← Tom Parr, inside of his oversized trap sculpture
TaKorea owner Kevin Kim embraces his Korean roots—and a childhood love for Mexican fare— in new Clintonville kitchen By Bella Czajkowski / Photos by Aaron Massey Story Design by Emma Quinn
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t’s 32 feet long, 9 feet high, and weighs around 4,000 pounds. And while the Guinness Book of World Records hasn’t officially named it the World’s Largest Trap, it is undoubtedly the biggest one you will ever see. Tom Parr, owner and curator of the Trap History Museum in Galloway, has over 4,000 traps in his collection, but the towering steel structure sitting outside is what captures people’s attention first. Don't worry: It’s not functional, so snapping a selfie from the jaws is perfectly safe. “A gentleman in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan made it, and then brought it to the fairgrounds during our yearly National Trappers Association meeting in 2008,” shared Parr. “It was on display at the entrance, but no one realized it was for sale. He put a price tag on it on the last day, and when my friend let me know about it, I ended up buying it.” It arrived at his museum on a flatbed truck and has been the signature attraction ever since. But there’s far more to see once you venture inside Parr’s museum, including over 4,000 animal traps, memorabilia, trapping tools, baits, and an entire library, along with a man who has spent most of his life studying the history of the fur trade and Winter 2023 loves sharing his knowledge with others. →
After a decade working in the restaurant business, Kevin Kim has reached a critical moment in his career, with not one, but two ventures as owner/operator. →
"I SAW THE NEED IN MY COMMUNITY TO CELEBRATE AUTHENTIC, GENUINE MOMENTS..."
To see more Vulgar Vegan creations, follow @vulgarveganbakery
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Coming soon in Gahanna, Ohio to serve you the complex depth of South Indian food flavors.
1307 Stoneridge Dr., Gahanna OH 43230
Travel Northeast Ohio Wine Trails WINE & CHOCOLATE TRAIL Feb.16-18 & 23-25, 2024 WINE N BLOOM TRAIL Apr. 26-28 & May 3-5, 2024
Celebrate at Ohio Wine Festivals VINTAGE OHIO SOUTH May 4, 2024-Springfield, Ohio VINTAGE OHIO WINE FESTIVAL August 2-3, 2024-Kirtland Ohio OHIO WINE PRODUCERS ASSOCIATION Call 440.466.4417 or visit OhioWines.org for more information
CONTENTS 22
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COVER SECTION From Somalia to central Europe, the Columbus food scene represents an ever-expanding patchwork of people, cultures and flavors. We want to celebrate this, and encourage others to explore it. With features on Columbus restaurants (and the people behind them) from an array of cultures and backgrounds, we're ready to present you with the Columbus Foodie Passport.
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TAKE OUT AND STAY IN
AT THE TOP
From Kung Pao to General Tso, here’s your guide to Chinese-American takeout in Columbus.
Finding the line between approachability and taste, The Top has been anchoring the City's East Side for nearly 70 years.
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MEET IN THE MIDDLE
SNACK ATTACK!
Si Señor Peruvian Sandwiches launches a new location in the Arena District.
From fiery noodles to Nepalese snack mix, we review spicy treats from around the world.
COVER PHOTO BY TYLER JAMISON
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From the Editor PUBLISHER Wayne T. Lewis CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Lindsay Press EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jack McLaughlin
JACK MCL AUGHLIN Editor-In-Chief
Everybody Eats I absolutely despise when people watch me eat. You know the feeling – when, without even looking up, you can feel the heat of someone’s gaze creeping up your sandwich and right onto your face. And don’t even get me started on the kind of person who comments on your food choices while you’re eating. I’ve been this way since I was a kid. While this might say more about me than anyone else, it does always help me remember just how weird and vulnerable the act of eating anything in front of other human beings can be. I also remember one of the first lessons I learned in an intermediate creative writing workshop in college, during our unit on short fiction, which was about the importance of dining scenes. In movies, TV shows, novels, and whatever other creative mediums the kids are consuming these days, food scenes are ubiquitous, and very much necessary. Since there’s a lot more action and interest in a freeway car chase or alien abduction scene, what’s the point of wasting precious screen time on two people shoving pizza into their faces? Ultimately, they’re a window into the dynamic between two people, into the status of their relationships, and who they are. Sharing food together is something that’s, weirdly enough, a pretty personal experience. There’s no TV to dissipate the friction, no radio to focus on instead of the person right in front of you.
Think back to your family holidays and birthday parties (except that one where your friend got sick on the roller coaster simulator at Disney Quest) – some of the most important social gatherings of the year happen around the table. All of this is to say that eating is a powerful part of who we are and how we socialize, and in a city like Columbus with a diverse cultural fabric, there are restaurants from around the globe at the tips of our fingers. And all of these offer a window into our cultures, into other people that we simply wouldn’t be privy to otherwise. These eateries afford much more than just good food – they provide a brief but important communion, a common ground for understanding, even, and one that goes both ways. With more than 45,000 Somali individuals in Columbus and some of the best Somali food in the Midwest, with top-tier restaurants from countries throughout the Asian continent located conveniently on the city’s Northwest side, and just enough of an Eastern European influence to offer some of the best pierogies you’ve ever had, and plenty more, Columbus is a confluence of cultures, of flavors and of people. This is what we want to explore alongside you in the winter issue of Stock & Barrel. While we’re not claiming we’ll whisk you away on a magical tour of all the world’s cuisines — in fact, it would be impossible to even accurately summarize all the cultures showcased in the Columbus food scene alone — our Winter issue of Stock & Barrel wants to take on a tour of some our fine city’s finest options. And to meet some of its finest people alongside the way. Because as much as we are what we eat, whom we eat with is just as reflective.
ASSISTANT EDITOR Sav McKee CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Jen Brown, Leonardo Carrizo, Tyler Jamison Sarah Pfeifer, Heidi Oliver, Aaron Massey, Jordy Middlebrooks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jack McLaughlin, Sav McKee, Matt Mahoney,
Melinda Green, Laura Hennigan, Chris Alexis, Molly Hammond, Maddie Schamer, Dylan Ecker CREATIVE DESIGNERS Bryce Patterson Tori Smith Atlas Biro VIDEO PRODUCER / EDITOR Austin Black DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Justynne Pride SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Julia Attanasio MARKETING ASSISTANT Zoe King ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Meggin Weimerskirch SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Mindy Wilhite Paul VanHorn ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Anna Gerhard BRAND MANAGER, 614 LAGER Lizzy Saunders EVENTS COORDINATOR Lizzy Saunders
Questions about advertising? Scan here!
Created by
(614) Magazine 458 E Main St., Columbus, OH 43215 Office: (614) 488-4400 | Fax: (614) 488-4402 Email submissions to: editor@614now.com www.614now.com ©Copyright 2023 by Lewis & Clark Media LLC. Reproduction of any content, in whole or in part, without written consent of publisher is strictly prohibited. Stock & Barrel Magazine is not responsible for return of unsolicited materials, manuscripts, or photographs. "Stock & Barrel" is a registered Trademark of Lewis & Clark Media, LLC
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CALENDAR Nothing quite warms our souls in the dead of winter like eating great food and drinking some hearty beers and strong cocktails. From weekly international food tours and culinary cooking classes, to cocktails by cozy fires on rooftops and a huge beerfest, here are some fun ways to beat those winter blues: Photo courtesy of Lumin Sky Bar’s Instagram
Columbus Winter Rooftop Bar Crawl January 13th, 7pm-12am | $10 per ticket Presented by: Discover Columbus
Columbus Winter Beerfest January 20th, 12pm-4:30pm; 6:30-11pm | $25-$110 Presented by: Columbus Beerfest
Chinese New Year Participatory Dinner Party February 9th, 6pm-10pm | Learn how to make 5 courses for $90/person | Presented by: The Kitchen
Alternative Eats International Food Tour Every Friday, 6pm-9pm | 5 international food stops for $76/person | Presented by: Columbus Food Adventures 614NOW.COM
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STAFF PICKS B y S to c k & B a r re l sta f f
This winter, we’re taking a tour of the culinary world without leaving central Ohio. Since we’re celebrating the plethora of cultures and flavors blending together here in Columbus, we asked our staff: If you could eat cuisine from only one region for the rest of your life, what would it be?
“I’m staying home (sort of) and going with Creole and Cajun. Crawfish po’ boys, andouille sausage anything, and beignets. I think Voodoo Chips count, too.”
Jack McLaughlin Editor
“Italian—pizza, pasta, bread!”
Meggin Weimerskirch Advertising Director
“Japanese. Hands down. Every day. There’s so much diversity in cuisine.”
“Mediterranean for me. Seafood and veggies for dayyysss.”
Austin Black
Atlas Biro
“Mediterranean, for sure! Falafel, hummus, lentil stew, tabbouleh....need I say more?”
“Would have to be Mexican for me! Can't go wrong with homemade tamales and chicken enchiladas.”
Sav McKee
Zoe King
Videographer
Assistant Editor
Creative Designer
Marketing Assistant
PRODUCTS WE'RE LOVING
↑ Black Cap Hot Sauce, With all the Sriracha supply issues over the last few years, why not look toward a local hot sauce as a fridge mainstay instead? Former Watershed Kitchen & Bar executive chef Jack Moore’s Black Cap Hot Sauce is fermented, unpasteurized, and opts for flavor (with red Fresno chilies, garlic, sea salt, ginger and lime zest) instead of pure heat.
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↑ Roosevelt Craft Beer Soap, Huckstle, The local soap and self-care product company Huckstle is combining clean and cool this winter. Known for their soaps made with a variety of Columbus-area craft beers, one of their newest offerings creates a soap with Roosevelt, a coffee stout made by Olentangy River Brewing Co. that’s tailor-made for colder weather.
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↑ Martini Beanie, Dame Studio, Columbus maker Maddie Herbert, operator of Dame Studio, is making a name for herself with a long line of quirky and comical clothing and more. Her line of martini beanies makes a perfect gift for the espresso martini love, even–or maybe even especially– if that person is you.
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SS PLA Y
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614 VIDEO Did you know that (614) has a YouTube channel with some very shareable video content, including delicious food stories from Stock & Barrel? It’s true. We've expanded our ever-growing content to include video across our web and magazine stories. Keep an eye out for more on our (614) Columbus account and on social media. In the meantime, scan the QR code to check out the newest videos on our channel:
• Have You Tried A CoronaRita?
El Vaquero is many things and a flavor innovator is one of them! Always inventing new cocktails and dishes, you need to add their CoronaRita to your list of must tries!
• Snack Attack 4 (Global Edition)!
What better way to warm up this winter than with a whole host of spicy food from around the globe? From fiery noodles to Nepalese snack mix, we review spicy treats from around the world.
• Hispanic Heritage Fueled by La Plaza Tapatia
La Plaza Tapatia is Ohio's Largest Hispanic Market. Head inside to their Grab and Go market for authentic, prepared fresh food so you can sit back, relax and enjoy la fiesta! Watch now:
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#EAT614 THE BRUNCH BUFFET IS BACK
It’s difficult for us here at Stock & Barrel to catch it all. That’s where you come in: while you’re out there capturing the city, you might as well slide some of your best shots our way. Use the hashtag #Eat614 on twitter or instagram to put your photos on our radar.
Buffet and Bloody Mary Bar available Sundays from 10 AM - 3 PM
@koble_greek_italian
@borgatabudd
@junkyarddogsoh
@americannutcompany
@twoonewesterville
NEW HOURS Monday - Thursday: 11 AM - 10 PM Friday - Saturday: 11 AM - 11 PM Sunday: 10 AM - 9 PM
MTMTAVERN.COM DUBLIN 12
POLARIS
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EXPLORE PUBLIC ART IN COLUMBUS @libbylousfunfactory
@speck_italian
@tensuke_market
@takowing.eats
@daylight.donut
@101beerkitchencbus
@ryeriversocial
Columbus Makes Art is a project of:
Download the ARTWALKS app.
Find a map of public art in Cbus at ColumbusMakesArt.com @rishi.sushi
@hangry.hungry
The Story of Global Gallery by Anthony Pomales 614NOW.COM
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HOLIDAY cocktail CONTEST Columbus has spoken, and here’s who came out on top at (614)’s Holiday Cocktail Contest By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Sarah Pfeifer Story Design by Tori Smith
Esome of the city’s best and brightest bartenders from ach year, our Holiday Cocktail Contest brings together
some of its top bars and restaurants, including the likes of Hiraeth, High Bank Distillery, Antiques on High, plus 18 others. Presented by Beam Suntory and held at a packed Le Méridien Columbus, The Joseph, the event saw more than 250 people in attendance, and 21 different must-try holiday cocktails.
At Columbus Museum of Art
NEW! Happy Hour Tuesday–Friday, 3:00–5:00 PM $3, $5, $10 light bites, drinks and more
Here’s a list of this year’s winners:
FIRST PLACE Veritas - Tokyo Lemon Sour
RUNNER-UP Soul at the Joseph - Maple Bacon Donut
BEST TABLE DECOR Lindey’s - Abuelita’s Horchata
MOST SUSTAINABLE Alibi - Vaccinium Lady
FAN FAVORITE Harvest - Midnight Express Luckily for all of us at home, this isn’t an overly-complex recipe (sometimes, simplicity shines), and if you want to try your hand at mixing up a Tokyo Lemon Sour for yourself, we’ve included the recipe from Veritas and their bartender, Alisha Kaplan, below:
TOKYO LEMON SOUR 2oz Roku gin
•
1oz Koji lemon cordial
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Top with soda
480 E. Broad St. Columbus, OH 43215
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
(614) PIZZA TRAIL
EAST MARKET
212 KELTON AVE / (614)725-5482
FRANKLINTON
415 W. RICH ST. / (614) 372-5983
www.yellowbrickpizza.com
EASTON
4205 WEAVERTON LN.
WORTHINGTON
SHORT NORTH TAVERN
674 N HIGH ST, COLUMBUS, OH 43215 ( 380 ) 210-0197
@pieofthetigerofficial
BEXLEY
2376 E. MAIN ST
BREWERY DISTRICT
940 S. FRONT ST
CLINTONVILLE
7227 N. HIGH ST.
2285 N. HIGH ST
www.piesandpints.net
45 N. HIGH ST
DUBLIN
wwwharvestpizzeria.com
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
(614) PIZZA TRAIL
7 CENTRAL OHIO LOCATIONS www.latenightslice.com
15 CENTRAL OHIO LOCATIONS www.masseyspizza.com
By Jack McLaughlin / Photos by Sarah Pfeifer / Story Design by Atlas Biro
A collection of dark(er) local beers that eschew hoppiness for heartiness, and are perfect for getting cozy in the winter weather
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ot today, IPA. See you later, saison. Bye-bye, blonde ale. With the temperatures falling and winter planting its flag in central Ohio, we decided to take a look at a handful of local beers on the darker side that feel custombrewed for the cold weather. Sweet, malt-forward, and sometimes overlooked in favor of flashier options, dark beers are being churned out in Columbus with just as much aplomb as IPAs and award-winning sour beer. So let the cold in just a little. Put another log on the fire, and embrace the dark side for a few. You’ve earned it.
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American Brown Ale Yellow Springs Brewery 2855 Indianola Ave. The new kid in town is not messing around. Yellow Springs Brewery–the Dayton-area beer makers best known for their beloved IPA, Boat Show–opened their first Columbus taproom in late 2023, meaning beers like this top-tier brown ale will become available even more regularly in Columbus. While IPA typically steals the show with its hoppy fireworks and citrus fragrances, this brown features the malt sweetness that typically defines the style, with just enough American hops to make things more interesting. And while many dark beers can clock in at eye-poppingly heavy ABVs, at 5.5 percent, Handsome is light-bodied and surprisingly easy-drinking.
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Oak-aged Winter Lager Wolf’s Ridge Brewing 215 N. 4th St. Two of the most underrated trends in beer–making lagers and wood-aging beers that aren’t enormous stouts–combine in this seasonal showcase from Wolf’s Ridge. The base beer in this limited release, the brewery’s dark lager Midwestern Goodbye, is aged in white oak foeders to take on a unique, earthy flavor and complexity. At only 6 percent ABV, it goes down smoothly, as well. This beer is only available in Wolf’s Ridge Advent Calendar 12-pack, but if you’re looking for something a bit more widely available from them–that’s still on the dark side, of course–check out Home for the Holidays, Wolf’s Ridge’s annual winter spiced ale.
English-style Holiday Ale Jackie O's on Fourth 171 N. 4th St. While we considered plugging in the iconic Dark Apparition imperial stout here, we’ll go a little more mellow this winter. While mellow is an accurate description of this seasonal Jackie O’s release in one sense–the beer hovers just above 5.5% ABV and won’t detonate a hop-bomb on your tongue–it doesn’t capture the subtle sweetness and rich malt character that make this beer perfect for a cold night in Columbus.
American Stout Parsons North Brewing Co. 685 Parsons Ave. At first, you might think “American Stout” is a bit uninspired as a name for an American Stout, but in this case, it hits the bullseye. This annual offering from Parsons North, which clocks in at 6.5 percent ABV, is a perfectly-executed representation of the style, without frills or funny adjuncts. And it definitely doesn’t need them. Rich and chocolatey notes are counterbalanced by a coffee-like roastiness from the malts, plus a touch of American hops that all comes together in a beer that’s a whole lot smoother than you probably thought a stout could be.
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American Strong Ale Seventh Son Brewing Co. 1101 N. 4th St. If it ain’t broke. Or something, you know how the rest of it goes. In choosing our final beer for the list, we could have tried to reinvent and go with something off the wall and wild, but when one of Seventh Son’s core beers fits the bill perfectly, there’s no reason to. Another beer named after the style it represents, American Strong Ale is just that, strong–but like a lumberjack holding a puppy–it’s also perfectly sweet. A complex malt bill is the driving force behind this Columbus classic, and did we mention it pours one of the most beautiful shades of ruby we’ve ever seen in a beer? True to its name, this one clocks in at 7.7 percent ABV, so it’s a sipper, for sure.
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Take Out
and Stay In From Kung Pao to General Tso, here’s your guide to Chinese-American takeout in Columbus By Sav McKee / Photos by Sarah Pfeifer / Story Design by Atlas Biro
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y double date was coming to an end, and frankly, I just wanted to be home in my sweatpants, in front of the TV, with some chopsticks in my hand. “Let’s grab some Chinese takeout from Hunan King and just call it a night?” I proposed, eager for some comfort food in the comfort of my home. My friend’s eyes widened. His jaw dropped. Both he and his wife leaned forward, not just because I was so blatantly ditching our date night for my dogs and a movie instead, but because apparently, I found a culinary unicorn. “Woah,” he gasped, gently setting his cocktail down. “Hold up. You have a Chinese take-out spot? Like a reliable, go-to place? We’ve been searching for one for years.” →
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In a city that seemed to have everything and anything, it took five years of living in Columbus, a lot of regrettable Beef & Broccoli experiences, and some questionable Kung Pao Shrimp to finally find and narrow down what I would consider the city’s best, quintessential Chinese-American take-out experiences. Now, I’m not talking about the traditional sit-down joints, with silverware instead of plastic forks, chairs instead of booths, and plastic-protected menus. Although there’s a time and place for those, there’s already a plethora of those in Columbus that aren’t-so-secret. In fact, most of them are wonderful and usually always excellent, and therefore, easy to find. No, I’m referring to the covert Chinese-American takeout spots hidden mostly in Columbus strip malls; unassuming, sometimes eerie places on the outside, with a neon sign hanging in the window, shaped into a bowl of noodles and the words, “CHINESE FOOD.” Step inside, and you’ll likely encounter a fish tank, faux greenery, and a silence only broken by the sizzling wok. The menu exists in paper form at the walk-up counter, but also on a dimly lit, faded board that hasn’t been updated since 1984. And it doesn’t need to be, really – loyal customers don’t care what the place looks like for a variety of reasons: we’re
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probably going to take the food to-go anyways, and, when the food is this good, it doesn’t matter if the interior is outdated. It’s actually all part of the charm, if you let it be. These clandestine spots are elusive; for every 10 take-out attempts, you might find only one that crafts crispy, not soggy, crab rangoon, with the perfect ratio of filling that isn’t too fishy; one that has spring rolls served with a tangy sauce that isn’t too sweet; one that strikes the perfect veggie-to-noodle ratio in their vegetable Lo Mein, and serves a thick, almost gooey, and not too garlicky sauce on their General Tso’s tofu dish (which by the way, has to be crispy on the outside, yet spongey on the inside). The Szechuan also has to have more spice in the sauce than sugar – it should tickle your throat a little. Oh, and most of these items have to be packaged in a takeout box with a silver handle, and red writing that says “Enjoy” or “Thank You” in order for me to keep coming back. You know exactly the box I’m talking about. When there’s plastic and styrofoam all over your counter or coffee table, it looks messy. Wasteful, even, but those iconic take-out boxes somehow ooze romance; evoke nostalgia and anticipation; remind us to relax; they can make some of us feel like we’re living in a rom-com, ordering food with our friends after a night out together. →
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I’m going to take (out?) a moment to thank Chinese immigrants for evoking all of these feelings and memories that come packaged in a little white and red box. While many dishes at these take-out institutions are made by those with Chinese heritage, much of it has been Americanized, on purpose, actually. The sweet and sour chicken you crave every weekend was tailor-made specifically for American palates. In fact, broccoli and fortune cookies are not even considered traditional Chinese foods. Even when targeting an American audience, it took a lot of time for the culinary offerings of the Chinese diaspora to be accepted here. Today, it’s essential – crucial, really – to try traditional, authentic delicacies and staples from other countries, and to learn the origins of some of our favorite foods. But…when it’s a cold Friday night in the dead of winter, I happen to want sugar in my Americanized version of Chinese food, and I order extra broccoli. I look forward to unwrapping a fortune cookie, cracking it open, and adding “in bed” (a family tradition) to whatever’s printed on the small paper. Here are the 11 spots I turn to first. ↓
Columbus' Must-Try Chinese Takeout Hunan King
Ko Sheng
Eastern Wok
Mr. Wok Restaurant
Beijing Restaurant
Panda Wok
Peking Wok
Family Garden
Wong’s Golden Wok
Golden House
2048 Lockbourne Rd., Columbus, OH Must-try: General Tso’s with any choice of protein, Crab Rangoon, Lo Mein
3877 S. High St., Columbus, OH Must-try: Egg Rolls, Fried Rice, Sesame Chicken
9862 Brewster Ln., Powell, OH Must-try: Mongolian Beef, Crab Rangoon, Kung Pao Chicken
1537 W. Broad St., Columbus, OH Must try: Potstickers, Singapore Mei Fun, House Special Pad Thai, Szechuan Tofu
2133 Eakin Rd., Columbus, OH Must-try: any Noodle dish, Orange Chicken, Wonton Soup
Joy to Go
3674 E. Main St., Columbus, OH Must-try: Pork Lo Mein, Sesame Chicken, Egg Rolls
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3350 Cleveland Ave., Columbus, OH Must try: Moo Shoo Pork, Chicken Teriyaki on-a-stick, Sesame Chicken
931 E. Johnstown Rd., Gahanna, OH Must try: Chow Mein, Shrimp Yaki Udon, Ma Po
1390 Cherry Bottom Rd., Gahanna, OH Must-try: Sweet & Sour Chicken, Potstickers, MoShu Chicken
5829 Emporium Square, Columbus, OH Must try: Beef & Broccoli, Bourbon Chicken, Shrimp Fried Rice, Orange Chicken
3518 Cleveland Ave., Columbus, OH Must try: Hot and Sour Soup, Spicy Chicken Wings, Lo Mein, Triple Delight
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↓ Martini and tablescape at The Top Steakhouse
At the
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Finding the line between approachability and taste, The Top has been anchoring the City's East Side for nearly 70 years By Melinda Green Photos by Heidi Oliver Story Design by Tori Smith
Happy Hour Monday-Friday • 3pm-6pm $4 off Growlers $3 off Draft Beer $2 off Wine, Mead, Sangria $1 off Liquor
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↓ Bar at The Top Steakhouse
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S
ince 1955, The Top Steak House has been a staple of top-tier East Side dining. For some, it’s a tried-and-true standby; for others, it’s a brand-new discovery. “It's a classic,” co-owner Emily Schoedinger said. “People like the feeling of coming in and, whether it be neighbors or friends, everyone's visiting and chatting and talking and there to not just have dinner, but enjoy their evening. We're one of the last of the supper clubs in the United States. There's just not that many left, you know, kind of a dying breed.” Restaurateur Bill Sapp, who also owned such beloved local eateries as The Kahiki and The Wine Cellar, opened The Top in 1955. This is the last remaining of his restaurants. Sapp sold the restaurant to Steve Yoder in the late 1990s, and the current owners—Emily, her husband Matt Schoedinger, her mother, and her stepfather—took over in 2006. Emily, a Bexley native, grew up with dinners at The Top. When the restaurant went up for sale, she and her family decided it would be the right move to purchase it and ensure it stayed open for the long run. As it turned out, all four of the owners brought complimentary business and hospitality experience to the table, and The Top has continued to thrive. Inside, not much has changed in its nearly seven decades of existence. The awning stripes and wood wall paneling, the jovial conversations around the bar, the dim, warm lighting, the capiz-shell light fixtures and Mid-century abstract wall art, the easylistening music, all feel like a step back into a different era—only now, instead of Mad Men-era suits and cocktail dresses, you might see C-suite parents in business casual, with teenagers in tow. Not that suits and cocktail dresses would be out of place. This is definitely a spot where you can dress for the occasion, even if the occasion is just “Vintage Dress-Up Night.” About the only thing that’s changed, really, is the addition of a four-season patio that nearly doubles the size of the restaurant – a bright, airy contrast to the cozy, dark interior. Even the menu has stood the test of time: a bacon-wrapped filet with black truffle butter, fluffy baked potatoes with thick, salted skin, and a cocktail list that would make 1950s America proud. “It's just the classics of a steakhouse,” Emily said. “We have stuck to tried and true. I'm not saying that we don't try different things here and there—you know, people weren't really doing crab cakes back then.” →
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↓ Dinner at The Top Steakhouse
“We don't have the ham and cheese sandwich that was on there in the 1950s anymore, but all the cuts of the meat are [there],” Matt continued. Then there are the famous big, crispy-breaded onion rings that also top each steak. “We've been serving onion rings at The Top since the day we opened,” Emily said. Of course, this begs the question: What about the vegetarians among us? “Basically, we don't have a lot of options as far as vegetarians go,” Emily admitted. On the menu, there’s onion rings, potatoes, side salad— no “vegetarian option” on this list of classics. Nor is anything labeled “gluten free.” However, The Top is willing to accommodate vegetarians and other dietary needs after advance notice, encouraging those guests to call at least 24 hours ahead to request a suitable option. And what’s an old-school supper club without a piano? The Top still features live pianists seven nights a week. Sometimes, one of the regulars might even grab the microphone and sing along. The atmosphere is classy, yet convivial.
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When the Schoedingers’ family bought the restaurant, the clientele was mostly older. But it’s shifted since then. “We were from Bexley growing up, [and] that was the first line of people at that time,” Emily recalled. “I was 30 or whatever, so my friends were coming in. And then I have five sisters, so their friends were coming in, and our clientele slowly but surely became all different age groups and not just the people that have been coming there since 1955.” “So it definitely gave us a little bit of, I don't know, a resurgence I guess,” continued Emily, “and popularity, and it started becoming a fun place to come and hang out in the evenings.” Now, you’ll see everything from people who have been coming since 1955 to 20-somethings who “just love the kitsch of the whole place,” as Emily put it. “That’s kind of the cool part. People hear about it, and they want to come see it and experience it for themselves, you know, that time capsule.”
Matt agreed. “We have a vastly different demographic,” he said. “And it’s always amazing to me when we hear the story of, ‘I didn't even know you guys were here.’ I'm like, ‘Well, we're one of the oldest restaurants in Columbus, but OK.’” “There's a lot of people that move here and they're like, ‘Oh my gosh, this is great.’ And then you’ve got the people that are classic, you know, they come once a year for their anniversary,” explained Matt. The Top isn’t going anywhere any time soon, and that’s a good thing. “Everyone has a story, it seems like, of their grandparents or their parents or themselves growing up, coming to The Top,” Emily said. “And we're just trying to protect it for everyone, you know, for other people's children and grandchildren to enjoy this little time capsule.”
To learn more, visit thetopsteakhouse.com
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↓ Various sandwiches from Si Señor Peruvian Sandwiches
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After launching a new Arena District location, Si Señor Peruvian Sandwiches finds its footing between new flavors and familiarity, and between two slices of bread By Matt Mahoney / Photos by Leonardo Carrizo Story Design by Atlas Biro
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his past November marked an important opening in the Columbus culinary scene, with the arrival of a second location for one of the city's most prestigious sandwich institutions. The Arena District is now home to a new location of Si Señor Peruvian Sandwiches, in the former Zoup! location at 155 W. Nationwide Blvd. Most Columbus sandwich enthusiasts are familiar with the spot by now, but for the uninitiated, allow me to set the scene. We start with Guillermo Perez, the founder and mastermind behind Si Señor. In a conversation with (614) Magazine, Perez spoke about his background, and how it led him into the culinary world. A native Peruvian, he arrived in the United States and initially found work in the culinary sector. “I (have) always been working in restaurants around the city,” he said. When return trips to the homeland sparked a curiosity within his mind, he began to experiment with different combinations of flavors, incorporating his learned restaurant knowledge with old recipes from home. The result, as luck would have it, turned out to be delicious.
"The sandwich shop is my wife's idea, mostly." As is oftentimes the case, however, there is a wise woman behind the man behind the counter: Perez’s partner and wife, Chistell Gozzer. “The sandwich shop is my wife’s idea, mostly,” Perez recalled, noting that until he met Gozzer, the idea of launching his own eatery didn’t feel like a possibility. But with her business acumen and his culinary chops, the first Si Señor Peruvian Sandwiches opened downtown on Lynn Street in 2010. The concept proved to be a success, allowing the two to expand operations into other areas of the city, including their popular Grandview location. →
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↑ Guillermo Perez, owner of Si Señor Peruvian Sandwiches
"People know us in the area already, and it feels right getting...back into the Arena District.. We're ready." Like virtually every other restaurant owner in Columbus, the concept was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic; but where many other institutions were forced to cease operations entirely, the plucky Peruvian endured. In the absence of any other reasonable explanation, one has to assume that it was the food that allowed them to do so. Those sandwiches are no joke, I’m telling you. After scaling back operations to a single location over the course of the pandemic, Perez and his partners are now aiming for something of a return to form with their newest location. The concept operated a Downtown location years ago, but the new space, according to Perez, is one that feels custom-built for the area. In the middle of the bustling Arena District, the space boasts an abbreviated menu that’s built around the idea of speedy, fast-casual lunch service, catering to the myriad of busy professionals looking for a (really good) bite to eat at lunch, but often without a whole lot of time to spare.
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“This type of concept is intended for a central area, and we’re excited to bring it there,” he said. The consolidated menu features a selection of six different sandwiches, including community favorites like the Chicharron and Criollo Fish. The classic drink and chip accompaniments are present as well, but if you want my advice, you’d be better served sitting down with your sandwich and a side of the everpopular Cilantro Cream Pasta Salad. And while a fast-casual spin on Peruvian sandwiches in the Arena District feels like a layup for Perez and his team today, the beginnings of the concept — selling an unfamiliar Peruvian cuisine to a city in the Midwest — were a bit more unsteady. Opening up a restaurant that specializes in cuisine that some might label as “exotic” or even “foreign” comes with its own set of problems. Namely, how do you go about introducing a potentially wary audience to food that they might not otherwise go near? You do so by offering it alongside (or in this case, inside of) a familiar presentation method: the sandwich.
But this is more difficult than it sounds – the flavors have to be familiar enough that the less adventurous palates out there can still find something to enjoy, and yet by their very nature, restaurants offering exotic cuisine will not succeed without a bit of adventure. “Today, our name is Si Señor Peruvian Sandwiches. But when we first opened, I left out the Peruvian part. We were afraid people wouldn’t know what to make of it; that they might not like it,” he said. “After a while, customers started asking me why I wasn’t just calling it a Peruvian restaurant. That was actually part of what they liked about it.” For those who are otherwise unfamiliar with Peruvian cuisine, you might be surprised to learn that it boasts its fair share of Asian influence. You might be just as surprised to hear that Si Señor goes through a substantial amount of soy sauce on a weekly basis, as the condiment plays an important role in the prep kitchen. One of the eatery’s signature offerings, the Chicharron, is at its core a pork sandwich, but when augmented with Salsa Criolla – essentially pickled onions – and sweet potato mayo, the ordinary becomes extraordinary. “It’s strange how things work,” Perez recalled. “This was one of the more Peruvian sandwiches, and I was afraid it wasn’t going to sell at first.” There’s a dearth of locales in the Columbus area that occupy a similar culinary niche, allowing Perez and company to give back to the community in their own unique way, and with a brand new space to boot. “People know us in the area already, and it feels right getting back into this area again, back into the Arena District,” Perez said. “We’re ready.” ♦ View the menu, order online, and more at sisenor-columbus.com
↓ From right: Perez and business partner Carlos Zarate.
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rom Somalia to central Europe, the Columbus food scene represents an ever-expanding patchwork of people, cultures and flavors. We want to celebrate this, and encourage others to explore it. With features on Columbus restaurants (and the people behind them) from an array of cultures and backgrounds, we're ready to present you with the Columbus Foodie Passport. Section Design by Bryce Patterson
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Ty Ginger Asian Bistro 5689 Woerner Temple Rd. (Dublin)
Color, flavor and texture collide in our roundup of the whimsical world of Columbus dim sum
Considered by many to be the gold standard of Columbus dim sum, a glance at Ty Ginger’s offerings should confirm this. With a small image of each dish available, potential diners are able to scroll through (both in person and online) what amounts to a massive catalog of dining options. And according to the eatery, this isn’t just part of the fun, it’s integral to the experience of dim sum itself. You can check out more of Ty Ginger’s dim sum offerings on the cover of this issue.
By Jack McLaughlin
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f – like me – you find yourself wracked with indecision over even the most trivial choices (should I get mint chocolate chip or pistachio ice cream? Am I wearing my socks covered in cartoon bears or yellow polka dots today?), dim sum might just be your new favorite food. In fact, the beauty of dim sum comes in large part from its variation, and each order – a trio of dumplings or a pair of sesame balls – are deliberately undersized for a single person, so a full meal will almost always consist of multiple orders. This means you not only are gifted with the ability to simply not make the difficult decisions of what to not order, but you also get a chance to revel in the veritable medley of colors, textures and shapes that is dim sum. While dim sum spots may not be abundant here in central Ohio like they are in New York or Seattle, the Arch City has some fantastic options of its own, if you know where to look. We've rounded up some of our top options for you to dig into – with your mouth and eyes alike.
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Sunflower Chinese Restaurant 7370 Sawmill Rd.
Rich red walls adorned with golden dragons and intricate characters greet visitors to Sunflower Chinese Restaurant on the city’s Northwest Side, creating an immersive atmosphere as the backdrop to some of the best Cantonese offerings in Columbus. Sunflower Chinese offers dim sum at lunch daily.
Helen’s Asian Kitchen 1070 E. Dublin Granville Rd.
Steamed pork buns, fried sesame balls, and sticky rice in lotus leaf are just some of the dim sum offerings available at Helen’s Asian Kitchen on the North Side of Columbus. Dim sum is available daily at Helen’s, but it It doesn’t stop there, either, as the eatery also serves up a wide variety of other options, including pad thai, lo mein, Cantonese rice noodles, and more.
Sunrise Asian Supermarket 1920 W. Henderson Rd.
The name of this spot might give away the fact that it isn’t the most traditional spot you’ll grab dim sum from, but don’t let that stop you. Located on the city’s Northwest Side, Sunrise Asian Supermarket offers a variety of its own house-made dim sum dishes. While you won’t find the same number of dishes here that you will at some of the other eateries on our list, Sunrise makes a variety of classic dim sum offerings, and some pretty great dumplings, if we do say so ourselves.
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← Hoyo's co-owner Mohamed Hassan
From the North Market to New Albany, Hoyo’s Kitchen is bringing Somali culture and cuisine to the forefront in central Ohio By Chris Alexis Photos by Aaron Massey
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oyo's Kitchen, a Somali restaurant with mutliple locations peppered across Central Ohio, invites everyone throughout the Capital City to step into an atmosphere of comfort and culinary delight. The eatery was the brainchild of Abdilahi Hassan and his mother, Hayat. “My mom always enjoyed cooking and making lavish meals for the family,” said Mohamed Hassan, Abdilahi’s brother and co-owner. The term "Hoyo" is a Somali word that translates to "mom." “The concept of a Hoyo's Kitchen is that we want people to feel like they're going back to their mom's kitchen—that feeling of warmth and familiarity you get when you're in your mom's kitchen when she's cooking up a meal,” said Mohamed. The original location, situated on 161, opened its doors in late November 2014. Despite facing challenges common to the restaurant industry, the business flourished, generating positive reviews from satisfied diners and securing a loyal customer base.
“The concept of a Hoyo's Kitchen is that we want people to feel like they're going back to their mom's kitchen—that feeling of warmth and familiarity you get when you're in your mom's kitchen when she's cooking up a meal.” However, the pandemic forced the Hassan family to create some operational adjustments, leading to the temporary closure of the original location. Currently, plans are underway to reopen it in the first quarter of 2024. In 2019, Hoyo's Kitchen expanded to the North Market downtown. Despite the pandemic shutting the doors of countless businesses, this location remained operational. “Glory to God, the market is such an integral part of Columbus, as you know,” Mohamed Hassan said. “The market got an exemption from closing because it's considered a grocery. So, we actually were allowed to continue to operate.” →
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↓ Hoyo's North Market Location
Hoyo's Kitchen is not just for the Somali community, but aims to introduce Somali cuisine to a broader audience, he explained. The restaurant has since expanded to additional locations, including North Market Dublin and New Albany's Bubbly Market. The menu at Hoyo's Kitchen features traditional Somali dishes, with a focus on goat (which Hassan said tastes just like lamb) and basmati rice, both considered staples in Somali cuisine. Diners can expect an “explosion of flavors” that include Indian, Persian, Italian, and African influences. Customers first choose the type of meal they want (a wrap, salad, or bowl), then choose a base (spicy rice or basmati rice), pick their proteins and hot vegetables plus unlimited cold vegetable options, and then finish off with a housemade sauce. You can add injera on the side, or what they’re really known for – their sambusa, which is kind of like a Somali samosa. The fresh squeezed mango juice balances out even the spiciest of sauces, too. “We're pretty popular for our mango chicken; it's like a little sweet and spicy dish, mango infused chicken,” he said. “We also do beef. We don't leave anybody out and have veggie options as well for our vegan eaters.” He also highlighted the healthy portions guests receive. “They're always a little shocked by how much food they’re getting,” he said. One distinctive aspect of Somali dining at Hoyo's Kitchen is the inclusion of bananas as a side, adding a touch of Somali tradition to the experience. Hassan also highlighted the importance of customer service, aiming to make every visitor feel comfortable and welcome, nurturing a sense of community akin to being in a mother's kitchen.
“Diners can expect an ‘explosion of flavors’ that include Indian, Persian, Italian, and African influences.” 44
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↓ A bowl being prepared at Hoyo's
The goal is to make Somali cuisine just as ubiquitous in American culture as Italian, Indian, Chinese, and Thai food. And a city like Columbus–which boasts the second largest Somali population in the United States, according to Somaliohio.org– seems as good a place to start as any. “Food bridges the divide between people,” he said. “That's what we're trying to do, one bowl at a time. I know I sound like a romantic.” Hassan’s dream is growing closer to reality. The popular Hoyo’s Kitchen was nominated for a James Beard award, a prestigious honor in the culinary world, and achieved an important distinction from Yelp: a total of 13 Ohio restaurants made the organization’s Top 100 Midwest Restaurants list, and Hoyo’s kitchen was the highest-rated among them, coming in at number 7 overall. If you’re curious to give Somali cuisine a whirl, their four locations are as follows: 59 Spruce St. Columbus, OH, 43215 (North Market Downtown) 6750 Longshore St. Dublin, Ohio, 43017 (North Market Bridge Park)
OHIO MADE, TEXAS STYLE.
6065 Central College Rd. New Albany, OH, 43054 (Bubbly Hall) 5788 Columbus Square, Columbus, OH, 43231 (closed for renovations)
To learn more and view their menu, check out their website, hoyoskitchen.com.
Taste The Slow-Smoked Southern Goodness: hankstexasstylebbq.com 2941 N. High St. Columbus, OH 43202 hankstexasbbqclintonville 614NOW.COM
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Columbus restaurant veteran Tarek Albast comes to Italian Village in a chic new concept that juggles present and past, and wears its heart on its sleeve Written by Maddie Schamer Photos by Jordy Middlebrooks
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t all started in his mother’s kitchen. A young Tarek Albast, executive chef and owner of Habibi Grill, watched and learned by his mother’s side as she shared with him the recipes that would someday make up the menu of his restaurant. With passion, authenticity, and family ties at its core, Habibi Grill has brought a fresh, refined take on Lebanese and Mediterranean fusion to Columbus’ Italian Village.
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loc ally brewed, globally r e co g n ize d, available statew i de
Habibi Grill opened its doors on August 19th and has been making waves ever since. Located at 1131 N. Fourth Street, the restaurant quickly became a viral success and has garnered huge support from Columbus locals. With a unique self-serve setup, cultural décor, and incredible cuisine, it’s no surprise that the restaurant has gained a huge following in such a short time. Albast’s passion for cooking, sparked by his mother, continues to inspire him every day in the kitchen. He fondly recalls moments spent beside his mother, absorbing the intricate nuances of her recipes. "As a kid, I was always sitting next to her while she was cooking and helped her with whatever I could," Albast reminisced, “the grape leaves, spicing the meat… anything I could help with, I did.” Her inspiration has driven his career as a chef and led to his creation of Habibi Grill. "The entire menu is made up of her recipes." These early experiences in the family kitchen ignited his culinary aspirations, ultimately leading him to pursue a career as an executive chef and restaurateur. Habibi Grill is truly a culmination of Albast’s culinary success as well as a nod to his Lebanese roots, offering patrons an elevated yet comforting dining experience. He said, “I have learned that everyone can cook, but it makes a huge difference when you cook with love and passion.” Each dish is a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, allowing years of devotion, experience, and soul to shine through. What really sets Habibi Grill apart is a strong commitment to freshness and authenticity, using only the highest quality produce and meats possible, which are brought in fresh every morning. Everything is prepared from scratch and according to traditional techniques, with countless hours put into every single plate. →
The Great American Beer Festival trademark, world beer cup trademark, and all related marks are owned by The Brewers Association, INC. and are used with permission | brewed in columbus, oh | wolfsridgebrewing.com
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↓ Habibi Grill Offerings
↓ Interior of Habibi Grill
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↑ Owner and Chef Terek Albast
Every detail, down to their hummus and house made sauces, is crafted scrupulously by hand. Albast believes the true mark of success for a dish is found in the quality that comes from time and care. The lamb shank is one of the many shining stars on the menu. Albast personally oversees the meticulous preparation of the meat, slow cooking it for 7-8 hours each day to juicy perfection. The restaurant utilizes all parts of the lamb in different dishes throughout the menu, allowing each ingredient to shine in its most exquisite form. While meat plays a prominent role on the menu, Albast emphasized that vegetarians, vegans, and those with dietary preferences are not overlooked. “Part of the reason we have a larger menu is because I wanted there to be something for everyone. Whether you’re vegetarian, vegan, gluten free… there’s something for everybody here,” he explained. Presenting Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine in its highest form was Albast’s vision with the restaurant, and he went above and beyond in doing so. Beyond the flavors and inviting ambiance, Habibi Grill is a testament to the power of cooking with love and passion. Every dish tells a story, echoing the heritage and traditions that have been passed down through generations. As patrons savor the culinary delights of Habibi Grill, they become part of a narrative that began in a mother’s kitchen and continues to unfold with every dish. ♦
To learn more, follow @habibigrill614 on Instagram, or check out their website, habibigrill614.com.
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↓ Belle's Bread pastries
Tucked away in the Kenny Centre Mall, Belle’s Bread combines Japanese bakery practices with French influence, and gains national recognition in the process Written by Chris Alexis Photos by Jen Brown
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eople don't often think of pairing Japanese and French cuisine, but the fusion is noteworthy. Anyone living in Central Ohio would be wise to experience these riches in the form of Belle's Bread. The French-inspired Japanese Bakery was founded by Takashi Takenaka, who arrived in the United States from Japan in 1972. Fast-forward to 1987, he opened Restaurant Japan, which is now known as Akai Hana. Takenaka opened five additional businesses over three decades in the same shopping center, now known as Japan Marketplace. His sixth was Belle's Bread in 2011, where his French wife, Francoise, and their daughter, Mika Lecklider, helped run the show. In just over a decade, the unassuming bakery tucked away in the Kenny Centre Mall has gained national recognition from foodies and pastry aficionados, cracking a handful of “best-of” lists, including being named one of the country’s best hidden gems, and one the top 100 bakeries by Food & Wine. "Much like the rest of the world, Japan has recognized France as the pastry capital of the world," Lecklider, who manages Belle's, said. "Over the past century, many Japanese bakers have professionally studied in France and come back to Japan with this newfound knowledge of French baking techniques. The Japanese have since made many uniquely Japanese desserts that are based on French baking methods." When customers step into Belle's, they will quickly understand the Japanese focus on customer service. "Our cashiers are warm and friendly, similar to what you would experience in Japan," Lecklider said, adding that they also use two hands when taking and returning payment, which is uniquely Japanese. Customers will also discover Japanese translations on many product signs. The family behind Belle's hopes to fuel an appreciation of Japanese food within the Central Ohio community. "Being a part of Japan Marketplace also helps to create a unique Japanese shopping experience, where you can see many different aspects of Japanese culture," she said, adding that people will witness willow and bonsai trees in the courtyard area, bringing an essence of Japan into Ohio. The multicultural family's contributions connect well with one another, mirroring the perfect integration at the cuisine level. "My father is the brains behind Japan Marketplace and has the vision for its future," she said. My French mother, who is also the company accountant, has always been a good source of feedback for my dad. She is not afraid to express her opinions and he very much values what she has to say since she has the best intentions for the company at heart. She comes from a business family and has a good viewpoint on many things." →
FIND YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD GOAT D OWNTOWN C B U S (R IVE R S O UTH) | N EW ALBANY | GAHAN NA | H I LLIAR D | D U B LI N
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↑ Belle's Bread strawberry cake
↓ Belle's Bread offerings
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↑ Belle's Bread Manager Mina Lecklider
As a manager, Lecklider is also extremely collaborative with her parents to keep the business thriving. With such a tight-knit family, one might think "Belle" was one of its members. But that isn't the case. "Because of the French influences in Japanese baking, my father always knew he wanted to name the bakery after a French name," Lecklider said. "Many bakeries in Japan are also given French names. He came up with the name himself simply because he liked the sound of it." And yet there was an injection of inspiration from the family when it came to the restaurant's brand. "When we were in the concept stages of our logo with the designer, one of the office staff members brought in a blown-up picture of my face as inspiration for the designer," Lecklider said. "I of course cringed at the sight of my picture, but I guess it made sense at the time since I am half-French and half-Japanese." Belle's Bread distinguishes itself through specific culinary techniques: The dough laminating process, assisted by sheeters, produces consistently flaky pastry dough for delicious croissants and danishes. Incorporating Japanese practices, especially using imported cake flour from Japan, results in a light, airy, and moist cake sponge. Noteworthy specialties include the best-selling strawberry cake—known for its light texture and balanced sweetness—popular croissants, and red bean-filled breads featuring high-quality red bean paste from Hokkaido, Japan, which is less sweet compared to competitors. Despite the culinary marriage between Japanese and French cuisine, Lecklider said Belle's is primarily a Japanese bakery. "I believe that there is an appreciation for Japanese food throughout the world so we have a very diverse clientele," she said. "Most of the world is accustomed to lightly sweet desserts which makes our bakery attractive to people from other countries." Customers stepping into the bakery may notice some changes: redesigns are underway to bring seating back, which was removed during the pandemic. But as the world has returned to normal, Belle's is following suit and growing their sense of community. "We are excited to bring it up-to-date and include seating again," she said. ♦
To learn more, visit bellesbread.com
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Surviving first a pandemic and then a kitchen fire, Columbus’ Hungarian butcher continues to lean on owner Dan Varga's heritage, and his family’s recipes By Molly Hammond Photos by Sarah Pfeifer
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ettled in the charming village of Granville, Ohio lives a unique culinary gem that’s focused on heritage, sustainability, and community. Dan Varga, owner and butcher from which the business got its name, dreamt of opening a shop that celebrates his culinary craft and family’s Hungarian heritage. The heart and soul of the Hungarian Butcher, lie in the cherished recipes of Varga's grandmother, Anya. From take-and-bake cabbage rolls to smoked and fresh sausages, her influence is evident in the shop's offerings. "Paprika is key to Hungarian dishes!" Varga added. Varga's Hungarian heritage is a driving force behind his business. As a first-generation son born in the United States, he grew up learning cooking techniques and how to make old-world dishes from his family. "Their recipes are ingrained in my brain. From being a chef for 25+ years, I have a knack for perfecting their recipes at a gourmet level," he said. The shop’s offerings are diverse, with a focus on—you guessed it—paprika-infused dishes. Regulars’ favorites include the Sakura Wagyu Tri-Tip, Pastrami, RL Valley Rib Eye, Cabbage Rolls and Hungarian Sausage. “People mostly come in for our pastrami, carne asada and rotating pâtés,” Varga explained. Another pillar of Varga’s concept is the idea of sustainability. The company is proud to offer high-end beef, poultry, lamb and pork, all sourced from local Ohio farmers. But the real magic lies in their terrines, smoked and fresh sausages, pickles, and exquisite dry-cured products for charcuterie. All of these are made in-house, with a distinct Eastern European flair that pays homage to Varga's Hungarian roots. →
From the minds behind Gahanna Grill:
Star Kitchen Cafe The perfect fusion of restaurant & cafe
Taste for yourself!
Open Monday through Sunday, 7am-8pm 1471 High St., Columbus OH 43207 starkitchencafe.com | 614-525-0573 614NOW.COM
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↓ Hungarian butcher grocery wares
“Everyone eats! We partner with farmers and other local businesses to ensure we always have products to make the quality items we carry,” explained Varga. “It’s important to provide delicious food so people come back” — and that’s just what they do.” The Hungarian Butcher receives all its meat products from farms near Columbus, including RL Valley Ranch, Sakura Farms, Woodruff Farms, Linder Farms, and Anderson Farms. The shop also partners with local businesses for their accouterments, including Black Cap Hot Sauce, Sabauce Marinade, Prospect Jam Company, North Market Spice Company, and much more.
“Everyone eats! We partner with farmers and other local businesses to ensure we always have products to make the quality items we carry.” For Varga and his team, the Columbus community is everything. "Through a fire tragedy this past year, we realized how amazing our city really is. We not only received a lot of love through fundraising and generosity, but we've been able to return the love since our reopening through donations and community involvement," Varga said. “I tried to leave once and came back. The support of friends, family, colleagues and community means a lot to me and my staff," he shared. ♦ To learn more, follow along on Facebook or Instagram at @ hungarianbutcher.
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↓ Hungarian butcher owner Dan Varga
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↓ Carne Asada Sopes and a Chicken Adobo Taco
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Meet Casa Karmelitas, the new Mexican street-food inspired pop-up making moves in Columbus By Sav McKee Photos courtesy of Layla Al-Shaer
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t’s a Sunday afternoon, and you're heading to the street market to grab your favorite tacos from the vendor at your go-to food stand. She’s only there once a week – this is your only chance to grab a handmade empanada and a bowl of pozole for seven whole days, which is unbearably too long, from the woman who handmakes the masa tortillas right in front of you and serves the best esquites you’ve ever had. This might sound like a made-up scenario, or some Mexico City daydream, but it doesn’t have to be. You don’t need to jet off to experience something like the situation above anymore (although I highly recommend doing so, too!). Right here in Columbus, a new(ish) popup is flipping the script on the traditional, brick & mortar and food truck scene, providing us with an authentic taste of Mexico City in an incredibly unique way. “We’re not creating anything new, but we’re providing a different experience for people here in Columbus,” said Karma Masri, co-owner of Casa Karmelitas. Casa Karmelitas serves home-made tacos, pozole, and street corn to the Columbus community almost every Sunday. Notably, they make their dishes right in front of the customers, usually on a grill at their outdoor vending station or on a portable set-up while popping up around breweries and shops around town, staying true to the owners’ Mexican roots. The owners aim to recreate and encompass the immersive experience of buying and eating Mexican street food, but right here in Columbus. They provide us with an authentic example of what it means to truly engage with our meals – to watch the preparation, to take in the aromas, and most importantly, to see who is cooking your food, and the art behind it. →
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Karma, originally from Mexico City, grew up savoring street food at every corner. “I’ve been passionate about the restaurant industry ever since,” she said. “My business partner, Angie Martinez, also grew up in Mexico, and most of our food came from the street…the easiest thing for us to eat was street food from vendors. It’s part of my culture. There are no food trucks – you watch the people make the food right in front of you at their vendor spot. You talk to the person, you watch how they make it, you take in all the smells – you’re fully immersed in the experience.” While most entrepreneurs in the restaurant industry dream of a brick & mortar or food truck, Karma is all behind the food vendor experience, and right now, she prefers it. “You approach the food vendor, the scene, really, and you’re immersed in all 5 senses – you first hear the cooking, then you smell it, then you see it, then touch it, and finally, you eat it. This is someone’s very personal cooking. You’re seeing the passion that goes into the food we’re selling,” Karma emphasized. When you encounter a Casa Karmelitas pop-up, it's like you're almost transported out of Columbus, Ohio. With hand-crafted masa tortillas grilled to order, meats stewing, and sauces simmering, this no-frills setup is, “as close to Mexico City as you could get,” reminded Karma. There’s no truck or kitchen to hide behind. You’re exposed to Karma and Angie’s passion up close and intimately. Although some may lament that they can only enjoy these exceptional tacos on Sundays or at special popups, Karma said this is intentional. “It’s typical in Mexico City to see pop-ups that are only one day a week – someone will only come to the markets on Saturdays or Sundays and sell their food on one specific day,” she explained. “This approach builds anticipation. People come every week and wait in line just to order from their favorite vendor.” Casa Karmelitas offers proteins packed full of flavor stuffed into gluten-free tortillas, accompanied by refried beans, fresh herbs, and pickled onions on top. Vegan options are also available, such as the potato, poblano, and grilled onion taco. Don’t forget to try the pozole, which is a hearty, broth-based, traditional Mexican soup, and also their classic Mexican street-corn (esquites) served with traditional Mexican herbs and onions, tossed with mayo, cheese, and chili, all in a cup. Wash it all down with a bottle of Jarritos.
casa karmeli ↑ Angelica Martinez cooking up some potato chorizo at a local pop-up
↑ Diana hand-making tortillas at a local pop-up
↑ Happy customers at Casa Karmelitas' Sunday pop-ups at Lookout Supply
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↓ Diana cooking cilantro tortillas at an event at Seventh Son Brewing Co.
itas Although Karma loves and misses her home in Mexico City, after being in Columbus for the past 13 years, she’s developed an affinity for Ohio’s Capital City, too, and we’re fortunate to have someone like her here, bringing new experiences and a taste of a different culture to our city. She’s also focused on sharing recipes and cooking methods that reflect her culture – Karma just started a “class series,” where she hopes to keep alive traditional Mexican cooking techniques by teaching others how to hand-make tamales, tortillas, salsas, and other dishes. “I hope to educate people about ingredients that we use in our Mexican cuisines,” Karma shared. You can delve right into Columbus’ underground culinary scene at Casa Karmelitas on most Sundays at her husband’s art shop and gallery, Lookout Supply, located at 3440 W. Broad St. from 12-4. Lookout Supply, a hub for artists and culture, has played a pivotal role in enabling Casa Karmelitas and other artisans to share their passions with the public. “It’s kind of an underground thing, a platform for cool pop-ups in Columbus – and to us, it’s very dear and special,” she said. Casa Karmelitas will be closed all of January, but only to make room for something bigger and better: indoor seating inside Lookout Supply is coming this February, plus an entire shop revamp in order to bring more of the culture of street food and graffiti together. Karma explained, “It’s what you see and experience in Mexico, so we want to really bring that here, too – a place to enjoy great food and local art.” ♦
To learn more, follow @casakarmelitas on Instagram.
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SNACK
ATTACK! GLOBAL EDITION
From fiery noodles to Nepalese snack mix, we review spicy treats from around the world By Jack McLaughlin Photos by Sarah Pfeifer Story Design by Bryce Patterson
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n case you didn’t know, it’s cold outside. So what better way to warm up than with a whole host of spicy food from around the globe? Stock & Barrel editor Jack McLaughlin decided to dig into unique fiery snack foods from as far away as Nepal and Korea, and he’s here here to tell you what he thinks about each one, and how badly his taste buds have been singed. →
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Vinco: Salsa BIscuits With packaging and flavors alluding to Mexico, I was surprised to see this snack was created in Sri Lanka. And after trying them, I was very pleasantly surprised at just how good they were. These tiny triangles are deceptively spicy–with a heat that creeps up from the back of your throat– and also deceptively rich, boasting a butteriness that rivals a Ritz cracker (Ritz are underrated, by the way). Taste: 8/10 Spiciness: 4/10
Saino Int. Foods: XXX Chanachur Known in some places as Bombay Mix, chanachur is an Indian snack blend that resembles, in concept and color, the Tex Mex blend from Target, just turned up to 11. Featuring fried noodles, lentils and more, this snack is a texture-lover’s dream, and is jam-packed with fragrant Indian spices. The heat on this particular blend does not mess around either, with a definite spiciness that mounts over time. Since so many of the components of this snack are fried, there was an oiliness in the flavor that made me knock this down just a peg, but if you’re a fan of snack mixes, give chanachur a try. Taste: 7/10 Spiciness: 6/10
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Asian Thai Foods: 2 p.m. Fireball The snack with the best name on our list also came in with one the highest scores. This one offers a fun formal riff on the cheese puff, 2 p.m. fireballs, although we’re not entirely sure what the 2 p.m. part is a reference to. Maybe snack time between meals? While their advertised spiciness was overplayed–they’re hot, but not too hot–this snack was bursting with a veritable bouquet of savory Indian spices, and one that was unique to a palette adjusted to American snack food. They were crunchy, delicious, and just spicy enough. Taste: 9/10 Spiciness: 6/10
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Paldo: Volcano Chicken Noodle The world of packaged ramen noodles is a lush, wondrous place, but for all of its beauty, there is also terror. Or, as my colleague put it: “Those spicy ramens don’t **** around.” And they were right. Intensely spicy–in a way that grabs you from the jump but also builds over time–these were also immensely flavorful, with the star of the show being an unexpected sweetness that paired perfectly with the noodles’ massive spiciness.
snack attack Taste: 9.5/10 Spiciness: 9/10
Habi: Wasabi Flavored Peas I feel the need to add a disclaimer here: I do not like wasabi. Not at all. I did, however, make an attempt to approach this slate of snacks with a fair and open mind, and you know what? Despite me thinking wasabi (and horseradish, which this actually contained instead of real wasabi) tastes like a chemical burn, these were not half bad, in large part because their wasabi flavor is not overpowering or intense. In turn, they’re not very spicy, either. Probably due to the manageable amount of wasabi–the actual flavor of the pea comes through nicely. If you like wasabi, grab these. And if you don’t, well, you might sort of like these as well. Taste: 5/10 Spiciness: 2/10
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DRY JANUARY FINALLY HAS FLAVOR NEW WHITE CLAW 0% ALCOHOL
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NON-ALCOHOLIC • FULL FLAVOR + HYDRATING ELECTROLYTES WINTER 2023
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