805 Living March 2022 by 805 Living

M A RC H 2022

The Restaurant Issue

E X C L U S I V E LY AT CONEJO HARDWOODS

# I N S P I R E D T O S E R V E

A HEALTHY

e d i s  u  STARTS FROM THE INSIDE. - ROBERT ULRICH

R A M S E YA S P H A LT. C O M

FRONT, LEFT: Duncan Hizzey: Financial Advisor; Seth Haye: Managing Director-Wealth Management, Financial Advisor; Katie Arnold: Associate Vice President, Financial Advisor; BACK, LEFT: Griselda Hernandez: Registered Associate; Stephanie Hartmire: Wealth Management Associate; Elisa Decker: Vice President; Clint Spivey: Consulting Group Analyst; Jessica Hudson: Client Service Associate

The O ks Group Forbes Best-In-State Wealth Advisors 2021—Seth Haye Barron’s Top 1,200 Financial Advisors: State-by-State 2021—Seth Haye

WEALTH MANAGEMENT FOR HIGH-NET-WORTH FAMILIES 805-494-0215 · 100 N. Westlake Blvd., Suite 200, Westlake Village, CA 91362 Source: Forbes.com (February, 2021). Forbes Best-in-State Wealth Advisors ranking was developed by SHOOK Research and is based on in-person, virtual and telephone due diligence meetings to evaluate each advisor qualitatively, a major component of a ranking algorithm that includes: client retention, industry experience, review of compliance records, firm nominations; and quantitative criteria, including: assets under management and revenue generated for their firms. Investment performance is not a criterion because client objectives and risk tolerances vary, and advisors rarely have audited performance reports. Rankings are based on the opinions of SHOOK Research, LLC and are not indicative of future performance or representative of any one client’s experience. Neither Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC nor its Financial Advisors or Private Wealth Advisors pay a fee to Forbes or SHOOK Research in exchange for the ranking. For more information, see www.SHOOKresearch.com. Source: Barrons.com (March 2021). Top 1,200 Financial Advisors: State-by-State as identified by Barron’s magazine, using quantitative and qualitative criteria and selected from a pool of over 4,000 nominations. Advisors in the Top 1,200 Financial Advisors list have a minimum of seven years of financial services experience. Qualitative factors include, but are not limited to, compliance record and philanthropic work. Investment performance is not a criterion. The rating may not be representative of any one client’s experience and is not indicative of the financial advisor’s future performance. Neither Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC nor its Financial Advisors or Private Wealth Advisors pays a fee to Barron’s in exchange for the rating. Barron’s is a registered trademark of Dow Jones & Company, L.P. All rights reserved. Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC. Member SIPC. CRC 4145156 01/22

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Contents M A R C H 2 0 2 2 • T H E R E S TAU R A N T I S S U E

Features 68

CULINARY REUNION

A team of veteran restaurant professionals reconnects and rejoins to bring baked goods and Burmese-Californian fare to Ojai. By Nancy Ransohof f Photographs by Gar y Moss

’WICH HUNT

A dozen local eateries answer the call for extraordinary food that you can wrap your hands around.

GARY MOSS

By Lisa McKinnon Photographs by Gar y Moss

A group of Ojai transplants combine culinary forces at The Dutchess, a new bakery, café, and Burmese-Californian restaurant (see page 68 for details). MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Luxury Living

Bespoke furnishings customized for you.

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The Sofa Guy and its TSG interior design team design and build custom furniture (pictured above) and source unique pieces including lighting, rugs, and accessories to deliver the ultimate living spaces.

many of the little details one never thought existed. We believe the “sofa” is the heart of a room, and we put our heart into everything we do. Make an appointment to visit us soon. We’ll keep the candy bowl full.

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Contents

M A R C H 2 0 2 2 • T H E R E S TAU R A N T I S S U E

48 41

Pulse 35 Tracking the Beat of the 805

By Victoria Woodard Harvey, Nancy Ransohoff, and Erin Rottman

Finds 41 To a Tea

A recent surge in popularity takes the Brits’ afternoon tradition to new heights stateside.

Hand-painted murals and signs liven the restaurant scene. By Joan Tapper

On the Books 62 Garden Glory

A new, 288-page, photo-rich volume reveals the botanical wonders of Lotusland.

design creative cocktails with a nod to the Dutch painter.

96 Where to Eat Now

92 DINING OUT:

P.S. Sketchpad 104 Signature Dishes

New Digs for Decker Kitchen The Westlake Village foodie haven makes an expansive move. By Victoria Woodard Harvey Photographs by Gary Moss

By Joan Tapper

of Local Chefs By Greg Clarke

In Every Issue

18 Editor’s Note 22 Masthead 28 Behind the Scenes

Upgrades 65 Ahead of the Curve

Visit Us Online!

Bags go big this spring.

Fresh furniture designs have a new bent.

By Frances Ryan

48 TRAVEL

Taste 84 FOOD: On the Rise

Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Spotify, Apple, Google, and YouTube keyword: 805Living

By Jennie Nunn

46 STYLE: Fill ’Er Up

By Erin Rottman

Insider 52 Events In & Around the 805

By Heidi Dvorak

Local Voices 54 Emergent Eats

Purveyors of pop-up eateries share the challenges of being on the move and their secrets to creating a loyal following.

Arts & Culture 58 Feasts for the Eyes

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Focaccia is heating up in the 805 as local bakers infuse the traditional dimpled bread with flavor. By Jaime Lewis Photograph by Gary Moss

88 SPIRITS: Van Gogh

in a Glass Inspired by an ongoing Santa Barbara Museum of Art exhibit, area mixologists

805living.com

Check out our website for the free digital version of 805 Living (smartphone- and tablet-compatible, it’s also on issuu.com). Tune in to our free Spotify playlists (keyword: 805 Living) and 805 Living Eats podcasts available on Apple, Google, and Spotify (keyword: 805 Living Eats). Become an 805 Living Insider! Sign up to receive “The Insider,” our free mid-month newsletter that provides additional suggestions for local events and activities, lastminute getaway ideas, and little extras—like food and wine tips—to help you get through the month. Insiders will also receive special offers, contest news, event invitations, and more. Subscribe at 805living.com.

On the Cover Sandwiched between bacon- and herb-studded waffles, the warm liquid yolk of a fried egg cascades down onion rings, cherrywood-smoked bacon, and a grass-fed beef patty in the Babe at Newbury Park’s The Waffle Experience restaurant. Get details on this and other handheld meals in “ ’Wich Hunt,” on page 74. Photograph by Gary Moss

48: JOSH FRANER; 88 AND 92: GARY MOSS

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Editor’s Note

The Joy of Others Cooking

NEW ON OUR MENU The latest innovation at 805 Living magazine is On the Books, a periodic column showcasing books that highlight or are authored in the 805. Available in this issue, Joan Tapper on the release of Lotusland (page 62).

IF THAT OLD LEGEND IS TRUE about the fourth Earl of Sandwich requesting a dish he could eat while still gambling, then what became popularly known as a “sandwich” was indeed intended to put the diner’s needs ahead of any other consideration. Revolutionary, indeed. But the sandwich’s utilitarian nature has never hindered sandwich makers in their exploration of the endless and still-growing number of ingredients with which to build. This could not be any more apparent than right here in the 805, where chefs take their sandwiches seriously. In “ ’Wich Hunt,” (page 71), Lisa McKinnon shows how creative the local sandwich scene is. There are so many next-level varieties like the ones we found served throughout the Central Coast that we admit we’ve only scratched the surface. In this, our eighth annual Restaurant issue, sandwiches serve as a great metaphor for the dining-out industry as a whole. Restaurant openings and expansions continue despite challenging circumstances because our culinary community is passionate and determined to bring new concepts to fruition. Sure, it’s way more complicated than making a new sandwich, but the general principles still apply. The hard work, persistence, and level of detail involved in creating a memorable dining experience on any given day is something to be admired. But the resilience of the industry these last couple of years has been nothing short of amazing. _A nd if that’s not enough to convince anyone to head out for dinner with a smile, there’s this: To date, 805 Living ’s annual Dishing It Out for Charity Challenge presented by Montecito Bank & Trust has raised and contributed more than $127,000 for dozens of charitable organizations. Check out Pulse, page 35, to see how significant our most recent challenge was to that bottom line. _W hile you do that, I’m going to sneak away for a bit. I’ve found myself terribly hungry and have an overwhelming craving for a sandwich.

Lynne Andujar Editor in Chief & Publisher

GARY MOSS

edit@805living.com

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Retreat to Rosewood Miramar Beach’s chic and sophisticated cocktail bar serving handcrafted libations with a story to tell, delectable hors d’oeuvres, and live music every Thursday through Saturday.

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EDITOR IN CHIEF, PUBLISHER, & CEO

Lynne Andujar edit@805living.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

DESIGNER

PHOTO EDITOR

Bernard Scharf

Kathy Tomlinson

Sophie Patenaude

Gary Moss

photo@805living.com

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Heidi Dvorak, Jennie Nunn (Shopping), Erin Rottman (Travel), Frances Ryan (Fashion, Interior Design)

Victoria Woodard Harvey, Jaime Lewis, Lisa McKinnon, Nancy Ransohoff, Joan Tapper

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

RESEARCH EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

CONSULTING EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Greg Clarke Gary Moss

Tajinder Rehal Anthony Head

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Jennifer S. Vogelbach

Fashion, fine jewelry, home furnishings and design, insurance, mortgage, real estate jennifer@805living.com, 818-427-3496 ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVES

Diane Dreyer

Santa Barbara County wineries diane@805living.com, 818-879-3951

Amra Neal

Architects, attorneys, automotive, beauty, dining, education, entertainment, financial/banking, fitness, food and beverage, health, home builders, landscape, nonprofit organizations, senior living, travel amra@805living.com, 310-924-2631 ALL OTHER ADVERTISING QUERIES

jennifer@805living.com, 818-427-3496 ADVERTISING DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Sophie Patenaude, sophie@805living.com OPERATIONS MANAGER

Carmen Juarez-Leiva ACCOUNTING

Lori Kantor, lori@805living.com 805 Living is published 10 times a year and is a property of 3Digit Media, LLC. 3717 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Westlake Village, CA 91362 © 2022 3Digit Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

805 Living is a registered trademark. All rights reserved. 805 Living content may not be used or reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopy, without the express written permission of the publisher. 805 Living is not responsible for loss of or damage to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork, or any other unsolicited material. Unsolicited material will not be returned. 3Digit Media, LLC, and its affiliates, contributors, writers, editors, and publisher accept no responsibility for errors or omissions with information and/or advertisements contained herein. 3Digit Media’s liability in the event of an error is limited to a printed correction. 3Digit Media does not assume liability for products or services advertised herein and assumes no responsibility for claims made by the advertisers.

SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe to 805 Living, please visit 805living.com. Your domestic subscription includes 10 issues of 805 Living for $25.95. If you have a question about your subscription write to Circulation Department, 805 Living , 3717 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Westlake Village, CA 91362; or reach us via email at circulation@805living.com.

805 LIVING, MARCH 2022

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Behind the Scenes A little comfort goes a long way when it comes to coping with the new normal. Our contributors describe the local restaurant dish that is their go-to comfort food. Lisa McKinnon

A LIFE WELL LIVED. A LIFE WELL EARNED. Since 1998, Belmont Village has safely delivered an unparalleled senior living experience for thousands of families. Collaborations with experts from the nation’s top healthcare institutions and universities, including UCLA and USC, have established our national leadership in demonstrably effective cognitive health and wellness programs. Combining the highest levels of hospitality and care, our communities make life worth living.

“Chiles rellenos at Angela’s Restaurant in Lompoc never fail to lift my spirits,” says contributing writer Lisa McKinnon, (“ ’Wich Hunt,” page 74). “The peppers are very lightly battered on the outside and have lots of molten cheese inside. I order them as a combo plate for the full rice-and-refried-beans treatment.”

Nancy Ransohoff

“Pizza from Bettina in Montecito,” says contributing writer Nancy Ransohoff (Pulse, page 35, and “Culinary Reunion,” page 68). “I’ll happily take any of them, from the classic Margherita to the carbonara with pancetta and egg.”

Erin Rottman

Medication management with licensed nurse on-site 24/7 Circle of Friends® award-winning memory care Nationally-recognized, highly trained staff Dedicated Alzheimer’s care | Physical therapy, rehabilitation and fitness ©2022 Belmont Village, L.P. | RCFE 306005563, 197609518, 197608468, 197608466, 197608467, 565802433, 198601646, 197608291

“Cheese is my downfall, and I rarely cook pork at home” says travel editor Erin Rottman (Pulse, page 35, and Finds/ Travel, page 48), “so the Lomito Suizo—grilled marinated pork and melted cheese inside two corn tortillas—at La Super-Rica in Santa Barbara tops my list.”

RANSOHOFF: STEPHANIE BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY; ROTTMAN: NATHAN BILOWN

BelmontVillage.com/LosAngeles

“5 Stars! Beautiful Store. Quality Furniture”. Steve Thomas

• Google Review

Behind the Scenes Our featured experts name their favorite area-restaurant comfort foods.

“This store is a true local treasure.” – Shannon M. • YELP “Unique one-of-a-kind furniture and made so well.” – Carri N. • Camarillo “I drive up from LA to buy my furniture here. Great prices. Friendly staff .” – David S. • Venice

“Santa Ynez Billiards & Cafe’s falafel wrap. After a long day, there’s nothing more comforting.” —Michael Cherney

(Taste/Food, page 84) owner, executive chef Peasants Feast and Peasants Deli & Market Solvang peasantsfeast.com, peasantsdeli.com

Rustic Modern

California Casual

Mid Century

“The drunken noodles at Social Monk in Westlake Village: chilies and carbs together, yum!” —Sarah Bercusson

(Taste/Food, page 84) baker The Tuscan Bakery Thousand Oaks thetuscanbakery.com

Amish

Sustainable Bamboo

Since 1976

“I love Hip Vegan’s brown rice and lentils and burger [in Ojai]. You almost forget it’s meatless.” —Saw Naing

For Your Home California Style Furnishing

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“The pork quinoa bowl from Mouthful Eatery in Thousand Oaks. It’s an excellent balance of healthy with comfort.” —Graham Harris

(Dining Out, page 92) creator, owner Decker Kitchen Westlake Village deckerkitchen.com

CHERNEY: LENA BRITT PHOTOGRAPHY; NAING: MARINA SCHULTZ

(“Culinary Reunion,” page 68) partner, executive chef The Dutchess Ojai thedutchessojai.com

FIND OUT MORE

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Pinnacle Estate Properties, Inc. is a licensed real estate broker, and fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing and the Equal Opportunities Act. Information deemed reliable but not guaranteed. If your home is currently listed with another broker, please disregard this ad as it is not our intention to solicit the listings of other brokers.

Pulse

T R AC K I N G T H E B E AT O F T H E 8 0 5

Ramsey and Heidi Maune welcome fellow art enthusiasts to their new Santa Barbara gallery on State Street.

DESTINATION: COURTESY OF MAUNE CONTEMPORARY

ART APPRECIATION

After returning to live in the city of her alma mater, UC Santa Barbara, Heidi Maune and her husband Ramsey recently opened the Maune Contemporary (maune.com) gallery in the downtown arts district. In the new venture, the couple, who also own a gallery in Atlanta, will specialize in modern and contemporary art by renowned international artists and limited-edition fine art prints, while also offering art advisory and curatorial services. “Heidi has loved Santa Barbara since her days at UCSB, so this feels like a homecoming of sorts for us,” says Ramsey. The opening exhibit, Finally Home, is a group show of works by 17 artists from eight countries, which will run through April 15. Opening on April 22 is a solo show of works by contemporary artist Justin Lyons. —Nancy Ransohoff MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Pulse

PLANT-BASED CONVENIENCE

A fresh, new hub for plant-based foods is open in Montecito. PLNT PWRD MRKT (plntpwrdmrkt.com) offers a variety of curated vegan

packaged goods, drinks, and grab-and-go items. Owners Tim and Kamren Morton-Smith and Sam and Lauren Benon aim to make the airy, inviting space a one-stop shop for plant-based alternatives. The idea for the business was born when Kamren adopted a vegan diet about four years ago and was shopping for convenient choices. “Our goal at the market is to make plant-based options more accessible, introduce everyone—whether they’re plant-based or just plant-curious [eaters]—to fun new products, and make the discovery experience more approachable,” says Tim Morton-Smith. “We want our community to come in for some of the old favorites but also to discover new ones,” says Sam Benon. “We want to introduce [our customers] to the people and stories behind the products.” —N.R.

Carla Malloy now sells eggs and produce from her family-run Elder Flat Farm along with other local products at her homey Los Alamos store.

CUE THE MUSIC The simple thrill of live music is the driving beat behind the new Ventura Music Hall (venturamusichall.com), a renovated venue boasting a superlative sound system, ample dance floor space, and a seated area for food and drinks. “We hope to make this the living room of midtown, a down-home place to stroll in after work and catch a nationally touring or up-and-coming talent,”

When farmer Carla Malloy first saw a little old house that was built in Los Alamos in 1910, she knew it suited her vision for a community market. “I want people to feel like they could be walking into somebody’s kitchen,” says Malloy, who opened Elder Flat Farm store in the spot in December (elderflatfarm.com/the-farm-store-1). The 800-square-foot store contains eggs and produce from Malloy’s farm; nonperishable items like olive oils, pastas, pickles, and preserves; and fresh seasonal flowers. Also available are cured meats, cheeses—creations from Cowgirl Creamery and Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co.—and crackers, which Malloy will pack up in made-toorder gift baskets or picnic meals to go. Malloy sees the shop as an extension of her farm. “When I’m in the store selling lettuce, there’s just a greater connection with the food and the people who are eating it,” she says. “It means a lot.” —Erin Rottman

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Celtic-punk band Flogging Molly appears at the new Ventura Music Hall on the 26th of this month.

says Thomas Cussins, president of Ineffable Music, a coalition of artists, managers, and promoters that curates music and live events. “We fit in with both old and new Ventura,” says Cussins, who is a member of the partner group behind the hall along with local resident Bruce Flohr of Red Light Management, among others. The 2022 lineup of rock, Americana, indie, country, and reggae music rolls out this month with the crowd-pleasing band, G. Love & The Juice. A portion of all ticket sales is earmarked for the Ventura Music Festival, the first-ever recipient of Ventura Music Hall’s community give-back program. —Victoria Woodard Harvey

FROM TOP: COURESTY OF PLNT PWRD MRKT; MIKAELA HAMILTON; KATIE HOVLAND

FARM TO MARKET IN LOS ALAMOS

PRESENTED BY

In yet another astounding demonstration of generosity, local restaurants stepped up to the plate for the sixth annual 805 Living Dishing It Out for Charity Challenge in 2021, presented by Montecito Bank & Trust. Despite the catastrophic impact of the pandemic on their industry, 31 restaurants participated in November and December by donating $2 to the charity of their choosing for every order of their designated dish sold. With more eateries participating than ever before, the charitable contributions totaled $44,256—far more than ever before. 805 Living would like to offer special thanks to these communityminded establishments, who continue to give to others at a time when restaurants themselves need support more than ever. BANK OF ITALY COCKTAIL TRUST (bankofitalycocktails.com), Ventura, for Surfrider Foundation BASTA (bastaagoura.com), Agoura Hills, for Many Mansions BELL’S RESTAURANT (bellsrestaurant.com), Los Alamos, for No Kid Hungry BOB’S WELL BREAD BAKERY (bobswellbread.com), Ballard and Los Alamos, for the Breast Cancer Research Foundation BRASS BEAR BREWING & BISTRO (brassbearbrewing.com), Santa Barbara, for the Elings Park Foundation CARRARA’S (carraras.com/ moorpark), Moorpark, for Food Share of Ventura County CELLO RISTORANTE & BAR (allegrettovineyardresort.com), Paso Robles, for Bailliage de Central Coast COAST RANGE & VAQUERO BAR (coastrange.restaurant), Solvang, for People Helping People CREAMINAL ICE CREAM (creaminalicecream.com), Santa Barbara, for the Pancreatic Cancer Action Network CUYAMA BUCKORN (cuyamabuckhorn.com), New Cuyama, for The Foodbank of Santa Barbara County EL ENCANTO, A BELMOND HOTEL (belmond.com/ elencanto), Santa Barbara, for Santa Barbara Rescue Mission FINNEY’S CRAFTHOUSE (finneyscrafthouse.com), Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Ventura, and Westlake Village, for Support for the Kids FIRST & OAK (firstandoak.com), Solvang, for Feed the Valley GOAT TREE AT HOTEL CALIFORNIAN (goattreecafe.com), Santa Barbara, for Dream Foundation HELENA AVENUE BAKERY (helenaavenue bakery.com), Santa Barbara, for Direct Relief

LA PALOMA CAFÉ (lapalomasb.com), Santa Barbara, for Direct Relief THE LARK (thelarksb.com), Santa Barbara, for Direct Relief LOQUITA (loquitasb.com), Santa Barbara, for Direct Relief LOS OLIVOS WINE MERCHANT & CAFÉ (winemerchantcafe.com), Los Olivos, for Veggie Rescue LUCKY PENNY (luckypennysb.com), Santa Barbara, for Direct Relief MAD & VIN (madandvin.com), Solvang, for People Helping People MILK & HONEY TAPAS (milknhoneytapas.com), Santa Barbara, for Organic Soup Kitchen MOUTHFUL EATERY (mouthfuleatery.com), Thousand Oaks, for Every Child’s Dream Foundation OKU RESTAURANT (okurestaurant.com), Santa Barbara, for Unity Shoppe OLIO PIZZERIA (oliopizzeria.com), Santa Barbara, for Teddy Bear Cancer Foundation RINCON BREWERY (rinconbrewery. com), Carpinteria and Santa Barbara, for CALM, The Child Abuse Listening & Mediation program, and Ventura, for Kids and Families Together THE ROYAL EGG CAFÉ (theroyaleggcafe.com), Westlake Village, for the National Pediatric Cancer Foundation SEAR STEAKHOUSE (searsteakhouse.com), Solvang, for People Helping People THE SUNSET RESTAURANT (thesunsetrestaurant.com), Malibu, for The LucStrong Foundation THOMAS HILL ORGANICS (thomashillorganics.com), Paso Robles, for Big Brothers Big Sisters of San Luis Obispo County WOOD RANCH (woodranch.com), Agoura Hills, Camarillo, Moorpark, and Ventura, for Happy Trails Children’s Foundation 

Bring the inside out with beautiful new bi-folding doors by Andersen®

Agoura Sash & Door, Inc. agourasash.com

PTS FURNITURE HOM E A N D OF F IC E SHOW RO OM 250 Conejo Ridge Ave. Thousand Oaks, CA 91361 805-496-4804 Mon–Sat: 10 a.m.–4 p.m., Sun 12–4 p.m. | ptsfurniture.com

PTS FURNITURE HOM E A N D OF F IC E SHOW RO OM

250 Conejo Ridge Ave., Thousand Oaks, CA 91361 805-496-4804 Mon–Sat., 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sunday, 12 p.m.–4 p.m. | ptsfurniture.com

Finds S H O P P I N G / S T Y L E / T R AV EL

To a Tea A RECENT SURGE IN POPULARITY TAKES THE BRITS’ AFTERNOON TRADITION TO NEW HEIGHTS STATESIDE.

ISTOCK.COM/RUTH BLACK

By Jennie Nunn

Assemble a trendy mismatched cup collection at Anne Luther Antiques, where teapots, trays, spoons, and cake plates and servers also reside among an eclectic selection of antique books, jewelry, furnishings, and fine art; Anne Luther Antiques at Summerland Antique Collective, summerlandantiquecollective.com. Turn the page for more tea essentials.

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Finds

1. Versace “Butterfly Garden” tea cup and saucer ($325); Coast 2 Coast, Santa Barbara, c2ccollection.com. 2. Copper and glass tea storage box ($20); World Market: The Promenate at Westlake in Westlake Village, Oxnard, Santa Barbara, and San Luis Obsipo; worldmarket.com. 3. Coppermill Kitchen English tea kettle ($675); Anthropologie: Thousand Oaks, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park; anthropologie.com. 4. Astrology Collection “Capricorn Magic Hour” blend with organic Ti Quan Yin and Se Chung oolong teas, organic Fuji apple and pumpkin seeds, Vermont maple, and natural flavor extracts ($66); Magic Hour, Ojai, clubmagichour.com. 5. Rose gold tea ball infuser ($5); Crate and Barrel at The Village at Topanga, Woodland Hills, crateandbarrel.com. 6. “Mena” watercolor linen napkin ($10); Crate and Barrel at The Village at Topanga, Woodland Hills, crateandbarrel.com. 7. Julia Knight “Florentine Gold” three-tiered server in gold snow ($581); Bed Bath & Beyond, bedbathandneyond.com. 8. “Sucre” sugar jar ($24); Beautiful Mess Home & Garden, Agoura Hills, abeautifulmesshome.com. 

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

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Congratulations

TO OUR AWARD WINNING

AGENTS

#1 Small Team Nationwide HARE & ASSOCIATES

GRAND CENTURION®

DOUBLE CENTURION® TEAM

TRISHA PEREZ & ASSOCIATES

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#50 C21 Small Team Nationwide

#7 C21 Agent in California

DOUBLE CENTURION®

KAY WILSON-BOLTON #27 C21 Agent in California

JUDY LEWICKI

#36 C21 Agent in California

RAY DESILVA

#59 C21 Agent in California

CHRISTY RUECKERT #68 C21 Agent in California

Each office is independently owned and operated. CalBRE Lic. #01994886

Visit us at www.c21everest.com

CENTURION®

BLAKE MASHBURN

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Visit us at www.c21everest.com

Each office is independently owned and operated. CalBRE Lic. #01994886

LISA KOZIN

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ART PEREZ

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DEBBIE CURRAN

QUALITY SERVICE Producers

PRESIDENT’S AWARD

QUALITY SERVICE PINNACLE PRODUCER

WEN FERNANDEZ

LIXIN DURBOROW LESLIE MITSUUCHI

QUALITY SERVICE PRODUCER

In recognition of the importance of quality service to the profitability and success of a sales associate, the CENTURY 21® System presents the prestigious President’s Award to producers and teams achieving both CENTURION® level production and the Quality Service Pinnacle Award in the same year. ROSIE WILCOX

ART PEREZ

DEBBIE NICOLL

GABY ESPINOZA

Finds Style By Frances Ryan

Fill ’Er Up BAGS GO BIG THIS SPRING.

1. Christian Louboutin “Cabarock Small Miss Denim” in denim and leather ($1,290); Neiman Marcus, Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park, neimanmarcus.com. 2. Bottega Veneta “Arco” in leather with overlock stitching ($3,300); Elyse Walker, The Commons at Calabasas, elysewalker.com. 3. Green polyurethane tote with front pockets and side straps ($30); Zara, Thousand Oaks and Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park; zara.com. 4. “Bateau” in black with pacific, cherry, and parrot plaid woven-checker leather ($495); Clare V., Montecito Country Mart, clarev.com. 5. Salvatore Ferragamo “Travel” in pebbled leather ($1,290); Nordstrom, Thousand Oaks and Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park; nordstrom.com. 6. “Since 1854 Neverfull MM” in jacquard textile with leather trim ($2,230); Louis Vuitton, Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park, us.louisvuitton.com. 7. Versace “Greca”-print jacquard in canvas and leather ($1,025); Neiman Marcus, Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park, neimanmarcus.com. 8. The Sak “Los Feliz” in stone leather with tassels ($199); Macy’s, Thousand Oaks and Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park; macys.com. 9. “Softwhere” in rich navy quilted tech fabric ($198); katespade.com. 

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

For more, visit our Pinterest page, keyword: 805living.

Finds Travel By Erin Rottman

REDISCOVERING GOLD IN DENVER

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

The newest addition to Denver’s Downtown Historic District (renderings from top): The Thompson Hotel Denver; interiors allude to the American West; and Chez Maggy, a new restaurant by chef Ludo Lefebvre (inset), brings a taste of France.

RENDERINGS: PARTS + LABOR; LEFEBVRE: LIONEL DE LUY

iners started flocking to Denver after gold was discovered there in 1858, and gamblers, prostitutes, and saloonkeepers soon followed. By the late 1800s, the stretch of Market Street on which women called out, “Come on in, Dearie,” became known as The Row, Denver’s red-light district. Despite its sketchy reputation, the area boasts one of the best collections of late 19th and early 20th century architecture in the West, and in 1988, the Denver City Council named it the Lower Downtown Historic District. Today, LoDo is a happening urban neighborhood, anchored by three key venues: Union Station, which is as much a trendy shopping destination as it is a train depot; baseball’s Coors Field; and Ball Arena, a concert venue and home of the Denver Nuggets basketball and Colorado Avalanche ice hockey teams. One of the latest developments in LoDo’s revitalization is the completion of the Thompson Denver (hyatt.com, from $309) boutique hotel, which opened last month. The hotel is a microcosm of LoDo itself. Accommodations like the signature Thompson suite, with more than 1,000 square feet of living space, a private 400-square-foot deck, an indooroutdoor fireplace, and expansive views of the Rocky Mountains, recall the nearby warehouses that have been transformed into residential lofts. Reynard Social, a bar on the sixth floor, offers local beers and alpine-inspired small bites, like mushroom fondue and charcuterie boards, and features a listening lounge furnished with Victrola record players, camel-colored leather couches, and a billiards table. Guests may also check out portable record players from the lobby to use in their rooms or for a tailgate party. At street level sits Chez Maggy, Michelin-starred chef Ludo Lefebvre’s first restaurant outside of Southern California. The brasserie-style space, named after Lefebvre’s late mother-in-law, has a subtle art deco design with banquettes covered in rich, blue-velvet and floral-printed fabrics. Lefebvre, known for his Los Angeles restaurants, Petit Trois and the former Trois Mec, keeps the menu French with classics like bison tartar, chicken paillard, and steak frites, which his own mother used to make when he was growing up. “I’m not trying to do a revolution in Denver,” he says with a laugh. What may be revolutionary is Lefebvre’s take on a Denver omelet. Seeking to give it some French flair, Lefebvre tops it with a cream, Gruyère, and Parmesan sauce, that is much like a cheese fondue. “The texture of the eggs with the creamy cheese sauce is just heaven in the mouth,” he says. Fortunately for Thompson guests, Lefebvre is in charge of the room service menu, too. >

Rosemary can give you advice on improvements that will highlight your home’s strengths, downplay its weaknesses and appeal to the greatest possible pool of prospective buyers. Although the structure itself is often the deciding factor, many steps must be taken to enhance your home’s features and increase the likelihood of it selling faster. Innately understanding the finer points of caring for clients with high net worth, and even higher expectations, Rosemary utilizes multimedia print and digital internet advertising to masterfully unite sellers of the finest homes with quality buyers from across the globe. Look what Rosemary’s clients are saying: ... ting like Rosemary real estate marke NO ONE knows e Rosemary... NO ONE sells lik ... es like Rosemary ary! NO ONE advertis d sellers like Rosem ected to buyers an nn co is E ON NO y successful ential quality of an secret that an ess new relationships, ge for I’ve found it’s no ly on t no to n its ability done that business lies withi ll, Rosemary has d grow them as we reminder that the is n but to maintain an liso Al eer. Rosemary r financial throughout her car service matters, he tter, community ing an advobe d an r tte relationships ma ma ls ighborhood schoo rs. support of our ne tte s ma ts and their home cate for her clien Once we u get the picture... yo on but I think our buyer nd fou ly on I could go on and t no th Rosemary, she nections listed our home wi tising, but her con m her steller adver rchase our pu r he lp he within 2 weeks fro ld the lender who cou t “thank provided our buyer Allison, we canno 30 days. Rosemary not only n in tha s lism les na in sio me ho profes enough for your ough m” thr l tea tai ur de yo ry d an eve you each and was buyer but seeing get the job done to finding the right ty aci ten d an work ethic ed to you for seeing ebt to the end. Your ind r eve for ily and I are incredible. My fam this through. ghridge Court seller 11450 Hi — Ken Gill, home

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rosemaryallison@aol.com | callrosemary.com CalRE #00545184 Affiliated real estate agents are independent contractor sales associates, not employees. ©2022 Coldwell Banker. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker logos are trademarks of Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. The Coldwell Banker® System is comprised of company owned offices which are owned by a subsidiary of Realogy Brokerage Group LLC and franchised offices which are independently owned and operated. The Coldwell Banker System fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act.

Daily News Readers Choice

Finds Travel

1920S PARIS IN L.A.

SLEEP IN THE VINEYARD IN NAPA

ome 250 wines from across California light up the menu at Truss Restaurant + Bar at the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley (fourseasons.com/napavalley, from $1,200). The focus on wine is fitting, given that the resort sits in a working vineyard where cabernet sauvignon grapes grow. The restaurant’s wine list also dedicates a page to wines from Calistoga, says general manager Mehdi Eftekari. “We wanted to make sure to promote the Calistoga AVA,” he says. The resort encompasses 85 rooms; adult-only and family pools, both heated to 86°F year-round; and Spa Talisa, whose mineral-rich mud treatments are inspired by the area’s hot springs. Guests have priority access to the on-site Elusa tasting room, allowing for lots of sipping without any driving. Views of picturesque pools (top) at the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley give way to a sea of grapevine green. The on-site Truss Restaurant + Bar (above) boasts a wine list befitting its location in an operating vineyard.

Experience the wide open expanse of the desert landscape during a stay at AutoCamp’s fourth and newest location just outside of Joshua Tree National Park.

BOOK AN RV IN JOSHUA TREE

AutoCamp, which offers shiny Airstream trailers stocked with linens and cookware, has opened a

location at Joshua Tree (autocamp.com/joshua-tree, from $129), just a 10-minute drive from the national park. “Our goal has always been about connecting people to the outdoors, and Joshua Tree is such an otherworldly, once-in-a-lifetime location,” says AutoCamp spokesperson Taylor Micaela Davis. While the 25-acre property has a camping-like feel with its outdoor fire pits and grills, it offers the amenities of a hotel. An outdoor bar features beer, wine, and cocktails; a year-round pool is heated in the cooler months; a general store sells snacks and campfire supplies; and staff members contact guests prior to arrival to assist in setting up activities, like rock climbing. Plans are in the works for local experts to lead stargazing and fireside chats on medicinal native plants. 

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Please check CDC and local guidelines before traveling.

TOP, LEFT: JAKOB LAYMAN; TOP RIGHT GROUPING: FOUR SEASONS RESORT AND RESIDENCES NAPA VALLEY; BOTTOM, LEFT: JOSH FRANER

Los Angeles chef Ramon Bojorquez fancies Beurre de Baratte, a churned butter from Normandy that food critic Jonathan Gold once called a “cult item.” “You just can’t say no to French butter,” Bojorquez says. “That’s just wrong.” As executive chef of Lumière Brasserie at the recently renovated Fairmont Century Plaza in Century City (fairmontcenturyplaza.com, from $700), Bojorquez brings Parisianstyle classics to Los Angeles in dishes like steak frites, duck confit, and a French onion soup with seven thin layers of three Three kinds of cheese top French kinds of cheese. Other items, such Onion Soup at Lumière Brasserie at as the pear and pistachio salad, lean Century City’s Fairmont Century Plaza. toward California’s lighter style. The restaurant is a highlight of the hotel’s newly completed $2.5 billion renovation. For something extra special, book a room in Fairmont Gold, an experience that provides private check-in, access to the Gold Lounge, dedicated personal assistants, and an on-demand martini cart.

Insider EVENTS IN & AROUND THE 805 By Heidi Dvorak

Through March 26

March 13

MARIE SCHOEFF: AMPLIFYING THE BETWEEN

DANCING WITH THE STARS

Through May 8

Through 5/8

EN PLEIN AIR: AN EXPLORATION OF MALIBU AND VENTURA COUNTY

Santa Paula Art Museum. The purchase of works is encouraged at this art exhibition featuring the paintings of 32 members of the California Art Club, a century-old organization; santapaulaartmuseum.org. March 11 FRANZEN ORGAN RECITAL

3/24

Cal Lutheran University, Thousand Oaks. Daryl Robinson, assistant professor and director of organ studies at the University of Houston’s Moores School of Music, performs works from the 16th through 21st centuries, as well as music he has commissioned; callutheran.edu. March 12

Here’s an Idea: Get the candles ready between 8:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. on March 26 to honor the EARTH HOUR movement to raise climate crisis awareness. The movement that began in 2007 has since become a worldwide phenomenon with more than 190 participating countries and territories. If an hour of darkness isn’t practical, check the website for other ways to support the cause; earthhour.org.

BABY SHARK LIVE; 2022 SPLASH TOUR

The Granada, Santa Barbara. Join Baby Shark and his pal Pinkfong in the deep, blue sea for a rousing adventure accompanied by singing and dancing. Everyone is encouraged to join in during songs like, “Five Little Monkeys,” “The Wheels on the Bus,” “Jungle Boogie,” and “Monkey Banana Dance”; granadasb.org.

Bank of America Performing Arts Center Thousand Oaks. The iconic television series comes to the stage with hoofers Brandon Armstrong, Alan Bersten, Artem Chigvintsev, Sasha Farber, Daniella Karagach, Pasha Pashkov, Gleb Savchenko, Emma Slater, Britt Stewart, and others; bapacthousandoaks.com. March 18–20

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Lisa Smith Wengler Center for the Arts, Malibu. The legacies of iconic artists Bessie Smith, Billie Holiday, and Nina Simone are represented by three dynamic vocalists backed by an all-female band performing their classic songs; arts. pepperdine.edu.

SPRING HOME AND RV SHOW

Ventura County Fairgrounds. Before hitting the road or renovating a residence, check out this all-encompassing show to consult with experts on landscaping, fencing, pools, spas, outdoor and indoor furniture, pottery, window treatments, floors, shutters, cabinetry, and the latest recreational vehicles; fairsandfestivals.net.

March 26 FLOGGING MOLLY

Ventura County Music Hall. Just in time for St. Patrick’s Day, this Irish Amercian punk band performs its contagious, outrageous take on Celtic music. Also performing are Russkaja and Vandoliers; venturamusichall.com. March 31 SILKROAD: HOME WITHIN

March 18–April 10 STEEL MAGNOLIAS

Art Center Theater, Ojai. With a female director and an all-female cast, this stage play takes place in a quaint Louisiana town’s beauty parlor. It is a moving and remarkable story about the dynamics of the relationships between women; ojaiact.org. March 19 RANCHO CALIFORNIA GALA

The Fillmore on Central. Take a trip back in time when National Charity League Ventura County Chapter Juniors host a soiree in a Mission-style building constructed in the 1920s. The occasion benefits the Children’s Center for Cancer

For more on local events, click on Calendar at 805living.com.

March 24 BESSIE, BILLIE, AND NINA: PIONEERING WOMEN IN JAZZ

UC Santa Barbara. This multimedia performance presented by UC Santa Barbara Arts & Lectures is conceived by Syrian composer and clarinetist Kinan Azmeh and SyrianArmenian visual artist Kevork Mourad to represent their homeland in time of conflict; artsandlectures.ucsb.edu. 

TOP: WHILE JEFF SURFS THIRD POINT 9X12, ACRYLIC ON CRADLED BIRCH PANEL BY STEVE BROWN

Westmont Ridley-Tree Museum of Art, Santa Barbara. The titular artist and longtime Santa Barbara resident presents her multi-sheet prints and other works. Many are inspired by nature and spirituality; westmont.edu.

and Blood Diseases at Ventura County Medical Center; ncljuniorsventura.org.

Local Voices

Emergent Eats IT’S BECOME INCREASINGLY OBVIOUS THAT PROFESSIONAL CHEFS AND ARTISAN COOKS—WITH BIG DREAMS—LOVE THE POP-UP RESTAURANT CONCEPT. THERE IS FREEDOM IN KEEPING THE MENU SPECIALIZED, AND NEW CUSTOMERS (AS WELL AS OLD REGULARS) ARE ALWAYS SHOWING UP.

Dang Burger

What’s your specialty? We specialize in barbecue, but not in one certain style. We serve traditional barbecue, Hispanic, Asian, Island Fusion, German, and everything in between. Why do patrons follow your pop-up? We offer something different every weekend. We are introducing our guests to food inspired by cuisines from all over the world. What business logistic most challenges you? Trying to make sure it looks like we know what we are doing. All jokes aside, there are new challenges we face each week. What’s the future of your pop-up? It’s hard to say, with COVID‑19. But our motto is, if the guests keep coming, we will keep cooking. —Logan Sandoval chef/owner Zef BBQ Simi Valley (various locations) zefbbq.com

Why do patrons follow your pop-up? We pay close attention to all the elements in our burgers. We keep it simple and use really high-quality meat and other ingredients. We care about all of our customers and our community, and that shows in our service. What business logistic most challenges you? We’re essentially bringing an entire kitchen with us every time, and whatever we have there is what we have to sell. Sometimes we sell out earlier than we would like to. What’s the future of your pop-up? We want to open our own burger joint in the 805! —Emery Hickenbotham, Gil Craddock, Wyatt Craddock co-owners Dang Burger Carpinteria (various locations) dangburger.com

What’s your specialty? We make limited amounts of East Coast–inspired sourdough bagels, bialys, and schmears.

Eating with Jo What’s your specialty? Filipino American cuisine. My most popular dish is Pork Sisig: pork belly and shoulder sautéed with bird’s eye chili, red onion, and garlic in special shoyu sauce with fresh lime juice; it’s topped with chicharon, garlic aioli, and pickled veggies. Why do patrons follow your pop-up? Filipino food in Santa Barbara is hard to come by. I try to keep it fresh by featuring a different dish at every pop-up or by changing locations. What business logistic most challenges you? At the moment, the drastic inflation of pricing on goods. What’s the future of your pop-up? I want to continue to expand into a food truck and eventually my own brickand-mortar restaurant. —Joanna Lawlor owner/chef Eating with Jo Santa Barbara and Goleta (various locations) eatingwithjomarie.com

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Why do patrons follow your pop-up? We bring a different style of bagel to Santa Barbara: crunchy on the outside with a chewy middle. What business logistic most challenges you? We sell out often. Telling people we’re sold out is a little hard, but we also know that it keeps the product special. What’s the future of your pop up? We’re going to keep doing what we’re doing. We’re very fortunate to be able to run our little operation out of the brewery kitchen. It’s Saturday mornings only, which keeps it fun and manageable. —Bryan Foehl owner and chef The Bagel Boiz Third Window Brewing Co., Santa Barbara Instagram handle: @the_bagelboiz

SANDOVAL: ROBIN MOONEY PHOTOGRAPHY; CRADDOCK, CRADDOCK, AND HICKENBOTHAM: NOAH WOO; LAWLOR: ANDREW SCHOENER

Zef BBQ

The Bagel Boiz

What’s your specialty? We sell smash burgers influenced by the Oklahomastyle smash burger—with onions smashed into the patties—but with a Californiastyle build: shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, and Thousand Island sauce.

FOUR GREAT REASONS TO EAT OUT Lucky's is known for its exclusive selection of USDA Prime steaks, live Maine lobsters, no-nonsense cocktails, and world-class wine cellar. There’s no other eatery in Santa Barbara or Malibu that practices the art of serving a prime steak dinner better than Lucky’s. 1279 Coast Village Rd., Montecito 805-565-7540 | luckys-steakhouse.com 3835 Cross Creek Rd., Ste. 18, Malibu 310-317-0099| luckysmalibu.com

Creating genuine Italian cuisine with love and care is Tre Lune’s stock-in-trade. Diverse diners come for honest, high-quality Italian fare served in the lively Montecito dining room, which includes an homage to regulars in the form of tiny chairs that line the restaurant walls. Tre Lune is a yearly Wine Spectator-award winner. 1151 Coast Village Rd., Montecito 805-969-2646 | trelunesb.com

Joe’s Cafe is a local favorite for breakfast, an acclaimed American steakhouse, and upbeat bar that’s been the centerpiece of Santa Barbara’s dining, drinking, and socializing since 1928. 536 State St., Santa Barbara 805-966-4638 | joescafesb.com

D’Angelo Bakery is the kind of place locals love and visitors are overjoyed to find. Enjoy freshly baked European-style breads and pastries, great breakfasts and lunches, and strong Italian coffee. You will fall in love with this local decadence. 25 W Gutierrez St., Santa Barbara 805-962-5466 | dangelobakery.com

A DV E R T I S E M E N T

LIQUID FARM

BREWER-CLIFTON

LOS OLIVOS liquidfarm.com

LOS OLIVOS brewerclifton.com

CRAFT & CLUSTER

The name Liquid Farm describes the authentic nature of wine (liquid from farming), and reflects our strong belief that all great wines start in the vineyard. We allow our wines to develop on their own with little intervention, resulting in well-balanced, food-friendly wines. Come try our Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Rosé wines in our beautiful Los Olivos tasting room!

CARHARTT FAMILY WINES LOS OLIVOS carharttfamilywines.com

Brewer-Clifton was born from Greg Brewer’s vision to produce worldclass wines from California’s Sta. Rita Hills appellation. Focusing on the Burgundian roots of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Brewer pays homage to France while forging an independent style that is uniquely Californian. The resulting wines embrace the power, pedigree, and richness of Sta. Rita Hills that have become the trademark style of Brewer-Clifton.

WINE COUNTRY DAYS PASSPORT

LENA FREDRICKSON

Carhartt Family Wines is a family-owned and operated company that has been farming and winemaking in the Santa Ynez Valley for more than 25 years. As a direct-to-consumer brand, our wines are distributed primarily to our wine club, but are also available online and at our downtown Los Olivos tasting room. We value regenerative farming, sustainability, and producing wines from our estate with integrity and passion.

HOLUS BOLUS & THE JOY FANTASTIC

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY winecountrydays.com

LOS OLIVOS thejoyfantastic.com

From the cool ocean breeze off the coast of Santa Barbara to the warm rolling hills of the Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara Wine Country awaits you. Recently named Wine Region of the Year, your Wine Country Days Passport provides a wine-tasting experience at 22 of the best wineries—all within the 805. Order Your Wine Country Days Passport Today!

MICHAEL SHORT

CORDON OF SANTA BARBARA Winemaker Etienne Terlinden is forever intrigued with Santa Barbara County’s unique microclimates and their ability to produce fruit with distinct character. Etienne is involved in every phase of the wine-growing and winemaking process, managing the vineyards from where he sources his grapes and handcrafting small batches of beautifully balanced, expressive wines with a very certain Old World sensibility. Taste with us at 1623 Mission Drive.

CORDON WINE

SOLVANG cordonwine.com

Hello! We are Amy and Peter, owners of Holus Bolus Winery and The Joy Fantastic Vineyard. Our wines are made with love from organically farmed grapes in Santa Barbara County. Come visit us at our tasting room in Los Olivos where we will personally pour for you and answer all of your burning wine questions. We look forward to meeting you!

cabinetsense.com ZACA MESA WINERY & VINEYARDS

ALI BECK PHOTOGRAPHY

LOS OLIVOS zacamesa.com

From the third winery established in Santa Barbara County, enjoy delicious wine tastings from our Courtyard or Lounge & Terrace. Taste handcrafted, Rhône-style wines from our estate vineyard, or enjoy a TREAD Wines tasting, our collection of small-lot Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays sourced from esteemed Santa Barbara County vineyards. Private tastings and tours available by appointment. Our estate is family and dog friendly.

Design • Construct • Manage

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PIAZZA FAMILY WINES

Visit Our Showroom 2221 Madera Road, Simi Valley • 805.520.0168

Are you looking for a more intimate wine-tasting experience? Join us at the estate vineyard and winery in Ballard Canyon where you have the pleasure of tasting both Piazza Family Wines and Luna Hart Wines in an educational and private tasting. Under the gorgeous pepper trees overlooking the vines you will be guided through both brands wines with the winemaker, Gretchen Voelcker.

Arts & Culture By Joan Tapper

Beau Brown (bottom) got his start designing for Captain Fatty’s and created a mural for the company’s former Funk Zone location (below); his projects now often feature strong black outlines with pops of color.

Feasts for the Eyes HAND-PAINTED MURALS AND SIGNS LIVEN THE RESTAURANT SCENE.

here’s an old saying that you eat with your eyes, meaning that the visual appeal of a dish has a lot to do with its success. Owners of restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and bakeries have also long known that a painted backdrop can help establish a mood or set the scene for a delightful meal. It’s no surprise then that several artists in the 805 area are building careers by creating interior murals, large-scale wall art, and inviting outdoor signage for eateries and other businesses. Lisa Kelly (lisakellymurals.com), who grew up in Ventura and now lives on a boat in Ventura harbor, specializes in such murals—“from faux to figurative stuff,” she says. But her first job was mass-producing

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paintings for furniture stores. “I learned to paint— and paint fast,” she remembers. By the early 1990s she was exhibiting her own canvases at art shows when someone approached her about doing a wall portrait of him with his dog. That request turned into a year-long project painting murals in a residence in North Ranch. “I started doing restaurants in 2001,” says Kelly, who began with Yolanda’s in Camarillo. That connection has lasted for two decades as she’s provided atmospheric murals for the restaurant’s venues in Simi Valley, Oxnard, and Ventura, as well. For Lure Fish House in Santa Barbara, Kelly created a jellyfish wall, and she has painted in the chain’s other restaurants, too. “I’ve got the Lure >

FROM LEFT: PATRICIA CORTINA; LISA KELLY; SEAN RAYMOND COLLIER; SEAN RAYMOND COLLIER

Lisa Kelly applies color to a logo for Lure Fish House (left), one of her regular mural customers. Her work at the Stout Bourbon Room (above) graces a wall at The Yard in Ventura.

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Signs of good taste (left to right): A graphic wall for the SLO Public Market takes shape under Buddy Norton’s hand. Shelby Lowe works atop a scissor lift. Other examples of Canned Pineapple Co.’s work include mouthwatering lettering and images of a cheese shop’s wares on glass.

empire,” she jokes, adding that when the enterprise opened a place in Scottsdale, Arizona, they flew her there in a private plane. Once there, she quickly learned to arrange her workday around the 100-degree afternoon heat. Each job has its challenges. “Painting is the easy part,” Kelly notes. She recently did some work at Stout Burgers & Beers in Ventura. The copper ceiling and faux cement wall were straightforward enough. But painting a couple of antique-looking signs outside meant getting into a boom lift and maneuvering it between guys in the garden. “It was like threading a needle with an elephant!” she says. Arizona native Beau Brown (beaubrowndesign. com) came to Santa Barbara to attend Westmont College and never left. He got a degree in fine art and after graduation started working at Captain Fatty’s Brewery in Goleta, beginning with bartending and eventually designing labels and merchandise and painting a mural in the bar’s Funk Zone space. Brown left the company to pursue his own art a few months before the pandemic, and his day-to-day work now includes graphic design and branding as well as large-scale projects. That includes a sign for High Seas Mead, which is opening a bar and tasting room in the Funk Zone for its new alcoholic beverage, a fermented honey wine. “I tend to work with smaller local businesses,” Brown says, “often new ones or those wanting to rebrand.” Tackling large wall spaces was a bit daunting at first,” he notes. “I remember looking up at a big wall in a taproom that was 35 by 15 feet; the middle was 9 or 10 feet up.” But the process has become less stressful. “Preparation is your friend,” he says. He’s especially pleased with his mural for a small restaurant in Isla Vista, Lao Wang’s Street Food, which depicts “the view out to Coal Point,” he says. 60

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“The wall turns a corner, and there’s a girl on a bike with a longboard going out to surf. It represents the scene on the bluffs. I did it in three colors with high and low lights and outlined in black. I think it captures I.V. life.” Buddy Norton and Shelby Lowe, the couple behind Canned Pineapple Co. (cannedpineappleco.com) sign and wall art, took up mural painting through a different route. Norton, who was raised in San Luis Obispo, had studied art all through high school and community college, but school wasn’t for him. He got a job in a conventional sign shop, then apprenticed with a hand-painter who specialized in lettering and gold leaf. Lowe had grown up doing art in Northern California but was working in another field when she met Norton. After the two began dating, they started their business, but unsure about finding steady work while rooted in one area, they built out a van and took to the road, painting elsewhere for six months each year. “Canned Pineapple began with lettering-heavy work,” says Norton. “Over the past two years there’s more imagery involved.” “We’re unique in that we do gold leaf,” adds Lowe. “It’s a difficult process. If you make one mistake, you can ruin the work.” The couple produced their first mural four years ago— the SLO Irresistible wall for the Creamery Marketplace. One of their biggest challenges since then has been painting an archway for the city of San Luis Obispo. “There was no wall surface,” Norton remembers. “We had to lean into the uniqueness of the structure.” Last year, for the San Luis Obispo Public Market— which houses establishments like Brooks’ Burgers, California Tacos Cantina and Distillery, Jay Bird’s Nashville hot chicken, and the Night Shift Cookie Co.—they came up with a slat wall that shows different images on each side. If you walk one way, you see a vase, flowing vines, and howling coyotes. In the other direction there are gradually changing colors. “That was fun and interactive,” says Norton. “Any time we get to do original work, that’s a favorite.” 

COURTESY OF CANNED PINEAPPLE CO.

Arts & Culture

Start your wine tasting experience with Santa Barbara News-Press winner for Best Winery and Best Tasting Room. This spring we’re sippin’ on Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Red Blends, Albarino, Chardonnay, and Malvasia Bianca.

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On the Books By Joan Tapper

Garden Glory

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After several years of renovation, the Japanese Garden (top) reopened in 2019 with a scenic overlook and more accessible paths, among other improvements. The reflecting pond teems with koi, while a Japanese black pine focuses interest on the little island. One of 30 stone lanterns flanks the graceful walkway. A new coffeetable book (above) recounts the garden’s history. The

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n 1941, when Madame Ganna Walska, a much-married Polish-born opera singer, bought a 37-acre estate in Montecito, she envisioned it as a sanctuary for Tibetan monks. That never came to pass. Instead, for the rest of her life she used her artistic imagination, her dramatic flair, and her considerable wealth to transform the place into Lotusland—a world-renowned horticultural showpiece, home to some 3,400 types of plants, including rare and endangered species. Since 1993, visitors have been able to follow the garden’s winding paths from startlingly massed cacti to serene corners of the Japanese garden, and from the placid lotus pond to a whimsical collection of topiary. Now, thanks to Lotusland (Rizzoli, 2022), with photography by Lisa Romerein and an introduction by Marc Appleton, we can all savor this living treasure, from its brilliant conception to its exquisite details.

Bromeliad Gardens (right) showcase more than 320 kinds of the versatile plants, which grow throughout the New World in habitats that range from deserts to rainforests. In a photo from 1957 (far right) Madame Ganna Walska surveys part of her cactus and Euphorbia collection. Her innovative and signature designs for Lotusland included massing specimens in unexpected ways.

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A NEW, 288-PAGE, PHOTO-RICH VOLUME REVEALS THE BOTANICAL WONDERS OF LOTUSLAND.

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The arched branches of the octopus cactus (right), which can reach 30 feet long, add an otherworldly touch to the Dunlap Cactus Garden, a private collection that was added to Lotusland in 2003.

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 Bright with color at the height of summer, the water garden (above) includes free-form water lily ponds. Before Ganna Walska bought the estate, this was a swimming pool, and the pink building at the back was a bath house. Signs of the zodiac punctuate a floral clock (right) that features compact succulents. Topiary animals form a smile-inducing backdrop.

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MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

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Upgrades

Ahead of the Curve THE LATEST FURNITURE DESIGNS HAVE A NEW BENT. By Frances Ryan A classic canopy from Crate & Barrel takes a new turn. For details, turn the page. MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Upgrades

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1. Uttermost “Vagabond” wall art in gold leaf–finished iron and back-painted white glass ($1,167); Cabana Home, Santa Barbara, cabanahome.com. 2. Arteriors “Bahati” linen chair with hand-forged iron ($1,420); The Sofa Guy, Thousand Oaks, thesofaguy.com. 3. “Hale” metal and marble double-light task lamp ($163); For Your Home Furniture, Ventura, fyhfurn.com. 4. “Gracia” steel canopy upholstered bed with leather detail ($1,799 to $1,999); Crate & Barrel, The Village at Topanga in Woodland Hills, crateandbarrel.com. 5. Hickory White “Valley” cocktail table in ash wood (price upon request); Alderman Bushé, Thousand Oaks, aldermanbusheinteriors.com. 6. Regina Andrew “Nathan” stainless steel side table in brass finish ($1,740); Cabana Home, Santa Barbara, cabanahome.com. 7. “Herbin” lounge chair with sculptural wooden frame (from $998); Anthropologie: Thousand Oaks, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and Westfield Topanga in Canoga Park; anthropologie.com. 8. Interlude Home “Dana” right chaise in ecru faux linen (price upon request); The Sofa Guy, Thousand Oaks, thesofaguy.com. 

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

For more, visit our Pinterest page, keyword: 805living.

Culinary

Reunion

A team of veteran restaurant professionals reconnects and rejoins to bring baked goods and Burmese-Californian fare to Ojai. 68

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BY NANCY RANSOHOFF PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MOSS

A talented group of partners collaborates at Ojai’s new The Dutchess restaurant (above; from left): pastry chef Kelsey Brito, baker Zoe Nathan, executive chef Saw Naing, and head baker Kate Pepper. Fresh from the oven come goods like citrusy tea cakes (right) and crusty vehicles for layers of Italian-style meats (top, right). The local catch (below) determines the day’s seafood special.

Naing uses selections from his colorful spice tray (above) to flavor dishes like his take on biryani, which he tops elegantly with puff pastry (opposite).

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WHEN RESTAURATEURS ZOE NATHAN AND JOSH LOEB

moved their young family to an Ojai-area farm in 2020, they had no intention of opening another restaurant. The couple, who co-own the acclaimed Rustic Canyon Family of eight eateries in Santa Monica, got busy on their three-and-a-half acre parcel in Meiners Oaks just west of Ojai, which they named 50/50 Farm, with the goals of revitalizing the land through a variety of regenerative farming methods, growing organic produce for their restaurants, and ultimately giving half of the farm’s bounty to people in need. In the process, Nathan and Loeb became inspired by the vibrant local community of farmers, purveyors, and artisans, while also reconnecting with former members of the Rustic Canyon team who had moved to the Ojai area—longtime collaborator and pastry chef Kelsey Brito, local baker Kate Pepper, and chef Saw Naing, the former chef of Rustic Canyon Family eatery Tallula’s. In a bit of serendipity, the space previously occupied by Azu restaurant in the heart of town became available. The group gradually decided to partner in the opening of The Dutchess, an all-day bakery, café, and BurmeseCalifornian restaurant. “It’s a funny time to open a restaurant,” says Nathan. “As we hopefully near the end of this pandemic, though, we all want to connect. We want nourishment; we want to feel that generosity. There’s something really special about opening our doors and saying ‘Come on in, and let us feed you. And, let’s drink, and let’s be a little too loud and have fun!’ ” Though this is Nathan’s tenth restaurant opening, she says, “It feels really different because at every other place we’ve opened, I’ve been in the kitchen. This is the first time I’ve been in a position to be a cheerleader for my partners, to bring a bunch of supertalented people together and be able to light their torch and let them do what they want to do. They’re all cooking from the heart.” And their days start early. At 3:30 a.m., Brito and Pepper, fellow alumnae of Rustic Canyon eatery Milo + Olive, arrive to fire up the ovens, usually with four other bakers. By 7 a.m., guests are lined up to sip locally roasted Bonito coffee and peruse the pastry case, piled high with fresh-baked croissants, scones, muffins, buns, rolls, tea cakes, and breads. “My inspiration comes from seasonal fruits,” says Brito. “I want the pastry case always to be representative of what you can get at the farmers market. So right now, it’s things like rhubarb 70

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and passion fruit. And, our friend Chris [local farmer Chris Everett] is growing these awesome carrots, so I’ll make a carrot cake.” Brito and Pepper lend a full-circle note to the enterprise, as the 1926-era building sits on the site of Ojai’s first bakery; the spot has served four different bakery owners since the late 1800s. The name of the new establishment derives from the original bread oven on the premises, the front of which now anchors the middle dining room as a brick fireplace with “The Dutchess” still inscribed on it. Vintage treasures, antiques, and unique finds are key parts of the restaurant’s fresh, airy design, which was fashioned by Sylvia Friedel and Wells Butler (Nathan’s sister-in-law) of Hunter & Davis interior design studio. Dark wood-beamed ceilings top cream-colored adobe walls in a light-filled front room with large bay windows and wooden tables sourced from Pasadena’s Rose Bowl Flea Market. Textured glass globe pendants over the original wooden bar flaunt clusters of brass butterflies, symbols of the soul, according to Burmese mythology. Ivory linen banquettes front a central dining room flanked by a long wall covered in floral wallpaper.

In a nod to community meetings and special events that were held inside the historic building over the decades, a back room houses cozy lounge seating, communal tables, a second full bar, and a pool table. Large doors open to a vine-draped patio, where colorful Burmese umbrellas hang from a ceiling trellis. An adjoining covered area is earmarked for private events. At the time of this writing, the restaurant closes at 1 p.m. and reopens at 4:30 p.m. for dinner, but plans are in the works to add lunch service. As late afternoon approaches, the bar manager, Naing’s wife, Brittany Haskins-Naing, blasts “Eye of the Tiger” over the sound system, and team members get pumped up. She readies her well-stocked bar to offer market-driven cocktails and regional craft beers that include a selection from Ojai Valley Brewery. The wine list, curated by Loeb and Bob Huey, owner of Ojai’s Point de Chêne wine shop, focuses on small-production wines from the Central Coast and the two men’s favorite winemakers from around the world. Front-of-house staff puts finishing touches on table settings, and candles are lit. >

Seasonal farm pickings get brined to make the Duncan’s Spicy Pickles dish (left). Chef de cuisine Vinny Franco (above) spoons in the flavor. Accommodations are available for private events (top, right). Rosewater glaze dribbles down a Passion Fruit Chiffon Cake sprinkled with edible flower petals (right). Naing nurses a bubbling pot at the stove (opposite).

Guests settle in at the well-stocked bar (left). Coffee drinks (above, left) are made from locally roasted Bonito beans. Pepper ushers a flatbread topper into the oven for roasting.

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Baguettes are at the ready in the kitchen (above) as patrons get comfortable in a dining room (below).

Tea leaves are fermented in-house for the traditional Tea Leaf Salad, which also features Salanova lettuce from Nathan and Loeb’s farm.

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Chef Saw Naing’s cooking represents his personal story with his take on Burmese food. “My dream has always been to cook the food that I remember from growing up in Burma,” he says. “Burmese food is straightforward. It’s really important that you use what you have.” He notes that his Indian grandmother, with whom he grew up cooking, had no refrigerator. To maintain a low carbon footprint and support the local farming community, most of the ingredients for Naing’s innovative, classic-with-a-twist menu come from within 50 miles of the restaurant. Dishes at The Dutchess are meant for sharing. Diners can start with finger foods, such as Chickpea Fritters with sweet and sour tamarind sauce, or naan, tandoori oven bread, with garlic herb butter. Rangoon 19 St. Wooden Skewers, strung with organic chicken tikka, grass-fed beef satay, or seasonal vegetables, are an ode to Naing’s upbringing. “When I was a teenager, I’d go with my friends,” he says, “and after 6 p.m. the whole street

was all vendors selling skewers. They would change every day, depending on what vegetables were in season.” Among the Burma classics is Tea Leaf Salad, a play of flavors and textures: house-fermented tea leaves, napa cabbage, Salanova lettuce from 50/50 Farm, tomatoes from Tutti Frutti Farms in Santa Rita Hills, sesame seeds, peanuts, and fried shallots and garlic. For his biryani, Naing combines yogurt-marinated Sonoma ground lamb, basmati rice, cashews, a warm spice blend, and raisins, and cloaks it all in house-made puff pastry. Coconut Chickpea Curry, Motley Crew Ranch Quail Kabob, and Organic Half Tandoori Chicken round out the entrée options. Evening specials showcase exceptional ingredients, as in the case of a whole roasted vermillion rock cod made with fresh catch from Real Good Fish’s Eric Hodge. Kelsey Brito creates an evolving list of South-Asian inspired desserts, like Passion Fruit Lassi Pie with a gingersnap crust. As the welcoming and lively space becomes a gathering place once again, it’s clear that Ojai stands to benefit from the relocation of this group of culinary artists. 

Nathan (opposite, right) tends the bakery counter, which brims (above) with morning pastries, tarts, and other offerings with names like Seasonal Fruit Crumb Cake, Brown Butter Chocolate Chunk Cookies, and Flourless Chocolate Walnut Torte.

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A DOZEN LOCAL EATERIES ANSWER THE CALL FOR EXTRAORDINARY FOOD THAT YOU CAN WRAP YOUR HANDS AROUND.

Sandos. Sammies. Handhelds. Whatever you call them, sandwiches have stood the test of time—and the whims of culinary trends—to secure a forever spot on menus everywhere from the humblest of back-of-the-liquor-store deli counters to the tables of Michelin star–winning restaurants. But, is it our imagination, or do sandwiches seem especially suited to these times? Their portability makes them perfect for takeout orders, while their anything-goes flexibility in terms of ingredients can help chefs turn supply-chain issues (and the question, “What if we tried … ?”) into stacks of eye-popping creativity. Pull up a napkin as we bite into the 805’s sandwich scene, with help from some of its most interesting movers, shakers, and condiment makers. BY LISA McKINNON PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MOSS

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Café BÕKU

Ojai / cafeboku.com Beaucoup ingredients go into the VLT at Café BōKU, opened in November by Lynn and Reno Rollé, founders of BōKU Superfoods (bokusuperfood.com). The vegan BLT starts with zucchini ribbons marinated in a sauce made with the brand’s signature blend of 55 superfoods—among which are kelp and goji berry—for a smoky flavor to rival bacon. Next come the L (lettuce), the T (tomato), and a dressing of vegan mayonnaise mixed with BōKU’s Umami Super Spice Seasoning, which includes a pinch of Super ’Shrooms, BōKU’s blend of 20 fungi. The final component: sourdough from nearby Ojai Rôtie (ojairotie.com) restaurant or gluten-free bread. Sandwich shout-out: The Rollés follow a mostly plant-based diet now, but Lynn remembers going to The Honor Bar (honorbar.com) in Montecito for its Ding’s Crispy Chicken Sandwich, served in three enormous pieces. “We always saved one piece to take home,” she says.

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Alessia Patisserie + Café Santa Barbara / alessiapatisserie.com

Leave it to a self-trained pastry chef from a family of restaurateurs to dream up a Duck Confit Sandwich that puts tender, savory duck on lightly crunchy, slightly sweet cinnamon-walnut bread, then adds sauteed mushrooms, Dijonnaise, onion jam, and bright, peppery arugula. “I wasn’t sure how it would be received, but it’s become a staple,” says owner Alessia Guehr of the lunch-menu favorite inspired by her parents, Brigitte Guehr and Norbert Schulz, formerly of the Santa Barbara restaurants Brigitte’s and The Nook. Sandwich shout-out: Guehr’s personal rotation includes a mustard and herb-crusted beef sandwich from The Lucky Hen Larder (theluckyhenlarder.com) in Santa Ynez and the Metro Firehouse at Metropulos Fine Foods Merchant (metrofinefoods.com) in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone.

High Street Market & Deli Baywood Park, San Luis Obispo / highstdeli.com

If you missed the Golden Boy Sandwich’s appearance at the market’s original High Street location, take heart: owner Doobie Coates is making it a Fridays-only special at the Baywood Park site he added last summer. Inspired by the Detroitstyle deep-dish pizzas he once waited in line for at Golden Boy Pizza (goldenboypizza.com) in San Francisco, it features Papa Cantella’s Italian sausage, crispy pepperoni, herbed mozzarella, parmigiana, and house-made red sauce baked on a French roll accented with basil-ranch dressing and shrettuce, aka shredded lettuce. Sandwiches at either location can be ordered “Make it Stoney”-style, giving their maker your carte blanche to add extra ingredients of their choosing. Sandwich shout-out: “The Shrimp BLT I had at Nepenthe (nepenthe.com) in Big Sur recently stands out,” says Coates, who praises the restaurant for having “the best view on the coast.”

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Broad Street Oyster Co. Malibu, Santa Barbara / broadstreetoyster.com

For those times when an ordinary lobster roll just won’t do, head to this order-at-the-counter spot where the Connecticut-Style Lobster Roll (warm, with butter) and Maine-Style Lobster Roll (chilled, with mayo) await all the add-ons that your toasted brioche bun—and wallet—can take: sea urchin from Santa Barbara-based diver Stephanie Mutz, caviar from the Thomas Keller co-owned Regiis Ova, and, yes, extra lobster. Sandwich shout-out: Owner Christopher Tompkins, who in January unveiled the Santa Barbara location inside the Kim’s Service Dept. building on State Street, has a soft spot for tri-tip sandwiches from a local landmark: “Aside from the memorable experience you’ll have driving up the valley to Cold Spring Tavern (coldspringtavern.com), this is by far the best sandwich you’ll have in the 805.”

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The Waffle Experience Newbury Park / thewaffleexperience.com

Topped with house-braised pork belly and an optional fried egg, the Ultimate Babe waffle sandwich is so over-the-top it starred in a 2019 episode of “Man vs. Food.” But the unadorned Babe means business, too, mounding a grassfed beef patty with barbecue pulled pork, cherrywood-smoked bacon, onion rings, and white cheddar on an herbed waffle that’s also studded with bacon. (The restaurant makes its own yeastbased brioche dough Liège waffles.) Other full-meal sandwiches at the Sacramentobased chain’s first SoCal location—opened in June by Conejo Valley residents Kenneth and Bora Connell—include the Sacramento King, a savory pileup of house-smoked salmon, hard-boiled egg, caper cream cheese, and basil aioli on a crackedpepper herb waffle. Sandwich shout-out: “Mendocino Farms (mendocinofarms.com) has a Peruvian Steak Sandwich that’s loaded with flavor,” says Kenneth.

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Finney’s Crafthouse & Kitchen

Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Ventura, Westlake Village / finneyscrafthouse.com With three new locations opening this year, including one in Camarillo, this familyowned restaurant group is living large. The same can be said for its Blackened Ahi Sandwich, starring a generous cut of tuna seasoned with a house-made version of shichimi togarashi, a blend of nori and ground chiles. A wasabi-mustard aioli created by corporate executive chef Eric BosRau complements the lingering heat of the peppers, while coleslaw and avocado help cool things down. The telera roll (a soft, flat Mexican-style bread) is sturdy enough to pick up but doesn’t overshadow the seared tuna at the center of it all. Sandwich shout-out: “Bell’s Restaurant (bellsrestaurant.com) in Los Alamos has an amazing braised beef-cheek sandwich that is out of this world,” says BosRau.

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Smokin’ Jay’s

Oxnard / instagram.com/smokin_jays_805 The Philly Drip Sando went from pop-up favorite to menu mainstay in November, when touring sound engineer-turned-food truck operator Jay Hernandez opened his Channel Islands Harbor food-court restaurant just steps from the water. It features spiral-cut rib eye on a soft hoagie topped with ingredients both traditional (onions, bell peppers, provolone cheese) and unique (Hernandez’ signature Hot Chicken tenders) and drizzled with Gouda macaroni and cheese and the Comeback Sauce he sells by the jar. Smoked meat sandwiches, smash burgers, and a dry-rubbed Nashville Hot Chicken Sando are also on the menu. Follow on Instagram for news about the special-occasion arrival of multicolored buns for Pretty Patties Sandos inspired by “SpongeBob SquarePants.” Sandwich shout-out: “I view burgers as sandwiches, and the OBC (Ojai Beverage Company; ojaibevco.com) in Ojai has a lot of my favorites,” says Hernandez. On his list: The Firehouse, made with ghost pepper aioli.

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Peasants Deli & Market Peasants Feast

Solvang / peasantsdeli.com and peasantsfeast.com Michael Cherney’s sandwiches are inspired by the Jewish delis of his childhood and elevated by his experiences as a classically trained chef. “I don’t think anyone else is using Kobe beef from Snake River Farms on a sandwich,” a winking Cherney says of his horseradish aioli–accented House-Roasted Kobe Beef served on bespoke sesame French rolls from Bob’s Well Bread (bobswellbread.com) and available at the counter-service deli he and wife Sarah Cherney unveiled in January. Meanwhile, at the sit-down restaurant the couple opened on the same street in 2020, Peasant’s Feast, the menu includes a luxurious take on the traditional lox and bagels: a Pastrami-Smoked Salmon Sandwich with whipped cream cheese and capers on a soft sesame brioche bun from The Baker’s Table (thebakers-table.com) in Santa Ynez. The restaurant’s Instagram-famous Solvang Hot Chicken Sandwich is a spicy handful. Sandwich shout-out: As a chef and a diner, Cherney appreciates The Wilby at Industrial Eats (industrialeats.com) in Buellton. Made with rosemary-garlic ham, cheddar, scallions, and mustard, it’s joined by a Little Gem salad with an acidic dressing “to cut through all that rich pork fat,” Cherney says. “So-o-o good! Even better, I don’t have to make it myself.”

The Royal Egg Café

Westlake Village / theroyaleggcafe.com Bree and Jaron Gugliuzza both come from fine-dining backgrounds, so it’s no surprise that the married chefs look beyond everyday ketchup and mayo when making sandwiches at the café they opened in 2019. Their Crispy Pork Belly Sandwich includes a fried egg and aged Vermont white cheddar on brioche, plus the dynamic duo of house-made tomato jam and black-garlic aioli. Other creative condiments include romesco aioli (a mayonnaise flavored with a Spanishstyle tomato and red pepper sauce) on the café’s organic Jidori Chicken Club and a 48-hour cabernet demi-glace on its Kobe Beef Burger. Sandwich shout-out: The Gugliuzzas are partial to the short rib torta from Bad Ass Street Tacos (badassstreettacos.com) in Thousand Oaks. Says Bree: “We love the combination of flavors and authenticity.”

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Fala Bar

Santa Barbara / falabar.com Found inside Santa Barbara Public Market, Fala Bar specializes in falafel, deep-fried chickpea fritters that are plant-based but far from garden-variety. Witness the Falafel Sandwich, made with your choice of up to two of the restaurant’s five falafel flavors: original chickpea, sweet potato with chickpea, kale with chickpea, “crunchy,” and “spicy,” the latter involving red peppers and jalapeño. “I like to combine the spicy and the kale, but we have a following for each flavor,” says owner Fardad Rahimian. Sandwiches include hummus, tahini, and cucumber salad with four falafel balls and warm, house-made pita bread. Cabbage leaves are a gluten-free alternative. Sandwich shout-out: “The I.V. Deli Mart (ivdelimart.com) has a veggie sub that I really like,” says Rahimian.

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Eye on I

Lompoc / theeyeoni.com

Uncle Af’s

Agoura Hills / uncleaf.com “Make it creative” was the credo when Ben Shams and his father, Arshin—aka Uncle Af—were developing the menu for the family-friendly restaurant they opened in 2017. The Sweet Spot, a lightly toasted combination of Nutella, bananas, Oreo cookie crusts, and marshmallow fluff on whole-wheat ciabatta, certainly hits the, well, spot. Prefer something savory? Go with Chicken Firecracker, a panino packed with chicken breast and firecracker bacon, the latter marinated overnight in a sweet-spicy sauce before it hits the pan. Sandwich shout-out: “When I want old-school deli, I go to Italia Deli & Bakery (italiadeli.com) right across the street. The people there are very nice, and they make a great Italian cold cuts sandwich,” says Ben.

“Flavor bomb.” That’s how Heather Hovey describes her Koji Fried Chicken Sandwich, a breakout hit at the restaurant she opened a year ago with Industrial Eats cofounder Jeff Olsson. A fan of fermentation, Hovey uses koji—a fungus that in Japanese cuisine is the foundation for everything from miso to sake—to cure organic chicken for three days before it’s fried in rice-bran oil, tossed in lacto-fermented honey water, and served with slaw, sriracha, turmericpickled seasonal vegetables, and puccia bread (a round Italian flatbread) hot from the wood-fire pizza oven. Check the butcher-paper menus for special appearances by a cheesy Meatball Sub on baguette and BBQ Pork on brioche with chipotle mayonnaise. Sandwich shout-out: “I love the banh mi at Industrial Eats (industrialeats.com). That’s a flavor bomb, too,” says Hovey, who worked at the Buellton restaurant before heading to Old Town Lompoc. 

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Taste FOOD / WINE / DINING OUT

On The Rise

FOCACCIA IS HEATING UP IN THE 805 AS LOCAL BAKERS INFUSE THE TRADITIONAL DIMPLED BREAD WITH FLAVOR. By Jaime Lewis

OLIVE, CAPER, AND ROSEMARY FOCACCIA “This is my most popular focaccia,” Bercusson says. “It sells out every time.” She credits the bread’s popularity to its Castelvetrano olives, salty capers, and rosemary-steeped oil. Bercusson suggests serving slices of it alongside cheese and charcuterie plates. Makes an 18x13-inch flatbread DOUGH 2 sprigs rosemary ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon whole milk 3¼ cups plus 3 tablespoons 00 flour ¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1¼ teaspoons brewer’s yeast (dry) 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt 1½ cups tepid water Olive oil spray TOPPING 30 green olives (Bercusson uses Mezzetta brand)

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1 3-4

“In Italy, it’s very much the normal habit to go to the forno [bakery] to buy the bread for the day,” she says. “We often bought focaccia, because it’s so delicious: slightly less airy than a Tuscan loaf and flavorful, because it includes so much olive oil.” At The Tuscan Bakery, Bercusson specializes in traditional savory focaccia as well as sweet focaccia, made with seasonal ingredients. Up the coast in Arroyo Grande, pastry chef Matthew Molacek makes focaccia at Ember (emberwoodfire.com) using his own levain, or natural yeast starter. Here, he and Bercusson share a few favorite focaccia recipes, including Molacek’s guide to starting your own levain at home.

Nonpareil capers to taste rosemary sprig tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt to taste

To make dough: Place two sprigs of rosemary in a small frying pan or saucepan and cover them with olive oil. Set pan over a low heat and bring oil to a simmer. Simmer for a couple of minutes. Remove from heat and let oil cool in pan. Coat large bowl lightly with olive oil spray; set aside. Using a microwaveable cup, heat milk in microwave for 10 to 12 seconds. In a large mixing bowl combine 00 and allpurpose flours, brewer’s yeast, and sugar. Stir these ingredients together, then add salt. Make a hollow in the center of mixture and pour in water and then milk. Make sure the oil is no longer hot, remove and discard rosemary, and add oil to yeast mixture. Stir to combine and transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with dough hook attachment. Mix on low to medium speed for about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, stir by hand until the dough is smooth and soft.) Turn dough out on a floured surface. Roll dough up (use a scraper if it sticks), then roll again from the narrow end. Shape dough into a ball and place it in

oiled bowl. Lightly spray top of dough with oil and cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rise, ideally in the oven on proofing setting, for 3 to 4 hours, until it triples in size. (If you do not have a proofer or an oven with a proofing setting, a warm spot in your home will also work.) The ideal temperature is 82°F, but at a lower temperature, the dough will just take a little longer to rise. When dough has tripled in size, turn it out onto a floured surface and make a letter fold: pick up one side of the dough and fold it a third of the way over the rest. Then fold over the opposite side so that it covers the first. Put dough back in bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let it to rise in a warm spot/proofer for 30 minutes. Turn it out again and do another letter fold, this time folding the other two sides. Put it back in the bowl, cover it with the plastic wrap and let it rise for 30 more minutes. Lightly coat a half-sheet pan with olive oil spray; set aside. If not using your oven to proof the dough, then set it to 485°F. Otherwise, wait to do this until the dough is ready to come out. When 30 minutes has elapsed, turn dough out onto the lightly oiled half-sheet pan and gently spread it, using your fingers. It may not spread all the way to the edges at first. You may need to stretch it, then

GARY MOSS

ade with a healthy dose of olive oil, the yeasted Italian flatbread, focaccia, is dimpled and dusted with herbs and coarse salt and baked in a low, flat tray to an irresistibly crisp and oily result. “It’s not an elegant bread,” says Sarah Bercusson of The Tuscan Bakery (thetuscanbakery. com) in Thousand Oaks, “but it’s so flavorful you just don’t care.” Bercusson is English but spent her childhood and adolescence in Florence, where the aroma of bread lilts outside every bakery. Since moving stateside eight years ago, she has re-created the Tuscan-style focaccia of her youth, schiacciata, and now sells it at farmers’ markets and to order.

Sarah Bercusson, owner of The Tuscan Bakery in Thousand Oaks, nestles Castelvetrano olives into the customary depressions in her Olive, Caper, and Rosemary Focaccia.

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Taste Food wait a few minutes, then stretch it again. Once the dough reaches the edges of the tray, press four fingers of both hands firmly into dough to make dimples all over its surface. Sprinkle as many capers as you like onto dough and press olives into dimples. Remove leaves from rosemary sprig and scatter them over dough (discard stems). Drizzle olive oil over dough and sprinkle with coarse salt. Bake focaccia on bottom shelf of oven for 10 minutes. Then, transfer it to center shelf and bake for 8 to 10 more minutes, until golden brown. Remove from oven and brush edges with a little more olive oil. Serve warm or at room temperature. Alternatively, after the dough has risen for the third time, make individual-size focaccia by dividing dough into eight equal pieces. Spread each piece of dough into the bottom of a 3x5-inch mini loaf pan lightly coated with oilve oil spray, stretching dough to the edges of the pan. Bake for 8 minutes on the bottom shelf of the oven. Move pans to top shelf and bake for an additional 8 to 10 minutes or until golden brown.

STRAWBERRY FOCACCIA WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR GLAZE “My recipes are based on Tuscan focaccia, also known as schiacciata, which is a little thinner than other types of focaccia,” says The Tuscan Bakery’s Sarah Bercusson. She likes to serve and eat this slightly sweet focaccia for breakfast or with a cup of afternoon tea. For optimal texture and flavor, Bercusson prefers to order Paneangeli Lievito di Birra Mastro Fornaio, an Italian brewer’s yeast, online, rather than use standard active dry yeast for this recipe. She also notes that because the dough is somewhat loose, when moving and working with it, a lightly oiled plastic dough scraper is helpful. “You may need to stretch the dough, then wait a few minutes, then stretch it again,” Bercusson says. “It will get there!” Makes an 18x13-inch flatbread LEAVENING ¼ cup whole milk ½ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup tepid water 1¼ teaspoons brewer’s yeast (available at amazon.com) 1 teaspoon sugar DOUGH 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ cups 00 flour (available in most grocery stores) ½ cup plus 3 tablespoons water ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar ¼ cup whole milk

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Pinch of salt Olive oil spray GLAZE ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon honey TOPPING 2¾ cups fresh strawberries, hulled, washed, and sliced vertically 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons sugar To make leavening: Pour milk into a small cup and heat in a microwave for about 10 to 12 seconds. Place flour, milk, water, brewer’s yeast, and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Stir with a spoon until mixture becomes almost paste-like. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let rise for about an hour at about 82°F until leavening doubles in volume. (You can use your oven’s proofing setting if available; a

warm or sunny spot in your house will also work.) If the temperature isn’t quite right, you may need to wait a little longer for the leavening to double in size. To make dough: Lightly coat a large mixing bowl with olive oil spray; set aside. Transfer leavening to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment and add all-purpose and 00 flours, water, sugar, and whole milk. (Alternatively, mix by hand.) Start mixing at low to medium speed, and then add olive oil and, last, salt. Continue mixing for 3 to 4 minutes until dough is soft and smooth. Turn dough out on a floured surface. Roll dough up (use scraper if it sticks), then roll it again from the narrow end. Shape dough into a ball and place it into a large, lightly oiled bowl. Lightly spray top of dough with oil and cover bowl with plastic wrap. Leave it to rise, ideally in the oven on proofing setting, for about 4 hours, until it triples in size. Lightly coat a half-sheet pan with olive oil spray; set aside. Put a pot of water on the stove to boil. When dough has risen sufficiently, turn it out onto the oiled half-

A Natural High

Making and maintaining a homegrown levain—a bread-leavening agent—may feel like a daunting process, but for Ember’s Matthew Molacek, it is the key to flavor in his focaccia, among other breads. “It could be a deterrent for some people, but it’s really worth trying,” he says. “It brings its own unique flavor that can’t be replicated by someone else’s levain. Molacek’s is 10 years old, and he calls it his first child. “I bring my levain everywhere with me so I can feed it,” he says, chuckling. “It’s been to Disneyland. It’s been to Tahoe.” Here, he provides details on how to develop your own starter at home. Who knows? Maybe yours will visit the Grand Canyon or Times Square.

LEVAIN To start: 1 cup bread flour 1 cup lukewarm water Mix together flour and water in a clear container to create a thick batter. Cover it with a tea towel and leave it at room temperature for 3 to 4 days or until tiny air bubbles have developed under a naturally formed crust. Remove the crust and discard it along with about 80 percent of the mixture, about ¼ cup. For regular feedings: ¼ cup reserved levain (i.e. the remainder after discarding 80 percent) 1 cup bread flour 1 cup cold water In a clear container, combine the reserved levain, flour, and water. Cover the mixture with a tea towel and let it sit at room temperature for 24 hours. Throughout the day, you will notice changes in the levain. It

will start as a sweet-smelling, thick batter; ferment into a risen, aerated, acidicsmelling, “ripe” mass reminiscent of bread dough; and then collapse into a thinner paste, smelling more like vinegar. The next day, discard about 80 percent of the levain before adding flour and water, also called “feeding.” Repeat these steps for several days. It is important to consistently feed your levain at the same time daily to encourage development of an active, lively, wild yeast culture that will yield uniquely delicious bread. After seven to 14 days of consistent discards and feedings, feed the levain in preparation for making bread. Once a feeding schedule is established, a levain is easy to maintain. When making bread, it’s best to use levain at its “ripe” stage, between 10 to 12 hours after a feeding, so plan your baking schedule accordingly. For example, if you plan to make bread dough in the morning, feed your levain the night before. After you remove some levain to bake bread, feed the remaining levain immediately.

sheet pan and gently spread it, using your fingers. Place half-sheet pan on the center shelf in oven or proofer. (In ovens with no proofing setting, just place pan of focaccia in oven without turning it on.) Fill a 9x13x2-inch baking pan with boiling water and carefully place it in the oven on the shelf below the halfsheet pan. Close the oven door and let dough rise for 1 to 1½ hours, or until it swells and becomes spongy. Meanwhile, make glaze: In a saucepan over high heat, combine brown sugar, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and honey and whisk together. Bring mixture to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes until glaze thickens to a consistency that coats the back of a spoon. When dough has completed its final rise, remove it from oven and set oven temperature to 360°F. Press all four of your fingers on both hands firmly into dough to make dimples all over its surface. Add topping: Arrange strawberries on top of dough and use a spoon or fork to drizzle over dough the amount of glaze you prefer. (Be careful not to overdo it; err on the side of too little glaze.) Also drizzle olive oil over dough and sprinkle sugar on top. Bake focaccia for 25 to 30 minutes until golden brown. Serve straight from the oven or just warm.

ROASTED PASILLA PEPPER AND SMOKED MOZZARELLA FOCACCIA At Ember in Arroyo Grande, pastry chef Matthew Molacek makes desserts, flatbread dough, and the focaccia served at the start of every meal. “Focaccia was the first thing I learned to make in a professional kitchen,” he says. “It’s a workable, forgiving dough that’s great for beginners. And, as far as shaping the bread, that’s simple, too.” Aside from using a levain as a leavening agent in addition to active dry yeast, his best tip for baking the perfect focaccia is keeping the dough well oiled as it rises. Makes a 9x13-inch focaccia 1 pasilla pepper ½ teaspoon active dry yeast ⅓ cup warm (90°F to 110°F) water 4¼ cups bread flour, divided 1¼ cups water, room temperature ¾ cup levain (see “A Natural High,” opposite) 1½ teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more, as needed 1 cup grated mozzarella Coarse salt, optional, as needed Lightly char the pepper on a stovetop burner over high heat until it is black and blistery but still has some green skin. Let it cool

completely. Then split it down the side and open it up to form one flat surface, charred skin–side down. Scrape out the seeds, flip the pepper over, and lightly scrape the skin to remove excess char. Cut pepper into a medium dice and set aside. Lightly oil a large bowl; set aside. In a clear, small cup, mix together yeast and warm water. Cover surface with ½ cup bread flour, but do not mix. Set aside for 10 minutes at room temperature. The yeast will activate, creating foamy bubbles that cause the surface of the flour to crack and split. This is a great indicator that the yeast is viable and you’re ready to make bread. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine yeast mixture, room-temperature water, remaining bread flour, and levain. Mix on low speed for about 8 minutes, or until dough starts to pull away from sides of bowl. Add salt, 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, and diced pasilla pepper. Increase speed slightly and continue mixing for about 3 to 5 minutes or until dough once again starts to pull away from sides of bowl. Transfer dough to oiled bowl. Lightly coat top of dough with olive oil, and loosely cover with a tea towel. Let dough rise at room temperature until it doubles in size, about 1 to 1½ hours. Invert dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Using both hands, roll dough into a ball, creating tension on the surface. Use enough flour so dough does not stick to your hands but won’t slide around the table as you roll the dough into a ball, creating a shiny, elastic surface. Once ball is formed, place dough seam side-down in an oiled 9x13-inch baking pan. Lightly oil top of ball. Set dough aside, uncovered, to rise at room temperature for about 1 hour. Keep dough oiled and slick as it rises so that no dry spots develop on the surface. When 1 hour has passed, gently press dough down to level it out and form it to the shape of the pan. Press your fingertips into dough to create dimples all over the surface. Set it aside again and keep the surface oiled as the dough rises for 2 more hours or until it doubles in size. Preheat oven to 400°F and bake focaccia for 10 minutes. Remove par-baked bread from oven, and lower oven temperature to 350°F. Spread grated mozzarella over parbaked bread and sprinkle it with coarse salt, if desired. Continue baking at 350°F for about 15 minutes, or until cheese melts and is lightly browned. Remove focaccia from oven and cool before cutting and serving. 

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Taste Spirits

Van Gogh in a Glass INSPIRED BY AN ONGOING SANTA BARBARA MUSEUM OF ART EXHIBIT, AREA MIXOLOGISTS DESIGN CREATIVE COCKTAILS WITH A NOD TO THE DUTCH PAINTER.

incent van Gogh, the Dutch painter who died impoverished and relatively obscure in 1890, is having quite a moment. Several national tours of his paintings are circling the country to enthusiastic response. The West Coast premiere of Through Vincent’s Eyes: Van Gogh and His Sources is on exhibit at the Santa

Barbara Museum of Art (through May 22; sbma.net) and provides a contextual experience with some of Van Gogh’s works alongside those of artists he admired. In celebration of the Dutch master’s visit, we asked two bar artists to create cocktails based on his works. At first glance, the drinks may look much too beautiful to sip. But don’t let that stop you. Immerse yourself.

Jacopo Falleni

Owner and mixologist Nonna, Westlake Village nonna.restaurant

STARRY NIGHT Inspired by The Starry Night (1889) To celebrate Van Gogh’s most iconic painting, Nonna is offering the Starry Night cocktail, featuring an impressive waffle paper garnish depicting The Starry Night, through the end of March. A touch of absinthe (which has no psychotropic effects, despite its rather romantically embellished history) invokes the popularity of the emeraldcolored spirit during the late-19th century. Makes one cocktail ½ ounce absinthe liquor 1 ounce vanilla-infused rum ½ ounce sour mix (recipe follows) 2 dashes orange blossom water ¼ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice ¼ ounce orgeat syrup ¼ ounce Giffard Blue Curacao or other blue curaçao liqueur ¼ ounce Soho Lychee Flavored Liqueur or other lychee-flavored liqueur 1 egg white* Ice Small flower or lemon twist

* Note: For recipes that call for raw egg, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration advises using eggs that have been treated to destroy salmonella by pasteurization or another approved method.

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

GARY MOSS

Swirl absinthe around a coupe glass to lightly coat the inside, and then empty the glass. To an empty shaker add rum, sour mix, orange blossom water, lime juice, orgeat syrup, blue curaçao and lychee-flavored liqueurs, and >

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2. 4.

Taste Spirits egg white, and shake vigorously for 15 to 20 seconds. Add ice to shaker and strain chilled cocktail into coupe. Garnish with flower or lemon twist. Jacopo Falleni’s Sour Mix Makes enough for about 20 Starry Night cocktails ½ cup fresh-squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup fresh-squeezed lime juice ¼ cup fresh-squeezed orange juice ¼ cup sugar Combine all ingredients in a small glass jar and stir until sugar dissolves. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

¼ ounce maple syrup 2 ounces bacon-infused Basil Hayden’s Dark Rye whiskey Preheat oven to 375°F. Sprinkle both sides of bacon with brown sugar to coat lightly. Place sugared bacon on a baking sheet (for multiple cocktails, caramelize a batch). Bake for 5 minutes. Turn bacon over and bake for an additional 5 minutes, until brown and crispy. Remove from oven and set aside on paper towel to drain. Chill an old-fashioned glass. Set a stainlesssteel sauté pan on the stovetop or a stone surface. Place a generous pinch of tobacco in the center of the pan and light it with a match. When smoke starts to form, place the glass over tobacco to cover it completely. Allow smoke to dissipate. Remove glass from pan. Discard tobacco. Add half orange slice and cherries to glass. Using a chef’s torch, brûlée fruit until lightly browned. Add coffee pecan bitters and large piece of ice. In a mixing glass, add maple syrup and bacon-infused whiskey. Stir until blended. Pour mixture over ice into the old-fashioned glass. Garnish with caramelized bacon.

Makes one cocktail Ice 1½ ounces Rutte Old Simon Genever or any Dutch genever 1 ounce Campari 1 ounce sweet vermouth Orange half-wheel or large orange twist In a mixing glass filled with ice, add genever, Campari, and sweet vermouth and stir until well chilled. Strain into a chilled rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with orange half-wheel or orange twist.

Food and beverage director El Encanto, a Belmond Hotel, Santa Barbara belmond.com/elencanto

THE STAGECOACH

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Inspired by Sunflowers (1889) Here, van Meijeren uses Dutch genever, a spirit traditional to Van Gogh’s home country, to demonstrate soft complexity. The orange slice and maraschino cherry garnish resembles the center of a sunflower. Makes one cocktail Ice 2 ounces Rutte Old Simon Genever or any Dutch genever ⅚ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ ounce simple syrup 1⅔ ounces Thomas Henry Soda Water, or any soda water Orange slice Luxardo maraschino cherry

Inspired by Tarascon Stagecoach (1888) Although Van Gogh’s Tarascon Stagecoach isn’t as well-known as some of the artist’s other works, only a truly artistic cocktail would do justice to the painting. This nutty smoke-tinged drink, conceived by Falleni, would have been the perfect antidote to the exhausting, uncomfortable stagecoach rides of the late-19th century. Note: The caramelized bacon requires a stint in the oven, and a chef’s torch is called for to brûlée the fruit. Makes one cocktail 1 slice uncooked bacon ½ teaspoon brown sugar Sutliff Private Stock Molto Dolce pipe tobacco for smoking the glass ½ orange slice 2 Amarena wild cherries or other dark, sour cherries 7 dashes coffee-pecan bitters Large piece of ice

GENEVER COLLINS

EL ENCANTO DUTCH NEGRONI Inspired by Self-Portrait (1887) “Because Van Gogh was a prolific Dutch painter, this cocktail receives a Dutch twist with genever,” says van Meijeren. A Dutch spirit that blends juniper berries and other botanicals for gin and malt flavors, genever was around during the artist’s time. “The amber color and simplicity of the cocktail is reminiscent of the Self-Portrait,” van Meijeren notes.

In a cocktail shaker filled with ice, add genever, lemon juice, and simple syrup and shake well. Strain into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top with soda water. Garnish with orange slice and cherry. · The Starry Night and Stagecoach cocktails will be available at Nonna in Westlake Village through the end of this month. The El Encanto Dutch Negroni and Genever Collins will be available during special dining events on El Encanto's outdoor terrace in Santa Barbara on March 30, April 20, and May 18.

THE STAGECOACH COCKTAIL: GARY MOSS; DUTCH NEGRONI AND GENEVER COLLINS: EL ENCANTO, A BELMOND HOTEL SANTA BARBARA

Alec van Meijeren

by Hotel Cerro

Raise a Glass to Coastal Cuisine www.brasserieslo.com | 805.592.3880 | @brasserie.slo | 1119 Garden St, San Luis Obispo, CA

Taste Dining Out By Victoria Woodard Harvey Photographs by Gary Moss

New Digs for Decker Kitchen THE WESTLAKE VILLAGE FOODIE HAVEN MAKES AN EXPANSIVE MOVE.

raham Harris spent years admiring bread and bakers’ crafting of it while living in the Bay Area, so it felt like the thing to do—in his home kitchen—when he relocated to his native Conejo Valley back in 2018. “I don’t know if I’d be in restaurants if I hadn’t spent six months making bread,” says Harris, owner of Decker Kitchen (deckerkitchen.com), the cozy restaurant he opened in Westlake Village in late 2018 that has garnered wide acclaim for its breads. Fast-forward to last month and the eagerly awaited move of Decker Kitchen to its new location (a mile or so from the original), where Harris intends to continue showcasing his fresh, rustic loaves. With six times the space, this restaurant not only represents an expansion of the concept he began a few years ago, but also allows for more diners, more dishes, and under the auspices of savvy and fun-loving Harris, more growth of his epicurean philosophies. “Good product is at the core of all I do,” says Harris. “I focus on the environment, and [the new location] allows us to play and do what I like to do.” The restaurant’s latest home features nice touches like numerous skylights and solid travertine flooring throughout. In the kitchen, the walk-in cooler is about the size of the previous location’s indoor dining area. Equipment (sourced despite supply chain issues) includes a vintage smoker for creating charcuterie

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

A Decker Kitchen cheese and charcuterie platter (above, left) showcases house-smoked sausage. Lush greenery borders a row of tables on the patio (above) at the restaurant’s new site.

sausage, smoked salmon, and the house ribs; a rotisserie for cooking game birds, leg of lamb, and Harris’s signature porchetta pork roast; and, naturally, a designated bread oven to ramp up production of the loaves central to the Decker food menu. Diners can choose to sit at the long, butcher block bar with brass pineapple lamps and built-in wine and beer taps or at one of the generously spaced indoor tables or cozy nooks by large picture windows. A fireside lounge is set with slingback chairs and portable poufs. At the center of all this is a raised stage on which musician friends and family will play. “No cover bands,” says Harris, whose father was a member of The Flying Burrito Brothers country rock band in

Head chef Kristen Marsh (above) prepares to slice heirloom tomatoes from nearby Somis Farm for a toastbased appetizer. Fresh sourdough loaves (right) are made in-house daily using a 24-hour fermentation process.

Entrées feature generous portions of seafood, such as grilled mahi mahi (left), and meats, like bone-in Kurobuta pork chop (top, right). Owner Graham Harris (right) unveils a smoky cocktail.

the 1980s, “but gypsy jazz and flat-picking guitar.” A hidden, private dining room with a secret entrance is designed for special wine- or bourbon-maker dinners. Its stone walls are lined in velvet and decorated with paintings from Harris’ private collection. In contrast, native botanicals and twinkling lights enhance the patio, along with a water feature painted by Harris’ mother, who is an artist. It’s a great place to take in sunset views over the Conejo hills. Head chef Kristen Marsh turns out starters, like warm Castelvetrano olives roasted with fresh rosemary, crumbled feta, and olive oil; and sliced Somis Farm heirloom tomato atop whipped feta mousse smeared on charred toast. Spicy Shakshuka with lamb meatballs > MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Taste Dining Out makes a great share plate and can be prepared vegan or vegetarian. New menu items are often inspired by Sundaynight dinners from Harris’s childhood, such as roasted chicken or a mix of grilled sausages and steak, served family style on earth-toned platters made by Mayware Ceramics of Ojai. Among the tried-and-true favorites of Decker Kitchen regulars are the tender barbecued pork ribs, which are seasoned with a dry rub, then smoked, slow roasted, hot roasted, and finally grilled for a lacquered finish of house sauce. They’re served with creamy herbed slaw and house pickles. Another mainstay dish is the thick, bone-in pork chop special. Herb-brined and grilled, it comes with a gratin of sliced potatoes mixed with garlic-and-tomato confit and topped with a layer of Gruyère. To round out the plate, a salad of frisée and crisp, sliced apples is dressed in a mellow mustard vinaigrette. The grilled mahi mahi comes with muhammara, a Middle Eastern sauce made of mildly spicy red bell pepper, walnuts, and bread crumbs, and a pilaf-like side of farro and roasted vegetables. The Angus rib eye steak is reverse seared (cooked first in a low oven then high-fire seared for a crisp outer layer), topped with compound butter, and served in thick slices with a mound of crusty but tender roasted potatoes. Decker’s signature pizzas, perfected at the original location, are also available. The wine list is international, with French burgundies and Italian brunellos, but also includes Ledge Adams Ranch 2018 Red Blend and Carol Shelton 2019 “Coquille Blanc” Rhône-style blend, both from Paso Robles. Among numerous Napa Valley wines, are M. Etain 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford), and Kongsgaard 2018 Chardonnay. Craft beer choices include MadeWest Hazy IPA on tap and a rotation of other options from local brewers, like 14 Cannons, as well as a pilsner by Coloradobased Oskar Blues Brewery and Fremont Brewing Company’s Lush IPA from Seattle. Paul Jones, the mixologist from the original location, remains a consultant for the new cocktail menu, which includes the Ultimate Hemingway Daiquiri, made with Royal Standard dry rum and fresh lime juice clarified through an elaborate process involving agar. The house margarita is made with reposado tequila and a citrus concentrate that is prepared sous vide for maximum flavor and unusual clarity. A selection of tropical drinks listed on the menu under “Tiki Time” reflects an affinity of Harris and Jones, two self-described “tiki dorks.” Takeaway goods from the Decker Kitchen pantry include house-made charcuterie, cheeses, select wines, premium caviar, local honey, and of course, the fresh loaves of rustic bread that began this whole adventure. “I want it all to be a little unexpected,” says Harris about the elements of his new expanded concept. “That’s what keeps it interesting.” 94

MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

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steaks, and seafood. A serene covered patio near the substantial kitchen garden is a fine place for enjoying breakfast, lunch, small plates, or dinner outdoors. Cello also offers an extensive farm-to-bar cocktail menu and a wine list that includes several otherwise impossible-to-get bottles.

COAST RANGE & VAQUERO BAR 1635 Mission Drive Solvang, 805-691-9134 coastrange.restaurant Steak & Seafood; Entrées $28–$99 Romantic

THE DINING GUIDE Our aim is to inform you of restaurants with great food that you might not have experienced yet. This guide is arranged not by cuisine type, but by style of restaurant. “Fine Dining” choices have an elegant atmosphere and very professional service. Restaurants included under the “Foodie” heading are heralded for their wonderful chef-driven cuisine, regardless of atmosphere. “Good Eats” listings are just that—solid, casual, and delicious. The “Fun, Fun, Fun” category brings you spots geared toward a good time. New listings will appear in Where to Eat Now in every issue. Please send any comments and suggestions to edit@805living.com. MORE ON THE WEB: Visit 805living.com for more listings and to make quick and easy reservations at many of the restaurants listed here and on the website through Open Table.

Fine Dining

These restaurants have a skilled kitchen team, a lovely dining room, and great service. UPDATE BELMOND EL ENCANTO 800 Alvarado Place Santa Barbara, 805-845-5800 belmond.com/el-encanto-santa-barbara Entrées $26–$54 Great Views, Romantic

The luxe Belmond El Encanto hotel perches atop its seven-acre hilltop property with sweeping city and ocean views. Settle in on the spacious terrace to experience the plant- and seafood-forward cuisine of executive chef Bruno Lopez in dishes such as king salmon, seared diver scallops, risotto with sea urchin or black truffle, glass noodles, and a grains and greens bowl. Taking influences from various California cultures, the menu showcases the flavors of local artisanal ingredients including fresh seafood, caught daily. Wine offerings from Santa Barbara County and around the globe, beers, and cocktails are among a wide selection of beverage choices. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily, although Sunday lunch is replaced with a bottomless Bellini brunch. Afternoon tea is served Monday through Saturday from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. with 24-hour advance notice. In-the-know locals and hotel guests take in the sunset, cocktail in hand, on the terrace.

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CA’ DARIO 37 E. Victoria St., Santa Barbara and 38 W. Victoria St., Santa Barbara and 1187 Coast Village Road, Montecito and 250 Storke Road, Unit B, Goleta 805-884-9419 cadariorestaurants.com Italian; Entrées $11–$30

The flagship of Dario Furlati’s growing restaurant empire sits at the corner of Victoria and Anacapa streets somewhat off the Santa Barbara tourist path but decidedly worth the walk. House-made pastas here come with Bolognese or tomatoes, olives, and capers or smoked salmon, peas, tomatoes, and cream. Terra-cotta-baked chicken, roasted quails with porcini ragout sauce, and fish-of-the-day specials are also available. For faster fare, check out Ca’ Dario Pizzeria Veloce, found inside the Santa Barbara Public Market. People of Goleta, take note: Ca’ Dario Cucina Italiana serves lunch and dinner in a Storke Plaza space decorated with dark woods and white tablecloths. A recently opened Montecito location also serves lunch and dinner.

CELLO RISTORANTE & BAR 2700 Buena Vista Drive Paso Robles, 805-369-2503 allegrettovineyardresort.com/dining.aspx Mediterranean; Entrées $14–$38 Romantic

Located at the luxurious Allegretto Vineyard Resort, Cello features local, seasonal ingredients (some grown on site) in pastas, salads, flatbreads,

Partners, chefs, and industry veterans Anthony Carron, Lincoln Carson, and Steven Fretz collaborate with sommelier, winemaker, and James Beard Award–winner Rajat Parr at this classic steakhouse that sparkles with chef-driven creativity. Leather banquettes and custom stained-glass panels add to the ambience in the glamorous dining room, and patio seating is ample. Dinner entrées from the grill include selections like dayboat scallops, from the menu’s “Coast” section, and steak cuts, such as Japanese A5 Wagyu and Creekstone Farms Ribeye, from the “Range” section, all of which can be dressed with seven different sauces. The Vaquero Bar serves cocktails, local wine, craft beer, and a casual food menu that includes Fish & Chips made with local vermillion rock cod. For dessert, brioche doughnuts are made hot-to-order and served with brown butter glaze.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL WESTLAKE VILLAGE 2 Dole Drive Westlake Village, 818-575-3000 fourseasons.com/westlakevillage/dining

Three dining concepts at this resort offer a variety of options. At Coin & Candor, a breakfast, lunch, and dinner brasserie, original dishes by chef Jesus Medina are driven by the seasonality of ingredients from local purveyors and influenced by his Latin roots. Onyx shines the spotlight on bright, fresh nigiri sushi and shashimi in offerings like the Hayabusa roll, with yellowtail, shrimp, asparagus, avocado, and creamy ponzu. The American Wagyu beef skirt steak is also a highlight on the well-rounded menu. Prosperous Penny is a sophisticated, comfortable social watering hole pouring inventive cocktails, aged bourbons and whiskeys, and rare spirits. Accompaniments are available from a seasonally driven light-bite menu. For

Elaine Andersen Morello and Alberto Morello of the Olio family of restaurants helm the new Bedda Mia, an Italian eatery in Santa Barbara owned by Romolo De Paolis. “We’re bringing Alberto’s hometown, Custonaci, to Santa Barbara, via Italian cuisine with a Sicilian accent,” says Elaine, adding that the emphasis will be on Mediterranean seafood, produce, and unique wines. That directive takes shape in dishes like grilled cuttlefish with arugula, lemon, and extra-virgin olive oil; and angel-hair pasta with sea urchin sauce. The couple also continue to own and run their Olio e Limone Ristorante, Olio Pizzeria, and Olio Bottega.

a sip of joe, Stir coffee bar, located off the lobby, is open daily from 6 a.m., offering a grab-and-go menu of baked on-site pastries and savory options along with cold-brewed coffee, juices, gelato, and other treats. Valet parking is $10 with validation; self-parking is free for up to four hours with validation.

LES PETITES CANAILLES 1215 Spring St. Paso Robles, 805-296-3754 lpcrestaurant.com French; Entrées $17–$40

Offering a taste of Paris in Paso without the pretense, this buzzing French farm-to-table bistro focuses on sophisticated, modern cuisine in a casual, comfortable setting. Julien Asseo, chef and co-owner with his wife, Courtney, received his culinary education in France and honed his skills at Michelinstarred eateries Restaurant Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas and La Fontaine de Mars in France. Following dishes like steak tartare, escargot in puff pastry, steak frites, dayboat scallops, beef cheek Bourguignon, and Le Burger, it’s easy to say oui to crème brûlée or profiteroles for a very French ending.

UPDATE LUCKY’S 1279 Coast Village Road Montecito, 805-565-7540 luckys-steakhouse.com and 3835 Cross Creek Road, Suite 18 Malibu, 310-317-0099 luckysmalibu.com Steak House; Entrées $16–$69 Saturday & Sunday Brunch

At the Montecito location of this upscale steak house, black-and-white portraits of stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Sammy Davis Jr., Andy Warhol, and Julia Child adorn the walls. The plates and napkins are monogrammed, the patio is tented and heated for year-round enjoyment, and the bar opens an hour before dinner service begins. Steaks can be dressed with seven different sauces, there are eight versions of potato side dishes, and the onion rings should have their own Facebook fan page. The Malibu location in the Malibu Country Mart offers the same mouthwatering steaks, chops, seafood, and cocktails, and carries on the black-and-white theme with an eye-catching jazz-themed mural in the dining room. Seating is also available on the covered and heated outdoor patio. Dinner is served daily in Montecito and Tuesday through Sunday in Malibu. Lunch is offered Monday through Friday in both locations.

Family owned for 33 years

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MEDITERRANEO 32037 Agoura Road Westlake Village, 818-889-9105 med-rest.com Mediterranean; Entrées $16–$58 Great View, Weekend Brunch

Recently reopened after a major makeover, this favorite of locals and hotel guests retains an elegant yet comfortable vibe. Located on the 17-acre property of the Westlake Village Inn, the all-new design includes an expansive bar for sipping craft cocktails and international wines. Executive chef Lisa Biondi has reimagined the menus to include bright Mediterranean dishes such as salatim, seasonal Israeli salads and spreads like street corn with lemon, yogurt, feta, and a punch of Aleppo pepper, at lunch and dinner. Dinner entrées include old favorites like classic prime steaks and house-made pastas, along with lamb sirloin souvlaki and grilled whole branzino. Weekend brunch options include Benedicts, shakshuka, pancakes, and waffles. Patios offer views of the lake or vineyard.

COVID-19 restrictions affecting dining options are subject to change, but local restaurants need your support whenever possible. MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Where to Eat Now NATE’S ON MARSH 450 Marsh St. San Luis Obispo, 805-544-4454 natesonmarsh.com Italian/Contemporary American Entrées $20–$49

Housed in a charming colonial bungalow, Nate’s on Marsh offers fine dining, hold the pretension. Owner and San Luis Obispo native Nathan Long also presents an extensive wine list with a well-curated selection of Central Coast and Italian bottles, and a full bar. An evolving seasonal menu focuses on local ingredients. Try the Cacio e Pepe (cheese and pepper) with housemade chitarra pasta. The restaurant is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; the bar opens at 4 p.m.

NONNA 951 S. Westlake Blvd., #102 Westlake Village, 805-497-8482 nonna.restaurant Italian; Entrées $18–$45 Great Patio, Romantic

A casually elegant dining room of distressed wood lit with unique light sculptures by artist Timothy J. Ferrie is a beautiful fit for Florence-born and -trained restaurateur Jacopo Falleni. The menu avoids the faddish, instead cutting a culinary swath through the Italian peninsula and islands with tradition-rich dishes that reflect Falleni’s Tuscan upbringing (gnudi with pomodoro sauce), executive chef Pamela Ganci’s Sicilian heritage (arancini), and pasta chef Pamela Ganci’s influences from Bologna (passatelli with peas). Service is engaging and professional, while Falleni himself fills the role of sommelier and designed signature cocktails for the full bar.

Recently opened in Ojai, Café Bōku (cafeboku.com) offers a plant-based menu and pet-friendly outdoor seating. Co-owners Lynn and Reno Rollé and their son Reno Jr. serve up smoothies spiked with their powdered-food additives, such as the Ojai Kreamsicle and the Pink Protein Moment, as well as dishes like the Jerk Jackfruit Quesadilla with housemade Calabrian chile sauce. Offerings also include specialties from nearby purveyors, such as gluten-free pastries from SunOven bakery, sourdough bread from Ojai Rôtie, and cups of locally roasted Bonito Coffee. OJAI VALLEY INN 905 Country Club Road Ojai, 805-646-1111 ojaivalleyinn.com Various Cuisines Entrées $11–$60; Saturday Buffet Brunch $32, Sunday Bluegrass Brunch $55

The resort’s beautiful setting can be enjoyed by hotel guests and others who simply want to patronize the restaurants. As the fine-dining flagship, Olivella features California-Italian cuisine (see separate listing). Start the evening with small bites and cocktails in the Wallace Neff Heritage Bar, located in the resort’s original golf clubhouse and named for the architect

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who set the inn’s Spanish Revival tone. Other dining venues include the tranquil Spa Café in Spa Ojai, where light breakfast, fresh-pressed juices, and spa lunch are served inside or on the poolside terrace. The Oak is famous for its casual but attentive lunch service on a shaded patio overlooking the 10th hole of the resort’s golf course. It also serves breakfast and dinner and two styles of brunch: buffet on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. and bottomless Champagne with live bluegrass music on Sundays from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Indigo Pool & Bar offers salads, sandwiches, and adult libations served poolside and in cabanas. The Pixie Café is located at the family-friendly Pixie Pool. Jimmy’s Pub offers a menu of salads, sandwiches, wood-fired pizzas, and entrées plus craft beers and cocktails. (It’s also one of the few restaurants in Ojai to stay open past 10 p.m. on weekends.) Next door, Libbey’s Market is the place to go for a quick sandwich and a scoop of McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams.

PACIFIC BY NORU 394 E. Main St., Suite B Ventura, 805-205-9618 pacificbynoru.com New American; Entrées $10–$29

This star serves innovative coastal fare in an upscale yet laid-back setting that includes a lovely covered patio. Housed in the 1924 Beaux Arts–style Bank of Italy building on Ventura’s buzzing main drag, it’s a locals’ go-to for dinner and happy hour (4 p.m. to 6 p.m.). The menu changes seasonally, but chef Ren Weigang and co-owner James Norton serve up recurring favorites like sake-glazed salmon, hamachi sashimi, braised short rib, chicken katsu sliders, and Wagyu Bavette Bulgogi with chimichurri. Sip an inventive cocktail or local wine or beer.

ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH 1759 South Jameson Lane Montecito, 805-900-8388 rosewoodhotels.com/en/ miramar-beach-montecito Californian and Italian; Entrées $19–$55 Great Views, Saturday and Sunday Brunch

Set in a spectacular seaside location, this luxury beachside resort’s seven distinctive restaurants and bars are open to the general public as well as hotel guests. Executive chef Massimo Falsini oversees the dining destinations, which emphasize locally and sustainably sourced ingredients. Caruso’s, the signature oceanfront eatery, is open daily for dinner and features alfresco seating over the sand in addition to a stylish dining room outfitted with deep blue leather booths. Menu highlights include starters such as hand-pulled burrata as well as Baja kampachi crudo, house-made pastas including the chef’s signature carbonara, uni tagliolini, and main courses such as pan-roasted petrale sole and grass-fed Watkins Ranch beef fillet. Local and international wines and traditional handcrafted signature cocktails are also offered.

UPDATE SAN YSIDRO RANCH 900 San Ysidro Lane Santa Barbara, 805-565-1720 sanysidroranch.com American; Entrées $48–$90, Sunday Brunch $95 Great View, Romantic, Sunday Brunch This historic resort’s Stonehouse restaurant is helmed by executive chef Matthew Johnson. Set upstairs inside a 19th-century citrus-packing house, it boasts an inviting dining room with fireplaces and a sheltered terrace with an ocean view. The lunch menu offers dishes like Crispy Halibut Tacos, while dinner mains include options such as Steak Diane, prepared in the classic style and flambéed tableside. Sip from the renowned wine cellar’s 12,000 bottles of varietals from around the globe. Sunday brunch includes starters, entrées, desserts, and Champagnes from Mumm.

TIERRA SUR RESTAURANT AT HERZOG WINE CELLARS 3201 Camino del Sol Oxnard, 805-983-1560 tierrasuratherzog.com New American; Entrées $16–$144 (for 32-ounce rib eye for two), Buffet Brunch $65 Sunday Brunch

Tucked inside Herzog’s winery and tasting room, Tierra Sur specializes in wine-friendly meals made with careful attention to detail. Executive chef Gabe Garcia maintains a local, seasonal vibe at lunch and dinner. Marinated olives and lamb bacon are made in-house. Tapas feature Wagyu sliders and a Margherita pizza with basil-cashew cheese. Watch carefully, and you may see your bone-in rib eye for two prepared on the patio’s wood-burning grill before it is served with fried kale and roasted potatoes. Desserts include frozen custards, vanillaspiced doughnuts, and a show-stopping Baked Alaska. Surrounded by the coppery glow of the walls and the burnished-wood wine rack that frames the kitchen pass-through, diners may forget they’re at a kosher restaurant in an Oxnard industrial park. The restaurant is closed on Fridays and Saturdays in observance of the Sabbath. Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. is served buffet style, with carving and omelet stations and weekly specials inspired by ingredients from local farms.

TRA DI NOI RISTORANTE 3835 Cross Creek Road, Suite 8A Malibu, 310-456-0169 tradinoimalibu.com Italian; Entrées $18–$36, Market Price for Some Seafood Sunday Brunch

Even though locals know what they want without opening a menu, the kitchen at this restaurant in the Malibu Country Mart can still impress the rest of us with its handmade pastas, shaved truffles, grass-fed beef, local olive oil, and salads made with produce from Malibu’s Thorn Family Farm. The spaghetti carbonara manages to be both low fat and delicious, and the seasonal specials are a treat. The well-curated wine list matches the food and offers prime selections for sipping on the patio.

UPDATE WATER’S EDGE RESTAURANT AND BAR 1510 Anchors Way Ventura, 805-642-1200 watersedgeventura.com American; Entrées $21–$55 This aptly named bar and grill offers well-prepared plates from land and sea in an elegant setting with harbor views. Starters like chorizo crab cakes, garlic shrimp, and the restaurant’s award-winning New England clam chowder set the stage for main dishes such as seared sesame seed–crusted ahi and braised Szechuan short ribs. Brunch, served every Saturday and Sunday, offers appetizers, egg dishes, beignets, and waffles, as well as burgers, sandwiches, and locally sourced fish. Pets are welcome on the patio. Happy hour is every day from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. (except holidays).

Foodie

Cuisine that shines regardless of decor, service, ambience, or even views. BAR LE CÔTE 2375 Alamo Pintado Ave. Los Olivos barlecote.com Seafood; Entrées $26–$50

Daisy and Gregory Ryan, the award-winning team behind Bell’s restaurant in Los Alamos, join forces with

Ventura’s new Asiatique Eatery (asiatiqueonmain.com) turns out fresh, authentic Thai cuisine and other Asian specialties. Proprietor Wattanarat Srisuthiwattana, who also owns the going-strong Rice Thai Cuisine nearby, uses family recipes from her upbringing in Thailand for her ramen, noodles, pho, and rice bowls. A must-try is the Udon Tom Yum, a fusion of Thai hot-and-sour soup and Japanese wheat-flour noodles. Sip from a roster of boba bubble teas.

chef Brad Mathews, their partner at this elegant yet unstuffy seafood tavern. Mathews’ background includes stints at Fishing With Dynamite in Manhattan Beach and Morro Bay Oyster Company. Here, he lets the daily catch from the waters off of California, especially the Central Coast, shine in dishes such as Day Boat Scallop Crudo and Santa Barbara Sea Urchin. Emily Blackman curates a list of beer and wine from small West Coast producers and select European estates.

BARBAREÑO 205 W. Canon Perdido St. Santa Barbara, 805-963-9591 barbareno.com Californian; Entrées $18–$29

This restaurant highlights ingredients from the Central Coast in menus that feature a few changes monthly. Head chef Justin Snyder focused on pastry in his previous culinary lives, evident from the carefully composed salads, tartares, and desserts that emerge from the kitchen. Recurring favorites include starters like avocado roulade made with hamachi crudo and coconut-oolong milk, and cheeky Eggamuffins featuring buttermilk blini stacked with Seascape cheese, speck, and shavings of salt-cured egg yolk. Hope Ranch Mussels with fennel and mustard broth and slow-cooked Wagyu tri tip are also available, along with an extensive inventory of local beers and a wine list that recently garnered a Wine Spectator award of excellence.

BASTA 28863 Agoura Road Agoura Hills, 818-865-2019 bastaagoura.com Italian Entrées $16–$55, Pastas $16–$21

Located in Whizin Market Square, Basta is the real Italian deal, serving authentic scratch-made dishes, including pasta and wood-fired pizzas for lunch and dinner. Helmed by Florence-native chef Saverio Posarelli and wife Devon Wolf, the bustling eatery features a menu of tradition-rich dishes that reflect Posarelli’s Tuscan roots, such as the Tagliatelli With Wild Mushrooms and Black Truffle Sauce, as well as grilled steaks and fresh fish. Other standouts include the Wagyu Beef Burger, Grilled Spanish Octopus Salad, and Basta’s take on ramen, Tagliolini in Brodo.

BELL’S 406 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-4609 bellsrestaurant.com

French; Entrées $18–$27

Daisy and Gregory Ryan, alums of Per Se, Thomas Keller’s Michelin-starred New York restaurant, helm this Frenchinspired bistro in the historic town of Los Alamos. Located in a building that served as a bank in the early 1900s and as a biker bar later, Bell’s delivers classics like steak tartare, wild Burgundy snails served with bread from Bob’s Well Bread Bakery down the street, and coq au vin. For lunch, try the French dip made with roasted rib eye. Reservations are available through the website or via email to info@bellsrestaurant.com.

BIBI JI 734 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-560-6845 bibijisb.com Indian; $10–$16, Grill $15–$25, Curries $10–$18, Chef’s Tasting $50 per person A short stroll from Stearns Wharf and the beaches along the Santa Barbara waterfront, Bibi Ji presents an approachable and modern twist on traditional Indian cuisine. The spacious restaurant, designed with a vibrant, eclectic decor, also has a private back patio for dining while taking in the fresh ocean air. Owners Alejandro Medina and James Beard Award–winning sommelier Rajat Parr offer a menu that highlights an abundance of local seafood, traditional coconut curries, a bounty of fresh regional produce cooked in Indian spices, a Chef’s Tasting menu, and an extensive list of natural wines. The critically acclaimed restaurant was included in The New York Times’ “52 Places to Go in 2019.”

BOAR DOUGH TASTING ROOM 5015 Cornell Road Agoura Hills, 818-889-2387 boardoughtastingroom.com American; Entrées $16–$28 Sunday Brunch

This cozy hidden gem is a perfect spot for dinner or a bite (or two) before or after a movie at the next-door theater. Sip from an international wine list (the friendly owners, Charles and Joanne Bruchez, are happy to help with a selection) while enjoying starters like charcuterie and cheese boards and bacon-wrapped dates with Manchego, fresh salads, and pizzas. Entrées include sweet and spicy fried chicken breast and crispy pork belly tacos. For a treat try Blueberry Bliss, a tarte flambé showcasing the all-American berries with goat cheese, thyme, and honey. Sunday brunch features omelets and other egg dishes, waffles MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

Where to Eat Now (banana and Nutella, anyone?), and pizzas like the Mr. Johnstone with marinated salmon (also available at dinner). Happy hour on Wednesdays through Fridays from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. offers half-price pizzas and $5 house wines, beers, and sangria.

BOB’S WELL BREAD BAKERY 550 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-3000 and Bob’s Well Bread Bakery at the Ballard Store 2449 Baseline Ave., Ste. 101 Ballard, 805-691-9549 bobswellbread.com European; Pastries and Breads $1.50–$20, Entrées $7–$13

Located in a refurbished 1920s-era service station with its original Douglas fir floors intact, this artisanal bakery is well worth a visit. For the best selection, arrive at 7 a.m. on Thursdays through Mondays, when the doors open and aromatic scones, bagels, kouign-amann, pain au chocolat, and other pastries come out of the ovens. Loaves of naturally leavened, burnished-crust breads follow soon after. Special daily breads include gluten-free Centennial Loaf and pain aux lardons (Saturdays and Sundays). The on‑site café serves breakfast and lunch (think avocado toast tartine, croque monsieur sandwiches, and grilled bread with pâté and onionbacon marmalade) until 3 p.m. Grab-and-go items for DIY picnics include ficelle sandwiches made with French ham, Emmentaler cheese, and housemade butter. Well Bread Wines created by Doug Margerum are available by the glass or bottle.

Just opened for dinner by sisters Meave and Rory McAuliffe, Rory’s Place (rorysplaceojai.com) in Ojai puts locally sourced ingredients front-and-center in dishes like a roasted half chicken with wood-fired escarole; and winter squash tempura with miso-fermented local honey. Guests can also slurp oysters from the raw bar and pick up specialty items and wine from the marketplace on their way out. The McAuliffe sisters plan to add lunch service soon. BOUCHON 9 W. Victoria St. Santa Barbara, 805-730-1160 bouchonsantabarbara.com Wine Country Cuisine; Entrées $26–$38 Romantic

Bouchon celebrates the local, from its carefully curated wine list to the craftspeople overseeing the successful remodeling of the garden patio at the front entrance. Executive chef Greg Murphy follows suit, using farmers market ingredients in dishes like panroasted local white fish with wilted dandelion greens or a soup featuring white carrots from Tutti Frutti Farms. (Murphy’s Foodie Stroll menu includes a tour of the Tuesday farmers market followed by a threecourse meal with wine for $95 per person.) Add the gracious presence of proprietor Mitchell Sjerven and you have the ingredients for the first Santa Barbaraarea restaurant in a decade to earn the AAA Four Diamond award for excellence.

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CAFÉ BIZOU 30315 Canwood St., #14 Agoura Hills, 818-991-9560 cafebizou.com French; Entrées $17–$28

Cozy and candlelit, Café Bizou offers French comfort food in an unstuffy atmosphere. It’s known for wellcrafted classics such as traditional bouillabaisse, lobster bisque, escargots persillade, steak au poivre, double truffle pommes frites, along with plats du jour. Also look for grilled fresh fish, steaks, chops, chicken, pastas, and risotto. This is high-end food without the prices to match. A salad added to your dinner is $2 or $3, and wine buffs rejoice at the $2 per bottle corkage fee.

E + MON 2805 Agoura Road Westlake Village, 805-371-3693 eplusmon.com Sushi; Entrées $12–$27

Chef-owner Hidetoshi “Teddy” Seike, a restaurateur who was raised in Japan, joins forces with head chef Koji Miyamoto, whose cuisine has earned Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition, at this stylish eatery in the Westlake Commons. They offer a creative lunch and dinner menu of sushi, sashimi, bao (steamed buns), and Asian salads that spotlight seasonal ingredients. Look for signature rolls such as the E + Mon Crunch Roll, featuring spicy tuna and shrimp tempura with chive mayo, avocado, sesame, sweet soy, cucumber, and citrus sauce. Premium sake, Japanese craft beer, and California wines are the perfect sips.

EMBER RESTAURANT 1200 E. Grand Ave. Arroyo Grande, 805-474-7700 emberwoodfire.com California-Mediterranean; Small Plates $10–$17, Pizzas $18–$20, Entrées $23–$32 Named for the wood fires used to cook the restaurant’s seasonal and farm-fresh dishes, Ember is the project of executive chef Brian Collins, an Arroyo Grande native who shares skills he honed at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and Full of Life Flatbread in Los Alamos with his hometown. The menu, like the beer and wine list, is locally focused, changes monthly, and includes rustic specialties such as crispy kale and house-made fennel sausage pizza, Jidori chicken alongside a wedge of grilled polenta and farmers’ market veggies, and grilled rib eye served over roasted potatoes and topped with a decadent garlic confit and avocado chimichurri.

FULL OF LIFE FLATBREAD 225 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-4400 fulloflifefoods.com Californian; Flatbreads and Entrées $9–$27

Opened in 2003, this down-to-earth gem has become a foodie destination. Dinner is served on Thursdays through Sundays, with lunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Owner Clark Staub’s vision rings deliciously true in every bite of the fresh salads, flatbreads, and entrées made with seasonal ingredients from local farmers markets and artisan food producers. For flatbreads, look for the vegetarian Shaman’s Bread with a crunch of New Cuyama pistachios and the Nitrate-Free Pepperoni and Peppers. Diners who sit at the bar can order food there, too, and seating is available outside.

HELENA AVENUE BAKERY 131 Anacapa St., Suite C Santa Barbara, 805-880-3383 helenaavenuebakery.com Baked Goods, California-Eclectic Entrées $4–$14

The artisanal bakery and café is brought to you by the masterminds behind The Lark, Lucky Penny, and

Loquita in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone. The address says Anacapa Street, but walk in from Helena Avenue for the quickest access to Dart Coffee drinks and croissants, scones, cookies, and other pastries made with seasonal ingredients. Open daily, the bakery serves breakfast and lunch. Morning meal offerings include dishes like Green Eggs & Ham made with spicy green harissa and grits topped with a fried egg. The lunch menu features salads and sandwiches, plus specials like Nashville Hot Chicken served with house-made pickles. The bakery’s rustic patio is shared by its neighbor, the Santa Barbara Wine Collective, which offers curated tasting flights and wines by the glass and bottle.

HOTEL CALIFORNIAN 36 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-882-0100 thehotelcalifornian.com/santa_barbara_ restaurants/ Eclectic; Small Plates $12–$19

Built on the grounds of the original Hotel Californian less than a block from Stearns Wharf, Santa Barbara’s newest resort pays careful attention to all the luxurious details while retaining a casual yet elegant vibe. Its dining options are equally skilled. Blackbird, a cocktail bar located on the ground floor of the hotel, features lounge-style seating, a creative menu of small plates from executive chef Travis Watson, and inventive cocktails by mixologist Devon Espinosa in addition to local wines and craft beer. (Fans of Alfred Hitchcock will get a kick out of his photo in the dining room.) Located in a separate building from Blackbird, Goat Tree is an order-at-the-counter café with its own patio and, in the dining room, windows with a view of the kitchen. It serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with grab-and-go options for impromptu picnics.

HOTEL SAN LUIS OBISPO 877 Palm St. San Luis Obispo, 805-235-0700 hotel-slo.com Various Cuisines; Entrées $13–$46

Chef Ryan Fancher, who brings a culinary pedigree that includes a stint at Napa Valley’s French Laundry, oversees the dining options at this modern urban resort, which has a playful vibe. A contemporary spin on a classic steak house, Ox + Anchor sets an elegant yet approachable tone for dinner. Large sliding glass walls in the stylish dining room open to a covered alfresco terrace. In addition to signature steaks and seafood, the menu features shared plates like Crispy Crab Cake and Goat Cheese Croquettes. Central Coast wines take the stage on the thoughtfully curated wine list. The bright, casual Piadina offers a fresh California take on Italian cuisine based around the wood-fired oven for all-day service. Adult libations and light bites are served at The Rooftop Terrace and High Bar amid lush planted greenery and a bocce court with views of the rolling hills.

UPDATE INDUSTRIAL EATS 181 Industrial Way Buellton, 805-688-8807 industrialeats.com New American; Entrées $10–$18

Part restaurant, part butcher shop, and part takeout, this popular spot is hard to miss—just look for the colorful mural with floating sausages and the retro neon “EATS” sign in front. Inside, you’ll find locally sourced dishes by owner and executive chef Jeff Olsson. The frequently changing menu features an array of wood-fired pizzas, such as rosemary with Parmesan or skirt steak, tomatillo, and queso fresco (a soft, mild, white Mexican cheese). Small plates include chicken liver with guanciale (Italian cured pork), while the sandwich list offers selections like the Crispy Pork Banh Mi. Local wine and beer options are on tap. Check out the deli case for imported cheeses, house-cured meats, and other delicacies.

INTERMEZZO BY WINE CASK 813 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-966-9463 intermezzosb.com Modern American; Entrées $19–$29

Located in the historic El Paseo, Intermezzo is the casually stylish sister restaurant to the long-beloved Wine Cask. A collaboration between proprietor John O’Neill and executive chef Josh Brown, the eatery features modern American cuisine with a Mediterranean twist. Favorites include Spicy Capicola Pizza, Shetland Isle Salmon, and the Cask Burger. Nightly specials reflect seasonal farm-fresh picks. Sit by the fireplace or at the bar and sip signature cocktails and wines from Santa Barbara County and around the globe.

NEW LA PALOMA CAFÉ 702 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-966-7029 lapalomasb.com Californian/Mexican/Spanish; Entrées $21–$30 Weekend Brunch

This neighborhood favorite occupies a historic building and a special place in the hearts of locals. The original La Paloma Café was open from 1940 until 1983; for the next 37 years it was Paradise Café. Now owned by Acme Hospitality, the restaurant offers a creative menu focused on oak-grilled meats and fish, along with seasonal produce. Chef Jeremy Tummel melds Spanish and Mexican influences in dishes such as Santa Barbara Mission Chicken with apple-and–pink peppercorn sauce and Santa Maria–Style Snake River Farm Wagyu Tri Tip. Sip a specialty margarita, local wine, or beer. Seating is offered on a two-level outdoor patio or inside the casual dining room. Dinner is served Wednesday through Sunday; Saturday and Sunday brunch is from 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

THE LARK 131 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-284-0370 thelarksb.com New American; Entrées $18–$42

Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone takes flight with The Lark, named for the Pullman train that once made overnight runs between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The past is present in the restaurant’s setting, a former fish market remodeled to include exposed brick walls, subway tile, communal tables, and private booths fashioned from church pews. As culinary conductor, executive chef Jason Paluska oversees a thoroughly modern menu that highlights local ingredients. West Coast oysters with Goleta caviar lime are popular starters to shared plates of roasted chicken with green peppercorn gastrique, depending on the season. Craft brews, wines by the glass, cocktails, and mocktails extend the artisanal spirit into the bar.

LIDO RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 2727 Shell Beach Road Pismo Beach, 805-773-8900 thedolphinbay.com/lido Californian; Entrées $16–$58 Daily Brunch, Great View

Chef Richard Pfaff brings his eye for fresh and local ingredients to a menu that echoes the creativity displayed by the art glass in Lido’s dining room. Appetizers include oysters with pink peppercorn mignonette and beef carpaccio with dijon aioli. Entrées include pasta carbonara, house-made burgers, and a generous rib eye with herbed porcini butter. The Chef’s Tasting Menu offers five courses for $75 ($100 with wine pairings). A daily affair, brunch from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. features a three-course plated option with bottomless mimosas as well as à la carte dishes.

LITTLE DOM’S SEAFOOD 686 Linden Ave. Carpinteria, 805-749-7400 ldseafood.com Seafood, Italian; Entrées $23–$28, Pizza $14–$19

Open for dinner, Little Dom’s is the latest culinary venture from Los Angeles restaurateur Warner Ebbink and executive chef Brandon Boudet. Leather booths, a restored wooden bar, and a raw bar create a comfortable old-school ambience. The seafood-forward menu focuses on local fish and includes pizzas from the wood-burning oven, handmade pastas, and Italian classics like chicken Parmesan. Guests get things started with appetizers like chilled, Creolestyle, boiled shrimp and Santa Barbara live uni, and sip local wines, craft beers, and classic cocktails.

LOQUITA 202 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-880-3380 loquitasb.com Modern Spanish; Entrées $19–$42 Great Patio

Loquita is Spanish slang for a wild, fun-loving girl, but this eatery’s menu and food are seriously irreproachable. Executive chef Peter Lee sources the finest meat, fish, cheese, and produce to create festive, communal, à la carte meals, including tapas, pintxos (small bites typically pierced with a toothpick), and signature paella dishes. Drinks autentico include sangria and Spanish-style gin and tonics. Enjoy the spacious patio with two inviting fireplaces, or try the small-bites bar named, naturally, Poquita.

MAD & VIN 1576 Mission Drive Solvang, 805-688-3121 thelandsby.com Eclectic; Entrées $16–$38 Sunday Brunch

This restaurant located inside The Landsby hotel is named for the Danish words for “food” and “wine.” You won’t find a single aebleskiver in the sleek but comfy dining room, but Mad & Vin still pays homage to Solvang’s heritage with a Nordic Caesar salad of local greens, sautéed shrimp, fried sourdough croutons, and dill-caraway Caesar dressing. At dinner, the lamb porterhouse with mint-pesto yogurt and seafood hot pot, paired with selections from the primarily Santa Barbara County wine list, are not to be missed. The newly expanded Scandinavian-chic bar (open until midnight Fridays and Saturdays) and lounge area with patio seating is a great place to enjoy Sunday brunch, lunch, or happy hour daily from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.

MADE IN ITALY BISTRO BY ANTONIO SESSA 3825 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Unit F Westlake Village, 805-370-8667 madeinitalybistro.com Italian; Entrées & Pizzas $16–$27

Chef-owner Antonio Sessa serves up warm hospitality and authentic southern Italian cuisine at this bustling bistro. Order at the counter, then dig into Neapolitan-style pizzas from the Italian woodfired pizza oven, house-made pastas, fresh insalate, and main dishes from family recipes. Try Sessa’s handmade cavatelli ricotta pasta with his nonna’s Bolognese. At lunch, you can’t go wrong with panini such as the braised brisket, veggie, or turkey and pancetta with house-made tomato jam. Lunch and dinner are served every day except Sunday.

MOUTHFUL EATERY 2626 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd. Thousand Oaks, 805-777-9222 mouthfuleatery.com Peruvian, Californian; Entrées $9–$14 Kid-Friendly

Don’t let the multicolored chalkboard menu or the solarpowered toy pigs decorating the dining room fool you: This order-at-the-counter café may specialize in salads, sandwiches, and what are called “powerbowls” in a fun, casual atmosphere, but chef and co-owner Luis Sanchez is serious about the food—witness Mouthful’s

After relocating a few blocks from its original downtown San Luis Obispo site, Seeds (tasteseeds.com) continues its reign as a go-to spot for the brunch bunch. Owner Rammy Aburashed offers a menu of breakfast panini, toasts, flatbreads, salads, smoothies, acai bowls, and juices from Pressed Juicery. Toast dishes feature wares from local bakery House of Bread, and gluten-free options are available. Libations include frozé made with a rotating selection of local rosés and mimosas crafted with sparkling wine from Opolo Vineyards, both topped with Instagram-worthy edible flowers. inclusion on Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in the U.S. for 2015. La Sarita, a sandwich of house-roasted pork shoulder served with fried sweet potatoes and pickled red onions, gets its heat from an aioli made with aji amarillo, a pepper from Sanchez’s native Peru. Additions at dinner might include malbec-braised short ribs on polenta one night and savory chicken stew called aji de gallina the next. Desserts include alfajores, delicate shortbread cookies filled with salted caramel. The Foodies in Training children’s menu includes a turkey slider with fruit, yucca fries, and a drink, all for $6.

NELLA KITCHEN & BAR 2860 Grand Ave. Los Olivos, 805-686-1359 nellakitchen.com California-Italian; Entrées $36–$44, Pinsas $14–$35, Small Plates $14–$26

The team behind S.Y. Kitchen in Santa Ynez operates this rustic-chic restaurant and bar located inside the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn. Executive chef and partner Luca Crestanelli oversees the offerings, favoring refined comfort food made with farm-fresh ingredients. The evolving menu features selections of cheeses and charcuterie, small plates, and main courses like Wagyu Short Ribs. Crispy Roman-style pinsa (which has a lower gluten index than pizza) is perfect for nibbling with specialty cocktails, local beers, and Italian drafts, or a glass from the wine list that spotlights Santa Barbara County vintages, including selections from Fess Parker Winery. Warm woods and earth tones make the dining room inviting, and the outdoor patio seating is divine.

OLIO E LIMONE RISTORANTE, OLIO BOTTEGA AND OLIO PIZZERIA 11 W. Victoria St., Suites 17-18, and Suite 21 Santa Barbara, 805-899-2699 olicucina.com Italian; Restaurant Entrées $20–$42, Bottega $4–$12, Pizzeria $6–$28

Husband-and-wife owners Alberto Morello and Elaine Andersen Morello preside over these three Italian venues. At the ristorante, salads, seafood, chicken, and chops are served alongside house-made pastas and sauces. Olio Bottega, a casual breakfast, lunch, snack, and retail spot next door, serves egg dishes, Italian croissants, and espresso drinks for breakfast and hot Italian street food specialties and panini on house-made focaccia for lunch. Shop from a selection of Italian specialty products, cocktails, beer, and wine to take home. At the pizzeria, enjoy chicken, fish, and beef entrées, pasta, antipasti, salads, and panini. Pizzas are topped with gourmet ingredients, such as sautéed rapini, spicy salami, and black truffles. MARCH 2022 / 805LIVING.COM

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Where to Eat Now OLIVELLA 905 Country Club Road Ojai, 805-646-1111 ojaivalleyinn.com California-Italian; Entrées $37–$65 (a threecourse experience is $90 or $150 with wine pairings; four-course experience is $110 or $180 with wine pairings) Great Views, Romantic

This fine-dining restaurant at Ojai Valley Inn features California cuisine with an Italian twist. From chef de cuisine Andrew Foskey’s menus come beautifully plated dishes like Kabocha Squash Ravioli, Tails & Trotters Farm Tenderloin of Pork, and Wild Pacific Sea Bass. Save room for the Citrus Olive Oil Cake or Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta, just two of executive pastry chef Joel Gonzalez’s creative dessert options. Dining spaces include a private wine room as well as a veranda overlooking the first and final holes of the property’s world-class golf course. The restaurant also hosts winemaker dinners.

Turning up the heat in Port Hueneme, Dave’s Hot Chicken (daveshotchicken.com) just opened a location in the Mandalay Village Marketplace. The brand that started out in 2017 as an East Hollywood parking lot pop-up now has outposts in nine states, with 24 in California. Guests can choose their preferred heat levels and dig into tenders and sliders with Dave’s special sauce, along with sides of fries, macaroni and cheese, and kale slaw. The order-at-the-counter eatery offers indoor and outdoor seating, takeout, and delivery. PICO AT THE LOS ALAMOS GENERAL STORE 458 Bell St. Los Alamos, 805-344-1122 picolosalamos.com New American; Shared Plates & Entrées $9–$46 Live Music

The spirit of a one-stop general store lives on in the historic town of Los Alamos, the northern gateway to the Santa Ynez Valley. The outstanding chef-driven, locally sourced dinner menu from executive chef John Wayne Formica changes frequently but offers dishes like local crudo, grilled octopus, house-made pastas, smoked pork chop, and dry-aged rib-eye steak. Charcuterie and cheese platters are a mainstay. Pair the fare with a signature cocktail, beer, or wine from the well-curated list spotlighting small-scale vintners, which earned Pico “Top 100 Wine Restaurant” recognition from Wine Enthusiast Magazine. The spacious, refurbished building is also the tasting room of Lane Tanner and Will Henry’s Lumen Wines of Santa Maria. Upscale but down home, Pico is keeping destination diners as well as the local cowboys coming back for more.

SANTO MEZCAL 119 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-883-3593 santomezcalsb.com Contemporary Mexican; Entrées $15–$26

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Located a block from the beach on the edge of the buzzy Funk Zone, this stylish venture from restaurateur Carlos Luna offers a fresh take on Mexican dishes made with local ingredients. The menu celebrates seafood with plates such as Halibut Ceviche and Camarones al Mescal (Mexican shrimp sautéed in a creamy mezcal sauce). Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily. A full bar pours creative craft cocktails and selections from wine and beer lists with local and international labels. Happy hour hums weekdays from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.

THE SPOON TRADE 295 West Grand Ave. Grover Beach, 805-904-6773 thespoontrade.com American; Entrées $15–$32 Great Patio, Sunday Brunch

The Spoon Trade serves what chef Jacob Town calls “elevated comfort food” in a bright and comfortable neighborhood hangout. Classic dishes (think: fried chicken, pasta, and upside-down cakes) are reimagined with of-the-moment flavors and local ingredients alongside a progressive beer and wine list.

S.Y. KITCHEN 1110 Faraday St. Santa Ynez, 805-691-9794 sykitchen.com Italian; Entrées $20–$38

Located on a quiet side street in Santa Ynez, this cozy spot is an oasis of craft cocktails and rustic Italian fare in wine and tri-tip country. Executive chef Luca Crestanelli lets his native Italian roots show in house-made pastas such as wild mushroom pappardelle, salmon puttanesca, and a don’t-miss grilled globe-artichoke appetizer. With its firepits and padded lounge seating, The Courtyard is a great place to settle in for pre-dinner cocktails and glasses of local wine or to stay for the whole meal. A lunch menu of salads, pastas, and oak-grilled meats and seafood is served daily.

TRE LUNE 1151 Coast Village Road Montecito, 805-969-2646 trelunesb.com Italian; Entrées $18–$37

Tre Lune, or “three moons,” is part of the Montesano Group, which owns Lucky’s in Montecito and Joe’s in Santa Barbara—and it shows. The walls are dressed in black-and-white photos of celebrities from yesteryear, the floors are Old World wood, and the tables are covered in blush-colored linen. Teeny tiny chairs mounted high on the wall bear brass plates engraved with the names of regular patrons. A ring-shaped, rolled pizza-bread appetizer is stuffed with smoked mozzarella and braised radicchio. It’s crispy outside and delicious inside. Pizzas from the stone oven can be topped with roasted eggplant, spicy sausage, or mushrooms and truffle oil. The wide selection of pastas are available in half or full portions. Veal scaloppine, rack of lamb, chicken Marsala, and even a cheeseburger round out the menu and support the extensive Italian wine list.

WINE CASK 813 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-966-9463 winecask.com Wine Country Cuisine Entrées $28–$42; Chef’s tasting menu $75 for five courses, $95 for eight courses

Romantic Founded in 1981, the Wine Cask is pleasing palates with executive chef Jeremy Van Kralingen, a native of Hilo, Hawaii, in the kitchen. Local ingredients still inform dishes at every turn, especially in the tasting menus that feature Santa Barbara County labels in

the optional wine pairings. The regular dinner menu includes Santa Barbara Channel sea bass with gremolata, duck confit with farro and strawberry sofrito, and pan-roasted rib eye with umami potatoes. Desserts echo the elegant simplicity of the restaurant: Bread pudding with bourbon-salted caramel sauce is a traditional standout, joined by newer options like lemon meringue ice-cream tart and a Nutella cheesecake with pretzel brittle. California wines are the focus of the international wine list.

Good Eats

Not too fancy, not too expensive, and a good experience all around. BRENT’S DELI 2799 Townsgate Road Westlake Village, 805-557-1882 brentsdeli.com Deli; Entrées $6–$20 Kid-Friendly

For amazingly good Reuben sandwiches on rye bread piled high with pastrami or corned beef, sauerkraut, and Thousand Island dressing, you can’t beat this slick deli. The booths are cushy and roomy, leaving space for your tummy to expand as you down a fourlayer slice of chocolate cake or a plate full of stuffed cabbage rolls. A separate bar also offers the full menu. The patio out back allows for even more seating. A counter up front expedites take-out orders. Brent’s Deli is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily.

FINNEY’S CRAFTHOUSE 982 S. Westlake Blvd., Suite 2 Westlake Village, 805-230-9950 and 494 E Main St., Ventura, 805-628-3312 and 35 State St., Suite A Santa Barbara, 805-845-3100 and 857 Monterey St. San Luis Obispo, 805-439-2556 finneyscrafthouse.com American; Entrées $10–$16 Kid-Friendly

The “craft beer spoken here” neon sign in the dining room doesn’t quite say it all at this casual but polished gastropub owned by Greg Finefrock, an 805 local whose childhood nickname inspired the restaurant’s moniker. In addition to the 30 brews on tap, you’ll find craft cocktails, California wines by the glass and bottle, and a fun atmosphere and menu that has something for everyone. With variations in decor between locations (look for the skee-ball machine and photo booth in San Luis Obispo), the menu remains the same. Shareable appetizers include gluten-free buffalo cauliflower tossed in yuzu sauce and chicken-and waffle bites that come with a tangy surprise: Tabasco-braised kale. The house burger is made with a chuck, brisket, and hanger steak patty on a brioche bun (options include gluten-free buns and plant-based Impossible Burger patties). Crispy tacos, salads, and flatbread pizzas are also available. Seating is first-come, first-served at the copper bar.

JANE 1311 State St. Santa Barbara, 805-962-1311 janesb.com and Jane at The Marketplace 6940 Marketplace Drive Goleta, 805-770-5388 janeatthemarketplace.com Eclectic; Entrées $9–$34

Devoted fans keep coming back for the well-executed main dishes, pastas, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and daily specials at these sister eateries, which are named for owner Margaret Huston’s mother Jane Moody, whose pictures adorn the walls. The Santa Barbara location is open for dinner, offering entrées that range from grilled duck breast and filet mignon to Chicken Picatta and penne with house-made Bolognese sauce. For dessert, don’t miss the coconut chiffon cake. The Goleta venue is open for lunch and happy hour as well as dinner. The menu there is similar but also includes oak-fired, brick-oven pizzas.

Fun, Fun, Fun

NEW LIMEÑA PERUVIAN EATERY 2388 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd. Thousand Oaks, 805-371-1370 limenaeatery.com Peruvian; Entrées $12–$19

No visit to Ventura Harbor—or to Ventura, period—is complete without a stop at Andria’s, a locals’ favorite since 1982. On weekends, the fast-moving line to order can stretch out onto the restaurant’s front patio. Additional seating includes indoor dining rooms decorated with vintage photos and fishing gear, and a protected patio with a view of the docks. Charbroiled fresh catch of the day dinners come with rice pilaf, bread, and a choice of salads. Some items are available in stir-fry dishes. But deep-fried is the preferred method of preparation for everything from onion rings (served in a towering stack) to halibut and chips, oysters and chips, popcorn shrimp and chips, and, well, you get the idea. The atmosphere is beach casual: Orders are called out by number when ready, and it’s up to diners to gather utensils, tartar sauce, and other fixin’s from a counter near the kitchen. Beer and wine are available. An on-site fish market is open daily.

For authentic Peruvian specialties served with pride, look no further than this friendly, family-owned café. Sit in the cheerful dining room or outside on the patio and enjoy entrées such as Polo a la Brasa rotisserie chicken and Lomo Saltado Plate, a traditional beef stir-fry dish. Appetizers include ceviche made with fresh halibut and Peruvian corn and Tamal de Pollo con Salsa Criolla, chicken tamales made in banana leaves and topped with red-onion salad. Sip wine and beer from Peru and Argentina or a pisco sour.

POOKIE’S THAI CUISINE 900 Hampshire Road Westlake Village, 805-381-0094 pookiethai.com Thai; Entrées $7–$13 Kid-Friendly

Downstairs in the Water Court Plaza office complex, owner Pookie creates delicious Thai dishes for lunch and dinner daily. Lunch specials are a steal at $7 to $8 each. She also has a wide selection of interesting salads like the Outrageous Beef Salad with a spicy lime dressing and the protein-rich Yam Yai salad with shrimp, chicken, egg, and peanuts in a sweet-andsour dressing. Noodle dishes are generously sized and include the classic pad Thai and the interesting Hi Yo Silver with fried noodles, shrimp, and bean sprouts. Curries, vegetarian options, and fish dishes (such as the crispy sole with tamarind and chili sauce) give diners lots of great choices not found elsewhere.

THE STONEHAUS 32039 Agoura Road Westlake Village, 818-483-1152 the-stonehaus.com Mediterranean Sandwiches and Platters $10–$17 Dog-Friendly, Great Views, Kid‑Friendly, Romantic

Patterned after an Italian enoteca, the aptly named Stonehaus starts each day as a coffeehouse, serving kale-berry smoothies along with baked goods, wraps, and breakfast sandwiches from Lisa Biondi, executive chef at the adjacent Mediterraneo at the Westlake Village Inn. It switches to wine bar mode in the afternoons and evenings, when the menu includes charcuterie and crostini platters, salads, panini, and desserts. The outdoor pizza oven is fired up nightly (check website for hours). Wine flights are arranged by regions, varietals, and themes. Patios overlook the waterfall and the working vineyard, which is open for picnicking on Stonehaus fare (check website for information about seasonal tastings and festivals). The picnic tables and bocce ball court are family friendly, and visiting canines get a water fountain of their own near the courtyard fireplace.

MORE ON THE WEB: Visit 805living.com for more listings and to make quick and easy reservations at many of the restaurants listed here and on the website through Open Table.

Look to these eateries for festive food, an upbeat atmosphere, and a good time. ANDRIA’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & MARKET 1449 Spinnaker Drive Ventura, 805-654-0546 andriasseafood.com Seafood; Entrées $8–$24 Kid-Friendly

BETTINA 1014 Coast Village Road Montecito Country Mart Montecito, 805-770-2383 bettinapizzeria.com Pizza/Italian; Entrées and Pizzas $12–$22

First-timers to Bettina may think they’ve taken a wrong turn and ended up in Italy. At this bustling, cozy neighborhood restaurant patrons sip a Venetian spritz or Negroni and nosh on naturally leavened, Neapolitan-style pizzas dressed up with inventive toppings. Antipasti, entrées such as chicken cacciatore, and fresh salads are also on the menu, which changes seasonally but always includes vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Lunch and dinner are served daily; online orders are available for pick up.

CAFÉ HABANA 3939 Cross Creek Road Malibu, 310-317-0300 cafehabana.com Pan-Latin; Entrées $9–$25 Sunday Brunch

Café Habana isn’t limited to Cuban food or cocktails. Dishes represent all of Latin culture, from South American ceviches to Mexican grilled corn and huevos rancheros to Cuban pulled-pork sandwiches. Owner Sean Meenan is an eco-warrior while partner Rande Gerber brings in the celebs and keeps the nightlife hopping. The food is good, the cocktails are great, and the coconut flan is out of this world.

FLOUR HOUSE 690 Higuera St. San Luis Obispo, 805-544-5282 flourhouseslo.com Italian; Starters $5–$21, Pizzas $15–$20, Pastas $19–$28

With a sleek interior, dynamic menu, and portrait of Sophia Loren, Flour House isn’t just a pizzeria: It’s a love song to Italy. Co-owner and Salerno native Alberto Russo works magic with imported flour and a Stefano Ferrara pizza oven, the gold standard for traditional pizza napolitana. During Meter Mondays, pizzas are available in different sizes depending on the number in your party: a half-meter for four people includes a choice of three tastings ($28), while a

Tasty Thai (tastythaiag.com) is now serving authentic Thai noodle dishes (don’t miss the Pad See-Ew), appetizers, chef’s rice bowls, curry bowls, soups, and salads for lunch and dinner in Arroyo Grande. The counter-service eatery represents a dream-come-true for owner Nittaya Pichan, who worked for 11 years with her uncle at the Thai Elephant restaurants in Atascadero and Morro Bay. Pichan offers indoor seating, takeout, and delivery. full meter serves eight with a choice of six tastings ($50). Don’t miss Russo’s house-made pastas or the weekday-night aperitivo hour from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., featuring cocktails such as the classic Negroni and Aperol Spritz as well as beer and wine and appetizers from $4 to $6.

HITCHING POST II 406 E. Highway 246 Buellton, 805-688-0676 hitchingpost2.com Steak House; Entrées $26–$56

A fan favorite since its star turn in the 2004 movie Sideways, Hitching Post II radiates a western-style steak-house feel with down-home service and hearty portions of Santa Maria–style barbecue. In addition to oak-grilled steaks, the menu features ribs, quail, turkey, duck, and seafood. Sip from the Wine Spectator award-winning wine list that includes a selection of Hitching Post labels.

LUCKY PENNY 127 Anacapa St. Santa Barbara, 805-284-0358 luckypennysb.com Californian; Entrées $11–$16

Located in Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone, this orderat-the-counter spot ranks as one of the city’s most Instagrammed restaurants. The exterior covered in thousands of shiny copper pennies is a draw, but so is the creative menu of close-up-worthy salads, sandwiches, small plates, and wood-fired pizzas. The latter includes such local-place-named favorites as the Milpas, topped with fingerling potatoes, chorizo, and a sunny-side-up egg. Salads are big enough to turn into a meal or to share with a friend who orders pizza. Seating is on a pet-friendly patio adjacent to The Lark restaurant. Coffee is served, along with beer, wine, cider, and a life-giving frosé accented with local strawberries and tarragon.

TAVERNA TONY 23410 Civic Center Way Malibu, 310-317-9667 tavernatony.com Greek; Entrées $13–$37

This huge space at the northeast corner of the Malibu Country Mart is almost never closed and never empty. There’s always fun to be had: If the classical guitarists aren’t playing, the waiters might be singing. Every meal starts with Greek-style country bread and house-made dip. The roast baby lamb is a specialty of the house for good reasons: The meat is garlicky and mostly tender with some crispy bites. The accompanying potatoes are roasted with lemon juice and the carrots are cooked with dill. Greek coffee is a perfect end here. 

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805 Living March 2022

Articles inside

DINING OUT New Digs for Decker Kitchen

SPIRITS: Van Gogh in a Glass

TRAVEL

Garden Glory

Feasts for the Eyes

FOOD: On the Rise