3 minute read
A Speck In The Pan
Star Columbus chef Josh Dalton showcases culinary skill, restless creativity at the highly-anticipated Downtown home of Speck Italian Eatery
By Jim Fischer, Photos by Jen Brown
Story Design By Atlas Biro
Inside Speck Italian Eatery
Josh Dalton isn’t trying to compete with your Italian grandmother.
That was never Dalton’s intention with Speck Italian Eatery, either in its original iteration in Delaware (a space Dalton considers his “culinary incubator”) or in its recently-reopened and relocated space in Downtown Columbus.
The standout Columbus chef, who also gave us Veritas, the elevated smallplates-and-cocktails restaurant on Gay Street Downtown (Veritas also incubated in Delaware – Dalton is currently operating Cove, A Seafood Joint there) simply believed there was an opportunity to offer a fresh take on a familiar style.
“American-Italian has been done and done well but it’s been done the same,” Dalton said in an interview inside Speck. “This is my interpretation of Italian (dining). I wanted super bright colors and fun flavors, simply done with good ingredients, finished off with some nice olive oil, nice cheeses.
“With anything I’m cooking, it’s what I like to eat, plus I like to get a little creative,” he said.
None of which is to say the Speck menu eschews pastas and sauces – pomodoro, sausage, crab and vegetarian options all get innovative treatment. Dishes featuring chicken and shellfish and a variety of salads, starters and desserts can be found on the Speck menu, with some offerings specific to lunch or dinner.
Diners should expect and evolving menu at Speck, in part as a response to changing seasons, and in part due to Dalton's restlessness.
"We're already doing different things here than we did in Delaware, in response to the capabilities of the kitchen and a mostly-new staff," Dalton said. "But that's going to continue. I hope to always be evolving."
"There are no rules here to follow, except ‘Is it delicious?’ and ‘Are we proud to serve it?’ I want our guests to leave here, after an hour-and-a-half or two hours, having their minds taken off their day-today and feeling ecstatic about their food experience,” Dalton said.
Dalton maintains a presence in his kitchen despite having the added responsibilities that come with ownership. That presence, he said, is for his staff, so they can learn how he cooks and what his expectations are, but also for himself.
“My entire life revolves around restaurants, around eating and drinking,” Dalton said. “The things I love in life are what I do.”
And there’s still more to come from Dalton, who at press time was close to opening a French bistro concept in the former Cafe Brioso location on Gay Street. The chef, who recently turned 40, said he doesn’t intend to stop there.
“I have more ideas, more concepts, than I have staffing or funding for,” he said. “But it’s time to make some things happen.”
Sounds like Dalton plans to keep himself busy, at least until he’s your Italian grandmother’s age.
To learn more, visit speckrestaurant.com
