2020 ALASKA VSITORS' GUIDE by Anchorage Daily News

VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2020

ALASKA BY WATER & AIR Flightseeing, boat tours to take your breath away PG.9 & 12

PG.18

DENALI NATIONAL PARK

Getting there, where to stay and what to do in the park

PG. 24

READY TO EXPLORE? Fun itineraries for 1, 2 or 3 days

PG. 31

PG. 47

Recommendations for local products and more

A guide to Alaska’s best bites

CANNABIS

DINING

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Rod’s Alaskan Guide Service www.rodsalaskanguideservice.com (907) 378-1851 Step into Alaska’s wild side with Rod’s. Guided snowmobile adventures on luxury snowmobiles with heated helmets, ice fishing expeditions in deluxe heated cabins, and dog sledding excursions with Alaskan Huskies. Winter gear included. Combo tour discounts. Daily Nov-April.

University of Alaska Museum of the North www.uaf.edu/museum (907) 474-7505 Discover Alaska Native cultures, natural wonders, diverse wildlife and Arctic dinosaurs. Explore 2,000 years of Alaska art. Learn about research by museum scientists. Original exhibits and breathtaking architecture. Watch the Dynamic Aurora movie shown daily. Museum Store and Café on site.

The Folk School https://folk.school (907) 457-1219 Year-round classes and programs for all ages in traditional crafts, outdoor skills, woodworking, and handson arts and sciences. Summer immersion programs include Week in the Woods, Weekend on the River, and more. Learn and create in an inspiring Alaskan community.

Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks—Alaska’s Golden Heart—and the gateway to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska. Make the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center your first stop to planning your Alaskan adventure.

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center 101 Dunkel Street • Downtown Fairbanks 8am – 9pm Summer • 8am – 5pm Winter

www.explorefairbanks.com (907) 456-5774 info@explorefairbanks.com

THE UP NORTH LOWDOWN IN AL ASK A, EVERYTHING IS SUPER-SIZED DEAR READER, You made it! Welcome to Alaska, the land of the midnight sun. Whether you’ve arrived by plane, sea or land, you’ve probably noticed you’re surrounded by mountains. Alaska is home to 39 mountain ranges and, with luck, on a clear day you might catch a glimpse of the tallest mountain in North America, Denali, towering at a whopping 20,310 feet. The impressive landmark makes a statement about this place: We do things big in Alaska. Those of us who call Alaska home live and breathe this oversized philosophy. Some of us are descended from pioneers who traveled north in the 1890s during the Klondike Gold Rush. Others may have come to the state during the oil boom, which saw the construction of the 800-mile-long trans-Alaska pipeline in the ’70s. Some Alaskans’ heritage goes back much further, to the 11 Alaska Native cultures — Inupiaq, St. Lawrence Island Yupik, Yup’ik, Cup’ik, Unangan, Alutiiq (Sugpiaq), Athabascan, Eyak, Haida, Tsimshian and Tlingit. At ADN, we’ve been telling Alaska’s stories since 1946. Whether you’re venturing out into the wild by boat, train or your own two

A group of large male brown bears dominate the prime fishing spots at the falls at McNeil River State Game Sanctuary across Cook Inlet from Homer. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

feet, or looking to experience the incredible culture, restaurants and microbreweries of city life, we’ve collected our best recommendations to guide you on your way. Don’t forget to follow us on Facebook, Instagram (anchoragedailynews) and Twitter (@adndotcom) to keep on top of news and weather as you travel the state. With nearly 600,000 square miles of things to see and do, we hope you’ll come back again and again.

— NINA WLADKOWSKI Associate Editor

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STATE of ALASKA DEPARTMENT of TRANSPORTATION & PUBLIC FACILITIES

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CONTENTS 6 / GLACIERS Get close to some ice

22 / WILDLIFE See wild animals up close

/ FLIGHTSEEING

24 / 3 ITINERARIES Fun trips in 1, 2 or 3 days

Alaska by air 12 / BOAT TRIPS Alaska by water

26 / WRANGELL ST. ELIAS Exploring Kennecott Mine and more

14 / FISHING Where fishing dreams come true

28 / MARIJUANA A guide to what’s legal in Alaska

18 / DENALI See North America’s tallest peak

31 / SHOPPING FOR CANNABIS Recommendations for local strains and more

21 / HIKING Tips, etiquette and safety

ANCHORAGE 35 / Great hikes near Anchorage 37 / Exploring Anchorage’s terrific trail system 40 / Downtown Anchorage packs a lot in a small area 42 / A wealth of arts and culture 45 / Nightlife in Anchorage 47 / Searching for Alaska’s finest bites? Start with seafood 49 / Anchorage’s vibrant coffee culture 51 / A guide to Alaska breweries

JUNEAU 53 / Visiting is a capital idea

$185

PER PERSON (LUNCH INCLUDED)

MAT-SU AND EAGLE RIVER 57 / Art and adventure abound

Enjoy glacier views, whales, otters, seals, and puffins all in one trip! Enjoy our luxurious warmed cabin on a chilly day, or brave the sea breeze as you take it all in.

KODIAK AND SOUTHEAST ALASKA 60 / Life on the water’s edge

GIRDWOOD, WHITTIER AND SEWARD 62 / The best of Alaska in one scenic roadtrip

KENAI PENINSULA 65 / Explore Hope, Seward, Soldotna, Kenai and Homer

FAIRBANKS 55 / Land of spectacular extremes

PUBLISHER EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR PRODUCTION COORDINATORS

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AD DIRECTOR

Kea Cuaresma Brandi Nelson Kiera Clark Karen Edes Ryan Estrada Victoria Hansen Sarah James Krystyna Rickett

Kevin Powell

PHOTO EDITOR

Anne Raup

COVER PHOTO

Bob Hallinen

CONTRIBUTORS

SALES MANAGER SALES

GRAPHIC DESIGN

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Travel into the heart of bear country in Lake Clark National Forest. Get up close and personal with wild Alaskan brown bears in their natural habitat.

www.AlaskanDestinations.com • (907) 953-8875 VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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Wander through walls of ice with a Matanuska Glacier Park guide. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

GLACIER GUIDE: HERE’S HOW YOU CAN GET UP CLOSE TO SOME ICE

Crevasses and moulins (deep holes) form in the glacier. Crevasses especially are not always visible. If you want to trek on the surface of a glacier, you need to either know what you are doing — i.e. be an experienced outdoorsperson hether you live in Alaska or with training in glacier travel — or hire a are visiting, glaciers are one of guide. the state’s most awe-inspiring If you are on a kayak or boat near a glacier, and unique attractions. Alaska stay half a mile away, as glaciers shift and calve is, after all, home to most of the glaciers in the without warning and create massive waves, United States. Dalps said. Land on a beach at least a mile There are glacier trips for people of all ages from a glacier, and camp 2 miles away. and athletic abilities. We narrowed those trips When walking around the toe, where down to the glaciers under 150 miles — or a the glacier ends, keep a distance of twice two- to three-hour drive — from Anchorage. the glacier’s height. Same goes for paddling But before we get to the adventures, let’s talk around an iceberg. briefly about glacier safety. And keep in mind — some of these glaciers Michelle Dalps, a park ranger at Denali may be hard to access depending on the time National Park and Preserve, urges all glacier of year you visit. Make sure to contact local travelers to bring warm, layered clothes, sturdy visitors centers for information on current shoes or boots, and a windbreak layer. Glaciers conditions. are colder than surrounding areas, and often Got it? Phew. Now for the fun stuff. windy. DISCLAIMER: This list explores some Walking on glaciers can be dangerous of the most popular glaciers and ways to see unless — and sometimes even if — you have them, but for brevity’s sake it does not include proper training and equipment. many of the tour operators that offer hikes, “Ice is unpredictable,” Dalps said. scenic flights, kayaking, etc. More information

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about tours can be found with a simple online search.

PORTAGE VALLEY About an hour’s drive from Anchorage on the Seward Highway is Portage Valley and the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center. Two glaciers are easily accessible in the valley. Byron Glacier is considered highly accessible for all ages. The 1.4-mile trail is a flat, easy walk. The first half is well-maintained, with a wide path. The second half is rocky, and to get closer to the glacier, visitors must cross boulders and small streams. Then there’s Portage Glacier. The glacier has receded out of view from the visitor center, but in the summer there’s a daily cruise and a pull-off where you can see the glacier from the road. A little farther down the road, Portage Pass trail is a 4-mile round-trip hike with glacier views. During the winter, frozen Portage Lake is a popular spot for skiers and bikers traveling to the toe of the glacier. There are no park rangers around in case of emergency, though, so traverse the ice at your own risk.

Continue down Portage Glacier Road another few miles — including a trip through the 2.5-mile-long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel — and you wind up in the town of Whittier. Whittier is the launching point for many cruises in Prince William Sound, which boasts more tidewater glaciers than any other region in North America. (Valdez is another launching spot, about a five-hour drive from Anchorage.) Columbia, Meares and Blackstone glaciers are just three of the oft-visited glaciers in the area. There are many different types of tours, kayaking opportunities and public-use cabins in Prince William Sound.

About an hour northeast of Anchorage is Eklutna Glacier, which provides most of the drinking water for Alaska’s largest city.

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wide at its terminus. The Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Area has 12 campsites, and a 20-minute walk to glacier-viewing platforms, but no direct access to the glacier. The only road-accessible route directly to the glacier face is through property owned by Matanuska Glacier Park LLC. Tours are sold out of a gift shop and information center. Then, it’s a short drive and hike to reach the glacier. Guided tours are available. The Glacier Park access costs $25 for Alaska residents, $30 for those from out of state in the summer. Winter access is guided only — $100 per person for first-time visitors. Guided winter tours are offered to Alaska residents at a reduced cost; call for current pricing.

WHITTIER AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND

About 60 miles southeast of Anchorage, Spencer Glacier is only accessible via the Alaska Railroad’s Glacier Discovery Train, which runs daily from May 23 through Sept. 16 this year. Visitors get off at the Spencer Whistle Stop in Chugach National Forest at 1:45 p.m. You can hike about 1.3 miles one way to the glacier viewing platform, or another 1.7 miles to the edge of the glacier (but be mindful of getting back to the train in time for the 4:40 p.m. pickup). Hike on your own or take a hike guided by a U.S. Forest Service ranger. Campsites and a cabin are open mid-June and can be reserved through the railroad. Tour operators offer guided kayaking, ice climbing or trips down the Placer River. The train continues past Spencer Glacier to Grandview, where Bartlett and Trail glaciers can be seen. There’s a short, 20-minute stop before the train loops around and heads back to Anchorage. A train ride to Seward has the same glacier views.

A runner competing in the Crow Creek Crossing is dwarfed by Raven Glacier as he crosses the pass. PHOTO BY DARON DEAN

Part of Chugach State Park, Eklutna Lake Campground has a large campsite, bike and kayak rentals, and a trail system that leads out to the glacier. Glacier access is a bit of a journey — to get up close, take the Eklutna Lakeside Trail, 12.9 miles one way. The path follows the shore of the lake, then to the river and glacier. Alternatively, the Bold Ridge Trail is about 4 miles long with a steep 3,600-foot elevation gain that rewards you with glacier views.

MATANUSKA GLACIER The Matanuska Glacier is about a two-hour drive on the Glenn Highway northeast of Anchorage. It’s touted as one of the few major ice sheets in the world that visitors can drive to and explore on foot. The glacier itself is gigantic — about 26 miles long and 4 miles

Alaska Veterans Museum 333 W Fourth Avenue, Suite 227, Anchorage, AK 99501 907.677.8802 Summer Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10 am-6 pm Winter Hours: Wed.-Sat. 10 am-5 pm Admission: $3

www.alaskaveterans.org

The South Fork Valley Trail is a relatively easy hike to Eagle and Symphony Lakes in Eagle River, about half an hour east of Anchorage. The hike is about 12 miles roundtrip. Flute Glacier can be reached by walking to Eagle Lake, then heading another 4 miles up the valley to the toe of the glacier.

TALKEETNA A little over two hours north of Anchorage, the town of Talkeetna is the staging point for climbers heading to Denali. It also has flightseeing options for those who want to bask in the splendor of North America’s tallest peak without climbing it. There are hundreds of unnamed glaciers on Denali, and 40 named ones, according to the National Park Service. The longest ones — Ruth, Kahiltna and Muldrow — each span more than 30 miles. Multiple Talkeetna air taxi operators offer trips around the mountain. Some land on the different glaciers.

SEWARD Exit Glacier is the only glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park accessible by road (and received a visit from former President Barack Obama in 2015). The Exit Glacier Nature Center is the

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starting point for a system of trails leading to the glacier. Those wanting more can make the strenuous 8.2-mile round-trip hike up the Harding Icefield Trail for spectacular views of the massive ice field. There’s also a 12-site, tents-only campground near the nature center. Exit Glacier Road is only open to cars during the summer, usually mid-May. In the winter, snowmachines, skiers, dog sleds and fat bikes are still allowed on the road. Then, there’s the rest of Kenai Fjords National Park. The park website highlights Bear Glacier Lagoon and boat tours that take visitors along the park’s tidewater glaciers.

KNIK RIVER Excursions to Knik Glacier in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough have exploded in popularity during the winter, with fat-tire bikers taking a northern route that crosses a river. Summer access comes by way of Knik Glacier Trail. There’s an 8-mile trail starting from Knik Glacier Tours that requires river crossings. Biking and boating are common. Tours are also offered through Knik River Lodge. There’s also flightseeing available to Knik and Colony Glacier.

CROW PASS TRAIL AND RAVEN GLACIER Raven Glacier can be seen on the 23-mile Crow Pass Trail, which has trailheads at Girdwood (40 miles from Anchorage on the Seward Highway ) and the Eagle River Nature Center (about 26 miles east of Anchorage). This hike is recommended from late June to early September due to snow and avalanche danger. For a glacier view with an 8-mile round trip, start from Girdwood’s Crow Creek trailhead. Hikers follow a series of switchbacks uphill, passing Jewel Glacier to the east of Crow Pass Cabin, and eventually arrive at Crow Pass and Raven Glacier. Hikers can continue on past the glacier, or turn around.

HATCHER PASS About 80 minutes north of Anchorage is the Hatcher Pass Management Area, a popular recreational area. The Gold Mint Trail is a 16-mile roundtrip journey that follows the Little Susitna River to the Mint Glacier Valley, where at the end, hikers can follow a fairly undeveloped trail up to Mint Glacier. There’s also good glacier viewing — and traversing — on the multiday Mint-Bomber Traverse for more advanced outdoor explorers.

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Journey above glaciers, gorges and peaks on a flightseeing tour for unique views of Alaska’s landscape.

NO VIEW IS MORE EPIC THAN THE ONE YOU’LL FIND ON AN ALASKA FLIGHTSEEING TOUR WE DO

PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

on the length of the trip, the departure point and whether the tour includes a landing. That might seem steep, but on a bluebird day, few trips deliver such gawk-worthy moments as you soar past sheer granite faces and above 586,412 square miles, glaciers. Alaska is by far the “Flightseeing is getting more and more biggest state in the union. popular in Alaska,” said Tony Bannock of But only four states have Regal Air, based in Anchorage. “It’s the way fewer road miles. of the world. When we started (in 1982) It makes sense that perhaps the best everybody wanted to hunt and fish. Now, it’s way to see Alaska — especially for visitors ecotourism.” with limited time — is by air on one of the He’s not alone in that view. Sarah Leonard, charters that specialize in flights into the president of the Alaska Travel Industry rugged and spectacular Alaska Range. You’ll Association, noted that about 15% of visitors enter the wilderness cathedral of mountains book flightseeing trips. In 2017, according to surrounding 20,310-foot Denali, the tallest peak in North America, and perhaps land on The McDowell Group’s Economic Impact of the Alaska Visitor Industry, all visitor tours one of the mountain’s glaciers. (including flightseeing) accounted for $394 Prices for flightseeing to Denali vary million in visitor spending. widely, from about $250 to $500 depending By M I K E C A M P B E L L

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“Talkeetna has become a destination,” said Suzanne Rust, co-owner of Rust’s Flying Service, which purchased Talkeetna’s K2 Aviation in 1996. “People are discovering it’s a cool little village. At the same time, they can fly up and see all the granite walls and rivers of ice (in the Alaska Range). “It’s growing every year.” On clear days perfect for flying, Rust noted, K2 may make more than four dozen Denali flights. And while Denali may be Alaska’s bestknown flightseeing tour, visitors’ aerial options don’t end there. Dozens of Alaska business licenses describe their operation as “scenic and sightseeing transportation,” according to a state database. Here are a few options:

BEAR WITH US Rust’s and Regal are among the Anchorage flight services that cross Cook Inlet to Chinitna Bay in Lake Clark National Park and the Brooks River in Katmai National Park in search of brown bears feeding on salmon. Bear-viewing trips are available out of Homer and Kodiak, too. Even though Denali remains Regal’s most requested flightseeing tour, “bear viewing gets more and more popular every year,” Bannock said. “If there was any way you could get a bear eating a salmon on Denali, that would be perfect.” Typically, Regal pilots make early-season scouting flights. Usually, the grizzlies are up and about by May 10, and the season runs into September. The company provides a preflight safety briefing in Anchorage. “At Brooks, the brown bears will walk beneath the boardwalk (spanning the river). But we never approach closer than 50 feet.”

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Knik River Lodge glacier tours start less than 60 miles from Anchorage, leaving from Knik River Lodge at the end of Knik River Road in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough. The lodge’s front lawn doubles as a helipad for helicopters that take groups of two or three people to the Knik Glacier, a five-minute flight away. Perhaps the most popular trip is dog sledding on the glacier after a landing. En route, you’ll see the Knik Glacier in all its glory as well as Lake George and a couple of the feeder glaciers.

scenic; flying in from Chitina is typically even more spectacular. A Wrangell Mountain Air flight may take you into the mountains and through the Fourth of July Pass if weather permits. You’ll see rock glaciers and maybe some critters. On the other side of the pass is giant Root Glacier. You’ll fly right past the old copper mine structures in neighboring Kennecott before landing in McCarthy. Flights range from 50 minutes ($250) to two hours ($395). Drivers park at the McCarthy footbridge, where you’ll make your way over to the airport and fly from there.

GIRDWOOD GRANDEUR

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Less than an hour south of Anchorage is the ski and recreation community of Girdwood. Alpine Air, operating since 1991, will fly you above the Mount Alyeska tram to land on glaciers or to Prince William Sound in search of calving glacial ice. In peak season, helicopters depart regularly from the Girdwood Airport. You can take a 30-minute flight, but the 60-minute tour with a landing on Colony Glacier ($399 per person) is even more fun. A walk on the glacier — and a sip from a glacial stream — will help you cool off in summer months. Another option is an Alpine Air flight out of Seward to inspect the magnificent tidewater glaciers of Kenai Fjords National Park.

BIG PARK, BIG PEAKS Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is the nation’s largest national park, featuring 14 of the 20 tallest peaks in North America. You can take a regularly scheduled flight from Chitina to McCarthy on the edge of the park to avoid driving the gravel-surfaced McCarthy Road, which is slow going (allow up to three hours) but

The 400-square-mile Columbia tidewater glacier has retreated nearly a dozen miles since 1982, but there’s still plenty of ice, and the warming climate has triggered a surge of calving, during which large pieces of ice break off and splash into Prince William Sound. “The Columbia Glacier is calving about 2 cubic miles of icebergs into the ocean each year,” said William Colgan, a research associate at the University of Colorado’s Earth Science and Observation Center. “It is astounding to watch.” A convenient way to see it is to book a flight to Valdez with Ravn Alaska. Try to get a window seat on the left side of the plane. When you land in Valdez, you can circle back by boat on a charter for a Columbia Glacier view from the water. Other Valdez flight services offer tours of Columbia and the Valdez Glacier as well.

BLUE ICE BEAUTY Commercial flights into the state capital of Juneau can offer great views of Mendenhall Glacier. But several companies offer helicopter tours, typically an hour or two. And if you

want a double-shot of Alaskana on a single trip, book one that includes dog sledding on a glacier. Most helicopter tours require that three seats be booked before the flight, potentially an issue if you’re traveling alone or as a couple. According to Juneau Shore Tours, “undoubtedly the most sought-after Juneau flightseeing option, the Icefield Excursion, is our recommendation for those looking to see Alaska from a bird’s eye view but not necessarily interested in dogsledding.” TEMSCO Helicopters offers an array of trips, too. On most of the tours, you’ll get a nice view of downtown Juneau, including the popular Mount Roberts Tramway, which leaves from the cruise port. On most trips, you’ll see the exposed deep-blue ice that’s the face of Taku Glacier, a sharp contrast to the muddy Taku River.

WATCH THE WEATHER Those are some highlights for Alaska flightseers, but Denali trips remain at the top of many must-see lists. You can catch a flight right out of Anchorage, but that’s more expensive than driving north to Talkeetna and flying with K2 Aviation, Talkeetna Air Taxi or Sheldon Air Service. The companies offer a selection of tours that include views of

Soar over the Tokositna and Ruth glaciers on a breathtaking flightseeing tour of Denali. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

the Ruth Glacier, the Wickersham Wall, the climbers’ base camp at Kantishna Glacier and the Denali summit (weather permitting). Particularly memorable is a tour that includes a glacier landing. Most pilots favor Ruth Glacier, because it is so spectacular and the runway is well-marked. But the clouds move in and out quickly, so several other glaciers are available if the Ruth is socked in. “Alaska Range weather certainly is the crux of our business, with every year unique,” said Paul Roderick, who’s owned Talkeetna Air Taxi since 1996. “Some seasons are dry and sunny with at least 20 good flying days per month. Others have the opposite effect, 20 wet days.” Keep in mind that weather in Alaska mountains can change rapidly. In 2013, six

tourists on a Mount McKinley flightseeing trip with Talkeetna Air got an extra dose of adventure when their pilot, concerned about a light snowfall, landed his Beaver on Ruth Glacier and decided to stay put because of deteriorating weather. The passengers spent two nights huddled together in the aircraft with basic gear, such as sleeping bags, a stove and food. Then Park Service rangers hiked in more supplies to the stranded passengers, who flew out a day later. There were no injuries and all had a stirring tale to tell when they got home. “The mountain is almost like a living, breathing organism,” said Roderick, who’s flown in the Alaska Range for 29 years. “Hopefully you don’t ever get too comfortable with it. It doesn’t matter how many years of flying you have, the conditions are always changing up there — the visibility, lighting, blowing snow, fog. It’s never the same.” While a little more spendy, helicopter flightseeing offer an alternative. Enclosed in Plexiglas with no wings to peer over, even trips as short as 30 minutes can provide exceptional views. Wherever you want to see, there’s probably a flightseeing business nearby. Among the locales where tours are offered: Kenai, Soldotna, Tok, McCarthy, Homer, Girdwood, King Salmon, Talkeetna, Juneau, Ketchikan, Fairbanks, Skagway and Kantishna.

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WHETHER IT’S A BOAT TOUR, RAFT OR KAYAK, GET ON THE WATER AND SOAK UP SOME SCENERY Paddlers try out different forms of paddling, including, from left, canoeing, stand-up paddle boarding, and kayaking at Goose Lake. PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

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ne dependable way to escape crowds of Alaska summertime visitors is simple. Just get wet. When you see the 49th state from the water — whether aboard a tour boat, paddling a kayak, renting a powerboat, or moseying around a lake on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) — you won’t be trading elbows with anyone. And what’s not to like? You can still see wildlife, glaciers and mountains soaring above the water. Or soak up quiet of a cool July evening paddling on a Southcentral Alaska lake, watching a green-winged teal paddle with her chicks in tow. Options are plentiful.

BOAT TOURS Human-powered trips in rafts or kayaks are rewarding, but to see the most glaciers and marine mammals, consider a boat tour in Resurrection Bay or Prince William Sound. They’re accessible to people of all ages and abilities. 12

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Major Marine Tours has cruises in Kenai Fjords National Park out of Seward from 3½ to 8½ hours on vessels ranging from large catamarans to much smaller ships. Many of them include onboard narration by a National Park Service ranger, turning a pleasure cruise into a learning opportunity. In Prince William Sound, Blackstone Bay or Harriman Fjord both have glaciers that descend from extensive icefields to the ocean. Marine mammals including otters, seals and whales are usually visible. Although a full-day Prince William Sound trip is pricier than a short trip, you usually see much more. Phillips 26 Glacier Cruise, which sails through Oct. 3, travels up College Fjord, taking in views of the perilously steep glaciers that cascade down from Mount Marcus Baker, the highest peak in the Chugach, before traveling through Harriman Fjord. For nervous flatlanders, the company offers what it calls a “no seasickness guarantee.” Family-owned Lazy Otter Charters, now in its 26th season, offers a convenient five-hour trip in the Sound, including the spectacular waterfalls of Blackstone Bay. Kenai Fjords Tours has an array of trips in Resurrection Bay, including a dinner cruise, which delivers breathtaking scenery

of towering peaks and hanging glaciers above Seward. A tour to Northwestern Fjord is popular — you’re likely to see puffins, sea lions and whales, as well as tidewater glaciers plunging from the Harding Icefield. At around $180 for a full day cruising, you probably aren’t paying more than you would to buy gas for your own boat. In spring, a four-hour tour that includes lunch is designed to offer a glimpse of gray whales migrating from the Baja in Mexico to their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic.

WHITEWATER RAFTING Have a hankering to paddle whitewater? Consider a trip with NOVA on the Matanuska River. Lion’s Head, a section of Class III-IV whitewater that cascades between towering cliffs and the Matanuska Glacier’s terminal moraine, is particularly scenic and thrilling. If you prefer a mellower float, NOVA also runs trips through the easier rapids just downstream of Lion’s Head, a location that’s particularly stunning as the leaves change color in August. There’s even an evening raft trip to take advantage of Alaska’s long summer days.

If you’re headed toward the Kenai Peninsula and looking for a bigger adrenaline rush, consider a trip down the Class IV-V Six Mile Creek. Six Mile’s turquoise waters wind between overhanging cliff walls and hammer down intimidating rapids that drop 50 feet per mile and clients paddle under their guide’s supervision. It is one of the most intense guided raft trips you’ll find in the country, due to the powerful rapids on the creek. Only physically fit individuals who can swim well — occasionally people get flung out of the rafts — should sign up for this trip with NOVA or the Chugach Outdoor Center.

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The skies begin to clear following a rain shower as a kayak tour group returns to Miller’s Landing in Seward. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

SEA KAYAKING Though the Gulf of Alaska has some of the world’s worst maritime weather, there are often calm waters and spectacular sea kayaking near Anchorage. Consider a day trip to Resurrection or Kachemak Bay or plan an overnighter to Prince William Sound to observe whales, otters, sea lions, glaciers and towering peaks. To paddle in Resurrection Bay, you might drive to near the road’s end and rent kayaks from Miller’s Landing, which is conveniently located for an easy paddle out to Caines Head and back. Expect to see marine mammals and spectacular sea arches. In Kachemak Bay, Mako’s Water Taxi offers a 20-minute ride across Kachemak Bay. From there you can paddle around Yukon, Grass and the Herring Islands. Mako’s runs trips all day, so you can head out in the morning, paddle for a few hours and come back in the evening. Prince William Sound has one of the most underrated sea kayak trips in the region: an out-and-back paddle to Decision Point, 9 miles each way. Rent kayaks at Epic Charters and follow the shoreline out to Decision Point’s scenic campground, which features bear boxes and cleared tent sites. Glaciers and soaring peaks on the other side of the bay are visible on clear days. Make sure to check the weather before embarking on any sea kayaking trip, and don’t

head out unless the marine forecast calls for calm seas (2 feet or less). The marine forecast is easy to find: On weather.gov, simply click on the body of water you plan on visiting.

STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD Rent a board and take a lesson to see whether you’ve got the balance, strength and aptitude for stand-up paddle-boarding. Among the Southcentral companies marketing boards are Liquid Adventures in Seward; Ocean Swell Ventures in Homer; Alaska Rivers Company in Cooper Landing, which takes clients to Kenai Lake and Portage Lake; Alaska Paddleboard Guru in Anchorage and Eagle River; and True North Adventures in Homer. Alaska Paddleboard Guru owner Karl Mittelstadt plans to set up shop at Anchorage’s Goose Lake once again this summer. “It’s all about the weather,” he said. “If it’s sunny most of the summer, I make money. If it’s not, I’m in trouble.”

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POWERBOAT RENTALS If you’ve got a need for speed and a fat checkbook, you can rent a powerboat from such businesses as Whittier Marine Charters. One-day rates start at $650 and go up from there. Big Lake Boat Rentals in the Mat-Su north of Anchorage also has pontoons for an easygoing tour of the 145-square-mile lake — and jet skis for those with a need for speed. Unless you’re aboard a big cruise ship, expect to get wet when you take to Alaska’s waterways. That’s OK: There are no better views in the state.

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What’s the appeal? “The experience of essentially standing on a lake, my feet inches from the surface, gave me a new perspective,” wrote Alaska outdoors columnist Alli Harvey of her inaugural paddle. “It felt playful, a feeling I don’t readily access as an adult since so much of what I do outside is structured — I’m going for an hourlong run; I’m going to ride my bike to the grocery store, etc.”

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Reel in a whopper of a salmon mere steps from downtown Anchorage on the banks of Ship Creek. PHOTO BY RUGILE KALADYTE

CASTING CALL: URBAN AND REMOTE ALASKA ARE WHERE FISHING DREAMS COME TRUE By J O S H N I V A

ensational silvers and killer kings. Trophy-worthy trout and fantastically finned grayling. Hearty halibut and rewarding reds. It’s a lineup of Alaska’s finest fishing action and these spectacular species — and many more — are all within casting distance, driving distance and short-flight distance of Anchorage. Yes, Alaska’s largest, busiest and most populated urban hub is also a fishing fantasy come to life … and that isn’t a fishing tale. Even the most secretive fisherman will brag about this fishery, and it couldn’t be kept secret anyway: Anchorage is a mainstay on any “America’s Best Fishing Cities” list. “You can go fishing just about anywhere

in Anchorage,” Dan Bosch said in a 2018 interview. Bosch is the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s regional management coordinator for the Anchorage area, among other Alaska regions. “It’s some of the best fishing around. And the accessibility — it’s so easy. Right at your doorstep.” For Alaska visitors, that includes hotel doorsteps. The community is covered in streams, creeks and lakes that are packed and stocked with tens of thousands of fun, fighting fish. And there are seemingly endless fishing options around Southcentral Alaska that are just a short and scenic drive or flight away. Sport fishing is a year-round activity in Anchorage and Alaska, but the action surges in summer. From May to September, the fish counts are high, the midnight sun is warm and bright, and fishermen are giddy. Where should you wet a line? Around Anchorage, practically anywhere there’s water, there are

fish. Many of these fishing holes also offer peace, quiet and the natural vibe of wild Alaska. As you cast and relax, it’s easy to forget you’re in Alaska’s biggest city.

SHIP CREEK — ANCHORAGE One of Anchorage’s most exciting fishing holes is set in one of the city’s most popular hospitality hot spots — downtown. Ship Creek carves across the northern side of Anchorage, passing by the William Jack Hernandez Hatchery before depositing downtown into picturesque Cook Inlet. It’s a beautiful natural oasis on the edge of Anchorage’s cityscape. Its water is home to a constant run of summer salmon — kings early in the season, silvers (coho) later — and its banks are usually bustling with fishermen. “Right downtown you can fish for king salmon and coho salmon,” said Bosch, himself a Ship Creek regular who has worked and fished the Anchorage area for decades. “If you

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haven’t fished there before, just watch what everyone is doing, if they’re using eggs or spinners, and where they are setting up along the creek.”

URBAN HOT SPOTS Ship Creek might be the most visible venue, but incredible fishing opportunities abound in every corner of town and every direction of Southcentral Alaska. Anchorage lakes (Campbell, DeLong, Jewel, Mirror, Sand Lake) are loaded, and creeks (Bird, Campbell and Ship) and rivers (Eagle and Eklutna) are crammed with an array of fish: from several freshwater and landlocked salmon species to Dolly Varden/Arctic char and awesome Arctic grayling. Chester Creek runs through the center of town and can be great for rainbow trout (8-12 inches!), too.

OUTSIDE ANCHORAGE ACTION ROAD TRIP REELING Anchorage is also the jumpingoff point for fishing adventures all over Southcentral Alaska and beyond. A short drive or quick hike in practically any direction from urban Anchorage adds more casting spots. For next-level groundfish and salmon fishing, drive south for an hour (Prince William Sound out of Whittier) or two (Resurrection Bay out of Seward on the Kenai Peninsula) or five (Kachemak Bay out of Homer on the Kenai Peninsula), or drive north for 30 minutes to two hours (Matanuska-Susitna Borough). Some of Alaska’s — and the world’s — most exciting salmon fishing goes down on the Kenai Peninsula, a few hours’ drive south of Anchorage, where the Kenai, Russian, Anchor and Kasilof rivers flow flush with fish. This is action-packed angling for Alaska’s salmon species. It can also be combat fishing at its gnarliest. When the fish are running, anglers line the banks, practically shoulder to shoulder, while locals and guides motor boats up and down the rivers,

homing in on the hot spots. For most, all the work is worth it when they land one of Alaska’s bright and hard-fighting salmon, creating photo-worthy moments that will be social media profile shots for years. The fishing is also exciting in port towns like Whittier, Seward and Homer, which are all a beautiful drive south of Anchorage. There, you can cast from the banks for salmon, but you’ll improve your odds and your options by jumping aboard a charter boat to chase the big, bad, barn door halibut and cruise along salmon runs as they return to their freshwater spawning grounds. Catching a big halibut is tough work, but it’s a different kind of fish fight. Instead of running and splashing, these flat lunkers are more likely to play like dead weight as you slowly reel them up from the dark of the ocean bottom. They sometimes freak when they surface and see daylight, but handy deckhands are ready with a net and/or a gaff to snatch the flopping fish. The port town of Valdez is an even longer drive away, but the roads there are about as scenic (glaciers, mountains, wildlife, waterfalls) as it gets and once you’ve arrived, the fishing is equally impressive. Point your vehicle north from Anchorage and you’ll soon have awe-inspiring Denali looming large in your windshield, guiding you toward the glacier-carved and fish-filled Matanuska-Susitna Borough. You’ll also find exciting fishing all around the Mat-Su, some less than an hour from Anchorage, some a little farther. When the salmon are running, the region’s rivers are slamming, especially the Deshka River, Willow Creek, Susitna Rivers, Eklutna Tailrace and Montana Creek. If you prefer a slower pace, there are dozens of lakes packed with grayling, trout, Arctic char and landlocked salmon; favorites include Nancy Lake, Big Lake, Rolly Lakes and Knik Lake. If you like lakes, consider packing a lunch and your gear, renting a canoe and soaking up the midnight sun and the peace of the Alaska outdoors.

ACTION OFF THE ROAD SYSTEM FLYING FISHING If you’ve come all the way to Alaska to chase fish, you might as well dial up the fun to a once-ina-lifetime experience by booking a fly-in fishing adventure. From Anchorage, floatplanes, skilled pilots and savvy guides will get you to the fish in high flying fashion. Often, you’ll take off in a floatplane from Anchorage’s Lake Hood, which buzzes with around-the-clock activity during Southcentral’s warm, bright summers. If you think the takeoff from the lake is thrilling, what until the landing! And that’s just the start of the fun. (Of course, more conventional plane rides are available; you could even fly commercial to great fishing towns like Cordova, Ketchikan, Juneau and more.) What do you want to catch? A

fighting salmon? A plump trout? A vicious pike? All of the above? Your guides have you covered. How long do you want to cast? Half-day, full-day and multiday trips are available. Want to go really big? Hook up with an outfit that will get you to a remote, fly-in lodge, where you can spend your days fishing until your arm is sore from casting and your nights recovering like royalty in massive cabin-like lodge. This is the ultimate in Alaska fishing experiences.

FISHING FACTOIDS Overwhelmed by the options? Too excited to think clearly? Contact Fish and Game in person, on the ADF&G Sport Fish Information Center phone line (907-267-2218) or online (adfg. license@alaska.gov or adfg.alaska. gov) for questions about fishing, licenses, regulations or anything else Anchorage or Alaska fishing related. Fish and Game’s We Fish AK and Go Fish AK sport fishing websites are especially helpful for ambitious anglers.

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The Sport Fish Information Center (333 Raspberry Road) provides up-to-date information on all the fisheries. You can even borrow fishing gear. There are also area fishing blogs and message boards, friendly fishermen and retailers who are happy share tips while you shop for tackle or gear. Lures and lines, rods and reels — the choices are endless. But there’s one piece of equipment fishermen (residents 18 or older and nonresidents age 16 or older) must carry: a sport fishing license. Nonresidents have many fishing license options, from one-day ($25) to 14-day ($105) to annual ($145). If you are on a quest for a king, you will also need a king salmon tag, which runs an additional $15 for one day and up to $100 for an annual stamp. For residents, there are numerous license options for different fishermen (military, low income, senior citizens, blind), so do your research. NOTE: You might see or hear about Alaskans slaying the salmon and filling the freezers while dipnetting. Yes, it can be an awesome and fruitful fishing experience, but only Alaska residents are legally allowed to do it. Alaska sport fishing licenses are available at most sporting goods shops, even many grocery and convenience stores, and online, of course. It’s also a fisherman’s responsibility to know regulations, which are easily available in print and online. Bosch said the key to figuring it out is to read the general regulations for each region (example: the Anchorage area), then look for site-specific regulations for streams (example: Ship Creek). In other words, know where you are fishing and what you are fishing for. Oh, and always be bear aware — clean your fish and dispose of fish waste responsibly. If you’re plotting a chartered or guided fishing experience, whether by road, boat or plane, shop around. Most reputable charter companies have years of experience and are easy to study up on via their websites and social media. Find a perfect fishing fit by being specific about what you want to catch, how long you want to fish, and how much you want to spend. One charter fishing bonus: It often comes with sightseeing in some of Alaska’s most incredible landscapes and wildlife, including water wonders like whales, orcas, porpoises and countless seabirds. And don’t forget the bevy of fishing derbies that take place all summer in regions across Alaska. Catching a trophy fish in Alaska is memory making; neglecting to buy a derby ticket and then landing a potentially winning fish is heartbreaking. Fish on!

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DENALI NATIONAL PARK: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

A visit to Denali National Park includes the drama of nature taken to new heights. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

deluxe motorcoach, another option is The Park Connection (907-2450200, alaskacoach.com). During peak summer months, they have twice-daily services between Anchorage or Seward and Denali. TRAIN: Taking the train adds about three hours of travel time to your journey, but it goes through wilderness only accessible on the track (plus, there’s a dining and bar car, knowledgeable guides and viewing-dome cars with sweeping views of the mountains and valleys along the way). The train makes a stop on the nearly 1,000-foot-long railroad bridge over a enormous gorge known as Hurricane Gulch. On a clear day, you can see Denali from there. (A more economical option both in terms of funds and time is taking the rails one way and a motorcoach back. Bonus: You’ll see even more of the state.) Check out alaskarailroad.com for more information on riding the train.

By B A I L E Y B E R G

ure, Denali National Park and Preserve is named for the nation’s mightiest mountain, but the 6-million-acre park encompasses so much more. Denali has options for every type of visitor. Whether you’re an avid backpacker looking to forge new trails or a relaxed traveler content to watch for animals on a tour, you’re sure to experience jaw-dropping scenery.

GETTING THERE Located roughly four hours north of Anchorage and two hours south of Fairbanks on the George Parks Highway, it’s an easy drive to the heart of the state — after all, there’s only one road entrance to the park. If you don’t have your own wheels, here’s how to get there: BUS: One option is Alaska/Yukon Trails (907-452-3337, alaskashuttle.com), a passenger van company capable of transporting up to 16 passengers. They run from Anchorage to Talkeetna to Denali to Fairbanks, and the same route in reverse. Expect to leave town early for either departure and to get in around lunchtime. For a ride in a

GETTING AROUND The Park Service maintains the only road leading into the park. It’s a 92-mile, mostly gravel route running parallel to the Alaska Range to what was once the mining community of Kantishna. From late May to early September, visitors can drive the first 14 miles of the road to Savage River, but to go farther, you have to be on foot, bike or riding on one of the school-bus-style shuttles. You can hop on a cheaper, more flexible bus tour that allows you to get off and on and explore on your own, or you can take a narrated bus tour with a driver who crafts an

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itinerary for you. There are also courtesy buses that serve the portion of the park road that is publicly driveable, which includes stops at the sled dog kennel and visitors center. Important 2020 travel note: In August 2019, a landslide caused by heavy rains closed the road past the halfway point for the rest of the season. In mid-February this year, the National Park Service announced that it plans to have the road fully reopened by early June, though at time of reporting, nothing was official. Updates can be found at nps.gov/denali under alerts.

‘WILL THE MOUNTAIN BE OUT? ’ WHERE TO SEE DENALI: Rising 20,310 feet, Denali can be seen from Anchorage to Fairbanks on a clear day. But clear days can be hard to come by. National Park Service rangers stress to visitors that the mammoth mountain is only out one of every three days (a rule that isn’t hard and fast — it could be out for days at a time and then hidden for a month straight). Even with its great height, the mountain isn’t visible from the park entrance, the surrounding campgrounds or nearby hotels. Miles 9 and 11 are your first chances of spotting it, the latter spot having a pullout and interpretive waysides with information about the cliff. There are myriad other spots along the road that allow for peeks of the peak, though the most iconic view of Denali is at Reflection Pond, near Mile 85.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO SLED DOG DEMONSTRATIONS: Denali is the only national park in the U.S. where rangers do winter patrols via dog sled. But during the few precious months when there isn’t snow on the ground, the dogs have different duties: educating tourists, posing for pictures and

getting belly rubs. Their kennel is free to visit, and their handlers give a number of demonstrations throughout the day about what it means to be part of the team. (Bonus: There’s usually a litter of puppies there training to become full-fledged sled dogs.) DENALI NATIONAL PARK VISITORS CENTER: If you come in by train, the visitors center will be one of the first buildings you see. It’s the main information center in the park, with exhibits on the park’s history and the animals you might see in the boreal forest outside its doors. There are also various ranger-led activities and hikes that launch from there. MURIE SCIENCE AND LEARNING CENTER: A favorite of those traveling with children, this center promotes science and stewardship of the land. There are a number of hands-on exhibits and short courses designed for families with kids. EIELSON VISITOR CENTER: Located at Mile 66, you can reach this visitor center by shuttle. On a clear day, the views of Denali are stunning. Three maintained trails spider out from the center, though hikers are welcome to go off path. Inside the center is also a small art gallery with works depicting the wilderness of Denali. WONDER LAKE: This is where Ansel Adams’ famous photograph of the mountain was taken. When Denali isn’t shrouded in clouds, its image is mirrored in the water below, making Wonder Lake a favorite spot for photographers. ADVENTURE SPORTS AND FLIGHTSEEING: Various operators tout all manners of escape from their storefronts on Glitter Gulch, a half-mile stretch of road near the park entrance. Activities range from ATV rides and ziplining near the park to rafting down the Nenana River or flightseeing around the mountain. Shop around to find an itinerary that matches your interest and budget.

VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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Tourists gather at the Teklanika Rest Area to watch a couple of grizzly bears on the Teklanika River bed. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

W HERE TO S TAY THERE ARE SIX CAMPGROUNDS IN DENALI NATIONAL PARK: Riley Creek (at the park entrance), Savage River (13 miles in), Sanctuary River (23 miles), Teklanika River (29 miles), Igloo Creek (35 miles) and Wonder Lake (85 miles). The sites have anywhere from seven to 53 tent-only campsites, with the exception of Riley Creek, which has 150 sites suitable for camping and RVs. Considering how few campsites there are in the park, we highly recommended you make a reservation ahead of time. For more information, go to reservedenali.com. There are also many hotel, cabin, B&B and hostel options for visitors to Denali National Park. Many are clustered just outside the park entrance, a few are found at the end of the park road and more are located in neighboring towns. While remote, the accommodations at the end of the park road in Kantishna are far from roughing it. Places like Denali Backcountry Lodge, Kantishna Roadhouse and Camp Denali may be 92 miles into the national park, but they don’t skimp on creature comforts like running water, electricity, heat and private bathrooms (granted, there’s no Wi-Fi or cell reception). Generally much spendier than the options at the park entrance, these lodges are usually all-inclusive. Outside the park, your options vary widely. Denali Park Salmon Bake Restaurant and Cabins offers simple, affordable rooms with

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private bathrooms, as well as basic dry cabins; Crow’s Nest is made up of terraced rows of cozy cabins tucked up on a hillside, offering exponentially better views of Mount Healy the higher you go; and Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge is one of the biggest lodging options with high-end amenities, including an espresso bar, a dinner theater and laundry services. More accommodation options can be found at denalichamber.com.

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HIKING TIPS AND ETIQUETTE: WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TACKLING THE TRAILS By B A I L E Y B E R G

ikers are spoiled for options in Alaska. From quick jaunts near urban centers to multiday hikes, there is no shortage of trail options. While some hikes demand special equipment, like crampons for a glacier trek or a tent for overnight ventures, there are other items you need every time. Here are some of the essentials.

GEAR GOOD SHOES: If you’re doing a fairly flat or paved trail, you can probably get by with trail running shoes or a pair of hiking sandals. If you’re on a hike with multiple creek crossings, muddy trails or scree, you may spend more time missing the ankle support and waterproofing powers of your hiking boots than you’ll spend actually enjoying nature. LAYERS: Even the most beautiful bluebird day can devolve into a downpour of rain. Be sure to bring moisture-wicking base layers, an insulating layer and a waterproof outer layer to keep you dry and cozy. A good rule of thumb is to avoid cotton-based clothing, as it doesn’t dry as quickly as others. BEAR PROTECTION: Did you know that an estimated 30,000 brown bears and 100,000 black bears are spread throughout Alaska? While bear attacks are rare, it’s always a good idea to carry bear spray in an accessible spot (and to know how to use it). WATER: Staying well hydrated while hiking is essential for both performance and general survival, so if you can’t carry the amount you need for your trip, bring a filter or purifying tablets to cleanse the water you find along the way. Clear flowing water, like streams, is usually a better, safer water source than stagnant bodies of water, such as lakes and ponds. MAP: Cellphone coverage is a rare gift in Alaska’s backcountry, so don’t plan on relying on your cell service to download maps on the trail. Even busier trails in the city can be out of range. If you’re going to use your phone, download a topographic map on your device before you head out. Otherwise, print maps of your desired trail (plus a few miles more of the surrounding area, in case you accidentally wander too far off the map) or pick one up at stores like Alaska Geographic and REI.

TRAIL ETIQUETTE Consider these nature’s rules of the road. DON’T CUT SWITCHBACKS: When done repeatedly in high-traffic areas, it can lead to erosion. If you stop for a water break or to take a picture, move to the side of the trail so others can get by easily. GIVE HIKERS MOVING UPHILL THE RIGHT OF WAY: They’re working harder than those going downhill. PACK OUT WHAT YOU PACK IN: Don’t leave empty bottles, food wrappers or toilet paper in the woods. Why would you want to destroy the nature you’re out here to see? BE MINDFUL OF NOISE POLLUTION: Many people go out into the woods to get away from city noise and to enjoy the sounds of nature, so don’t blast music on speakers. That being said, consider wearing a bear bell to warn the other mammals in the park that you’re coming — you don’t want to catch them by surprise.

SAFETY AROUND MOOSE AND BEARS Generally speaking, neither bears nor moose want anything to do with you. Try to make noise when you’re on the trails — talking, clapping or singing are all good signals that people are coming. If you’re making enough noise that animals can hear your approach and travel slowly enough that they have time to move, you might not even see them. Alaska’s Department of Fish and Game (adfg.alaska.gov) has some good resources about what to do in case of a close encounter. Here are some general pointers. BEARS: If you encounter a bear, give it plenty of space and remain calm. If it appears that the bear hasn’t seen you, move away slowly, never taking your eyes off it. If it has seen you, face the bear, stand your ground and talk to it in a normal voice so it recognizes you as a human. Try to seem bigger by standing near others in your group or putting your arms above your head. If the bear comes toward you, raise your voice, throw rocks or sticks and use a deterrent like bear spray if you have it. Don’t try to outrun the bear — you can’t, and running will trigger the animal’s prey drive, causing it to chase you instinctively. In the very unlikely event that you are attacked, either play dead or fight back. To play dead, lie as still as possible on your stomach and protect the back of your neck with your hands. If the bear no longer feels you’re a threat, it will most likely leave. Stay motionless as long as you’re able. If the bear sees you moving again, it may renew its attack. To read up more on the topic, see the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s guide: “The Essentials for Traveling in Alaska’s Bear Country” at adfg.alaska.gov. MOOSE: Like bears, moose aren’t usually aggressive unless they’re provoked. Unlike bears, if one is charging, you should run — a bull moose can weigh over 1,400 pounds, which can do some serious damage. Get behind a tree, car, fence, or put some kind of sturdy object or structure between you and the moose.

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A bull moose walks across a small pond between the Seward Highway and the Alaska Railroad tracks at Potter Marsh in Anchorage. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

WHERE TO SEE BEARS, MOOSE AND OTHER WILDLIFE — SAFELY By B A I L E Y B E R G

DALL SHEEP

he 49th state is home to an astounding variety of wildlife: Some species are present at the highest density anywhere in the world. These animals have the power to captivate locals and visitors alike; you’ll often see cars pulling over to get closer looks. Here are just a few for your bucket list and tips on where to scope them out.

MOOSE Locals will joke that moose are to Alaska what squirrels are to the Lower 48. While they’re not quite that ubiquitous, they do often show up where you’d least expect them — perusing a backyard garden, browsing shrubs in a grocery store parking lot or enjoying the long grass on the side of the highway. They’re hard to miss: Adult females weigh between 800 to 1,300 pounds and males tip the scales at 1,200 to 1,600 pounds.

BEAR Of the three species of bear found in Alaska, the two you’re most likely to see are brown bears and black bears. Black bears, the smallest of the bunch, usually dwell in forested areas, but are also more likely to wander into town or pick through garbage cans. Brown bears, also called grizzlies, are spread throughout most of the state. A subspecies of brown bear, the Kodiak bear, is found exclusively in the Kodiak 22

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Archipelago. Then there’s the Arctic-dwelling polar bear, which is primarily found in coastal areas above the Arctic Circle and on the North Slope.

VISITORS’ GUIDE • 2020

Snow white with small, curved, golden-brown horns, this nimble subspecies of sheep thrives in mountainous terrain, where predators can’t reach and humans don’t bother them. You might see them high up on the near-vertical rock face of the Seward Highway — where they can sometimes distract drivers and present a traffic hazard. They’re also found throughout Chugach State Park and scattered around Denali National Park and Preserve.

SALMON Five kinds of salmon can be found in the rivers and streams of Alaska: sockeye (also called red), pink (aka humpy), king (or chinook), coho (silver) and chum (dog). During the summer months, salmon return from the sea to the waters where they were hatched. Their internal homing devices bring them remarkably close to where they entered the world, and that’s where they mate, spawn and die. You can watch their epic homecoming journeys throughout the state, though one of the easiest viewing areas, Ship Creek, runs through the heart of downtown Anchorage. There you can watch kings, coho and pink salmon charging upstream and eager anglers standing shoulder-toshoulder, trying to fi ll their freezers. Kings start running in late May through July and cohos claim the river from August through midSeptember.

WHALES Take a boat in Prince William Sound or Resurrection Bay and, if the timing is right, you’ll see the tails of humpback, bowhead and gray whales waving in the distance. A few of the other kinds of whales in Alaska: beluga populations found in Cook Inlet and Turnagain Arm; bowheads, which come close to North Slope villages during their migration; and orcas, found in Glacier Bay area and the Aleutian Islands.

WHERE TO SEE ALASK A ANIMALS UP CLOSE ALASKA WILDLIFE CONSERVATION CENTER (PORTAGE) Each of the animals at the Conservation Center has a story. Uli, the female black bear, was found wandering downtown Juneau as a 5-pound cub; Jade, the red fox, was found by joggers after being orphaned; Artemis, a musk ox calf, was found hiding under a raised utility building near Prudhoe Bay after she was separated from her herd. They’ve all found a lifelong home at the sanctuary, which is dedicated to animal care, conservation, research and education. The center has over 200 acres of habitat for the animals — including moose, wood bison, deer, elk, birds of prey, coyotes and reindeer. Some, like the wood bison, are raised and reintroduced to the wild. (Mile 79 of the Seward Highway, Portage)

ALASKA ZOO (ANCHORAGE) Started in 1969 with just Annabelle, an elephant won by a local grocer in a contest, the zoo now includes more than 100 animals, including polar bears, Dall sheep, harbor seals and Arctic fox. Beyond simply providing a way to view the animals, the zoo focuses on education, research and animal rehabilitation. (4731 O’Malley Road, Anchorage)

throughout the state, so you might even see an infant walrus, beluga whale or other sea mammal. (301 Railway Ave., Seward)

THE MUSK OX FARM (PALMER) Located on a Colony farm in Palmer, this domesticated musk ox operation began in 1964. Part of the farm’s animal husbandry involves collecting the hair that’s shed from musk ox undercoats each spring. The fibers, called qiviut, are said to be softer than cashmere and warmer than wool when spun into yarn, which you can purchase in the farm’s gift shop. You can only get as close as the fences allow, but you’ll have no problem seeing the handful of new calves born each spring. (12850 E. Archie Road, Palmer)

REINDEER FARM (PALMER) You can pet and feed the roughly 150 reindeer at this farm in Palmer — they’re friendly and will eat grain pellets out of your hand. Fun fact: These same reindeer participate in the annual Running of the Reindeer at the Anchorage Rondy festival each February (think running of the bulls, but with reindeer in downtown Anchorage). (5561 S. Bodenburg Loop Road, Palmer)

ROBERT G. WHITE LARGE ANIMAL RESEARCH STATION

(FAIRBANKS)

Bordering the University of Alaska Fairbanks, this research station is mostly devoted to studying musk oxen, which gives students at the university experience maintaining colonies of large animals. You don’t have to be a student to meet their musk oxen (and the reindeer and cattle that also live there) — LARS has regularly scheduled open hours in the summer and pre-arranged tours in the winter for visitors to stop by. (2220 Yankovich Road, Fairbanks)

Bald eagles, Alaska’s largest resident bird of prey with a wing span of up to 7.5 feet, are a frequent sight in the Last Frontier. Some towns, like Unalaska/Dutch Harbor, are practically overrun with this national emblem. It’s estimated that a whopping 30,000 bald eagles are in Alaska.

BALD EAGLES

ALASKA SEALIFE CENTER (SEWARD) © Glenn Aronwits

The only coldwater marine-science facility in the Western Hemisphere, the SeaLife Center in Seward is where to go if you want to see Steller sea lions, seals, puffins and other coastal birds, salmon, octopus, crabs, starfish and sea urchins. A big part of the SeaLife Center’s mission is rehabilitating injured or abandoned animals from

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GOT 1, 2 OR 3 DAYS TO EXPLORE? HERE ARE SOME FUN ITINERARIES By M I K E C A M P B E L L

ometimes, Alaska visitors find themselves anchored down in Anchorage, as songwriter Michelle Shocked once sang, with days of free time. What to do? Options are virtually endless, but here are a few ideas, organized by how much time you have.

1 DAY BIG TRIPLE SOUTH OF ANCHORAGE Drive south on the Seward Highway to Alyeska Resort in Girdwood. From the lodge, head up the Alyeska North Face Trail, a scenic hike for those used to uphill marches. The real payoff comes at the top, where the Bore Tide Deli & Bar has soda for the kids and beer for parents, plus awesome chili, fries and sandwiches. Even better, instead of trudging back, you can take a free ride on the tram and take in amazing views of Turnagain Arm. June is the best time — or late May after the snow melts — to avoid the biting flies that arrive in July. If you’d rather ride both up and down, consider the $45 dine-andride special that includes $20 in food or beverages at the Bore Tide. The quick ride down means you’ll have plenty of time and daylight left. Continue south on the Seward Highway another 11 miles to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, an ideal stop for kids, even kids with tired legs after hiking up Alyeska. All kinds of Alaska critters wander around the park: wood bison, bears, moose, elk, musk ox, foxes, caribou and lynx. Afterward, take the cutoff to Whittier just down the highway and follow the signs to the Portage Glacier cruise. This is the best way to get a peek at the receding Portage Glacier, which in the age of global warming is no longer visible from the visitor center. The 80-foot M/V Ptarmigan has several sailings each day and gets close to the glacier while a narrator adds details

2 DAYS LIVING LARGE IN THE VALLEY Looking to pack a potpourri of pleasure into a day or two near Anchorage? Head north to Mat-Su Borough. There you can see glacier ice thousands of years old. Twenty-eight-mile-long Knik Glacier is perched on the edge of the Chugach Mountains, and perhaps the best way to see it is with a guided tour, such as those offered by Knik Glacier Tours, a company that’s been showing off Alaska ice for a quartercentury. With three-hour tours, you need not devote your entire day to the glacier’s icy vistas. After a drive in a four-wheel-drive vehicle operated 24

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The North Face Trail begins near the Alyeska Resort hotel and climbs about 2,000 feet in 2.2 miles. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

by the tour company and an upriver journey in a jetboat (about 8 miles total), you’ll arrive at the sprawling glacier and feel the air temperature dip. Gaze up the face of a glacier hundreds of feet tall. Your spectacular photos will impress friends back home, and you can boast that you walked in the footsteps of Captain James Kirk and Doc McCoy of “Star Trek.” About three decades ago, Paramount Pictures used Knik Glacier to film portions of “Star Trek VI: The Undiscovered Country.” In it, Kirk and McCoy were rescued from the Klingon ice planet Rura Penthe. Lucky for you, no rescues should be necessary. With a summit at 900 feet, the glacial erratic Bodenburg Butte (often simply called The Butte) near Palmer doesn’t sound like much. But few hikes deliver as much bang for the buck — easy access and a stunning 360-degree view of the floodplain created by the Matanuska and Knik rivers. You can’t get a much better view of the Mat-Su Valley sentinels — 6,119 foot-Matanuska Peak to the east and 6,398-foot Pioneer Peak to the south, with icy Knik Glacier in between. There are two trailheads. The more defined and moderate path is a borough-maintained route on the north side that features wooden steps to ease your climb. There’s also an unmaintained track up the south side. A hike up either side can take as little as 30 minutes or as long as two hours, depending on your fitness and the conditions. Be forewarned that either side can be slippery when wet. Good, sturdy hiking shoes or boots help. Keep in mind, too, the top of the Butte is often extremely windy. Bring a jacket, even if the daytime temperature is expected to exceed 60 degrees. Located on a Colony farm in Palmer, the Musk Ox Farm began operating in 1964. The long-haired musk ox is also known as oomingmak, or “the bearded one,” and produce what many consider the finest and warmest wool in the world. For a small fee, visitors walk past the animals’ fenced-in areas and learn the history and biology of these Paleolithic ruminants from the knowledgeable staff. There are about 80 animals. Among them are the friendly Cedar, Ellie and Elim.

Each spring, farm workers tend to the new calves and collect hair shed from the musk ox undercoats. Those fibers, called qiviut, are considered softer than cashmere and warmer than wool when spun into yarn, which you can purchase in the farm’s gift shop or in the downtown Anchorage shop, Oomingmak, an Alaska cooperative owned by hundreds of Alaska Native women who knit each item by hand in a signature pattern of their village. Visitors can only get as close as the fences allow, but you’ll have no problem seeing the handful of new calves born each spring. If you have spare time after that, head to the funky and fun town of Talkeetna, where you can catch a flightseeing tour around the flanks of North America’s tallest peak — and sample tasty food and local beer after you’re done.

3 DAYS KACHEMAK CORNUCOPIA If you drive, getting from Anchorage to Homer on the shore of Kachemak Bay takes about five hours (it’s less than an hour if you’re flying). Once there, many options await in this scenic town with a Bohemian vibe. From Homer Spit, dozens of sport fishing boats take anglers out for a day of halibut fishing. Most passengers take home their two-fish limit. With halibut fillets typically costing more than $20 a pound at your grocer’s seafood counter, a day of fishing for more than $200 can be quite reasonable. Once back on land, wander the iconic Homer Spit, the 4 1/2-mile wisp of land that juts into the bay, while you wait for your halibut to be vacuum-packed. The Spit houses the community’s boat harbor, barge terminal, large vessel dock, charter fishing operations, adventure outfits, trinket stores, art shops, seasonal restaurants, million-dollar condominiums and Homer’s most upscale hotel. Visitors come from all over the world for the unobstructed views of two mountain ranges, four volcanoes and miles and miles of open sea. They buy fish and chips, ulus, hoodies and lattes. And they belly up to one of Alaska’s most famous bars, the Salty Dawg Saloon, which is housed in a log cabin that has served — over the last century — as a coal company office, railroad station, grocery store, residence and post office. Even if you’re not terribly hungry, stop at the tiny Little Mermaid restaurant or you’ll regret it. Its fresh seafood, local produce and handtossed pizzas are all memorable. If you don’t have to wait before being seated, consider yourself blessed. At 5 p.m. that evening, or the next day, take the 29-passenger Danny J Ferry ($41) across the bay to Halibut Cove and sample another delicious dinner at The Saltry Restaurant before making the return trip at 9 p.m. Expect fine dining on locally grown or caught food. Coastal Living website author Ann Hood called it “the best meal of my life. “I have only four brief hours to eat halibut ceviche and oysters and shrimp poke, to wash it down with a Kung Fu Girl Riesling or King Estate Pinot Gris. ... There is no place in the world with food this artful, this good, with this view. As I board the Danny J, full and happy and clutching my jar of pickled salmon, I know one thing for sure. I will do it again someday.” To fill in any free time, consider: • The Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies. • Bishop’s Beach Park, where you and the kids can make all sorts of intertidal discoveries in tide pools. • Homer Farmers Market. Smaller, friendlier and funkier than big markets in Anchorage and Fairbanks. Open Wednesdays and Saturdays. • Two Sisters Bakery: This Homer mainstay located off Bishop’s Beach makes killer pastries. Make it your last stop on the way out of

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town and stock up on savory pastries, Danishes and a strong cup of fair trade, organic coffee for the road.

5 DAYS KINGS AND CORN Visitors with gobs of money who want an unforgettable experience guaranteed to wow their friends might sample a package dubbed “Kings and Corn” by the Tordrillo Mountain Lodge. The combo pairs late-season heli-skiing with fishing for king salmon, an impressive Alaska double few can claim to have pulled off. One big reason: a $12,500 price tag that includes a stay at the company’s lodge on the Talachulitna River. “It’s kind of a gem, a little secret we’ve had for years,” said Melanie Roth, the lodge’s director of marketing. “But now people are kind of aware of it, we’ve been doing it so long.” If photos of hoisting a king salmon and carving turns in the Tordrillo Mountains aren’t impressive enough, there’s this: Among the lodge’s guides are former Olympic gold medal downhill champion Tommy Moe and Dave Hahn, who, according to Outside Magazine, has reached the summit of Everest 15 times — the most of any nonSherpa climber. A recent Luxury magazine review said that during the mid-June to early July season, there’s “plenty of daylight for waterskiing, stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking around Judd Lake. Apres-ski, relax lakeside in a hot tub with margaritas made with 2,000-year-old glacier ice while a chef makes dinner and selections are pulled from a 500-bottle wine cellar.” This time of year, many Alaskans — and more than a few visitors — will be elbow to elbow, combat fishing in various Southcentral waterways. Not you.

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BIGGEST OF THE BIG: WRANGELLST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK AND KENNECOTT MINES

Delve into Alaska’s mining history at Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark in WrangellSt. Elias National Park and Preserve. NPS PHOTO

By B A I L E Y B E R G

rangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is big. At 13.2 million acres, it’s the largest national park in the United States and covers roughly the same area as the next two biggest national parks combined (Denali and Gates of the Arctic, both also in Alaska). It’s difficult not to talk about the area in superlatives, as that sheer amount of acreage holds a lot: four major mountain ranges; the second- and third-highest peaks on the continent; nine of the 16 highest peaks in the U.S.; incredibly diverse wildlife; and the nation’s largest glacial system. For true adventure seekers and wilderness lovers, the park acts as a kind of El Dorado, a place rife with opportunities to play — from backpacking, fishing and camping to raft ing, hiking and climbing — and see the wilderness in all its glory.

HOW TO GET THERE Only two roads, both dirt, lead into the park: McCarthy Road and Nabesna Road. Of the two, the 60-mile-long McCarthy Road is the one

far more traveled. You’ll know when the Edgerton Highway merges with McCarthy Road in Chitina because it will go from pavement to dirt road atop what was once a railroad track. It’s slow going, with blind corners and potholes, but the scenery makes up for it: spectacular views of distant mountains, the Copper River raging below and the impressive Kuskulana River Bridge, which spans a vertigo-inducing gorge. The road ends at the Kennicott River; from there, you cross the river on a footbridge and can either shuttle or walk the half-mile to McCarthy or 4.5 miles to Kennicott. Alternatively, Copper Valley Air offers biweekly flights from Anchorage and Gulkana to McCarthy (907-822-4200, coppervalleyairservice.com). Wrangell Mountain Air does three daily flights from Chitina into the park (800-478-1160, wrangellmountainair.com).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO KENNECOTT MINES Within 35 years, the Kennecott Mines went from being an established mining camp — pumping out copper around the clock — to a ghost town. For decades, the mill sat empty and abandoned, until 1998, when the National Park Service purchased the mill, power

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plant and many other camp buildings from private owners and began restoring them. You can take a tour of the mill, a 14-story behemoth that was used to process ore through a multistage process. The tour is worth it for the glaciers and mountain view from the top floors and the opportunity to check out the massive, nearly 100-year-old machinery. There’s also oodles of information about the history of the mines and the people that once worked there at the Kennecott Visitor Center.

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The concentration mill building is the centerpiece of the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

MCCARTHY-KENNICOTT HISTORICAL MUSEUM While it could be argued that both towns are museums in and of themselves, the actual museum, located in what was once a railway depot, does a good job of showing the history from the town’s inception in the late 1800s to today. You can see old photographs, artifacts, a miniature model of historic McCarthy and a diorama of the Bonanza Mine.

ROOT GLACIER TRAIL Past all the wagon-red buildings of the mining camp on the far end of town is the start of the Root Glacier Trail. It’s an easy 4-mile roundtrip jaunt out to one of Alaska’s most accessible glaciers. Even from a distance, you can look for the blue pools and streams speckled across the top of the glacier and admire the nearby peaks. If you intend to walk on the ice, wear appropriate footwear and take appropriate safety measures.

GUIDED WILDERNESS ADVENTURES Companies like Kennicott Wilderness Guides, McCarthy River Tours & Outfitters and St. Elias Alpine Guides offer hiking, ice climbing, packrafting and multiday trips through the spruce forests, alpine tundra, glacier fields and canyons of the park.

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America’s Largest National Park

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A VISITOR’S GUIDE TO LEGAL MARIJUANA IN ALASKA

Talk with budtenders at cannabis retail shops around the state about local marijuana varieties. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

By L A U R E L A N D R E W S

his summer will mark Alaska’s fourth tourist season with cannabis shops up and running. For travelers heading to the state, here’s what to expect.

WHAT YOU CAN DO Anyone 21 or older can buy and carry up

to an ounce of marijuana. You can give and receive up to an ounce for free. But the state still has some places where marijuana is not allowed — like national parks and some private property.

THE LOWDOWN ON RETAIL SHOPS Cannabis stores have opened in many Alaska communities, from Fairbanks to Anchorage, Juneau and Sitka. Bring your ID, because Alaska law requires businesses to check it. Some check it twice. Each shop is a little different, but marijuana

(907)375-WEED

will be behind the counter and a budtender can help you pick out what you want. You can smell and look at the product but not touch it. Alaska has seen a proliferation of products, so you can choose from edibles to capsules, to topicals, to regular old flower, which remains a best-seller for stores. Most shops have their current menus online — prices for grams generally range from $10 to $20. It’s cash only. Some stores have ATMs. Budtenders like tips. The state doesn’t track customer information, but some shops have an in-

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Marijuana has intoxicating effects and may be habit forming and addictive. Marijuana impairs concentration, coordination, and judgment. Do not operate a vehicle or machinery under its influence. There are health risks associated with consumption of marijuana. For use only by adults twenty-one and older. Keep out of the reach of children. AMCO License No. 10236

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Located downtown Anchorage next to Van’s Dive Bar at 1005 E. 5th Ave MONDAY TO SUNDAY 9 AM – 9 PM

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house point of sale system with customer appreciation benefits, and those ask for your name and other information.

MARIJUANA AND DRIVING No state laws say you have to transport marijuana in a certain way in your vehicle. In Anchorage, the law says you must carry marijuana in the trunk of your car. If your car has no trunk (like a hatchback), it needs to be behind the last row of seats. Under city law, it’s supposed to be in a sealed container that hasn’t been opened. If you get stoned and drive, you could get a DUI. Law enforcement goes by standard field sobriety tests to decide whether a person is considered impaired, along with other observations and evidence, Alaska State Troopers and Anchorage Police Department said. If drug impairment is suspected, a drug recognition officer will be called to conduct further evaluation, according to Anchorage police.

TRAVELING BY PLANE Under federal law, pilots who knowingly carry marijuana on a flight risk losing their certification. Alaska Airlines is clear that marijuana is not allowed on board, in carryon or checked luggage. Smaller airlines have a similar policy. But for years, airport police have been letting small amounts of marijuana through security checkpoints in Anchorage and Fairbanks. Airport officers enforce state law, under which a person can possess up to an ounce of cannabis. Transportation Security Administration employees will call police, who then conduct a field interview and make a record of the contact. In most cases, police then allow travelers to continue through the checkpoint with cannabis. The Juneau Police Department is taking a hands-off approach, leaving it up to the discretion of TSA. They won’t confiscate your marijuana, JPD Lt. David Campbell said, but TSA may require you to leave it behind. And, since cannabis remains illegal federally, federal law enforcement can request records from local police and consider filing charges. So if you fly with marijuana, local police may not stop you, but you’re still taking a risk.

ALASKA FERRY SYSTEM AND CRUISE SHIPS The U.S. Coast Guard is the law enforcement entity on federal waterways, including those traversed by Alaska’s ferries and cruise lines. “Marijuana use is illegal federally,” said Brian Dykens, a spokesman for the Coast Guard in Alaska. “As a federal law enforcement agency, the Coast Guard can 30

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seize marijuana on federal waterways, issue a civil penalty, and/or pursue criminal action under federal law.” But the Alaska Marine Highway System, including popular Southeast ferry routes, isn’t actively seeking out people who are carrying marijuana, according to Shannon McCarthy, spokeswoman for the Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities. Usually, if crew members discover someone with less than an ounce of marijuana, the person is told to put it away, McCarthy wrote. More than 1 ounce would be reported to law enforcement. For Holland America cruises, ships comply with federal law and don’t allow marijuana on board, said Ralph Samuels, vice president of government and community relations at cruise ship operator Holland America Group. Holland America notifies people of what’s not allowed on the ship after they book a cruise, Samuels said. And marijuana shops in Juneau are required to have signage telling customers they aren’t allowed to take the product on a ship or plane. When passengers board the cruise ship, much like at an airport, they go through a metal detector and their bags go through an X-ray machine.

SMOKING IN PUBLIC Public consumption isn’t allowed under Alaska law. You can be fined up to $100 if police bust you. Like in other states, tourists face a conundrum: If you can’t smoke in public, but don’t have a home to return to, where can you legally smoke pot? Alaska is the first state to solve this conundrum with statewide regulations. In December 2018, the state Marijuana Control Board voted to allow existing marijuana shops to set up areas where people can use cannabis purchased at their store. In January 2020, the board approved two shops, one in Fairbanks and one in Ketchikan, to create “on-site consumption” areas. The public consumption fine is a citation — akin to a traffic ticket — and not a criminal charge. In Anchorage, 10 public consumption citations were issued in 2019, according to Anchorage police.

HOTELS Hotel rooms are considered private property and local rules in any given city would determine what’s allowed, according to Glen Klinkhart, interim director of the state’s Alcohol and Marijuana Control Office. Many hotels have no-smoking policies, so smoking marijuana would be off-limits. Your best bet is to ask your Airbnb host or a staff member at your hotel or other lodging.

NATIONAL PARKS Alaska is home to 54 million acres of federal parks and preserves. But carrying and using marijuana on these massive swaths of federal land is not allowed. If you’re caught with marijuana, you could face a federal citation, which is typically a misdemeanor, said Peter Christian, spokesman for the National Park Service. In 2019, there was just one citation for marijuana possession, within Denali National Park and Preserve, Christian said. Cannabis possession is also prohibited on other federal lands — including national wildlife refuges, and Bureau of Land Management and national forest lands, Christian said.

MEDICAL MARIJUANA If you have a medical card, it won’t go far at most marijuana shops. Alaska was one of the first states to legalize medical marijuana in 1998, but its rules don’t allow for dispensaries. In 2014, when voters legalized recreational marijuana, a separate medical system was not developed, to the chagrin of some medical users. Regulators feared that if a dual system were created, medical prices and rules would undercut the regular commercial market. So far, no state rules explicitly ban discounts to medical cardholders, but generally, shops aren’t offering these discounts. It’s seen as a legal gray area, partially because shops aren’t allowed to provide medical advice to customers. More clarification from the state will likely be needed on the issue.

MARIJUANA DELIVERY SERVICES AND ON-SITE CONSUMPTION Alaska’s laws don’t allow for marijuana delivery, so you have to go to a store to get cannabis. In December 2018, the Marijuana Control Board voted to allow for “on-site consumption” where existing marijuana shops can apply for an endorsement to set up an area where customers can use cannabis purchased at their shop. Alaska is the first place with state laws regulating such spaces. In January, a Fairbanks shop and a store in Ketchikan were granted state approval. As of late February, both shops still needed the Department of Environmental Conservation’s approval and an inspection before opening, Klinkart said in an email. The Fairbanks shop also needed the City of Fairbanks’ approval. The processes could take months, Klinkart said. In Anchorage, “on-site consumption” areas are allowed — but only for edibles. Smoking marijuana in an on-site consumption area is not allowed due to the city’s indoor and workplace smoking ban.

SHOPPING FOR CANNABIS: WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT LOCAL STRAINS, EDIBLES, CONCENTRATES AND MORE

A marijuana bud is displayed for sale at a marijuana dispensary. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

By S A M A N T H A D A V E N P O R T

he cannabis industry in the 49th state has evolved in recent years, providing Alaskans and visitors with a wide array of consumption choices. From infused ice cream to concentrates and locally grown flower, there are options for first time users and daily smokers alike.

FLOWER AND PRE ROLLS In marijuana shops, customers can choose between sativa, indica and hybrid strains, all of which are known to have varied effects. Traditionally, indica strains have had a reputation for creating a more full body, relaxing effect whereas sativa strains are reputed to be more cerebral and energizing. Hybrids have traits of both. But predicting the effects of a strain is far more nuanced, and there’s far from a hard and fast rule. If you aren’t sure where to start, consult a budtender at the shop who can provide you with recommendations suited to your taste. Randy Wells is the owner of The Tufted Puffin in Seward. He said one thing he and his employees spend a lot of time educating his customers about is terpenes — the compounds that contribute aroma and flavor in plants, including cannabis, and can influence its effects. He encourages customers to ask questions to budtenders about certain terpenes in strains. “Having no idea what all the terpenes are that are in that same strain, you’re not necessarily going to get the effect you’re shopping for. If they’re looking for sleep, that doesn’t necessarily mean you want an indica,” because the dominant terpene in the strain could changes the effect it has on a user, Wells said. Kevin Schwan, co owner of Denali’s Cannabis Cache, says his store

TAKE HOME A

PIECE OF ALASKA

puts a lot of emphasis on terpene profiles, too. “There are so many great cannabis strains, and some strains that kind of outperform a lot of cannabis strains (with) high THC numbers because they have really high or good terpene numbers,” Schwan said.

FOR LOCAL STRAINS Gavin Spudwills is a budtender at Uncle Herb’s, which has locations in Anchorage and Homer. If visitors are looking to test out some local strains, he recommends Xtra Tuf, which is grown at Herb’s Garden in Anchorage. It’s an indica strain that Spudwills says has a “great, aromatic smell.” He also likes Mercy Fruit Haze, a sativa grown by Mercy Tree of Alaska, and Jolly Rancher by Ace of Spades, a CBD heavy strain. “(Mercy Fruit Haze has) a fruity taste, it’s not terribly strong. It’s a good dog walking joint,” Spudwills said. “(Jolly Rancher is) a generally nice, pain relieving, anxiety inducing strain that has a great taste to it overall.” Although it tends to test pretty high in THC, Schwan enjoys a strain by Catalyst Cannabis Co. called Rain Dance, which he says has some NAMED AMONG THE

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great aromas and terpenes. He also recommends some strains from GOOD Cannabis. “If someone is really looking for a highly energetic experience, we carry (GOOD Cannabis’) Durban Poison. Our one budtender calls it the espresso of cannabis.” Michelle Cleaver, owner of Weed Dudes in Sitka, says you have to match each person with the effects they prefer. From strains that are over 30% THC to CBD strains that tend to be lower in THC — less than 10% — she thinks new users should fall somewhere in the middle. “On the sativa side, one of our favorites is Smile, and it’s a hybrid but it’s kind of sativa oriented,” Cleaver said.

FOR NEW USERS Schwan has a saying for those who either have never smoked or haven’t in years: “Start low and go slow.” “I say to take maybe one to two puffs, and then you put it out and wait 15 minutes ... see how you feel and if you want any more,” Schwan said. “If it’s a first time user, I always go with some pretty low THC numbers. They can always go up from there. “We really like Rosie Creek Farms, and Rosebud is one strain in particular … it’s just really nice. It’s actually a staff pick for us.” For newbies, Spudwills recommends CBD prerolls; he says they have a great taste, aren’t “crazy stoney” and “can ease you into what cannabis has to offer.” “It won’t shock your system and you won’t get too high or anything like that and scare yourself away from a good experience,” Spudwills said. Cleaver notes that top shelf items may be a bit strong for first time users; she recommends Pineapple Express. “(It’s) a daytime weed … so they can go out and have fun with their activities and not be sucked into the couch,” Cleaver said.

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FOR THE STRONG STUFF David Parker, owner of Fat Tops in Soldotna, carries several high potency THC strains that are cultivated from Green Go LLC in Anchorage. He notes that Cupcake and Gas Monkey are flower options for visitors looking for a stronger choice of cannabis. “They consistently test over 30% THC, so it is some of the strongest marijuana grown in the world,” Parker said. “(The) Cupcake strain tested at 37.33 and (the) Gas Monkey strain tested at 37.69.” If you prefer a more in the couch type of weed, Cleaver likes Gorilla Glue, which can be found statewide. “It’s a sticky, stoney, fun high kind of weed,” Cleaver said.

EDIBLES From gummy candies to mints, edible options are available in single servings all the way up to 10 packs. Edibles are a way for visitors to consume cannabis that’s smoke free.

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Wells and Cleaver both note the popularity of edibles is due to their set dosage. Each edible is 5 milligrams per dose and 50 milligrams per package. Parker says some options are available on the market for 2.5 milligram edibles. Wells’ store carries a variety of edibles, including items from Lady Gray Medibles, a company based on the Kenai Peninsula. Lady Gray creates chocolates, cookies, ice cream, nectar, spreads and more. You can find their products throughout stores in the state, including The 420 in Petersburg, Pipe & Leaf in Fairbanks, Weed Dudes in Sitka and numerous shops in Anchorage. Cleaver says edibles can take an hour, sometimes two to feel the full effects. Schwan says it can take as long as 2 1/2 hours, depending on the person. “It stays with you for a very long time, six to eight hours, which is more than, say, if you’re just smoking off a pipe, where that effect may only last an hour,” Cleaver said. Parker carries gummies and chews from GOOD Cannabis and Einstein Labs AK, two Alaska marijuana manufacturers that have products across the state. Capsules and topicals are also options. “(Edibles are not) a real strong high, but it’s definitely effective to a person who does not smoke,” Parker said.

CONCENTRATES Marijuana concentrates — highly potent products that have a greater proportion of terpenes and cannabinoids — are an option for more avid marijuana users. Cleaver’s store and many others carry products like shatter and crumble, but the most popular concentrate for travelers is vape cartridges. “We sell a lot of vape cartridges, which are those concentrates,” Cleaver said. Convenience is a big factor. “It’s easy, but not for your serious concentrate person. Cartridges are an easy way to do it, where you can bring it along. It’s not something that looks really funny, and when you smoke it, it doesn’t smell very bad.” Spudwills agrees. “I have definitely seen a trend of the older crowd, I’d say the 50 plus, getting the disposable pens,” Spudwills said. “Those are generally cheap, they’re nice and portable and they’re pretty nondescript.”

MARIJUANA LINGO CANNABINOIDS: Naturally occurring chemical compounds found in hemp and cannabis, such as CBD and THC. CBD: Cannabidiol. A non intoxicating compound found in cannabis and hemp. CBD is used widely in products aimed at relieving pain or anxiety. CONCENTRATES: Products made from cannabis that have been processed to keep specific plant compounds (such as THC or terpenes). CRUMBLE: A form of concentrate that has a crumbling, honeycomb like consistency.

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Cannabis edibles called Boingos being produced at a local bakery. Each gummy-like serving has 5mg of THC. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

FLOWER: The smokeable part of a cannabis plant. HYBRID: A plant that is bred to inherit characteristics of sativa and indica strains. INDICA: A cannabis plant distinguishable by its broad leaves and short size. Indica strains traditionally have had a reputation for creating a more full body, relaxing effect. SATIVA: A cannabis plant distinguishable by its narrow leaves and tall height. Sativa strains have traditionally had a reputation for creating a more cerebral, energizing effect. TERPENES: Compounds that cause flavors and aroma in cannabis and other plants, and which can influence the effects of cannabis by how they interact with cannabinoids. Some common terpenes: myrcene (herbal, also found in lemongrass, hops, eucalyptus), limonene (also found in citrus peel), linalool (a terpene found in lavender and mint plants) and pinene (familiar from the scent of pine needles). THC: Tetrahydrocannabinol. The main psychoactive compound in marijuana that gives the high sensation. PRE ROLL: A joint. EDIBLES: Food infused with marijuana. SHATTER: A cannabis extract and form of concentrate that has a snap and pull type of consistency.

HIKES NEAR ANCHORAGE, NO MATTER HOW MUCH TIME YOU HAVE By B A I L E Y B E R G

t’s no secret that hiking opportunities in Alaska are worldclass. But while the state is geographically massive, it doesn’t mean all the good stuff is remote — even Anchorage, the largest city, has quick and convenient access to incredible nature. Here are just a few hikes, with varying degrees of length and difficulty, that epitomize the beauty and majesty of Alaska, all within a 30-minute drive of downtown Anchorage.

IF YOU HAVE 3-4 HOURS FLATTOP MOUNTAIN: Easily the most climbed mountain in Alaska, Flattop is a perennial favorite among locals and visitors alike thanks to its well-maintained trail and views encompassing all of Anchorage (and stretching as far as Denali on a clear day). While the entire mountain stands at 3,510 feet, you’ll only ascend the final 1,280 over the course of a mile and a half. The mountain’s popularity has its pros and cons. On one hand, you don’t need a car to get there — simply take the Flattop Mountain Shuttle ($23 round-trip or $21 for four or more people; runs May 15 to Sept. 15 at 12:30 p.m.;

A man walking on the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail at Point Woronzof is silhouetted against Mount Susitna. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

907-279-3334). It departs from downtown and arrives at the Glen Alps Trailhead within 30 minutes. The downside is that it’s easily the most crowded trail in Anchorage, so you may be jockeying for space with other visitors and their dogs. The trail becomes steep near the summit and the last 300 or so feet call for some rocky scrambling that might be a little scary for novice hikers. TONY KNOWLES COASTAL TRAIL: If you’re looking for a walk that can be done with coffee in hand, this is it. Starting in downtown Anchorage, this paved 11-mile trail hugs the coast all the way to its terminus in Kincaid Park. It’s a leisurely path (save for a daunting final half-mile that rises steeply) that links up with several sightseeing spots, including Westchester Lagoon, Earthquake Park and Point Woronzof. Aside from the occasional urban moose, there isn’t much possibility of animal sightings until you reach Kincaid Park (unless you count the metal birds blasting off at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport), but the land and cityscapes are lovely.

IF YOU HAVE A HALF-DAY RABBIT LAKE: Eight and a half miles out and back, it’s a gorgeous hike the whole way, but the big payoff comes right at the end with views of Rabbit Lake in the shadows of the mighty Suicide Peaks. An easy hike with pretty minimal elevation gain, the first half cuts through brush as it runs parallel to the Flattop ridgeline before emerging into

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A runner strides down into Raven Creek valley during the Crow Pass Crossing race. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

an open valley for the final couple of miles. Pack in a picnic and spend some time soaking in the lakeside views before heading back. Keep an eye out for blueberries in late summer! EAGLE AND SYMPHONY LAKES: Just northeast of Anchorage near Eagle River, this 12-mile round-trip hike is outrageously photogenic from start to finish. Even though it’s a longer hike, the bulk of the trail is level, making it easy to breeze through. It’s not until the end when you reach a boulder field where you really need to watch your step (this part can be challenging for small kids and dogs). But the finale, including the two lakes — one mint green, the other a deep aquamarine — separated by a single moraine, and the towering peaks on all sides, makes the effort worth it.

FULL DAY OR WANT TO DO AN OVERNIGHT TRIP WILLIWAW LAKES: Tucked in Chugach State Park, this string of nine alpine lakes allows for the most customizable itinerary. You could do a big loop, starting at the Prospect Heights Trailhead parking lot and coming back via the Campbell Creek Canyon Trail and Near Point. You could take it easy, going down Powerline Pass to Middle Fork to the Williwaw Lakes Trail, following the creek through the valley as

long as you care to before turning around. Or, if you start at the Glen Alps Trailhead, you could go up and over via the “football field” (also called the “ballfield”) for a workout that’ll make your legs burn but offers the most awe-inspiring views of the valley. Whichever way you choose, you’ll almost certainly see moose, Dall sheep and various waterfowl. CROW PASS: If you travel light, move quickly and start early, you can cover the 21-mile trail in a single day. Most people choose to break it up over two days, though. Starting in Girdwood, the trail passes glaciers, waterfalls, mine ruins and a Forest Service cabin, then winds through a valley to the Eagle River before terminating at the Eagle River Nature Center. The river crossing can be dangerous (the depth of its frigid waters can reach your belly button, though it’s lower earlier in the morning, and the current is swift), so it’s not recommended for a solo trek. Your odds of seeing wild animals — ranging from arctic ground squirrels, marmots and Dall sheep to bears and moose — are good, considering the trail isn’t as trafficked as others in the Chugach. Make sure to arrange for transport back to town from the end of the trail in Eagle River, though: The hike back to Girdwood is uphill.

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Cyclists pause along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail to watch cargo planes take off from Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport at Point Woronzof. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

TACKLE ANCHORAGE’S TERRIFIC CITY TRAIL SYSTEM By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

ne of the best ways to appreciate Anchorage’s unique access to natural spaces is to set out on foot or by bike and tackle the city’s incredible network of trails. Anchorage boasts more than 120 miles of paved bike and multi-use trails, not to mention 130 miles of plowed winter walkways, 105 miles of maintained ski trails and 87 miles of non-paved hiking trails — and that’s just within the municipality! Many trails take you farther and beyond city lines, connecting to the mountainous Chugach State Park, where you can wander high into the alpine tundra

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to access some 495,000 acres of jaw-dropping scenery. Within town limits, Anchorage’s award-winning trail system meanders along the stunning city coastline, follows pretty creeks and streams through woodsy forested area and ducks via tunnels beneath busy roadways. It’s a comprehensive system that active commuters capitalize on year-round, and is an ideal entrée for visitors who want a taste of life in a city known for its alluring proximity to nature. The crown jewel of the system is the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, a recreational conduit that in warmer months teems with walkers, bicyclists, runners, in-line skaters and more. The trail stretches nearly 11 miles from one of downtown’s most historic neighborhoods on Second Avenue to the multi-use chalet at Kincaid Park. Its mostly level terrain means it’s incredibly accessible, popular with all ages

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and families. Because there are multiple locations throughout where you can park and access this lovely route, it’s a customizable trail to whatever experience you’re seeking – from a short stroll to a multi-hour outing. Westchester Lagoon is a perfect place to start your Coastal Trail jaunt. Just 1.6 miles from the trail’s downtown beginning, the lagoon has plenty of parking. The park itself is worth a visit. It offers stunning views of the Chugach Mountains, glittering stretches of serene water, picnic tables and benches for contemplative breaks and a lively playground for the kids. Birders will appreciate the flocks of waterfowl, migrating shorebirds, mallards, grebes, swallows and more. In the summer, the pond makes for a pretty paddle, and there are typically flotation devices on hand. In the winter, the iced-over lagoon is a popular skating spot. From Westchester, you can travel 9 miles on the Coastal Trail to Kincaid Park, or access the eastbound 4-mile-long Chester Creek Trail. The Chester Creek Trail follows its namesake waterway, and passes by Valley of the Moon Park, another park worth a visit. It features a sprawling playground, picnic areas and huge grass fields. Chester Creek Trail ends at Goose Lake Park, near the University District. If you’re not ready for your walk to end, follow the 3-mile paved trail surrounding this scenic lake. On a sunny day, this popular swimming spot makes for a respite from the high Alaska sunshine. For-rent paddleboats provide opportunities for fun and exercise, and closer viewing of loons, Canada geese, mew and herring gulls, American wigeons, and a few songbirds. There is an on-site snack cafe, a playground area, and municipal life guards on duty during sunny summer days. Another popular entry point or rest stop along the Coastal Trail en route to its Kincaid terminus is Earthquake Park. Famous for the long-gone houses that slid 38

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into the sea with the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake, the park today is a modest lot abutting the Coastal Trail, with a few interpretive signs and a photo-op view of downtown Anchorage backdropped by the Chugach front range. On clear days, you may even see Denali on the northern horizon. If you want to try biking the trail system, multiple downtown vendors rent bikes all year round. Rates and lengths of rentals vary from hourly to by the day or even the week. Downtown Bicycle Rental, Sales and Repair (333 W. Fourth Ave.; 907-279-5293) and Alaska Pablo’s Bicycle Rentals (415 L St.; 907-277-2453) are two options to check out. DON’T FORGET: When using Anchorage’s trail system, it’s important to remember some basic rules around safety and courtesy. The municipality reminds users that trails are usually multi-use and not intended for racing, so people should be aware of their surroundings, travel at safe speeds and never take up more than half the trail, leaving space for other users. Keep right, except to pass. Listen for others upon approach; it’s common for bicyclists and others to have bells on, or to verbally warn those ahead of their approach by saying things like, “On your left!” Pets must be leashed and the law requires any animal or human litter be picked up and disposed of. Even so, keep an eye out for meandering pooches as you navigate turns and tighter corridors. Also, be aware of wildlife. Moose, bears, coyotes and other animals share city trails, and that’s especially true the farther one travels from downtown. Be alert and give wildlife plenty of room. When traveling in bear country, be mindful of making noise, traveling with one or more people whenever possible, and staying observant. ALSO OF NOTE: A perennial issue in Anchorage are homeless camps along city greenbelts, particularly in more urban areas. Daytime is the best time to access the trails, and as always, be aware of your environment and exercise caution when traveling, especially if you’re solo.

The trails at Kincaid Park. PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

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ne of the most enticing aspects of Alaska’s largest city is that it manages to feel like a small town, just busy enough to entertain, yet compact enough to easily navigate by foot. It’s an ideal scenario for curious visitors ready to explore. Of the roughly 742,000 people who live in Alaska, nearly 300,000 people call Anchorage home. The city celebrated its centennial in 2015, and its frontier-town past lingers alongside today’s modernity; downtown is full of creative art galleries and museums, hip boutiques and shops, upscale eateries and chic cocktail bars, as well as notable historical buildings and sites of significant formative events of the past. The downtown Log Cabin Visitor Information Center at the corner of F Street and Fourth Avenue is a central location for launching Anchorage explorations. Look for the squat log structure topped by foliage-fringed roof, and a quirky signpost pointing to far-flung destinations, making for an excellent photo op. Staffed year-round and especially lively in the summer, staff and volunteers can answer questions about the city and connect visitors with exciting out-of-town excursions or city tours on an open-air trolley. Next door to the visitor center sits the two-story cast concrete Historic City Hall, which first opened in 1936. It’s one example of a downtown building that survived the destructive 1964 Good Friday Earthquake.

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Other noteworthy structures include the art deco 4th Avenue Theatre, which is currently closed but still a landmark along one of downtown’s busiest roads; a handful of quaint circa-1915 cottages line Fourth Avenue and are among the city’s oldest structures, built by the first arrivals from the Lower 48; and the Alaska Railroad Anchorage Depot, built in 1942, is a Modernstyle three-story concrete building listed on the National Register of Historic Places. As you wander downtown, keep an eye out for tall interpretive signs on street corners that tell stories of Anchorage’s earliest days, paint pictures of the past’s lively characters, and point out relevant landmarks. To glimpse Anchorage’s earliest roots, visit the Oscar Anderson House at 420 M St. The museum is open from noon to 4 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, between June and August. This picture-perfect cottage, built in 1915, is among Anchorage’s oldest homes and is the only one preserved for tours. Businessman Anderson claimed to be the 18th person to arrive in Anchorage, and his widow donated the house to the city in 1976. If the Anderson home offers a glimpse of old Anchorage, then the Alaska Experience Theatre will jolt you into the mid-1960s with its Good Friday Earthquake show. Located at 333 W. Fourth Ave., the theater thrills visitors all summer with movies about the terrible magnitude 9.2 temblor that transformed Alaska in March 1964, rending streets in two, sending shorelines slithering into sea and launching fatal tsunamis in Alaska and down the West Coast. There may be renewed interest in that history after the sizable 7.1 quake that shook the Anchorage area Nov. 30, 2018. The theater’s seats literally shake. For another enriching experience, visit the Anchorage Museum, at 625 C St. This is Alaska’s largest museum, an encompassing space that includes expansive and fascinating interactive displays dedicated to

Alaska’s Native people, spacious fine art galleries, compelling exhibits devoted to the town’s and state’s formative years, and an entire children’s area with handson activities. This summer, look for a special exhibit on the cultural role of tattoos in various cultures, including in Alaska. Recently remodeled, the lofty Art of the North galleries are simply stunning, punctuated by the gorgeous work of romantic landscape painter Sydney Laurence. Laurence is buried just a few blocks away at the Anchorage Memorial Park Cemetery; his recognizable headstone is topped with a sculpture of Denali, a mountain he so often painted. This cemetery was established in 1915 by President Woodrow Wilson and memorializes some of Anchorage’s most significant pioneers, from tribal leaders to former pioneers to former lawmakers. Further down the spectral spectrum is the hugely popular Ghost Tours of Anchorage,

which run Tuesday to Sunday evenings, starting in May and going all summer long. This walking tour — light on the walking, heavy on the dramatics and history — led by a suited and top-hatted man covers Anchorage’s more notorious and curious crimes, with plenty of history and architectural factoids blended in for variety ($15 per person). For those interested in shopping — whether that be finding an Alaska outfit, acquiring touristy trinkets or investing in interesting art — you don’t have to leave downtown. Make the Downtown Market and Festival your first stop. Around since 1992, with more than 300 vendors covering 2 acres of prime downtown real estate, this market has a little bit of everything, from local crafts to fresh produce to arts and antiques. Come hungry, as food vendors here cover the gamut of Alaska goodies, with tasty treats like salmon quesadillas and chowders, sweet funnel cakes and an impressive range of

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world cuisine representative of Anchorage’s growing diversity. The market is open from May 9 to Sept. 13, on Third Avenue between C and E streets. Across downtown, boutiques such as Octopus Ink sell hoodies, T-shirts and skirts with Alaskan animals like ravens and halibut. Various shops, like the Katie Sevigny Studio or the Alaska Ivory Exchange, sell Alaska memorabilia and crafts like ivory carvings, jewelry, pottery and vibrant paintings by Alaska artists. Fourth and Fifth avenues and their side streets are never short of tourist shops with reasonably priced T-shirts, hats, trinkets and more. Finally, keep an eye out for some of Anchorage’s fun summer events, such as the Solstice Festival on June 20 in Town Square. The event is hosted by the Anchorage Downtown Partnership. That organization stages many popular events throughout the summer and keeps its website updated with schedules and information.

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HERE’S WHERE TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN ARTS AND CULTURE IN ANCHORAGE By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

Visit the Alaska Native Heritag Center, a renowned cultural center and museum in Anchorage, to understand more about Alaska’s indigenous people. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

hether you’re an art aficionado, a hard-core history buff, or one of those travelers toting an extra carry-on for treasures and trinkets, Anchorage has you covered. For many, a catch-all cultural immersion begins at the crown jewel of Alaska’s arts scene, the Anchorage Museum (907929-9200), located downtown at 625 C St. In recent years, the museum has grown and modernized. Galleries devoted to Alaska Native arts and culture stunningly showcase Alaska’s first people. You’ll find delicate but durable woven grass baskets, clothing made of animal skins and furs, and intricate bead work dating to long-ago times. The museum’s relatively new Art of the North exhibit showcases scenic Alaska paintings in stunning gallery bays, including pieces by Alaska’s most-loved romantic landscape painter, Sydney Laurence. The recently remodeled Alaska Exhibition uses stunning visuals and inventive technology to convey the history and ingenuity that formed

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today’s Alaska. Rotating exhibits running during the summer of 2020 include Identifying Marks, which explores and celebrates contemporary tattoo design, particularly Samoan and Japanese tattoo traditions alongside a presentation of Arctic tattooing traditions and tattoo designs by Alaska artists. The versatile museum also maintains a lively area for family classes and youth activities, a planetarium, and Muse, a restaurant headed by James Beard-nominated (and former “Top Chef” contestant) Chef Laura Cole showcasing Alaskansourced plants and proteins. Don’t miss the museum’s gift shop; it will feature items specific to rotating exhibits and always has a collection of beautiful jewelry, illustrative texts, and other work by Indigenous artists. The Anchorage Museum is open year-round. If you are particularly interested in Alaska’s first people, venture to the north side of town to the venerable Alaska Native Heritage Center. This indoor and outdoor complex celebrates and educates visitors about the unique and incredible legacy of Alaska Natives. The center covers some 26 acres, located northwest of the Glenn Highway and Muldoon Road. Many visitors will be surprised by the broad range of Native cultures and traditions, and the Heritage Center is an extraordinary chance to see it all in one place. The Welcome House celebrates contemporary Native traditions, while the recreated village sites on the property offer a glimpse of more traditional ways of life and are set up for visitors to explore. The Heritage Center is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., mid-May to midSeptember. The Anchorage Museum and the Heritage Center are the two biggies in town, but are complemented by other cultural centers that address both broad and specific interests. The 1964 Good Friday Earthquake changed Alaska, and visitors may have a renewed

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interest in the state’s unique geology after the well-publicized 7.0 quake that struck Nov. 30, 2018. The Alaska Experience Theatre is an ongoing and experiential show dedicated to the historic 1964 event. Seats literally shake as moviegoers absorb this intense theatrical experience. Also downtown is the Fraternal Order of the Alaska State Troopers Alaska Law Enforcement Museum (245 W. Fift h Ave., Suite 113). Admission is free, and the museum is open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. weekdays and noon to 4 p.m. Saturdays. This niche museum houses the state’s only collection of historical law enforcement memorabilia, including an authentically restored 1952 Hudson Hornet automobile. The troopers museum also sports antique radios, handcuffs and leg irons, early wiretapping equipment, old photographs and documents and Alaska policing uniforms. There’s even a gift shop with Alaska State Troopers memorabilia and souvenirs Over on Anchorage’s east side is the Alaska Museum of Science and Nature (201 N. Bragaw St.), showcasing the unique science of Alaska, from prehistoric times to present. That includes the state’s unique geological, cultural and ecological history. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday to Saturday. Museums in Anchorage are sometimes found in unusual places. Case in point, the Alaska Heritage Museum located in the Wells Fargo building in Midtown (301 W. Northern Lights Blvd.). The museum highlights Wells Fargo’s history in the Alaska Gold Rush era, including an almost-to-scale stagecoach. Beyond that, this enormous private collection includes fine Alaska art, hundreds of Alaska Native artifacts and remarkable paintings by Alaska’s masters. Peek inside the lobby of Alaska’s main Wells Fargo Branch to see some stunning Sydney Laurence paintings. Near the airport is the Alaska Aviation Museum located on the shores of Lake Hood, a bustling seaplane base. Among the city’s top attractions, this original museum includes artifacts and relics of Alaska’s incredible history that will delight history and aviation buffs. There are more than two dozen vintage aircraft on display in four hangars, and also outdoor exhibits. Hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. Even as your Alaska vacation is ending, you have opportunities for arts and cultural immersion at Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport. First, on the lower level is the Alaska Sports Hall of Fame. This ever-growing exhibit celebrates Alaska athletes, sporting events and moments, paying homage to some of the state’s greats. A few names will ring bells with visitors from the Lower 48, like cross-country Olympic gold medalist Kikkan Randall, and NBA vet Mario Chalmers. Other inductees offer interesting peeks into Alaska’s unique sports culture, known for celebrating dog mushing feats, mountain climbing and other athletic advocacy. The main airport past security features a new installation; a bronze

The Alaska Aviation Museum PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

life-size statue of venerable U.S. Sen. Ted Stevens, for whom the airport is named. The statue depicts “Uncle Ted,” as Alaskans fondly called him, seated on a bench with an arm outstretched, as though midsentence. It’s a must-see for anyone interested in Alaska’s politics and history, in which Stevens played an essential role for many decades. Finally, on the airport’s top level is a display of Alaska Native art, where visitors can soak in beautiful creations unique to the 49th state before their northern adventure draws to a close.

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There’s always a place to sip an evening away in downtown Anchorage. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

egendary war correspondent Martha Gellhorn famously said, “When you want to find out how people are feeling, you always go to the pubs.” Decades later, that sentiment definitely holds true for Anchorage. The city’s lively drinking scene ranges from no-frills dives to classy cocktail bars to bustling breweries with local craft beers. A good place to start your pub crawl is downtown at the corner of G Street and Sixth Avenue, where you’ll find a nexus of bars, anchored by Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse (610 W. Sixth Ave.). Humpy’s serves lunch and dinner daily, and brunch on weekends. While it covers the gamut of pub grub — think fried halibut and king crab nuggets — Humpy’s real draw is its beer selection. With dozens of beers on tap and by the bottle, an impressive number of them locally sourced, it’s a great place to watch sports or live music and try some Alaska-made beverages. Next door to Humpy’s is one of its offspring bars, Flattop Pizza + Pool (600 W. Sixth Ave.). Another fun place to watch a game while enjoying a melty slice of pie and a pint, Flattop — named after Anchorage’s most popular mountain hike — has a laid-back, urban vibe. Across the street is Williwaw (601 F St.). Its rooftop bar opens on nice summer days and is unparalleled for its sun-soaked seating and views of Town Square. Earlier this year, a new restaurant opened on site, The Alaska Burger Co. Also within Williwaw is a moody speakeasy-style bar called Blues Central, tucked off a second-floor hallway. It features throwback, hand-crafted cocktails that are spendy but worth it for the discerning drinker. Feeling fancy? Ginger (425 W. Fifth Ave.) serves Pacific Riminfluenced cuisine and is open daily, with brunch on weekends. Enjoy a craft cocktail or espresso at the chic bar. The house martini, with its blue cheese-stuffed olives, is old-school fabulous, and any of the Champagne cocktails provide bubbly delight. Crush (328 G St.) is a lovely bistro and ideal stop for wine lovers

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as it consistently offers various flights. Sip curated vino alongside delectable snacks from an artisan menu that subtly shifts with the seasons. Its reliable small plates and delicious entrees will satisfy the most discerning foodie. Haute Quarter Grill (525 W. Fourth Ave.) is known for its upscale American cuisine, and is a fun stop on when the bar opens up its front-facing accordion walls and diners can enjoy sidewalk seating. Few downtown locations offer al fresco dining and drinking options and it’s a real treat on a sunny summer evening. If dive bars are your thing, then Darwin’s Theory and Pioneer Bar are two of Anchorage’s finest. Both have been around for decades and share some commonalities: no-frills bartenders and no shortage of loyal regulars. Darwin’s Theory (426 G St.) is a cozy pub known for its stiff drinks and free popcorn, and if you want to try some true Alaska shots, order its signature Red Hot, or try a Duck Fart, which was allegedly invented in Alaska. The Pioneer Bar (739 W. Fourth Ave.) is a mostly low-key joint that pulls in an afterwork crowd on weeknights and blooms into a lively spot come weekend nights. Pioneer also has two pool tables and a shuffleboard table. Both beloved dives are ideal for kicking back with a beer and mixing with salty locals. Mad Myrna’s (530 E. Fifth Ave.) is downtown’s lively gay club. With drag shows, cabaret performances, karaoke nights and dancing, Myrna’s is a true staple and standout. Myrna’s has made a reputation for its welcoming, inclusive and high-energy vibe. In your nightlife explorations, don’t forget Anchorage’s growing number of breweries. Like many states, Alaska has seen explosive growth in this industry, and a fair share of them are here in the state’s largest city. Downtown, 49th State Brewing Co. (717 W. Third Ave.) brews on site and has a huge bar and massive menu with a little something for everyone. Its crown jewel: an epic deck with fantastic views of the inlet on those sun-soaked Alaska summer nights. Glacier Brewhouse is also a popular spot downtown. But to enjoy the breadth of breweries, leave downtown’s confines and check out gems like King Street Brewing Co., Resolution Brewing Co. and Anchorage Brewing Co., to name a few. Some serve food, and there are often food trucks catering to the brewery crowd as well. Midnight Sun Brewing Co. is tucked in an industrial neighborhood on the south side of town. This working brewery is a great spot for visitors, with a gear shop that sports trendy hoodies and hats. Its loft restaurant features deck seating and a scrumptious menu of 46

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rotating specials and delicious standards. Finally, a true trip through Anchorage’s bar scene is incomplete without a stop at Koot’s (2435 Spenard Road). Once known as Chilkoot Charlie’s, this decades-old megabar includes three main stages, dancing, live music, comedy shows, food, pool tables, multiple bars, a spacious outdoor patio and more. If you go to Koot’s, don’t miss The Bird House, a tiny adjunct bar with slanted floors and ceilings covered in bras and dollar bills. It’s a direct rebuild of the original Bird House on Turnagain Arm that was destroyed years ago by fire and is the closest you’ll come to experiencing a quirky roadhouse without leaving Anchorage. However, if you do want that roadside bar experience, you don’t have to go too far. About 20 miles south of town on the Seward Highway is the Brown Bear Saloon. It is rustic and laid back, a gathering place for locals who live in the unincorporated communities of Indian and Rainbow. If you really like it, you can stay a while; there are economy motel rooms above the bar, cabins out back and a campground nearby.

TIPS FOR CRUISING THE BAR SCENE

tops; doing so signals you are buying a round for the house, and while it may find you fast friends, it will also burn a huge hole in your budget. And no one will find it funny if you ring the bell without following through on the implied promise of free drinks. Secondly, know that many bars don’t serve food, so if you’re looking to eat, choose your destination carefully. At the same time, it isn’t uncommon for bars to offer slow cookers of free treats, from hot dogs to soups to sloppy Joes. Typically, if there’s a slow cooker in an accessible area, it’s a free for all. Watch the regulars for cues. Third, if you play pull tabs — an Alaskasanctioned rippie gambling game — remember to tip your bartender if you win anything. And fourth, know that, like most things in Alaska, the nightlife scene is generally casual, from dress codes (there really aren’t any) to cover charges (very rare) to the general low-key ambiance that translates to a nonintimidating and accessible bar scene for the curious traveler. To really learn about the 49th state, as Martha Gellhorn said, chat up the locals; they love to brag about all the things that make the Last Frontier so special.

Any visitor should know a few things about Anchorage’s bar scene. First, never, ever ring the tempting bells that dangle above bar

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The Crow’s Nest restaurant atop of the Captain Cook Hotel in downtown Anchorage.

By M A R A S E V E R I N

(also known as chinook), you might as well get the royal treatment at The Crow’s Nest, the elegant restaurant at the top of the Hotel Captain Cook. Recent king salmon preparations include salmon belly crudo with fennel, chili flake, preserved lemon and olive or the pan-seared filet served with Jerusalem artichokes, oyster mushrooms and a watercress coulis. Food comes to the table with flair and finesse, and every dish comes with 360 degrees of stunning views. For similarly beautiful views with a more relaxed vibe, check out the 49th State Brewing Co., where you can pair your grilled salmon fillet with a lemon cream sauce and a house-brewed IPA. Bonus points for grabbing a spot at the best deck in town. For a meal with a little Latin flair, duck into the chic and trendy Tequila 61 for salmon tacos garnished with crispy fried onions, grilled pineapple and chipotle slaw. Make sure to wash them down with one of their top-notch scratch margaritas. Or get your seafood fix at the most important meal of the day and hit up Snow City Café for a Ship Creek Benedict made with smoked salmon cakes. This local favorite also offers a Kodiak Benedict with Alaska red king crab cakes. Or go all out with the Deadliest Catch Benedict, which is a sampling of each. When it comes to Alaska breakfasts? It’s go big or go home.

like to explore a new place fork first. A destination’s culinary landscape is often as interesting as its topographical one. And Alaska is no different. If you want to break the ice with a local, ask them about their favorite pizza. Or burger. Or bowl of pho. You’ll definitely hear about Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria, which might be described as one of the city’s most important social hubs. You’ll hear about the broth to noodle soup ratios at Ray’s Place vs. the trendy Phonatik in South Anchorage. You’ll hear about Tommy’s Burger Stop and Arctic Roadrunner, where the loyal locals have gotten their burger-and-fries fixes for decades. You’ll even hear spirited debates about the city’s best hot dog stands. Seriously: Reindeer sausage is not just for tourists. Alaskans eat it all the time. It’s in every grocery store and on most menus, and has a presence at most backyard cookouts. Try to catch up with the strangely omnipresent Yeti Dogs, which won 2018 Hot Dog Vendor of the Year by Mobile Cuisine Magazine. Yes, there is a prize called Hot Dog Vendor of the Year. And yes, an Alaskan won it. Landlubbers, quit reading here. For most visitors to Alaska, fork-first travel means seafood. Fish is at the top of our gourmet (and recreational) food chain. Many residents love to fish, and those who don’t make sure to befriend someone who does. How else will you keep your second freezer packed tight with salmon and halibut? However, if during your Alaska vacation you’re not lucky enough to finagle a dinner invitation from a wellstocked local, never fear. The seafood-savvy chefs at Anchorage’s best restaurants have got you covered. From sweet king crab legs to humble halibut tacos, dining out in Anchorage means eating the way many Alaskans dine in. Which is to say, beautifully.

SPECTACULAR SALMON Salmon, in Alaska, is both a luxury and a staple. Flaky, fatty (the good kind of fat) and full-flavored, salmon stands up to a wide range of preparations, including the smokiness and heat of an open flame. There are five salmon species found in Alaska but the king variety is, well, king. If you’re going to tuck into a glistening piece of Alaska king salmon

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HEAVENLY HALIBUT Considering the size of this behemoth catch (some exceed 400 pounds), Alaska halibut is prized for its delicate, buttery flavor. Its

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name derivation comes from half (holy) and butte (flat fish) and a beautifully prepared fillet can indeed be a spiritual experience. Its immaculate white flesh, firm textured and clean tasting, lends itself to a wide variety of flavor profiles. At Simon & Seafort’s Saloon & Grill, an Anchorage seafood landmark with a classic culinary sensibility, the halibut is stuffed with crab and macadamia nuts. This upscale eatery also boasts a bustling bar with beautiful views of Mount Susitna (known locally as the “Sleeping Lady”). The halibut fillet at Glacier Brewhouse is coated with basil pesto and spent grain breadcrumbs. And for a playful take on this revered fish, head to Haute Quarter Grill for halibut served with a citrus glaze and strawberry salsa. And over at Crush Wine Bistro and Cellar, they’re serving up halibut cheeks and glass noodles with a kaffir lime beurre blanc, basil, blood orange and pistachio butter. But if you want to eat halibut like a local, look for the hand-held variety. The White Spot Cafe, established in 1946, is an old-school lunch counter that serves up a lightly battered halibut sandwich revered by Anchorage residents for decades. At F Street Station, a thick slab of perfectly grilled halibut is served as a classic sandwich with lettuce, tomato and tartar sauce. (Also, make sure to check out the bar’s famous block of cheese.) And Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse serves up everpopular halibut tacos that most locals could describe from memory. Or keep your eyes peeled for the Salmon HookUp Truck, which makes appearances at festivals, breweries and food truck fairs around Anchorage throughout the summer. Owned and operated by commercial fishermen, the salmon in their sandwiches, quesadillas, tacos and kebabs is as fresh as it’s possible to get anywhere. It’s like a taste of the ocean on wheels.

THE KING OF CRAB Alaska king crab legs have such a subtle and unique flavor that I’m resistant to experimental recipes. Drawn butter and perhaps a few lemon wedges are, for me, the ideal accompaniment to this peculiarly sweet delicacy. Happily, many of Anchorage’s best restaurants share my view. Haute Quarter Grill, Sullivan’s Steakhouse, Glacier Brewhouse and Simon & Seafort’s all offer this decadent treat, by the pound, in its simplest form. And if you want your old-school dish served in an old-school dining room, head to Club Paris, which has been serving seafood and steak since the 1950s, and where you can eat your crab with a side of nostalgia and a dash of “Mad Men” flair. That said, I’m not always crabby about creative crab and I’m charmed by the king crab fritters on the appetizer menu at The Crow’s Nest. I find it hard to resist a fritter of any kind but one that’s served with a pickle juice aioli? Resistance is futile.

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Café, located in a diminutive, freestanding, historic house on Third Avenue in downtown. A bit of planning is called for to snag one of the 14 tables at this cozy culinary gem. Once there, try the Kodiak scallops and spot shrimp seared with house-made udon carbonara, sautéed squash and grape tomatoes. Marx Brothers also boasts one of the best wine cellars in the state, and will be happy to help you find the perfect sip for your scallops. For another global take on a local favorite, head to Pangea, which serves Alaskan scallops with a tangy braised kimchee, rice cake and salted bean sprouts. Or there’s the upscale but all-American version at Ginger Restaurant: mac and cheese with scallops and a truffle oil twist. This is not your grandmother’s mac and cheese.

OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY OYSTERS As my family will tell you, I love oysters. Every year, I dutifully bring my family to the Alaska State Fair. I like giant pumpkins and baby piglets as much as the next person, but secretly, I go for the oysters. When I arrive, I saddle up to the Pristine Products oyster booth and down a quick dozen of Prince William Sound’s finest while watching the pros shuck the next plateful. At the end of the day, after my family has stuffed themselves full of funnel cake and onion blossoms, I’ve been biding my time. My farewell gesture to the fair is to slurp back another dozen oysters. They’re that good. If you aren’t lucky enough to be in town during the Alaska State Fair, you’ll just have to suck it up (so to speak) and get your fix in a more civilized manner. Many restaurants serve fresh-shucked local oysters with a traditional mignonette or cocktail sauce, including F Street Station and Sullivan’s Steakhouse. Or, if you’re looking for a two-birds, one-stone kind of dish, you can head over to Humpy’s Alehouse for a vodkalaced oyster shooter. For something more refined, Haute Quarter Grill offers a cold oyster dish served with a strawberry, cucumber and ginger mignonette. Ginger serves their up with a bok choy mignonette for an Asian twist. However, if you want more oyster options, head over to The Bubbly Mermaid, a hip and quirky little oyster bar that is, literally, shipshaped. Over a dozen open bottles of Champagne, bartenders pour up the perfect accompaniment for an eclectic menu of cold and hot oyster dishes. Feeling trendy? Opt for the hipster shooter with kale, Sriracha and Pabst Blue Ribbon beer, or, if you’re more of a traditionalist, you can order oysters Rockefeller. That said, the cold salt waters of Alaskan’s coast produce the most delicious oysters in the world — plump, sweet and briny — so after dabbling with dips, toppings and sauces, do yourself a flavor and end your meal with at least one oyster eaten au naturel. A little taste of the sea is the perfect dessert.

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EXPLORE CAFE CULTURE IN ANCHORAGE, A TOWN THAT TAKES ITS COFFEE SERIOUSLY By M A R A S E V E R I N

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ven the hardiest Alaskans need a coping mechanism or two to help us through the long winter: vitamin D supplements, blackout curtains, mood lamps. You name it, we’ve probably tried it. And sure, long walks in the sunshine are great, but have you tried coffee? One thing many Alaskans rely on is year-round coffee-therapy. A hot, frothy cappuccino, sipped in a cozy cafe, can be the perfect cure for the low-winter-sun blues. Or, skip the trudge through a snowy parking lot and pick up a hot brew from one of Anchorage’s many drive-thru coffee carts. Sip smugly in your warm car. Caffeinated pick-me-ups are no less valuable in summer when Alaskans are burning the candle at both ends. After all, if the sun never goes down, is it ever really bedtime?

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Which is why Alaska’s coffee roasters are household names to the locals. There’s Kaladi Brothers (my teens call it “K Bros”), which grew from a lone espresso cart in 1984 to a burgeoning business with 14 stores around the state (and one in Seattle). There’s Uncle Leroy’s Coffee, which started with a 1968 school bus and camp-stove roasted beans but now has two brick and mortar cafes and supplies coffee around the city. There is Steamdot Coffee Co., whose Midtown cafe features a “slow bar,” where your coffee is ground and brewed fresh to order. And then there’s Black Cup Coffee — they serve a full menu of espresso drinks but their motto, as their name implies, is: “extraordinary coffee best served black.” It’s a friendly battle of the beans. Everyone has their favorite, but each of these coffee purveyors enjoys a well-earned popularity. But coffee can be as much about cafe culture as it is about beans. A good coffeehouse is part community center, part extended office, part mental day spa and part art gallery. It’s a great way to learn about someplace new. And in downtown Anchorage, cafe culture is thriving. The Kaladi Brothers cafe at the Alaska Center for the Performing Arts downtown (621 W. Sixth Ave.) is a bustling space and a convenient spot to grab a cup of stamina while in the midst of souvenir shopping or if you’re on the way to see a show. Across the street is Steamdot Coffee at Williwaw, which offers an expansive and relatively serene seating area perfect for reading, catching up on emails or writing out postcards. Lepi de Paris (423 G St.) offers a variety of pastries and a side of je ne sais quoi with their French roast. The coffee drinks at Midnight Sun Café (245 W. Fifth Ave.) feature organically roasted K Bay Coffee from Homer. Another local favorite is Dark Horse Coffee (646 F St.), a cozy, slightly out-of-the-way spot with a reputation for great coffee drinks (which they source from Heritage Coffee in Juneau) and avocado toast. Bonus points for their inviting little porch, where you can sit and sip on sunny days. If you require a hearty meal alongside your Americano, Kaladi Brothers coffee is served up at the friendly Snow City Café (1034 W. Fourth Ave.). A favorite with locals, this funky, vibrant spot features rotating local art, an impressive variety of eggs Benedict and expertly crafted espresso drinks. I’m particularly partial to their use of tall, sleeved pint glasses to serve large-sized lattes and mochas. Hot drinks taste better served this way. I don’t know why. For a coffeehouse experience with an edgy, more urban vibe, check out the Red Chair Café (337 E. Fourth Ave.), with its industrial chic aesthetic and bold graffiti artwork. While the atmosphere is contemporary, its menu is reassuringly comforting. It might be the only place in town to feature authentic scrapple. Or hit up AK Alchemist (103 E. Fourth Ave.), which describes itself as the perfect mix of “Alaskan culture, urban city swank and steampunk artistry” all wrapped up into one coffeehouse. On the other end of the ambiance spectrum is Kobuk Coffee (corner of Fifth Avenue and E Street). By Town Square, in the historic Kimball Building (1915), this charming little gift shop retains some of its original fixtures and flooring. In a store packed full of unnecessary necessities (old-timey candy, scented candles and teacups), you’ll be hard-pressed to make it to the coffee room without doing some impromptu browsing (and, if you’re like me, buying). Kobuk offers a whole range of espresso drinks and a wide variety of teas, but whichever you choose, make sure you get house-made doughnuts to keep it company. What kind of doughnuts, you ask? Like everything else in the store: old-fashioned. Husband-and-wife owners George Gee and Deborah Seaton have been running Side Street Espresso (412 G St.) for 25 years and it has evolved from a cafe into a neighborhood institution. In contrast to the gleaming fixtures of trendier, newer cafes in town, Side Street Espresso is like a living scrapbook, commemorating 2 1/2 decades of the Anchorage community. The cozy space is filled with curios, a Buddhist shrine, a lending library, a rack of local postcards, board games and 50

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George Gee, co-owner of Side Street Espresso, starts most of his days drawing portraits on a dry erase board that also serves to announce his daily drink specials. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

layers of notices about local events. Espresso drinks are expertly made, and George treats everyone like an old friend. But my favorite thing about Side Street Espresso is the art. George has been creating an original piece of art on a white “specials” board almost every day for 20 years. Inspired by his morning thoughts on his walk to work, Monday’s board might announce a Toasted Marshmallow Mocha atop a portrait of Maria Callas. Or Atticus Finch might share space with the price-point for a cherryflavored latte. George used to erase these daily (with a Zen-like attitude that I cannot fathom) but local public outcry inspired him to begin to preserve them. They’ve now been assembled into a book of collected works called “Flutters from Side Street.” It’s a reminder that a cup of coffee can invigorate, but a cafe can inspire.

Celebrating 25 years of delicious beer MidnightSunBrewing.com

A beer flight at King Street Brewing Co. PHOTO BY MARA SEVERIN

BREWERIES IN ALASKA ARE BOOMING. HERE’S WHERE TO GET A TASTE. By M A R A S E V E R I N

exchange for living in what is perhaps the country’s most beautiful state, Alaskans sometimes have to do without: professional sports teams, In-N-Out Burger and, well, sunlight for half the year. But we make up for it with the Iditarod, reindeer sausages and aurora borealis chasing. In other words, we often have to make our own fun. And, sometimes, by “fun” I mean “beer.” Those words are interchangeable, right? Beer is a big part of life for Alaskans. We hike with it, camp with it, boat with it, cook with it and pair it with foods like the stuffiest of sommeliers. We throw it monthly birthday parties like the First Tap events at Broken Tooth Brewing Co. (otherwise known as Bear Tooth Theatrepub and Moose’s Tooth Pub & Pizzeria), complete with national musical acts like Norah Jones and Imagine Dragons. We even do yoga with it (at downtown’s sprawling Williwaw venue). In other words, we take it everywhere and we take it seriously. Beers from the state’s biggest brewery, Alaskan Brewing Co. based in Juneau, might already be in your refrigerator if you live in one of the 25 Western and Midwestern states where it’s available. Or you might have

refreshed yourself with an Alaskan Amber on your Alaska Airlines flight on the way into Anchorage. By sales volume, it is the 19th largest craft brewery in the United States. With a steady line of signature brews — and some seasonal specialties that incorporate cranberries, raspberries, locally roasted coffee and even Alaska spruce tips — it’s the most well-established of all the state’s breweries. Ubiquitous around Alaska, this long-running brewery is our Papa Beer, if you will (I’ll show myself out). But Alaskan Brewing is just one of over 40 breweries in the state. And while almost half of them are in Anchorage or within a short drive of our state’s largest city (including the relatively populous communities of Girdwood, Eagle River, Palmer and Wasilla), some of our most remote ports of call and tiniest towns (I’m looking at you, Gakona Brewery in Gakona, population 218) are emphatically in on the brewing action. The ever-expanding Denali Brewing Co. in Talkeetna (population 876) may be a small-town hero, but it’s anything but small. In fact, it’s currently the second-largest beer producer in Alaska. Their four signature beers — Mother Ale, Chuli Stout, Single Engine Red and the ever-popular Twister Creek IPA — are year-round mainstays of summer barbecues and winter bonfires around the state. Their brewery is also home to the recently established Alaska Cider Works,

Alaska Meadery (featuring “Razzery,” a mead made with raspberries, sour cherries and apples) and Denali Spirits (featuring vodka, gin, whiskey and “smoke” whiskey) because when you’ve fermented one, why not ferment them all? But some breweries are even more remote. Ports of call and island hopping here can be one way to get your fi ll of hops. Breweries can be found in Ketchikan (Bawden Street Brewing Co. and Baleen Brewing Co.), Kodiak (Kodiak Island Brewing Co.), Homer (Homer Brewing Co. and Grace Ridge Brewing Co.), Valdez (Valdez Brewing), and Skagway (Klondike Brewing Co. and Skagway Brewing Co.). Of course, many trips to Alaska begin and end in Anchorage. And if, during your travels, you’ve foolishly left some beers untasted, you can make up for lost time in our state’s biggest city. Glacier Brewhouse specializes in “English and American West Coast style beers along with a elaborate oak aging program.” Opt for their raspberry wheat, oatmeal stout, imperial blonde, Bavarian hefeweizen or a flight that includes them all. Or try their special caskconditioned ale, which undergoes a secondary fermentation, resulting in a creamier end product. Matanuska Brewing Co.’s new downtown location is part of a growing family of pubs serving their own beer, locally brewed at the VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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former Matanuska Maid Creamery in Palmer. I’m a fan of the tart Backcountry Blue (berry) and the citrusy Magnitude 9.2. Down the street is 49th State Brewing Co., expanding into Anchorage from its original location in Healy, at the edge of Denali National Park and Preserve. If you were unable to visit their flagship location, where you can sip beer while playing bocce or horseshoes on the lawn, you can catch up with them here. There are unique beer offerings like White Peach White (described as a “beer Bellini”) or the dunkelweizen, a dark, unfiltered wheat beer that is, let’s face it, super fun to say. This location also boasts some of the best views in town and an expansive outdoor rooftop patio. Just about all of the full-service restaurants in downtown Anchorage proudly feature some variety of Alaska beers. Fat Ptarmigan pizzeria has an extensive list of local brews and is collaborating with Double Shovel Cider to open Anchorage Cider House, if your tastes run toward fermented fruit. In the heart of downtown, Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse prides itself on a huge selection of beers, both international and local. If you have transportation around the city, treat yourself to a brewery tasting-room tour. Found in unassuming little side streets in the more industrial areas of Anchorage, some of

our best beers can be sipped and savored at the source. Finding these funky little spots can feel like being invited to a secret party. And it’s a glimpse into Anchorage’s most authentic beer culture. You might start by trying the most popular beer at Resolution Brewing Co.: Neighborhood IPA. Jokingly referred to as “the most diverse beer in Anchorage,” it celebrates its home neighborhood of Mountain View, which in recent years has received widespread media attention as the most diverse census tract in the United States. Farther south are Onsite Brewing Co., King Street Brewing Co., Anchorage Brewing Co., Turnagain Brewing, Cynosure Brewing and Double Shovel Cider Co. (for a little variety), all within a stone’s throw of one another. If you’re lucky, you might run into one of Anchorage’s popular food trucks parked outside, so you’ll have something to wash down with your flights. Nearby, Midnight Sun Brewing Co. is part tasting room and part community center, with First Friday art openings, a rotating menu of creative comfort food and an all-around cool, local vibe. My next-door neighbors frequent the brewery for their great brews (favorites include the Panty Peeler Belgian-style tripel and the Pleasure Town IPA) and also to pick up free spent grain to

feed to their chickens. Bear in mind that tasting rooms often have limited and varying hours, so be sure to check ahead. If your travels are over and you still haven’t had your fill, check out the Silver Gulch Brewing & Bottling Co. inside Terminal C at the Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport on your way out of town. An offshoot of the flagship Silver Gulch brewery in Fox, Alaska (about 10 miles north of Fairbanks), this location has a bar and restaurant as well as a retail shop, which means you can bring a taste of Alaska home in the shape of a growler. Whether your travels take you to finedining restaurants, low-key alehouses or even rustic cabins in the woods, make like an Alaskan and fuel your adventures with one of our beloved, home-grown brews. When in Alaska, drink as the Alaskans do.

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Wide variety of Ulu bowl sets, handles & sizes. Free Ulu demos and factory tours. tour See our gallery of ancient Ulus! Shop our gift shop for Alaskan jewelry, tasty treats, and more! Walk the Coastal trail along Ship Creek. Salmon viewing and fishing (in season).

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SUMMER ONLY

VISITING JUNEAU IS A CAPITAL IDEA By J E N N A S C H N U E R

uneau is, by no means, the most logical of capital cities. With no roads connecting it to the rest of the state, even legislators have to ferry or fly in for sessions. It’s simply not all that convenient a place to get to (or away from). But whether you’re a longtime legislator or a first-time visitor, the journey will serve up scenery that’s sure to take the sting out of pretty much any inconvenience. Oh, don’t forget your raincoat. Juneau’s not just a coastal city. It’s a rainforest city. A Pacific temperate rainforest city, to be exact. But even on wet days, this city of about 32,000 residents — plus nearly 1.8 million visitors each summer — contains a lot to check out. The state museum had an awesome overhaul a few years back. The hiking is spectacular. There’s plenty of shopping to be done. And the dining? Well, little old Juneau has come quite a long way. But long before the place now known as Juneau played host to miners, legislators or foodies, the area was home to the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian people. For one of the state’s most stunning installations of Native art, walk the exterior of the Walter Soboleff Building, which features massive art pieces by celebrated artists from each of the three tribes. Head inside for exhibits on ancient place names and the off-the-hook tools invented to catch salmon and halibut. Word of warning: Along with that rain gear, make sure you don’t step out onto the streets of Juneau without comfortable footwear. Unless you stay by the cruise ship docks, there’s a good chance you’re going to walk at an angle for most of your wandering. Juneau’s got some steep hills — but there’s plenty to see (and distract you from the climb) along the way.

A pedestrian walks the Gold Creek Flume Trail on a soggy morning in Juneau. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

AT TRACTIONS PERSEVERANCE TRAIL This (mostly) easy-peasy trail wanders into Gold Creek Valley and past the longabandoned Perseverance Mine — it closed down in 1921. The 3-mile trail will probably take two or three hours to finish. Maybe four if you’re a photograph-everything type. VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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Low clouds hug the mountains at Mendenhall Lake near the Mendenhall Glacier Visitors Center in Juneau. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

MOUNT ROBERTS If you’re not in the mood to climb, you can get to the top of Mount Roberts via Southeast’s only tramway. Best avoided by those with a fear of heights, the tram skirts the mountain on the 1,800-foot ride up from the cruise ship dock. Once up top, there’s plenty to do: wander the trails, visit the Mount Roberts Nature Center, buy some tchotchkes at the gift shop and, of course, take a zillion photos.

WHERE TO E AT Juneau’s been getting serious attention from national food and travel media for its food and drink options. Chef Beau Schooler, who has been racking up James Beard nominations for best chef of the northwest, is always changing things up at his Italian restaurant, In Bocca Al Lupo. No, you can’t get food just like it at home. Schooler serves up some serious from-scratch magic. (He’s also fun to follow on Instagram.) Check out inboccaallupoak.com. For dinner, make reservations at SALT Alaska, the city’s top spot for fine dining. Chef Lionel Uddipa puts locally foraged ingredients, often found on his own early morning walks, to work for a

menu that changes with each season. But if you’re more thirsty (for adult beverages) than hungry, head straight to Amalga Spirits. Their Juneauper Gin — see what they did there? — is top notch, top shelf, and all around tops. Don’t have time to scout out the local food scene but want to get the good stuff in your belly? Worry not. Food blogger Kelly “Midgi” Moore and her team of local food tour guides has you covered. During the walking tours, your guide will point your mouth toward some smokin’ delicious smoked fish, all the salmon dip and crab you can handle and other tasty treats. Some tour options will help you quench your thirst for local brews and booze too. (See a full calendar at juneaufoodtours.com.)

the lake. Prefer staying on land? You can still get a good view of the 13-mile-long glacier and the lake from the trail that runs from the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center. The center has loads of educational information too. It’s a cool spot — pun intended.

MENDENHALL LAKE AND GLACIER

ADMIRALTY ISLAND

Time to get up close — but not too close, please — to some of Juneau’s prettiest nature sculptures: the icebergs that float around in Mendenhall Lake and the mama that calved them, Mendenhall Glacier. Take a guided or self-guided paddle across the lake for a waterlevel view of the floating wonders. Alaska Boat & Kayak Shop can pick you up and supply the gear needed for a comfortable outing on

Haven’t seen a bear yet? Don’t fret. Your chance to see plenty of bears is out on Admiralty Island, a short floatplane flight (or longer kayak trip) away. Peak bear-viewing season is July through August. The best bet if you’re not bear-country savvy? Head out to the Forest Service’s Pack Creek bear viewing area with a guide. (Search fs.usda.gov for more information or call 907-586-8800.)

ALASKA STATE MUSEUM Providing one of the best intro courses to Alaska’s cultures, art, history and nature, the Alaska State Museum is, truly, one of those something-for-everybody sorts of places. A massive renovation turned the already-good museum into something truly spectacular. The hardest decision: Do you go there first or do you wait to duck in during a downpour? You can’t go wrong either way. (395 Whittier St.)

Located at 535 Second Ave. in the Historic Empress Theater Upstairs in the Co-Op Plaza.

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Winter in Fairbanks • The Great Flood • Klondike Gold Rush Early Fairbanks • The Driving Spirit (Dog Mushing) • Monthly Art Show 54

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EXPLORING FAIRBANKS, THE GOLDEN HEART CITY By D A V I D J A M E S

ocated near the geographic center of the state, Fairbanks is Alaska’s year-round tourism destination. Established along the Chena River in 1901, it originally served prospectors working outlying gold claims. In the 119 years since, it’s grown to include a university and two military bases, and it has become the commercial hub of Interior Alaska. Owing to its inland climate, the town enjoys drier weather and hotter summers than most of Alaska. On summer solstice, Fairbanksans bask in 22 hours and 49 minutes of direct sunlight. But with the sun setting just below the horizon before rising again, the town does not see darkness from early May until mid-August. The Fairbanks Convention and Visitors Bureau is the place for information, and it has welcome centers along the riverfront downtown and in the nearby Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center. The Thompson Center provides an excellent introduction to the history and culture of Interior Alaska’s original inhabitants, the Athabascan people. Downtown has many shops and restaurants and hosts the annual Midnight Sun Festival, which celebrates the solstice with a street festival. Open year-round, nearby Pioneer Park offers fun for the whole family with playground equipment, historic buildings, a train ride, museums and more.

Soak up some sun on or off the water in Fairbanks. PHOTO BY BOB HALLINEN

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Museums are scattered throughout town, including the Museum of the North on the University of Alaska Fairbanks campus, which holds one of the state’s premier collections of Alaska and Arctic artifacts. The Fairbanks Community Museum focuses on the city’s history. Car buffs will motor toward the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum, while summer visitors wanting a taste of winter can experience 20-below temperatures at the Ice Museum. And restless young ones will enjoy a stop at the Fairbanks Children’s Museum. Fairbanks has a lively, close-knit and very supportive arts community, with several galleries open year-round to display the work of local artists. For those seeking a deeper knowledge of Alaska and its culture, its people and its history, the secondhand bookstore Forget-Me-Not Books, operated by and benefiting the Literacy Council of Alaska, always has a large selection of Alaska-related books — some of them quite rare — along with plenty of other volumes on all topics. And the Noel Wein Library has regular children’s programs, free movies, plenty of special events and free high-speed internet access, all at its downtown location. Much of Fairbanks’ growth has been driven by the gold and oil industries. A tour of Gold Dredge 8 north of town gives visitors a taste of the rich gold mining history of Fairbanks, while the nearby Trans-Alaska Pipeline Viewpoint lets people walk right up to one of the world’s engineering marvels. For a taste of nature, Creamer’s Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge, located on the north side of town, offers birding and wildlife viewing as well as miles of walking trails. The Large Animal Research Station on the north part of the UAF campus allows visitors a close look at musk oxen. Visitors looking to go fishing or hunting first need to obtain the proper license from the Alaska Department of Fish and Game. The department also has advice for obtaining a licensed and qualified guide to help arrange transportation, supplies and other logistics to make the experience complete. For outdoor recreation, hiking and/or

mountain biking trails can be found on the UAF campus, at the nearby Birch Hill Recreation Area, in the Chena River State Recreation Area east of town and elsewhere. All of these trails are open to skiers in winter. The Chena River winds through downtown and is popular with paddlers. Mountain bikes, canoes and kayaks can be rented from several establishments, and skis and fat bikes can be rented in winter. The Fairbanks Hiking Club, Fairbanks Cycle Club, Fairbanks Paddlers and Running Club North can be contacted for information. All four welcome out-oftown guests to their events. ATVs and snowmachines can be rented for excursions on the vast network of public multiple-use trails that extend in all directions beyond Fairbanks. Check with rental companies for information on accessing the best trails. For getaways, Denali National Park and Preserve is just a two-hour drive south, and the Arctic Circle is about five hours north. The Riverboat Discovery Tour provides the opportunity to slip out of town and head down the Chena and Tanana rivers via sternwheeler. The nearby town of North Pole is home to the Santa Claus House, where it’s Christmas all year. A bit farther down the road is the Chena Lake Recreation Area. Popular with paddlers, cyclists, walkers and swimmers, the park also has 45 campsites. Many races are available for those seeking a workout. The Midnight Sun Run, held on the Saturday night closest to the June solstice, attracts as many as 3,000 participants to a 10 p.m. 10K dash winding through town from the university to Pioneer Park. In September, the Equinox Marathon, starting and finishing at the university, is one of the most grueling marathon courses in America. Restaurants for all tastes and budgets abound, including a remarkable number of very good Thai restaurants. And later, visitors can kick back at one of the growing number of breweries and distilleries.

WINTER IN FAIRBANKS

minus 40 or more, and visitors should come prepared. But usually it’s nowhere near that severe. And with the dry climate and minimal wind, zero in Fairbanks can feel warmer than 30 above in Anchorage. Winter solstice brings just 3 hours and 41 minutes of direct sunlight, but the low-lying sun envelops the town and hills in a beautiful pink and golden glow. And by late January the light is back. Fairbanks is the ideal location for aurora viewing, and several local businesses cater to this growing clientele. It also offers some of the best winter recreational opportunities in Alaska. Snowmobile tours are gaining in popularity, and several guides offer them, both near town and farther afield. Dog sled tours are available for those wanting to experience mushing. For spectators, the Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race alternates beginning and finishing in Fairbanks and the city of Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory every year. For winter athletes, the Chena River to Ridge Race offers 25- and 50-mile routes for skiers, fat bikers and runners every March, while the White Mountains 100 presents those same groups with a challenging 100-mile trip though the White Mountains National Recreation Area about an hour north of town. Even those with more modest ambitions can rent fat bikes for winter excursions on the trails in Goldstream Valley and cross country skis for the trails on Birch Hill and the university campus. Downhill ski runs can be found on Birch Hill and Moose Mountain. Finally, no visit to Fairbanks is complete without a trip to Chena Hot Springs Resort, 56 miles east of town. While open year round, winter is the best time to climb into the outdoor pools. The hot water keeps bathers comfortable even as air temperatures drop below zero, snow and ice sweep upward from the pool edges, and the northern lights dance in the sky. It’s the quintessential Fairbanks experience, and one of the reasons why many residents consider winter in Fairbanks the best season of all.

Winters bring icy temperatures dipping to

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There’s no knowing what kind of friendly faces you’ll find in the Matanuska-Susitna Borough. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

CHOOSE YOUR ADVENTURE IN MAGNIFICENT MAT SU EAGLE RIVER

By J E N N A S C H N U E R

andwiched between Anchorage and Denali National Park and Preserve, the two valleys (Matanuska Valley and Susitna Valley) that make up what locals call “the Valley” tumble across 23,000 often gorgeous square miles. First things first: You’re going to need a rental car. Summer RV traffic might slow your roll a bit, but that’s OK; there’s plenty to look at, explore and taste along the way.

One of America’s most stunning suburbs, Eagle River is technically part of Anchorage and not Mat Su, but it’s very much a place of its own. Head to the Eagle River Nature Center for some of the area’s best nature programming for kids and adults. The center’s hiking trails will make you feel like you’re much deeper into Alaska than just 30 minutes from Anchorage. If you’re interested in a night in the wild (but not too wild), reserve one of the center’s cabins or yurts. You’ll need sleeping bags and other gear, but each has a wood stove to cozy up to. If you decide you want a pizza, you’re not too far a drive away from the truly legit ’za stop, Pizza Man. After a night (or an afternoon) at the center,

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stop at Jitters for Eagle River’s best cup of coffee (and giant cookies too) before heading out to Bodenburg Butte near Palmer for a hike. An easy hike too. The view from the top includes Matanuska Peak, farmlands, Knik Glacier and braided rivers.

PALMER You’ll hear and see much about “the Colony” when wandering in Palmer. The nickname has stuck around since 1935, when 203 families arrived from the Midwest to try their hands (and backs, and patience) farming the area’s rich soil. There are still several now grown up Colony kids around ready to tell you about the good, the bad and the truly harsh parts of Colony life. Head straight to the wee but interesting Colony House Museum (316 E. Elmwood Ave.), located in, as the name makes clear, one of the original Colony houses. Many of the docents grew up in the Colony and can fi ll you in on what it took to make it through those first winters. Try to time visits to coincide with the weekly Friday Fling. Part craft fair, part food festival, the outdoor market fi lls the pavilion across from the visitor center. Afterward, wander through Palmer’s antique shops and the excellent indie bookstore, Fireside Books (720 S. Alaska St.), before sitting down at Turkey Red (550 S. Alaska St.) for farm fresh salads, baked goods

Sunbathers at Newcomb Park wade in Wasilla Lake during a sunny day. PHOTO BY BILL ROTH

or the beef stew of the day. If you want to go full fair, make sure you’re in the area between Aug. 27 and Sept. 7 when the Alaska State Fair takes over the Palmer fairgrounds. From the supersized veggies that have made the fair nationally known (the cabbages are huge) to all the tilt a whirl time and fried delights you know you shouldn’t eat but will anyway, the fair is a hoot and a half.

WASILLA The big cousin to artsier Palmer, Wasilla leans more toward big box stores and is an

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easy place to do any last minute food or gear shopping for trips to Denali or beyond. (No need to scratch your head wondering how you’ve heard of Wasilla: It’s home to former Alaska governor Sarah Palin.) But once the errands are finished, there are several spots around Wasilla worth exploring. Hang out (or even claim a camping spot) at Lake Lucile Park or stretch your legs on an easy walk around Wasilla’s trails. Iditarod fever remains strong year round at the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters (2100 S. Knik Goose Bay Road). Inside there are exhibits and a

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gift shop. Outside? A dog team ready to give you a ride. Science and car loving kids (and the adults who adore those kids) are sure to enjoy the exhibits at the Museum of Alaska Transportation and Industry (3800 W. Museum Drive).

TALKEETNA Mention Talkeetna to pretty much any Alaskan and you’re sure to hear something like this: “I love Talkeetna! I once (insert crazy story here).” Yes, Talkeetna can be that kind of a town. But it’s also the gateway to Denali, the town where those bold enough to try to climb that beautiful beast of a mountain start their trip, as well as a good hangout for day hikers, history buffs and beer lovers.

You can take a look see at Denali without climbing it. (No, not a lazy option. A sane option.) Several local companies offer flightseeing around the mountain. Some options: flyk2.com, denaliair.com, talkeetnaair.com. But first, food. You might have to wait to be seated at The Roadhouse (13550 E. Main St.), but their breakfast (and fun conversations with other travelers at your table) makes it worth spending the time. Pop into the Talkeetna Historical Society for a talk on mountaineering and a peek at the massive 3 D model of the Alaska Range. For a gentle but rewarding hike before lunch, wander around Talkeetna Lakes Park. After? Comfort food choices abound, from great big burgers at the

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Denali Brewing Company and Brewpub (13605 E. Main St.) — which pair well with a flight of beer — to the namesake dish from Talkeetna Spinach Bread (housed in an Airstream trailer on Main Street). There’s also a small but good selection of shops to wander for trinkets, art and other souvenirs you won’t think you can live without. On the way back out of town, stop into the Flying Squirrel Bakery (26205 Talkeetna Spur Road) for coffee (and, perhaps, another dessert) and Alaska Wild Harvest (38138 S. Talkeetna Spur Road) to find out how to harvest birch syrup and to buy some of the goodies made from it.

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alaskavisit.com VISITORS’ GUIDE •

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The city of Kodiak PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

KODIAK AND THE ALASKA PANHANDLE: LUSH GREEN LANDSCAPES ARE JUST THE BEGINNING By J E N N A S C H N U E R

ust a taste of life on Kodiak or pretty much anywhere in Southeast Alaska leaves most people wanting more. So much more. With busy fishing fleets, thriving art and food scenes, vibrant Native communities and quirky little museums, it’s hard not to fall deeply, madly in love with these island and coastal towns. You can drive to a few towns in Southeast, but those road trips require many, many miles. For a first visit, your best bet is to travel by boat or plane. (Note: Travel by boat has become more complicated lately due to the beleaguered state of Alaska’s ferry system; if you’re hoping to travel the Alaska Marine Highway System, be sure to check updates at dot.alaska.gov/amhs and the latest news at ADN.com.) One word of advice — don’t forget your raincoat. Known as the Alaska Panhandle, Southeast Alaska is part of the world’s largest 60

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temperate rainforest. There’s a reason for all that lush greenery you’ll see as you travel through. Ketchikan normally gets just under 23 inches of rain between June and August — but some years, it blows that average out of the, um, water. From May to August 2001, Ketchikan residents (grudgingly) welcomed 57.12 inches of rain to town.

KODIAK Famous for its sizable namesake brown bears, Kodiak should be just as well known to outsiders for its ever-so-green landscape — its nickname is the Emerald Isle. Kodiak Island is, to put it mildly, a beauty. Between Kodiak City and the villages, there are around 13,500 year-round residents on the island. Hike the local trails. Launch a kayak or stand-up paddleboard in Anton Larsen Bay. Keep watch for whales or, often just as thrilling, puffins speeding by. Drive out Anton Larsen Bay Road to see the island’s famed wild bison. (Just slow down as you approach them. You don’t want to startle a herd of something so sizable.) Dig into Kodiak’s history at the Alutiiq Museum or the Kodiak History Museum (formerly known as

the Baranov Museum). Get ideas for the next day’s adventures over a brew at Kodiak Island Brewing Co. on Memorial Day weekend as the island hosts one of its main events (well, at least of the summer): the Kodiak Crab Festival, featuring family-friendly fun and, of course, plenty of crab. This year’s theme gets right to it in that cute but corny way the crab festival does ever so well: “Sea What Matters.”

SITKA It could be the mist or fog that often hugs Sitka. Or perhaps it’s the insane sunsets that take over the entire sky. Maybe it’s just the really good coffee at the local bookstore. Whichever “it” of Sitka grabs you, the place sticks with visitors forever. Ignore the rain and keep on paddling during a guided kayak trip around the islands off Sitka. Walk the pathways and take time at each totem pole at Sitka National Historical Park. The park, where Russians invaded and fought the Kiks. adi Tlingit people, offers an immersion course in the Russian occupation of the town. Sitka served as the capital of Russian America from 1808 until Alaska became part of the the United States 59 years later. Open the

drawers in the exhibition space of the Sheldon Jackson Museum — first opened in 1887 — to see antique children’s toys, jewelry and more beautiful artifacts. It’s quite the intimate and peaceful museum experience. Classical music fans would do well to time their visit to the annual Sitka Summer Music Festival (occurring over June 7-28), when some of the world’s best chamber music groups perform.

KETCHIKAN Ketchikan tends to be all hustle and bustle in the summer when cruise ships are in, but there’s more to the town than just that. Ketchikan has one of Southeast Alaska’s most colorful art scenes. The city’s bestknown artist, Ray Troll, is the talent behind the punny T-shirts you’ll see everywhere from airport gift shops to festivals. Check out Troll’s work, along with pieces by Evon Zerbetz and many of Ketchikan’s other fine artists, at the Soho Coho art gallery (5 Creek St.). But the art goes on … from the docks to the school buildings, the island community celebrates local artists at every turn. Turn a walk around town into a public art treasure hunt. Or, for art that’s equal parts craftsmanship and storytelling, visit the Totem Heritage Center — or just keep your eyes open for some of the many, many totem poles around town. Prefer learning about the, ahem, saucier side of olden times? Stop in at Dolly’s House Museum (24 Creek St.) to learn about Ketchikan’s Prohibition-era red light district. Then, take a flight trip out to Misty Fjords National Monument for the chance to kayak among whales.

A ranger discusses a totem pole in the Sitka National Historic Park. NPS PHOTO

SKAGWAY This is Klondike Gold Rush territory, flat out. Skagway has its modern bits — Glacial Smoothies & Espresso (Third Avenue, off Broadway), Skagway Brewing Co. (Seventh and Broadway) and gift shops that sell things that aren’t made in Alaska — but at its core it’s a town-sized Gold Rush museum. Home of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, Skagway is also the starting point for many hikers heading out on the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail. They’re easy to recognize: They’re the ones with (usually) enormous backpacks. Of course, there’s plenty outdoors to explore here, with trails to hike and, after a helicopter ride out, glaciers to dog sled on. One of the only Southeast towns accessible by road (via the Klondike Highway), visitors can also get to town by air, ferry or cruise ship.

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Independence Day fireworks in Seward shortly after midnight PHOTO BY LOREN HOLMES

YOUR GUIDE TO AN EPIC SEWARD HIGHWAY ROAD TRIP By K A T I E P E S Z N E C K E R

ne of the most impressive things about Anchorage is how quickly you can leave the city behind, thanks to the Seward Highway serving up a stunning southbound road trip to the scenic harbor town of Seward. This fabled 125-mile stretch of road travels along Turnagain Arm into the dramatic Chugach and Kenai mountains, where ancient glaciers wink through summertime greenery. The road descends alongside tiny communities, roadhouses and aquamarine alpine lakes before dropping down into Seward, on the edge of Resurrection Bay. The time-pressed traveler could make it to Seward and back in a long, full day, but this memorable trek is best enjoyed across one or more nights, allowing for immersive stops to enjoy distinctive Alaskan experiences, delicious dining and plenty of time for meandering and picture-taking.

GIRDWOOD Girdwood, located about 45 minutes south of Anchorage, is a laid-back artsy ski resort town a few miles inland from the

highway itself. The town relocated after the 1964 earthquake, and today is a collection of delectable restaurants, charming galleries, ski chalets and condos, parks and a single school. Girdwood is known for recreation. Winter slopes host downhill mountain biking come summer. The less adventurous can pedal paved paths across town. A popular pit stop for hikers, the Winner Creek Trail is accessible just behind the lovely Hotel Alyeska. The 3-mile hike (one way) follows a well-used route through forest. The more adventurous might forge along the Crow Pass trail. A staggering 21 miles long, tackling only the first few miles of the trail will yield rewards aplenty, winding upward from Girdwood with breathtaking views of glaciers, mining remnants and mountaintops. For dining, there are a number of great options. Begin your day here with breakfast. Locals love the Bake Shop (194 Olympic Mountain Loop), a morning-time staple for 40-plus years, with homespun favorites like sourdough pancakes and cinnamon rolls. If you stay in Girdwood, or swing by on your way back to Anchorage, try dinner at Jack Sprat (165 Olympic Mountain Loop). Its regional cuisine with an Alaska touch is truly special, highlighting seasonal fresh produce and locally sourced food. Its tall

Seward Community Library & Museum 907-224-4082 · libmus@cityofseward.net www.cityofseward.us/libmus 239 6th Ave · Seward, AK

chalet windows offer lovely views of the mountainous landscape. Nearby, the menu rarely changes at Double Musky Inn (Mile 0.3 Crow Creek Road), but why mess with perfection? The tuckedaway steakhouse known for its gaudy French Quarter décor and world-class wine cellar has served Creole classics with Alaskan flair for decades now, delighting locals and tourists alike.

PORTAGE Portage was once a highway-side town at the head of Turnagain Arm, another ‘64 earthquake casualty with little remaining today but decomposing cabins overtaken by aggressive brush. In its place, the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center (Mile 79 Seward Highway) has sprouted up, sure to please the animal lovers. This nonprofit sanctuary provides large-enclosure spaces for orphaned and rehabilitating Alaska animals such as bears, moose, musk ox and caribou, and is open year-round. Visitors can view the animals by either driving or walking the 1.5-mile loop that encircles the center. There is a snack bar on site, and a gift shop that will charm animal lovers. Hours are 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. May to August, and 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in September.

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WHITTIER An eastern turn at Portage down Portage Valley Road will deliver the curious traveler to two worthy destinations: the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, and beyond that, the city of Whittier. The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center (Portage Lake Loop) sits about 5 miles east of the highway and opens from late May to early September. The center is built on the edge of Portage Lake on the moraine left by the receding Portage Glacier. The glacier is visible via daily boat trips to its front. The center itself offers science-geared educational opportunities for adults and kids alike. Drive farther and travelers will encounter a truly different experience by way of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. The 2.5-mile-long, one-way highway toll tunnel is the longest in North America, a dark and moody viaduct slicing through the formidable mountains, originally a train tunnel connecting the western side of Turnagain Arm to the military port town of Whittier. Whittier, a deep-water port, is today a quirky community where most residents call one of two large buildings home; the visible lack of buildable land quickly explains this odd residential reality. For activities, there are glacier-viewing boats that depart daily, regular cruise ship stops, a fine harbor-view hotel

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called the Inn at Whittier (5A Harbor Loop Road) and also camping and RV options. Frankly, the tunnel experience itself is strange enough to be worth a one-hour side trip. But if you have time, visit the small but surprisingly comprehensive Prince William Sound Museum.

SEWARD The Seward Highway ends at a town of about 2,800 year-round residents that is composed of fishing outfits, kayak companies, sightseeing boating excursions, shops, restaurants and bars, the Alaska Vocational Technical Center and the eerie Spring Creek Correctional Center, a maximum security prison just visible across the bay. Highlights of Seward include the Alaska SeaLife Center (301 Railway Ave.), a dazzling, hands-on aquarium and working science facility, with opportunities to watch diving puffins and sea lions, ogle octopus up close and learn about the special place that is Resurrection Bay. From the SeaLife Center, a leisurely walk up Fourth Avenue is an easy way to get a sense of Seward’s long-ago frontier culture, with its Old West storefronts, historical murals, commemorative plaques and charming old architecture. Additionally, a paved footpath runs from the SeaLife Center along the

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waterfront, past RV spots and campgrounds. Seward has plenty of hotel, rental and camping options for those overnighting it. Day cruises through Kenai Fjords National Park are an incredibly popular way to see the glorious waters just beyond this pretty waterfront town. Otters, seals, puffins, orcas and various migrating whales all may play cameos on these half- or full-day charters, some of which include island stopovers for meals. If you would rather see a glacier by foot, carve out a couple of hours for Exit Glacier. Located just inside Kenai Fjords National Park, this glacier at the edge of the Harding Icefield has notably receded in recent years, and signposts mark where the glacier fronted in years past. A moderately graded walking path leads to overlooks where the glacier is easily visible and photographable. While in Seward, adventurous anglers may opt for a half- or full-day halibut or salmon fishing charter. Charters typically provide all fishing gear, and in town, there are options for having fish filleted and flash-frozen for shipping once you’re back on the docks. These trips depart early and return late. Play your cards right, and you will enjoy the scenery of a wildlife-viewing trip while returning home with a freezer full of fish to commemorate your unique and unforgettable Alaska experience long after it’s over.

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FUN THINGS TO SEE AND DO ALONG THE KENAI PENNINSULA By B A I L E Y B E R G

Fishermen clean their catch at Miller’s Landing outside of Seward.

ig fish, gorgeous vistas, small-town charm: There’s adventure aplenty on the Kenai Peninsula. Accessible wilderness, heaps of trails and enough trophy fish to spawn “it was THIS big” stories for years to come, it’s easy to see why the Kenai Peninsula is often referred to as “Alaska’s playground.” While there are oodles of worthwhile spots to visit, here are just a few to get you started.

PHOTO BY MARC LESTER

HOPE Impossibly charming, Hope is a worthwhile detour for those zipping down to conquer the Kenai Peninsula. The atmospheric downtown with stunning views of Turnagain Arm offers a good jumping-off point for a variety of hikes. Gull Rock Trail, an old wagon road, is a local favorite — it’s 5 miles one-way with negligible elevation gain. Hope Point is a strenuous climb following an alpine ridge that offers incredible views (and serious bragging rights). Those looking for an adrenaline rush can book a rafting trip down Six Mile Creek. For those looking for a more relaxing trip, there are heaps of cabins with cozy porches ideal for cracking into a book, and the Seaview Cafe attracts some of the better Alaska bands for nighttime entertainment.

SEWARD Just over 120 miles away, Seward could make a nice day trip from Anchorage. But why rush? It has all the Alaska elements: water, mountains, forests, fishing and quirky local charm. Want to see a glacier up close? Access them by water in Kenai Fjords National Park or by land at Exit Glacier. Want to see sweeping views of Resurrection Bay? Meet Mount Marathon and marvel at how local racers get to the top, and back again, in under an hour on the Fourth of July every year. Looking for something the whole family will enjoy? Don’t miss the touch pool at the Alaska SeaLife Center and look for the best-named vessels in the harbor. Complement your adventures with a meal at one of the local eateries, many of which are housed in historic buildings.

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Drive through these towns in the height of summer and you’ll notice many cars laden with big, round dipnets, rods and reels with all the bells and whistles, coolers and muddy Xtratuf boots. The salmon that return en masse to the Kenai River are legendary, and locals look to fill their freezers with the muscular kings, shiny silvers and ruby reds. (Be advised: The area’s dipnet fishery is deservedly famous but open to state residents only. See our fishing guide for an overview of other great options, and always make sure you have the correct permits; the Department of Fish and Game’s We Fish AK site is a good place to start, or call 907-267-2218.) If fishing doesn’t call to you, there are breweries with airy patios, the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Headquarters & Visitors Center offers naturalist-led outdoor programs, and Soldotna’s Homestead Museum showcases homesteaders’ cabins with free guided tours.

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Sea otters bob along the surface of Kachemak Bay offshore from Homer. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

HOMER Visitors to Homer find there are many ways to explore “the end of the road.” Just 220 miles from Anchorage, the town sits between the water and the mountains and extends out onto a skinny, 4.5-milelong spit. It’s a town where fisherman, artists, beer-lovers, foodies, musicians, adventurers and beachcombers all feel at home. It’s easy to while away a few days — tramp along the beautiful trail systems, check out the tide pools, eat at first-rate restaurants, pick through the various

art galleries and handicraft stores. You can learn a bit more about the 49th state’s local ecosystem at the Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies or the Exxon oil spill at the Pratt Museum. If time and budget allow, tick off some bucket list experiences: Get a bird’s-eye view of nearby glaciers and wildlife on a flightseeing tour; cruise around on a water taxi looking for sea creatures; try your hand at reeling in a “barndoor” sized halibut on a charter; or take a water taxi across the bay to Halibut Cove, an artist enclave known for divine dishes at The Saltry Restaurant and stunning scenery.

Sunshine bathes cliffs and an arch at the entrance to Halibut Cove in Kachemak Bay. PHOTO BY ERIK HILL

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