpea Sauce with Stewed Kale—both colorful and healthful in vegetables and spiced nutrients. For a crispy addition, grab air-fried sambusas filled with garlic lentils.
↑ Nile Vegan
Lifestyle Cafe As Olde Town East’s premier cozy restaurant with weekend brunch entrees like Chicken N Waffles, Taco Toast, and BLT Wrap, Columbus’ newest addition to plant-based fanfare, Lifestyle Cafe, has certainly started off on a roll. Customers can snag a handheld bowl of chili in the Chili Pocket, a smoky wrap with Lifestyle chili, roasted tomato flour tortilla, vegan gouda, pico, and green onions. For a traditional bowl, grab the menu's three bean chili topped with creamy avocado, served with house-fried tortilla chips, or alternate chips with a sweet Gourmet Grilled Cheese.
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gourmet gambit How going vegan inspired one woman to start her own confectionary business. By Jaelani Turner-Williams Photos by Jen Brown
↑ Jonna Owens, Founder of Berry Vegan Delights
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↑ Decorated strawberries
C
ulinary experience wasn’t something Berry Vegan Delights founder Jonna Owens had prior to establishing her artisan business. Instead, the vegan chocolatier and confectionary artist credits her indulgent supporters and “Godgiven talent” for starting Berry Vegan Delights in January 2018. The impetus for her business came when Owens began experimenting with her own homemade recipes for chocolate covered strawberries after an unsuccessful search for local shops that sold the dairy-free treats. →
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↓ Jonna Owens showers the strawberry in sprinkles
↑ The vegan cookies
“To my surprise, I was pretty good at it. I started giving samples out to my family and friends— they loved them,” Owens said. “Word of mouth quickly began to spread, and I started receiving order requests for my chocolate covered strawberries at weddings, baby showers, and birthday parties. After about a month of success, I registered my business, and it’s
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been such a great passion ever since.” While the Berry Vegan Delights menu offers decadent gourmet fruits from classy (Berry Elegant, Signature Berry White) to crafty (Speciality Berry Ladybug, Speciality Berry Sundae), Owens plans to introduce holiday-themed treats, including “Boo Berries” during Halloween. The menu isn’t
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limited to just strawberries either— Owens features apple slices, pretzels, homemade cookies, and breakable hearts in her one-of-akind chocolate concoctions. Throughout the course of her work, Owens has had the opportunity to meet a community of self-starters. “In just three short years, I’ve met so many talented Black-
owned vegan business owners, and honestly I’m honored to be amongst such an amazing network of people,” she said. “Vegan organizations like Caring Veg Community [have] done great work.” Owens works hard to make her sweets accessible to vegans and non-vegans alike, offering free delivery services to limited areas and shipping from her local commercial kitchen space. And the foundation for her decadent creations is her approach to the overall vegan lifestyle. “Veganism doesn’t have to be bland and boring—it’s actually a very tasty lifestyle,” Owens said.♦
To learn more, visit berryvegandelights.com
"
To my surprise, I was pretty good at it. I started giving samples out to my family and friends— they loved them...
"
Fabulous strawberries →
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↓ Janvier Ward's jambalaya Photo Courtesy of Spencer Lookabaugh
er v O
Generations How recipes and traditions preserved through time spice up our food scene. By Sarah Sole
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ne of the biggest ways the cultural diversity here in the Columbus area is evident is in the food. In this cover section, we’re celebrating all the ways that heritage cooking—the cooking associated with a person’s heritage, background, and traditions—enriches our cuisine scene. We started by talking with OSU anthropology professor Dr. Jeff Cohen about the term from a scientific and cultural perspective. Then we looked to our community: We talked to Columbus cooks about how their heritage shapes their menus. Some even drew inspiration from blending traditions from different cultures, creating exciting new takes on classics that are all their own. As you read about some of the ways in which heritage cooking can be found in our city, I hope it encourages you to go out and try a new eatery or dish here that offers a taste of a different culture and a sample of recipes passed down over generations. You might learn something new, and your tastebuds will thank you for the adventure. → 614NOW.COM FALL 2021
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↓ Gale Troy, Owner of What the Waffle, and daughter Ray
Flavors of family Defining heritage cooking and its far-reaching influence. By Sarah Sole Photos by Ally Schnaidt
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↑T he f in
a l pr oduct
of Troy's shrim
p and grits
From childhood, Columbus eatery owner Gayle Troy had an interest in cooking. From sit-down meals with her large family in Columbus, to smoking meats and canning vegetables during summers spent with relatives in North Carolina, Troy learned how to take whatever food they had available and improve upon it. The traditions she learned, especially from her father and grandmother, taught her the importance of time, passion, and fresh, quality ingredients. It is a legacy she continues at What the Waffle, where meals are made fresh to order. “I’m very passionate about the meals that I prepare, and I take my time with them,” Troy said. When Troy thinks of heritage cooking, she thinks about her childhood memories. But the term can mean a variety of things, said Dr. Jeff Cohen, Department of Anthropology professor at OSU. From an anthropological perspective, heritage cooking generally refers to a form of cooking connected to a person’s specific heritage—their background, their traditions. The term can be used in relation to cooking and food production, as well social, cultural, and religious identities. “There’s a lot of different ways to use it,” Cohen said. Sometimes, heritage cooking can be used to create a particular market for food. In Oaxaca, for example—a state in southern Mexico—Cohen has worked with a native population, the Zapotec, for several years. Here they have a food tradition, or heritage, of cooking and eating grasshoppers, called chapuline. → 614NOW.COM FALL 2021
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↓ Gale Troy and daughter Ray perfect their dish
Although many who live in the area now associate the food with something their grandparents ate, chapuline now has become an attractive food for tourists. “They’re actually incredibly delicious,” Cohen said. Heritage cooking can become a bit confusing, though, when the traditions associated with particular foods get a bit blurry. Take, for example, Tacos al Pastor, which Troy said are linked to Middle Eastern food traditions. “It’s where heritage cooking becomes really complicated,” he said. Heritage cooking can be a way people think about their past, but it can also sometimes be limiting. Cohen said he works with many Mexicans who settled here in Columbus. “They feel as if, you know, they have to make tacos,” he said. “That’s kind of the other side of heritage cooking where it becomes kind of problematic.” While heritage cooking can become constricting for those wanting to break out of traditions associated with their culture or ethnicity, Columbus’ dynamic population has created a rich cuisine scene, so much so that Cohen said one could eat something different here almost every day of the week. “To watch the explosion of food that has taken place in Columbus,” he said. “It makes it such a wonderful destination.” What the Waffle owner Troy has contributed to that growth. Her concept had its start in 2017 in a shared space in Olde Towne East and since Aug. 1, 2020 has had a home in the King-Lincoln District. And while the eatery serves up a variety of scrumptious eats, it also functions as a social enterprise: Troy hires and trains young ladies who are aging out of the foster care system to work at What the Waffle, a practice she said was inspired in part by her grandmother. “She would always say, ‘I may not be able to assist you financially, but I will always have a meal for you.’ That’s part of the legacy that I continue today with What the Waffle.” →
To learn more, visit whatthewaffle.org
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"I AM VERY
passionate ABOUT
THE MEALS THAT I PREPARE,
and I take my time with them..."
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↓ Janvier Ward, Owner of Creole 2 Geaux, with her mother Michelle Ohakim (left)
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Recipes How heritage cooking adds to the colorful tapestry that is the Columbus restaurant scene. By Jack McLaughlin Photos by Spencer Lookabaugh
For as long as she can remember, Janvier Ward has dreamt of New Orleans. She’s a midwest native—a world away from the Big Easy—but the city has always seemed to be encoded into her DNA. While Ward travels there as often as she can, the local chef and owner of popular NOLA-inspired eatery Creole 2 Geaux has found a way to get back to Louisiana whenever she wants: with her food. In her restaurant, which is coming to the city’s new East Market when it opens later this year, Ward relies almost entirely on family recipes from her kin in New Orleans. “That’s the connection I have to my grandmother, to so much of my family,” she said. “Whenever I cook for them, they always tell me how much it tastes like home.” Ward is just one example of how heritage cooking is a mainstay in the Columbus restaurant scene. The traditional recipes can help connect diners with a chef’s cultural and even personal history. While Ward’s cooking is heavily influenced by her Louisiana heritage, Brian Jamandre is introducing his patrons to Filipino standards he knew as a child.→
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↓ Uncle Giant's farmers market setup
Jamandre is co-owner of Newark-based bakery Uncle Giant. His signature item is known as tokel, a riff on the traditional Spanish shortbread polvoron that is rampantly popular in the Philippines today. “We were surprised by the reception we got; we weren’t expecting [the tokel] to be as popular as it is,” Jamandre said. “I’m recreating some of the food I grew up with, and seeing people accepting those flavors, it’s a really meaningful thing.” Here in Columbus, one cultural organization is working to introduce residents to menu items crafted from daily recipes and even personal exchanges with other native groups across the country. →
↑ Brian Jamandre, Co-Owner of Uncle Giant
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Via food truck, the Native American Indian Center of Central Ohio (NAICCO) sells fry bread, buffalo burgers, savory NAICCO Pockets, and more. But it’s the truck’s origins that make it such a unique story. According to Project Director Ty Smith, a consensus was reached among NAICCO members that it needed some sort of long-term sustainability plan. The food truck was created out of that need, generating funds that ensure NAICCO is stable for the long haul. In this way, it represents—and is backed by—not just one or two singular owners, but an entire community. “It not only serves as a vehicle for ensuring the sustainability of NAICCO and all the important cultural preservation/restoration and community development programming we offer, but it also allows us to bring our own into the fold along the way; so, they too are able to take on that same sense of pride,” said Smith. “They are not only learning the pathways of our Peoples’ foods, but they [are] also helping ensure the future of our home, NAICCO, and all the important mission work our agency is about.”→
"they are not only learning the pathways of our
Peoples'
Food, but they
[are] also helping ensure the future of our home..." ↑ Ty Smith, Project Director
↓ NAICCO's fry bread with butter and wojapi (berry sauce)
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Ever -
changing
↑ Fayrus "Fay" Abdi, Owner of Fay's Crepes
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y's str awberr y crepe
How time and experimentation gives way to new takes on old traditions. By Jack McLaughlin Photos by Spencer Lookabaugh
Crepes were always part of Fayrus “Fay” Abdi’s life. The thin, sweet pancakes are wildly popular in Sweden, where she grew up. And they were featured heavily in her Somali family’s dishes as well, since the food is also a staple in that country. Abdi later launched her very own crepe-focused spot, aptly titled Fay’s Crepes. First opened in 2019 at Polaris Fashion Place, the eatery recently moved to Easton last month. In creating her business, Abdi took the traditions she was exposed to as a kid and blended them, melding both Swedish and Somali crepe styles. “Swedish crepes are very thin; Somali crepes are thicker,” Abdi said. “I didn’t have a solid recipe at the time, so I combined them. I mixed my mother’s recipe for Somali crepes with the one for Swedish crepes I was taught.” This is often the reality of heritage recipes in today’s global world: They change. And in Columbus’ rich and diverse food scene, chefs often combine different cultural traditions and styles to create something totally original. → 614NOW.COM FALL 2021
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↓ Maggie Ailabouni, Owner and chef of Mazah Mediterranean Eatery
"they are the perfect
marriage.
they bridge the gap between two different types of food:
Two different cultures." → Bac Nguyen, Owner of Ninja City on his bao
According to Columbus chef and owner of Mazah Mediterranean Eatery Maggie Ailabouni, this can often occur even if it’s unintentional. “My grandmother was from Nazareth, and I learned so many of the recipes I use today from her,” she said. “But I know a few things here and there are always different, even if you’re trying to recreate them exactly. It’s naturally how things happen.” But according to Abdi, this doesn’t detract from the transformative power she believes food holds. “Sometimes it doesn’t matter what it is. Whenever you share your cooking with anyone, even strangers, you’re sharing your culture, you're sharing yourself.” ↑O
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azah's d ishes
↑ Bac Nguyen, Owner of Ninja City
At Ninja City, a Cleveland-based restaurant that recently opened a ghost kitchen here in Columbus, Vietnam native Bac Nguyen shares his love for both Vietnamese and American cooking. Food was a central part of Nguyen’s life from a young age—his family opened a Vietnamese restaurant here in the U.S. In his youth, Nguyen always found himself trying to balance the food he grew up with alongside his love for American culture and cuisine. “I remember growing up and being fascinated with American food,” he said. “I also remember being ashamed of the Asian lunches I would take to school.” With the Ninja City concept, Nguyen was able to pay homage to both types of food. The restaurant is formally referred to as an Asian fusion spot, but it’s known first and foremost for one thing: bao, a traditional chinese steamed bun filled with a variety of foods. “That’s the thing about bao, you can put anything you want into them. We have cheeseburger bao, fried chicken bao,” Nguyen said. “They’re the perfect marriage. They bridge the gap between two different types of food: Two different cultures.” ♦
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How one Westerville bakery makes the simplest, and arguably best, pumpkin pies in town By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Ally Schnaidt
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← Sterk's famous Pumpkin Pie
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A slice of heaven →
When Peter Sterk was just a teenager, he started baking pies. And at the time, it wasn't even necessarily by choice. “My parents ran a pizza shop, and they needed someone to bake,” he said. “So I took over making pies; that’s how I got into it.” It’s clear something about the vocation resonated with him, because Sterk has been slinging the indulgent desserts under the name Just Pies since the late 1970s. Now that fall is upon us, discussing pie is more important than ever—pumpkin pie, specifically. Depending on who you ask, Sterk—who by his own calculation has been making the style for over 40 years—creates some of the best pumpkin pie in all of Columbus. But what exactly makes the Westerville legend’s pumpkin pie so great? You can credit some of it to the fact that Just Pies creates everything from scratch and doesn’t flinch on sourcing only high-quality ingredients, of course. But if you ask Sterk, there’s a bit more to it than that. In fact, it’s actually something that the company doesn’t do that makes their pumpkin pies stand out. “I don’t use a lot of spices. My pies don’t have
mace or ginger; you’re really just tasting pumpkin and cinnamon,” he said. “What happens a lot of the time, when you use too much, you mask the taste of the other ingredients.” His no-nonsense method of baking leaves Sterk with nothing to hide behind. “It means we have to use the best ingredients, but that’s something we do anyway,” he said. In fact, the only items Sterk does use in his pumpkin pie fillings are pumpkin, eggs, cream, and spice. Because of this, though, the bakery doesnt not recommend freezing their pumpkin pies. That’s a small price to pay for top-tier pie, if you ask us. But if you are feeling a bit more adventurous, the longtime local pie shop does actually offer up an interesting variation on the autumnal classic. Their pumpkin cream cheese pie—which incorporates beautiful beige marbling into the iconic bronze filling—updates the traditional flavor with a rich, almost savory twist. Now your only problem when Thanksgiving rolls around this year—other than Uncle John discussing politics at the table—is which of Sterk’s pies you’re going to pick.♦ To learn more, visit just-pies.com
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↓ Just Pies Owner Peter Sterk
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e w s e Y
N A C What you need to know to become a pro at preserving. By Melinda Green
Photos by Ally Schnaidt
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← Peaches that were picked to start the pickling and canning process
Summer has drawn to a close, and you find yourself with piles of ripe fruit, or a freezer full of tomato puree you swore you would make into sauce…eventually. Could you, a non-foodie, learn to can your surplus? In a word, yes. To perfect our preserving skills, we talked to expert Lori Seeger of Westgate, who produces up to 12 dozen jars of jam a year and competes in Ohio State Fair canning competitions.→
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pickling
l
The open-kettle (or water-bath) canning method is easy for beginners: Sterilize your equipment in boiling water while you heat the food to boiling. Drain the jars of water and put the hot food in the jars. After putting the lids on the filled jars, boil them again to kill any lurking pathogens. It’s an ideal method for acidic foods like tomatoes, jams, jellies, and fruits. “The thing with canning jams is, it doesn’t have to be perfect fruit, because you’re going to cut it up and mash it into oblivion anyways,” Seeger said. “So you can buy a batch of seconds. But you have to use them immediately, because some of them will have bruises.” After decades of experience, Seeger experiments with flavor combinations, but she still recommends novices stick to established, tested recipes and avoid sugar substitutes. “Sugar is a preservative,” she explained. “It’s also part of what makes things gel.” If you need to reduce your sugar intake, look for low-sugar recipes and follow them exactly. 66
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↑ Peach jam that was created from the process
Pickling, essentially, is controlled, anaerobic fermentation, again not out of reach for the beginner but not as easy as other preserving methods. “The thing you have to watch out for is bacteria. You cannot be sloppy,” Seeger explained. For safety, you’ll want your prep and cooking areas, and equipment, to be impeccably clean. The other critical factor is timing. A mixture may need to be held at a rolling boil for exactly one minute, then taken off the heat. You’ll want to read the instructions and recipe carefully in advance, and turn off auto-sleep on your phone, so you aren’t scrambling to unlock and see the next step. Whether you’re pickling or canning, the game is the same: It’s all about giving Future You the chance to create some incredibly tasty meals. ♦
"THE THING WITH canning JAMS IS, it doesn’t have to be perfect fruit..."
You’ll need canning jars, available at most groceries, a wide-mouth “canning” funnel to keep your sterilized jars clean, canning tongs that make it easy to pluck hot jars from boiling water, and a rack to keep the jars off of the bottom of the pot. The rest of the items—a large, deep pot, a ladle, clean towels, and heat-proof mitts—can be purchased easily if you don’t already have them at home. Thick foods (like pureed squash and meat) and non-acidic foods (like most vegetables and beans) need to be canned in a pressure canner to ensure food safety. This adds extra levels of complexity and equipment expense—and no, you can’t use your Instant Pot. It’s not out of reach for the novice home cook, but it definitely requires more attention to detail. 614NOW.COM
↑ Lori Seeger harvesting peaches
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