Stock & Barrel Spring 2022 by 614mediagroup

31 Spring 2022

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BIG PICTURE Looking to try some new deliciously crafted cocktails? Kona Craft Kitchen, the new Bridge Park restaurant, is serving up a variety of refreshing drinks this spring! To learn more, go to page 28 PHOTO BY AARON MASSEY

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CONTENTS 37

HOME GROWN From vertical farms to farm-to-table restaurants, we get to the roots of gardenfresh Columbus cuisine

THYME FOR A DRINK

SOUTHERN SWEETS

Seven herb-forward Columbus cocktails to celebrate spring with

How two Columbus cousins with Louisiana roots launched an authentic, indulgent eatery dedicated to beignets

LAGER SEASON

REBUILDING DA LEVEE

Five local, easy-drinking lagers to make your spring shine

Why this wildly-popular Creole restaurant closed for more than two years, and how owner Justin Boehme brought it back from the dead

PHOTO BY SARAH PFEIFER

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Opening Volley PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Lindsay Press EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jack McLaughlin

J AC K M C L AU G H L I N Editor-In-Chief

A BIT OF

Spring IN OUR

When I was younger–until my mid 20s, I’d say–I struggled with the spring. It might sound funny, but it’s true. For some reason, despite the sunshine and new greenery–despite the world quite literally coming back to life–I couldn’t enjoy it. And I learned after a lot of thought that this was because I had become conditioned to academic time. What I mean by that is, after going to school for over two consecutive decades, spring to me always felt like the end of something, because May is typically when my school years would finish. I loved school–loved being social and seeing my friends on a daily basis–and because of all this, somehow my internal timeline got turned on its head. When I was 23 or 24, after finishing grad school, I started learning about gardening. Not a lot, mind you (I still have a difficult time keeping plants alive, for the record), but there was something about my time in nature and in the garden during those first few years out of school that allowed me to reacclimate. Paying attention to when plants would start

STEP...

growing, to the cycle of things in the actual, physical world, helped me get past my hang-ups on the spring. It helped me enjoy the season, to appreciate the mild weather and abundance of new life for what it is: pretty amazing. That was a large part of the inspiration for this issue of Stock & Barrel, Spring 2022: to get us all to pay attention to the natural world just a bit more, to the all great growers, to the great growing things, we have in Central Ohio. I think, especially now, this kind of attention is important in another way, too. With COVID still ravaging supply chains, getting closer to our food, really understanding where it comes from and what it takes to create, is more meaningful than ever. From vertical farms to pig farm breweries, we’ve covered a wide range of growing-related topics. That means you’ve got a lot of great content on your plate. So welcome to spring, Columbus. Welcome to Regional Roots. Let’s dig in.

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Maddie Schroeder, Leonardo Carrizo Aaron Massey Tucker Gilkerson Sarah Pfeifer CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jack McLaughlin, Melinda Green,

Sarah Sole, Jim Fischer Melissa Braithwaite, Ellyn Briggs, LEAD DESIGNER PRINT/MAGAZINE Emma Quinn LEAD DESIGNER CREATIVE SERVICES Willem Kern CREATIVE DESIGNER Bryce Patterson VIDEO PRODUCER / EDITOR Austin Black DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Justynne Pride MARKETING COORDINATOR Julia Attanasio ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nikki Harris Mindy Wilhite BRAND MANAGER, 614 LAGER Lizzy Saunders OFFICE MANAGER Janae Brown

Questions about advertising? Scan here!

Created by

"AS SOMEONE WHO GOES BACKPACKING MULTIPLE TIMES A YEAR I HAVE NOT CLU E HOW I DON'T HAVE MORE PICTURES..."

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(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 | Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614now.com www.614now.com 21

CALENDAR From craft beer to lots and lots of tacos, this spring is full of food-focused events you don’t want to miss. Check out a few of our favorites, and keep an eye on 614NOW.com for more news.

Columbus Beerfest April 15-16 Location: Greater Columbus Convention Center

Soupfest 2022 April 30 Location: The Valley Dale Ballroom

Columbus Taco Fest May 14-15 Location: Genoa Park Spring Cocktail Competition April 25 Location: Le Méridien Columbus, The Joseph 614NOW.COM

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STAFF PICKS B y S to c k & B a r re l sta f f

What’s your favorite garden-fresh food?

Since we’re focusing on Columbus farmers and locally-grown food in our Spring 2022 issue of Stock & Barrel, we’ve asked our staff here to dig into the soil and pull out their favorite recipes involving fresh food, too. Here’s what they said... A good tomato bisque using some fresh heirloom tomatoes and basil always hits the spot!

I’ll sometimes eat a plain ear of corn if it’s picked fresh. Is that weird?

Meggin Weimerskirch

Jack McLaughlin

Emma Quinn

Advertising Director

Editor-In-Chief

Lead Designer - Print/Magazine

Gazpacho! All the freshness & I feel like it's super healthy too!

Love a good Caprese salad! Roasted red pepper cream pasta with fresh peppers from the garden, such a nice switch up from normal tomato based spaghetti sauce

Tomatoes straight from the vine! Cut them up and load with salt - my favorite snack.

Lizzy Saunders,

Nikki Harris

Brand Manager, (614) Beer

Lindsay Press CEO

I get all my vegetables straight from McDonalds

Willem Kern

Senior Account Executive

Lead Designer - Creative Services

PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING

↑ Pampered Chef Rapid-Prep Mandoline , This kitchen gadget is great for all of your spring time veggie prep! (pamperedchef.com)

↑ Wolfs Ridge Beer Ideas of Haze , A juicy IPA with notes of floral and pine and flavors of pineapple, grapefruit, guava, and fresh orange peel. Great for sipping outside!

↑ International Acacia Wave Serving Bowl , Spring dinner parties are right around the corner, and with this stylish wooden bowl your fresh fruit or salad is ready to be served! (amazon.com)

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↑ Roots Ohio Rainbow Planter , Looking for some colorful decor for your home this upcoming season? Roots Ohio has you covered with cute unique planters.

SS PLA

61 4 VI D E O Did you know that (614) launched a YouTube channel with some very shareable video content? It’s true. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, check out the newest videos on our channel: now playing...

• Tasting Columbus—NEW episode! Have you checked out our TV show “Tasting Columbus?” Join food scientist Matt Teegarden as he eats his way through Columbus’ food scene. A NEW episode dropped on Sept. 27th. Make sure to tune in at tastingcolumbus.com or scan the QR code above.

now playing...

Only in Dublin: Dublin Village Tavern Channel that inner Irish spirit! Standing for over a century, the Dublin Village tavern has undergone quite a few changes in its lifetime. Featuring traditional Irish tavern fare and cuisines, and more than a few authentic Irish whiskey imports, we guarantee there is something you'll love that will leave you feeling full of Irish pride! Scan the QR code here. →

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WHAT 'S YOUR RECIPE? Farm-Fresh Basil Watermelon Salad MEGGIN WEIMERSKIRCH

Advertising Director Our Advertising Director Meggin is getting into her garden to showcase one of her favorite spring salads. Here’s what she dug up. YUM SCALE

♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥♥

This five minute recipe is light, packed with flavor and super easy to make. It hits all the notes too: sweetness from the watermelon, salty olives, and savory mozzarella pearls. You can also swap out feta for mozzarella if you have a preference!

INGREDIENTS 1 Small Seedless Watermelon cut or balled into bite-sized pieces 1 Container of your favorite feta mozzarella pearls 1 Handful of fresh basil, thinly sliced

1 Cup Kalamata olives 1/2 Red onion sliced in thin rounds or small dice 1-2 tbs Olive oil 1-2 tbs Tablespoons Balsamic glaze

INSTRUCTIONS

Place chilled watermelon in a large bowl or platter Top with mozzarella, basil, onion, & olives Drizzle entire salad with olive oil & balsamic glaze SERVE CHILLED

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#EAT614 It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.

@cmrcolumbus

@therossibarandkitchen

@donnasdeliciousdozen

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@pintroomdublin

@rockmillbandit

@cambridgeteahouse

@thebarrelandbottle

@hoofheartedbreweryandkitchen

@bristolrepublic

@the.mochi.shop

@columbusbodega

@rishi_sushi

@eatingthe614

@ryeriversocial

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

(614) PIZZA TRAIL

FRANKLINTON

415 W. RICH ST. / (614) 372-5983

www.yellowbrickpizza.com

BEXLEY

2376 E. MAIN ST.

BREWERY DISTRICT 940 S. FRONT ST.

CLINTONVILLE 2285 N. HIGH ST.

DUBLIN

45 N. HIGH ST.

www.harvestpizzeria.com 20

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SHORT NORTH

674 N HIGH ST, COLUMBUS, OH 43215 ( 380 ) 210-0197

@pieofthetigerofficial

Seven herb-forward Columbus cocktails to celebrate spring By Melinda Green Photos by Maddie Schroeder Story Design by Emma Quinn

↑ Lumni Sky Bar's Violet Rose cocktail

This spring, leave the same old cocktails behind and get to know some fresh, herbal flavors. We’ve rounded up a handful of delicious options in the Short North that are sure to please the eye as well as the palate, whether you prefer your cocktails straightforward or complex. → 614NOW.COM

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Perhaps the most approachable of the bunch is Lumin Sky Bar’s Violet Rose. It’s a simple riff on a Bee’s Knees, with Watershed Four Peel gin, rosemary simple syrup, and lemon. The addition of butterfly pea flower powder gives the drink a delicate lavender hue, perfect for spring. And, while rosemary often is used as a winter flavor, here, it’s fresh and vibrant. If one purple drink isn’t enough for you, grab your friends and head over to Lincoln Social for a carafe of their Lincoln 75. It’s a cross between an Aviation and a French 75, dry and floral, with the herbal depth and bold color of lavender and a slightly sweet fruitiness from lychee and prosecco. (You can also order it as a single cocktail.) But even better, arguably, is their Thyme Killer: High Bank vodka, green tea, yellow chartreuse, thyme, lemon, and champagne. Although green tea often overpowers everything it touches, here, it’s subtle and lets the other flavors play, too. And they play nicely together. Pair it with shrimp taquitos or guacamole and have seconds. Stop by MOUTON for a couple of unique options. Their winter Garden Goddess was so popular that it's remaining on the menu for spring. It's a solid base of tequila and mezcal, boosted with a strong cucumber-parsley syrup and brightened with a bit of lime. It's emerald green and vaguely reminiscent of a veggie-packed smoothie, but so much more enticing. It’s a good thing MOUTON doesn’t serve food, because you wouldn’t want to ruin this flavor with a meal.→

Photo Courtesy of Cameron Mitchell Restaurants (in partnership with High Bank Distillery)

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Photo Courtesy of John Adkins

Then, new for spring, the Onceler is an intense spinoff on a white Manhattan. And we admit, this cocktail isn't for everyone. It's earthy, the smoke and malt of Johnnie Walker infused with starkly bitter, floral notes of Chrysanthemum, and rounded out with white vermouth, citric acid, and pungent grapefruit oil. But if those ideas sound intriguing, and you like your flavors on the complicated side, this one will definitely hold your attention. Are you excited about the reopening of Service Bar? Of course you are. And, to celebrate, stop by for a taste of the upcoming summer. Hospitality Manager David Albright wanted to pair the look of a blue sports drink with an herbal, summery, crushable profile, and Something Blue hits all those marks. This one has big cucumber flavor, matched with the herbal dryness of Manzanilla sherry, and softened with fruity notes of pear and blue curaçao. It’s refreshing and a gorgeous pale blue, perfect for dreaming of the poolside weather that seems so far away. And finally, if you’re staying zero-proof this spring, Lumin’s Garden Gimlet is approachable and sophisticated. It’s a traditional gimlet, but, in this case, the base “spirit” is alcohol-free, zero-calorie Seedlip Garden 108. With flavors of pea, spearmint, hops, thyme, and cucumber, this gimlet is a little grassy, a little tart, and worth a second round. Whatever you choose, you’re sure to start feeling like winter’s in the rear view mirror—so get out there and get one of these cocktails!

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Five local, easy-drinking lagers to make your spring shine

By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Tucker Gilkerson Story Design by Willem Kern

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Step aside, imperial stout. Now, with the weather warming up and the days getting longer, we’re ditching the dark beers in favor of their lighter counterparts. Because—let’s be real—who wants to down two high-ABV milk stouts when it’s 80 degrees and sunny? Not us. While the light lager was previously written off by some for its similarity to cheap American beers like Miller Lite or Bud Lite, the last few years have seen the lager make a serious comeback, especially in craft circles, with drinkers leaning into their subtitles and drinkability. We’re all about to hop on the bandwagon, but I can promise this won’t be a ride you’re mad about. So shed that winter coat, and get your shirt sleeves on standby. Welcome to lager season, Columbus. →

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COLUMBUS BREWING - pils There are no frills on this ultra-light, and ultra-clean CBC beer, which makes it a perfect porch companion as the weather warms up. A classic German Pilsner, this CBC brew is an exercise in subtly, deftly blending light, European malts with traditional German hops. At 5.2%, this Columbus Brewing lager hits the sweet spot for easydrinking spring brews.

GREAT LAKES - DORTMUNDER GOLD Alright, we’re cheating just a bit here, but since this beer is brewed in Ohio and also widely available throughout the state, it makes the cut. For Craft aficionados, Dortmunder Gold needs no introduction. One of the flagships of Cleveland’s venerable Great Lakes Brewing, this beer has been around since before most craft breweries were born (first brewed in 1998), and is a 16-time medal winner at the World Beer Championships.

WOLF'S RIDGE X (614) - (614) LAGER In case you didn’t know, (614) teamed up with Wolf’s Ridge Brewing last year to create our very own lager, and it’s a winner, especially if you’re leaning into the lighter side of the beer spectrum. Bright, effervescent and hugely drinkable, this is another beer demonstrating the fact that the craft lager is currently undergoing something of a renaissance, and we’re absolutely into it.

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HOOF HEARTED - FLORIDA ROOM While Central Ohio’s Hoof Hearted is well-known throughout the national craft beer scene more as an innovator–regularly launching triple milkshake IPAs and sour cheesecake ales (yes, they’ve really done this)–whenever they introduce a simpler, more traditional style like Florida Room, they don’t miss. The beer, which is a classic Pilsner that’s been tastefully dry hopped, also features the trademark character drawings of Thom Lessner, Hoof Hearted’s Art Director.

BUZZSAW - CHILLZNER If you haven’t heard of Buzzsaw Brewing yet, you’re missing out. This smaller East Side craft brewery focuses mainly on Belgian beers and traditional European styles. You can thank us for the heads up after you try their beer. Buzzsaw’s Chillzner is a masterclass in simplicity, featuring traditional Saaz hops and Pilsner malt with just a touch of sweetness for a beer that’s ultra-clear and just as thirst quenching.

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↑ Kona's crafted cocktails

Photo Courtesy of Illumination Studio

The new eatery a Dublin couple designed to take your senses on a journey By Sarah Sole / Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Emma Quinn

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The vision for Kona Craft Kitchen + Bar all started with a trip to Hawaii in July 2019. On a morning walk in Waikiki, Stacy Leary spotted a coffee shop and told her husband, Frank, to come see it for himself. For the next three or four days, the Learys visited Kona Coffee Purveyors three times a day. They weren’t the only ones smitten—the spot consistently had lines out the door for coffee and fresh baked goods. “It was an unbelievable experience,” Stacy said. The couple left Hawaii certain of two things: First, they had fallen madly in love with Kona coffee—a beverage featuring hand-picked coffee beans grown in a specific section of Hawaii’s Big Island. Second, they were going to open an eatery featuring this coffee, serving not only fresh baked goods but also breakfast, lunch, dinner, and craft cocktails. Over two years later, the Learys are making their vision reality: Kona Craft Kitchen + Bar opened in early March at 6757 Longshore St. in Dublin’s Bridge Park. Though both Frank and Stacy are veterans of the restaurant scene, this is their first venture together as co-owners. “We’ve always had this dream of building something really special,” Frank said. Like its name suggests, the Kona Craft Kitchen + Bar experience starts with a great cup of coffee. Coffee from the Kona belt—a strip of land about 30 miles long and two to three miles wide—is unlike coffee anywhere else, Frank said. The volcanic soil there gives the beans a unique flavor, with notes of chocolate and macadamia nuts. →

WE’VE ALWAYS HAD THIS DREAM OF BUILDING SOMETHING

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↓ Stacy and Frank Leary, Co-owners of Kona Craft Kitchen + Bar

↑ Nova lox everything bagel

Photo Courtesy of Illumination Studio

↑ Fresh made sticky buns

Photo Courtesy of Illumination Studio

Like the coffee shop they loved in Hawaii, the Learys will feature baked goods at their eatery. Two pastry chefs are responsible for producing fresh pastries in a vibrant rainbow of colors. Breakfast will feature decadent staples such as house-made sausage and chorizo, candied bacon, pancakes, and French toast. The menu will also offer healthier items such as chia pudding, fresh yogurt berry bowls, and quinoa and egg power bowls. The scratch kitchen will create dishes Frank described as New American cuisine. The dinner menu leans heavily into seafood territory, with the majority of it sourced from Kona’s neighbor, Coast to Local Seafood. There will also be more traditional American fare, including smash burgers and salads.

↑ Stocked bar ready to create cocktails

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In addition to using Kona coffee, the Learys offer other, more subtle nods to the energy they found during their Hawaiian vacation, from fresh fruits to their Island Salad featuring Maui onions, which Frank said is a cousin of the sweet vidalia variety. “You can literally eat it like an apple,” he said. The Learys put as much thought into their craft cocktail menu as they did into planning their cuisine. All their bitters are house made—one is even sourced from smoking Kona coffee beans. Drinks will feature ice made with the directional freezing method; Stacy said the method produces cubes that melt slowly to keep cocktails cold without watering them down. According to Frank Leary, Bridge Park was missing a spot that can offer a gourmet

meal for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and they didn’t want to be a brunch-only-onthe-weekends kind of spot, either. “We want to be a Monday through Friday restaurant, too,” he said. “We thought there wasn’t enough of that in Bridge Park.” The restaurant’s space will have an ambiance that evolves over the course of a day, moving from bright and cheerful in the morning to soothing in the afternoon and into the evening. “There’s so much to look at and see,” Stacy said. The interior features a cafe area, a pastry line, and a bar area, as well as a 36-seat private dining room. A fire element creates a communal gathering spot in the restaurant’s center: Sixteen bar stools surround a granite table topped with a pyramid of stone featuring an open-flame, ethanol burner. Stacy said the couple’s design team listened to every detail to bring her vision to life. “They just took it and ran with it,” she said. “It makes you want to cry happy tears.” ♦ To learn more, visit konacraftkitchen.com

↓ Interior of Kona Craft Kitchen + Bar

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How two Columbus cousins with Louisiana roots launched an authentic, indulgent eatery dedicated to beignets By Sarah Sole / Photos by Maddie Schroeder Story Design by Willem Kern

Way Down Yonder's specialty beignets ↓

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You might have had beignets before, but we’re willing to bet you likely haven’t had them the way Yonder Miller makes them. Yes, you can have the square-shaped, soft and fluffy pastries sprinkled with powdered sugar. But you can also have them decked out with a variety of hot toppings in flavors such as strawberry crunch, bananas foster, pecan praline, and fried stuffed Oreo. Way Down Yonder Beignets & Coffee officially opened its doors on Feb. 15 at 386 E. Main St. in the Discovery District, following months of anticipation. Headed by Miller and her cousin, Rickelle Viney, the space is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The new eatery features an indoor dining area brimming with Big Easy flair— including Mardi Gras beads, and even a full-wall mural of New Orleans street musicians—in addition to an outdoor patio and a drive-thru window. →

Owners, Rickelle Viney and Yonder Miller ↓

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From 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., the eatery also offers a southern breakfast with your choice of sausage or bacon served with grits, plus toast or a traditional beignet. Veggie quiche is also available. The main event, though, is the beignet—paired with a steaming cup of coffee. The warm dessert with hot coffee, Yonder said, is “just the perfect combination”. Miller knew her beignets could stand as a business all their own after they became the most popular dessert she offered at her mother’s restaurant, Way Down Yonder New Orleans Finest Restaurant, at 3847 S. High St. “People were asking for them,” said Miller, who for years also baked out of her home. According to Viney, her beignets are not only out-of-this-world good, they’re also bonafide authentic.

“Growing up in New Orleans, Yonder is familiar with the evolution of beignets: How they’re made now and how they used to be made,” she said. “She’s making true, original beignets. She really believes in her recipe and craft because she’s tailored it over all these years.” And after decades of perfecting her craft, it was in January of 2021 that Miller knew she wanted to start a business specifically dedicated to the popular regional pastries. “It’s a tedious process, and you need the space to do it,” Miller said. She reached out to Viney, her cousin, for her business expertise, and soon decided she wanted the pair of them to launch the venture together. “I needed someone who was on the same page as me,” Miller said. Viney, who was at that time also thinking through several major life decisions, decided to pray on it.

↑ Interior of Way Down Yonder Beignets & Coffee

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→

“Once I did that, I decided to accept,” Viney said. The cousins share three things: Their age, their birth month (October), and a New Orleans heritage. Miller and her mother, Yonder Gordon, had lived there prior to moving to Columbus, while Viney—born in Columbus—had lived in Louisiana as a child. Beignets, Viney said, remind her of the city’s unique culture, and food, she experienced while living in Lousiana. “It’s something that you really can’t describe,” she said. While Miller focused on baked goods and helping her mother out with the Way Down Yonder restaurant, Viney worked in retail design and retail architecture before deciding to partner with her cousin. “We’ve just been working ever since,” she said. Part of that work has been ensuring that young people get the development opportunities the cousins said weren’t there for them in their own youths. Viney and Miller are hiring culinary students to work alongside them as cooks and managers. Their goal: to provide students with leadership experience and opportunities to work on their craft with weekly chef specials, all while serving up some of the best Beignets outside of New Orleans. “We’re just ecstatic about seeing these young people come in,” Viney said. “They’re so excited.” To learn more, visit wdybeignets.com

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From vertical farms to farm-to-table restaurants, we get to the roots of garden-fresh Columbus cuisine Story Design by Emma Quinn

Strap on those overalls, because we’re bringing the farm to you. Our cover section for the Spring 2022 issue of Stock & Barrel is fresh. Literally. And since spring is the season of new growth, we’ve decided to take a closer look at Columbus food. Not in terms of flavors or dining trends, but where it comes from, and how we can be more involved in that process. Because the closer you look, the more interesting things get. The Columbus area is home to all sorts of unique farms, some high-tech–growing up instead of out to maximize acreage–and some old school, like the delightfully rugged Wooly Pig Farm Brewery that features some of the state’s best lagers, in addition to some of the world’s only long-haired pigs. This section also includes stories on great local farm-to-table eateries, plus an important story on how you can start growing your very own food and produce, from the ground-up. And take my word for it, if these tips helped me grow my own food, they can help anyone. Let’s get growing, Columbus! → 614NOW.COM

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James Hu, looks upon the crops ↑

Greenery from the farming ↑

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The vertical system with plants growing ↑

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James Hu ↓

Sprouts growing ↓

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Wooly Pig Farm Brewery offers some of the best beer in Ohio on a heritage farm setting with— you guessed it—longhaired pigs By Jim Fischer Photos by Sarah Pfeifer

Throughout the decade or so when Kevin Ely was brewmaster at Uinta Brewing in Utah, he often traveled to Germany for conferences and trade shows. He learned that renting a bike and cycling through the Bavarian countryside was a great way to learn about local traditions. He subsequently learned that local traditions included farm breweries – lots of them – serving a roughly 20 square kilometer area, in addition to something much stranger: Mangalitsa Pigs. “I wasn’t sure what I was looking at, so I took a bunch of pictures and just started asking around,” Ely said.

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Bar at Wooly Pig Farm Brewery ↑

Shelters for the wooly pigs ↑

About the pigs, that is, which, unlike most breeds, are covered in a coarse, sometimes curly fur. As for the beer, it was made most often by locals for locals, with variations on different traditional, German beer-making themes. “They were usually family operations, with a deep sense of community,” Ely said. A few years ago, Ely and his wife Jael Malenke, were presented with an opportunity to purchase a long-standing family farm near his wife’s childhood home in Coshocton County, Ohio. They decided to take it and, with the help of Jael’s brother and his wife, Aaron and Lauren Malenke, recreate some of that same sense of community around their own farm brewery. They wanted to recreate the wooly pigs as well. And so, Wooly Pig Farm Brewery was born, on a former land-grant farm that previously had been in the same family since the mid-1860s in Coshocton County, Ohio, not far from the original Malenke family homestead, where Jael and Aaron’s parents still live.

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Wooly pigs themselves ↑

Growlers to bring home their beer with you ↑

Now, let’s get the pig business out of the way – yes, there are Mangalitsas on the farm, anywhere from 25-50 over the five years or so since the MalenkeEly crew moved in. “We know they’re huge ambassadors for us,” Jael Malenke said of the pigs, whose meat is especially desirable in making prosciutto and other pork often found in charcuterie. “People want to see them, take pictures of them. It’s definitely a unique feature of the brewery.” 46

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The pigs also help dispose of grain and other materials left over after the brewing process (and even customers’ pumpkins in the days and weeks following Halloween), in keeping with the sustainable ethic employed by Wooly Pig. “The pigs allow us to operate the way we do,” Ely said. So no hard feelings, pigs, but can we talk about the German-style lagers that Ely masterfully brews now?

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Variety of taps at the brewery ↑

Moving to Ohio and opening Wooly Pig offered Ely complete control of the brewing process, and he put his training (he’s a biochemistry/brewing science graduate of the University of California-Davis, one of, if not the, first brewing science programs in the country) and experience at Uinta to use on rich, full-bodied German-style brews – Helles, Dunkel, Schwarzbier and Pilsner, for example. Wooly Pig’s beers are lagered and unfiltered, giving them a unique character, and, while Ely doesn’t ignore hops in his brewing, there’s not an IPA to be found in the brewery’s tap list. “I didn’t think it was a risk,” Ely said. “These beers have great appeal to a variety of drinkers, from craft beer fans to anyone who just wants a golden, beer-flavored beer.” In the end, Ely said, “I make beers that I want to drink.” Ely considers Wooly Pig a “process” brewery. While he does employ local added ingredients – pawpaws grown on the property, local elderberries, Amish maple syrup – it’s the way he combines and processes core ingredients, grains, water and yeast, that give Wooly Pig’s beers their variety and flavor. Combine those tastes with the brewery’s natural beer garden appeal – who knew having a brewery at a farm, where there’s plenty of outdoor space, would prove exceedingly valuable during a global pandemic? – and Wooly Pig offers a genuine Bavarian experience in rural Ohio. It’s a recipe that’s worked. The customer base skews local – Wooly Pig is the only brewery in Coshocton County – but includes regional travelers from Cleveland, Pittsburgh and Columbus, among others. “We’re family-friendly, dogfriendly and community-friendly on purpose,” Yael Malenke said. “It’s been very gratifying.” ♦ To learn more, visit woolypigfarmbrewery.com

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Ben Rowley digs in soil ↓

Tips from local farmers and gardeners to help you master the spring growing season By Jack McLaughlin Photos by Sarah Pfeifer

No matter where you are in Columbus, if you have access to a yard, or even some soil, chances are you can grow your own produce. We sat down with a trio of local growers–Kate Hodges from Linden’s Foraged & Sown and Cori and Ben Rowley from Yellowood Farm & Supply in Canal Winchester–to get the best advice on how, where and what to grow this spring. All three of these now-professional growers started–like many of us are now–without much knowledge, and in their own urban backyards. So whether you want to cultivate a massive field of crops to feed your family, or you just want a small, tidy herb garden for the fun of it, here’s how to grow your own! →

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Cori and Ben Rowley from Yellowood Farm & Supply ↓

Sure, we all want the biggest garden packed to the brim with different fruits and vegetables. If you’re a new grower, though, it might be best to not overextend yourself, and stick to just a few plants to get the hang of them. “Start small, start with a small plant or two,” Cori Rowley said. “When you get it right, and you will, you’ll grow your confidence and be ready to take on more, and not the other way around.” If you’re planting this spring, consider opting for hardier vegetables that can tolerate the cold, like lettuce and salads. “If you find a salad mix of seeds, arugula is really great to grow here because it, and lettuce and spinach and kale, all appreciate cold weather, and we have a lot of that in Ohio,” Rowley said.

Where’s the best spot in your yard to actually start your garden? We’re glad you asked. As you may already know, sunlight exposure is critical. First, if you’re growing at home in Ohio, you’ll want to make sure your plants are facing south (this gives plants in the northern

hemisphere the most sunlight exposure possible). You’ll also want to orient your garden rows from north to south. If you spread them east to west, your plants will often cast shadows on themselves, inhibiting exposure times. According to Hodges, you’ll also want to identify the more well-drained parts of your yard. “Some people might not realize, but Ohio is basically a temperate rainforest. There’s lots of trees, precipitation and moisture.” And what, exactly, is the best way to figure this out? “People will be able to tell by walking in their yard, preferably barefoot,” she said. “A lot of times in urban locations, like where I’ve lived in Linden Clintonville, it will feel like a sponge under your feet; like a slip and slide. That’s what you want to avoid.”

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Ben Rowley using his repurposed window↓

Tools to help you become a better grower are all around, and you might not even realize it. In the fall—or even in the spring if you’ve put off tending to your yard like many of us—leaves are your best friend. According to Hodges, you can pile a mound of old leaves in a bag, and this will eventually create nutrient-rich mulch. Even spreading old leaves on the soil in a garden bed can help give your soil a boost once they break down. Ben Rowley noted an old window lying around your house can even be repurposed into a cold frame to help grow plants that require warmer weather, and a milk jug can even be repurposed into a terrarium. And if you have some old peppers or tomatoes from the grocery store or a previous harvest, don’t just toss them, save the seeds to plant your own!

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You learn one way in gardening and growing: by failing. So don’t be afraid of it. “Be ready to accept failure; it happens to every grower, at every scale.” said Hodges. “A lot of things are out of your control, you can’t plan for everything.” According to Cori Rowley, this shouldn’t be a roadblock, but instead a way to liberate yourself to try growing what you want, even if things don’t work out or you’ve missed the ideal window for a certain crop. “People are always racing to get their seeds to the soil, and while it’s great to know what you’re doing, I think it can be really stress inducing, worrying about it too much,” she said. “Food has been grown for a long time without help or a ton of scientific knowledge. If you put a lot of different plants in the ground as late as May, there’s a good chance some are still going to grow.” ♦ 614NOW.COM

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Alqueria Farmhouse Kitchen ↑

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Four scrumptious Columbus options for true farm-to-table dining

By Melissa Braithwaite Photos by Sarah Pfeifer

Certified organic. Locally sourced. Humanely raised. If you’ve dined in Columbus recently, you’re likely familiar with those terms. Thankfully, we live in a state with more than 77,000 farms. Bring on that fresh food! With a recent national increase in farmer’s markets of 370 percent, the farm-to-table trend is here to stay. Here’s a look at our favorite local restaurants serving up seasonal, fresh eats sourced locally.

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UNIVERSITY DISTRICT

Alqueria Farmhouse Kitchen ↑

Alqueria is a locavore's dream. The chef/owners Jacob Hough and Patrick Marker are all about showcasing the best ingredients that Central Ohio has to offer. With a glorious array of cured meats and cheese to start from, including smoked duck breast and Zoe’s Ghost Chili Pepper salami that can be paired with Spanish sheep- or goatmilk cheese or Moody Blue Wisconsin blue cheese. For an entree, try the vegetarian Ohio City Butternut Squash Ravioli or the classic meaty Farm House Burger–you won’t be disappointed.

SCHUMAKER PLACE

Alqueria Farmhouse Kitchen ↑

Alqueria Farmhouse Kitchen ↓

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We just love Skillet’s philosophy – and its food – which is probably why it's been a mainstay in the Columbus farm-to-table restaurant movement since 2009. Skillet’s menu is completely driven by the season and the current harvest with the philosophy of “always ingredient driven with complex flavors, but never complicated.” The restaurant offers generous portions of healthy food that doesn’t leave you feeling guilty. Try their brunch; the scratch-made sausage and biscuits will have you coming back for more.

Pizza from Harvest Pizzeria ↓

Photo Courtesy of Leonardo Carrizo

CLINTONVILLE, BEXLEY, DUBLIN, BREWERY DISTRICT

Harvest opened a small German Village restaurant, and once the word spread, so did business. Now, with four Central Ohio restaurants, Harvest is a staple of the Central Ohio farm-totable food scene. Its pizzas comprise a delicious collection of ingredients from local farmers and small businesses. The results are some of the most unusual and delicious pizzas around. Try the Ohio Double Bacon, the Spicy Yuma or the Geary Street for an experience that is far from run-of-the-mill. Although they are known for their pizzas, the small plates, salads and cocktails are worthy of their own praise.

POWELL

This farm-to-table Italian concept by owner/chef Matthew Phelan offers a modern, fresh take on traditional Italian dishes, such as eggplant and chicken parmesan, as well as handcrafted fresh pasta dishes. All pasta can be substituted for gluten-free pasta, with the exception of ravioli, and there are plenty of vegetarian options. Try the Pork Cheek Ravioli with the Novella Salata for a meal you will be thinking about long afterward.

Pasta from Novella Osteria ↑

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Why this wildly-popular Creole restaurant closed for more than two years, and how owner Justin Boehme brought it back from the dead By Sarah Sole Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Bryce Patterson

It was overwork that made Justin Boehme realize he needed to take a break from his Cajun and Creole concept Da Levee. Since opening in 2010, the concept had become quite the success, but Boehme was, in his words, killing himself, working seven days a week up to 20 hours per day. “I had to take a step back and realize what I was doing to myself,” the Indianapolis native said. Boehme pivoted in 2018, trying his hand at other business ventures. But Da Levee’s fans weren’t ready to let go of their beloved eatery. Boehme cited that support as the reason he opted to, after not operating for more than two years, ultimately bring back Da Levee, which reopened in mid-January of this year, and at its original location at 765 N. High St. →

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& Magic Bread

↑ Ca

jun d ish

from D aLevee

↑ Ja mbal aya

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↓ DaLevee Founder, Justin Boehme

“It wouldn’t be here without the love,” he said. Boehme’s passion for Cajun food began in 2003. Fresh out of the U.S. Army, he moved back to Indianapolis and began working in the kitchen for Yats, the Cajun food concept that would eventually grow to include a Grandview location. Boehme was no stranger to food service—he had been a kitchen manager at Bob Evans in high school. In less than a month, he became general manager at Yats. When the concept began expanding, Boehme wanted to expand with them. But owner Joe Vuskovich, who had become a mentor to Boehme, advised him to strike out on his own. Setting his sights on Chicago, Boehme started planning his own Cajun eatery. But when an investor pulled out, he had to find an affordable option. Headed to Columbus for the tattoo convention Hell City, Boehme fell in love with the area. He opened the Da Levee in 2010. For the first three months, Boehme lived in the restaurant, sleeping in the back on an air mattress and showering in the mop sink until he was able to afford a proper apartment.

DaLevee it wouldn’t be here returns the without love Justin Boehme, Owner ↑

↓ DaLevee's space at Short Supply

Interior of the restaurant ↑

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The spot became a neighborhood staple right off the bat. And the concept expanded. Boehme opened a spot in Gahanna in 2018, using it as a location to cook food for both restaurants. Working with corporate food company Aramark, he also served over 1,000 meals daily at corporate offices across Columbus for Nationwide, Chase, and OhioHealth. But with everything together, It had all became too much. “I had to take a step back,” he said. The year 2018 was when everything changed. Boehme sold his Gahanna location to Mexican restaurant Mi Tradicion. He turned his Short North spot into a bar called Eugene’s Canteen and

↓ Extras available at DaLevee

Goods for sale at Short Supply ↑

ended up subleasing the location in late 2019 after that concept didn’t fly. Boehme had been busying himself helping with the development of the CBD sparkling beverage business W*nder. But when the sublease of his Short North spot fell through this past June, Boehme had to quickly come up with a solution for the space. Short Supply—part convenience store, part bar—was a concept Boehme developed in just seven days. But now that he was back in Da Levee’s original space, everyone started asking about the restaurant. “It became overwhelming,” Boehme said. So he gave in, and mid-January, he reanimated Da Levee as a delivery and takeout kitchen. He plans to offer hot food at the bar. Though Boehme remains dedicated to a Cajun and Creole concept, he hasn’t decided whether or the Short North is the best long-term home for the restaurant. He’s begun shopping around for possible locations. Where he ends up, he said, just depends on what he finds—he could be next door, he could be in Westerville, he could be in Chicago. Even though his future is open-ended, Boehme is certain he’ll be cooking and serving up meals until he retires. “I’m meant to make people happy with my food,” he said. ♦

To learn more, visit www.dalevee.com

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Athens, Ohio Craft beer and artisan eats abound in this southern Ohio hotspot By Jack McLaughlin / Story Design by Emma Quinn

With the temperature rising and days getting longer, it’s time we all got out for a bit. We could use a road trip. We’re not talking about a bonafide vacation, but instead a getaway. Even a day trip will do. So buckle your seatbelts, kids, because we’re heading to Athens, Ohio. A stone’s throw from the beautiful Hocking Hills, Athens is home to the idyllic Ohio University, in addition to a quaint, historic downtown that’s jampacked with food and drink options enough to make any epicurean’s mouth water.

If it’s breakfast you’re after, you can’t go wrong grabbing something caffeinated or a housebaked treat from Donkey Coffee and Espresso or Fluff Bakery. Leaning toward the savory side? Check out downtown’s Bagel Street Deli for a bagel or breakfast sandwich, as the longstanding spot is loaded with equal amounts of character and flavor.

Donkey Coffee and Espresso ↓

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Athens, Ohio ↓

Zoë's plated dish ↓

For lunch, O’Betty’s Red Hot is absolutely can’t-miss. The small storefront is positively overflowing with quirky-cool interior decor, and its creative dogs recall those featured at Columbus’ own Dirty Frank’s Hot Dog Palace.

And would you look at that? It’s already time for dinner. Zoë Fine Dining is a New American eatery that’s been serving Athens for nearly 20 years, focusing on upscale takes on salmon, steak, lobster and more in a sleek, ultrapolished dining room. Keeping it casual? Avalanche and GoodFella’s are two of the city’s top-tier pizza spots. →

Right across State Street from O’Betty’s is Casa Nueva if Mexican fare is on your mind. Restaurant Salaam, located just a short walk down Congress Street, operating out of a beautifully decorated space rife with plants in bloom and ornamental rugs, is another fantastic option if you’re looking for something lighter that’s still sure to satisfy.

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Jackie O's location on Union ↓

If you need something to wash all that down, check out craft beer hotspot Jackie O’s Pub & Brewery. Now a national name, their worldclass brews (you have to try Mystic Mama and Dark Apparition) and huge variety are sure to please everyone in your party. While not located downtown itself, Little Fish Brewing is also a must-stop for any self respecting craft beer fan. Grab a crisp lager for now, and for a special occasion, pick up a bottle of an expertly-made and delicatelyaged sour beer like Maker of Things or Natural 20. Lucky for you, both breweries also offer great food options if you’re looking for drinks with your dinner.

Little Fish's dinner served with beer ↓

And if you have any room at all left over, swing by Larry’s Dog House on your way out of town for some unpretentious, but totally delicious, soft serve and sundaes.

time to hit 66

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? the road!

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