25 a (614) magazine
F I R E F O O D S – A L L T H I N G S S M O K Y, S P I C Y, & G R I L L E D
Fall 2020
CONTENTS 35
FIRE FOODS
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THE TAILGATE GOES ON
SEEING RED
Game or no game, these foods will have you cheering.
We heard it through the grapefine that these are the best local spots for red wine.
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In this issue, we cover all things smoky, spicy, & grilled. From diabolical desserts to smoked cheese, there's something hot for everyone. COVER PHOTO BY JULIAN FOGLIETTI
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KITCHEN KITS
DEATH BY BACON
Enjoy DIY fine dining in your own home with these self-assembled meals.
A local restaurant gets creative with three courses for bacon lovers.
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MOBILE IMBIBES
BLUE RIBBON BLUES
We share six cocktails for at home happy hour vibes.
Upset about missing out on fair foods last season? We share how to find your favorites.
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From the Editor PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis
STEPHANIE WEST Editor-In-Chief
Stories—and food—by the fire Back in the early 2000s, Anthropologist Polly Wiessner spent 174 days living with the Ju/’hoan (!Kung) Bushmen of Botswana and Namibia. In 2014, she wrote a paper on her research and the results were published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. Her results probably explain why we were so drawn to having a “fire” issue for the fall release of Stock & Barrel. According to Wiessner, our ancient ancestors 400,000 years ago were drawn to the campfire for many reasons—cooking food, comfort, security, warmth, but, also, stories. In fact, said Wiessner, stories by the fireside is likely where the human race learned how to relate to and understand one another, as well as cooperate and learn cultural cues. As it turns out, fireside chats may not just be where we tell scary stories, but the place where we have shaped our entire society and how we relate to each other. Wiessner developed these conclusions during her study when she recorded bushmen conversations both day and at night, then compared them. Wiessner found that 75 percent of daytime conversations were work-related; but, at night, it was more focused on “singing, dancing, spirituality or ‘enthralling stories, often about known people,’ including tales about ‘the exploits of distant kin, adventures in towns, local politics, truck stories, elephant stories, or experiences in trance.’” Wiessner said of the experience: Fireside gatherings are often, although not always, composed of people of mixed sexes and ages. The moon and starlit skies awaken imagination of the supernatural, as well as a sense of vulnerability to malevolent spirits, predators, and antagonists countered by security in numbers. Body language is dimmed by firelight and awareness of self and others is reduced. Facial expressions—flickering with the flames—are either softened, or in the case of fear or anguish, accentuated. Agendas of the day are dropped while small children fall asleep in the laps of kin. Whereas time structures interactions by
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EDITOR IN CHIEF Stephanie West ASSISTANT EDITOR Allison Grimes
day because of economic exigencies, by night social interactions structure time and often continue until relationships are right. Foragers make use of daytime efficiently and nighttime effectively. So, you see, it’s an ancestral calling to want to sit fireside with family and friends during the cool, fall evenings and tell tales to one another about each other, about life, and sometimes, about ghosts. It’s also in our genes to cook and eat by the glow of a flame—think of the last romantic or intimate dinner you had. Eating and talking while a dancing flame lit your faces probably felt perfectly natural. Yeah, us too. And, thus, the fall issue of Stock & Barrel came to be. What better way, we thought, to help our readers to connect to their family and friends this fall season than over a well-stoked fire with all the foods we love the most? From elevating the classic s’more to grilling fireside with Columbus chef Avishar Barua, we’ve got you covered. But, we thought, why stop there? Where there’s fire, there’s bound to be smoke—so local foodie and (614) writer Jack McLaughlin walks readers through home smoking while writer Lori Schmidt dishes on all the best smoked cheeses with John Reese, the owner and culinary director of Black Radish Creamery.
614NOW DIGITAL EDITOR Lori Schmidt 614 CAMPUS EDITOR Nicholas Youngblood CONTRIBUTORS Jaelani Turner-Williams Lindsay Escaja Melinda Green Jack McLaughlin Melissa Braithwaite LEAD DESIGNER Sarah Moore CREATIVE DESIGNERS Justin Remotap Paul Barton DIRECTOR OF VIDEO John Thorne VIDEO EDITOR Maddy Van Buren ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nikki Harris Mindy Wilhite Kelly Robson
And, of course, there’s the fire in your mouth—and by that we mean, all the spicy things hot peppers create that light you up on the inside. From diabolical desserts with a spicy touch to hot sauces that will make you cry, writer Melinda Green gives you the down low on all things Columbus that bring the heat. It’s a culinary cornucopia of fire, readers, and we hope you love it. We hope you take this issue and plant yourself fireside with your favorite people soon—you won’t regret the tradition of spinning tales, toasting s’mores, and just simply being together. As Wiessner wrote in her report, “Appetites for firelit settings for intimate conversations and for evening stories remain with us today.”
(614) MAGAZINE 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 Fax: (614) 488-4402
It’s time to light the fire, Columbus. Enjoy the fall season.
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Email submissions to: editor@614columbus.com www.614columbus.com
STAFF PICKS BY STO C K & B A R R E L STA F F
Perfectly grilled steak or delicious, crisp bacon?
It’s the fire issue and what’s better than a steak grilled over an open flame? Some of you already know the answer: BACON. So we put the question to our staff: If it’s your last meal, which do you choose—a perfectly grilled steak or delicious, crisp bacon? And yes, we had a Vegan answer this question, too. His answer will show you his dedication to a meatless diet.
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Perfectly cooked ribeye, grilled over an open fire with a basil garlic wet rub. Pair it with a bottle of Flysch Txakoli (whites can work with steak too) and a better meal is hard to come by.
GIVE ME A VEGAN OPTION (that's not a mushroom) OR GIVE ME DEATH
Julian Foglietti
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Staff Photographer
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I suppose given that it would be my last meal, I'd go with whatever took longer to eat, so the steak.
Lori Schmidt
614Now Digital Editor
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Easy.....grilled steak with gorgonzola cheese on top!!!
Kelly Robson
Account Executive
Justin Remotap Graphic Designer BACON!
Mindy Wilhite Account Executive
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Steak, of course! Unless I can wrap the steak in the bacon, then I'll go with that.
Nicholas Youngblood 614 Campus Editor
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A perfectly grilled steak. Obvi.
Allison Grimes Assistant Editor
PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING
↑ Mugolio Pine Cone Bud Syrup, available at Quinci Emporium, is created by forager Eleonora Cunaccia in the heart of the Dolomite Alps National Park in Trento, Italy. Full of sweet mountain flavors, its perfect on meats and cocktails. 10
↑ Beeswax Wrap, available at TigerTree, is a great sustainable option for replacing your disposable food wraps with a decision that's better for the environment and, we think, a better experience all around.
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↑ Piri Piri Chile, available at North Market Spices Ltd, is also known as the bird's eye, African devil, or African red devil, the piri piri is a small, hot pepper. Perfect for making hot sauces.
↑ Whatever this is (Collapsible Coffee Dripper), available at Outer Space probably, Tiger Tree definitely, is a simple, no fuss coffee dripper that is easy to fold, easy to store, fits any filter size and pairs well with any kitchen decor. It's perfect for traveling and camping.
CAL ENDA R SLICE OF PIZZA PASSPORT SEPT
01 NOV 30 OCT
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10 DEC
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LOCATION: Varies PRICE: Starts at $30 The 30th Anniversary of Slice of Pizza will be a passport program this year. The event benefits pediatric research at the Abigail Wexner Research Institute at Nationwide Children’s Hospital. The pizza passport will be your ticket to visit some of Columbus’s favorite pizza shops while working to reach fun incentive levels along the way. Learn more at the hospital’s giving event calendar at nationwidechildrens.org
LIGHTS & FLIGHTS LOCATION: The Candle Lab & Wine on High PRICE: $30 Pour your own custom-scented 8oz candle with The Candle Lab Scent Stylists. You’ll design your label and mix your oils to create your custom scent, which you’ll then pour and stir. Enjoy a specialty flight of 3 wines at Wine on High while the candles cool. Learn more at thecandlelab.com under events.
TASTE OF BEXLEY OCT
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LOCATION: Varies PRICE: Varies The 2020 edition will happen at home. No Tickets, no RSVP, no fancy attire. This year, the action takes place via carryout services at all of your favorite Bexley area restaurants. *Be sure to mention 'Taste of Bexley' at checkout to receive your special or discount! Learn more at bexleyareachamber.org under events.
BOO AT THE ZOO OCT
16 NOV 01
LOCATION: Presented by bubly at Columbus Zoo and Aquarium PRICE: Varies Enjoy Halloween candy and snacks at the annual Boo at the Zoo celebration that’s a “merry-notscary” event that will transform the Zoo into a Halloween wonderland during the weekends. Boo at the Zoo will begin at 5 p.m. on Fridays and 10 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. The festivities will continue into the evening all weekend, closing at 9 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays and 8 p.m. on Sundays. Learn more at columbuszoo.org. 614NOW.COM
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PHOTO BY JULIAN FOGLIETTI
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WHAT'S YOUR RECIPE? Island Style Hot Sauce WAY N E T. L E W I S Publisher
Publisher Wayne Lewis gives us the heat with his Island-style Pineapple/Mango/Habanero Hot Sauce HEAT SCALE
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One of my favorite alltime sauces, it’s sweet with a soft heat and a beautiful blend of Carribean-themed spices. Goes incredibly with scrambled eggs and tacos.
INGREDIENT S 5 habanero peppers chopped with seeds 1 Ghost pepper, chopped (no seeds)
1⁄4 c apple cider vinegar 1⁄4 c champagne vinegar 1⁄4 c water
1.5 c mango peeled and chopped (make sure it’s ripe and sweet)
2 tbsp honey
1.5 c Pineapple chopped
½ tsp allspice
3⁄4 c white onion chopped
1.5 tsp pureed minced ginger or 1tsp powdered
4 cloves garlic chopped
¼ tsp cumin
1 tsp salt
INS T RU C T IO N S
Add all ingredients to food processor. Process until smooth. Add to a pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Cool then transfer to sterilized serving bottles. Will last up to a year in the fridge.
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Ode to the Pumpkin The Jack-o'-All-Trades fall veggie BY MELISSA BRA ITHWA I T E
• Sure, it seems like pumpkin is everywhere during the autumn season and with good reason. The fall holiday ushers in pumpkin carving, pumpkin pies, and pumpkin-spice flavored everything. There are many ways to use this perennially popular fall fruit, and local establishments are capitalizing off of the seasonal gem. Let’s go beyond the pie and take a look at some savory ways you can use this delightful fall vegetable and then some sweet places in Columbus to get your dessert fix.
SAVORY
In culinary circles, pumpkins are known for their versatility. Not only can they be used to make sweet treats, but they also shine in savory delights. Here are a couple of pumpkin-forward recipes to get your gourd on at home. →
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CRISPY PUMPKIN WINGS We know this sounds strange, but trust us on this one. Pumpkin butter adds a subtle but complex sweet/savory flavor that might even go unrecognized. The crispy breadcrumb and sesame-seed coating lends a crunchy texture to these delicious chicken wings. Simply use ½ c. store-bought or homemade pumpkin butter, 1 egg, ½ c. sesame seeds, ⅔ c. panko breadcrumbs, 1 tbsp. flour, 2 garlic cloves, 1 ½ tsp. kosher salt and 3 lbs. chicken wings. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Whisk together the pumpkin butter and egg. In a shallow bowl, combine flour, breadcrumbs, garlic, salt and sesame seeds. Dip each wing into the pumpkin mixture and then into the sesame-seed mixture to coat. Place them on a cooling rack atop a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes and then broil on high for a few minutes until wings are brown.
TH E TE RM 'P UM P K I N' E NCO M PASS E S M ANY VARI ETI E S O F S Q UAS H .
S AV O R Y P U M P K I N H U M M U S Grab your food processor and whip up this bright, nutritious fall dip. You will need a can of garbanzo beans (rinsed and peeled), reserved aquafaba (liquid from the chickpeas), ¾ c. pumpkin puree, ⅓ c. tahini, 1 clove garlic, ½ lemon ( juiced), pinch of salt and 2 tbsp. olive oil. Add the peeled chickpeas and the tahini to the food processor and pulse until combined. Add in the pumpkin puree, lemon juice, garlic and salt. Continue pulsing. Add the aquafaba 1 tbsp at a time and pulse to thin out the hummus to desired consistency. •
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SWEET Cherbourg Bakery
Katalina’s
P U M P K I N C H O CO L AT E CHIP BAR
P U M P K I N -A P P L E B U T T E R PA N C A K E B A L L S
This delectable confection gives the impression of pumpkin without being overly spiced. The chocolate chips add a burst of sweetness to the brownie-like bar. This cheery little bakery is a dedicated gluten-, and nut-free facility.
Fill your balls with homemade pumpkin-apple butter for a quintessential autumn-in-Columbus breakfast. Add Katalina’s thick-cut Original Sweet ‘N’ Spicy Bacon for a crunchy sweet and savory mouth explosion.
P U M P K I N C H O CO L AT E CHIP CAKE This spice-cake adjacent pastry packs a pumpkin-spice punch that blends perfectly with the chocolate chips. It has the sweetness of a pumpkin pie with a palatable chocolate accent.
Mozart's
M A R Z I PA N P U M P K I N S
D O N ' T FO R GE T T H E SE E DS ! R OASTE D P U M P K I N S E EDS C AN B E US E D I N A VARI ETY O F D I S H E S FRO M SAVO RY TO SWEET.
This delicate pastry is filled with luscious pumpkin spice buttercream and wrapped in house-made almond marzipan, which has a lovely sweet, nutty flavor and a soft texture. These little pumpkins are almost too pretty to eat. Almost.
BOURBON PUMPKIN TART WITH WALNUT STREUSEL This delicate pastry is filled with luscious pumpkin spice buttercream and wrapped in house-made almond marzipan, which has a lovely sweet, nutty flavor and a soft texture. These little pumpkins are almost too pretty to eat. Almost.
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P UM P K I N C AN E AS I LY BE BO I LED, ROASTE D, STUFFE D, O R P URÉ ED
Cup O Joe
PUMPKIN CHAI Sure, you can always go to that corporate coffee chain down the street to pick up a PSL, but why would you do that when you can get a seasonal pumpkin chai from Cup O Joe? Simply described as “pumpkin pie in a cup,” this popular beverage is like a warm sweater on a chilly fall day with a hit of caffeine. •
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THE TAILGATE
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The best foods for football or the Columbus Crew
BY JACK MCLAUGHL I N
T
here’s an irreplaceable magic that comes along with Columbus gameday Saturdays in the Fall. The city, awash in scarlet and gray, is electric; students and alumni and strangers mingle in the sardine-packed sidewalks and lawns of campus home to watch the Buckeyes play. And the suddenly alive parking lot of Ohio Stadium becomes home to one of the greatest compliments to American sporting events, evident by a single whiff of the air: tailgating. While this year will look different, and your tailgating group may go from 50 to 10, there are still games to be played and beers to be drunk with those closest to you—and in your pod of COVID-friendly people. On that note, (614) sat down with a slate of die-hard Columbus tailgaters to figure out a handful of unique and exciting tailgate dishes to try this Fall.
GAMEDAY SLIDERS Anyone who’s stepped foot in central Ohio for more than about an hour has probably learned that Columbus is the birthplace and current headquarters of White Castle hamburgers. The slider, as its known, is one of the more pleasing fast food items, but you can go ahead and For Renee Conner, tailgating before Buckeyes games was always part of Saturdays in the Fall. After her son Nick Conner joined the Buckeyes roster in 2015 as a promising four-star linebacker prospect, it kicked things into a whole new gear. “We’ve been tailgating for the last 15 years; in 2015 my son became a Buckeye, and that’s when it became more than just tailgating,” she said. And the proud Buckeye parent’s favorite tailgating food? You guessed it. Sliders. “It was my favorite food hands down,” Conner said. And while some simply purchase the burgers from the restaurant, the distinct miniature patties can also be made in a tailgate setting. To achieve their signature thinness, you’ll want to roll out ground beef until it’s roughly ¼ Inch thick, and slice patties off this,but not before poking 4-5 small holes in each burger. This allows steam to escape without swelling the burgers. As far as the onions go, run white onion pieces through a food processor, and proceed to cook these in a skillet with beef bouillon to achieve savory, aromatic perfection.
TAILGATE HIBACHI. YOU READ IT RIGHT. And while Columbus lives and dies by the Buckeyes, don’t for a second think they’re the other team to get in on the tailgating love. In recent years, soccer has enjoyed a meteoric rise in popularity in the states, and Columbus— with the Crew—is not different.
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One of the great things about the sport is it’s worldliness: it’s the most popular game throughout the world, and a connection to soccer at the professional level offers a unique but undeniable connection to a host of farflung countries. And it shows in the pregame food. You can find Kelly Foust and husband David—in any normal year—parked outside of Mapfre Stadium on the city’s North side, before every one of the team’s home games. The Fousts are members of the Nordecke, the name given to the team’s fan base that leads the crowd in chants and decorates the stadium with painted banners. “Our favorite aspect of tailgating is that it feels like a family reunion. In a world full of busy schedules, it's a set 17 days where we know that we will see some of our closest friends,” she said. And the Fousts’ favorite tailgate food from their time with the Nordecke is none other than mobile Hibachi. Portable hibachi grills are widely available on the Internet, and the best way to impress 100 of your closest face-painted friends is with an onion volcano on the grill (which Foust claims is always a hit). Remember, when cooking with Hibachi, a large amount of flavoring is contributed through the oils used. Try sesame oil to give your food a flavor kick. A great—and portable—gameday recipe to try out is the perennially favorited chicken skewers. Combine your favorite veggies with soy-marinated chicken on the grill, and serve in skewers.
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A TONY’S TAILGATE CLASSIC One of the great things about Buckeye tailgates is the tradition (and of course the delicious recipes) passed down to younger fans. Jeff Nygren is testament to this. Since he was an OSU student in the mid 2000s, Jeff has been attending the tailgate with longtime friend Leanna Poirier. Her parents, Tony and Lori Lacovetta have established one of the longer-running tailgate parties outside of Ohio Stadium, a tradition that has held strong for nearly 40 years. “It started around 1980 right when Tony and Lori finished college, and has been next to or right around the French Field House every year since,” Nygren said, who noted locations have changed slightly throughout the years due to construction and other factors. The party usually reaches between 50100 participants depending on the popularity of each game While Tony tragically passed away last Summer, the group strives to maintain his traditions moving forward. “He was the glue that held everyone together, it was and still is Tony’s Tailgate. The rest of us have kept his legacy and tradition going on,” Nygren said. And one of his favorite recipes out of Tony’s Tailgate are the formidable Sassy Sandwiches, a cheesy ham sandwich bursting with flavor that was always a crowd pleaser. To make this one, you’ll add a layer of ham, a slice of Swiss cheese, and another ham layer onto sweet Hawaiian rolls. It’s better to prepare this in halves and assembling later, as it makes heating and sauce application much easier. For the sandwich’s signature sauce, combine ½ stick melted butter, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 2 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce, and 1 tablespoon poppy seeds together. This will be poured over the tops and bottoms of the Hawaiian rolls before the sandwiches are heated until warm, melty, and absolutely flavorful. 614NOW.COM
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→ D O N U T D E CO RATI NG K I T F R O M T H E D I P P ED DONUT
From their kitchens to yours Columbus DIY meal kits let you enjoy fine dining in your own home BY L I N DSEY E S C A JA | P H OTOS BY JU L I A N FO G L I E TTI
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W
hile some Columbus restaurants can’t bring people together at the moment, there’s still a resounding belief that cooking a meal in person or on zoom with your family and friends during these uncertain times will provide the comfort and familiarity we’re all craving. Lucky for you, the trend of creating a restaurant-inspired DIY meal kit for you to take home has caught on—they provide the ingredients and recipe, you do the cooking! So bring out your inner culinary genius with these four DIY meal kit suggestions from local Columbus restaurants.
The Dipped Donut
DIY Donut Decorating Kits $20 Maple Bacon? Strawberry Fruity Pebbles? Caramel Sea Salt? Vanilla Rainbow Sprinkle? The combinations are endless. So, if you have been craving something sweet, donut worry, The Dipped Donut has you covered. Each of their DIY donut kits includes 12 heavenly vanilla cake donuts, two icings, and four toppings of your picking to decorate at home with the kids, your girlfriends, your SO, or in preparation for a fun brunch. Dip each donut in one of two delicious icing flavors, such as chocolate, vanilla, caramel, or maple and then top it off with some savory toppings everyone will love from sprinkles to M&M’s, coconut, fruity pebbles and bacon. The contents in kits vary based on your likes and vegan and glutenfree options are available. Just be sure to call ahead because they only offer gluten-free production once a month to eliminate any risk of crosscontamination. Having a child with Celiac, they take this very seriously and will not serve any non-gluten-free products on the day of production. Have fun dipping and decorating!
Pies and Pints
Pizza Making Kit $7 or $5 with every $25 purchase What do you do when you are exhausted from yet another game of monopoly, words against humanity or Mario Kart? Make pizza, of course! Pies and Pints will provide you everything you need to make two small personal pizzas or one 10 inch pie including the dough, the sauce, the cheese and the pepperoni. If you want other toppings, just ask! Once you get home, start with a clean surface, douse it with some flour, roll out your dough and slather about two tablespoons of sauce right in the middle of your pizza crust. Spread the sauce out using the back of a spoon for the best coverage then add your cheese, pepperoni and if you want a little extra warmth of flavor, throw in a teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes if you have some in your spice collection. Cook each pie for 12-15 minutes at 400 degrees then simply enjoy your pizza pie. For customers with Celiac Disease or wheat allergies, call to substitute the hand-tossed dough for gluten-free or the blend of provolone & mozzarella cheese for Daiya vegan cheese. Be aware that Pies and Pints gluten-free options are NOT made in a 100% gluten-free environment, but they will do their best to make your food as gluten-free as possible. • 614NOW.COM
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Sharecuterie Graze Boxes $68-$128
Is your charcuterie board coming up short? Whether you are hosting a family gathering, zoom house party or romantic date night at home, let Sharecuterie come to the rescue and make the table impression you were hoping for. You have the option to choose between the Small Graze Board (serves 2-3), a Large Graze Board (serves 4-6), or the Italian Fruit Board (serves 4-6). The Small Graze Board includes two cheeses, two meats, crackers, fruit, jam, pickles and something sweet. The Large Graze Board includes three cheeses, three meats, crackers, fruit, jam, honey pickles or olives, and something sweet. The Italian Fruit Board provides a combination of strawberries, honeydew, cantaloupe, and watermelon and is also highlighted by melon with arugula
wrapped in Prosciutto. This board also offers a mascarpone cheese dip with a sweet honey drizzle, as well as burrata and mozzarella garnished with fresh mint and toast crackers. Each of these options can be customized to meet your individual needs or dietary restrictions such as Gluten-Free, Vegetarian, Nut Allergy, and more. Since all of these contain perishable items and are made the same day as pick-up or delivery to ensure its freshness it is highly recommended to be eaten the same day. The best part about these three choices? All of them include a handmade or custom engraved charcuterie board for you to keep and set all of your items onto to make it fuss-free from start to finish. Catch them for delivery or at Nocterra Brewery on Monday’s.
� C HA R CU T ERIE B OA RD K IT FR OM SHA RECU T ERIE
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• D E SSERT KIT FROM THE K I TCHEN ( P R OVIDED)
The Kitchen
Meal Kits & Cheese Boards $25-75 Locally sourced and locally created, The Kitchen’s passion is creating memories through food. Take this opportunity to become a chef and cook a delicious three-course meal for two all from the comfort of your own kitchen. Choose from six different themed meal kits; Italian and Spanish, Southern Exposure, Steak House Dinner, Sensational Summer Night, or Quick and Delicious. Each kit comes with a link to easy-to-read recipe instructions with bonus tips and tricks and pre-measured ingredients from local partners like Bluescreek Farm, The Butcher and Grocer, and Mushroom Harvest. The ingredients can hold in your refrigerator for 24-48 after pick-up. Vegetarian or Gluten-Free? Not a problem! Let The Kitchen know about your dietary restrictions and they’ll do their very best to accommodate you. The best part about all of this? Not only can you order a meal to cook at home, but they’re also offering the option to donate a meal kit to help feed those that are most vulnerable right now, such as families in one of the many industries that have been put out of business temporarily by the government's Stay at Home order. How is that for giving back to the local community right now? If a three-course meal isn’t your jam, The Kitchen also offers decadent cheese board kits and cocktails to-go. • 614NOW.COM
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Six Columbus cocktails to-go for at-home vibes BY L I N DSEY ESC A JA P HOTOS BY J UL I A N FOG L I ET T I
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1. Natalie’s Coal Fired Pizza B A C K YA R D B B Q B R E A K U P $ 1 2 A little bit of everything in one drink. Ingredients: A little bit of sweet mixed with a little bit of heat will take you diving straight into this deep end with this delicious rye, watermelon, gentian aperitif, citrus, habanero, mezcal to-go cocktail. Directions: Shake in the bottle and pour directly over ice, preferably a rocks glass and garnish with a dried lemon wheel for a little extra something.
2. ROOH PINK CITY $18 Take on a gastronomical expedition not only through Rooh’s contemporary Indian food but their artisanal cocktails. Ingredients: A mix of tequila, guava, chili and ROOH masala, this salty drink brings the spirit of India to your house and will have you asking for more—which is why you get not one, but two servings. Extra: Their nine unique cocktails are built around flavors based on Indian medicine and offer something for every palate whether you want sweet, sour, bitter, astringent, pungent, or salty.
3. Coast Wine House STONE FRUIT SPRITZ $11 Get ready to be liberated from the stress of everyday life with this easy-sipping sangria cocktail. Ingredients: Deliciously balanced with peach and plum rosé sangria, Capel Pisco, Amaro Nonino, and fizz soda water, this summer aperitif is a celebration of local in-season peaches from Branstool Orchards; located just 45 minutes from Columbus. The high acid rosé lends a little tartness and mouthwatering acidity whereas the ripe peaches bring a natural sweetness shocking your taste buds. And that is just for starters. The Pisco, south American Grape Brandy, adds a complimentary boozy quality and the Amaro Nonina rounds the drink out with a barely-there hint. Directions: Enjoy this mix at home over ice in a wine glass, garnished with a fresh stone fruit you have in the fridge. You can also drink it straight from the bottle, we won’t judge! Extra: Return any of your cocktail bottles back to Coast Wine and receive $1 credit towards a future purchase. Their to-go cocktail list changes every eight weeks so be sure to jump on this one fast!
4. The Bottle Shop PURPLE RAIN $12 A fan of Prince? Then you will love this mix. Ingredients: London dry gin, Butterfly pea tea, Luxardo Maraschino, Creme de Violette and citrus. Directions: Not only do you get a sealed to-go cocktail container with handwritten instructions on how to serve at home, but The Bottle Shop is also throwing in a package of Ramen noodles so customers can enjoy their mixed drink with a meal. 28
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5. Service Bar B A R R E L-A G E D O L D FA S H I O N $ 1 2 Service Bar is ahead of the game with its craft cocktail selection. Ingredients: Their Old Fashion consists of Middle West Spirits Straight Wheat Whiskey, Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup, and muddled Bitters. Directions: Garnish it with an orange peel, twist of citrus rind, or a cocktail cherry at home and feel a bit nostalgic. Extra: Traditionally served in an old-fashioned glass, their to-go mix is served in a reusable glass flask for your enjoyment.
6. Wolf's Ridge Brewing FURY TWILIGHT $22 Think tequila sunrise with a beer twist. Ingredients: This bundled mix includes two Fury Sunrise mixes of Jalepeño Tequila, Ancho Chile, Blue Curacao, Clarified Grapefruit, Sugar Syrup plus two 16 oz. cans of Wolf Ridge Brewery’s Fury Brand beer. Directions: Grab a pint glass, fill it halfway with ice and pour the cocktail mix in first followed by ½ of the cherry sour Fury beer. Extra: You can’t order cocktails without a meal; which is why this to-go cocktail comes with a snack choice between mole spiced nuts or BBQ pork rind. And if that wasn’t enough, you will have leftover beer to enjoy as a separate drink. •
Still thirsty?
Try Hopped Classic from Wolf's Ridge Brewing Ready to drink! This rum Negroni riff was inspired by a hoppy IPA with notes of candied grapefruit and a malty backbone. Ingredients: Rum, Bitter, Dry Vermouth, Hopped Pamplemousse, Filtered Water. 614NOW.COM
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SEEING red
Uncork a velvety wine for the holiday season
BY JA EL A N I T UR N E R -W I L L I A M S | P H OTOS BY P R E STO N P E R I C H
ILLUSTRATIO N S BY SA RA H MO OR E
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s local winery-goers adapt to bar and restaurant closing restrictions, there are still ways to bring the wine tasting experience home—especially as lush red wines are uncorked just in time for fall. Red wines can range in price, but having expensive taste doesn’t mean you have to break the bank for a bottle of the vibrant vino. With plenty of wineries in tote, options for red wine in Columbus are endless. Here’s a guide on red wines around the city assorting from sophisticated to sweet, with food pairing recommendations to go along with them.
Barrel & Bottle While resuming service, and also adhering to COVID-19 standards, Barrel & Bottle is North Market’s one-stop stall for wine and beer while visitors grab chow at a nearby vendor. With available tastings at the shop’s intimate bar, guests are invited to grab a bottle of their choice to be uncorked and find a wine best-suited for their palette. For an international feel, opt for dark, inky cherry tobacco taste of Stellar Organics Pinotage made in the Western Cape region of South Africa. For a sweeter tone, try the bubbly rose petal and berry blend of Casali Rosa di Rosa imported from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy.
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HAVING expensive taste DOESN’T MEAN YOU HAVE TO BREAK THE BANK FOR A BOTTLE OF THE vibrant VINO. Wine on High While Wine on High has reopened for retail services, patrons can also get their red wine fix through contactless carry-out or local delivery. With more than 300 labels in the shop alone, Wine on High has more than enough red wine to go around. The shop’s Hitching Post Pinot Noir is just $26, with a dry finish complete with pear, dried spices and juicy red fruit. For a cozy, in-homeoriented set, Wine on High also has two packs designated for specific themes from brunch, movie night and happy hour. Their red wine two-pack features the smooth, dark fruit flavorings of Drumheller Cabernet Sauvignon and the subtle, aromatic floral notes of Straight Shooter Pinot Noir for $35. With a subtle taste, both wines pair naturally with dark chocolate, grilled lamb or various braised beef dishes.
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”
grain + grape While the Bexley taproom’s bar is currently closed, the shop of grain + grape is still withstanding. As grain + grape prepares a curated wine box delivery service, guests are still welcome to scour the space for all of their wine needs. Made from the Gamay grapes of France, the fermented, burgundy Beaujolais Nouveau is both fresh and fruity, pairing naturally with robust pasta or pizza. With the complex flavorings of green tea, clove, strawberry, cranberry and unsweetened dark chocolate, the fruit-driven aromatics of Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Pinot Noir goes perfectly with fish-based dishes like baked salmon or tilapia.
Cooper’s Hawk As one of Easton Town Center’s upscale dining hubs, Cooper’s Hawk is also a winery with plentiful red options ranging from $15-$40 to compliment their elaborate meals. With traditional Merlot and Malbec flavors, Cooper’s Hawk also has signature reds, like the earthy spices of Cooper’s Hawk Lux Pinot Noir and the robust blackberry, vanilla and coffee aromatic Cooper’s Hawk Lux Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also sweet reds, like Romance Red that pair well with dessert. Handcrafted in grape-growing regions such as Oregon, California and Washington, the winery also hosts wine trips for exclusive Cooper’s Hawk wine club members, trekking to France, Portugal, Greece and Italy to visit historic wine and cuisine regions.
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HIGH HEAT
Don't get burned Crisp, fall air can only mean one thing—cooking outside by the orange glow of a hot flame! The fall issue of Stock & Barrel is dedicated to all things fire, whether it’s smoky cheese, grilled steaks, or a fiery hot sauce, we’ve got you covered for the season of falling leaves.
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Hot sauces that’ll make your ears ring BY M EL I N DA G R EEN P HOTOS BY J UL I A N FOG L I ET T I
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cquisitions are part of business. You fall in love with a hometown company (you know the ones), and one day, they’re, well, not so local anymore. Sure, the product is still great, but what do you do if you want to keep your dollars local, to help small businesses, to support the next big thing? We found three up-and-coming Columbus hot sauce producers who fit that bill.
THE FART OF IT ALL “If you’re gonna take life so seriously that you get mad about hot sauce names, this isn’t for you,” Fartley Farms founder Ron Fartley jokes. Fartley has taken the age-old hot-sauce joke and given it a different vibe. “You see these crass, easy jokes, but we wanted to bring a little class. I’ve always been into puns, so I looked for things with ‘heart’ in the name.” “We also want to be a spicy resource,” he continued. His wife, known as “The Lady of the Farm,” is co-owner, overseeing their expert social media presence and website. Their website ranks the city’s spiciest dishes in its “Spicy Sherpa” blog and provides recipes that are as fun to read as they are to eat. Still, the sauce is the heart of it all. “Warm Your Cold, Dead Fart” is a garlicky sauce that packs a punch of Carolina reaper, ginger, and maple syrup and is downright amazing on super-hot wings. “Follow Your Fart” is more for the masses–a low-sodium, no-sugar-added serrano sauce that’s good on almost anything. And “Farty in the USA” takes the middle ground, blending the hotness of habanero pepper and the sweetness of brown sugar to perfection. But for all its scatological glory, Fartley Farms' packaging is low-key enough for mixed company. There are no flaming keisters, no glaring colors or outrageous fonts to put the joke before the product. Looking closely at the sideways-printed name, you wonder “Did they actually just say that?” Yes. Yes, they did. And it’s all good.
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PE PP E R S G R OW N AT FA RT L E Y FA R M S
A MATTER OF TRUST
SEAR TACTICS
“This was not the trust fall I wanted from 2020,” laughed “Spicy” Mike Leone over a cup of coffee. The retail locations and restaurants Spicy Mike’s expected to expand into were shut down. Leone and his wife closed on a house; then he was furloughed at his day job, then laid off. “It’s earlier than I would have liked to push Spicy Mike’s to my full-time gig, but it’s what’s come across my plate, so I’m gonna roll with it,” he said, smiling. Leone’s wife, Amanda Leone, is co-owner and handles the business side; Mike is the foodie and the creative. He sources peppers, vegetables, and herbs from local farms as much as possible, as well as from their own personal garden. Spicy Mike’s has focused its sales on farmer’s markets, usually Clintonville and Westgate. Their best seller, full of succulent Fuji apples, is “Smoky Apple Habanero” and sells out quickly wherever it appears. “Pawpaw Spice” combines ghost chile peppers and sweet spices with pawpaw fruit. And their “Funky Three Pepper” sold so fast last year that Leone never got any for his own personal stash. This fall, Spicy Mike's will debut “You Don't Want This,” a righteously hot, thick sauce full of vegetable and spice flavors and scorpion peppers that intensify for about five minutes. The name says it all—if you’re not serious about savage heat, you’ll want to pass on this one. But if you are serious, it’s delicious.
Tactical Tacos owner Mike recalls his initial attempt at a barbecue sauce made with “Ghost Protocol” hot sauce: “It was so hot, the first bite made my ears start ringing.” Fortunately, his sauces alone are flavorful but much less brutal. Tactical Tacos’ three sauces—SNAFU, Fire Fight, and Ghost Protocol— are not for shrinking violets. “SNAFU” is bright and citrusy, with jalapeno, cilantro, and a smoky hit of adobo. “Fire Fight” adds habanero and other medium-heat peppers, while “Ghost Protocol” tacks on ghost peppers for a serious bite. In the works for 2021 is “Green Beret,” a verde sauce. Mike and co-owner David (who go by only their first names) met in school and later worked together in the technology industry. The company name reflects Mike’s former military service in Iraq and Afghanistan and the sauces’ origins in his taco-meat marinades. He and David experimented with fiery flavors and shared their samples at work prior to starting the company. In contrast to most hot sauces, Tactical Tacos’ are based on citrus instead of vinegar. “We try to make it unique and delicious, and the heat is something extra,” Mike said. They use powdered chile to keep the recipe consistent across batches, layering different flavors on a common base. The citrus tastes great but also makes these sauces into deliciously mean marinades. So next time you crave something spicy, go grab a few of these new and truly local sauces. Adventure awaits.
Find Fartley Farms and Tactical Tacos sauces at Flavor & Fire in the North Market or online (fartleyfarms.com, tactical-tacos.com), and Spicy Mike’s at select farmer’s markets and Savor Growl.
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" If you’re gonna take life so seriously that you get mad about hot sauce names, this isn’t for you. "
PUT A LID ON IT Like the flavor but not the fire? This fall, Spicy Mike’s plans to debut “Not Hot,” a hot sauce based on red bell peppers with a heat rating of practically zero. “I do make sauces for everybody,” Mike Leone said. “We get people who say ‘I like hot sauce, but hot sauce doesn’t like me.’ This will be for them.” And, while Tactical Tacos’ citrus-based sauces are all spicy, they’re made to be marinade-friendly, so use just a little with your favorite juices and sugars to tame the heat. Or add one or two drops of any of these sauces to a cheese or sour cream based dip, since the lactose in dairy tempers the burn.
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F I E RY C H O CO L ATE CH I P CO O K I ES M I X F R O M Y E S YO U C AYENNE P h oto by Ju l i a n Foglie t t i
" People were like ‘You’re crazy’ ...But I loved it. " 40
DIABOLICAL DESSER DESSE R TS DESSERTS Where to get ‘a party in your mouth’ in Columbus BY MELINDA G R EEN
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he spicy dessert love affair for most Central Ohioans may have started with Jeni’s legendary Queen City Cayenne ice cream. The blend of creamy cold with that bit of heat left dessert palettes across Columbus begging for more. And, thank goodness, a few local bakers have taken up the challenge to deliver a little heat with your sweet tooth. Coco Cat Bakery & Chocolates owner Melissa Camp describes her white chocolate with Jamaican curry as “a party in your mouth.” Or, as one friend put it while reaching for his second sample, “This should not be this good. This should not be good at all.” But it is. Coco Cat, whose production facility is on Leonard Ave. just northeast of downtown Columbus, has delightfully spicy chocolate options, using only dark and white base. “White chocolate is such a great vessel to hold all these herbs and spices,” Camp said. The product line (available for order at cococatbakery.com) includes candy-bar-style “Coco bars,” truffles, baking chocolate, and more. Moroccan Spice, their most popular flavor, is cardamom and other spices with a hint of heat from black and white pepper, reminiscent of old-world Christmas cookies. Pilpelchuma, a North African spice blend including smoked paprika, aleppo pepper, and garlic, matches layered flavors with 614NOW.COM
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significant heat. Pipe Dream uses Urfa pepper for a mild heat, tobacco-y scent and smoky warmth. “When I first smelled it, it reminded me of my grandfather’s smoking pipe,” Camp recalled fondly. Camp’s 12-year-old son recently joined the Coco Cat family with Tosh’s Funtastic Granola, including a tasty, moderately hot version with peri-peri and aleppo pepper, oregano, Cinnamon Hearts, Hot Tamales, and Atomic Fireballs. Erin Rosati, owner of Yes You Cayenne in Upper Arlington, turned her childhood love of baking and her penchant for spicy food into a delectable cookie mix. “I think brownies were the first thing I put cayenne pepper in, and people were like ‘You’re crazy,’” she recalled. “But I loved it. Then I did pancakes, then cookies, then decided to make a mix.” She contacted the 2019 Fiery Foods Festival, hoping to set up a small stand. “They were like ‘Okay, send us your business name, logo, website, and we’ll get you in as a vendor.’ I was kinda freaking out, thinking ‘I don’t have a logo. I don’t have a business name. I don’t have anything.’ I had a couple months to become a real business.” Yes You Cayenne’s chocolate chip cookie mix packs enough spice to let you know it’s serious about heat, but is still reasonable enough for the average person to enjoy. Aside from being spicy, it makes a really good cookie, and buying a mix means you can whip up fresh-baked cookies any time you crave them. And the best part: This mix is gluten-free. Rosati takes orders through direct message on Instagram and Facebook (@YesYouCayenne), with plans to add online ordering and retail sales soon. Fate Cakes, which recently opened their first retail location in Gahanna, offers a top-notch Cayenne Chocolate cupcake. “It’s not a flavor we keep in the case,” owner Marie Johns notes, but it’s available for special order online at fate-cakes.com. 42
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For its first eight years, Fate Cakes’ products were home-produced. “The Ohio cottage [food] law is pretty cool; people are able to do this and make a living, even pre-COVID,” Johns said. Now, the retail location brings greater opportunity for an expanded line of products. The cayenne in this luscious devil’s food cupcake is definitely noticeable, with a welcoming warmth as well as visible, tiny flecks of brick red. The sweet heat is offset by a generous pile of chocolate buttercream frosting and chocolate chip garnish. It’s perfect for chocolate lovers who like a little spice and like to stay sophisticated. For home cooks, Krema Nut Company in Grandview has a small trove of spicy treasures. Jazz up your baked goods or fruits with Cashews On Fire!! or Can You Handle My Spicy Hot Nuts? (crunchy peanuts), both with a nice kick of chile caribe, habanero, and black pepper. Or garnish your after-dinner masterpiece with habanero corn nuggets, if you’re feeling adventurous. And be sure to pick up a jar of Hot & Spicy peanut butter, lightly sweetened with dextrose, for some butt-kicking cookies or buckeyes. Just remember to adjust the recipe to account for the higher oil content of natural-style peanut butter. But for the true hot food junkies, there’s little out there that will knock your socks off. You could experiment with pure capsaicin oil at home (yikes). Or you can pick up a bottle of CaJohn’s Frostbite at the North Market. It’s a clear hot sauce that takes the capsaicin oil and mixes it in a vinegar base. Mixed with ample sugar or strong flavors, the vinegar adds a slight dimension without revealing its sourness, while the oil packs a wallop of heat. Experiment with ice cream or gelato batter, baked goods, frostings, or just make a fiery frozen margarita for dessert. So whether you like it crazy hot or just a touch, go ahead and dip your toe in the water. Try something spicy and sweet. It’s worth it.
C AYENNE AY E NNE CH O CO LATE CUP CAK ES RO Photo FR O M FATE CAK ES Ph oto by Pre ston Pe r ich
Substitutions Accepted As mentioned in the article, Yes You Cayenne’s cookie mix is always gluten-free. Additionally, Fate Cakes is able to make gluten-free variations of many of their baked goods, including the Cayenne Chocolate cupcakes, by special order. And what if you aren’t the spicy type at all? Well, visit Bridge Park in Dublin for VASO Rooftop Lounge’s Mexican Spiced Chocolate Mousse. It’s not “hot spicy” at all, but a diabolically delicious (and also gluten free) collection of flavors and textures. Smooth, slightly bitter chocolate mousse meets the crunch of earthy, lightly toasted hazelnuts, topped with tart, melt-inyour-mouth freeze-dried berries, flakes of sea salt, and a luxurious Luxardo syrup. It truly covers all the bases without even a hint of heat.
S P I CY CH O CO LATE BARS F R O M COCO C AT BAK ERY & C H O CO LAT ES Photo by Pre ston Pe r ich
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How to do backyard BBQ right BY JAC K M C L AUG HL I N P HOTOS BY J UL I A N FOG L I ET T I
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have a smoking habit that I’m not trying to quit. Smoking meats, that is. For myself, and likely all at-home barbecue enthusiasts at one time, there were the inevitable days of bad barbecue. There will most likely be more of them to come; It’s unfortunately part of the process. It can be a little more than disheartening after you’ve spent the better part of a day nursing coal and adjusting your woodpile, to turn around and consume a less-than-stellar dish. But with cooler weather and (some form of) football (sports, something) get-together right around the corner, there’s no better time to hone your craft than now. We offer you our best tricks and tips, as well as feedback from several lauded Columbus-area pitmasters, so you can enjoy smoking meats more, and end up with a better finished product. 614NOW.COM
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LOW AND SLOW Before we get into specifics, it’s important to take a step back and realize something: you’re going to make mistakes. That’s just how it is. You also have to know that real mastery of smoking is a skill that comes with experience alone— there is no magic fix. According to Max McGarity of Smoked on High—the former food truck turned German Village restaurant that’s widely regarded as some of the best barbecue the city has to offer—patience is the key. “It’s about perseverance, not giving up, because it takes a long time to perfect barbecue,” he said. “I associate BBQ with low and slow. That’s the mantra for how you cook but also how you have to learn as well. Technique comes with time.” Greg Schmidt, head chef and pitmaster at downtown standout Pecan Penny’s, echoed this sentiment, noting the need for patience above all else. “Be prepared for larger cuts (brisket or pork butt) to take longer than you think,” he said. “It’s much better to err on the side of getting done early than being extremely late and all your guests decide to order pizza instead.”
M AX M CG A RI TY O F S M O K E D O N H I GH
FIND WOOD THAT’S GOOD (FOR YOU) It’s all too easy to get convinced one kind of wood is best for your tastes when, in truth, another type of smoke lights your taste buds on fire. And it’s just as easy to defer to a convenient bundle of whatever is widely available and cheap at the moment. For me, though, this is the most fun part of smoking: the variety. You’re given a chance to learn more about the natural world around you, qualities of woodsmoke and how they impart flavor, and how they hold up to heat. You see different pitmasters in Columbus alone represent a wind range of preferences on this matter. Tennessee Pitt BBQ opts for the delicate, sweet smoke of cherry wood, while McGarity prefers a specific species of locally sourced hickory known as Shagbark Hickory (as well as some white oak), which offers a more robust smoke. “Some say lighter woods are best suited for smoking ribs, but I disagree,” he said. And yet, Greg Schmitt specifically opts for lighter woods, deliberately avoiding hickory. “My favorite wood to use is a combination of oak and pecan. I would consider both to be on the more mild side in their flavor profile as compared to something like hickory or mesquite. They complement one another very well, and stand up well to a big cut of brisket, but won’t overpower poultry.” The beauty: all of these methods can yield great barbecue. My number one tip to rekindle your love for smoking, and really figure out the flavors you want, is to actively experiment with different kinds of wood. Like McGarity noted, it isn’t simply Hickory he uses, but Shagbark Hickory, citing that different regional variances or subspecies of trees can yield surprisingly different flavor profiles. 46
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" It’s about perseverance, not giving up, because it takes a long time to perfect barbecue. " GRILL WITH WHAT YOU'VE GOT If you’re a sadist, you could spend thousands of dollars on a grill. Ceramic eggs do make good conversation starters, and a lot of celebrities have them. But according to the experts, the actual equipment used to grill and smoke has much less impact on the outcome of smoked meat than the person making it. “I’ve had all BBQ all across North America and everyone's doing all of the same proteins. Some have been great, and others haven’t been; I’ve had good food made on cheap grills, and bad food made on expensive ones,” McGarity said. “You need to know how to use wood, and how to handle your proteins. And that all comes with experience.” Smoked on High still mostly sticks with a relatively simple setup, the same one McGarity learned on. He utilizes indirect heat—meaning charcoal is placed on one side of your grill, with protein occupying the opposite one; and offset smokers, which are relatively compact and can be purchased for just over $100. One additional piece of equipment you may want to invest in, according to Schmitt, is a meat thermometer. “Barbecue is done when it’s done, it’s very much a look and feel thing that takes practice and every cook can vary. Internal temperature of your meat is a much more reliable way to barbecue than, say, setting a timer,” he said.
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SMOKE IT IF YOU GOT IT
Cheese worth getting fired up about
BY LORI SCHM I DT P HOTOS BY JUL I A N FOG L I ET T I
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P
eople love cheese, but for those wanting a different twist on the culinary staple, there is an option: smoked cheese. “For me the appeal of smoked cheeses is in the variety they offer away from the norm,” explained John Reese, the owner and culinary director of Black Radish Creamery. “A spin on a familiar cheese. Or a way to add interest or a focal point to, and round out a charcuterie board.” Most historians believe smoked cheese was discovered strictly by accident—likely the result of someone thousands of years ago storing their cheese too close to the fireplace. The technique isn’t all that different from what is often used today with grills and smokers, although now there’s also the option of using liquid smoke. The strength of the smoke-flavor varies by method and the amount of time the cheese is exposed. The only “rule” regarding the process is to avoid raising the cheese’s temperature higher than 90 degrees because, at that point, it will melt. That makes fall a good time for novices to try smoking cheese for the first time, because the cooler weather can help make the process easier. “Personally, I always approach smoke with caution. You don’t want a cheese that’s smoked to cover up a mediocre cheese. You want a level of smoke that complements a well made cheese,” said Reese. As for what smoked cheese complements? Reese said there are a variety of dishes that can be richer for its inclusion. “Outside of adding interest to a charcuterie board, a good smoked cheese is a great way to elevate many recipes: a classic cheese burger, stuffed chicken breast, a cheese sauce, even fondue, or an abundance of cheese related dishes. I like to use up to 1/3 smoked cheese of total cheese in various preparations to add some depth and interest to a dish. Again, complementing, not overpowering.” To see the versatility of smoked cheese, one only has to look at the variety of them recently being sold as part of the constantly 50
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rotating stock at the Black Radish Creamery’s stall in the downtown North Market. They featured a smoked cheddar from the Plymouth Cheese Company in Vermont. Plymouth Cheese Company described it as “somewhere between creamy, savory and proud, with hints of salt and bacon.”
For me the appeal of smoked cheeses is in the variety they offer away from the norm. San Simon DOP smoked cow’s milk cheese, imported from Spain, earned a review of acidic and buttery after being smoked with birch wood for up to 90 minutes. Rogue Creamery in Oregon made a cheese called Smokey Blue, which they cold-smoked over Oregon hazelnut shells. “This process infuses the cheese with unique aromas of barrel-aged vanilla, bread pudding, and candied bacon. You’ll taste spicy-sweet flavors of honey, apple, and nectarine, plus a mild ‘blue’ finish,” said the cheesemonger. The smoked mozzarella courtesy of the Maplebrook Creamery in Vermont was created with dampened cherry wood chips. “This creates a delicate smoke flavor with a desirably thin skin,” according to Maplebrook. As of now, Black Radish Creamery isn’t smoking any of their own cheese, which is made in Granville, Ohio, but that could change soon. “Stay tuned! Smoked cheddar curds sound good to me,” Reese said. 614NOW.COM
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How to stoke the fires of your grilling passion BY N I C HOL AS YOUN G BLOOD P HOTO BY J UL I A N FOG L I ET T I
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rilling is the great culinary unifier. The sizzle of beef patties, the heavy aroma of smoke wafting across the yard, the free-flowing conversation interrupted only by crisp swallows of beer: all these experiences add up to a cooking method that is about enjoying the process as much as the result. One of the most gratifying elements of grilling is that there is always more to learn, whether you are a seasoned veteran or a raw recruit. If you want to dive even deeper into your grilling experience, Avishar Barua can teach you a thing or two. After earning dual degrees in psychology and biology at Ohio State, he opted instead to dive into the culinary arts and bring scientific precision to his cooking. Following stints at several restaurants in Columbus and New York, including the Michelin-starred wd~50, Barua landed at Service Bar, where he employs meticulous preparation to create dishes unlike anything else. Barua has offered his expertise on the art of the grill to give you the tools and knowhow needed to make your next backyard cookout unforgettable.
DEVELOPING YOUR DISHES Barua’s science education becomes immediately evident in the way he approaches finding the best method for preparing a dish. He recommended working from what you know and isolating the variables. Start with the most basic version before trying to incorporate special ingredients or unusual methods, to find out where you want to take the flavor. “When you eat it, instead of saying, ‘This is good,’ say, ‘What do I like or don't like about this?’” Barua advised. A way to skip some of the trial and error is with a service called ChefSteps that Barua swears by. Among other resources, it shows you a photo of any cut of meat cooked to any internal temperature–down to the degree–so you don’t have to guess when your steak is cooked exactly how you like it. One of the best ways to instantly improve your grilling is to select high quality ingredients, according to Barua. Some people believe that charring mediocre meat on the grill will cover up its poor quality, but he said good grilling is about intensifying flavors, so make sure to start with flavors you love. 614NOW.COM
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TOOLS OF THE TRADE An essential element of grilling is using the right instruments. Right off the bat, Barua recommends a charcoal or wood-fired grill. Gas is convenient, but he appreciates the hands-on nature of tending a charcoal grill, which requires constant attention. In addition, the fat from the sizzling meat drips onto the burning embers and aerosolizes, which Barua said imparts the distinctive flavor associated with charcoal grilling that gas can’t provide. As for a specific grill to buy, Barua said it depends on the results you want, but it doesn’t need to break the bank. Barua used a Kamado Joe and a Weber grill to demonstrate his techniques, and he recommended both for their versatility and the attachments that can be added, such as a rotisserie or a Slow ‘N Sear. “I think [a Slow ‘N Sear is] an easy investment that'll increase your grill-ability by a lot, because you can do smoking in it, you can do indirect and direct heat,” said Barua. “You can do all kinds of fun stuff. You can control humidity; all those things with just one one piece of steel.” The next most important piece of equipment is a high-quality thermometer, Barua said. He recommended something you can stick into your food directly, because the temperature gauge on your grill isn’t giving you very relevant information. While it might be a little pricey, Barua insisted that it's an investment that will pay for itself in the perfectly good food it will save from overcooking.
THE PERFECT PATT Y There are a million methods of making a burger, and Barua seemed to see no problem with that. He said the perfect patty is one you enjoy, and it’s most important to make it your own. “If you do it that way, not only will you make a better burger, but you also end up with your own burger and that's the coolest thing in the entire world,” Barua said. “Dude, I love a Shake Shack burger, but I don't wanna make a Shake Shack burger. If I want one, I'll just go buy one from them.” Developing your own perfect patty means lots of trial and error. Barua said one objective way to take your burgers up a notch right away, regardless of personal preference, is to grind your own beef. Playing with the ratios will allow you to find a blend of meat that suits your palate. At Service Bar, Barua uses 90% chuck, 5% bacon, 5% bone marrow. If you’re looking to get the softest, juiciest patty, Barua recommended adding salt on the surface of the patty but not working it into the meat. Salt will make the patty become more dense as it cooks.
MEAT MY THS Any pastime predicated on folk knowledge passed down through generations is bound to carry with it some misinformation, and grilling is no exception. Barua said one of the most persistent myths is that grillers should avoid flipping patties and steaks excessively. In reality, flipping often will cook meat more evenly. “If you're trying to create a grill mark pattern because you're trying to impress someone, so be it, but the grill mark does not enhance the flavor of food; it just looks cool,” he said. Another widespread misconception is that the distinct flavors of grilling come from flames licking the underside of your food. Direct contact with flames is generally bad for flavor, according to Barua. Cooking is primarily achieved with radiant heat; he said fire will simply turn your food to soot and charcoal. Finally, Barua said people often think closing off the vents in the grill will make it hotter, but the opposite is true. This will choke the fire, as well as trap in gases that make food taste nasty, so good airflow is essential.
MORE THAN MEAT Vegetarian grilling
For those who eat a plant-based diet, cookouts can be tough. But why should carnivores have all the fun? Barua’s Bangladeshi background means he is well-versed in vegetarian cuisine, so he provided some insight on grilling your fruits and veggies to hit that savory craving. “Grease your vegetables. Like, really grease them before you put them on the grill, and you will see you get a huge difference in flavor,” he said. Generally, Barua avoids meat substitutes. Instead of trying to imitate a burger, he recommended finding veggies that scratch that same itch, such as mushrooms, potatoes, or eggplants. He also uses mushroom powder, which is packed with salty, umami flavor that will make any dish immediately mouth-watering. Beyond the savory, Barua said that just about anything can taste great on the grill, even fruits. It just takes some experimentation.
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From mild to wild, which one are you? Join in on the conversation about marshmallow maddess by sending your best roasting technique to editor@614now.com
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Light up your dessert game with this gooey, campfire treat BY ST EP HA N I E W EST P HOTO BY J UL I A N FOG L I ET T I
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ndroid or iPhone? Toilet paper over or under? There are few things in life that nearly all of the human population can agree upon—but when it comes to food, s’mores may be the one treat that everyone at your party will unanimously say yes. The gooey marshmallow mixed with melted chocolate and your choice of a regular graham cracker or gluten-free one, creates a blue ribbon winner your guests will love. Read on to see the many ways you can elevate, change-up, or bring a fresh approach to this fiery delight.
IF YOU BUILD IT, THEY WILL COME Let’s be honest, the classic s’more never goes out of style. And if you build a roaring fire in the backyard pit, add marshmallows, graham crackers, and milk chocolate with a few roasting sticks, the party guests will arrive in droves. The biggest debate at this point is whether or not your guests choose to burn or lightly toast their marshmallows. Just hovering that marshmallow over the fire until it’s melt-y will give it enough heat to melt the chocolate when your guests smash them together in the graham cracker sandwich. But for some of your party-goers, the taste of a freshly burnt marshmallow is what makes a s’more a s’more. It’s really up to your guests, of course, the level of burn their marshmallows will take, but no matter the toastiness, it will create the gooey delight your guest’s.
DECONSTRUCTING IS DELIGHTFUL For some guests, dipping anything into melted chocolate is the game they want to play. So deconstructing your s’more is a creative way to give your guests a little fun while enjoying this ubiquitous treat. Start with a fondue pot and melt your milk chocolate down to a creamy bowl of sweet goodness. Take graham crackers and snap them in half, then spread a generous amount of gooey marshmallow cream on each of them and lay them out around the fondue pot—enjoy! 614NOW.COM
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A TWIST ON THE CL ASSIC The best thing about the simple ingredients of a s’more is that they’re easy to switch up. To give your guests something to talk about, just make a few easy switches on this timeless treat and see just how popular you become.
CHANGE UP THE CHOCOLATE
No need to stick with milk chocolate. Try a dark chocolate flight that ranges in bitterness to give your guests something elevated to taste, You can do the same thing with a sweet white chocolate or try replacing chocolate all together with a creamy, hazelnut spread.
MAKE ADDITIONS
Make your s’more extra savory or sweet by adding elements you don’t traditionally see. One popular candidate is the peanut butter cup—add it just under the chocolate and you’ve got yourself a real culinary contender. You can also just use a smear of peanut butter, banana slices or the ever popular slice of bacon—because, well, bacon.
COOKIES FOR CRACKERS
It’s not necessary to use a graham cracker in your s’more. You can take this treat to a whole new level by subbing the cracker with an Oreo cookie—or any cookie, really. Homemade chocolate chip cookies come to mind as a party favorite or even peanut butter. It’s up to you what you sandwich the chocolate and marshmallow between, but we suggest getting creative.
NEXT LEVEL S’MORES It’s not always necessary to light a fire to enjoy the gooey flavor combination a s’more offers. In fact, if it’s s dinner party where your guests won’t want to smell like a backyard campfire, it amy be better to serve the treat as an elevated, premade dish or drink. There’s the classic s’mores cookie or bar—Cherbourg Bakery in Bexley offers a gluten free version of the treat that will make you ooo and ahh. There are also such culinary delights as brownies, bark, pie, cupcakes, and fudge. And if all else fails, Pop Tarts do make a s’more treat with a shelf life that can withstand nearly any natural disaster. For those who like a little booze with their dessert, though, these S’mores Marshmallow Shooters are sure to please. Try this recipe from the Sweet Tooth blog and see how your guests respond.
S’MORES MARSHMALLOW SHOOTERS The Sweet Tooth blog. Recipe published June 24, 2014 at www.ericasweettooth.com/2014/06/smores-marshmallow-shooters.html
Ingredients: For the marshmallows: 25 large (or Jumbo if you can find it) marshmallows 6 oz semisweet chocolate chips 1/3 cup graham cracker crumbs For the filling: 1 part cup marshmallow (or cake or chocolate or plain) flavored vodka 1 part Bailey's liquor Drizzle of chocolate syrup
Directions: Use a strawberry huller, or just your clean fingertips, to remove the insides of the marshmallows. You don't want to squeeze too deep into the marshmallow or you'll tear through to the bottom of the marshmallow. Fingers or the end of a wooden spoon dipped in a bit of water helps even out the insides and makes things less sticky. I used a paring knife to smooth off the tops of the marshmallows once I was done. If you wish, set the marshmallow on top of a heatproof mug or bottle and lightly toast with a kitchen torch. Melt the chocolate chips in 30 second intervals in the microwave, stirring between each interval, until completely smooth. Dip the tops of the hollowed marshmallows in the melted chocolate, use a toothpick to make sure the opening is cleared, and set aside on a wax paper or parchment paper-lined cookie sheet. Sprinkle with graham cracker crumbs and allow to set completely. You can store these in the fridge for up to 2 days, but I recommend waiting to fill them until right before serving. Prepare the filling in a large cup, and then use a small cup with a spout or a plastic squeeze bottle to fill the marshmallows. Serve, gobble them up in one bite, and enjoy responsibly!
No matter which way your guests enjoy this classic treat, we’re sure your party will be a hit with s’mores on the menu. Enjoy! • 614NOW.COM
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ROASTED PORK BELLY WITH PEACH MARMALADE
Death by bacon The ‘holy trinity’ of food starts with a sizzle BY N ICHOLAS YO UN G BLOOD PH OTOS BY JULI A N FOG L I ET T I
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Bacon; nature’s greatest gift to man. Thin slices of pork belly, salt-cured and often smoked, make for a meat that cannot be replaced. Not only is it a uniquely delicious cut of pork, but it’s also an exceptionally versatile one. Whether it's wrapped around another meat, used to flavor sauteed vegetables, or eaten on its own, nothing takes a dish to the next level quite like bacon. But the possibilities don’t end there. Chef Wayne Schumaker, from Cameron Mitchell’s The Barn at Rocky Fork Creek, knows this better than anyone. The holy trinity of his fridge is “bacon, butter, and beer.” Schumaker was kind enough to explain some novel ways of using bacon to up the umami in your appetizers, entrees, and even desserts.
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Roasted pork belly with peach marmalade To start things off, Schumaker took bacon back to its roots. Cubed chunks of smoked pork belly can give you all the crunch of traditional bacon with the juicy, tender texture of a thick steak. After searing it fat-side down in a cast-iron skillet until it’s golden-brown, Schumaker flipped the pork belly and stuck it in the oven to cook it through, before topping it with peach marmalade and bourbon-barrel-smoked salt. The marmalade is made in-house at The Barn with grilled peaches and orange, adding a sweetly acidic pop to the savory meat. Pork belly is an underutilized ingredient in Schumaker’s opinion. Curing and smoking it yourself allows for layers of customization that make it something all your own. Although it might seem intimidating, he said it just takes time. “People are, I think, a little bit afraid of pork belly; especially at home,” Schumaker said. “This is not a difficult process, but it is a kind of a lengthy one.” At The Barn, the curing process involves brining the pork belly in saltwater, fresh herbs, lemon, and honey for 10 hours before it is cooked confit in it’s own fat for six hours at 200 degrees. Then, it is compressed and rested overnight in the fat in a refrigerator. Finally, it is smoked with applewood. Different seasonings and smoking woods will imbue the meat with different flavors, and Schumaker said it’s all a matter of personal taste. His number one piece of advice is to leave the skin on the pork belly until after it’s done resting, so that it holds together better. • 614NOW.COM
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FRIED CHICKEN WITH BACON JAM
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IT'S ALL A BALANCE, YOU KNOW? GREAT DISHES ARE BALANCED.
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Fried chicken with bacon jam There’s not much that can top Schumaker’s buttermilk fried chicken, but he found a way. “I mean, who doesn't like fried chicken?” Schumaker asked. “How can you make fried chicken better? Bacon.” The chicken is already chock full of cinnamon, cardamom, and allspice, but savory-sweet bacon jam takes it out of this world. When it comes to selecting the bacon for his jam, Schumaker said there’s a clear winner. His all-time favorite for any application is Nueske’s applewood smoked bacon from Wisconsin. After cooking it, he lets jalapeno and onion carmelize in the bacon fat. After those flavors have gotten to know each other, he adds apple cider vinegar, reduces it, and finishes with honey. The result is a sticky, chunky sauce that would be at home on any chicken, burger, or biscuit you could think of. Schumaker said the honey and vinegar ensure it will keep well in the refrigerator, so you can cook up a huge batch and slather it on all your food for the next week. Just be sure to warm it to room temperature and stir it before serving to keep the bacon fat incorporated.
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DELUXE PECAN PIE WITH BACON WHIPPED CREAM
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Deluxe pecan pie with bacon whipped cream “Bacon for dessert?” you ask. But hear him out. Schumaker insisted that desserts, like any other dish, require balance–something bacon can provide. “When we're developing a new dish–something for the menu–does it have all the elements? Salty, sweet, acid like citrus or vinegar, umami,” he said. “So, bacon's gonna bring salt to the table.” Schumaker cited the salted caramel trend as an example of the way salty and sweet flavors play well together. Schumaker’s first step is to spruce up some pecan pie filling with chocolate and bacon bits. Candied bacon, to be specific. If you haven’t heard of it, candied bacon can be best described as your new favorite food. It’s unsmoked bacon dredged in brown sugar, white sugar, and a touch of cayenne pepper for spice that is then baked in the oven and crumbled into the pecan pie filling. As an added bonus for those with a gluten sensitivity, the bacon and nuts add enough
crunch that Schumaker said it’s easy to forego crust altogether and bake the filling straight in the dish. Then comes the truly unusual addition: bacon whipped cream. Schumaker renders some bacon, steeps it in heavy cream overnight, and then whips it up. The heavy, smokey flavor permeates the light and airy cream for a topping unlike anything you’ve ever had. Unlike the candied bacon in the filling, Schumaker recommended using a heavily smoked bacon for this. He also adds less sugar and skips the vanilla in the cream to keep the sweet flavors from competing with the real star of the show.
All the bacon Above all, Schumaker insisted that you should branch out with your bacon and try something different. There are tons of varieties and endless uses. He said the hardest part of planning the dishes for this story was narrowing it down to just three. As the embodiment of salty and savory, it’s a perfect way to round out just about any dish. “It's all a balance, you know?” said Schumaker. “Great dishes are balanced.” • 614NOW.COM
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Blue Ribbon Blues How to get your favorite foods when life’s not fair BY LORI S C HMIDT
CHECK THE GROCERY STORE SHELVES
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n July 28, Ohio Gov. Mike DeWine announced that county fairs would be limited to livestock competitions due to the COVID-19 pandemic. “I think we will preserve the essence of the fair,” he said of the decision. With all due respect to the governor, though, how can the essence of a fair be preserved if there are no corn dogs or funnel cakes? No elephant ears or cotton candy? No fried (insert basically anything edible here)? So as a public service, we present several ways to get your fair food fix in 2020—that don’t involve putting everything on a stick.
FIND A FOOD TRUCK Close your eyes, take a deep breath, and stand next to the right food truck, and you’ll swear you’re at the fair. Yumii Kettle Corn Company definitely qualifies, as does the Angry Wiener. Almost any truck with an Americana menu might make you feel like you’re on your way to win a giant stuffed teddy bear or headed for a ride on the Tilt-A-Whirl.
CONSIDER CARRYOUT OPTIONS Believe it or not, some restaurants serve the same kinds of food you’d find at the fair. Culver’s offers Wisconsin cheese curds and chili cheddar fries that would perfectly compliment a trip on the ferris wheel. Although it’s temporarily off the menu, they also have a very tasty pork tenderloin sandwich. Schmidt’s Restaurant has delicious giant pretzels, and we’re very happy to report that bd's Mongolian Grill serves fried Oreos.
Naturally, grocery stores carry the obvious, like corndogs and cinnamon-apple doughnuts. Delve a little deeper into your local market’s selection and you might find something unexpected. Even better than ringing the bell on the high striker, for instance, is a fair staple found at Gordon Food Service. Because GFS normally sells to restaurants, they have a lot of different items in stock to start with–and that includes a $13.99 package of eight giant funnel cakes. Simply throw one in the oven for three minutes, and when it comes out, dust it with powdered sugar and strawberries. To satisfy a real sweet tooth, throw on some whip cream as well.
MAKE IT AT HOME Fair food isn’t exactly known for being healthy. That might make a DIY-version an especially appealing prospect. You can also make adjustments for allergies and intolerances while still creating something worthy of a blue ribbon. A few examples? Grill and season turkey meat for a walking taco (basically a taco in the bottom half of a small Doritos bag). Bake, rather than fry, churros. Similarly, corn dogs can be made with a baked cornbread coating. Deep fry steak fries in an oil of your choosing. Even go online to find your favorites by Googling “fair food.” You won’t believe how many there are. And, yes, you can always put healthy food on a stick.
WAIT UNTIL 2021 If you want the real authentic experience of eating your deep-fried cheese bites on the midway, you’ll just have to be patient. Yes, it will be a long wait, but nobody said life was fair. 614NOW.COM
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