Stock & Barrel | Fall 2023

CONTENTS

COVER SECTION

Whether you prefer thin and crispy Columbusstyle pies, hefty Detroit slices or anything in between, the Arch City is absolutely full of great pizza. From hot new spots to try, to a regional style guide and much more, it's time to dig in!

COVER PHOTO BY JEN BROWN, DESIGN BY TORI SMITH

18

MASTER CHEFS DISH IT OUT!

We’ve cooked up a Q&A with Columbus MasterChef contestants Wayne Lewis and Charles Calvino about Gordon Ramsey, Columbus pizza and much more

PLENTY OF FISH

How an unassuming family fish fry led to the creation of an up-and-coming Columbus food concept

24

BIER ME!

Meet the Columbus brewery eschewing IPA for traditional German lagers—and crushing it in the process

64

CULINARY GETAWAYS

Columbus pizza? Altoona-style pie? And what the heck is Brier Hill? We dish out the details of pizza styles in Ohio and surrounding states

JACK MCLAUGHLIN Editor-In-Chief

Pizza, Place

Both of my parents grew up on the South Side of Chicago, and I lived exclusively in the Chicagoland area until I went to college at 18. This meant a lot of uncles with mustaches who look (and for that matter, sound) like Mike Ditka, and a whole lot of screaming at the TV when the Bears played (please be good this year, Justin Fields).

What it also meant, though, was a fixation with one particular Chicago pizzeria, and it’s probably not the kind you’re expecting.

There’s a saying in Chicago, and it goes something like: “People who live in the city eat thin-crust pizza; tourists eat deep-dish.” While this is obviously a sweeping generalization, it was–at least in my immediate and extended family–pretty much the truth.

Don’t get me wrong, deep-dish spots like Giordano’s and Lou Malnati’s are great, but when I think of Chicago pizza, I think of Vito & Nick’s Pizzeria. They’ve since expanded to other parts of the city, but since the 1950s, they’ve operated one small, unadorned restaurant on the corner of 84th Street and Pulaski Road on Chicago’s South Side.

My parents had been patronizing the place since they were young, and it became something like a rite of passage for my sisters and me, as well. This pizza is tavern cut and seriously thin (think Columbus-style), and the restaurant itself–even after a feature on the hit

show Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives– still held onto the same unpretentious neighborhood bar feel, and still had the same carpet on the walls.

What I’m trying to say is this: there’s a regional identity, a regional pride, that’s baked (pun intended) into pizza, wherever they’re from. So not only is it great to eat, and going out for a pizza is an event in itself, but pizza also has the distinct ability to represent the cultures it comes from.

Columbus is absolutely no different with this. I’ve lived here for far shorter than I have Chicago, but those thin, square pizzas that define Columbus-style pies carry just as many associations with this city as Vito & Nick’s does for Chicago. When I eat them, when I even just see a Massey’s box, the weathered Tommy’s Pizza sign or even the white carryout bags from Rubino’s, I think of my home now, Columbus.

But like anything in today’s era of rapid-fire information exchange, real food cities like Columbus will be represented by a wide variety of different styles. We can grab everything from Chicago deep dish, to weighty Detroit-style cuts, to the classic New York slice, in addition to the city’s own eponymous style. And much, much more.

We want to celebrate Columbus pizza, and everything it includes, in this issue. So grab a slice–or four–and enjoy.

CALENDAR

From pizza to pumpkins, this fall is packed with delicious food-related events all around Columbus. We've put together someof our favorites so you don't go hungry. Get more information for these events (and more) at 614now.com/events

PUBLIC ART IS EVERYWHERE IN COLUMBUS!

Mac & Cheese Festival

October 6

Location: 4000 Stelzer Rd. (Easton Town Center)

Columbus Taco Fest

October 7-8

Location: 120 W. Goodale (Goodale Park)

Find murals, sculptures, fountains, historic theaters and much more.

Explore new neighborhoods, discover your favorite library’s collection, learn about public art tours (NEW!) or just get to know the wonderful variety of public art in central Ohio—our city’s collection is growing all the time!

Fall Brew Fest

October 13th

Search by location, artist name, type of art or any keyword and help us make the database even better by sending your photos and details.

Location: 330 Huntington Park Lane (Huntington Park) Download

Visiting Chef Series at FYR

October 18 /

November 15

Location: 404 N. High St.

Bobcat Godmask, by Adam Hernandez on Jackie O’s Pub & Brewery in downtown Columbus.

"Banana peppers are essential."

Sav McKee Assistant Editor

“Any combination of banana peppers, green peppers, jalapeño peppers and pepperoni. I guess I’m all about the pep.”

Jack McLaughlin Editor-In-Chief

STAFF PICKS

By Stock & Barrel staff

Our Pizza Picks

It’s the pizza issue, so naturally, we asked our staff about their go-to toppings. Here’s what they said.

“ALL the veggies. I accept nothing less.”

Atlas Biro Creative Designer

“I need at least five sides of ranch to donk my cheese pizza in.”

Lizzy Saunders Brand

Manager,

(614) Beer

“Pepperoni with EXTRA sauce.”

Lindsay Press CEO

“Sausage, Mushroom & LIGHT onion: It's my go-to. If I'm at JT's I also need the garlic butter crust”

Meggin Weimerskirch Advertising Director

PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING

↑

Geümt Biergarten, Huginn and Muninn Kölsch, Crisp, subtle and remarkably drinkable, this locallycrafted kölsch is perfect to sip on during a Buckeyes game, and makes a great companion to a slice of pizza.

↑

Wendy’s, Pumpkin Spice Frosty While some of us are still sad about the Vanilla Frosty getting booted from the menu, it’s difficult to not get excited for fall now that you can grab a Pumpkin Spice Frosty for the first time ever.

↑

HOMAGE, Donatos Sizzling Hot Pizza Shirt, It’s The Pizza Issue after all, right? Show your Columbus pride two times over when you buy this locallymade shirt featuring locallymade pizza.

↑

Crimson, Wayfarer Blend, The popular Columbus-based coffee company recently took home a spate of accolades at the 2023 Golden Bean Awards, including a silver medal for their Wayfarer Blend, which boasts notes of fruit and caramel.

Did you know that (614) has a YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? It’s true. We've expanded our ever-growing content to include video across our web and magazine stories. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, scan the QR code to check out the newest videos on our channel:

• Downtown Columbus’ Most Scenic Rooftop Bar

Offering stunning 360 degree views of Downtown Columbus, the Brass Eye atop the Junto Hotel has to be on your bucket list. With locally-sourced liquors and a delicious menu, you don't want to miss out!

• Treat Your Kids to Free El Vaquero!

Who doesn't love authentic Mexican cuisine? All year long, kids 12 and under eat free every Tuesday! Treat yourself to the wonderful flavors of Mexico at El Vaquero.

• Tasting Columbus Returns to the Ohio State Fair!

For 168 years, the Ohio State Fair has delighted fairgoers with its rides, exhibits, events, and of course, the delicious fair fare! Join Matt Teagarden as he tries some of the delicious foods at the OSF!

Watch now:

# EAT 614

It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.

RestaurantRecollections

By John M. Clark / Story Design by Atlas Biro

Make no mistake: Columbus is a pizza lover’s town, and it has been since 1934, when the very first one in the city came out of the oven at Pete and Philomena Corrova’s restaurant, TAT Ristorante Famiglia, on Goodale Avenue. Yes, the very same TAT that still tickles customers’ taste buds at Livingston Avenue and South James Road.

But the pizzas then were not quite the same as you might find today. A few years ago, Pete’s son Jimmy, who ran the business until his death in 2021, noted that the first Columbus pizzas had a thick

Local historian John M. Clark digs into Columbus restaurants lore with the city's first pizzeria,

crust that was rolled out in huge sheets and topped with tomatoes and herbs. Cheese wasn’t always available during the Great Depression. But you could usually count on anchovies.

By the way… In case you’ve ever wondered about the name, TAT (pronounced “T-A-T”), Pete was an admirer of Transcontinental Air Transport, the first transatlantic airline, which got its start in Columbus in 1928. Eventually, though, he got tired of explaining the connection and changed his story. “TAT,” he later said, stood for, “Take Any Table.”

The story of Columbus’ first pizza survives because it has been handed down by generations of TAT owners and employees. But the overall history of our restaurants is surprisingly difficult to trace. In the early days, food was available at stagecoach stops, taverns, and hotels. Unless you were a drinking man (emphasis on gender) or a traveler, there were practically no other options.

It was in the late 19th century that standalone restaurants began popping up along the Capital City’s business corridors — especially downtown, near the Statehouse. And, surprisingly, a couple of them are still around. →

an extra-spooky spot you might not know, and more

↓ TAT Ristorante Famiglia Exterior, photo courtesy of TAT Ristorante

The award for the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Columbus goes to Ringside Café, but with an asterisk.

The tiny brick building tucked into Pearl Street just a half-block north of the Statehouse has been popular with legislators, their staff and other downtown workers since 1897. At that time, it was called the Board of Trade Saloon, named for the nearby Board of Trade building, which housed the precursor to our Chamber of Commerce. The original saloon burned in 1909 and was replaced by a new building on the same site (hence the asterisk).

For the new restaurant, E. Mithoff Nicholas hired a noted architectural firm to design what he would call the Chamber of Commerce Café & Rathskeller. The name remained for 10 years, until the onset of Prohibition, when the Chamber of Commerce began objecting to any affiliation with an establishment that sold alcohol. At this time, the name changed to the Jolly Gargoyle Tea House and Antique Shop.

There’s little doubt, though, that alcohol continued to flow at 19 North Pearl St. Current owner Adrian Rosu subscribes to the theory that a tunnel connected his establishment to the Statehouse, and points to what appears to be a sealed doorway in the basement as evidence.

The current name came in 1933, when the establishment was bought by professional wrestling promoter Al Haft, who would also find success with his Haft’s Acre outdoor boxing and wrestling arena, near the southeast corner of Goodale Park. In fact, legend has it that beginning with Haft’s ownership, bare knuckle boxing matches were held in the middle of Pearl Street, just outside the restaurant’s front door.

Today, Ringside is known for its deluxe hamburgers, each named for a famed boxer, along with boxing paraphernalia, a large reproduction of a George Bellows painting of a boxing match, and its detailed, Belgian stained glass windows. →

↓ Ringside Tavern Exterior, photo courtesy of Columbus Metropolitan Library

Though never suspected of being haunted, the creepiest restaurant and bar in the city’s history had to be The Catacombs, in the basement of the old Chittenden Hotel, on the northwest corner of Spring and North High.

The Catacombs, which opened in 1940, was basically one, big, year-long Halloween party. To reach the club, patrons apparently entered at street level and climbed a ladder down to basement level. Here, a massive door opened, and a man dressed as a monk ushered them into an elevator car that shook and creaked as it lowered patrons another 300 feet. A lighted panel kept track of their descent. (OK, so they didn’t really go anywhere. After the noises stopped, a door on the other side of the elevator opened and guests were ushered out, onto the same level.)

Before them lay a winding, block-long trail of horrors, with fake skulls and skeletons lining the “rock” walls, a “torture chamber,” caskets containing the not-so-recently “deceased,” “cobwebs” dangling from the ceiling, water that dripped on customers’ heads and muffled moans of the “dead and dying.”

Needless to say, the place was a huge hit – so popular that Life Magazine published a multi-page photo spread on it as soon as it opened. Audiences praised the realism, along with the nightclubstyle entertainment, excellent food, and large drink menu. If that weren’t enough, one could always marvel at the “Eternal Fire,” which was said to have been burning for 500 years, the costumed waitresses, and even a magician who took delight in playfully insulting the diners. Oh, and did we mention the pinball machines in the subterranean casino?

Barely a year later, the still-popular Catacombs closed — with little notice and even less of an explanation. Over the next few years, two additional, short-lived theme clubs would occupy the space – first, The Tombs, and then The Subway. But neither gained a foothold on the Columbus nightclub scene. After all, once you’ve shared cocktails in the realm of the dead, everything else must pale in comparison. ♦

↑ Chittenden Hotel Exterior, home of The Catacombs, photo courtesy of Columbus Metropolitan Library

We’ve cooked up a Q&A with Columbus MasterChef contestants Wayne Lewis and Charles Calvino about Gordon Ramsay, Columbus pizza and much more

Photos by Jen Brown

Story Design by Tori Smith

Columbus MasterChef contestants Wayne Lewis and Charles Calvino

he most recent season of the hit cooking show MasterChef featured not one, but two different Columbus chefs. One of them happens to be Publisher of (614) Media Group Wayne Lewis, and the other is local hair stylist and digital creator Charles Calvino. Stock & Barrel sat down with both of them to talk MasterChef, local food and, of course, Columbus Pizza. Here’s what they said. →

What was it like representing Columbus on MasterChef? Did you feel a need to show the rest of the world that the (614) is a real food city?

It was quite an honor representing not only Columbus, but the state of Ohio on MasterChef. Surprisingly, there had not been anyone from Ohio on the show for like 5 seasons! The Midwest also got more focus because of the regional groups they started the show with so yeah, there was some pressure to make a good showing.

There are great cooks from every corner of the globe, but I feel the Midwest in general doesn’t get enough credit for our food or cooking style. Some may call us “casserole cuisine,” but I think that’s way out of date as cooks from the Midwest have to show lots of diversity in our style because we aren’t dominated by any one regional ingredient or cuisine. We need to be creative and borrow inspiration from all the influences around us, which these days, is global in nature.

What was meeting Gordon Ramsay like?

Any particularly interesting encounters?

Like most people, it’s easy to be intimidated by Gordon— one of the top chefs in the world, successful in business and obviously an A-level TV star. He’s intense for sure but it all goes to the core of who he is—a perfectionist in and out of the kitchen. Once you understand that, you either strive to meet his standards or get run over.

One particularly not-so-funny exchange for me was during the final tastings of the MRE episode, where I sorely undercooked a giant rack of lamb. Gordon walks by, looks me in the eye, shaking his head and just says, “F&ck, Wayne, what the f&ck?” That was a moment for me!

What’s the one dish on the show you’re most proud of?

That’s hard to say as I won several challenges, but my audition dish really stands out for me. The venison really represented elevating a dish, in this case, game meat, and doing it for the first time under the pressure of the clock and in the MasterChef kitchen. I was pretty proud of that.

You always hear contestants talk about the camaraderie on these types of shows. Can you talk about the relationships you made and how they impacted you?

It really is true. Here we are, a few dozen people thrown into this insane world of reality TV, all for the first time and there is a certain type of “trauma bonding” that happens right away. We are all experiencing this weird thing together, and it’s like glue. But for our show in particular, we all have a genuine love for food and cooking so that commonality has a powerful way of bridging whatever differences each of us came in with. Many friends were made all around.

If you had to pick a single moment from this season of MasterChef as your favorite, what would it be?

This one is easy – it’s the last challenge I won. The infamous “restaurant takeover” episode happened to take place in one of Gordon’s Hell’s Kitchen restaurants. That was a huge “pinch me” moment as that show is also one of my favorite cooking shows. To get to cook in that kitchen with the incredible pressure involved, and lead my team to victory was my top moment for sure. You have to remember - none of us had ever worked in an environment like that before. It was really hard but exhilarating at the same time!

Since this is the pizza issue, we have to ask, what are your go-to pizza toppings?

Ok, here we go… let me get this out of the way: Yes, pineapple DOES belong on pizza! I’ve been known to order the Hawaiian style more than once. If that doesn’t disqualify me from talking about pizza, I’d have to say my favorite toppings are pepperoni, sausage, onions, and hot peppers. But I always try to judge the quality of a pizza joint based on their basic cheese pie. That’s the standard for me.

Do you prefer Columbus-style pizza, or something like New York and Detroit-style?

I hope I don’t get in too much trouble for this but... NY is known as the pizza capital of the world for a reason. Been to the city many times and don’t think I’ve ever had a bad slice. A giant triangle that folds but doesn’t flop, crispy crust and perfectly melted cheese just does it for me. That said, Columbus does have some good pizza as well though.

Do you have a go-to Columbus pizza place?

When I’m not spinning pies at home, we definitely like JT’s on 161. Great toppings and perfectly crisp crust. After that, in no particular order: Grandad's, Panzera, Paulie Gee’s and the Hot Mama from Hounddogs.

What was it like representing Columbus on MasterChef? Did you feel a need to show the rest of the world that the (614) is a real food city?

Being on MasterChef representing Columbus was an honor to me. I do like being a buckeye. There’s so much diversity in this city that I feel it does not get enough credit that it deserves. The (614) definitely has all kinds of different foods from all over the world.

What was meeting Gordon Ramsay like? Any particularly interesting encounters?

Meeting Gordon Ramsey for the first time was a little intense, but exciting at the same time! He doesn’t know you but you know him, from growing up watching him cook on T.V. Also he comes with two interesting judges to be his back up!

What’s the one dish on the show you’re most proud of?

The one dish I was proud of is the national dish of Cambodia, “Amok” – a lemongrass fish style curry bathed in richness, color, and the spices that represent my culture and the cuisine.

You always hear contestants talk about the camaraderie on these types of shows. Can you talk about the relationships you made and how they impacted you?

One thing about season thirteen on MasterChef is that we all came from different backgrounds/cultures. It was very diverse.

If you had to pick a single moment from this season of MasterChef as your favorite, what would it be?

I would have to say it was my auditioning scene to get my white apron.

Since this is the pizza issue, we have to ask, what are your go-to pizza toppings?

Love it or hate it, but I'm a PINEAPPLE AND HAM/Cheese kinda guy!!!!! Yep! I said it!

Do you prefer Columbus-style pizza, or something like New York and Detroit-style?

What I like about pizza in Columbus is that we are very adventurous here! We got deep dishes, we got NYC-style, we got weird gummy worms and chocolate covered pretzels for pizza. You name it!

Do you have a go-to Columbus pizza place?

Well, being from California, now living in Cbus, I used to like Donatos (Donna-Toes: that was literally how I said it too!). The Founders Favorite is my favorite ever!

Meet the Columbus brewery eschewing IPA for traditional German lagers—and crushing it in the process

By Melinda Green

Story Design by Atlas Biro

Photos by Alissa Ohashi

Historically, “There are two types of bars in the Western world,” Gemüt Biergarten co-owner Kyle Hofmeister joked. One of them is the type where the men go off for a pint (or several) and leave the women and children at home. The other, the German style, is the type where the whole family goes for food and libations and neighborhood camaraderie.

“I mean, I’m obviously making wild generalizations here,” Hofmeister laughed. But that distinction is exactly what drove Hofmeister and his wife, Chelsea Rennie, to open Gemüt four years ago.

Hofmeister and Rennie, then newlyweds, wanted to strike out on their own and do something special, something they really loved. Hofmeister’s background in bar and restaurant management led naturally to the idea of a restaurant. Then, during a Dungeons & Dragons campaign, their friend Rob Camstra suggested adding a brewery. One thing led to another – a German Biergarten theme was tossed into the mix, and the idea took hold. Camstra joined as co-owner and brewer and brought along Nick Guyton as the same.

The owners wanted German lagers—Altbier, Kölsch, Bock, Weizen, Märzen—and “that big, outside, German beer garden feeling.” Local German clubs provided inspiration: “seeing all the kids and the whole family running around having good times on their big festival days. That was kind of something we wanted to recreate kind of on the day-to-day,” Hofmeister said. →

Site selection was critical. The group landed at the renowned late-19th-century firehouse in Olde Towne East that spent many years as the Columbus Music Hall. The original wrought-iron spiral staircase still stands, but the rest of the property has been renovated to meet modern standards.

The word Gemüt means “emotion” or “soul;” Germans often speak of Gemütlichkeit, a certain easygoing friendliness. “We wanted to make sure that the outside area was really calm and inviting and felt like it had been here for a lot longer than it has been,” Hofmeister said. “All our Biergarten furniture is made in Germany. It's the same stuff that you'd sit in if you went to Munich and went to the local Biergarten down the street.”

“We knew we wanted to have a lot of greenery,” he continued. “So a lot of our time and attention, especially during the summer, goes to maintaining and watering and trimming and making sure that the plants stay healthy and happy and give you that vibe where it's, you know, just kind of a lush environment.”

They even built a flexible shade structure that does the work of so many cumbersome table umbrellas, as well as a small patio near the parking lot, paved with salvaged Nelsonville brick.

And, in contrast to so many other bars and restaurants where children are either welcome to stay at tables or not welcome at all, Gemüt Biergarten has a small kids’ area with gravel and toys. “When people do come in to sit down, the kids can kind of run off and be occupied in a way that's not particularly disruptive,” Hofmeister said. “And they’re never out of their parents’ sight.”→

“That big, outside, german beer garden feeling...that was something we wanted to recreate.”

← (From Top) Saurkraut Balls, Holstein Schnitzel, and Gemüt Smash burger

Then there’s the menu. It’s a lot of German food, and it’s good German food: sausages like Currywurst (all the rage in Berlin) and Jägerwurst with its sweet and spicy flavorings; traditional Wienerschnitzel or a chicken Paprikaschnitzel; sides like Käsespätzle (mac and cheese wishes it were this good), potato salad, and sweet-and-sour Rotkohl. Not into German food so much? Try a smashburger and fries. The meats are all Ohio-sourced. And, lest you believe that German food is entirely meatbased, there are delicious vegan options on the menu, too.

Camstra and Guyton bring over 20 combined years of hands-on brewing experience to the venture, and Gemüt’s beers have received international recognition already. You won’t find an IPA, or an anything-PA, on their list. You won’t need to.

“You know, the German style lager is one of the more challenging kinds of beers to make because it's really about the quality of the ingredients and the

way that you treat them,” Hofmeister said. “If you make a poor quality thing, or if something isn't tasting quite right, it's immediately evident. So we decided to go for this style, both because it's the beer that we like to drink and because we could see it becoming a little bit more popular in the craft brewing scene. We decided to do the fundamentals right, and we've really gotten a lot of traction by doing that,” said Hofmeister.

While they continue to perfect that craft for an international audience, the Gemüt team is preparing for their eclectic Autumn Market on October 7, and then they’ll tent a portion of the patio for winter. Gather up the kids (or yourself) and head down for a bite, a brew, and some Gemütlichkeit at one of the friendliest breweries around. ♦

To view the menu, events schedule, and more, visit gemutbiergarten.com

↑ Gemüt Exterior

“We decided to do the fundamentals right, and we've really gotten a lot of traction by doing that.”

Live

account of an evening out at Columbus Restaurant FYR, with visiting chef Pablo Bonilla calling the shots

By Megan Smith /

This wasn't my first rodeo attending a multicourse dinner, but it was the only one where I was tempted to lick each plate clean before the next arrived. Over the years, I've had the pleasure of enjoying several chef-inspired dinners. James Beard dinners. Art auction dinners. Fundraising dinners. While each provides delicious dishes, there are usually an equal amount of headscratchers as the chef attempts to bring something new to the table (pun intended).

In mid-August, I finished work, donned a pair of heels and a dress, and took an Uber to our city's first live-fire restaurant. The Visiting Chef Series is Chef Sebastian La Rocca's brainchild — bringing together chefs from around the globe to cook alongside him in the kitchen of FYR, where he is Executive Chef. The popular series has proven to be a triumphant celebration of culture, community, and culinary solidarity.

NORBENRONALE Studio

Chef Pablo Bonilla from Costa Rica was the visiting chef on the night I attended. Chef Bonilla's work at his restaurant, Sikwa, located in San Jose, aims to protect the culinary traditions of the native people of Costa Rica. It's been featured in National Geographic and Forbes and named one of the World's 50 Best Restaurants.

Throughout the evening, Chef Sebastian La Rocca and Chef Pablo Bonilla took turns creating dishes, playing off one another's previous course like the four movements of a symphony; each chef, sous chef, line cook, bartender, and server working in harmony - every stir, chop, dice, sear, pour, and plating perfectly timed in synchronized harmony.

Between courses, the conversation flowed lively amongst guests. A section of FYR's dining room, closest to the kitchen, had been converted into a gathering of community tables - allowing strangers to become acquainted quickly (shout out to my seat

neighbor, Chelsea!). Rustun Nichols, FYR's beverage director, selected wine pairings for each course and spent the evening unpretentiously pouring, describing, and discussing each as we oohed and aahed over what we had just eaten and sipped.

There are two remaining Visiting Chef Series for the year. On October 18, Chef Mario Castrellon from Maito Panama, renowned for his modern and inventive take on Panamanian cuisine, will bring his talents to FYR. And on November 15, Chef Juan Manuel Barrientos from El Cielo in Miami will conclude the 5-part series with his creative and visionary approach to Latin American cuisine.

Story Design by Atlas Biro

$120 per person, with an optional wine pairing for an additional $60 per person. For more information and to reserve your seat for the Visiting Chef Series, please visit FYR's OpenTable page.

Photos by Fluff Studio &

↑ Cambute Ceviche

First Course: Pejibaye Hummus

Coconut yogurt, roasted beets. Chef Pablo Bonilla. Paired with a Domain Désiré Petit.

Second Course: Cambute Ceviche

Conch, tomato tiger milk, burnt heart of palm, serrano chili, cilantro. Chef Sebastian La Rocca. Paired with Fongoli.

Third Course: Branzino Seared In Hoja Santa & Cicasquil Oil

Green plantain and radish chips, green plantain puree. Chef Pablo Bonilla. Paired with Domaine Tempier Rosé.

Fourth Course:

Beef Tongue Gallo "Taco"

Handmade corn tortilla, tamarind, and pasilla chile sauce, chicharron dust, avocado cilantro mousse. Chef Sebastian La Rocca. Paired with Famille Dutraive “Clos du Chapitre”.

Fifth Course: Brined Wood Oven

Roasted Pork Ribs

Sweet corn tamale, pickled green papaya.

Chef Pablo Bonilla. Paired with Domaine des Closier.

Sixth Course: Rice Pudding

Chef Brian Wildroudt (Hilton Downtown Columbus). Paired with Dupont Pommeau.

↓ Chef Pablo Bonilla

How

an unassuming

family

fish fry led to the creation of an up-andcoming Columbus food concept

By Laura Hennigan / Photos by Tyler Jamison Story Design by Tori Smith

Facing the high price tag that accompanies having kids who play sports, Lance Burgess decided to raise some extra funds for his daughter’s travel basketball fees by doing what he does best: cooking.

About 15 years ago, he threw a family fish fry fundraiser that ended up being a massive success. Not only did they cover the basketball team costs, but Burgess also found that his food was quickly becoming famous.

“My mom was a caterer, so growing up I was always in the kitchen,” said Burgess. “Whenever I saw people after the fundraiser, they were always asking when I was going to have another fish fry. People were telling me to go into business…and they were willing to pay for the food. So I started doing pop-ups occasionally for friends and family.” →

He also wisely harnessed the power of social media, frequently posting pictures on Instagram and Facebook of his fried fish, chicken sandwiches, and homemade side dishes like macaroni and cheese and deep fried cauliflower nuggets. Burgess slowly began to build a potential new concept called L.B's Golden Fried Fish N' Chicken, getting his EIN and business insurance, as well as reading as much as he could about the entrepreneurship journey. When the pandemic hit in 2020, he discovered the 1400 Food Lab on Dublin Rd., an incubator for start-up food businesses which offered him the option to start a ghost kitchen.

It was there that Burgess began pursuing the idea of opening a food truck for his popular dishes instead of having to solely rely on third party delivery services. “I had been studying the food truck business on my own for a while, but then I found the Food Lab,” he shared. “Then I began attending mobile food conferences, where I met different people and asked them for advice.” He also connected with Dennis Kang, who had extensive restaurant experience and ran his business, Seoul Food On The Go, out of the Food Lab as well. Kang provided a wealth of information and help as Burgess figured out the business details of running a food truck. →

↓ Owner Lance Burgess (second from right) and family

↓

L.B's new food truck, ready for the road

Ready to launch, Burgess purchased the shell for a truck in 2022, but quickly realized it was too small to work in. Luckily, he found a replacement, a former Peruvian food truck that someone at the Food Lab was selling. “I knew instantly that it was a great truck and so I bought it. I remodeled it, registered with the city, got licensed and inspected and had it wrapped. We officially launched the truck in March of this year over St. Patrick’s Day weekend,” he said.

For now, L.B's Golden Fried Fish N' Chicken operates mostly on the weekends, along with some special events and private parties. Staffed by Burgess, his wife, their kids and some friends, the truck travels all over Columbus.

“We’ll be in Dublin one week and people will come by, and then we’re in Pickerington the next week, and those same people will show up again. Wherever we are they come find us. It’s cool to see that,” he shared.

What is the secret to L.B’s popularity? The food came long before the business idea and a love of cooking is really what drives his tasty menu offerings. He said, “The food is made with a lot of love, and we treat people the way we want to be treated. We serve portions that reflect the way we like to eat. The most important thing to me is to serve really good food and have quality over quantity.” ♦

To learn more, facebook.com/L.B.FISH4U2CME

Whether you prefer thin and crispy Columbus-style pies, hefty Detroit slices or anything in between, the Arch City is absolutely full of great pizza. From hot new spots to try, to a regional style guide and much more, it's time to dig in! →

Section Design by Bryce Patterson

↑ From left, Sexton’s Pizza co-owners Jamey Sexton and Joey Sexton

By Jack McLaughlin

In so many industries today, there’s rarely a single individual as monolithically impactful as Dave Portnoy, the man behind the wildly popular YouTube series One Bite Pizza Reviews, is to the world of American pizza.

This means that, if you’re a pizzeria owner and you know Portnoy is headed your way, you do whatever you need to do to be there and put your best foot forward.

Joey Sexton, the co-owner of Sexton’s Pizza, has uniquely been in this position twice.

The first time, Sexton was waiting in line at his daughter’s school when he got a call that Dave Portnoy, who was in Columbus for a weekend of March Madness basketball, had placed an order at the Hilliard location of Sexton’s Pizza.

“I almost turned around on the spot to make it back,” he said with a laugh.

Just before he could do so, his brother Jamey (and fellow Sexton’s Pizza co-owner) called him to say it was all a joke. He had put the order in himself. It was disappointing at the time, but it made what happened next even more incredible.

About 30 minutes later, Joey received a flurry of calls from Jamey.

“At first I didn’t answer, because I had my newborn sleeping on me,” Joey recalled. “I finally answered and he said, ‘Hey, are you getting us back? You’re just getting us back, right?’”

The name Dave Portnoy had yet again appeared on the order screen in the kitchen of Sexton’s Hilliard pizzeria. This time, though, it was real.

“Check the name on the credit card that he used,” Joey remembers telling Jamie over the phone. “I promise you.” →

The story behind Sexton Pizza’s massive score from Dave Portnoy’s One Bite Pizza Reviews, and the long road they took to get there

Photos by Tyler Jamison

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If you follow the Columbus food scene in nearly any capacity, you likely already know what happened next: Portnoy showed up, filmed a segment at the Hilliard store, and went on to give the pizza a score of 8.1, which for his notoriously stingy grading system tied the highest mark Portnoy has ever given an Ohio Pizzeria (only Toledo’s Stubborn Brother Pizza Bar has seen such a grade in the Buckeye state).

For some, Sexton’s popularity seemed to have exploded overnight (although the eatery still enjoyed plenty of diehard fans beforehand), but the pies served to Portnoy and so many since were a much longer time coming.

In fact, the original idea for the concept spans nearly 15 years into the past.

“I was living in Florida in 2010, and the idea was to create Buckeye Pizza down there, because we couldn’t find any Columbus-style pizza,” Joey said.

After oscillating between stints as a musician and the military, he and his family relocated to Columbus, where Joey reunited with Jamey to launch the first Sexton’s Pizza in 2019, located in a small East Broad Street shop that has since closed as the brand has grown.

What has also grown alongside the Sexton’s name is the quality and consistency of their food. In fact, Sexton’s 2019 grand opening marked only the beginning of his quest to create the perfect pizza dough, and do so on a consistent basis.

Pretty quickly, he became “obsessed” with honing Sexton’s recipe, creating a “clean” dough (meaning it only contains flour, water, yeast and sea salt, as opposed to sugars, syrups and other additives) that was delicious, light, and remarkably easy on the stomach.

Sounds great, right? It was, and is, but being able to make dough that met Sexton’s remarkably high standards proved difficult to do on a consistent basis.

As the two brothers meticulously dialed in their recipe, Joey said, Sexton’s continued to grow as well. Opening a Gahanna

↑ Sexton’s pizza

store next, the brothers followed with a Hilliard location in 2022 and a Victorian Village-area shop earlier this year.

“At this point, months and months have gone by, and it still felt like we were babysitting every pizza,” he said. “As soon as we opened [our Gahanna location] we thought we would have been further along, but we kept plugging away.”

The Sextons even consulted a handful of pizza experts along the way. First, they turned to world pizza titlewinning chef (and MasterClass instructor) Tony Gemignani, colloquially known as “The G.O.A.T of Pizza,” in addition to “the dough whisperer” Noel Brohner.

“We started having Zoom consultations with [Brohner], and it changed our lives,” Joey Sexton laughed. “We knew what we wanted to do, but not how to get there. He showed us how to get there.”

What the Sextons wanted, and what they’ve now learned to make at a consistent clip, is a two-day dough (meaning it takes two days to complete), that’s bulk fermented to make the dough airy and light. The pizzas are cooked well-done, with a hint of char and an aggressive crispiness accentuating their recipe. As for sauce, Sexton said, “It’s not really even a sauce; it’s just season-picked tomatoes.”

The end result is a pizza that’s simple, but deeply nuanced, and incredibly easy to eat. Wisely, the Sextons have hitched their wagons to it. The only problem with this, Joey said, is that after receiving their 8.1 rating, demand for their pies exploded, and artisan dough that takes two days to complete isn’t something that can be prepared on short notice.

But as Sexton’s continues to take Columbus by storm, one pizza at a time, that’s a problem Joey and Jamey are just fine with. ♦

To learn more, visit sextonspizza.com

↓ The Sexton brothers pose with pizzas

By Sav McKee /

Pfeifer

Behind every great pizza in Columbus is a great mind. Whether it’s the art of knowing when to innovate or the mastery of preserving tradition, the pizzeria entrepreneurs of Columbus have a vision, and the audacity, to redefine boundaries.

We’re highlighting three owners of three iconic pizzerias that grace Columbus: Brad Rocco, the driving force behind Bexley Pizza Plus, Faith Pierce, the creative genius of Yellow Brick Pizza and Pie of the Tiger, and Robert DelliQuadri, a key figure of Meatball Mafia. Beyond just creating incredible pizzas and steering successful businesses, these individuals are deeply committed to their craft and their communities.

Photos by Sarah

Meet three masters of Columbus pizza, and who they are beyond just cheese and pepperoni

After college graduation, Brad Rocco stood at a crossroad: the first route he could choose was a more conventional journey, paved by his Business Management degree from Franklin University, offering him a stable career. But this self proclaimed “pizza freak” opted for the road less traveled –one paved with cheese and pepperoni instead.

In 1983, Rocco started a part-time gig at a local pizzeria, Bexley Pizza Plus (BPP). “I was looking for a delivery job to make some bucks as a college student,” he recalled. “Then, I just kept working there throughout college. Eventually, I became the manager.” Then, in 1990, the BPP owner, Don Schmitt, recognized Rocco’s hard work and dedication to all things pizza, and he offered Rocco a co-ownership position. It was an offer Rocco couldn't refuse, and to this day, he has no regrets about doing so.

In a world where change is constant in our city, Bexley Pizza Plus remains an anomaly. Just like they haven’t changed ownership in decades, they also haven’t changed any part of their recipe, albeit the addition of more topping choices. “We haven’t changed a thing since 1980,” laughed Rocco. “I’m talking from the brand of the flour we use, to the brand of the cheese, to the same basic recipe, we’re doing everything now that we did then.”

I asked Rocco what makes BPP such a staple in the East Side community – their consistency, reliability, and steadfast dedication to crafting the perfect pie every order? “I wish I could answer what makes us so popular,” he admitted. “The one thing I can put my finger on is how entrenched we are in the community.”

Yes, Rocco and his team make a delectable pizza, but BPP’s popularity and allure extends far beyond just flavor. Rocco explained that their pizza has proudly woven itself into the fabric of Bexley’s culture, almost becoming a mission. It’s in the hands of proud parents at Bexley High School sports games, and it’s served on the foldable card tables at community fundraisers and charities. “Pizza is a community thing – and our involvement in our own community comes back tenfold,” Rocco elaborated.

Rocco, being as humble as he is, almost forgot to mention the fact that another reason why Bexley might consider this their quintessential neighborhood pizzeria is because it’s quite literally considered some of the best pizza in the entire world.

In 2014, Rocco won the champion title at the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas, beating sixty other competitors in the category of “Best Traditional Pizza.” He used the same recipe that dates back to 1992, with a fusion of zesty pepperoni, dual mushroom varieties, and a blend of romano, provolone, and mozzarella cheeses. →

•2651 E Main St., Columbus, OH

And his secret to the “Best Traditional Pizza in the World” title? “Well, we actually made our dough on the marble counters of the bathroom of an MGM hotel,” Rocco chuckled. “We even brought our own water with us because we heard the water sucks in Vegas. And, well, it all worked out.”

You won’t find Rocco competing in any more pizza challenges, although most of Rocco’s hobbies revolve around…yup, you guessed it…pizza! When he’s not busy helping out when and where he can at BPP, he’s researching the history of pizza or exploring his new craft hobby of baking Neapolitan pizzas at home in his own personal pizza oven.

His devotion to pizza finds its equal in his devotion to Bexley. As a Bexley High School alumnus, and as someone who’s lived here pretty much his entire life, his roots run deep within the Bexley community.

Brad Rocco is more than just a shop owner; he’s the embodiment of passion for both pizza and the people who eat it.

Artsy, wacky, nostalgic, offbeat, comfortable, and great quality,” are the words Faith Pierce used to encapsulate her two pizza havens, Yellow Brick Pizza and Pie of the Tiger. Interestingly enough, it almost seemed as if she was describing herself, too. When I pointed that out, Pierce laughed, “Yes, it almost is a reflection of my own personality – everything about Yellow Brick and Pie of the Tiger is a reflection of who I am at my core and a reflection of my journey in the last 13 years…It’s impossible to do something that isn’t who I am.”

↑ Brad Rocco, Photo by Cassidy Lee

So, who exactly is Faith Pierce, pizza extraordinaire? She’s a quirky English major with a creative writing minor, a devoted family person, and a mother to a four and sevenyear-old. Our chat revealed her dedication to her family –despite being a busy business owner, she was taking her son to Target that day to let him pick out an item of his choice. When she’s not creating a new, crazy concept at Yellow Brick, like a Street Corn Pie, she finds solace in playing music with her friends, brushing up on her French, and exploring other various and numerous interests. “Unfortunately, my other interests don’t generate money though,” she laughed.

Her path to “generating money,” as she put it, began when the market crashed in 2008. Pierce was forced to reevaluate her job in the financial services industry, to the point where she pivoted to the restaurant industry to supplement her income. “I told myself I would only do this for a year,” she recounted.

However, destiny had other plans. The pizza shop she started working at in 2010, Yellow Brick Pizza, where she was swiftly promoted to the manager, went up for sale. She and her partner at the time, Robert Silver, always harbored dreams of launching their own breakfast concept, and Pierce said to Silver one day, “Yellow Brick is for sale. Why don’t we just buy a restaurant instead of making one from scratch?”

And so, they did. Pierce and Silver bought Yellow Brick Pizza in 2011, and although their marital status may have changed, their joint ownership of Yellow Brick Pizza and Pie of the Tiger, along with an Olde Towne East bar, the Oracle, all have remained remarkably successful. →

← Faith Pierce

“There’s a huge fan base with Yellow Brick,” Pierce explained. “I’m making stuff that makes people happy, and that matters to me.” Yellow Brick serves “Southern Californiastyle” pizza, according to Pierce, which is crispier than New York-style. It’s hand-tossed, the crust is less airy, it cracks when it folds, and most importantly, “It’s at the point where I want it to be,” emphasized Pierce.

She has also expertly honed the Chicago deep-dish recipe at Yellow Brick, as well as a signature Detroit-style at Pie of the Tiger, located inside Short North Tavern. “Personally, as someone who eats pizza every single day, I really enjoy every single one of those styles,” Pierce shared. “My favorite depends on where I’m at and what I’m doing –my favorite quick snack or on-the-go option is a slice of our hand-tossed pizza from East Market, but if I’m sitting down to indulge myself, then I like the Chicago-style stuffed pizza, and our Detroit-style is fun to share with friends.”

Although everything about pizza is awesome, “I can’t pretend like everything about being a business owner is awesome,” Pierce vulnerably explained.

In particular, the COVID-19 pandemic has been extremely daunting on most restaurant owners, including Pierce. “My fight or flight and anxiety hasn’t worn off. The restaurant industry is forever changing – everything is different. I have my good days and bad days. I wonder sometimes why I’m still doing what I’m doing – the game has changed so much…It’s been wild,” she said.

Nonetheless, Pierce’s first name isn’t “Faith” for nothin’. Her resilience is unwavering, and she’s focused on taking it one day at a time with renewed vigor. Right now, she’s dedicated to rebuilding Yellow Brick Pizza’s Franklinton location to be that ultimate neighborhood spot again. “A lot of people that discovered us in the past 3 years don’t know what it used to be like – wild pizza, a cool environment, and quality beer,” she noted.

One thing is abundantly clear: Faith Pierce refuses to be “mainstream vanilla” and “completely digestible,” in her own words, and her pizza establishments full-heartedly reverberate that sentiment. She explained, “If we’re not creating a business as some kind of manifestation of who we are, then it’s not worth it.” ♦

Columbus is a city of opportunity,” remarked Robert DelliQuadri, acknowledging the city’s affinity for excellent pizza. Luckily, he knows how to make one.

DelliQuadri’s pizza journey started in Youngstown, Ohio, where he grew up eating authentic Italian dishes prepared by his Italian grandmother – think meatballs in homemade, simmering sauces – alongside pan-pizzas served at their local church, St. Anthony’s. His love for both his grandmother’s recipes and his weekly church pies sparked an unexpected journey that led to the genesis of his own Italian-inspired establishment: Meatball Mafia. “I caught the entrepreneurial bug and couldn’t go back,” he explained.

“I didn't go to school for any of this. My degree from Ohio State was in Sociology. I went to graduate school at Ohio University for Sociology, and a Masters of Public Health, neither of which I finished,” shared DelliQuadri.

Despite its challenges, the path of entrepreneurship seems to be rewarding for DelliQuadri. Whether he’s driving to Ace Hardware for a 48 inch thermocouple to fix their old school Blodgett deck oven on a bustling weekend, or developing new recipes for his own shop, it’s clear that he’s embraced his calling. Plus, he’s being rewarded for it. In 2017, when the DelliQuadris still operated Meatball Mafia out of a food truck, they took home the 2nd place prize at the Columbus Food Truck Festival. With their recipe fine-tuned, they seized 1st place a year later in 2018.

“Many of us don’t get a chance to make it back to Youngstown these days…our customers miss home as much as we do. They appreciate the flavors being available in their new home of Central Ohio, and Youngstowners are vocal, so when we like something, we tell everybody!” emphasized DelliQuadri.

Their popularity spread quickly, and DelliQuadri realized the tastes of their hometown resonated beyond the Youngstown Italian community. So in 2022, they ventured into Historic Dublin, serving their food at a bar, Missing Jimmy’s. Following that success, they then opened another location in Center Street Market in Hilliard, serving their signature pan style pizzas, which DelliQuadri describes as being medium thick, loaded with cheese, and cut into slices instead of squares. Most importantly, pies that would undoubtedly earn his grandmother’s approval.

•5354 Center St., Hilliard, OH 43026/ 55 S High St., Dublin, OH 43017

↑ Faith Pierce tossing pizza dough

Reflecting back on his journey, DelliQuadri remarked that ultimately, his career path has been incredibly satisfying, whether it’s mingling with his customers or even witnessing the growth of his highschool employees. “When you hire a 16 year old kid who works for you though highschool, then comes back to work in the summer when he gets home from college, just seeing them grow up and care about this business you built has been really rewarding. I didn’t expect it…we’re like any other Mafia. Once you’re in, you can never get out!” he joked.

While his academic path didn’t include “pizza shop ownership,” the entrepreneurial bug he caught ignited a fire and transformed his identity from Sociology Major to Mafia Member. (Meatball Mafia member, that is.)

Their popularity spread quickly, and DelliQuadri realized the tastes of their hometown resonated beyond the Youngstown Italian community. So in late 2020, they ventured into a brick and mortar home in Hilliard’s Center Street Market. Then, in 2022, he opened Missing Jimmy’s, a Jimmy Hoffa-themed bar that serves Meatball Mafia pizza, which DelliQuadri describes as being medium thick, loaded with cheese, and cut into slices instead of squares. Most importantly, pies that would undoubtedly earn his grandmother’s approval. ♦

↑ Robert Delliquadri

By Matt Mahoney

It’s about 4 o’clock on a Friday, and things are ramping up at Hilltop’s Westside Slice. It’s hot outside, and even hotter in the kitchen, as temps inside regularly reach into the triple digits with the pizza oven on all day. The locale is unassuming but quaint.

Diners can find Westside Slice – now in its eighth month of operation – tucked into a corner of a shopping center near the intersection of Demorest and Briggs. If you haven’t been paying attention, you might not have heard of this pizzeria, but I have a feeling you soon might, as it could the best new pizza spot on the Westside of town, if not Columbus as a whole.

Hilltop native Danny Jones brings food, family and really, really good pizza to the city’s West Side

↓ Exterior of Westside Slice

In more ways than one, something is bubbling at Westside Slice. On one hand, the cheese is always hot, gooey and melty as one might expect with a quality pizza. In other ways, this sentiment runs deeper. Westside Slice has become a hot topic among pizza fans as conversions on Facebook’s “Pizza Aficionados of Columbus” page suggests. Westside Slice is a burgeoning operation as all signs suggest; and I want to know why.

I head to Westside Slice one afternoon to chat with Danny Jones, the proprietor of this fine institution. Throughout our conversation, what strikes me the most about Danny is his demeanor. As he darts from task to task, he constantly has a smile on his face, cracking a joke here and there when needed. Take it from me, this is an impressive feat: I’ve worked in enough hot kitchens in my lifetime to know how taxing working in such an environment can be. It rubs off on people too, as staff and customers alike – and even myself – start to crack a smile when he enters the room.

“First I started trying to make the recipe for the sauce” he told me after I inquired about the process of opening Westside Slice. “It’s nothing like anything you’re going to have around here.” After going through batches and batches of sauces, using different recipes, he said he finally found the perfect formula: “I let the family have another test run and they said ‘this is it’… From that point on, I’ve been using the same ingredients.”

I approach his sauce claims with a degree of skepticism, but a quick sample of Danny Jones’ secret recipe quickly dispels any concerns. Westside Slice’s is a thicker sauce with a deep, rich tomato flavor, perfect for the style of pizza they offer.

Westside Slice offers their own take on classic, Columbus-style pizza. The crust is thin, and yet surprisingly airy for a Columbus-style slice. And square cut of course. The pizza is certainly one part of the equation here, but on the other side of the coin, family and community also play a role in Westside Slice’s success.

This Pizzeria is through and through a family and community oriented operation. In less than an hour at the store, I met Danny’s mother, father and wife (also a coowner), all of whom hop in to offer their assistance when needed. Danny’s nephew and a few other students from Franklin Heights High School down the street pitch in parttime, and it’s not for nothing either, as the orders start rolling in immediately after the 4 PM opening.

He doesn’t say it outright, but even a brief conversation with Danny will reveal that this man has dreams. The peculiar thing about it however, especially for a business owner, is that he never mentions getting rich, not even once. No, every fantasy of the future Danny shares with me revolves around giving back to the community that has been responsible for Westside Slice’s success so far. →

“I want people’s families to come in for Ohio State games, Cincinnati games, you know? I want this to be a staple of the community so that people can come in here and just relax. We’re getting benches here so the guys can come out here after the football games and just chill. We’re here about the community, man.”

In the long term, Danny has aspirations to sell his pizza in a more formal sit-down environment; yet, despite the fortune that expanding into a regional chain might bring, Danny’s desire to do so seems to be borne out of - once again - a desire to serve his community. “I enjoy every bit and part of it, because I want to give back to the neighborhood just as they did when I was younger, you know what I mean?” he explained.

I grab a pizza for the road and hang out in the lobby playing Galaga for a few moments while Danny prepares my masterpiece. I briefly chat with a customer, Theresa, about what she enjoys the most about Westside Slice. While the crust and sauce make it one of Theresa’s favorite slices in Columbus, the true attraction of Westside Slice is the people. “The people here, I love them. They are so nice, so friendly,” she said.

Moments later, Danny emerges from the kitchen with my pizza in hand. I grab a corner slice before I hit the road and I’m glad I did, because let me tell you – this pizza is something special. Theresa wasn’t joking around about the crust. It occupies a “best-of-both-worlds” position, taking the crunch of thin crust and chewiness of a wood-fired pizza and amalgamating them into something wonderful.

I thank Danny and company for their time and then dart off to my car to hide my depravity before gorging myself on a few more slices. I can’t help it – it’s really good pizza. I help myself to another slice, and with melted cheese dangling from my maw, I make eye contact with Danny as he strolls through the parking lot. He wears a cheeky grin on his face, as if to say “I told you so.” This is a man who takes pride in his pizza, as he should. ♦

I want people’s families to come in for Ohio State games, Cincinnati games, you know?...We’re getting benches here so the guys can come out here after the football games and just chill. We’re here about the community, man.”

Westside Slice owners Danny and Tanya Jones ↓

The Westside Slice kitchen in action ↓

Danny Jones serves a customer ↓

By Laura Hennigan

The ever-growing Bethel Road food corridor has expanded even further with a new pizza place. Luna Pizza Kitchen opened in July, taking over the space that formerly housed a Romeo’s. Owner Waqas Shafiq already operates one Luna at Tuttle Crossing and is excited to expand the brand. With fresh dough made daily, the Columbus-style pies come with one of several signature sauces, including Forte, Spicy Arrabiata and Sweet Dolce. In addition, Luna serves up stromboli, subs and salads, as well as halal options.

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Five new Columbus pizzerias you need to try

↑ Photo courtesy of Luna Pizza Kitchen

After working together for several years at a local hospitality group, Billy Bazemore and Todd Crow were ready to forge a new path and begin perfecting their long-discussed pizza concept. “We love East Coast-style pizzas, so that was our inspiration,” said Crow. “We wanted to create something that was unique to this area. There’s a lot of pizza in Columbus, so if you’re going to open another pizza shop it has to stand out.”

Operating out of the Pointe Tavern on Riverside Dr., Bazemore Pizza serves pies that are a hybrid of the styles found in New York, New Haven, CT and Trenton, NJ. Made with a mixture of several high-quality flours, the artisan pizzas are finished with sauce on top, along with grated Romano cheese and garlic oil. “We have visions of opening other locations eventually, but this has been a great place to start,” said Bazemore. “We like how the location is smaller, which really allows us to focus on the food and the guests. We wanted to use as many local, quality ingredients as possible, and everything we make in the kitchen is from scratch.”

The owners of the Old Bag of Nails at 2102 Tremont Center tested out their pizza concept sporadically (and quietly) for quite awhile before officially launching the Upper Arlington Pizza Club last year. Although the two restaurants share a space, the Pizza Club is a standalone eatery, serving both New York and Midwest-style pies. Both styles are based on family recipes, with the dough and sauce being made in-house. They also stick with what they are good at, only offering pizza at this time, although a few salad selections should be on the menu soon. There are many toppings to choose from, as well as both gluten-free and vegan cheese options for those with dietary restrictions.

Owned by husband and wife Danny and Tanya Jones, Westside Slice opened in February and has quickly made a name for itself at its Hilltop location. Danny long dreamed of opening his own pizza place, so when an opportunity to launch his idea became available just down the road from his parents, they decided to go for it. “We pride ourselves on quality… I make the sauce and the dough is made fresh daily,” he said.

Westside Slice offers traditional, square-cut pies with topping options like beef and turkey pepperoni, as well as Hilltop habanero wings and Burnside bowls, a crustless option for those seeking a low-carb pizza experience. “We really appreciate the support that all of Columbus has shown us, not just customers on the Westside,” said Danny. “Our hope is that we can just keep growing and serving great pizza.”

↑ Photo courtesy of Bazemore Pizza

↑ Photo courtesy of Upper Arlington Pizza Club

Like its famous namesake, Pizza Pizza 007 on Indianola Ave in Clintonville does it all. Owner Mustafa “Mike” Khalil took over the former Papa Giorgio’s space, and created a menu that includes not only an extensive selection of specialty pizzas, but also gyros, wings, salads, subs, pastas, and desserts. The round pie is cut into triangle slices and can be ordered with all the traditional toppings, along with some unique standouts like the donair pizza, featuring donair meat and tzatziki sauce, or the seafood pizza, topped with shrimp, crab and onions.

↓ Photo courtesy of Pizza Pizza 007

Vol. 3!

From tea-flavored fruit snacks to Little

By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Sarah Pfeifer Story Design by Tori Smith

Little Debbie Zebra Cake-Inspired Ice Cream

I’ll start out by saying the Zebra Cake is a national treasure, and quite possibly the greatest Little Debbie creation of all time (a bold claim, I know). It’s my fault for not reading the fine print here, though. The key word in this case is “inspired.” While there’s absolutely nothing wrong with vanilla ice cream with a fudge swirl, this is pretty much all I tasted. I couldn’t detect any of the white cake pieces that the internet tells me are in this ice cream (although my college swears they found a few). While this by no means implies this ice cream is bad— because it tastes just fine—it’s not the Zebra Cake dessert I was dreaming of.

6/10

Little Debbie Pumpkin Cookie Ice Cream

10/10

Unlike our previous entry, there’s no “inspired” on this package, and I needed no extra inspiration to give this seasonal treat a perfect score. While I have an affinity for anything fall-themed—especially when it involves Halloween—this autumnal dessert would probably still have received a perfect score anyway. The pumpkin flavor is subtle but definitely present, and the cookie pieces add texture and a nice richness to an already-indulgent treat.

Debbie’s fall flavors, editor Jack McLaughlin tries some of the most unique new snacks we could find, so you don’t have to

Frankfort Oscar Mayer Gummy Hot Dog

We’ve technically tried gummy hot dogs before, but those were bite-sized, cartoonish recreations. These could potentially be mistaken for the real thing. There’s a cognitive dissonance that enters when you’re eating something that looks close enough to the real thing, and comes in a set that mimics hot dog packaging as well. This aspect creates a fun novelty, and the flavor of these (some sort of peach variation) is great. They had a strange processed smell and an even stranger tacky texture that I couldn’t totally get over. Maybe try eating them with a knife and fork.

4/10

Arizona Iced Tea Fruit Snacks

7/10

ICED TEA FLAVOR

Hawaiian Punch Cotton Candy

On paper, this one has some real potential: take cotton candy, then add a jolt of fruit flavor (although more accurately I’d describe Hawaiian Punch as the taste of the color red) and some food dye. In reality, this really just tasted like cotton candy to me. It also just looked like cotton candy, with a similar pale pink color. Don’t get me wrong, regular cotton candy is great, and my score reflects that, but if you’re hoping for something uniquely Hawaiian Punch-y, this might not be the snack for you.

6/10

Little Debbie Fall PARTY Cake and Brownie

If I’m being completely honest, I expected these to be bad. In some ways, I wanted them to be, for my own validation. While the packaging and flavors are confusing (it’s difficult to tell what is what due to a lack of variation between colors and shapes), the original iced tea flavor, one of four total flavors, was surprisingly really good. The actual tea taste present but not overpowering, and it was backed by just the right amount of sweetness. The can-shaped gummies are a fun touch as well.

7/10 5/10

ALL OTHER FLAVORS

PARTY CAKE

6/10

BROWNIE

While the Little Debbie Zebra Cake holds a special place in my heart, the other varieties (outside of Donut Sticks), I’ve always found to be good, not great. Both of these seasonal snacks are good in their own right, and represent a riff on other Little Debbie snacks. The Pumpkin Brownie tastes similar to a Cosmic Brownie (no discernable pumpkin notes here), swapping the regular multi-colored candy topping for orange icing done up like a grinning pumpkin. The Fall Party Cakes seem to be a chocolate version of the Little Debbie Birthday Cakes, only shaped differently, and featuring a different variety of sprinkles. Nothing wrong with that

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Regional Pizza Styles Your Guide to:

Columbus pizza? Altoona-style pie? And what the heck is Brier Hill? We dish out the details of pizza styles in Ohio and surrounding states

If there’s anything I know about Midwesterners, it’s that we love our pizza. Whether it’s a weekend party, an office lunch, or even a casual night of takeout, we’ll take any excuse to order a pizza. In addition to your basic, chain-restaurant pizza, tons of regional styles exist in Ohio and surrounding states, including some that may be totally new to you. Some you may have to travel to, but many of them are available right here in Columbus (the pizzerias listed operate in Columbus location(s) unless otherwise noted). →

By Sarah Grace Smith / Story Design by Atlas Biro

LOCAL Columbus Style

As an Ohio native, I didn’t even know I had grown up on Columbus-style—I thought it was just good pizza! Known for its thin crust, rectangle slices, and loads of toppings, Columbus pizza serves a uniquely Midwestern flavor. Unlike the thin crust of New York, Columbus’ is almost flaky, with a crispy texture that sometimes bubbles. Although the crust is almost impossibly thin, it's surprisingly strong, and able to hold mounds of pepperoni or sausage, which are two common go-tos around here. On a Cbus-style pizza, there are so many toppings you barely see the cheese. But don’t worry –your taste buds will definitely know it's there.

Photo courtesy of Massey's

IN OHIO

Brier Hill

Youngstown prides itself on their unique Brier Hill pizza. It uses a bready dough with a little bit of crunch. The toppings include a thick and savory tomato sauce, hot bell peppers, and a sprinkle of Romano cheese rather than the usual mozzarella. A classic, meatless pie in Youngstown, many churches sell these pizzas as fundraisers during Lent. Luckily, you don’t have to travel three hours up north, as a few nearby places offer them as well.

Ohio Valley

Created in Steubenville by WWII veteran Primo DiCarlo trying to recreate Italian cuisine, Ohio Valley pizza features a thick square crust topped with sweet tomato sauce and cold, uncooked toppings. The pizza is often cooked twice: first with some sauce to help the crust begin to rise, then next with more sauce and a small layer of cheese. When it’s done, more cheese and cold toppings are layered on top before the pizza is cut into servingsized squares.

Try for yourself: Missing Jimmy's/Meatball Mafia, Old Town Tavern, Borgata Pizza Café (by request), Wedgewood Pizza (Youngstown)

Try for yourself: DiCarlo's Pizza, Ray's Pizza (Wintersville, OH), Iggy's Pizza (Toronto, OH)

Photo courtesy of Missing Jimmy's

Photo courtesy of DiCarlo's Pizza

OTHER STATES

Chicago Deep-Dish Chicago Tavern Style

This lesser known Chicago style is similar to Columbus’ own, although it differs slightly in terms of ingredients and likely predates its Columbus counterpart according to Columbus pizza historian Jim Ellison. Hailing from Chicago’s South Side, it involves cracker-thin crust cut into small square slices. It evolved in—you guessed it—taverns as a snack to accompany beer and spirits. The dough is rolled rather than tossed, leading to its thinness. According to GrubHub data, this style actually outsells the more famous deep-dish among local Chicagoans. Unfortunately, to get this authentic Chicago tavern style, you’ll have to travel all the way to the Windy City to grab a slice.

Try for yourself: Vito & Nick's Pizzeria (Chicago), Candelite Chicago (Chicago), Dino's Italian Pizza (Chicago), Pat's Pizzeria (Chicago), Barnaby's (Chicago)

Altoona Style (Pennsylvania)

Altoona pizza is recognized by the controversial slices of American cheese that top it. The crust is thick and doughy, characteristic of a Sicilian-style pizza dough like that of the Detroit-style. It’s traditionally topped with sauce, green bell peppers, salami, and then American cheese. It almost looks like an open-faced grilled cheese with the melted, yellow cheese slices topping it. If you’re game to try this culinary creation, you’ll have to schedule a road trip to Pennsylvania.

Try for yourself: 29th Street Pizza (Altoona), Zach's Sports Bar (Altoona)

We all know about Chicago deep-dish: the famously delicious pie-like pizza with cheese on the bottom and sauce on top. Its thick and high crust edges provide ample space to fill with loads of cheese, heaps of toppings, and chunky tomato sauce (in that order). Baked in a pan, this pizza’s crust comes out slightly fried due to the oil—yum! Just as popular, Chicago stuffed pizza is made the exact same way but with an additional layer of crust on top of the cheese.

Detroit Style

Another deep-dish pizza, Detroit pizza uses its extra space for fluffy, chewy dough rather than sauce. To even be considered Detroit-style, the pizza should be at least 1.5 inches thick. This rectangular pizza is topped with mozzarella or Wisconsin brick cheese which caramelizes against the pan, giving the crust edges a crispy, cheesy finish.

*Pie of the Tiger owner Faith Pierce considers their pies to be a blend of several pizza styles, including Detroit and Sicilian.

Try for yourself: Giordano's, Romeo's Pizza, Yellow Brick Pizza, Meister's Bar

Try for yourself: Buddy's Pizza (Detroit), Loui's Pizza (Detroit), Square Slice Pizzeria, Pie of the Tiger*

Photos courtesy of Giordano's

Photos courtesy of Pie of the Tiger

Photo courtesy of Dino's Italian Pizza

Photo courtesy of 29th Street Pizza

PERFECT WITH PIZZA