24 Eat. Drink. (614).
AU D D I N O ' S Italian B a ke r y
DING HO C a n to n e s e Cuisine
H O G GY ' S Restaurant a n d C a te r i n g
TAT R i s to r a n te D i Fa m i g l i a
THURN'S Specialty Meats
Spring 2020
BIG PICTURE Caution—chef at work! Read more about Ding Ho Cantonese Restaurant on page 70. PHOTO BY BRIAN KAISER
NO ALCOHOL, NO PROBLEMS 14
The Hills Market sets its eyes on the growing trend of zero-proof cocktails.
MANOS GOES NANO 18
Columbus' own Nick Manos of BrewDog is busy creating the next line of nanobrews.
HOPPING AROUND 22
Three breweries, one night, one neighborhood—this is Brew Hop.
JUST A SIP 30
Somewhere In Particular is pouring up drinks in two locations.
RIGHT ON TRACK 56
The Beeline pays homage to Ohio's once used railways.
COLUMBUS, BUT MAKE IT A SANDWICH 60
What would a purely Columbus-based sandwich look like? Staff Writer Mike Thomas is on the case.
FAMILY TIES 62
An in-depth look at multigenerational-familyowned establishments in Columbus.
CHEESE PLEASE 36
Lead Designer Sarah Moore shares her Beer Cheese Soup recipe.
DUMPLINGS DONE RIGHT 46
Feasting on delicious soup dumplings is easy at these three spots.
THE BIRDS AND THE WILLOWBEEZ 52
Load up on plant-based soul food at this new pop-up.
FOODWIRE 96
A quick look at recent openings and rumblings since the last Stock & Barrel.
COVER PHOTO BY BRIAN KAISER, DESIGN BY JUSTIN REMOTAP ON THE COVER: Spaghetti and meatballs from TAT Ristorante Di Famiglia
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CONTENTS
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PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis
What’s your family’s signature dish? Think about it for a second. I’ll wait. I’m guessing it’s come to you already; the smell that would waft through the house as it was being prepared; the experience you had in the kitchen trying to learn the recipe from the family members who seemed to know it by heart; the conversations you had with relatives as you ate it; the comfort it brought. The familiar, timeless flavor. In our house, the dish was called eggs fantastic, and, incredibly, it met the high expectations its lofty title set. (The fact that we ate it every Christmas morning likely contributed to our love for the cheesy, spicy, sausage-stuffed casserole.) As we get older, we might start to associate signature dishes with certain restaurants—especially if we’re lucky enough to earn the term “regular”—or get more excited about eating out with friends than staying in with family. But no matter how much we enjoy sampling a chef’s newest creations, we can usually trace our love of food back to home. Of course, some families have more of those signature recipes than others. And some don’t just eat them over the holidays; they dish them out yearround. In fact, they have enough of those dishes to fill a menu, and enough stamina to crank them out night after night, week after week, year after year. And the effort they put into their cooking? It’s more than just getting grandma’s recipe right; it’s business. This spring, Stock & Barrel is looking at familyowned restaurants and food purveyors that have served the city for generations. These places aren’t just mom and pop; many are grandma and grandpa too, with children literally raised within their walls. Family is complicated, business is difficult, and when you put them together there’s bound to be some struggles that ensue. But there’s also a sense of timeliness and consistency that comes from family restaurants that redefine the concept of “home cooking” to include the whole neighborhood. As diners, we pick up on it everytime we’re welcomed to one of their tables with a warm smile. The stories in our Family Ties cover package show that even though there are difficulties built into family businesses, there’s also a tremendous sense of pride that comes from carrying on a legacy. In a culture of constant change where the “new things” get most of the attention, this issue was a welcome opportunity for us to revisit the classics. Across the stories in Family Ties, you’ll find common threads: visionary elders taking a risk—many bringing lesser-known cuisines from their homeland to the region—and subsequent generations adapting their concept for current times. Striking the right balance between not messing with success and stubbornly refusing to adapt to changing tastes is a tricky one. Being able to find that line has kept these establishments in business for as long as they have been.
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EDITOR IN CHIEF Linda Lee Baird ASSISTANT EDITOR Mitch Hooper PHOTO EDITOR Brian Kaiser 614NOW EDITOR Regina Fox STAFF WRITER Mike Thomas CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Rebecca Tien, Wyze, Olivia K. James Kyle Tracey, SENIOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS J.R. McMillan, Jaelani Turner-Williams
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Melinda Green, Melissa Braithwaite
PHOTO BY B R IA N KA ISER
Beyond that, of course, these restaurants are built on trust. Trust from the younger generations that classic cuisine will resonate with modern audiences. Trust from the older generations that updating the approach—whether to the menu, interior design, or advertising—will bring in new clientele. Trust across the board that occasional tweaks can improve the longterm recipe for success. In addition to discussing these timeless institutions, we’ve also included some newer bars and restaurants whose owners may have learned a thing or two from visiting these city landmarks as children. We’re talking to a new outpost at Easton—an area that wasn’t even on the radar when most of these family businesses were founded—and profiling a contemporary family-owned restaurant that serves pop-up vegan cuisine. Plus, we celebrate a quarter-century of pastries and classic European cuisine at Mozart’s—a restaurant that seems destined for inclusion next time we look at multi-generational dining establishments. We’ve also mapped out a “brew hop” for a true taste of Columbus’ finest suds, and chatted with folks at both BrewDog and Somewhere In Particular about the funky and creative flavors they’re crafting this spring. And if you’re feeling low-key about the alcohol intake, the new zero proof happy hour might be right for you. Finally, if you’re looking for a new family signature dish, we’ve included the winning recipe from 614 Media Group’s annual souperbowl, a guaranteed crowd-pleaser on a cold day. Happy spring, Stock & Barrel readers. Drop us a line and tell us what you’ve got cooking.
John McLaughlin
COPY EDITOR Dan Sponseller LEAD DESIGNER Sarah Moore CREATIVE DESIGNERS Justin Remotap, Hugo Albornoz, Imana Onipe, Paul Barton ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Derek Landers ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nikki Harris, Mindy Wilhite DIGITAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Lori Brittenham VIDEO PRODUCER John Thorne VP OF SALES AND MARKETING Lindsay Press
Cheers, (614) MAGAZINE 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215
Linda Baird Editor in Chief 614NOW.COM
Office: (614) 488-4400 Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614columbus.com www.614columbus.com
C ALENDAR 1
BY STO CK & B ARREL STAFF
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4.20-25
4.26
5.2
Columbus Brew Festival
(614)’s Pizza and Beer Week
Columbus Dessert Festival
Six One Pour 2020
LOCATION: COSI
LOCATION: Varies
LOCATION: COSI
PRICE: $50-$65
PRICE: Varies
While COSI is typically a great place to take your little ones for a scientific adventure, this evening is dedicated to the big kids in Columbus. Alongside all the regular COSI offerings will be 60 different brewers from near and far, providing more than 150 different styles of brews. Your general admission ticket grants you access to unlimited beer samples and the early access ticket will get you in the doors early for some specialty beer samples.
It’s back! Whether it's gathering around to watch a sporting event or simply catching up with the old college gang, a big slice of pizza with a cold beer has never failed to satisfy the masses. (614) is making sure everyone can enjoy this iconic duo with discounted prices at a variety of participating restaurants and breweries around the city. It’s time to indulge a little, Columbus! To view the menus, check out eat614.com.
LOCATION: The Grand Event Center at the Grandview Yard PRICE: $15
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Just as Pizza and Beer Week draws to a close, it’ll be time to satisfy that sweet tooth with the Columbus Dessert Festival at the Grandview Yard. Your purchased ticket will provide you with 20 samples that can be used at the 25 different vendors on location as well as a treat box to start the day. The event is free for children to attend, with extra sweets available for purchase.
PRICE: $45-$65
It’s looking like a boozy couple of months for COSI, as it will also be playing host to Six One Pour 2020 in the early days of May. This time around it will be 50 Ohio brewers serving up their beers in addition to the Six One Pour brew, the namesake beer of the event, available on tap. Six One Pour is a specialty beer created by more than 20 different Ohio brewers specifically for the event, so don’t miss your chance to sip one! And as always, don’t forget your designated driver, who can get into the event for a discounted rate of $20.
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5.16-17 Second Annual Taco Festival LOCATION: Genoa Park PRICE: Free
While Taco Fest is one of the newer festivals hitting Genoa Park, it’s quickly becoming one of the more popular ones—and rightfully so. With two days full of tacos from local food trucks, tequila, and live music, what more could you need? Truly, festival season is on the horizon, and we at Stock & Barrel couldn’t be more excited.
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Spirit-Free Drinks s t i r i p S e e r for F 0% Alc./Vol.
0 proof
Zero Proof
0% ABV
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Non-alcoholic cocktails that
are getting buzz, without giving buzzes
BY M EL I SSA BR A I T HWA I T E P H OTOS BY BR I A N KA I SER
Non-alcoholic. Spirit-free. Dry. Zero-proof. Mocktail. Whatever you want to call it, there’s a new breed of low- and no-alcohol beverages that challenges the notion that a drink must be alcoholic to belong at special occasions and in toasts—and to taste delicious. The Hills Market Downtown is now hosting a monthly Zero-Proof Happy Hour to allow customers to try a variety of alcohol-free drinks that imitate classic cocktails (Gin & Tonics and Manhattans, for example) or embrace a new flavor profile altogether (Raspberry Limeade with raspberry CBD oil). 614NOW.COM
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It’s nice to have alternatives if you don’t want to or can’t drink alcohol. We are using products that are not exactly made like gin or whiskey, but they are made to taste like those products. “It’s nice to have alternatives if you don’t want to or can’t drink alcohol,” says Amanda Anderson, wine and cheese director for The Hills Market, who oversees the recurring event. “We are using products that are not exactly made like gin or whiskey, but they are made to taste like those products. [...] They have a bit of heat to them that they create with spices, so you get a little burn like you do with alcohol, and many of them have a little more viscosity than water, like a traditional spirit.” The January Zero-Proof Happy Hour hosted around 30 people and featured 11 different spirit-free cocktails and a handful of Casamara Club Amaro Sodas, made from bitters and sparkling water. The $3 sodas come in some very interesting flavors, with names like Onda (mandarin, peppermint and chamomile); Alta (citrus peel, juniper and clove); Capo (lemon, rhubarb and sage) and Sera (orange-blossom honey, grapefruit and cinnamon). In fact, there are plenty of newly emerging alcohol alternatives that create delicious drinks without the buzz. The Hills is mixing up Dry Negronis made with Monday Gin, a gin-flavored product emerging from a successful Kickstarter campaign; Kentucky Mules made with Ritual Whiskey Alternative, which is said to have the flavor, smell and burn of traditional spirits without the alcohol or calories; and Yuzu Spritzes with Seedlip brand Grove spirits, which bills itself as “the world’s first distilled non-alcoholic spirits” made from botanicals. As more people embrace the “sober curious” movement, which challenges people to step back and appraise their relationship with alcohol by drinking less or not at all, the popularity of zeroproof beverages is skyrocketing, as is their availability. According to a recent report by Bon Appetit, the market for low- and nonalcoholic beverages will likely grow by about 32 percent by 2022. The Hills is embracing the trend and wants to provide the community an opportunity to try these liquor alternatives in drinks that cost around $5. “This way, people can try these products without buying a whole bottle,” Anderson says. “And it’s also great for people who want to go out and not drink alcohol.” She says the market sells a “fair amount” of the bottled alcohol alternatives, but “there are people of course who don’t want that kind of product and don’t understand why you would spend $30 on something that does not get you drunk. [...] But that’s exactly why people buy it—because it tastes great and it doesn’t get you drunk.”
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Zero-Proof Happy Hour is held on the third Thursday of every month (except March) from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. at the Hills Market Downtown, 95 N. Grant Ave. The next event is scheduled on Tuesday, April 21. 614NOW.COM
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BrewDog’s new Nanodog line offers limited-release funky flavors BY J OHN M C L AUG HL I N P HOTOS BY WYZE
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t’s probably fitting that the event that changed Nick Manos’ life was called the General Mayhem Festival. A self-described “arts guy,” brewing was a hobby Manos cultivated over many years that he started in his garage. As he became more serious, he went to work in the industry, but always had a bigger goal in mind. “A lot of the reason I took the job [bartending] at BrewDog was to save up money to start my own brewery,” he said. After a long day of working the festival, Manos offered up several bottles of his recent homebrew to BrewDog employees and executives in town from Scotland. A board member took a particular liking to the brews, and asked him to join the BrewDog brewing team. Manos declined. “I remember him telling me to reconsider, that I was still young. ‘You have plenty of time,’ he told me. So I went home and thought about it and said to myself, 'what if I can come up with something at BrewDog that they don’t have?'” That’s exactly what he did. Manos noticed that the company was successfully producing more traditional styles of craft beer, but that they seemed to avoid many of the ultra-trendy styles gaining steam in 2019, such as hazy New England style IPAs and pastry stouts (named for their dessert-inspired adjuncts). “I’ve always thought we could be making more trendy beers. I never blamed BrewDog for not wanting to chase those styles. But I think we found the niche to do it in,” he said. Manos approached BrewDog co-owner James Watt the next day with his idea for Nanodog, a wholly artisanal, small-scale production line of trendy beers with their own unique image and feel. After a test release last fall and a successful pop-up pour event inside the brewery, the former bartender was given the reigns to his very own slice of BrewDog. 614NOW.COM
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Manos began the new decade as a “full-time Nanodog.” What he’d initially envisioned as a relatively small-scale operation has been greenlit by Watt for expansion. “After I showed him my five-year plan, I remember [Watt] saying, ‘Well, why don’t we do that now?’” And they did. The Nanodog team, through a partnership with Blichmann Engineering, purchased a two-barrel all electric system, complete with three twobarrel fermenters and a two-barrel bright tank, a massive upgrade over the homebrew system he’d been using. Manos went into the project understanding that Nanodog would need its own unique image separate from the neat, clean lines of the current BrewDog branding. Reaching out to his friend, artist Courtney L. Hall, he handselected a collage series she had been working on, one rife with unique cutouts from century-old cartoons and pamphlets. These are slated to become the face of Nanodog, as each future release will feature a different piece of original art from Hall’s series. “We want this to feel like an art brand, an antique brand even, something with unified vision where everything is thoughtful and crafted,” Manos said. Future Nanodog events will see production skyrocket from 15 gallons to a whopping 180. Of this production, 60 barrels will be put in bourbon barrels to age for future Nanodog releases; 60 barrels will be split between two stout variants; and the final 60 barrels will come in the form of an IPA with two variants. 20
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Currently, Nanodog IPA is only available on draft, with their stouts almost exclusively sold in bottles (this makes them far easier to share). With their new equipment, these are also set to expand. IPAs will soon be released in prefilled 25-ounce growlers, and more stout will be available on draft. Also a part of upcoming releases will be the Nanodog Jazz series, which takes existing Nanodog beers such as Hazy Jane and Aloha and infuses them with a litany of exciting adjuncts, such as pineapple, coconut, and marshmallow. “It’s a really unique situation we have here; I have a full lab at my disposal, I have access to all kinds of equipment that no two-barrel brewpub would ever have,” Manos said. “And it’s great. I feel like I’d want to be a part of Nanodog even if I wasn’t in my current position.” One has a feeling the mayhem is just getting started. Le a r n more a bout t he N a n o dog l i ne a nd i t s u p co m i ng rel ea s es at b rewdog.com/us a .
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BReW HoP
three breweries, one neighborhood, one night BY MI TC H H O O P E R
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The
winter months make going to the bars an absolute battle. Between waiting for Ubers, standing in lines, lugging around a coat, and sloshing through the snowy sludge, the process of going out seems more like a chore than a release. But all it takes is temperatures rising above 50 degrees to get Columbusites back in action around town. At least that’s how it is for myself and my friends. And judging by how busy the bars are those warmer days, it’s safe to assume you aren’t much different. We like to keep it casual—no sticky floor bars, please—but we also like to keep it moving. Through our many nights out, we’ve developed a method to our madness that we’ve called Brew Hop. 614NOW.COM
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ZA FTIG B R EWIN G CO. PHOTO BY ZA N E OSLER
The idea is simple: round up some friends, find an area that has a handful of breweries, try a few of their offerings, and move on to the next one. If the weather allows it, the bars are close enough to be considered walking distance. The goal is to have a night out that stays under $100, but doesn’t feel hindered by a budget. And if Mother Nature is unleashing some precipitation, splitting an Uber or Lyft with the group should keep things cheap on the transportation side. The first installment of Brew Hop takes form in the Italian Village. It begins at Zaftig Brewing, the second location for the local brewery, which recently opened on the corner of 5th Ave. and Summit St. Our crew arrived in a shared Uber and bellied up to the bar for a round of flights. Not only do flights keep the variety going, they’re almost too affordable to pass up: a flight of three 5 oz. brews is only $8, a flight of four is $10, and you can taste five for just $12. The range of beers available at Zaftig is large—the Mini Bomb Blonde is an excellent blonde ale boasting a light body with crisp and malty flavors, the Juicy Lucy is a tried-and-true IPA with a slightly hazy appearance, a hoppy smell, and notes of citrus and pine. My flight included the two aforementioned brews in addition to the Hazy Miss Daisy, a New England IPA with a 7% ABV, and the Hop Swapper, a double New England IPA with an even higher ABV at 10%. Of course, all this drinking drives up a serious appetite. And Zaftig can provide all the appetizers and entrees your squad needs. The butternut squash hummus features a subtly sweet hummus topped with pumpkin seeds and herbs and served with warm pita for just $9. This shareable is great for the whole table, and those grocery store hummus brands just won’t cut it after this. If you’re looking for a more traditional bar food shareables, the sweet potato tots ($7) or the Zaftig fries ($5) can be served with Heavy Hearted Amber Ale beer cheese for an additional $2. It’s a brewery hop, dammit, and everything must include beer. If you’re keeping score at home, the total expense report of the night thus far is about $20. Once the dust settles at Zaftig, it’s time to move on to the next brewery of the night. Again, if the weather is decent, you could make this a walkable journey as your next stop is Seventh Son on Fourth St. (If it’s not, an Uber or Lyft is about $8, or $2 per person in a group of four). Seventh Son Brewing is a brewery that almost needs no introduction. As a consistent winner of (614)’s Columbest awards, the brewery lives up to its hype with plenty of seating room and an awesome rooftop patio with 24
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a retractable roof. And of course, the beers are delicious, too. Switching up my path of IPAs, I decided to go with a pint of Numbers In Reverse, an easy drinking lager with an ABV of 5.25% (see what they did there?). Seventh Son also recently introduced Kitty Paw to its menu, which is their take on the popular boozy seltzers that are taking the nation by storm. A friend decided to go with that, and the combination of mango and peach with the light and refreshing crisp of the seltzer provided for a nice change. Plus, with an ABV of 4.2%, you can sip these back without feeling too bloated. While Seventh Son doesn’t have a kitchen, they welcome food trucks in the parking lot on the weekends. Fridays are host to Aloha Street Eatery in the evening, Dos Hermanos is serving up burritos and quesadillas on Saturday night, and Blu Olive is ready for all of your late Sunday Funday adventures. The final stop on this beer-filled night is Hoof Hearted Brewing, and it’s just a few blocks down from Seventh Son. It can either be a mile-long walk, or about an $8 Uber or Lyft split between your crew. If you didn’t fill up on some food beforehand, you might be out of luck when you arrive at Hoof Hearted as the kitchen closes down at 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and at 9 p.m. on Sunday. Depending on how many beers you put back at Seventh Son, the estimated total of money spent at this point should be right around $30-$40. In terms of beer, Hoof Hearted seemingly has it all. The triple-dryhopped Everybody Wants Some IPA is an American Imperial IPA with an ABV of 9.2% and hints of orange citrus and wheat. Looking for something lighter? The He’s Like The Wind is a Paleta sour made with pineapple, lime, hibiscus, and Chile salt with an ABV of 5%. If you’re unsure where to start, a flight of four 5 oz. pours will run you $12 giving you some leeway with your decisions. The Konkey Dong has become somewhat of a flagship brew for Hoof Hearted, and it’s for good reason. The double-IPA beer is a quintessential New England IPA with hazy orange appearance and juicy flavors, thanks to the incorporation of fruits like tangerine, mango, and orange. Best of all? A pint of this brew is only $5. Alas, the night comes to a close after Hoof Hearted. It’s time to hail down one last Uber, hop your tipsy ass in it, and call it a day. Go ahead and ask the driver for the AUX cord—you deserve it (probably). And as you slide into bed for some much-needed shut eye, you can rest easy knowing your night out cost about $65—plus or minus $10 if this were Vegas odds. 614NOW.COM
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A Place for the People 26
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The doors of Our Bar are open for all BY JAELA N I TU R N ER -W I L L I A M S P HOTOS BY WYZE
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or the people, by the people Not only is the graffiti-styled slogan on a wall of Our Bar for Instagram photoops, it’s also a token of solidarity with frequent guests of Olde Towne East’s new hangout spot. As a growing destination within Columbus since its opening in July of last year, Our Bar has become a one-stop shop for a homey atmosphere and inclusivity—it’s genuinely welcoming to all. With a signature wall drop created by artist Cassie Dickerson and generous pours of flowing liquor, Our Bar co-managers Marlon Anthony and Charles Daniels had no expectation that the buzz would generate so quickly. With visitors raving about its coziness and the exposed brick interior, regular patrons have even coined it Columbus’ new “house bar.” “We knew we wanted something that would create a social media buzz, similar to the floral wall at Lincoln Social, but we wanted to make sure that it was a reflection of who we are and what we stand for,” Anthony said, referring to the wall art. “We told Cassie our vision and she executed it flawlessly. We had no idea it would become this popular, though, and we’re thankful for every person who’s posted a picture of the wall.” 614NOW.COM
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Neighboring artwork within Our Bar also reflects its embrace of Black culture, especially framed portraits of fallen L.A. icons Nipsey Hussle and Kobe Bryant, and even song lyrics by The Notorious B.I.G. “We always want to make sure that the space reflects and pays homage to key figures within the ‘culture’, as many of us call it,” Daniels said. “The lyrics and photos are a means to carry on the legacy of the individuals who have had a positive influence on so many of us, whether it’s when we were coming up as kids or in recent years.” Our Bar looks to exude a similar forwardthinking appeal, whether hosting professionals who need to unwind after a long day, celebrating Divine Nine Organizations on their respective Founders’ Days, or in managing its first New Year’s Eve crowd. Rather than opening the venue to would-be revelers looking to ring in 2020, the aura of Our Bar was intimate. Guests were polished, only able to attend New Year’s Eve festivities if they had purchased tickets beforehand. Though Our Bar is growing in popularity, amongst the team, there’s organized crowd-control. “We’ve really had to kind of learn on the fly in terms of staffing and with product inventory. As we scaled [back] we would find ourselves running out of beers or napkins, so we had to take a step back and evaluate ourselves around early December,” Daniels said. “We want to ensure that we’re providing quality service to our guests, from the host greeting them at the door, to the bartenders making sure that drinks are served in a reasonable amount of time, to barbacks keeping the space clean.”
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On an average night, Our Bar hosts DJs to liven up the experience. Being able to switch sets on a rotation, or even having designated nights for playlist-driven events (Klink!, OurTurn, Nothing But Vibes), Anthony assures that DJs aren’t in competition with each other, but that each event is championed by all attendees. “These events are dope and bring a different element and audience to the bar. It’s great working with the people who coordinate these events and us—[as] event producers ourselves— being able to provide a venue for them to be successful is what we’re all about.” To give DJs a long-overdue courtesy, Our Bar recently implemented a ‘no requests’ policy for event curation, in order to steer guests away from bombarding DJs with song demands. In an Instagram post, Our Bar stated that “DJs are hand-selected to provide the music each and every night that fits the elevated experience you can expect from us.” Staying true to their word, Our Bar has given DJs the freedom of self-expression and fulfilling the crowd’s appetite for enjoyment. “We take a great deal of pride in hand-picking the DJs, and we take even more pride in empowering them to have a safe space to perform their art. The music creates the vibe for the entire venue, and we want to make sure that we are staying true to our vision as a fun lounge [where] people can enjoy themselves,” Anthony said. With several Olde Towne East establishments expanding into and intentionally catering to Black Columbus residents through its businesses—including Upper Cup, Black Art Plus, and Lifestyle Cafe—Our Bar fits snugly among them as they continue to find their footing. And, in the wake of the recent
We take a great deal of pride in hand-picking the DJs, and we take even more pride in empowering them to have a safe space to perform their art.
controversy around dress codes in Short North bars that seemed targeted at the Black community, Our Bar dismisses the notion of rejecting guests simply because of their appearance. “We empower the people to really take ownership in the bar, knowing that this is a safe place where they can come and be their authentic self,” Anthony said. “Even with spots that have more tenure in Olde Towne East such as Hang Over Easy and The Tavern, it’s a win-win that the Black community is able to enjoy these establishments and that establishments are embracing the Black community,” Daniels added. And just like that, "the people" are here to stay.
Our Bar is located at 890 Oak St. Follow on Instagram at @ourbarandlounge. 614NOW.COM
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Somewhere in Particular Brewing Company offers two spots to sip in North Columbus BY L I N DA L EE BA I R D P HOTO BY A M Y G LASS
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IN TER IOR AT SIP LOC A L IN CL IN TON V IL L E
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at Sullivan calls himself a “gypsy brewer.” Starting as the head brewer of Nowhere in Particular (NIP) beer in Dayton, Sullivan brought his hops-and-wanderlust approach to Columbus in 2018 with the opening of Somewhere in Particular (SIP). In fall 2019, SIP Local opened in Clintonville, giving Sullivan yet another location to test his mettle. Francis Heath, a SIP business partner, explained Sullivan’s approach to his craft. “His whole concept, [...] was going and growing awareness on craft beer by working on other people’s systems,” he said, with the rationale that collaboration leads to better execution and creativity for all involved.
And the well-rounded menu available at both SIP and SIP Local demonstrates that Sullivan’s gypsy brewing theory might hold some water. From Citizen Hobo, SIP’s flagship IPA, to the cleverly-named and easily drinkable Studweiser lager, the menu offers original takes on popular varieties. Sullivan doesn’t play it totally safe with his creations, though; he’s a brewer who likes to experiment. Brian Dudziak, the Regional Manager for SIP and SIP Local, says that sours secure plenty of real estate on SIP’s taps. “That seems to be an up-and-coming beer trend, especially in Columbus.” Sullivan also developed a 614NOW.COM
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line of Harry Porters; a Patronus blend containing marshmallow was on tap when I visited, with a carrot cake-flavored Weasley in the works for the future. SIP occupies the space of an old farmhouse near the corner of Dierker and Bethel Roads in Northwest Columbus. It came to be through a partnership between two well-known local brands— the Gallo’s Food Group and Local Cantina—which solidified when Sullivan came into the picture. “Years ago, Gallo’s had a tap takeover with NIP, and that’s where we met Pat,” Heath explains. Meanwhile, Heath, who also works as the Beverage Manager and Operations Director for the Local Cantina group, said he and Joe Casey from Gallo’s “grew up in the restaurant industry together.” The partnership they formed to start SIP, while unusual in the industry, felt perfectly natural. “We started Somewhere in Particular together as a group of like-minded industry professionals,” Heath explained. Though it’s rare for different businesses to collaborate on a project like this, it exemplifies Sullivan’s gypsy brewing approach: work together and learn something new. Collaboration was important from the beginning, as the space SIP first acquired in Columbus isn’t necessarily a natural location for a bar/restaurant. It's a farmhouse that was built in 1859 (the original log smokehouse remains in the parking lot). About half of the facility is used for private events in a space called the Henderson House, while the remainder hosts brewing equipment, the bar, and kitchen. Due to space limitations associated with the historic building, the menu at SIP is more limited than its Clintonville counterpart. “The space really dictated the opening more than anything,” Heath said. And while it’s near two busy roads, it also feels off the beaten path, set back from the street and still surrounded by fields—a remnant of its past. “The space on Dierker Rd. is a beautiful outdoor space that, just, you don’t see every day,” Heath said. It’s filled with tables and games like cornhole. In the warmer months, families and dogs are a common sight outdoors, giving SIP the feeling of a large family picnic, albeit one with much better beverages. SIP Local, meanwhile, has refined the outdoor experience for a more urban setting. Without a sign on the storefront, visitors are greeted by a fire pit surrounded by bales of hay, inviting them to take a seat and roast a marshmallow (free s’mores ingredients are
SOU THWEST ' ZZA ON THE CU STOM B A R TOP AT SIP B R EWERY & TA PR OOM
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We want to get every local brewery that we can find to come be an ‘ingredients-be-damned’ style beer. Like just make all the weird stuff that we’ve all wanted to make. available inside). Dudziak says that plans for outdoor patio seating are in the works. But it’s the interior where SIP Local really shines. A giant tree, adorned with locks, anchors the center of the space. Guests can purchase locks to add to the tree, with $15 of proceeds from every purchase going to FLOW (Friends of the Lower Olentangy Watershed), a local conservation group. A plethora of plants add to the outdoorsy-indoor theme. Even the wooden tables have a story; they came from a retiring area carpenter who needed to offload some materials. As its name suggests, the local component is core to the brand. “We want as much Ohio to scream out loud as possible,” Heath said. This commitment comes through across the menu offerings. “All of our spirits are Ohio-based. [...] All of the beer is from, probably, anywhere from eight to 10 different breweries in Ohio,” Dudziak shared, adding that six to 10 SIP beers are always also on draft. The goal is to showcase the talents of the region, as opposed to SIP exclusively. Food offerings are also locally-sourced whenever possible. And adding to the collaborative spirit rooted in Sullivan’s brewing vision, the menu came together with the input of everyone on SIP Local’s staff. “We really wanted to hit home on trying to get the entire group—I mean servers, the kitchen if they want to be involved, the managers—everybody. We make decisions as a team, and we’ve found that our staff has responded very well to it,” Heath explained. As the business continues to settle in, more “gypsy-style” production is planned. “We want to get every local brewery that we can find to come be an ‘ingredients-be-damned’ style beer. Like just make all the weird stuff that we’ve all wanted to make,” Heath said. With such imaginative spirit behind the brand, SIP is likely to continue to evolve. Whether that means more locations in the future, or doubling down on offerings already on the menu, it’s a trajectory I’m looking forward to following. No matter what comes next, Heath is confident about their approach. “We know that wherever we go, we’re going to try to address being part of the community there. That’s the whole idea of being ‘Somewhere in Particular.’” SIP is located at 5053 Dierker Rd. Learn more at sipbrew.com. SIP Local is located at 2808 N High St. Learn more at siplocal614.com. 614NOW.COM
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Ohio's
Wineries
BEER CHEESE SOUP
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OUR RE
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T ’S Y A H
SARAH MOORE Lead Designer
Sarah’s Souper Victory BY LIN DA LEE BA I R D | P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I S E R
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he staff at Stock & Barrel celebrated Super Bowl week by following our own office tradition this year: holding the annual Soup Week competiton. It’s exactly what it sounds like. Every (614) Media Group employee makes a giant batch of homemade soup for all their colleagues to sample and score. The folks with the top three highest scores then make a second soup, showcasing their range of ladle-filling swagger, and once again everyone votes. As you can imagine, at the office of a food and drink magazine, the competition is fierce. This year, Lead Designer Sarah Moore took home the coveted giant spoon with her Beer Cheese Soup. We caught up with Moore to get the inside slurp. S&B: TELL US ABOUT THIS SOUP. WHAT'S IT CALLED, AND WHAT'S IT TASTE LIKE? SM: The soup is called Beer Cheese Soup and it tastes exactly how it sounds! It even pairs with soft pretzels. It's super popular in Wisconsin, where German immigrants brought the recipe over with them. IS IT SOMETHING YOU'VE MADE BEFORE, OR WAS THIS YOUR FIRST TIME? HOW DID YOU PICK THIS RECIPE FOR THE FINAL?
This was my first time making this soup. Aside from picking a recipe I knew would have leftover beer for myself, I chose it because it's everything a good soup should be: thick, hearty, and cheesy. I also love trying out new recipes and tweaking them to make them my own. All recipes typically call for a stock, but in order to make this soup vegetarian friendly, I added in more cream. WHAT TIPS DO YOU HAVE FOR READERS MAKING THIS AT HOME?
You'll definitely want to pick a beer that you already like to drink. I chose Moosehead Lager, a Canadian classic. It's light, but not too light, and still has enough sweetness and maltiness to combat the tang of the cheese. Stay away from IPA's or other hoppy beers, as this will add too much bitterness to the soup. HOW DIFFICULT IS THIS SOUP TO MAKE?
I'd say this soup requires medium skill. I don't plan to make this soup very often because of the time it takes, so this is definitely a special occasion soup! It can also be made in a larger batch and frozen. 614NOW.COM
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Beer Cheese Soup
Adapted from a recipe published in Milwaukee magazine, June 2018. | Serves 12 INGREDIENTS: ½ lb. unsalted butter
1 tsp. Kosher salt
½ cup diced yellow onion
2 tbsp. granulated garlic
¼ cup diced celery
1 tsp. cayenne pepper
¼ cup diced carrot
A hefty dash of Tabasco
1 cup medium grain white rice, uncooked
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 qt. beer
2 lb. mix of cubed sharp white cheddar and mild yellow cheddar cheese
4 qts. water, divided 2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. white pepper
2 qts. half-and-half
Popcorn, soft pretzels, chives, and extra shredded cheese for topping
TOOLS: Heavy bottomed stock pot or dutch oven, cheesecloth, immersion blender
Step 1. Melt the butter in the pot over medium heat. After foam subsides, add onion, celery, and carrots. Continue cooking until vegetables are soft and the onions are clear. Step 2. Pour the butter and vegetable mixture through a cheesecloth-lined strainer. Give it a few minutes to cool, and then squeeze the vegetables dry and discard. Return the butter to the pot. Step 3. Toast the rice in the butter over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes, and stir occasionally. Add the beer and 2 qts. water, Worcestershire sauce, salt, white pepper, garlic, cayenne, and Dijon mustard. Bring to a simmer and cook until rice is mushy, roughly 30-40 minutes. Step 4. Bring the heat back up to medium and add the half-and-half. Give it a good stir and add cubed cheese a little at a time while continuing to stir, (this part is very important so that you don't burn the cheese at the bottom.) Once all of the cheese is melted, blend the soup in the pot using the immersion blender. Add 2 qts. of water while blending to reach your desired consistency. Remove from heat and taste, add in extra Worcheshire, Tabasco, and cayenne as desired. Step 5. The soup is ready to serve! Top with chives and extra cheese for flavor, and add a handful of popcorn for texture!
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Mozart’s
Second Act After a quarter-century, a new direction takes shape
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BY M EL I N DA G R EEN P HOTOS BY OL I V I A K . JA M ES
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t’s been 25 years since pastry chef Doris Saha and her husband Anand arrived in the U.S. from Austria, chasing the American dream with their vision for a European-style bakery. By all accounts, they’ve achieved that dream with Mozart’s Café. “We’re pretty organized here, having a husband and wife team in-house,” Anand said. “Twenty-five years later it’s still very fresh. We’re still coming up with things.” What Anand calls “Mozart’s first act” took the Sahas from a small storefront north of campus to their current restaurant and banquet location in Clintonville. “I’ve experimented with a lot of stores and restaurants. I’ve failed in some, which I’m not ashamed to say, and I’ve been successful in others. And it all prepared me for this big venture. This building was empty for seven long years, and I took the gamble. I said, ‘This is going to be my home.’ And we did it.” But the restaurant industry has changed. “There’s more restaurants than before. There’s nothing like Mozart’s, and although I could have gone with the trend and opened a bar or put televisions in here and made a lot of money, I just didn’t want to do that, because it’s never made me happy,” he said. “For me, it was always, what I wanted to do, I wanted to do correctly.” He gestures to the fresh red rose in a vase on the table. “I think I’ve spent a fortune on roses.” Now, it’s time for Act Two. Mozart’s still has live piano music every day from 11 a.m. until mid-afternoon, still offers afternoon tea by reservation, and still serves traditional German and Austrian meals alongside some
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of the best pastries in the city. But at the end of last year, the café started closing at 5:30 p.m. “We are slowly transitioning from being a restaurant to a banquet facility,” Anand explained. "I want to get it to that place where I can just be doing events and the bakery. We have been around for 25 years. There’s only a handful of small, family-run businesses in Columbus who have been in business over 20 years. And now, I can be home in the evenings.” Already, Mozart’s has numerous weddings and holiday parties lined up for 2020. Whether or not they will continue to cater their private events beyond serving pastries remains to be decided, but the bakery will remain the heart of the operation. “Mozart’s has grown so much,” Anand said. “I’m in the front, talking to people, but it’s really because of the person behind the scenes, and that’s Doris. Without Doris, there is no Mozart’s. Period. She’s definitely the soul of the business.” With a team of just three pastry chefs in the kitchen, baking everything “absolutely from scratch,” Mozart’s still manages to have one of the largest pastry varieties in the city. Customers stick to their favorites, like the renowned marzipan peach, so change is rare.
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And I feel like in Columbus, in Clintonville, I've brought Europe to them. They don't have to travel; it's right here for them to experience.
Recently, though, Doris added Lebkuchen—a traditional Austrian Christmas treat served year-round at the café. It’s a heart-shaped cake-cookie full of spices, with crisp confectioner’s glaze on the bottom and a covering of dark chocolate that hides decadent apricot filling. (I grew up eating Lebkuchen, and hers is by far the best I’ve had.) Doris truly is the soul of the business, and Anand is the energy. He’s the face on the front of the house, interacting with customers and strategizing the cafe’s future. “Our idea to have three or four Mozart’s never worked, because we were not able to be in different locations. We work together, and we make a great team.” The Sahas’ impact goes beyond exquisite pastries and banquet space. The café is a catalyst for their commitment to the Clintonville community and to music education. Since moving into the current location, Anand has started Taste of Clintonville and Experience Clintonville. Mozart’s has always supported the local arts, especially classical music. They offer their event space for piano recitals and do whatever else they can to support music for youth and children. “In the schools, the first funding that gets cut is music,” Anand noted. “We try to support the Columbus City Schools especially, so those children have a chance to play music in public. Every once in a while, we have children or young adults come in and want to just hang out and play, and we let them.” Anand’s children’s charity, Million Lego for Kids, is still going strong, collecting Legos and giving them to underprivileged children and schools. A smaller nonprofit, Young Mozart Scholars Fund, works to provide schools with musical instruments and sheet music. No matter what the future brings, Anand notes that Mozart’s will stay true to its roots. “The pastries, the classical music, those things are always the same. And I think my customers, especially the older ones, appreciate that. And I feel like in Columbus, in Clintonville, I’ve brought Europe to them. They don’t have to travel; it’s right here for them to experience.” Mozart’s is located at 4784 N High St. Learn more at mozartscafe.com. 614NOW.COM
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Scoop Sampling soup dumplings across the city BY L I N DA L E E B A I R D | P H OTOS BY R E B E CC A TI E N
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he first rule of moving away from New York City is you do not talk about the food in New York City. Doing so is likely to inspire cravings that, despite the best intentions of your new hometown, can’t be properly fulfilled. But like most rules, this one is made to be broken, which is how I found myself with an insatiable craving for Chinese soup dumplings on a cold February day. Soup dumplings (xiao long bao) invert commonly-held American assumptions about the properties of both soup and dumplings, geniously putting the soup inside the dumpling, so that it pours forth when the skin is punctured. They’re almost like an appetizer inside of an appetizer; offering something to sip before digging into the rest of the pork stuffing. Just as important as the flavor is the presentation, including the number of pleats on top, which is said to indicate the chef’s skill level. (Joe’s Shanghai, my favorite Chinese restaurant in New York suggests dumplings should have at least 14 pleats). Was this a craving I could fulfill? A bit of Googling revealed soup dumplings on the menu of several Columbus restaurants. With the determination only a hungry food writer can muster, I set out to explore them.
Kirin Noodle 4227 N High St.
The sign on the overhang reads Chatime, but if you’ve been assuming this Clintonville shop is just for bubble tea, you’ve been missing some of the best noodles you can get in the area. Soup dumplings are also on the menu. Like any good noodle bar, Kirin offers counter seating, where you can dig in next to other happy diners, as well as tables for larger groups. It’s a fastcasual operation: order at the counter, grab a number and a seat, and wait for the food to come to you. I had trouble at first finding the “soup dumplings” on the menu as I scanned the headers for those familiar words. They’re there, I assure you; under steamed dumplings you’ll find the pork xiaolong bao, the explanation beneath promising “signature soup dumplings” in fine print. Yes, please. I was warned when I ordered there would be a 12 minute wait, which I happily agreed to. I handed over my $5, settled in at a corner table, hooked into the free Wi-Fi, and soon enough they appeared: four dumplings in a bamboo basket, served with a spoon of ginger and vinegar for dipping. The soup was subtle but distinct; a bit dribbled out with each bite, the sauce providing a tart complement to the hearty pork and broth. 614NOW.COM
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Helen’s Asian Kitchen 1070 E Dublin-Granville Rd.
To call Helen’s Asian Kitchen a “hidden gem” isn’t quite right. It’s located near the corner of 161 and I-71—hardly a remote area. Yet it is tucked away, in a sense, next to a shuttered self-storage space, accessible from eastbound 161 only via a series of strip-mall-connecting side streets, and occupying the front corner of a parking lot shared with a Super-8 Hotel. Convenient, it is not. But the soup dumplings alone make it worth the visit. Here, they incorporate crab meat with the pork, lightening the flavor of the meat. Helen’s offers two choices: the No. 1 on the special menu, which will get you four dumplings for $4.50 (they include the calories count too: a mere 40 a pop); or for the hungrier, the xiao long bao on the appetizer list gives you an order of 10 for $8.95, served in a bamboo steamer. (For what it’s worth, the menu doesn’t mention crab this time, but the server told us they were the same). Like Kirin, we had to wait a bit for them to finish, and you know what that means—fresh dumplings. Again, the soup wasn’t overwhelming—there was decidedly more meat than liquid inside—but it was a warm splash of contrast to the doughy exterior, resulting in a satisfying treat.
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Noodle Topia 7541 Sawmill Rd.
Noodle Topia opened in Dublin at the end of 2019, and is still finding its footing in some ways. From the sign haphazardly tied across the top of the storefront, to tables being cleared at a less-than-efficient pace, there’s room to grow operationally. But Noodle Top more than makes up for these shortcomings in its kitchen; the hungry patrons patiently waiting in line for a table at lunchtime served as a testament to this fact. Though our party of four waited about 15 minutes for a seat during a Saturday lunch rush, Noodle Topia is set up to fill time in line. On our right, we browsed the menu, scrawled on a giant chalkboard, and carefully planned our orders. On our left, we watched as diners seated at the counter were served bowls of noodles that looked almost too good to eat (though they gladly did just that). But the best view was right in front of us: the chef pulling small circles of dough into long, perfect noodles that he separated by hand before putting them into the bowls of his fortunate guests. Soup dumplings appear on the Dim Sum menu here, described succinctly as “juicy pork meat.” An order of six costs $9.59, making them the priciest per-dumpling of the three establishments. They are also the most generously filled, meat-wise, leaving just enough space for a splash of soup to seep out with your first bite. The pork boasts a distinct scallion flavor, distinguishing it from the other restaurants. Once again, you should expect to wait here for your order—our dumplings took about 15 minutes to prepare—and once again the wait was worth it. I immediately recognized that these had the most pleats on top. Using all the patience I could muster, I counted 14—then I devoured them.
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Veggies for the Soul Plant-based soul food is the stuff the Willoughby brothers’ dreams are made of BY JAELA N I TURNE R -W I L L I A M S | P HOTOS BY R E B E CC A TI E N
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F
or those who believe that dreams are merely forgotten, the founding brothers of health conscious vendor Willowbeez Soulveg, Carnell Willoughby and Malik Willoughby, beg to differ. It was during slumber in which Malik—a yogi who Carnell refers to as the “brainchild” of Willowbeez Soulveg—was mentally awakened by the concept behind the plant-based pop-up eatery. “We started our vegetarian journey in the early 90's [and] the au naturale concept is a play on our last name, merging ‘willow tree’ and ‘honey bee’,” said Carnell, who established Willowbeez Soulveg alongside Malik in 2012. “The 400 Farmers Market is where we first tested our Jamaican curry cabbage almost seven years ago [and it] was a family favorite. If you ask me, we can stand to have more vegan offerings from pop-ups to full service restaurants. Columbus' vegan foodscape is growing by leaps and bounds.” While the vegan population has grown through Facebook groups, constant meal recommendations, and annual events such as Jazz and Vegan Ribz Fest, Columbus VegFest and Columbus Vegan Festival, foodies are still hard-pressed to find authentic plantbased soul food. Carnell shares that his meals are created with the intention of bringing the community together. “Columbus is not only a huge test market city, it's also a foodie city. Quite a few big restaurant chains have roots in Ohio, [but] it's extremely important to preserve Black culture through food, art and urban farming. It helps keep us rooted as a people and it also fosters self-sufficiency,” he said. 614NOW.COM
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Housed at MPACC Box Park on Mount Vernon Avenue in the warmer months, Willowbeez Soulveg also holds regular pop-ups on Mondays and Fridays at The Hills Market. Patrons get a kick out of their punny entrée names. Before lunchtime, Willowbeez’s Instagram and Facebook followers can view the upcoming menu. While options rotate, fan favorites include Mac & Plz, BBJerk Chicn Wraps, Tofurky Melt and a sweet, moist essential for every order—cornbread. Most recently, Willowbeez has introduced the Grabcake Sliders, a vegan take on crabcake and the NOLA Bowl, inspired by a previous trio Carnell took to New Orleans. For him, the Lefteye SoulChili was a southern-influenced staple. “Lefteye SoulChili is a community favorite—it's a beautiful blend of heat, sweet and a touch of citrus. As of late, my supporters have been going bananas over Umi's Butter Bean & Kale soup: a hearty, smoky bowl of love. All of my dishes are a work in progress. I truly believe [that] in moments, I've had some nearperfect dishes, according to some of my supporters.” Perfection would nearly be an understatement, as Willowbeez Soulveg has boasted a large, dedicated grassroots following. Hosting pop-ups throughout the city—holding occasional #4DaLoveofBrunch gatherings at Upper Cup Coffee in Gahanna and Two Dollar Radio, even once having wrap-centric rush at Eden Burger— Carnell embraces The Hills Market as his humble domain. “Our long standing pop-up at The Hills Market transforms the space into a cultural hub, and my approach to health conscious cuisine definitely pushes culture forward,” he said. Within the past year, Willowbeez Soulveg began the Healthy Food, Healthy Music series. It started at Long Street Studio, but has since transferred to Gateway Event Center in the King-Lincoln District. Last held in December, the third installment of Healthy Food, Healthy Music symbolically featured three family-style courses: warm root salad with fried eggplant, Moroccan stuffed peppers served with jollof—a hearty West African Rice—and dark chocolate served with decadent mango-mint ice cream.
“Healthy Food, Healthy Music is a partnership with Cedric Easton (a drummer who performed at the event) who relocated to New York City. Our themes are conceptualized based on remixed cuisines ranging from Africa to the Caribbean, musicians of the past, and being sure to honor our ancestors,” Carnell said. While Black cuisine can often be misrepresented and exploited through appropriation to fit conforming agendas, Carnell hopes that Willowbeez Soulveg is able to expand into its own entity, paying homage to the ancestors who passed down their familial recipes. “Brick-and-mortar is definitely a goal [and] overwhelmed is an understatement. I've had my bouts of anxiety, good stress, and frustrating experiences in my preparation and execution of the pop-up process, [but] I have to admit it's all worth it,” he says. “Serving is a form of self-care for me, so making sure my spirit is in a good place is paramount. I'm of the belief that your spirit is a part of what you cook.” To ke e p u p w i t h th e me n u an d Wi l l ow b e ez S o u lve g p op - u p l ocat i o n s, fo llow t h e i r I n st ag ram at @w i l l ow b e ezs o u lve g . 614NOW.COM
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off the Rails
The buzz around Beeline, Easton’s newest bar 56
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BY M E L I SSA B R A IT HWAI T E P H OTOS BY KY L E T RACEY
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Where else can you go around here that is
open until 2:30 a.m. every day
except Monday and Tuesday? We are that late-night spot for an after-hours drink.
hen you think of Easton Town Center, you may think of shopping and restaurants, but nightlife? Not so much. The Beeline wants to change that. As part of the new $500 million Easton expansion, the 3,000 square-foot high-energy bar is now open at 3989 Merchants Row. The bar is named after the railway that once connected Cincinnati to Columbus. The house cocktails also are train-themed, with names like Bend the Rails (a draft vodka cocktail), Smokestack (a tequila cocktail) and Night Train (a bourbon cocktail), among others. This is the place to chug along to for what may be the most reasonable happy hour around. Monday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. and Friday from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m., all drinks are half off. Word to revelers: don’t sit around on your caboose waiting for someone to serve you, and don’t come hungry. For now, The Beeline only offers bar service and does not serve food, although Margo Rafizadeh, Operations Manager, says several partnerships are in the works to bring catering in-house for customer munchies. “We are talking to Piada and Condado Tacos about this now, and hope to work something out." Hoping to attract the late-night crowd, Easton employees hitting up happy hour, and private parties, Rafizadeh says The Beeline is a unique bar that meets the needs of those different groups. Each area, indoors and outdoors, can be cordoned off for private parties of 10 to 250 people. Although the bar is named for a locomotive, the decor is decidedly glam. The music thumps, the bartenders get their groove on while shaking craft cocktails, and customers chill underneath gigantic, opulent chandeliers. The statement wallpaper and gold furnishings lend a swanky vibe to the space, and the craft cocktails are unique and fresh. Meanwhile outside, a patio wraps around threequarters of the building and will host a variety of yard games when weather permits, including giant
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Jenga, cornhole, bocce and more. A small concrete outdoor space features a fireplace and couches with a relaxed vibe. The outdoor bar boasts retractable windows that are closed for the winter, with heaters to make better use of the space in the cold. When the winter leaves for the season, so will the windows, making for a comfortable open-air bar concept. The massive building is part of a new large entertainment complex, with tenants including Forbidden Root, Pins Mechanical Co., and Ivan Kane’s Forty Deuce Café and Speakeasy. The nearby bulldozers foreshadow more to come with this new expansion. The Beeline is owned by Cincinnati-based Four Entertainment Group, with more than 20 bars and restaurants throughout Chicago, Cincinnati, Northern Kentucky and now Columbus. It marks the group’s first foray into the Columbus market, which Rafizadeh says is “a big risk for us.” But she says Easton is ready for a hip, latenight hotspot. “Where else can you go around here that is open until 2:30 a.m. every day except Monday and Tuesday? We are that late-night spot for an after-hours drink.”
The Beeline is located at 3989 Merchants Row. To learn more, visit thebeelinebar.com. 614NOW.COM
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THE
BY MIKE THOMAS | P HOTO BY BR I A N KA I SER
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hat does Columbus taste like? We assembled a sandwich from some of the city’s many noteworthy and historic purveyors to answer just that. The result is part Italian sub, part BLT, and all delicious. Can one single sandwich encapsulate the many cultures and traditions that make up the city’s diverse food scene? Of course not. With the bounds of good taste (not to mention gravity) in mind, we still managed to create something that represents centuries of combined experience, gathered from the far corners of Central Ohio. For your consideration: the Columbus Sandwich—a small taste of what makes this city such a unique and wonderful place to eat.
Mini-Super northmarket.com As the name suggests, MiniSuper is your mini supermarket tucked right into the historic North Market. With the feeling of your favorite country farm stand, it’s your one-stop-shop for locally raised produce.
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Thurn’s thurnsmeats.com With over 130 years in the meat game, the baked ham from Thurn's is a welcome addition to any application that calls for cold cuts.
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Marzetti Salad Dressings | marzetti.com The city’s historic family restaurant lives on through its many great salad dressings, which are widely available in supermarkets across town. For our purposes, the Sweet Italian dressing lends some very welcome zip to our sandwich.
Carfagna’s carfagnasmarket.com For a taste of the old country, a selection of deli favorites from Carfagna’s market (we chose salami, pepperoni, and capicola) offers flavor you can’t refuse.
Falters Fine Meats faltersmeats.com
Snowville Creamery snowvillecreamery.com Aged for a minimum of 60 days and made with unpasteurized, grass-grazed raw milk, Snowville’s White Cheddar stands up among the biggest flavors in any sandwich.
Like Thurn’s, the Falters have been slinging the finest meats in the city for over a century. Wet cured and smoked with real wood chips, Falter’s is bacon as bacon should be.
Dan the Baker dan-the-baker.com It all starts with the bread— in this case, that’s Dan the Baker’s country sourdough. Rustic and airy with a slight smoky char to the crust, a couple of slices are the perfect foundation for any sandwich. 614NOW.COM
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FA M I LY T I E S :
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his season at Stock & Barrel, we want to take a moment to celebrate familyowned operations. Over the years in our city, these spots have stood the test of time and are cementing their legacy in the history of Columbus. Whether it’s a bakery, a butcher, or a barbecue, the one thing that ties all these stories together is family. It’s one generation following a dream, taking it to new heights, and handing the reins over to the next in line. It’s stories of trust, success, and setbacks—and the passion and energy put into moving forward—that is worth a closer look. Follow along as we take you through the past, present, and future of five family-owned and timeless Columbus establishments. 614NOW.COM
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y l i m a F s e i T
FA M I LY T I E S :
THURN'S SPECIALTY MEATS BY M I K E TH O M AS | P H OTOS BY B RI AN KAI SER
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fficially founded in 1886, the origins of Thurn’s Specialty Meats go back even further. Alois Thurn learned old-world meat processing skills working on his father’s 2-acre farm in the south of Germany. As one of seven sons, he knew that his chances of inheriting the land were slim-to-none. Equipped with little more than his expertise, Thurn set sail for the United States in 1870 with dreams of a better life in the new frontier of the American West. “He ran out of money when he got to Columbus. His ultimate goal was to go on to Seattle, but he never made it. He never even got out there in his life,” Albert Thurn—Alois’ great-grandson—explains with a laugh. Seattle’s loss is most definitely Columbus’ gain, as Thurn's iconic Greenlawn Avenue storefront and processing facility remains a local institution to this day. One of the best places in town to find authentic, old-world German fare, it’s hard to imagine Alois Thurn could have known that the shop would still be in operation when he started selling products out of his home on Front Street. “At that time, there were seven or eight breweries in that Front Street area, and they had saloons, which were like their taprooms,” Albert says of his ancestor’s beginnings in the business. “He made sausage items that he took around to these saloons.” As word spread about Alois Thurn’s delicious German fare, he transitioned to selling his products door-to-door to the immigrant population in German Village. From there, he secured a place in the city’s Central Market, the modern-day site of Columbus’ Greyhound bus station. This move also coincided with a new home on Greenlawn Avenue for Thurn and his growing business, which by this time had outgrown the confines of his Front Street residence. Thurn’s meats were sold at the Central Market for 67 years, until the market itself closed in the mid1960s. Meanwhile, the company passed hands to Alois’ son—also named Alois—and his three sons, Robert, Paul and Leo Thurn. In its third generation of family ownership, Thurn’s stood the test of time through the city’s industrial boom and past the midway point of the 20th century. Though the city itself was changing, the Thurns remained true to the old-world values at the heart of their family business. Still, the inevitable march of progress would have a lasting effect on the business. In 1957, the Thurns learned that the newly-announced I-71 interstate would likely run right through their Greenlawn Avenue property. As a precaution, the family moved their store up the street to a different location on their property, where it still stands today. In addition to securing the future of the business, this move had an additional benefit. Once the freeway was completed, Thurn’s facility was just a stone’s throw from the I-71 exit for Greenlawn Avenue. “How do you know when you buy property in 1890 that you’re going to be on a freeway exit? It’s worked out very well for us,” Albert Thurn marveled as to the incredible luck of the business’ coincidental placement.
I ran a meat slicer down at the market when I was nine years old. You can’t do that today. All they said was, ‘watch your fingers!'
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Albert purchased the family business from his father and uncles in 1988, but his work there has been a lifelong pursuit. “Thinking back, I did it like a European apprenticeship. I went to school during the day, and two-to-three days a week after school I was here, from the time I was about… probably 10, 11 years old,” Thurn remembers of his youth. “I ran a meat slicer down at the market when I was nine years old. You can’t do that today. All they said was, ‘watch your fingers!’” In his time as keeper of this family tradition that’s lasted for more than a century, Albert remains committed to maintaining the same quality standards established by his forebears, and that his customers have come to expect. The secret to the business’ enduring success: “Hard work. A lot of hard work, and making tasty products that people appreciate,” Albert says. “If it wasn’t for the people who appreciate what we do here, I probably wouldn’t be doing it. It’s seeing the smile on their face.” For a taste of what keeps people coming back, Thurn recomends two of the store’s best selling items: bacon and ham. Fitting with the store’s German heritage, brats and smoked sausages are also a hit. Looking for something a little more “out there?” “Variety meats. Next week, there’s a class from Ohio State coming in here, and I’m teaching them how to make variety meats—that’s headcheese, souse, blood headcheese and different types of liver sausage,” Thurn explains. “We make a very good braunschweiger that we sell quite a bit of.” When those students learn how to properly combine pork trimmings into the gelatinized (and delicious) creation known as headcheese, they’ll be taking up skills that have been handed down directly from the Columbus of the 19th century. As for the shop itself, Thurn’s will be around as long as Albert has anything to say about it. “I’m going to keep going as long as I can.”
Th u r n ’s S p e c ia lty M e ats is lo c ate d at 53 0 G re e n law n Ave. Le a r n mo re at th u r n sme ats.co m.
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FA M I LY T I E S :
DING HO CANTONESE CUISINE BY J OHN M C L AUG HL I N P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SER
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ne of the city’s longest-standing Chinese restaurants, Ding Ho opened its doors on the West Side of Columbus in 1956. When Clifford Yee and Frank Yee (no relation) founded the restaurant, it was decades before General Tso’s chicken became the popular dish it is today, and years before Chinese cuisine would become common takeout fare in the area. In fact, the restaurant, which now specializes in authentic Cantonese dishes, needed to make American dishes close to half of its menu in order to succeed in those early years. “In ‘56, when we opened, about 65 percent of what we sold was Chinese food. At that time, a lot of people weren’t familiar with it, so we sold things like steak and roast turkey too,” said Stephen Yee, who now owns and operates Ding Ho alongside his twin sister, Lucy. “In my earliest memories of going to the restaurant I remember eating hamburgers, not Chinese food.” Frank and Clifford eventually passed down the restaurant to their sons, Bill Yee (Frank’s son) and Peter Yee (Clifford’s son and Stephen and Lucy’s father). Peter stepped down in 2003 due to health issues, passing his business down to his children. Several years later in 2007, Bill Yee sold his half of the business to Stephen and Lucy, making the pair the restaurant’s sole proprietors and third-generation owners. The whole Yee family is still deeply involved in their restaurant. “My dad is here every day helping us out,” Stephen said. The business changed locations more than once before settling into its Phillipi Rd. home. Originally, Ding Ho opened inside a small, converted filling station at 3705 W. Broad Street, where it operated until 1964 before moving to a nearby brick structure at 3741 W. Broad. It wasn’t until 2008 that the family decided the costs of renovating the space would be too much, and purchased the location they operate out of today. 614NOW.COM
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I was always taught that working in the restaurant could teach a work ethic, and those skills would carry over into other jobs, into your life. Stephen and Lucy said they earned their role as leaders of the family business through decades of hard work. “We grew up one block behind the old restaurant. I remember I would get out of school, go home and do my homework, and then work for a few hours every day,” Stephen said, noting that the restaurant feels more like a familial institution and rite of passage than anything else. “Out of the 28 employees that we have, nine of them are my relatives.” This includes Stephen and Lucy’s uncle, the restaurant’s current head chef. According to Stephen, family members don’t get a break if they’re caught slacking off either. In fact, he believes Ding Ho is a practical, convenient way for the Yee family to pass down its core family values. “Actually, family members usually had to work twice as hard as other employees,” he said. “I was always taught that working in the restaurant could teach a work ethic, and those skills would carry over into other jobs, into your life.” You can trace the dedication the family puts into its restaurant to the devotion of its loyal clientle. “I remember my first shift 27 years ago, I was waiting on a table and served a customer. I was really nervous, too,” Lucy recalled with a laugh, “To this day, almost 30 years later, he comes back every Friday evening and I serve him.” But it wasn’t just hard work that the twins remember gleaning from their pioneering grandfather. Although he passed away when the pair was only 11, he remembers paying careful attention to Clifford’s lessons growing up. “He taught me about everything; we grew a garden in the backyard so I learned about that, but I also learned about the value of money. He taught me to save money, how to spend wisely; I even learned about inflation from him when I was only seven years old,” Stephen remembered wryly. Today, the Cantonese restaurant’s focus falls primarily on its wide-ranging menu of Chinese items. As Chinese food became increasingly popular over the decades, Ding Ho adjusted accordingly, replacing American dishes with authentic Cantonese favorites. According to Stephen, Chinese food makes up roughly 95% of the restaurant’s sales. (A vestige of their early years as a primarily American restaurant
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remains on the “American Favorites” menu, which includes everything from salads to hamburgers, steak, pasta, and even seafood). And while the menu was mostly settled by the 1970s, Ding Ho did add the now omnipresent General Tso's Chicken to its lineup after it became a trendy dish in the area at the turn of the century. “Up until about 18 years ago, none of us had ever even heard of General Tso’s,” Stephen said. For much of its history, the eatery offered a Chinese-language menu, but they did away with it in 2017 as their Chinesespeaking customer base has dwindled in recent years. However, that’s not to say that Ding Ho doesn’t cater to its Chinese customers’ requests. “When we get people who come in and ask for something that’s not on the menu, we just run next door to [Sunrise International Market] to get whatever we need,” Stephen said. The restaurant’s signature dish is a chicken entrée known as Wor Su Gai, made up of a boneless chicken cutlet on a bed of lettuce and orange gravy, finished with scallions and crushed nuts. The recipe came from the former chef at Wings, a Chinese restaurant in Bexley, where Clifford worked for some time. Additionally, customers rave about Ding Ho’s wonton soup and egg rolls. A staple appetizer on their menu, patrons sometimes travel from out of state for Ding Ho egg rolls. “We even have customers I send egg rolls to,” Stephen said. “We pack them up and ship them.” According to Stephen, maintaining consistency in the kitchen is of the utmost importance at Ding Ho. How do they do it? By treating their employees like family. They hope that many will choose to stay as long as Clara Stephens, who has been with Ding Ho for 55 years. “She’s worked since before I was born,” Stephen said. “We actually have nine workers who have been with us for over 40 years. When people talk about restaurants that used to be good but changed, we don’t want to become that. We make sure everything says consistent, starting with our employees, who we treat well, so they stay with us.”
Ding Ho is located at 120 Phillipi Rd. For more information, visit dingho.net. 614NOW.COM
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FA M I LY T I E S :
HOGGY'S RESTAURANT & CATERING
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fter a few years of uncertainty, we’re pleased to spread the good news: Hoggy’s is back. Both the tide and the guard have changed, and the Bethel Road location is ready to take its next step. This is the story of how the Turner family created one of the most recognizable brands in Central Ohio, almost lost it, then resurrected it in a matter of 29 years. Mark Turner was just a Baltimore boy with a dream and a tenacious work ethic. From an early age, he set his sights on becoming an entrepreneur, saying he liked the idea of being his own boss and creating something he could be proud of. Mark quickly joined forces with a like-mind named Ken Smith. Together, the two entrepreneurial hopefuls set sail westward, ultimately dropping anchor in Columbus, Ohio. Meanwhile, Kathy Martinet was growing up in Cleveland as her family navigated the throngs of owning a business—a business she had no interest in being a part of. Later on, she was recruited to work at Columbus-based Express for two years. Kathy planned to return to Cleveland following her commitment, but life had other plans. One mutual friend and one Lindey’s dinner later, she became Kathy Turner. Mark and Kathy’s wedding marked the approximate beginning of Hoggy’s legacy. The first restaurant opened in 1991 at 2234 W Dublin-Granville Road in Linworth, though Kathy maintained her stance against working for family, at least at first. “I always said I would never work for my husband or in a family business,” said Kathy. “Be careful what you say.” She said her involvement in the beginning was small, but with onboarding her mother’s Mac n’ Cheese recipe (a beautiful orange mess of elbow noodles, penne pasta, cottage cheese, cheddar cheese, and sour cream), many consumers would argue that it was paramount. And if Kathy’s former boyfriend was good for 614NOW.COM
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one thing, it was his mom’s baked bean recipe. Both side dishes have been menu mainstays since Hoggy’s inception. Through the ‘90s, business was absolutely booming for Hoggy’s. At its peak, there were seven Central Ohio locations, plus stores in Cleveland and Kentucky. The restaurants were housed in massive, easily-discernible, rustic barns; some were complete with tractors suspended from the dining room ceilings, others sported windmills, still others featured farm silos. Favorites from the menu included ribs, brisket, and pulled pork. Mark was engrossed in business operations and Kathy held down the catering side of things, which was a very lucrative income for the company. All the while, the couple was raising three children. Kathy remembers these years fondly, saying she liked being with her husband every day and celebrating accomplishments together. “Mark and I are both driven to work hard, and hopefully that has set an example for our children and team members,” she said. Hoggy’s continued its sprint through the early 2000s as a main player in both the BBQ and catering scene. But alas, the economic meltdown in 2008, increasing food costs, stiff competition, and changing industry trends proved devastating for the local chain. The last of Hoggy’s sit-down restaurants closed in February 2013. “It was extremely humbling on many levels,” said Kathy. “We learned who were true friends, and many other people treated us like we had the flu. We made many changes in our life, which were not fun, but made us realize the importance of family and friends.” But after all the dust settled, the Turners were still able to keep the Hoggy’s brand alive. Catering operations consolidated inside another restaurant owned by Mark and Ken called Johnny Buccelli’s, a fast-casual Italian eatery located at 830 Bethel Rd. With the help of their youngest daughter, Jillian, Kathy stayed busy with weddings and special events. As luck would have it, the Hoggy’s catering vans parked behind Johnny Buccelli’s garnered quite the commotion from BBQ lovers, proving that the public’s hankering for the hog had not disappeard with the restaurants. Though Hoggy’s food was technically available for catering occasions only at that time, the Turners couldn’t refuse service to those who came in inquiring about the vans, hoping to score some of the bygone BBQ. Eventually, there was such an influx of Hoggy’s fans that the food found itself on Johnny Buccelli’s menu. As Hoggy’s was slowly integrating back into the mainstream, the second generation was
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stepping up to the plate. Kyle—Mark and Kathy's son and Director of Business Development and Marketing—refers to his initial involvement in Hoggy’s as an accident. “I went to college and did econ because I didn’t want to do food,” he said. He was actually pursuing an internship in technology when he first joined the team in 2017. But not only did his family need him; having grown up around Hoggy’s—even working there in middle and high school—Kyle was more than familiar with the company. This industry intimacy made him the perfect candidate to shake things up, which is exactly what this new iteration of Hoggy’s desperately needed. Kyle began his tenure by plugging the marketing hole. In turn, this revealed one glaring problem that he believed had to be resolved in order to keep the ship afloat: Johnny Buccelli’s. At the time, customers walking into the restaurant could order from the Johnny B’s menu: Lasagna, subs, soups, paninis; and from a limited Hoggy’s menu: ribs, brisket, mac ‘n’ cheese. Then at one point, Kyle said there was talk of adding burgers to the menu, and he had to put his foot down—the concept was far too confusing for consumers. He gave a bit of an ultimatum. “Either we improve this food and get rid of Johnny B’s, or I’m wasting my time here,” he said. The choice was easy when the Turners crunched the numbers and discovered Hoggy’s menu items were far outperforming Johnny B’s. But Hoggy’s return wasn’t as simple as that. Once the menu was fully converted over to BBQ, Kyle saw further room for improvement in the quality of the food. “We took a really hard look at ourselves and we decided that we could do better,” Kyle said.
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Kyle’s goal was to glean inspiration from local BBQ powerhouses like Ray Ray’s and City BBQ, plus look into how places like Texas and Brooklyn were preparing meats. Next, he secured a talented chef who was also willing to entertain direction (or “BS,” as Kyle called it) from a young person. Then there was the matter of the space, which still bore a serious resemblance to a sub shop. Kyle played point guard in the renovations of the space, while Kathy contributed her “Martha Stewart” flare in interior design. “I am thankful that [Kyle] made a decision not to listen to me,” said Kathy. “He is an integral part of the organization.” With the menu and the dining room in order, it was finally time to shed the final memories of Hoggy’s previous era. The Johnny B’s sign that hung outside was officially taken down at the end of February. The new Hoggy’s is still very much a work in progress. The Turners work everyday to win back customers who felt slighted when the original restaurants closed, iron out kinks with the recent renovations, and continually improve food quality and perfect recipes. While Kyle was a catalyst in the Hoggy’s resurgence, he said none of it would be possible without his dad’s skills and refusal to quit. “If you want to give credit as to how it’s still here, he’s the one who clawed his way back,” he said. Admittedly, Kyle never imagined working for his mom and dad. There are even times when the family ties feel a little too tight.
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Mark and I are both driven to work hard, and hopefully that has set an example for our children and team members. “I could breath a certain way and that’s just the worst thing I’ve done all day,” he said with a laugh. But at the end of the day, family comes first for the Turners, and they wouldn’t have it any other way. “I couldn't ask for a better experience than this,” he said. You know what they say: blood is thicker than BBQ sauce.
Hoggy’s is located at 830 Bethel Rd. Visit hoggys.com for more information. 614NOW.COM
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FA M I LY T I E S :
TAT RISTORANTE DI FAMIGLIA BY J.R. MC M I L L A N P HOTOS BY B R I A N KA I SER
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n 1929, the iconic, art deco skyscraper we now know as LeVeque Tower was more than just a monument of modern engineering; it was a landmark visible up to 20 miles away in the early days of passenger aviation, and why Transcontinental Air Transport chose Columbus as its new Midwest crossroads. Promising travel from New York to Los Angeles in 48 hours through a network of trains and planes, aircraft emblazoned with the “TAT” logo flew low over “Flytown”, a working class community of immigrants who figuratively and literally lived in the shadow of the latest, lavish addition to the city skyline. Italian, Greek, and Lebanese neighbors mingled among the Irish who preceded them, as well as African Americans fleeing the Deep South. Though the community is all but forgotten, ultimately leveled by urban planners in the name of progress, a different kind of monument remains—because this was also the year that Pete and Philomena Corrova opened TAT Ristorante Di Famiglia. Long since relocated to the corner of James and Livingston where Bexley and Whitehall meet, it’s still thriving nearly a century later. 614NOW.COM
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“My father saw the planes overhead with TAT on the side, so that’s what he decided to name his restaurant. About ten years ago I started telling everybody it means ‘take any table,’” said Jimmy Corrova, whose parents’ original restaurant has become part of local culinary folklore. “My father was the first to bring pizza to Columbus. In the old country, you’d take leftover dough, stretch it, squeeze a little tomato on it, add some basil, maybe anchovy, and that was it. Now, you can put anything on a pizza.” Family restaurants rarely fail so much as fade away. Not so with the Corrovas. Jimmy, his wife Dolores, their children and grandchildren are all part of the TAT legacy. Jimmy still insists on seasoning the sauces himself, and Dolores arrives hours before the doors open every day. Daughters Marianne and Michelle run the front and back of the house, respectively. They know their regulars by name, and often their orders before they’re seated. It’s a passion and consistency that can’t be bought, only handed down from one generation to the next. The Corrova influence spread throughout Central Ohio, from the former Antone’s in Worthington to Gatto’s in Clintonville, both started by extended family members. Even the Florentine in Franklinton was started by cousins. Jimmy revealed he nearly bought the business back in 2016 when it closed, lamenting the loss of the West Side landmark. “I’ll never knock another restaurant. Everyone has their own tastes, but we prefer to do things the way we always have,” Jimmy explained. “All of our ravioli and spaghetti are homemade. We still seal the edges with a fork and cut our own spaghetti. We roll every meatball by hand.” The menu is exhaustive and inclusive, and contains far more than just the classics. From piccata to polenta, salmon to scallops; there are even two kinds of lasagna. The first is exactly what you would expect—expertly executed. But there’s also a “special lasagna” with a recipe modified due to rationing during WWII that proved so popular, they never stopped serving it. The only thing you’ll find that hasn’t been on the menu since before fenders had flares are several gluten-free options, evidence that TAT isn’t opposed to change, but hasn’t lost touch with why it’s still around either. Perhaps the only other item that may seem out of place is their famous “poor boy.” If you want the story behind the signature sandwich, no one tells it better than the Sicilian who invented it, and even has the trademark to prove it. “When I was in high school, there were a bunch of us Italians and a couple of Irish boys who all sat at the same table for lunch. But we got tired of the sloppy joes and hot dogs they 84
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served,” Jimmy recalled. “So Eddie Carfagna brought real deli meat from his family’s grocery, I brought the Italian bread, and we all made sandwiches. We were all poor, so we called it a “poor boy.” After I graduated, we added them to the menu and sold them for 50 cents. We’d sell them by the dozens. We had them on special for our 90th Anniversary last year and sold 2,000 in a weekend.” Not to be confused with its Creole cousin the po’ boy, of which he was unaware at the time, Jimmy had the foresight to trademark the name “poor boy” and its constituent ingredients. They’re still a big seller, and were among the earliest foray into TAT’s brisk takeout business. But success breeds imitators, including a guy who soon started shipping frozen sandwiches made from cheaper cuts of meat to local grocery chains under the same name. Jimmy sent him a cease and desist, and ultimately sued him for $100k. “Word got out about the lawsuit, and I was at Romeo Siri’s in Grandview when I was asked outside and told to drop the case because it had been fixed,” Jimmy laughed. “I sued him anyway and I won.” The judge awarded Jimmy $96,000, but it took him six years to receive his money, and his earnings were whittled down as he paid back the folks who’d helped ensure his victory. “I only ended up with $10k. But that’s more than I had, and it’s still my sandwich.” Everything about TAT is on-brand. A step inside is a step back in time, from the service to the soundtrack. Loyal staff measure their tenure in decades, and songs from the ‘50s fill the family-style dining room that echoes a bygone era. Jimmy dresses the part of dapper don as though casual Friday was a conspiracy—and if he shakes your hand once, he’ll likely remember your face for the rest of his days. The family quips they may need to open a drive-thru, noting a car’s recent close encounter with their men’s room wall. But they’re in no hurry to change anything, and that’s
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Everyone has their own tastes, but we prefer to do things the way we always have. All of our ravioli and spaghetti are homemade. We still seal the edges with a fork and cut our own spaghetti. We roll every meatball by hand.
probably what customers appreciate most. Their salad dressings are so beloved, they don’t just sell them by the bottle, but ship them all over the country. One faithful patron was so concerned about missing her favorite meals while out of town for several weeks, TAT's actually prepared her regular order in advance and froze enough so she could take them with her. When she passed away, they dedicated the booth where she sat and hung her picture next to it. Customers eventually become part of the Corrova family. There may be no more fitting metaphor for TAT’s longevity than the giant, commercial mixer in the back of the kitchen. Jimmy bought it second hand for $50 from a local bakery decades ago, but it turned out to be so heavy he needed a tow truck to move it. Then the owner didn’t have the heart to charge him for it, so he ended up getting it free. They’re still using today, but Jimmy honestly didn’t know how old it really was until our interview. Upon closer inspection, we found a weathered brass plaque that read, “Century Machine Company, Cincinnati, Ohio, August 22, 1922”. The irony did not escape Jimmy Corrova. “If you build it right, it will probably last forever.”
TAT Ristorante Di Famiglia is located at 1210 S James Road. For more on its menu and history, visit tatitalianrestaurantcolumbus.com 614NOW.COM
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FA M I LY T I E S :
AUDDINO’S ITALIAN BAKERY BY M I TC H HOOP ER P HOTOS BY BR I A N KA I SER
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t ’s 6 p.m. and Rosario “Roy” Auddino is starting his work day. He says he’ll cut himself off of coffee before 9 p.m., but he’ll switch to Cokes as an alternative. He buzzes around the industrial bakery shouting questions and commands to a crew as they battle against time. It’s the ultimate form of time efficiency; not a step is wasted and there’s not a minute to sit around. When it comes to making money while the sun is still out, it requires burning the midnight oil. He has to be finished before the next crew comes in for cleaning, packaging, and all the rest, but this is nothing new for Roy. He’s been training for this since he was born. Roy is the current co-owner of Auddino’s Italian Bakery, a longstanding establishment in Columbus that has surely had its bread or pizza crusts make their way onto your plate. Alongside him in ownership are his two brothers Dante and Marco. If you’ve ever dined at J. Alexander's, had a sub from Massey’s, or shared a Buckeye Box from Adriatico’s, you’ve had one of Auddino’s famous recipes. And when it comes to Auddino’s history, all roads lead back to family. It started with Roy’s parents, Michael and Rosa Auddino. The two grew up in the same town in Italy as friends. And their road to America was full of challenges. “[My dad’s] first pair of shoes came when he was seven years old,” Roy recalled. “My mom’s family immigrated with her brothers and sisters to Ellis Island, the last of those days, in the early '60s. They were quarantined and separated from [each other] for 14 days. It was devastating for her.”
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Other kids had Easter; we had the bakery. Other kids had Christmas; we had the bakery. We didn't have babysitters; we had the bakery.
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Michael’s arrival in America took a different route. After growing up in Italy, he moved to Germany where he worked odd jobs to make ends meet. Eventually, these endeavors led him to the bakery where he would learn to become a full-time baker. He decided to make another move; this time across the pond from Germany to Toronto. Interestingly enough, this move to Canada also reignited his connections to his future wife’s family, who was residing in Columbus. “It led into courtship, her and him got married, and then he moved from Canada to here working odd end jobs,” Roy explained. “They used to go to Linden Community Bakery in 1965. That was their date. My dad would come down to visit and the two would go there.” Little did they know, the Linden Community Bakery would lead to a career. The owner of bakery told the couple that he would be closing down shop in the near future due to kidney problems, and offered it up to them. Michael was an experienced baker, but there were concerns. “My dad didn’t have the money,” Roy said. “So my mom was [working] at Lazarus, got a loan for $500, and bought Linden Community Bakery for my dad.” Ever since that fateful day, it’s been a complete and total family affair. “Other kids had Easter; we had the bakery. Other kids had Christmas; we had the bakery,” Roy said. “We didn’t have babysitters; we had the bakery.” Roy recalls seeing photos of himself as young as two days old, where his mom is breastfeeding him in one arm, and rolling out loaves of bread with the other. By the time Roy was six, he would be working alongside his relatives on the daily tasks. And by the time he had hit the ripe age of 10, Roy was working delivery routes and even driving the truck at times. He even met his eventual wife, Taura, through Auddino’s connections with other local businesses. It didn’t take long before he knew he was going to be the eventual successor of the bakery. “I knew in my early 20s that my brother and I were probably going to be the next generation owners. You just kind of get that gut feeling,” Roy said. “It’s not something you think or plan ahead for. It just happens and you grow into it.” Now the process for baking and delivering bread is on an industrial level. Auddino’s houses eight massive ovens which can hold large racks of unbaked bread. This process works like a well-oiled machine. As one rack of bread is finishing in the oven, a properly proofed rack is pulled out in preparation, and an unrised rack of bread is placed into the 120 degree warmer to encourage leavening. Each finished rack is taken to its designated spot awaiting the 5 a.m. crew to arrive and bag them. Roy stays on top of all of this. He knows exactly what to do in any baking crisis, exactly who and where each individual loaf is going, and inside secrets from popular restaurants on how they prepare Auddino's products. Hell, he even knows how to operate a zamboni. When you’ve worked for a place for more than 50 years, you learn a thing or two, Roy joked.
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Roy and Taura are parents of five children. If Roy’s childhood is any indicator of what his children’s lives would be like growing up, it should come as no surprise that they find ways to help out around the bakery. Two of his older sons, Michael and Antonio, are currently in college, which they were able to help finance by working at the bakery. They will also use what they are learning in college to take Auddino’s to the next level, which will focus more on marketing and expanding. If you’ve been waiting for a second location of Auddino’s, hold tight; Roy said it’s something they are planning for in the future. The family involvement both transcends and continues through generations. Rosa is still no stranger around the retail shop, despite her age. Michael and Rosa have gone as far as planning separate vacations to ensure one is always near the bakery to lend a hand. Carley, Roy’s daughter, also works parttime on the retail side of the family business as she works her way through college. Taura’s family is, and has been, heavily involved; in its original iteration, her brothers helped deliver bread around town. Roy said these efforts are the reason Auddino’s has been able to stick around against corporate giants such as Wonder Bread. “We’ve had companies lowball us. They’d go, ‘You sell it for $3.50 a dozen?’ Then they’d come in and sell it for $2.99 a dozen just to take the customer away,” Roy said. “And it has happened. It only lasts for so long; they come back for our product.” Of course, working with family isn’t always sunshine and rainbows. As Roy put it, when you work with family, everyone is right. There’s also hardly a chance for call-offs here. Everyone has a job to do, and it must be done or there’s a risk of bottlenecking the process. While tensions may flair and disagreements might arise, the common goal of protecting and growing Michael and Rosa’s bakery always outweighs the rest. Roy emphasized the weight a second-generation owner carries, noting that many establishments fall through this transitional period. He’s making sure that’s not going to happen at Auddino’s. Whether it’s nurturing relationships as old as the bakery itself with local partners, expanding their services into different regions of Ohio, or planning for the future with his own children, it seems Auddino’s is here to stay for another generational go-around. “I like to think of it as my mom and dad started the row boat, my brothers and I came around and put sails on it, and now we are going to give the next generation the boat to sail in it,” Roy said. “It's going from hard labor to using the brain instead of hard labor with the wind, and then, all aboard.”
Au d d in o ’s I ta lia n B a ke r y is lo c ate d at 1490 C la ra St.
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IT’S A
Family affair I
BY M I K E TH O M AS
f outsiders think midwest dining is all chain restaurants and strip malls, Columbus eaters are lucky enough to know better. Sure, the capital city may have its fair share of Applebees and the like, but Central Ohio is also home to a plethora of unique family-owned and operated eateries with flavors and traditions all their own. Safeguarded and passed on from one generation to the next, the many great family-run establishments in the city could never be contained to the pages of a single magazine issue. Here are just a few of the intergenerational purveyors that make food a family affair. Because—to paraphrase a claim from a well-known chain—when you’re eating here, you’re actually family (or at least likely to meet them).
T H E T H URMAN C A F E 1 8 3 T H U R M A N AV E .
Darling of Food Network “best burger” shows and the Terminator himself, The Thurman Cafe (or just “Thurman’s,” to friends) is a Columbus institution. Generations of burger fiends have queued up outside of this German Village landmark for a taste of its signature patties since Nick Suclescy first opened up shop in 1942. The home of Columbus’ favorite burger has stayed in the family ever since, staying true to the roots that first made the spot a hit over seven decades ago.
SC H MI D T ’S
2 4 0 E KO S S U T H S T. Schmidt’s Sausage Haus und Restaurant has been brandishing brats in German Village since July of 1967, but the brand’s roots stretch back much further. Born just north of Frankfurt, Germany, J. Fred Schmidt settled in Columbus in the early 1880s and quickly got to work establishing one of the city’s finest meat-packing operations. From their stand at the Ohio State Fair which has fed hungry fairgoers since 1914 (and stands as the second-oldest concessions booth at the Fair) to the signature German Village restaurant, Schmidt’s remains a landmark eatery in Central Ohio in its fifth generation as a family-run establishment.
R I T ZY’S
4 6 1 5 N H I G H S T. Originally known as G.D.Ritzy's when founded by Graydon Webb in 1981, Ritzy's saw a revival in 2018 when Webb’s sons Corey and Bryan decided to join him on a new culinary adventure. This classic diner experience brings a taste of “Happy Days” to Clintonville with its fresh, crispy edged hamburgers, hand-cut shoestring fries, and award-winning ice cream. Whether you’re looking to relive the greaser glory days of the 1950s, or simply eager to cure your craving from the days of the original Ritzy’s, this family-run diner proves that good things come to those who wait.
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THE THURMAN CAFE | PHOTO BY COLLINS LAATSCH
SCHMIDT'S | PHOTO BY JULIAN FOGLIETTI
RITZY'S | PHOTO BY BRIAN KAISER
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FOOD WIRE NOW OPEN There is always more room in Columbus for ways to satisfy a sweet tooth and Dulce Vida Ice Cream, located on 1127 N. High St., stands as the Short North’s most recent dessert-centric opening. The unique, familyowned ice cream shop specializes in fruit-forward treats like the “Crazy Pineapple,” berry paletas, and Mangonada. Dulce Vida also serves hot foods like Mexican Street Corn, tamales, walking tacos, and tortas. Downtown also plays host to a new spot boasting Latin bites as Palmas Tropical Escape opened at 46 N. High St. Palmas will also host events like Latin Vinyl Happy Hour, Latino Nights, and the Columbus Tango Festival. Meanwhile, Hilliard welcomes in its first brewery as Crooked Can, an Orlando-based brewery, opened its doors at 5354 Center St. The 4,000-square-foot taproom currently has a handful of brews available, with plans to roll out a total of 16 in the future. When the weather improves, guests can enjoy their High Stepper American IPAs and McSwagger’s Own Amber Ales on Crooked Can’s 7,000-square-foot patio. The Pit BBQ—owned by former Buckeyes Chimid Chekwa and Bryant Browning, and their pals D’Andre Martin and Mike Johnson—is making moves in the city, too. Their newest location on 1542 Parsons Ave. is now open and ready to serve fresh smoked meats.
COMING SOON The Dublin North Market announcements just don’t stop! Four more
vendors were announced since the last Stock & Barrel as Flowers & Bread, Black Radish Creamery, Falafel Kitchen, and Dos Hermanos all will be setting up shop in the new North Market. Hot Chicken Takeover will be continuing its takeover of Columbus as it announced plans to expand into a new location in Westerville this summer at 435 Polaris Parkway. This will be the company’s fourth Columbus location and fifth overall (it recently opened a store in Cleveland). There are also rumblings of Alchemy adding a third location, as it was recently approved by the Board of Zoning Adjustments for a spot on 2701 Indianola Ave. in Clintonville. This new location, however, will not feature juices and smoothies and will instead focus more on coffee and pastries, as reported by Columbus Business First. The new location on Parsons Ave. isn’t all that’s in store for The Pit BBQ as it also announced plans open in Clintonville on 4219 N. High St. And in that same breath: The Pit BBQ isn’t the only new restaurant on Parsons Ave; on 1540 Parsons Ave., J’s Sweet Treats held a soft opening in late February. Stay tuned on 614now.com for updates!
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BY STOC K & BAR R E L STA F F
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