812 Summer/Fall 2018

Page 1

Pickleball: Where, how and why you should play

The life-changing words of incarcerated men

Art, music & food at Haynie’s Corner

S U M M E R / F A L L 2 0 18

BLOOMINGTON

TURNS

200 People who shaped our city Pivotal moments 6XUSULVLQJ ƓUVWV

+One family’s legacy

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ON THE COVER:

26 Bloomington turns 200 The visionary people, pivotal moments and steadfast spirit that shaped our history.

FEATURES

9

Writing for release

20

DEPARTMENTS Pickled!

,QPDWHV Ć“QG WKH OLEHUDWLQJ SRZHU RI SRHWU\ Story by Adèle Poudrier and pictures by Kendall Fleder

$Q XQOLNHO\ VSRUW LV FRXUWLQJ WKH UHJLRQ Story by Kaleigh Howland and Maia Rabenold

14

40

Where the bison roamed

)ROORZ LQ WKH ZDNH RI WKH ELVRQ KHUGV WKDW VKDSHG RXU ODQGVFDSH Story by Gillian Fulford and Elaina Wilson

Down on the corner

$UWLVWV DQG SUHVHUYDWLRQLVWV DUH EUHDWKLQJ QHZ OLIH LQWR WKLV YHQHUDEOH (YDQVYLOOH QHLJKERUKRRG Story by Anna Makris

45 Finding roots 6LQJHU VRQJZULWHU .ULVWD 'HWRU IRXQG LQVSLUDWLRQ DQG LQWHUQDWLRQDO VXFFHVV LQ D SODFH VKH QHYHU H[SHFWHG Story by Jessica Smith

GET OUT OF TOWN

6

Walking on water

WHAT I’VE LEARNED

7

Jesse Eisenberg, actor

TASTE OF SOUTHERN INDIANA

8

The golden mushroom

THE 812 LIST

down or 50 Upside right side up? On the cover: $ GURQHĹ?V YLHZ RI WKH 0RQURH &RXQW\ &RXUWKRXVH 3KRWR E\ -DPHV %URVKHU DW -DPHV %URVKHU 3KRWRJUDSK\ EURVKHU FRP 6SHFLDO WKDQNV WR 0DOLQGD $VWRQ 6WHYH /D\WRQ DQG /LQGD -RKQVRQ IRU WKHLU DVVLVWDQFH LQ WKH SXEOLFDWLRQ RI 7KH 0DJD]LQH RI 6RXWKHUQ ,QGLDQD

3 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

812 M A G A Z I N E S TA F F

NOTE FROM THE EDITOR As a Bloomington native, I’ve always valued Southern Indiana’s diversity and hospitality. My Hoosier sense of adventure LQVSLUHG PH WR H[SORUH WKH UHJLRQ throughout my life, and I’m delighted that the 812 staff has this opportunity to join me in sharing that spirit with readers. With Bloomington now in its bicentennial year, the city was buzzing with preparations as we FRPSRVHG WKLV LVVXH :H SURË‹OHG some of Bloomington’s most LQËŒXHQWLDO SHRSOH GHOYHG LQWR WKH city’s pivotal moments, compiled then-and-now photos of familiar SOPHIE BIRD landmarks and told the story of (',725 ,1 &+,() one of Bloomington’s founding families – the Sewards. This issue of 812 has introduced me to everything from SLFNOHEDOO DQG ZRUOG IDPRXV PXVLFLDQV WR FODVVLF ,QGLDQD Ë‹QGV OLNH FKDQWHUHOOH PXVKURRPV 6RXWKHUQ ,QGLDQD LV D PL[ RI IDPLOLDU DQG KLGGHQ JHPV Č&#x; OLNH SDGGOHERDUGLQJ DORQJVLGH IUHVKZDWHU MHOO\Ë‹VK LQ Patoka Lake, following the path of long-disappeared bison, reading the poetry of incarcerated men and hearing actor Jesse Eisenberg’s thoughts on domestic violence, all featured in these pages. /RFDOV DQG YLVLWRUV DOLNH FDQ Ë‹QG VR PXFK WR OHDUQ GLVFRYHU DQG enjoy. I hope you have as much fun as I did.

4 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

812 THE MAGAZINE OF SOUTHERN INDIANA Summer/Fall 2018 Volume 8, Number 1 812 was conceived, reported, written, photographed, edited and designed by students in J481: Creating an Indiana Magazine at the Indiana University Media School. Contents may not be reproduced without the written consent of the School. <RX FDQ DOVR ˋQG H[FOXVLYH RQOLQH VWRULHV at our website, 812magazine.com. If you’re interested in advertising in 812, or if you’d like copies to distribute at your place of business, please contact ads@idsnews.com. FOLLOW US: @812Magazine

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THE 812 STAFF

Jessica Smith

Maia Rabenold Art director

Assistant art director

Photo editor

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Kaleigh Howland

Shelby Stivale Online editor

Departments editor

Elaina Wilson

Kendall Fleder

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Christine Fernando

Anna Makris

Staff writer

Gillian Fulford

Mariah Lee

Adèle Poudrier

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Staff writer

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Zoe Spilker

Nancy Comiskey

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SUMMER/ FALL 2018

GET OUT OF TOWN

Water alking on

SUPciety brings paddleboard tours to French Lick.

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By Sophie Bird

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6 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

UPciety Stand UP Paddle owner Ryan Niederberger, 35, can describe KLV Ë‹UVW WLPH RQ D SDGGOHERDUG LQ RQH word: “Euphoric,â€? he says. He recalls the sensation clearly – the glide of the board on the water, the way time fell away. But there’s something about the soul of the sport that he can’t quite put into words. Ȥ+RZ GR \RX H[SODLQ ZDONLQJ RQ water?â€? he asks. 7KDW Ë‹UVW SDGGOH ZDV VL[ \HDUV DJR near Cape Coral, Florida, where Niederberger owned a computer repair shop. Before long, he would own a paddleERDUG UHQWDO VWDQG ËŒRDW DORQJVLGH dolphins and manatees, participate in more than 10 races and paddle 14 miles each way to a shore-side Christmas party while wearing a Santa hat. When he moved to French Lick a year ago to be with the woman who is now his wife, Niederberger wanted to bring that euphoric feeling with him. So, he opened SUPciety paddleboarding and began leading tours of Patoka Lake, the second-largest reservoir in Southern Indiana. The lake is best known for its bald eagles, river otters, ospreys and IUHVKZDWHU MHOO\Ë‹VK DV ZHOO DV VWULNing waterfalls. Niederberger says he’s particularly fond of showing SUPciety paddlers the cliff faces along the shore of the 8,800-acre lake.

“Everyone I’ve taken back there has had their jaw drop,â€? he says. Niederberger takes groups of about seven people on daytime, sunset and nighttime paddles. While daytime paddles focus primarily on scenery, nighttime paddles are a little different. Participants are equipped with glow sticks and lights on the front of their boards to help illuminate the dark. “It’s really the energy of the group more than the visuals that you’re there for,â€? Niederberger says. For paddling novices, SUPciety begins every tour with a lesson on the basics. Niederberger says anyone can paddleboard, regardless of previous H[SHULHQFH Ȥ$OO LW WDNHV LV D OLWWOH EDOance,â€? he says. “It doesn’t take a lot of SK\VLFDO Ë‹WQHVV WR JHW LW GRQH ČĽ Last season, groups came from all over Indiana and northern Kentucky to paddle with Niederberger. That success was a joy, he says, but not really a surprise. He fell in love with paddleboarding, and says he knows others will, too. “When I started this, I said to myself, This area needs this,â€? Niederberger says. “It was a leap of faith.â€? SUPciety’s 2018 season runs through late September, with tours costing $50 per person for two hours. For more information or to schedule a paddle, visit www.supciety.com.

Fast facts: HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO LEARN?

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WHAT I’VE LEARNED

Jesse Eisenberg, actor The Oscar-nominated star has worked with Middle Way House for nearly a decade. By Adèle Poudrier

I

n Hollywood, Jesse Eisenberg is known for movies like “The Social Network� and “Zombieland,� but in Bloomington he’s an advocate for Middle Way House, a domestic violence shelter that his mother-inlaw, Toby Strout, directed for over 30 years. While a national conversation RQ VH[XDO DVVDXOW EHJDQ LQ HDUQHVW last year, Eisenberg has contributed WR WKH ˋJKW DJDLQVW WKH SUREOHP IRU nearly a decade. He started a $100,000 matching campaign that raised $600,000 for the local shelter. Now, he shares ideas on how we can help change the culture in Bloomington, Hollywood and beyond.

Victims are safer if people rally around them. Toby Strout made a point to engage with the community rather than hide from it. A lot of domestic violence shelters are hidden in an attempt to protect residents, but Toby’s method came from the idea that women are safer when the community rallies around them.

We can’t let microaggressions slide. I’ve really recognized microDJJUHVVLRQV RU PLFUR H[DPSOHV WKDW perpetuate assault against women. It starts with a fundamental disrespect RU REMHFWLˋFDWLRQ RU LQ P\ LQGXVWU\ VH[XDOL]DWLRQ RI \RXQJ ZRPHQ Something that I’ve always noticed in reading movie scripts is the men’s physicality is never described and a woman’s physicality, irrespective of her role, is described. So even if she is a woman who is not supposed to EH VH[XDOL]HG E\ WKH VWRU\OLQH KHU physicality is still discussed. I’ve

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become so much more acutely aware of the prevalence of it in the last decade.

Educating youth about relationships is essential. Education from a young age, to not only report domestic violence but to understand healthy relationships and intimate partnerships, is vital so the problem doesn’t fester and become something much worse later.

Almost everyone is touched by the issue. Doing a little investigating within your circle will reveal that you are surrounded by people who are affected

by this. A simple way that all of us can get involved is by being a responsible partner to whomever we decide to be with.

We all must engage in changing the culture. On the last movie I did, an actor was disrespectful to women in the costume department. He was let go without any hesitation. Everybody was proud to be working on a set that was looking out for the welfare of its crew. More interesting was the casual attitude we had about someone being let go on a movie set, which is normally a big deal. You could just see, almost overnight, that the culture on a movie set is different. We were all aware that, yes, the culture has changed.

7 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

TASTE OF SOUTHERN INDIANA

The

golden mushroom By Jessica Smith

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Chanterelles are a savory treat to unearth this summer. )RU WKRVH RI XV LQ ,QGLDQD IURP -XQH WR $XJXVW D JROGHQ WUHDW PDNHV LWV ZD\ XS WKURXJK WKH IRUHVW ËŒRRU DQG LQWR RXU PDUkets, our restaurants and our homes. With a fruity apricot aroma and a peppery, earthy taste, the trumpet-shaped chanteUHOOH PXVKURRP LV D FRPPRQ EXW VWLOO SUL]HG Ë‹QG 0DUN :RWHQ IURP WKH 6RXWKHUQ ,QGLDQD 0XVKURRP +XQWHUV JURXS RIIHUV advice to get novice chanterelle hunters on the right path.

8 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

SEARCH DILIGENTLY

PREPARE DELICATELY

BUT BE CAUTIOUS

Woten says a novice hunter’s best bet is the Hoosier National Forest. The park’s many ravines are good spots for chanterelles as they generally grow on the side of a hill near a creek. The water that runs down shaded ravines keeps these areas dark and damp. With luck and patience, you’ll bring home a bag of chanterelles. Store them in a paper bag in a cool, dry place. A plastic bag will retain too much moisture.

Don’t make the common mistake of cleaning chanterelles with water. “Water starts to bruise them almost immediately,â€? Woten says. “If you’re going to wash them, you have to use them immediately.â€? Instead, Woten says cutting the bottom of the stem will take care of the majority of the dirt. For the rest, use a soft brush. When you’re ready to cook them, Woten recommends sautĂŠing them in butter with salt and pepper. He says it’s the best way to appreciate the taste.

Never ever eat something unless you’re 100 percent sure what it is. A chanterelle look-alike, the highly poisonous Jack o’ lantern mushroom, could fool you with its dark orange color. Woten says to look for “gills� – the lines that run down mushrooms. While the chanterelle’s gills stop at the stem, the jack-o-lantern’s run all the way down. Woten says that’s a common distinction between poisonous and harmless mushrooms, but not always. Better to be safe.

Writing for release

$DURQ &UDIWRQ KROGV KLV SRHP Ĺ?6LQQHUĹ?V 3UD\HU Ĺ?

Inmates at the Monroe County Correctional Center discover the liberating power of words through a weekly poetry class. Words by Adèle Poudrier Photos by Kendall Fleder

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YHU\ QLJKW IRU WKH Ë‹UVW PRQWKV RI 0D[ 6PLWKȢV time in the Monroe County Correctional Center, a steel door locked him into a 70-square-foot cell he shared with another inmate. From 11:30 p.m. to 10 a.m., he would sit or lie on his bed. At 6, breakfast was served in the cell. At 10, the doors opened, and the 53-year-old inmate would take some time to shower before 11, when he had to go back into his cell for OXQFK )URP WR S P 0D[ ZHQW WR D URRP ZLWK DERXW other men. Some played cards, some did push-ups, and others sought out weaker inmates to prey upon. 0D[ KLV VPLOH PLVVLQJ D IURQW WRRWK DOZD\V NHSW KLV H\HV WR WKH JURXQG +H ZDVQȢW ORRNLQJ WR Ë‹JKW From 5:30 to 6, he ate dinner. After that, he searched for ways to pass the time, the same questions echoing in his head. When am I going to get out? Will any of my belongings still be there? How did I ever get here?

+H QHYHU WKRXJKW KHȢG Ë‹QG WKH answers through poetry. )LIWHHQ PRQWKV LQWR KLV VHQWHQFH 0D[ PRYHG into a recovery dorm in the jail he shared with 11 other men in the New Leaf – New Life program, designed to help LQPDWHV PDNH WKH WUDQVLWLRQ WR WKH RXWVLGH ZRUOG $W Ë‹UVW the weekly poetry class led by volunteer Frank Brown Cloud might have seemed like a side note. However, Frank’s weekly writing prompts, the poems he shared and the readings of RWKHU LQPDWHVȢ ZRUN EHFDPH DQ HVFDSH IRU 0D[ )RU WKH ODVW WZR DQG KDOI \HDUV 0D[ DQG RWKHUV OLNH KLP have written hundreds of poems and even had their words published in newspapers and the book Poems From the Jail Dorm 7KH IROORZLQJ SURË‹OHV RI WKUHH RI WKRVH SRHWV illustrate how the class has helped inmates grow, giving WKHP DQ DUWLVWLF RXWOHW WKDW FDQ FRQWLQXH WR ËŒRXULVK RXWVLGH those walls.

9 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Max Smith, 53 “Schismâ€? 'ULYLQJ LW LQ GHHS ,QWR D YLWDO RUJDQ ,QGLIIHUHQFH LV D VZRUG 'RQĹ?W DFW DV LI \RX FDQĹ?W VHH ,WĹ?V VR PXFK HDVLHU DORQH LQ WKH Ć“JKW 7KH GLYLVLRQ LV WKH VDPH DV SHQHWUDWLRQ :H GRQĹ?W ZULWH RXU RZQ SDUWV $V EOXH FROODU ZRUNHUV LQ WKH IDFWRU\ RI RXU RZQ PLQGV , VKRZ XS RQ WLPH UHDG\ WR ZRUN

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UHVVHG LQ WKH ER[\ RUDQJH VXLW KH ZRUH HYHU\ GD\ 0D[ VWRRG LQ WKH 0RQURH &RXQW\ &RUUHFWLRQDO Center staring at a set of doors that didn’t open. He ZDV H[SHFWLQJ WR JR WR FRXUW DQG KHDU DERXW D SOHD bargain he was told could only get better. The original deal RIIHUHG E\ WKH SURVHFXWRU 0D[ VD\V ZDV D FDS RI \HDUV IRU D sack of methamphetamine in a truck he had stepped out of but didn’t own. $V 0D[ WHOOV LW KH ZDV D VXFFHVVIXO GUXJ XVHU ,Q KH worked with a thriving small construction company, and he ËŒHZ PLOHV RQ EXVLQHVV WKDW \HDU +H EXLOW KLV RZQ KRPH and owed nothing on it, drove newer vehicles and even had good credit. However, his drug habit caught up with him. $V KH ZDLWHG IRU WKH KHDULQJ WKDW GD\ 0D[ȢV ZHDU\ EOXH eyes gazed at the doors, and his confusion escalated to anger. “I was pissed off,â€? he says. He hoped he might get into a treatment program or even be released on probation. But 0D[ȢV SXEOLF GHIHQGHU KDGQȢW WROG KLP KLV FRXUW GDWH KDG EHHQ rescheduled. Soon after, he walked into his weekly poetry class with 1HZ /HDI Č&#x; 1HZ /LIH 7KH PRPHQW WKH SHQ ZDV LQ 0D[ȢV KDQG WKH ZRUGV FDPH RXW OLNH Ë‹UH +LV GLVDSSRLQWPHQW FRXSOHG ZLWK news of presidential candidate Donald Trump’s advocacy of

ȤVWRS DQG IULVN ČĽ IXHOHG D SRHP 0D[ ZURWH LQ WKUHH PLQXWHV ËŒDW DQG FDQ VSLW RXW IURP PHPRU\ WR WKLV GD\ “Stop and Friskâ€? captured his anger with stigmatizing people who struggle with addiction and also revealed his RZQ VWRU\ $ IHOORZ GUXJ XVHU KDG UHSRUWHG 0D[ WR WKH SROLFH to lessen his time behind bars. After 15 months “cooking in MDLO ČĽ DV 0D[ FDOOV LW KH Ë‹QDOO\ HVFDSHG LQWR WKH IRXU ZDOOV RI D poetry class. 6LQFH WKDW GD\ 0D[ KDV ZULWWHQ DERXW HYHU\WKLQJ IURP politics to the death of his girlfriend, who lost her life to drug XVH LQ 1RYHPEHU (DFK ZHHN WKDW 0D[ ZURWH D SRHP Brown Cloud would type it out and add a page of feedback. 0D[ ZDV EDIËŒHG WKDW VRPHRQH JDYH VR PXFK WKRXJKW WR WKH words he had written. In the class, he formed relationships and found support. 0D[ KDV EHHQ RXW RI MDLO VLQFH 6HSWHPEHU DQG KDV FRPSOHWed his required time at the drug-addiction treatment facility Amethyst House. He now works as a carpenter in Bloomington and lives in his own apartment. He walks away from his two and half years in jail knowing that the words “freedomâ€? and “friendshipâ€? share the same /DWLQ URRW IRU D UHDVRQ $V IRU WKH SRHPV 0D[ ZURWH LQ FODVV" He still has every one.

Aaron Crafton, 33 Excerpt from “Sinner’s Prayerâ€? ,Ĺ?G UDWKHU VHH P\ VHUPRQ WKHQ KHDU LW DQ\ GD\ , WU\ WR EH D PDQ RI ORYH EXW RIWHQ IDOO DZD\ ,Ĺ?OO DOZD\V EH UHDO ZLWK \RX EXW VR IDNH WR P\VHOI $QG LQ P\ PLQG LV D ZDU P\ VHOI FUHDWHG +HOO , WKLQN DERXW LW GDLO\ , TXHVWLRQ ZKR , DP %XW , KHDU \RX ZKLVSHULQJ LQ P\ HDU Ĺ?IRU \RX , KDYH D SODQ Ĺ? <RX VD\ \RX XVH WKH IRROLVK WKLQJV WR DOZD\V VFKHPH WKH ZLVH %XW LQ P\ KHDUW ,Ĺ?P VWUXJJOLQJ /RUG SOHDVH RSHQ P\ H\HV

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hen Aaron Crafton wrote his favorite poem, “Sinner’s Prayer,â€? he wasn’t writing for an audience. He was just tired of seeing people dying. He has some tattoos on his forearms and hair trimmed close to his head, and he speaks calmly, even though a nervous smile occasionally breaks through. 7KH Ë‹UVW WLPH $DURQ GLG KHURLQ WKH KLJK ZDV OLNH QR RWKHU But that was the problem. He couldn’t stop chasing the euphoria KH RQO\ RQFH H[SHULHQFHG 6R ZKHQ KH JRW LQWR %URZQ &ORXGȢV class, he wrote about his struggles with heroin and the death the drug has brought to others. Before being sentenced for a theft charge, Aaron was living with his mother and strung out on heroin. According to Aaron, the addiction is a lot deeper than what it’s stereotyped to be. “It’s not just a choice,â€? he says. “It’s really a lifestyle. It’s a demon.â€? :KHQ KH Ë‹UVW ZDONHG LQWR WKH FODVVURRP LQ 1RYHPEHU he didn’t think he could do it. He didn’t know anything about writing poetry, but he decided to try. His work has since been published in the community publication Safety Net. But he also writes for a much smaller audience, his mother. She’s a psychotherapist who has watched him struggle with an addiction that led to overdoses four times. When she read

the poems, she began to understand his battle with heroin. Two years after he gave her his poems, she still has them neatly folded in an envelope. While it’s important to Aaron for his mother to read his work, he often writes his poems as if he’s speaking to someone else. He uses “you,â€? “Lordâ€? and “Godâ€? in his writing. He says he isn’t religious, but spirituality is what keeps him going. Growing up, he got involved with gangs, a mentality he GHVFULEHV DV ȤRQH ZD\ LV WKH RQO\ ZD\ ČĽ 2YHU WLPH KLV H[SHULences behind bars changed that outlook. One of his best friends in prison was Muslim, and they would pray together. While Aaron doesn’t worship a particular god, it was revelaWRU\ WR KLP WKDW KH FRXOG FR H[LVW DQG UHVSHFW WKH EHOLHIV RI another who did. Aaron now lives with his mother and works as a carpenter DORQJVLGH 0D[ 6PLWK ,Q KLV IUHH WLPH KH VWLOO OLNHV WR SLFN XS the pen, even without his instructor’s weekly writing prompts. While poetry helps him with kicking addiction, communicating with family and voicing spirituality, what he enjoys the most about writing is how the message can be completely different for every reader. “Each person who reads it has a different view,â€? Aaron says. “That’s one of the most beautiful things about it.â€?

11 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Craig Grimes, 38 “Untitledâ€? $GGLFWLRQ QHHGV D SDFLĆ“HU 7KH IHHOLQJ RI WKLV SRLVRQ WDNLQJ PH KLJKHU , WKRXJKW LW IHOW ULJKW EXW WKDW ULJKW ZDV ZURQJ 7U\LQJ WR Ć“JXUH RXW ZKDW LWĹ?V OLNH PRYLQJ RQ ĹŒ&DXVH ZHĹ?UH OLYLQJ DW WKH PHUF\ RI WKH SDLQ DQG WKH IHDU 8QWLO ZH JHW LW IRUJHW LW OHW LW DOO GLVDSSHDU 6R SLFNLQJ XS WKH SLHFHV QRZ ZKHUH WR EHJLQ 7KH KDUGHVW SDUW RI HQGLQJ LV VWDUWLQJ DJDLQ

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12 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

hen Craig Grimes was a restaurant manager, he would toss aside an application if the question “Have you ever been convicted of a felony?� was checked “yes.� He never thought that one day he’d be on the other side of the table. Craig graduated from Ball State University with a love for cooking. He became a general manager at a Steak n’ Shake and eventually took over seven stores in central Indiana. /DWHU DV H[HFXWLYH GLUHFWRU RI D UHWLUHPHQW FRPPXQLW\ KH cooked meals for residents three times a day. But the party that started with marijuana when he was 17 never stopped for him. He moved from pot to alcohol, cocaine, ecstasy and then, in the last couple of years, methamphetamine, which he used to wean himself off pills. He wasn’t just enjoying the high anymore. He needed it. That’s when he realized he had a problem. One day, Craig was driving to Bloomington from Kokomo to visit a friend when he got pulled over for speeding. He had VL[ JUDPV RI PHWKDPSKHWDPLQH DQG FDVK +H VD\V WKH PRQH\ FDPH IURP D KRXVH KH KHOSHG ˌLS +H ZDV LQFDUFHUated for dealing methamphetamine, but he insists it was for personal use only. Two months into his 23-month stay at the Monroe County

jail, Craig moved to the New Leaf – New Life dorm, where he began the weekly poetry class taught by Brown Cloud and, at the time, John-Michael Bloomquist. The class was a crowd favorite. He and the 11 other men would lie awake in their bunk beds at 2 a.m., bouncing ideas off one another for the week’s writing prompt. Unlike most men in the class, Craig had written poetry before being incarcerated and had even shared his work on poetry.com. When he started writing in class, he knew he needed to break away from the orderly rhythm he’d been taught. :KHQ %ORRPTXLVW WROG KLP WR ZULWH DERXW D WUDYHO H[SHULence, he launched into his visit to the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina. He wrote about walking into a grand library with three mahogany walls of books, 30-foot FHLOLQJV DQG D ˋUHSODFH EXUQLQJ +LV YLYLG UHWHOOLQJ ZDV SXElished in Poems From the Jail Dorm along with two of his other works. Craig is now a cook at the Runcible Spoon in Bloomington and is over two years sober. While he was a writer before jail, he says Brown Cloud and Bloomquist challenged his writing in a new way. He says a poem doesn’t always have to be a revelatory story, but it has to be honest. “The rawness of it is what makes it beautiful.�

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n November 2016, Frank Brown &ORXG ZDV DERXW VL[ PRQWKV LQWR his time as a poetry teacher at the Monroe County Correctional Center when his mother-in-law was murdered in Albany, New York. The man who killed her had previously spent 10 years in prison in two stints. Each time, he had gone to jail on charges of selling small amounts of drugs. Many of the men Brown Cloud works with today do time for similar crimes. Following her death, Brown Cloud, now 35, continued his poetry class without hesitation. Her murder didn’t convince him that incarcerated people are malicious. It supported his belief that the incarceration system is failing. “It seems very unlikely that he would have been hurt so much that he would do this to my mother-in-law if we hadn’t taken away his life and ruptured all of his social networks,� he says. Brown Cloud believes the killer’s acWLRQV ZHUH LQˌXHQFHG E\ WKH WUDXPD RI being released from jail after almost a GHFDGH ZLWKRXW WKH VNLOOV RU H[SHULHQFH WR ˋW EDFN LQWR VRFLHW\ About 76 percent of U.S. prisonHUV DUH UHDUUHVWHG ZLWKLQ ˋYH \HDUV RI release, according to the National Institute of Justice. Brown Cloud doesn’t claim poetry is the solution to these relapses, but he believes that reading poetry can help inmates deal with the

emotional trauma with which many of them struggle. A full-time writer and dad, Brown Cloud was volunteering with Pages to Prisoners, a group that sends books accompanied by personal letters to inmates, when he was approached by the current president of New Leaf – New Life, Lindsay Badger, to start teaching a poetry class in the jail. It has been nearly two years since his mother-in-law’s murder, and he continues to teach in a way that focusHV RQ UHˌHFWLRQ LQVWHDG RI SXQLVKPHQW He provides inmates with intellectual stimulation, which he believes is a missing component in the incarceration system. Even as New Leaf – New Life struggles for funding, Brown Cloud lays poems on folding tables in a dark room at the Monroe County Correctional Center every Friday at 4 p.m., hoping to bring a thought-provoking hour to these men’s lives. He listens as they share their poetry and then rereads them at festivals and community events. A poem asks for ˋYH PLQXWHV KH VD\V %\ NHHSLQJ WKH message short, he hopes to show the people who read or hear the poems that the poets are men who are human just like anyone else. When asked why poetry is such a powerful art form for the inmates, his answer is simple. “They’re just words, and everybody talks.�

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13 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Where the

BISON roamed

Follow in the wake of the bison herds that shaped our landscape. By Gillian Fulford and Elaina Wilson

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,Q WKH HDUO\ V D \RXQJ H[SORUHU named Eli Farnham and his wife, Jerusha, look over the landscape of Southern Indiana. They know they’re landlocked, but, somehow, they’re lost in a sea — a sea of massive, shaggy, brown creatures that stretches as far as they can see and ËŒRZV VWHDGLO\ WRZDUG WKH JUHDW ULYHU WKH Iroquois call the O-y-o. Jerusha writes in her journal that the furry giants cover the countryside so completely it’s dangerous for their cavalcade to break through. They know the Native Americans and settlers depend on the herd for food and hides. But, more important, they know the herd can go from a walk to a stampede in seconds. So they sit quietly until the beasts pass. By the mid-1800s, this vast sea of bison was gone — all dried up. In 1830, the last free-ranging bison east of the Mississippi was shot in nearby French Lick. But for hundreds of years, the nation’s largest mammal roamed freely across Southern Indiana. Each year, herds trekked from the open prairies of Illinois to the Big Bone and Blue salt licks in Kentucky, shaping our landscape and our history as well. The trail — or trace — they left behind helped early EuroSHDQ VHWWOHUV Ë‹QG WKHLU ZD\ WKURXJK WKH wilderness to set up fur-trapping camps that would eventually become towns. The free-ranging bison’s path from Vincennes to New Albany, known today as the Buffalo Trace, is still visible in several places. And Indiana’s Historic Pathways, a coalition of passionate and dedicated history buffs, are working to mark its history along modern roadways. The group, along with county histoULDQV DQG WRXULVP RIË‹FLDOV LV EUHDWKLQJ new life into the trace, says Mary Ann Hayes, president of the Dubois County Museum and a Pathways member. “The trace became a National Scenic Byway in 2009,â€? Hayes says, “and the IHP is working to celebrate its historical, cultural and archaeological importance.â€? Inspired by their work, we set out to retrace the steps of Indiana’s bison KHUGV ERWK WR H[SORUH WKH WUDFHȢV SDVW DQG WR Ë‹QG QHZ DWWUDFWLRQV WKDW PDNH this historic road trip worthy of any sunny day.

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Vincennes: The trace begins

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Before our journey begins, we need to get one thing straight. Although we are trekking along the Buffalo Trace, the mammal that carved its way into Indiana’s history and landscape was actually the bison — and, yes, there is a difference. In fact, although we often use the two terms interchangeably, buffalo have QHYHU H[LVWHG LQ WKH ZLOG RQ WKLV FRQWLnent. Instead, they’re primarily found in Africa and Asia. In North America, we had bison. For hundreds of years, herds of these bison crossed the Wabash River from the grasslands of Illinois into what is now the city of Vincennes. The shallower waters here made it easier for the small-footed mammal to cross, says Frank Doughman, superintendent of the George Rogers Clark National Historical Museum. Native Americans and bison lived side-by-side in the Hoosier wilderness. The Piankashaw, a local Miami tribe, relied on bison meat as a staple of their diet and frequently traveled along the trace, known to them as “Lan-an-zo-ki-mi-wi,� which means “bison road.� But a change was coming. In 1732, Jean Baptiste Bissot, his family and 10 other men settled in the area to trap EHDYHUV IRU IXU DQG IRXQGHG WKH ˋUVW European settlement in the region. “The crossroads of the Wabash and the Buffalo Trace was what initially drew settlers to Vincennes,� Doughman says. Those who followed used the trace,

already worn into the landscape by bison and local tribes, to move westward. Their encounters with the Native Americans weren’t always friendly. “When white settlers traveling along the Buffalo Trace encountered the Piankashaw, they shot Ë‹UVW ČĽ +D\HV VD\V The settlers also killed bison for food and byproducts like horns and hides. Hayes speculates that the growing number of settlers, plus a particularly harsh winter in the late 1700s, may have caused the bison to stop migrating along their usual trek. By the time Vincennes became the capital of the newly established Indiana Territory in 1800, the bison were mostly gone. By then, the region was home to nearly 4,000 settlers, and the trace bustled with a different kind of activity. Territory Governor William Henry Harrison asked the federal government for land grants “to establish small stations . . . for the accommodation of travelers,â€? according to Wilson’s history. The Buffalo Trace became a mail and stagecoach route between Vincennes and New Albany, since the surrounding woodlands were still so dense that they were almost impenetrable, he wrote. Today, portions of U.S. Route 150 and Indiana State Road 56 follow the bison’s original route. While you’re in Vincennes, visit the 1804 home of Gov. Harrison, who became the ninth U.S. SUHVLGHQW 7KH Ë‹UVW EULFN KRXVH LQ WKH

state, Grouseland is now a museum. Other historic sites include the state’s ROGHVW OLEUDU\ DQG Ë‹UVW VFKRRO RI KLJKHU learning, Jefferson Academy. The George Rogers Clark National Historical Park commemorates the accomplishments of the Revolutionary War hero with murals, D PHPRULDO DQG H[KLELWV If you’re looking for a bite to eat, check out Cafe Moonlight, located at 512 Main St. in Vincennes. This modern eatery features nightly specials like smokedpaprika-and-almond-crusted baked tilapia with crème brĂťlĂŠe for dessert. It’s the perfect place to dream about the moonlight on the Wabash as you prepare IRU WKH QH[W OHJ RI \RXU MRXUQH\

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Dubois County: A pioneer crossroads As the bison moved southeastward from Vincennes, they often stopped in what is now Dubois County. Here the animals wallowed in the mud and found water and sugarcane at the longgone Buffalo Pond, about two miles north of Jasper. Male bison dug their horns down into the marshy earth until they created holes to sit in and HVFDSH WKH ˌLHV +D\HV VD\V OHDGLQJ WR the trail’s nickname, Mud Hole Trace. The families of brothers William DQG -RKQ 0F'RQDOG EHFDPH WKH ˋUVW European settlers when they built their FDELQ LQ FUHDWLQJ WKH ˋUVW SHUmanent settlement in Dubois County. 7KH\ SORZHG ˋHOGV ZKHUH WKH WUDFH crossed the Red Banks Trail, an Indian IRRWSDWK 7KH 0F'RQDOGV ZHUH ˋUVW and second-generation Scotch, English and German pioneers, Hayes says. The McDonalds’ cabin became a stop for weary travelers along the trail, offering food, drink and a place to sleep after a long day traversing the Hoosier wilderness. Traveling on the Buffalo Trace wasn’t easy for the early pioneers. Although the wide trail was easy to SDVV RYHU SRXQGHG ˌDW E\ \HDUV RI bison hooves, Native American raids made travelers wary. Starting in 1812, military rangers patrolled the trail, and their camps sprouted along the trace — one in Dubois County near the mud holes and another in Washington

County, where the path crossed the Big Blue River, Hayes says. Despite the dangers, the trace brought even more settlers to the region. Among them were Thomas and Nancy Lincoln, who moved with their children Abraham and Sarah just seven miles south of Dubois County in 1816, the year Indiana became a state. Abraham, of course, would become the 16th president of the United States. The Lincolns’ log cabin still sits there today. More than a century later in 1936, school superintendent, civil engineer and surveyor George R. Wilson determined the route of the historic Buffalo Trace across Southern Indiana and wrote several prominent books about the history and topography of the region. He began surveying as early as 1896 and continued to do so until his death, working to ensure the children along the trace knew about their heritage. Over the years, the Indiana’s Historic Pathways group, and others working to protect the trace’s legacy, have used Wilson’s detailed research to learn about the history of Southern Indiana and the importance of the trace in modern destinations along its path, Hayes says. Today, many road trip-worthy activities in Dubois County center around the Buffalo Trace. For starters,

the Dubois County Museum showcases Jasper’s history and German heritage. The old factory-turned-museum also features a 6-foot-tall, stuffed bison named Trace, who regularly appeared RQ D SDUDGH ˌRDW IRU WKH DQQXDO 6WUDVsenfest in Jasper. “You would know the stuffed buffalo was coming because schoolchildren would run down the street yelling, ‘Trace! Trace!’� Hayes says. Sadly, the tradition ended one rainy year for fear of the drizzle ruining Trace’s coat. Just seven miles of town on gravelly County Road 600, you’ll notice a granite monument in Sherritt Cemetery, where the original McDonald cabin stood. William McDonald is buried here, along with many of the county’s original families. “Local people take care of the graveyard,� Hayes says. “People here really care about heritage. We stay in touch with the roots here.� Dubois County’s German heritage still runs deep today. The Schnitzelbank Restaurant, located at 393 3rd Ave. in Jasper, is a popular stop for visitors and locals alike. It has a variety of German favorites, from bratwurst and knackwurst to the iconic Hoosier staple the breaded tenderloin, which food historians believe originated here. 1H[W VWRS $ ZDWHULQJ KROH IRU KHUGV of bison and crowds of a very different nature.

17 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

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French Lick and West Baden: Seeking salt Patty Drabing, director of the French Lick West Baden Museum, believes the springs near the towns were a common drinking and resting place for bison on their journey to the Ohio. The bison would lick minerals left behind by the evaporating spring water, which bubbled up through the limestone in the valley. Years later, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt would bathe in those famed waters, which were rumored to cure diseases from rheumatism to alcoholism. When Wilson surveyed Southern Indiana in 1935, he described the plant life along the marshy patches of grass and ZLOGËŒRZHUV WKDW ZRXOG VRPHGD\ EHFRPH Patoka Lake. Here, wildlife thrived. Bison were plentiful during the migrations. At least until the settlers arrived. Decades later, wealthy people found a place to drink, gamble and rest in French Lick and West Baden. The West Baden

Springs Hotel drew visitors from around WKH ZRUOG WR VHH WKH KRWHOȢV PDJQLË‹FHQW dome, the largest in the world at the time of its construction in 1902, and bathe or drink water from the hotel’s mineral springs. The resort, along with the French Lick Springs Hotel, both became hotbeds for illegal gambling up until the ‘40s, when a raid on illegal gambling shut down casinos on the weekend of the 1949 Kentucky Derby. Gamblers returned from the Derby by train high and dry. Today, you can still stay at either the West Baden Springs Hotel or the French Lick Springs Hotel, both of which are restored to their early-1900s grandeur. The KLVWRULF KRWHOV RIIHU OX[XU\ URRPV Ë‹QH and casual dining, sprawling gardens, golf courses and spas. The new French Lick Casino, featuring a 51,000-square-foot gaming facility, ZDV RIË‹FLDOO\ RSHQHG LQ DV D SDUW

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of the multimillion dollar renovation of both resorts. The natural area surrounding the resorts also offers plenty of adventure. Nearby Patoka Lake is a popular spot for paddleboarding and swimming. Trails through the rolling hills beckon novice hikers and weathered wanderers. The Buffalo Trace Trail branches off from the French Lick Hotel into dense forHVW DOORZLQJ YLVLWRUV WR H[SHULHQFH WKH remnants of the bison-made path by foot and on horseback, says Kristal Painter, a member of the Indiana’s Historic 3DWKZD\V ERDUG RI GLUHFWRUV DQG ˋQDQFH manager at the local visitors center. Before heading out of town to the ˋQDO VWRS DORQJ WKH WUDFH FDWFK D ULGH RQ the French Lick Scenic Railway, which takes passengers on a 25-mile ride through the rolling hills of the Hoosier National Forest.

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Falls of the Ohio: The end of a journey For centuries, migrating bison would cross the Falls of the Ohio near present-day Clarksville and venture into Kentucky for the winter season, then cross back when the weather warmed in the spring. The Big Bone and Blue licks, which are full of minerals like iodine that bison need for bone and muscle growth, attracted the herds. Dense acres of sugarcane and woodlands also provided bison with necessary food and shelter to survive the winters. As in Vincennes, the water is shallower here. The ridges and watersheds near the Falls of the Ohio make it a good place for the bison to cross, Hayes says. Alan Goldstein, an interpretive naturalist at the Falls of the Ohio State Park,

says the lack of trees helped, too. “Herds of bison by the hundreds could cross easily here because it well established by bison that came before them, and the land wasn’t of high elevation, either.â€? Ironically, just as the bison were disappearing, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark began their westward H[SHGLWLRQ FRPPLVVLRQHG E\ 3UHVLGHQW Thomas Jefferson. In 1803, the two H[SORUHUV OHIW &ODUNȢV FDELQ QHDU WKH )DOOV of the Ohio in present-day Clarksville on their way to St. Louis. Today, the 200 acres of 390-millionyear-old fossil beds at the Falls of the Ohio State Park are among the largest, QDWXUDOO\ H[SRVHG 'HYRQLDQ IRVVLO EHGV in the world. The gates of the dam are partially

closed during the summer months, which causes the water level fall, so you FDQ H[SHFW WKH IRVVLO ˌDWV WR EH H[SRVHG at the last stop on the Buffalo Trace. Temperatures can get quite hot out on WKH ˌDWV *ROGVWHLQ VD\V VR UHPHPEHU WR bring sunscreen and plenty of drinking water. Be sure to also stop in the nearby Interpretive Center, which features a full-size mammoth skeleton and a replica of Clark’s cabin. Just a mile and a half up the road, Portage House, a charming restaurant serving locally sourced New American fare, overlooks the Ohio River. After all, a dinner with a view is the perfect way to mark the end of an adventure along the Buffalo Trace.

A new beginning Indiana’s early history was forged by and around the bison. They swept over our hills and valleys, carving trails like rivers through the wooded wilderness. Now, Southern Indiana’s bison are gone, but the woolly beasts have made it back to the northern part of

the state. In 2016, the Nature Conservancy reintroduced a herd of 23 to the Kankakee Sands Nature Preserve, just west of Rensselaer, where they are helping restore the prairies, eating saplings, wallowing to make mud pits for amphibians and cutting open the GLUW IRU ZLOGËŒRZHUV WR JURZ ZKHUH WKHLU

hooves have trod. Tony Capizzo, land steward at Kankakee Sands, says the herd welcomed 11 calves last year. “We are H[SHFWLQJ DERXW WR PRUH FDOYHV this spring, too,â€? Capizzo says. Bison, LW VHHPV DUHQȢW Ë‹QLVKHG OHDYLQJ WKHLU mark on Hoosier history after all.

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SUMMER/ FALL 2018

PICKLED! An unlikely sport is courting the 812. By Kaleigh Howland and Maia Rabenold Ka-TINK, ka-TINK, ka-TINK. Soft pops spill into the otherwise silent hallway. Then a sharp crack echoes off the concrete walls. Pushing open the heavy gym doors, we discover the source of the sounds — 10 players deep in games of pickleball before the sun comes up on a Saturday. <HOORZ ZLIˌH EDOOV FROOLGH ZLWK QHRQ SDGGOHV DQG bounce off the polished basketball court, punctuated with whoops of success and grunts of disappointment. We catch a glimpse of black sky through the single window in the Brown County YMCA gym. Outside, a lone bird sings in the parking lot to signal the dawn. But for these devoted players, the day has already begun.

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Still a little bleary, we climb the stairs to watch the three courts from an overlook. Players make hurried introductions with each other as they rotate among the courts, but even brand new partners tap paddles after each point. One player, taller than anyone else on the court, hits a ball too close to his partner, and the shot whizzes past her glasses, but she laughs even before she ˋQLVKHV MXPSLQJ RXW RI WKH ZD\ Just as we steel ourselves to head down to the court, a middle-aged woman with short brown hair and a blue tank top calls up to us. “Hey, do you want to play?� Two other women who had been sitting out offer to teach us newbies the basics of the game, handing over their own paddles and picking up battered wooden backups for themselves. We voice some doubts about our pickleballplaying attire. The younger of the pair, Georgi Burker, reassures us: “You’ve got sneakers and stretchy pants. That’s all you need.�

22 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Pickleball is a hybrid game that draws aspects from badminton, tennis and pingpong. It’s one of the fastest growing sports in America with over 2.8 million players worldwide, according to the USA Pickleball Association website. While about half of players are

50 or older, more and more people of all ages are discovering pickleball as a fun way to get active and get involved in a community. With more than 50 USAPA FRQˋUPHG SODFHV WR SOD\ SLFNOHEDOO LQ Indiana alone, you can probably pick up a paddle in your hometown. Before we continue our story, we should be honest with you — we’re not sporty. In fact, Kaleigh has never played an organized sport in her life, and Maia hasn’t played a sport in years. That’s probably why we showed up to the Brown County YMCA that morning

wearing jeggings, fashion sneakers and and full makeup. Our new instructors, Chris Stoll and Georgi, walk us over to the empty court before we have a chance to say no. Chris and Georgi are more than just pickleball partners, they’re also cousins. Chris picked up pickleball three years ago and brought Georgi to her ˋUVW VHVVLRQ DW WKH <0&$ ODVW \HDU (DUly-morning games have since become part of both their daily routines. Georgi drives from her home in Spearsville to the 5:30 a.m. YMCA pickleball session

The rules of the game Basics: 3OD\ WKH JDPH DV GRXEOHV RU VLQJOHV Serve: +LW WKH EDOO XQGHUKDQG WR WKH SHUVRQ GLDJRQDO WR \RX RQ WKH FRXUW <RX PXVW NHHS DW OHDVW RQH IRRW EHKLQG WKH EDVHOLQH GXULQJ WKH VHUYH Return: /HW WKH EDOO ERXQFH EHIRUH \RX UHWXUQ WKH VHUYH DQG OHW WKDW UHWXUQ ERXQFH DV ZHOO EHIRUH KLWWLQJ LW $IWHU WKDW \RX FDQ KLW WKH EDOO LQ WKH DLU Sequence: 7KH Ć“UVW SOD\HU VHUYHV XQWLO KH RU VKH ORVHV WKH SRLQW 7KHQ WKH VHUYH JRHV WR WKH RSSRVLQJ VLGH $IWHU WKDW \RX VHUYH XQWLO \RX IDXOW DQG WKHQ \RXU SDUWQHU VHUYHV XQWLO KH RU VKH IDXOWV 7KHQ WKH VHUYH VZLWFKHV WR WKH RWKHU VLGH Score: %HIRUH HDFK VHUYH FDOO RXW \RXU VFRUH WKHQ \RXU RSSR QHQWVĹ? VFRUH WKHQ \RXU VHUYLQJ RUGHU RQH RU WZR LQ WKDW URXQG <RX FDQ RQO\ VFRUH LI \RXU WHDP LV VHUYLQJ

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almost every weekday, then continues on to work in Columbus afterward. “After a couple hours of this, you’re ready to go. The endorphins are going,â€? she says. That energy spills over into the workplace, she adds. “It just makes everybody happy.â€? Since our 7 a.m. visit is positively late compared to Chris and Georgi’s usual schedule, they throw quick instructions at us as we walk onto the court. Underhand serves only. Let the ball bounce on the return. Don’t step into the “kitchen.â€? We nod, faking understanding, but we hope that just starting to play will help it all make sense. 0DLDȢV XS Ë‹UVW DQG LWȢV D VZLQJ DQG a miss, quickly followed by encouragement from Chris and Georgi to try DJDLQ 7KLV WLPH WKH EDOO ËŒRDWV WRZDUG the correct half of the court, catty-corner from Maia, but doesn’t make it far enough and lands in the other kitchen. 7KH NLWFKHQ LV DQ DUHD GHË‹QHG E\ lines 7 feet on either side of the net. It’s the no man’s land of the game. You can’t step inside the kitchen unless the

EDOO KLWV WKH JURXQG WKHUH ˋUVW 7KLV means you can’t crowd the net, and neither can your opponent. The most advanced players push the game right to the edge of the kitchen, because they know that the hardest balls to return are those that just barely coast over the net. But that comes later, with more practice. Right now, Kaleigh’s biggest FKDOOHQJH LV ˋOOLQJ WKH DSSDUHQWO\ LQYLVible hole in the middle of her paddle. As she continues to miss every shot, Georgi reassures her, saying it took her months to be consistently accurate with her paddle. In our second game, Kaleigh and Georgi are pickled, meaning they lost without scoring a single point. You might be wondering where the “pickle� part of the game’s name originated. According to the USAPA, it’s not about those briny, sour slices that come with your burger, it’s about a dog. In the summer of 1965, three dads in Bainbridge, Washington, were struggling to entertain their kids. Their only materials at hand were pingpong paddles, a EDGPLQWRQ QHW DQG D ZLIˌH EDOO 'UDZ-

ing on the rules of badminton, the three created a game that was not only fun for the whole family, but easy to pick up. Even the family cocker spaniel Pickles wanted to play, always running off with the ball. So pickleball seemed an apt name for their new game. In 1972, an association was formed to regulate the adolescent sport, which VDZ LWV ˋUVW FRPSHWLWLRQ LQ :DVKLQJton in 1976. Drew Wathey, the director of media relations for the USAPA, describes the meteoric rise of pickleball across the country. More than 2.8 million pickleballers now play in the United 6WDWHV DORQH DQG 'UHZ VD\V KH H[SHFWV to see that number keep growing because it’s a social sport you can play for your whole life. Though the demographic is older right now, as pickleball becomes part of gym classes across the QDWLRQ KH H[SHFWV PRUH \RXQJ SHRSOH to catch on.

23

In fact, if it hadn’t been for gym class, Sharon Guingrich might not have

SUMMER/ FALL 2018

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24 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

tried her hand at the game at all. Sharon LV QRZ D FHUWLË‹HG SLFNOHEDOO LQVWUXFWRU proudly displaying her silver pickleball paddle necklace at all times. When her son was in junior high and studying for a test over pickleball rules, the game confused her. “I asked him, ‘Did your coaches make that game up to keep you guys occupied?’â€? Sharon says. “And he said, ‘No, Mom, it’s a real game.’â€? She might have laughed it off then, but now Sharon plays wherever she can, LQ &DUPHO ,QGLDQDSROLV 3ODLQË‹HOG RU at home in Bloomington, where we met her at a multipurpose recreational space called the Warehouse. The Warehouse has become the XQRIË‹FLDO KXE IRU WKH EHVW SOD\HUV LQ the Monroe County area. Once you get through the seemingly endless swarms of kids jumping on trampolines, whizzing through the skate park or playLQJ Ë‹HOG KRFNH\ \RXȢOO Ë‹QG D FUHZ RI dedicated pickleball players tucked in the back. They push the game out of its humble backyard beginnings and into competitions or just friendly doubles matches on a Monday evening. Sharon knows everything about everyone’s game. As she tells us about KHU UHFHQW FHUWLË‹FDWLRQ DV D SLFNOHEDOO instructor, she gets distracted by what’s

happening in the game in front of us. She winces as one player keeps hitting the ball right to an opponent instead of hitting where the court is open. She FOHQFKHV KHU ˋVWV ZKHQ WKH EDOO MXVW barely coasts over the net. “Looking at the court right now, if you put Dann and Nick on the same team, they would just clean the clock of the other two,� she says. “Did I mention everything she says is false?� Dann Denny jokes, running up to us as he hears his name. 6KDURQ H[SODLQV WR XV WKDW SLFNOHEDOO players’ skill levels are ranked based on USAPA guidelines, and the Warehouse players all weigh in at about 4.0 on the 5-point scale. Players self-assess the moves they have mastered, the accuracy of their shots and the consistency of WKHLU JDPH WR ˋQG WKHLU UDQNLQJ According to the USAPA ranking guidelines, while a 3.0 player is just beginning to use trick shots and doesn’t quite know when to use them, a 4.0 player can strategically use different shots to change the pace of the game. Nick Scarpino, a 4.0, is the youngest of the bunch at 27, and he’s by far the fastest, Sharon tells us. Nick started playing only about a year ago, but attributes his rapid success

to years of playing tennis as well as his age. Gary Knutson, who organizes the Warehouse group and plays there himVHOI VD\V ˋQHVVH LV PRUH LPSRUWDQW WKDQ youth and brute strength, although the younger you are, the faster you can be. Playing pickleball borders the limit of human reaction time, Gary says, and most of the time you really don’t even know how you’re hitting the ball. “It doesn’t get to your forebrain to say, OK, this is what’s happening,� he says. “It’s MXVW OLNH SXWWLQJ \RXU ˋQJHU RQ D KRW stove.� You might not feel as if your inVWLQFWV DUH RQ \RXU VLGH DW ˋUVW HYHQ LI you’ve played years of tennis. You might swing as if the paddle is longer than it actually is or think the ball should spring higher. Or, if you’re like us, you might feel your instincts are always lagging a few seconds behind. But it all comes together with more practice. The welcoming atmosphere of every court we stepped onto made us feel comfortable enough to laugh at our mistakes, and our mentors encouraged us to come back anytime. We might stick to writing for now, but if we ever hear that familiar ka-TINK ka-TINK rhythm, we’ll dust off our paddles and put on our stretchy pants.

PICKLEBALL PROFILE DANN DENNY, 66, RETIRED JOURNALIST RATING: 3.5 Journey to pickleball: 'DQQ KHDUG WKH LQIDPRXV ŏSOLQN\ SOLQN\ Ő ZKLOH KH ZDV SOD\LQJ WHQQLV DW 7KH 9LOODJHV D UHWLUHH UHVRUW LQ )ORULGD ZLWK DQ HPSKDVLV RQ NHHSLQJ UHVLGHQWV DFWLYH $IWHU ZLQQLQJ WKH %ORRPLQJWRQ FLW\ WHQQLV WRXUQDPHQW HLJKW WLPHV KH HDVLO\ PDGH WKH WUDQVLWLRQ WR SLFNOHEDOO Special moves: $ KDUG IRUHKDQG DQG D ORE ZKHUH KH DLPV WR KLW WKH EDOO DV KLJK RYHU KLV RSSRQHQWōV KHDG DV LI WKHUH ZHUH DQRWKHU SHUVRQ VWDQGLQJ RQ KLV RU KHU VKRXOGHUV Favorite thing about playing: ŏ$W P\ DJH LWōV MXVW WKH IXQ :H PDNH IULHQGV ZH JR RXW WR GLQQHU Ő Our take: 8QOLNH PRVW DGYDQFHG SOD\HUV 'DQQ QHYHU GULOOV RU SUDFWLFHV KLV PRYHV SUHIHUULQJ WR VSHQG DOO KLV WLPH SOD\LQJ WKH JDPH +H GRHVQōW SOD\ LQ WRXUQDPHQWV EHFDXVH KH SUHIHUV WR VSHQG ZHHNHQGV VTXDUH GDQFLQJ ZLWK KLV ZLIH EXW RQFH VKH UHWLUHV KH PLJKW EHFRPH PRUH FRPSHWLWLYH

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PICKLEBALL PROFILE SHARON GUINGRICH, 47, B&B OWNER RATING: 4.0, BUT SOME DAYS SHE PLAYS LIKE A 4.5 Journey to pickleball: 6KDURQ ZDV LQVSLUHG WR VWDUW SOD\LQJ ZKHQ VKH KHDUG DERXW FODVVHV DW WKH %URZQ &RXQW\ <0&$ 1RZ VKH LV DQ ,QWHUQDWLRQDO 3LFNOH EDOO 7HDFKLQJ 3URIHVVLRQDO $VVRFLDWLRQ FHUWLƓHG LQVWUXFWRU DQG SOD\V LQ WRXUQD PHQWV DURXQG WKH DUHD 6KH PHGDOHG LQ WZR VDQFWLRQHG WRXUQDPHQWV WKLV \HDU Special move: +HU EDFNKDQG VOLFH VKRRWV WKH EDOO DW DQ DQJOH WKDWōV FKDOOHQJ LQJ WR UHWXUQ EHFDXVH WKH EDFNVSLQ PDNHV WKH EDOO ODQG GHDG RQ WKH JURXQG Favorite thing about playing: ŏ,ōP QRW D IDQWDVWLF SOD\HU EXW , UHDOO\ ORYH WKH VWUDWHJ\ Ő Our take: 6KH FDQ VHH WKH JDPH LQ KHU KHDG DV WKRXJK IURP D ELUGōV H\H YLHZ 6KH KDV QR WURXEOH DSSO\LQJ WKLV WR DFWXDO JDPH SOD\ ERWK WR KHUV DQG KHU FRPSHWLWRUVō

25 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

BLOOMINGTON TURNS

200

The visionary people, pivotal moments and steadfast spirit that shaped our history.

By Sophie Bird, Christine Fernando, Mariah Lee and Shelby Stivale

E

ach Memorial Day when Allen Dunn was young, his family would load fresh-cut peonies into their Buick and head to Rose Hill Cemetery. It was time to be with the Sewards. Now 64, he remembers placing WKH ËŒRZHUV EHVLGH WKH KHDGVWRQHV KLV IDPLO\ȢV OHJDF\ D blanket of pride around his shoulders. Allen is a descendent of Austin Seward, who settled in Bloomington just three years after its founding and IRUJHG WKH Ë‹VK ZHDWKHUYDQH DWRS WKH FRXUWKRXVH In celebration of Bloomington’s bicentennial, four 812 reporters learned about Seward and the city’s rich history from people who know it best. With help from Indiana University history professor James Madison, librarian Christine Friesel, local historians Hillary Fleck

DQG 6XVDQ '\DU DQG PDQ\ RWKHUV ZH LGHQWLˋHG SLYRWDO PRPHQWV LPSRUWDQW ˋUVWV DQG OHJHQGDU\ ORFDOV :H PHW a black World War II pilot who earned his wings, a local entrepreneur who turned a spare-bedroom business into a billion-dollar company, and a spirited politician who broke barriers for women and brought people together. And we followed the Seward family, who, like so many other Bloomington families, have taken work and community service to heart. The resulting stories paint a picture of a community intent on bettering itself and the world. Join us on a 200-year journey through Bloomington’s tribulations and triumphs as the city celebrates the start of its third century. -SB

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1818 - 1899

When Bloomington was founded in 1818, the region was the frontier of an expanding nation. Artisans, missionaries and young families trickled in from the east, and the city grew. Two hundred years later, their values are still stitched into the fabric of Bloomington life.

YEARS OF ESTABLISHMENT PIVOTAL MOMENT

The 19th Century Club is founded Comprising well-to-do women reformers, the 19th Century Club was created in October 1896 as a book and educational group for women. Members met every two weeks and took turns presenting lessons and discussing topics such as the Civil War and American literature. Christine Friesel at the Monroe County Public Library says they started by reading mostly prayer books and biographies of men but wanted to do more and had the leisure time and resources to do so. “These women became tired of just reading and being cultured,� she says. The club joined with the Local Council of Women, a group that advocated for community health, and helped open Bloomington Hospital by securing a 10-room, brick house as the hospital. Eventually, the club donated much of its earnings and literature to open the Monroe County Library as well.

IN

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STYLE

28 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

“

These women became tired of just reading and being cultured. Christine Friesel

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LOCAL LEGEND

James Showers

Founder of Showers Brothers Furniture James Showers was the son of a Methodist circuit-rider who opened a cabinet-making shop in Bloomington in the late 1850s. When James was 28, he and his younger brother William paid $300 for their father’s business, which would become the growing city’s largest employer. They, along with younger brothHU +XOO H[SDQGHG 6KRZHUV %URWKHUV Furniture operations and invented &RXUWHV\ RI 1DQF\ 7HWHU 6PLWK the process known as laminating. By 1910, the factory on Morton Street was one of the leading furniture-makers in the country. James left the company in 1904 but continued to serve the community on the city council and the school board. He and his brothers helped bring electricity, running water and paved roads to the city. In her history of the company, author Carrol Krause wrote, “The entire infrastructure of the modern city was either set in SODFH RU PRGLË‹HG DQG LPSURYHG E\ WKH 6KRZHUV IDPLO\ ČĽ James died April 5, 1939, in Bloomington. -ML

THEN & NOW

FIRST FAMILY AUSTIN SEWARD 1799-1872 Beginning in 1818, three things happened to forever alter Bloomington’s history. First, the township was established. Two years later, Pres. James Madison designated Bloomington as the site for the state seminary, a religious institution at what is now Seminary Square. Then, Austin Seward came to town. A native of Virginia, he came to Indiana with his wife, Jane, and their two children. He’d been to the area once before, to visit some of Jane’s relatives, and IRXQG WKH ËŒHGJOLQJ WRZQ ODFNHG VRPHthing he could provide: blacksmithing. Crippled by a horse-riding accident, Austin was unable to farm. But with his legendary blacksmithing skills, there was little he couldn’t make. Austin built two log buildings on the corner of presentday Seventh and Walnut streets. He lived LQ WKH Ë‹UVW ZLWK KLV IDPLO\ 7KH VHFRQG was a shop he named Seward & Co. He crafted farming tools like scythes, augers DQG NQLYHV EXW VSHFLDOL]HG LQ D[HV DQG ULËŒHV Ȥ+H ZDV DQ HGJHPDNHU ČĽ GHVFHQGDQW Allen Dunn says. “He could take steel and DWWDFK LW WR LURQ DQG PDNH DQ D[H Č DQG D VXFFHVVIXO D[H 3HRSOH FDPH IRU PLOHV WR buy from him.â€? Andrew Wylie, president of the seminary, reportedly said, “This community can better spare any man in it, the college, every professor, than it can spare Mr. Seward.â€? ,Q $XVWLQ H[SDQGHG LQWR D ODUJHU shop across the street. He added a second story. Then a foundry. Then steam power. As Austin’s blacksmith shop grew, so did his family. He and Jane would have 11 children, eight of whom would live to adulthood. When the Civil War began in 1861, Seward & Co. was still making guns — this time for battle. The Union Army commissioned cannons, bombshells and ammunition from the company. Weapons, however, were not Austin Seward’s most enduring creation. Long before the outbreak of war, Austin was asked to create what would become his most famous work – the carp-shaped weathervane that still sits atop the Monroe County Courthouse nearly 180 years later. -SB

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BLOOMINGTON FIRST ,Q 3UHVWRQ (DJOHVRQ EHFDPH WKH Ć“UVW EODFN DWKOHWH WR SOD\ RQ DQ ,8 VSRUWV WHDP 7KH IRRWEDOO KDOIEDFN ODWHU EHFDPH WKH Ć“UVW $IULFDQ $PHULFDQ WR HDUQ DQ DGYDQFHG ,8 GHJUHH

29 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

1900 - 1929

Despite the devastating impact of the Spanish Flu and World War I, Bloomington continued to draw people and companies. The Showers Brothers Furniture Company, Seward & Co. and the limestone industry fueled the growing local economy.

EMERGENCE OF A CITY PIVOTAL MOMENT

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This woman’s beige linen duster dates between 1900 and 1910. The loose, straight overcoat protected clothing while women rode in early open automobiles. Underneath the overcoats, the frills of the past were replaced with cleaner, simpler lines. One popular style was the hobble skirt, which had a straight-cut silhouette and was narrow at the hem. -CF

STYLE

SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Soldiers march on campus on Armistice Day in 1918. /Photo courtesy of IU Archives, P0027532

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LOCAL LEGEND

Elizabeth Bridgwaters Community leader

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THEN & NOW

FIRST FAMILY FRED ALLEN SEWARD 1886-1967 By the age of 23, the great-grandson of Austin Seward had been a track star at Bloomington High School and IU and worked as a copper miner in Arizona. Even the knee injury he’d sustained pole vaulting wasn’t holding him back. That same year, the loss of his father brought him back to Bloomington, where he took over Seward & Co. Although running the company hadn’t been in Fred’s immediate plans, it thrived under his stewardship. One day, when a girl caught Fred’s eye during choir practice at Kirkwood Avenue Christian Church, he thought he’d been called back to Bloomington for another reason. Dorothy Hopper was popular in her own right and had been president of her high school class. The couple married in a daisy-laden ceremony in June 1914 and went camping at Cataract Falls in Owen County for their honeymoon. -XVW ˋYH \HDUV LQWR WKHLU PDUULDJH the Spanish Flu swept through Indiana, NLOOLQJ PRUH WKDQ SHRSOH WKH ˋUVW year. Fred fell ill in March 1919. Family members stepped in to run the company while he recovered, and an article in The Bloomington Daily Telephone announced gratefully that he was “now able to move about his room.� Fred wasted no time in getting back to his work and family, which now included daughters Doris and Janet. Dorothy was president of the Margaret McCalla School PTA, and Fred, perhaps reliving his glory days, was a judge at Doris’ track meets. Fred was also outspoken about his political views — particularly his disdain IRU WKH .OX .OX[ .ODQ +H VRPHWLPHV attended the Klan’s rallies in downtown Bloomington, making sure community members saw him standing in disapproval on the side of the street. “One way you take a stand is you demonstrate who you’re with,� Allen says. “He wanted people to know he wasn’t in a sheet.� When he died on Christmas Day in 1967, Fred had watched over Seward & Co. for more than 50 years. Dorothy passed away seven years later. Both are buried in Rose Hill Cemetery. -SB

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31 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

It happened

HERE

1 2

Bloomington is bursting with surprises. The city has managed to blend a progressive urban attitude with Southern Indiana’s comfortable charm. True to form, here are four of Bloomington’s historical gems that will leave you saying, “I can’t believe it happened here.�

'DQLHO 6WRXW EXLOW WKH Ë‹UVW ,QGLDQD OLPHVWRQH KRXVH on Maple Grove Road in 1828. The two-story house, now on the National Register of Historic Places, is still standing.

In 1858, Bloomingtonians were complaining about KLJK WD[HV DQG SRRU URDG FRQGLWLRQV 1RW PXFK has changed. Today, however, we aren’t voting to disband the city government, as Bloomington’s FLWL]HQV GLG WKDW -DQXDU\ )RU WKH QH[W \HDUV Bloomington had no mayor and was run by a board of trustees.

3 4

In 1940, IU obtained a cyclotron, a device that accelerates charged atomic and subatomic particles. The city became a research site for The Manhattan Project, responsible for creating nuclear weapons.

When the broadcasting station WTTV opened in Bloomington in 1949, it was only the second station in the state. And Bloomington was the smallest community in the nation to have one. Today, WTTV operates out of Indianapolis.

YOU’RE BASICALLY A BLOOMINGTONIAN IF: Over the last 200 years, Bloomington has established itself as a place of diversity and inclusivity. Whether you’re Bloomington born-and-bred, a recent transplant or just passing through, the city will welcome you. You can claim you’re a Bloomingtonian if . . . You’ve been to the Lotus Festival.

With more than 150 vendors, the Bloomington Community Farmers’ Market is a meeting place during the spring, summer and fall. Buskers play music, customers bring their furry friends and children play in the fountain outside City Hall. You’ve attended the lighting ceremony at the courthouse square

Each September, the Lotus World Music & Arts Festival draws some 12,000 people downtown Bloomington for four days of music, dance and revelry. The festival has hosted more than 500 musicians from more than 120 countries. You’ve gone to an IU men’s basketball game. The Hoosiers are 10th in NCAA Tournament victories, have an impressive 60 percent winning percentage in Big Ten games and were listed by a 2017 study as the third most valuable collegiate basketball team in the United States. Iconic.

Each year on the Friday after Thanksgiving, KXQGUHGV RI SHRSOH ˌRFN WR WKH FRXUWKRXVH VTXDUH to drink hot cocoa, sing carols and watch local performers. At the end of the evening, spectators see the famous Christmas lights illuminate the faces of their friends and family — and another holiday season begins. You’ve walked or biked the B-Line Trail.

You’ve swam in the quarries.

32

You’ve visited the farmers’ market.

Although Bloomington police are a little stricter about people trespassing in the quarries these days, generations of Bloomingtonians remember basking in the sun at Rooftop Quarry, feeling as if they’re straight out of a scene in “Breaking Away.�

The trail offers 5.1 miles for walking, running or ELNLQJ 6WUHHW DUW ˌRZHUV DQG IULHQGO\ IDFHV PDNH the B-Line a welcome respite from desk jobs or college classrooms. 1-2 You’re on your way! 3-4 You’re practically a native! 5-6 You’re a townie!

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES SUMMER/ FALL 2018

SECRET HAUNTS

VINTAGE EATERIES

LIMESTONE MEMORIES

VISIT

812magazine.com

1930 - 1945

THE YEARS OF WAR AND DEPRESSION

Unemployment jumped, and businesses struggled in the Depression, then the city was caught up in the Second World War. Still, Bloomington persevered through two of the greatest crises of the century.

PIVOTAL MOMENT

The Depression takes its toll Just before the stock market crash of 1929, Showers Brothers Furniture predicted 1930 would be their biggest year. As it turned out, it was their worst. When the Depression struck Bloomington, the local economy didn’t collapse, says Monroe County Public Library’s Christine Friesel. Bloomington had no bank failures or bread lines, but unemployment rates soared to 38 percent for African Americans and 11 percent for whites. The school board cut teachers’ pay by 23 percent — a move that hurt women most. The limestone industry also VXIIHUHG ORVVHV DQG VRPH FRPSDQLHV ˋUHG EODFN ZRUNHUV

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But Showers Brothers tried to keep all its employees in the hard times. “The limestone industry was not nice to African Americans, but the Showers brothers were,â€? Friesel says. The newly formed Civilian Conservation Corps recruited young men to work on public projects so they could send money home. The men created much of the infrastructure of Brown County and McCormick’s Creek state parks. Despite the economic downturn, one notable business came out of the Depression – the Chocolate Moose. Cletus May had to close his cafĂŠ, but he opened the Chocolate Moose on the same site. Today, the Moose still serves up LFH FUHDP RQ WKH ORZHU ËŒRRU RI DQ DSDUWPHQW EXLOGLQJ DW LWV former location. -SS

LOCAL LEGEND

STYLE

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Herman B Wells

President of Indiana University After graduating from IU in 1924 with a degree in business, Wells spent two years as an assistant bank cashier before earning a master’s degree in economics and joining the IU faculty. Ten years later, he became dean of the business school. His success led to his appointment as the 11th president of IU. Wells UHFUXLWHG UHQRZQHG IDFXOW\ OLNH VH[ UHsearcher Alfred Kinsey, biologist Tracy &RXUWHV\ RI ,8 $UFKLYHV Sonneborn and Nobel Prize-winning geneticist Hermann J. Muller. He once traveled 33,000 miles in one year to attract scholars and faculty from around the world. A jovial and rotund administrator, he was an advocate of academic freedom, says biographer James Capshew. When Kinsey’s controversial research sparked protests in the 1950s, Wells stood by the professor. Wells was an inclusive and engaging person who had no enemies, Capshew says. “When you talked to him, he looked you in the eye and paid attention to only you. He was genuine in a way that not many SXEOLF Ë‹JXUHV DUH ČĽ Wells also helped end segregation at the Indiana Memorial Union DQG ZDV LQVWUXPHQWDO LQ UHFUXLWLQJ ,8ȢV Ë‹UVW EODFN EDVNHWEDOO SOD\HU Bill Garrett, in 1948. :HOOV OHIW WKH SUHVLGHQWȢV RIË‹FH LQ EXW FRQWLQXHG WR VHUYH DV chancellor until his death. He never married and died in Bloomington in 2000. “With full knowledge of the trauma, travail, blood, sweat DQG WHDUV WKH RIË‹FH GHPDQGV ČĽ :HOOV ZURWH LQ KLV DXWRELRJUDSK\ Being Lucky, “I would eagerly undertake the chore again.â€? -ML

33 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

WORLD WAR II STORIES Almost 400,000 Hoosiers served during World War II, and 11,680 were killed in action. IU students, faculty and staff felt the reverberations of war as enrollment plummeted by 75 percent, from 3,580 in 1940 to 830 in 1944. Here are three stories of those who served. FIVE BULLETS AND A PURPLE HEART ,8 JUDGXDWH *HUU\ .LVWHUV RI %ORRPLQJWRQ WRRN Ë‹YH EXOOHWV ZKLOH Ë‹JKWLQJ LQ ::,, DQG EHFDPH WKH Ë‹UVW VROGLHU to receive both the Congressional Medal of Honor and the Distinguished Service Cross, according to Monroe County Public Library archives. During the Tunisian campaign, Kisters took down an FDOLEHU JXQ Ë‹ULQJ DW $OOLHG WURRSV +H HVFDSHG ZLWKRXW D scratch and joined the Sicilian campaign, where he destroyed two German machine gun nests with grenades. He killed three Nazi soldiers, captured four more and caused DQRWKHU WR ȤËŒHH LQ WHUURU ČĽ %XW WKLV WLPH .LVWHUV ZDV VKRW Ë‹YH WLPHV LQ ERWK OHJV DQG KLV ULJKW DUP Asked about his plans after the war, Kisters said he would take over the family fur business in Bloomington so his father could retire. “He deserves it,â€? he said.

SPREADING HIS WINGS The sky was the limit for IU alumnus Charles DeBow when KH EHFDPH RQH RI WKH Ë‹UVW Ë‹YH $IULFDQ $PHULFDQV WR HDUQ KLV U.S. Air Force wings as a Tuskegee pilot on March 6, 1942. 'H%RZ ËŒHZ FRPEDW PLVVLRQV FRPPDQGHG D Ë‹JKWHU squadron and glided into battle during the Italian and D-Day invasions, according to his 1986 obituary in The Indianapolis

6WDU +H GHVFULEHG WKH IHHOLQJ RI ËŒ\LQJ DW IHHW LQ WKH August 1942 issue of The American Magazine. “Out of this world,â€? he said. “Free.â€? People had told Debow that blacks become elevator operators, janitors, porters like his father, but never aviators. So 'H%RZ OHW KLV ËŒ\LQJ GR WKH WDONLQJ 'H%RZ ODWHU ZURWH WKDW KH ËŒHZ IRU 8QFOH 6DP IRU 'DG DQG 0RP DQG ȤIRU WKH Negroes in the United States.â€? “We’ve got a double duty,â€? he said, “to our country and to our race.â€?

DOWN TO A SCIENCE Former IU physics professor Lawrence M. Langer was about as close as you can get to the bomb that dropped on Hiroshima on Aug. 6, 1945. Langer began working on the Manhattan ProjHFW DW /RV $ODPRV 1DWLRQDO /DERUDWRU\ LQ 1HZ 0H[LFR LQ according to IU Archives. He supervised trial drops of dummy bombs at Saipan by the plane Enola Gay — the same plane that dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima. The night before the Enola Gay trial, Langer worried something would go wrong, so he stayed on the plane and guarded the 10-foot-long bomb, eventually falling asleep on top of it. After the war ended, Langer headed back to IU and worked in the physics department until 1979. Langer lived in Bloomington until his death in 2000. -CF

FIGHTING THE WAR FROM HOME While soldiers marched off to war, men and women who stayed in Bloomington were also busy with the war effort at the city’s Radio Corporation of America plant.

34 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

RCA workers began manufacturing the Variable Time Fuze — glass tubes the size of a pint of milk that would H[SORGH DW D VHW WLPH ,W ZDV WKH JODVV VKDUGV WKDW ZRXOG do the damage by shooting out at targets, says Monroe County librarian Christine Friesel. 7KH ˋUVW 97 )X]H ZDV ˋUHG DW D -DSDQHVH SODQH RQ Jan. 5, 1943. Friesel says people were shocked at the damage the tubes could do. Manufacturers described the VT Fuze as second only to the atomic bomb. Behind the $800 million manufacturing project were women, who would use their often smaller hands to assemble the devices.

IU students did their part as well. On Saturdays and Sundays in 1944, hundreds of students woke up before dawn, hopped on buses and traveled 25 miles southwest of Bloomington to Crane Naval Ammunition Depot to UHË‹OO DQG VRUW DPPXQLWLRQ As war vessels completed missions, they dumped used shells into cargo vessels that made their way to the depot, which was established in 1941 to inspect, store, Ë‹[ DQG VKLS DPPXQLWLRQ DQG PLVVLOHV Students readied the ammunition to be shipped back WR WKH EDWWOHË‹HOG

BLOOMINGTON FIRST ,Q \HDU ROG $UWKXU )HOO EHFDPH WKH Ć“UVW ER\ WR FHOHEUDWH KLV EDU PLW]YDK LQ %ORRPLQJWRQ

THEN & NOW

FIRST FAMILY DORIS MARIE SEWARD 1917-1999

Fred Seward’s daughter made her mark in the halls of academia. After earning her undergraduate degree at IU in 1938, she went on to receive both masters and doctoral degrees in education from Syracuse University. Doris’ career thrived at several colleges. At Purdue University, she served as a professor, assistant dean of women and acting dean. Later, at the University of Kentucky, she was a professor, dean of women and dean of student affairs. After her father died in 1967, Doris and her sister Janet were elected to the company’s board of directors. 6KH DOVR WUDYHOHG H[WHQVLYHO\ YLVLWLQJ Egypt, China, Siberia and Ethiopia, says her nephew Allen Dunn. During her nephews’ high school years, Doris made VXUH HDFK VWXGLHG DEURDG $OOHQ VSHQW VL[ weeks in Switzerland. 'RULV VHUYHG DV H[HFXWLYH DVVLVWDQW WR the president of Pennsylvania State University, then retired to Bloomington and devoted herself to volunteer work. She was particularly concerned with education for women and once said an educated woman will understand her privileges and responsibilities. “She will be more than a wage earner, a housewife, a mother; she will be a person . . . who has endeavored to develop the potential within her for the welfare of others.� Allen, while impressed with all his aunt accomplished, notes ruefully that opportunities for women, even in academia, were limited. “She was always the assistant,� he says, “never the president.� While retired, Doris helped establish the Bloomington Community Foundation and donated 20 acres to create the Fred Seward Nature Preserve in her father’s memory. As she grew older, Doris looked toward the 21st century. She was determined to see the year 2000 and had her tombstone engraved in 1997 with her birth year and the numbers “20--.� She died in October 1999. Today her tombstone in Dunn Cemetery reads, “Doris Marie Seward / 1917 - 20-- 1999/ She was an optimist.� “She was the last Sewardess,� Allen says. “She was proud of that.� - SB

Courthouse Square (1915 to 1930) &URZGV RI SHRSOH DQG FDUV OLQH GRZQWRZQ %ORRPLQJWRQĹ?V FRXUWKRXVH VTXDUH LQ D D SKRWR EHWZHHQ DQG -& 3HQQH\ LV GHFRUDWHG IRU D Ĺ?%DFN WR 6FKRRO 'D\VĹ? VDOH ZLWK Ĺ´DJV DQG 0LFNH\ DQG 0LQQLH 0RXVH FXW RXWV ,Q D QHZVSDSHU DG .URJHU DQQRXQFHG LWV QHZ LQVWDQW SRVWXP Ĺ‹ D SRZGHUHG JUDLQ GULQN RQFH XVHG DV D FRIIHH VXEVWLWXWH Ĺ?<RXU WDEOH GULQN ZLOO QHYHU ERWKHU QHUYHV RU VOHHS LI \RX TXLW FRIIHH DQG GULQN LQVWDQW SRVWXP Ĺ? WKH DG UHDG ,Q WKH ) : :RROZRUWK Ć“YH DQG GLPH Ć“UVW VROG PDQXIDF WXUHG &KULVWPDV WUHH RUQDPHQWV ZKLFK VN\URFNHWHG LQ SRSXODULW\

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35 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

1950 - 1974

In a time of social reform and political upheaval, Bloomington made efforts to better race relations, gender inequality and education policies even as the Vietnam War, the John F. Kennedy assassination and the Civil Rights Movement rocked the nation.

THE ERA OF CHANGE PIVOTAL MOMENT

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SUMMER/ FALL 2018

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LOCAL LEGEND Hippie chic became the trend in the 1970s with tie-dyed tops, maxi skirts, wrap dresses and bright colors. Disco styles emerged as people donned bell bottoms, platform shoes, high-cut boots and big hair. Tight pants with Ĺ´DUHG ERWWRPV were the norm in the early 70s but began to fade by the end. Halter tops and culottes, similar to those depicted here, were also popular. Clothing was often made from polyester, but cotton blends were HDV\ WR Ć“QG &)

William Cook

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THEN & NOW

FIRST FAMILY MARILYN SEWARD WARDEN 1923-2004 Over the years, the Sewards married into other prominent Bloomington families — the Regesters, the Dunns and the Taylors, to name a few. Some Sewards are buried in Dunn Cemetery, the little family graveyard tucked away behind Beck Chapel along the bank of the Jordan River. 7KH ˋUVW SHUVRQ WR EH EXULHG LQ 'XQQ Cemetery was, in fact, a Seward — an infant son of Austin Seward, who died in 1832. When the Dunn family sold a plot of land that included the cemetery to IU, they did so with the stipulation that their descendants could be buried there. If you wander through the cemetery today, peering at death dates going back D KXQGUHG \HDUV RU PRUH \RX PLJKW ˋQG the name Marilyn Seward Warden. Marilyn was born in 1923 to Edith Regester Seward and William Austin Seward, Fred Seward’s brother. Marilyn lived most of her life in Bloomington, contributing to the community that had nurtured her family’s legacy. In 1970, she began serving on the company’s board of directors, a role she held until the business closed in 1983. She devoted much of her time to volunteer work through the IU Foundation, Bloomington Meals-On-Wheels and WKH %ORRPLQJWRQ +RVSLWDO $X[LOLDU\ 6KH poured energy into the preservation of county history and worked as a docent at the Monroe County History Center on 6L[WK 6WUHHW 8SRQ KHU GHDWK LQ KHU family asked that money be donated to the history center in her memory. Wayne Warden Jr., Marilyn’s husband of 56 years, was also active in the community. He served in the military for 39 years and had visited every continent and seen all 50 states by the time he died in 2015 at 98. He was laid to rest at Marilyn’s side. “There was a lot of interest in family there, and a need to pass things on,� Allen Dunn recalls of Marilyn, who was his mother’s cousin. He sees parallels between Marilyn and his mother, Janet. Both women dedicated their lives to raising their families, caring for aging parents and preserving their family’s legacy. -SB

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37 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

1950 - TODAY Today, Bloomington continues to strive for diversity, creativity and innovation as it fosters a community of artists, leaders and academics.

THE MODERN DAY PIVOTAL MOMENT

BEAD enlivens downtown Launched in 2006, the Bloomington Entertainment and Arts District has transformed the city’s downtown, says Sean M. Starowitz, the group’s assistant director of the arts. BEAD comprises 10 different areas. The Show District focuses on live performances and includes venues from the Buskirk-Chumley Theater to the Bluebird nightclub. Kirkwood Avenue is the character district that connects the Square to the Sample Gates. But the most notable area may be the B-Line Trail, which stretches 5.1 miles from Adams Street to Country Club Road. It features historic markers and public art and passes the Farmers’ Market, the WonderLab museum and the Warehouse recreational gym. One day, the trail will lead to Switchyard Park, a signature urban park with water features,

LET’S CELEBRATE! Celebrating Bloomington doesn’t end with looking at the past. Try these bicentennial-related events. 200 Years of Bloomington Trees :KHQ -XQH :KHUH %U\DQ 3DUN :KDW 7KLV VXPPHU HYHQW ZLOO LQFOXGH OLYH PXVLF E\ IRON PXVLFLDQ 0DOFROP 'DOJOLVK DQG D VFUHHQLQJ RI WKH HQYLURQPHQWDO ŴLFN ŏ7KH /RUD[ Ő Taste of Bloomington :KHQ -XQH :KHUH &LW\ +DOO :KDW 7KLV DQQXDO HYHQW FRPELQHV OLYH PXVLF ZLWK PRUH WKDQ UHVWDXUDQWV VHUYLQJ VDPSOHV

38 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Bicentennial 5K :KHQ 1RY :KHUH &LW\ +DOO :KDW %ORRPLQJWRQLDQV FDQ ODFH XS WKHLU UXQQLQJ VKRHV WR FHOHEUDWH %ORRPLQJWRQ ZLWK D . UXQ RQ WKH % /LQH 7UDLO &) Visit 812magazine.com for more events.

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sports courts and a pavilion for performances. “Arts and culture are a big part of what Bloomington does,” Starowitz says, so we make sure that lens is brought to the table in a variety of different ways.” -SS

LOCAL LEGEND

Charlotte Zietlow Politician and activist

Often called the Grand Dame of Bloomington, Zietlow was the daughter of a Lutheran minister and learned the importance of helpLQJ RWKHUV E\ KLV H[DPSOH Ȥ, ZDV trained to be a public servant,” she says. She started her life in politics by campaigning for John F. Kennedy. When she won a seat on the Bloomington City Council in 1971, the 3KRWR E\ 0DULDK /HH local headline read, “Ph.D housewife elected to city council.” She was pro-choice and also organized a campaign to preserve the courthouse by going door-to-door asking for donations. In 1973, she and a friend opened Goods for Cooks on the Square, partly to prove that women could successfully run a business. The store is still open. 6KH DOVR VHUYHG DV D FRXQW\ FRPPLVVLRQHU DQG WKH H[HFXWLYH director of the local United Way. She later worked for Planned Parenthood and Middle Way House. She says her greatest accomplishment is learning how to get along and work with people you don’t agree with. “She’s a force of nature, and she’s an amazing woman,” says historian James Madison. “She still is pushing and not taking no for an answer in politics and in government.” -ML

THEN & NOW

FIRST FAMILY ALLEN DUNN 1954- present When Allen Dunn was born, his family lived on 10th Street, at the present site of the Kelley School of Business’ Hodge Hall. His mother was Janet Seward Dunn, daughter of Fred Seward. His father was George Dunn, whose family bottled Dr. Pepper. George had commanded a company of African American soldiers in WWII and received a Purple Heart. He died when Allen was 2, and Janet raised their four boys on her own. “I’m proud of her,� Allen says. “I’m proud of my father.� When Allen was in the 3rd grade, his mother sold their property to IU and moved to the corner of Atwater and Third Street. An iron fence made at Seward & Co. encircled their home and WKH KRXVH QH[W GRRU ZKHUH KLV JUDQGparents Fred and Dorothy Seward lived. In high school, Allen worked summers at Seward & Co., manning the front desk. “But I wanted to be a physician,� he says, “not manage an industrial supply company.� He earned his medical degree and served his residency at the IU School of Medicine. Allen married in 1983, and he and his wife, Susan, had a daughter, Erin. That same year, Seward & Co. declared bankruptcy. Seward & Co. had served the Bloomington community for 162 \HDUV DFURVV VL[ JHQHUDWLRQV RI 6HZDUGV “It was the longest-running continuously owned family business in the state,� Allen says. Allen came to Bloomington with Susan, Erin and a son, David, to pursue his career in anesthesiology. As he approaches retirement from the practice he now shares with David, he thinks about what he’d like to do with his time. “This bicentennial brings things back into focus,� he says. “It brought me out of my little tunnel vision.� He hopes to be more active in the community and impress upon his children and grandchildren how important it is to learn about your family legacy. “The town changes,� he says. “But it’s kind of cool to think that I’m in the background of a family that did something.� -SB

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39 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Down Corner on the

BY ANNA MAKRIS

Dedicated artists and preservationists are breathing new life into this venerable Evansville neighborhood.

I

ndiana weather in April is always a PL[HG EDJ EXW RQ WKH ˋUVW )ULGD\ RI the month, not even the elements can keep people away from Haynie’s Corner. Despite the chilling wind, the streets bustle with visitors and UHVLGHQWV DOLNH RQ WKLV ˋUVW )LUVW )ULGD\ festival of the year. Billy Hedel, a local artist wearing a black turtleneck, wanders down Adams Avenue. Nearly every person he passes stops him to say hello. That’s how it is at the Corner. “We’re all friends here,� says Helen Fisher, who has lived here for 25 years with her husband. After dinner at the Bokeh Lounge, she gushes about how much she loves the neighborhood. “It’s truly blossomed,� she says. The temperature continues to drop, but the show goes on. A lively band called Cinco De Blues plays behind the rushing limestone fountain built LQ $ WUXFN VHOOLQJ ˌRZHUV VLWV nearby. Food stands selling brisket, ZRRG ˋUHG SL]]D DQG KRW FRIIHH OLQH the sidewalks, and art is abundant. You can buy homemade goat milk soaps, locally made shirts and wooden crafts. 9LVLWRUV ˌRZ LQ DQG RXW RI WKH EULFN DQG mortar shops with goods purchased from local artists. The community is here to support their arts and businesses and to celebrate this historic neighborhood. This, as residents like to say, is where art lives. ,//8675$7,21 %< %,//< +('(/

41 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Stilt-walking puppets roam the First Friday festival in Haynie’s Corner. /Photos by Anna Makris

O 42 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

n any day of the week, the fountain at the center of Haynie’s Corner is the epicenter of community life. Food, drinks and art are just a short walk away in every direction. There’s the Dapper Pig, Sauced, Mo’s House and Walton’s International Comfort Food, to name a few places to grab a ELWH WR HDW )DUWKHU RXW \RXȢOO Ë‹QG 6L[WK Street Soapery, a consignment shop and two salons. Since Haynie’s Corner ofË‹FLDOO\ EHFDPH DQ DUWV GLVWULFW JDOOHULHV have opened. Stop by Stac Art Gallery to have a cup of coffee and check out their H[KLELWV Č \RX PD\ HYHQ FRPH DFURVV D laughing yoga session in the front room. The Ohio River rolls by a couple blocks south, and Kentucky is just a

Left: A fountain sits at the center of Haynie’s Corner. Top: Billy sits next to one of his latest pieces, a painting of the original Haynie’s drug store. Above: In the back room of Sixth Street Soapery, owner Mary Allen lines the walls with her soaps. /Photos by Anna Makris

stone’s skip away. If you rent a bike and cruise through the neighborhood, you’ll see lovely Victorian-style houses lining the streets. Until recently, many of these historic homes and buildings were boarded up or in disrepair. Now, thanks to the city and the neighborhood associations, they are once again the pride of the Corner. And, if you visit on WKH ˋUVW )ULGD\ RI WKH PRQWK \RX PD\ want to consider a dinner reservation. The Corner, one of Evansville’s oldest communities, is full of life.

In the late 1800s, Evansville’s strategic position on the Ohio River made it a

hub for commerce. Coal mining and lumber manufacturing brought money to the central city, and the wealthiest people began to build spacious new homes on its outskirts. Haynie’s Corner — at the intersection of Parret Street, Southeast Second Street and Adams Avenue — comprised four of those neighborhoods: Blackford’s Grove, Goosetown, Culver and Riverside. The Corner’s name comes from George Haynie, also known as the “Mayor of Goosetown,� who opened a drugstore at the corner of Parret and Second in 1886. In those days, the local drugstore tied a neighborhood together. It was the place to buy household remedies, to chat with neighbors and to sip a chocolate soda —

Isn’t diversity the “ wonder of humanity? � Billy Hedel

with two straws, of course. “It was the center of the universe at that time,� says Ken Haynie III, the great-great-grandson of the founder. Other shops and businesses sprang up in the neighborhood, and soon people OLQHG XS WR VHH &KDUOLH &KDSOLQ ˋOPV DW the majestic Alhambra Theater, built in 1913 in the style of the Alhambra Palace in Grenada, Spain. Alan Winslow lived on Blackford Avenue as a kid. Now 96, his strongest memories as a child in Haynie’s Corner are Sundays with his dad. They’d go to the Corner to get ice cream at a shop by the Alhambra. Jimmy cones, dipped in FKRFRODWH ZHUH WKH ˌDYRU RI FKRLFH KH says. “All my childhood memories are connected to that theater and the ice cream shop around the corner.� When the Depression set in, the Corner was not spared. Jobs were hard to come by, so people left their large KRPHV EHKLQG ,Q WKH ZRUVW ˌRRG in Evansville’s history swept water from the Ohio River into the streets, covering 500 city blocks. Soon after, though, the same river brought hope in the form of jobs at the outset of World War II. Newly opened shipyards hired thousands to build ships and the landing craft used on the beaches of Normandy. “The whole neighborhood changed drastically because people moved here to work on the shipyard,� Winslow remembers. Haynie’s Corner became a bedroom community. The grand Victorian houses were cut up into multiple apartments to house the workers. But when the war

ended, so did the work. Most people left, and those who stayed dealt with the ensuing poverty. “Economic depression continued to cause people to move out of the area through the 1970s,� says Johannah Rivers McDaniel, an Evansville native and author of a history of the neighborhood. During the years of decline, Haynie’s Corner became a hub for the commerce of drugs and prostitution. Winslow says he heard people say you’d get robbed if you went to the Corner, but he’s not sure it was ever true. “It was not as bad as walking down the street in New York,� he says. The bark was worse than the bite. The city outlined an economic development plan, but little changed. But there was one promising development: In 1977, a group of young couples who wanted a place to worship and build community created Patchwork Central. The group helped provide health care, opened a food pantry and organized after-

Funk in the City Funk in the City’s 16th annual fall festival showcases the work of over 100 artists and vendors. The community tradition raises awareness and supports local artists. When: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 22 Cost: Adults $5, kids free

VFKRRO SURJUDPV WKDW H[SRVHG FKLOGUHQ in the area to art, a harbinger of the changes yet to come.

In 2005, Billy and his partner Tom Loesch came to Haynie’s Corner after Hurricane Katrina devastated New Orleans. Their neighborhood of Faubourg Marigny avoided most of the damage, but the city wasn’t the same. “There was no way we could go back,â€? Billy says. In looking for a new home, the artist wanted something fun, funky and visionary. Tom’s family was from the Evansville area, and when they came across Haynie’s Corner, Billy wondered why the neighborhood wasn’t already thriving. He and Tom were drawn to the Corner’s diversity. “We believe that a good, strong neighborhood survives RQ PL[HG GHPRJUDSKLFV ČĽ %LOO\ VD\V So they bought a Queen Anne cottage built in 1890 by Louise Kramer. “Louise ZDV WKH GDXJKWHU RI &DUROLQH :ROËŒLQ ZKR ZDV UHSXWHG WR EH WKH Ë‹UVW EDE\ born in the settlement of Evansville circa 1812,â€? Tom says. They renovated the home, creating both living space and a gallery on the Ë‹UVW ËŒRRU 7KHQ WKH\ WRRN WKH H[SHULHQFH they’d gained serving on the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood association and put it to work at the Corner. The area then was in disrepair. “We had to mow our sidewalks,â€? Billy says. “There’s something to say about sidewalks.â€? They pushed to tear down or rebuild derelict buildings with the help of the local government. Tom became president of Blackford Grove’s neighborhood association. They were both involved in a grassroots effort to have Haynie’s Corner designated an arts district, a change that allows artists to work out of their homes. In 2011, about $400,000 in city and federal grants were used to repair the H[WHULRU RI WKH $OKDPEUD 7KH QH[W year, Haynie’s Corner

became a Neighborhood Revitalization Strategy Area, enabling the Dapper Pig restaurant, the historic Maybelle and Montrose apartments and other businesses to renovate. New galleries have also come along: 22 Jefferson Art Studios and Gallery opened in 2014 and Stac Art Gallery in 2017. 7RGD\ IRU WKH ˋUVW WLPH LQ \HDUV buildings are going up without subsidies, says Kelley Coures, executive director of the Department of Metropolitan Development. And, according to Ken Haynie, property values are rising. “Now, people want to make a home there,� he says. The First Friday festivals have allowed the neighborhood to showcase its rebirth to the rest of the city, says Samantha Buente, Haynie’s Corner Arts District vice president. “I hope people realize that the old reputation for being a dangerous or scary place is outdated.� Mary Allen, former Haynie’s Corner Arts District Association board president, has been involved since the idea was conceived in 2015. “At the time that First Fridays started, the Arts District lacked art galleries to support the growing base of art interest,� Allen says. Now there are four art galleries, along with music and food that connect and promote the community. Alan Winslow, who never misses a First Friday, may have the keenest point of view from his nine decades in town. “People from all over the city are coming there now,� he says.

Living in Haynie’s Corner is a big change from living in the larger cities Billy is used to. He grew up in Chicago, and his Windy City roots are still strong, especially when it comes to the Cubs. He has done three paintings of Wrigley Field and one hangs above the stairs. The city boy isn’t gone. But today, a painting of the original Haynie’s drug store is the centerpiece of the entryway. He’s proud of what he and Tom and others have helped accomplish so far, but he worries that everyone may not share in the success. Take the new parking lot, for example. It’s called a green parking lot and has black bricks laid out in a grid VR WKDW ZDWHU FDQ ˋOWHU EDFN LQWR WKH earth. It will reduce storm water going into the sewer system by 750,000 gallons. That and the additional parking are a good thing for the community and a big improvement from the jagged, grassy patch that previously occupied the space. But still, there’s something Billy doesn’t like. A row of 12 “reserved� signs marks spots for tenants of newly reno-

vated luxury apartments and symbolizes a bigger issue. While the revitalization of older buildings is something to celebrate, the cost can be high. Some artists have left because of these rising prices, he says. “I don’t know if any artist can afford $800 to $900 rent — or anyone in Evansville, for that matter.â€? He hopes the city remedies this. Embracing different people, rather than whatever project makes the most money, makes a community, he says. “Isn’t diversity the wonder of humanity?â€? Johannah McDaniel shares these concerns. She worries that many of the attractions target wealthier people who don’t live in the neighborhood. The median income here was only $29,000 LQ WKH FHQVXV D Ë‹JXUH WKDW GRHVQȢW allow for a lot of dinners out. The Dapper Pig even has a drink named after the isVXH *HQWULË‹FDWLRQ *LQJHU $OH However, Buente says the perception that the area is expensive is inaccurate. “You can get a great meal for under $10 in Haynie’s Corner and a fresh-brewed beer for less than $5,â€? she says. Plus, residents and visitors alike can enjoy the free entertainment, including live music at the fountain and art at First Fridays.

As Haynie’s Corner draws increasing attention, more projects are on the horizon. The Indiana Department of Transportation is developing a tree-lined boulevard at the Washington Street entryway and a roundabout where the streets come together at an angle. But the most exciting change is just across the street from the original Haynie’s Drug Store. Last year, a private buyer purchased the venerable Alhambra from the city. The new owner? Ken Haynie. Ideas for the theater include a restaurant or event space, but Haynie is open to anything sustainable. “So many people love the building and want to see it used,� he says. As for Billy, he has a slogan about his work: “If it wasn’t for art, we’d be in the dark.� He says he was born with the spirit in his soul. As a child, he colored RQ WKH ZDOOV DQG WKH ˌRRUV 7KLV LV ZK\ the arts district is so important to him. When it comes to his own future, Billy plans to focus on his art and his house. He has both hopes and worries about Haynie’s Corner, but they’re out of his hands now. “You don’t hold onto things,� he says. “You let things grow and let someone else use their vision and their ideas to push it along.� Time will tell what’s around the corner.

Roots Finding

Singer-songwriter Krista Detor found inspiration and international success in a place she never expected. By Jessica Smith

Family and friends are gathered around the GLQLQJ URRP WDEOH E\ FDQGOHOLJKW ˋQLVKLQJ off bowls of mushroom risotto — scraping the dishes with pieces of bread between sips of red wine. Krista is in the kitchen with her husband, 'DYLG DQG KLV EURWKHU 5REHUW SODWLQJ WKH QH[W course. Tonight is her daughter Aurora’s last dinner with them for a year. She’s graduated from Indiana University and is leaving for a year in China where she’ll teach English. Krista stops serving and moves behind Aurora’s chair, wrapping her arms around her

chest. She starts to sing with a rich and melodic timbre as the roomful of chatting guests and clattering dishes falls silent. “And I ‌ will always love you‌â€? Krista moves around the table from Aurora to her step-daughter Lena, placing her hands RQ KHU VKRXOGHUV 7KH GDXJKWHUV H[FKDQJH glances and chuckle at the familiar Whitney Houston chorus, but tears well up in their H\HV 1R RQH PDNHV D VRXQG XQWLO VKH Ë‹QLVKHV and even then, they let her voice linger in the silence a little while longer.

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46 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

7KH QH[W WLPH , VHH .ULVWD LWȢV PLG day, and we’re sitting at the same dinLQJ URRP WDEOH 6XQOLJKW Ë‹OWHUV WKURXJK the kitchen window, past her budding lemon tree, and rests on her face. She’s looking out at the 37-acre property she owns with her husband on the outskirts of Bloomington. She crosses her arms and pushes her horn-rimmed glasses up her nose. Her shoulder-length, curly hair is tucked behind her ears. “Success in the music industry is about so much more than, ‘Did you work hard, are you good at it, are you attractive enough?’â€? Krista says. “Everything is about timing.â€? Krista’s path to success is paved with turning points — moments where her life could have gone in another direction entirely. When she released her Ë‹UVW VROR FRPPHUFLDO DOEXP Ȥ0XGVKRZČĽ in 2006, she was about to turn 40. Within a month of its release, “Mudshowâ€? was No. 1 on the Euro-Americana charts and jump-started her success as a singer-songwriter and pianist. In the 12 years since, Krista has

UHOHDVHG ˋYH DGGLWLRQDO DOEXPV DQG WRXUHG H[WHQVLYHO\ DFURVV (XURSH DQG the United States. Her success didn’t go unnoticed. Rolling Stone magazine once referred to her as “a small miracle,� while a critic in The Boston Herald wrote, “All songwriters should be this good.� Now, over a decade after “Mudshow,� she and David are focusing on a new endeavor. The Hundredth Hill, their up-and-coming retreat, is a space for artists to be creative and inspired in the natural beauty of their property. The WUDQVLWLRQ LV MXVW RQH PRUH XQH[SHFWHG EXW ˋWWLQJ WXUQ LQ KHU OLIH

7KH QH[W DIWHUQRRQ .ULVWD RIIHUV XV a tour of the property, which begins at the driveway, a sort of primitive parking lot. We’re greeted by a cacophony of barking dogs, squawking chickens and Ghede, the family pig, who squeals his welcome. “My daughters pulled some Jedi mind trick on me with this one,� Krista

says, chuckling as she tosses oats at *KHGH 7KH IDPLO\ȢV ODUJH ËŒXII\ GRJV *U\IË‹Q D FKRZ PL[ DQG /XQD D ZKLWH lab, trail in and out of buildings behind us as Krista points out things they’ve collected over the years and structures David has built. When David bought the property PRUH WKDQ \HDUV DJR LW ZDV Ë‹YH acres with a small two-bedroom house. Today, their property comprises nearly 40 acres, and the house is two stories with four bedrooms and a recording studio. Only the beams tucked away in the walls come from the original home, built in 1920. Although David says he didn’t have a ORW RI H[SHULHQFH ZRUNLQJ RQ FRQVWUXFtion projects before he remodeled the family home, he did some research and got good advice along the way. “At this point, it’s just sort of second nature to drop into stuff,â€? he says. “The way WR Ë‹QLVK \RXU SURMHFW LV WR VWDUW LW DQG everything else follows.â€? $ SLFNHW IHQFH H[WHQGV IURP WKH main house and ends abruptly with the

words, “Wedding Wall� written in a faded — but still luminous — yellow paint. David built the fence for their wedding, more than 10 years ago. Barely legible good wishes from loved ones are scattered across the fence, written in ink that wasn’t designed to hold up to Indiana weather. Yet those wishes, like Krista herself, are still here. “I had no intentions of ever moving to the middle of nowhere,� Krista reminisces. “Never to small-town Indiana.�

Originally from Los Angeles, Krista had a coastal, big-city upbringing but was raised by Midwestern parents who grew up in Indiana and North Dakota. Krista was only 6 when she encountered a piano that past tenants had left in her family’s new home. She begged her parents to keep it, and they agreed. By high school, Krista could play by ear and accompany herself. After graduating from California State University with a degree in classical piano performance, Krista and her husband at the time, also a musician, started a life traveling IURP RQH RSSRUWXQLW\ WR WKH QH[W 0XVLF ZDV always in the background. Krista directed musical theater at an army base in South Korea and played in a classic ‘90s punk rock band in Louisiana. Then, she started a career in commercial real estate in Oregon. “I felt like I made the best grown-up and practical decision,â€? she says. She was in her mid-20s, her husband was in culinary school, and she had a baby daughter, Aurora. “It was good pay, good EHQHË‹WV DQG WKH SHRSOH ZHUH QLFH , SUREDEO\ would’ve done really well. But, at the end of the day, I was just hoping for a time when I could be doing something that was more IXOË‹OOLQJ ČĽ The doors opened for another opportunity — to start a restaurant in the Florida Keys — and Krista thought it might lead to that future. The restaurant gave her an opportunity to play for crowds, mostly covers like Jimmy Buffet’s “Margaritavilleâ€? or Van Morrison’s “Brown-Eyed Girl.â€? “I had a little girl and a completely different life plan,â€? Krista says. “I thought maybe just playing music in the restaurant with my KXVEDQG ZDV Ë‹QH ČĽ Krista was entering her 30s when divorce cut that life plan short. After running the restaurant alone for a while, she decided to come to Bloomington, where her mother had resettled during retirement. She endearingly refers to this phase as the time she “moved back into her parents’ basement.â€?

“I came to save some money, lick my ZRXQGV DQG ˋJXUH RXW KRZ , KDG JRWWHQ every single thing wrong about love and marriage.�

Krista intended to stay in Bloomington for one year. Aurora was starting kindergarten, and she wanted to give her daughter stability while she plotted WKHLU QH[W PRYH 6KH JRW D MRE DV WKH head of catering at IU, working nights and spending her days with Aurora. In the meantime, she met a group of people putting together a CD. She joined them, bringing in songs she had been writing on the side. “I thought if I can record all the songs, get them out of my head and out of my system, then I’ll move on,� she recalls. Krista’s colleagues took her to

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47 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

had no intentions of ever “ Imoving to the middle of nowhere. Never to smalltown Indiana. Krista Detor

48 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

Airtime Recording Studio to work with local producer David Weber. David had moved in 1989 to Bloomington, where he graduated with a recording degree from the Indiana University Jacobs School of Music. After graduation, he had a three-year stint working with a traveling circus as a trapeze artist. He returned to Bloomington, where he purchased a home with his then-wife, had two daughters, Lena and Isla, and opened his recording EXVLQHVV +H EXLOW $LUWLPH DV DQ H[WHQsion of his house, and Krista says she felt immediately at home. After the recording session, David approached Krista with a suggestion that would change both their lives. He told her she should come back and record her own CD. “There are people in this town that need to know you’re here,� he told her. She began collaborating and recording with David, made other connections LQ WRZQ DQG EHJDQ WR VHH WKH EHQHˋWV RI raising her daughter here. She started to rethink her one-year plan. “I knew that people thought this place was beautiful, but I thought, That’s because they haven’t seen the 3DFLˋF 1RUWKZHVW,� Krista says, laughing. “But one morning about two years in, I was driving down the road, and I looked over and saw the hay bales in the mist in the early morning sunrise. All of a sudden, I went, ‘Oh my god, this place is beautiful.’� Around this time, Bloomington Playwrights Project Director Richard Perez convinced Krista to write and perform a one-woman show titled “Slightly Deranged: A Thinking Woman’s Tour D’Vorce.� She refers to the show as a dramatic and cathartic cabaret about EHLQJ OHIW LQ WKH *XOI RI 0H[LFR ,W FDStured the attention of the Bloomington community. Krista and David began to play small gigs around town as a duo, from coffee shops to fundraisers. Around this time, their relationship grew romantic. Vio-

�

lins started to play, she jokes, and she could see herself running toward David LQ D Ë‹HOG IXOO RI GDLVLHV David says their daughters were immediately best friends. Krista and Aurora moved in about a year after Krista and David began dating.

'XULQJ WKDW Ë‹UVW \HDU RI OLYLQJ ZLWK David, Krista toyed with the idea of writing a whole album in a week — a creative challenge. “She set it as a goal but didn’t think much of it outside of that,â€? David says. “There was no presVXUH MXVW DQ H[HUFLVH UHDOO\ ČĽ One morning, Krista decided it was WLPH WR VHH LI VKH FRXOG GR LW +HU Ë‹UVW song for the project, “Buffalo Bill,â€? was inspired by a man David had met in the circus. That song paved the way for the rest of “Mudshowâ€? — a slang term for traveling circuses that set up in big Ë‹HOGV DQG OHIW EHKLQG PXGG\ PHVVHV If I sing it sweet, and I sing it low, maybe he’ll come back this way ... him and his wild west show ‌ For the week that she wrote the album, Krista was on a creativity streak, David says. “I would wake up in the morning, and she would have been up since 4 a.m. and had a new song, and I would just start recording it.â€? All the songs on “Mudshowâ€? are inspired by real people. Krista would walk around Bloomington and write songs about those she met. “Abigayle’s Song,â€? she says, is about a popular waitress at Michael’s Uptown CafĂŠ. One more letter I write without sending, one more night without sleep. One more phone call I’ll let go on ringing, one less secret to keep. But she also drew inspiration from the nature that surrounded her in Bloomington. “I would not have written an album like ‘Mudshow’ had it not been for moving here and getting back in touch with my mother’s roots and just being in the Midwest, where almost everyone is a storyteller,â€? Krista says.

Initially, Krista and David shared the album only with musician friends like Slats Klug and Carrie Newcomer. Their enthusiastic reviews convinced them to give the album a full production and send it off to a contact in Europe. He replied with information they would need to send the album to DJs across Europe. Krista and David were apprehensive. Money was tight, and they couldn’t be sure the investment would lead to anything. Still, they produced, packaged and shipped over 150 CDs across Europe at $10 a package. Within a month, Krista was No. 1 on Americana charts for Germany, Holland and Belgium. And she had offers for multiple record deals. Much of Americana music, with roots in folk, country and bluegrass, evolved from European ballads, and Krista’s sound attracted European listeners. The timing felt predestined. The ˋQDQFLDO FULVLV KLW WKH 8QLWHG States just as music was becoming digital, and piracy issues rocked the industry. Record companies lost copious amounts of money spent to promote mainstream musicians. As a result, individual artists had more responsibility to promote themselves, but they also had creative freedom. Krista, in her 40s at the time, recognized the opportunity. She decided to manage her career in Europe from her home in Bloomington — a goal that required diligent multitasking. For the past decade, she KDV GHDOW ZLWK VL[ DJHQWV LQ VL[ GLIIHUent countries, taken care of her family DQG KHU KRPH WRXUHG H[WHQVLYHO\ DQG produced new music. She was spending about 12 hours a day on her music business. During that time, Krista collaborated with a series of artists on projects like “The Breeze Bends the Grass,� a musical that featured the lives of four women artists at the turn of the 20th century, and “Wilderness Plots,� a series of concerts featuring other Indiana musicians

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performing songs inspired by Scott Russell Sanders’ book of the same name. Scott says her ability to work with others and generate a creative and supportive environment is part of her talent as an artist. “At the root of all art is an impulse of generosity,� he says. “Most artists don’t become artists to make money. They become artists because they want to create something and share it with the world.� A couple of years ago, at the 10-year mark, she started to reassess what success meant for her. She decided to end the nonstop touring and only do shows she wanted to do. It wasn’t an easy decision. “In some ways, it felt like a failure, until I realized that fame never was my big objective. It was always just music and writing and connecting with other people in that process.�

Now, as with so many pivotal moments in Krista’s life, the timing is right IRU WKH QH[W RSSRUWXQLW\ ,Q WKH neighboring 32 acres came up for sale. Last year, Isla graduated from high school and Aurora from IU. Krista and David started discussing their dream for an artist residency. The Hundredth Hill got its name both from the hills that surround them and a phenomenon called the hundredth-monkey effect. Scientists hypothesized that you only need to teach a OHVVRQ WR WKH ˋUVW SHRSOH LQ D JURXS in order for it to spread to the rest of the group. You don’t need to reach everyone, but if you reach enough people, you can make a lasting impact. Currently, they have two “tiny houses� where artists recording at the studio can stay. The houses are made

almost completely of repurposed materials. Like the people who gather here, each piece has a story to tell. Inside one house, the wall is painted white with “Postcards from the Artists in Residence� written at the top. Signatures, dates and doodles are scattered underneath. The residency is a part of her dream for a destination where people come together to be creative and inspire one another. She wants to give back to the community that has given her so much. She credits her time in Indiana — and the generous people she met along the way — as giving her not only the success she found as an artist, but her family and her home. “In a bizarre way, Indiana was my greatest inspiration,� she says. “It was a culmination point for all of my dreams to come true.�

49 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

T H E 812 L I S T

Upside Down

or Right Side Up? 'RHV 1HWËŒL[ȢV Ȥ6WUDQJHU 7KLQJVČĽ JHW OLIH LQ 6RXWKHUQ ,QGLDQD ULJKW" By Kaleigh Howland

H

ROO\ZRRG JHWV FORVH WR KRPH LQ WKH KLW 1HWËŒL[ VKRZ Ȥ6WUDQJHU 7KLQJV ČĽ VHW LQ +DZNLQV ,QGLDQD $ \RXQJ ER\ȢV GLVDSSHDUDQFH DQG WKH TXHVW WR Ë‹QG KLP H[SRVH WKH P\VWHULRXV KDSSHQLQJV LQ WKLV WRZQ LQ Ë‹FWLWLRXV 5RDQH &RXQW\ The rolling hills of Hawkins suggests the real-life inspiration must be the 812 region. So, after talking ZLWK VHOI GHFODUHG Ȥ6WUDQJHU 7KLQJVČĽ H[SHUW -XOLH +DUGLQJ ZKR KDV ZDWFKHG WKH VHULHV Ë‹YH WLPHV ZH KDVKHG RXW ZKDW WKH VKRZ JHWV ULJKW DQG ZURQJ DERXW OLIH LQ RXU QHFN RI WKH ZRRGV ,I +DZNLQV GRHVQȢW Ë‹W 6RXWKHUQ ,QGLDQD H[DFWO\ WKHUHȢV DOZD\V QH[W VHDVRQ $IWHU DOO VWUDQJHU WKLQJV KDYH KDSSHQHG

1

RIGHT SIDE UP

7KH ZRRGV ZKHUH :LOO GLVDSSHDUV LQ VHDVRQ RQH Ë‹WV right in, considering we have the most forests, nature preserves and parks in the state.

2 The quarry where the police discover Will’s “body,�

and where Mike plummets before Eleven saves him, could be one of the many abandoned ones in the 812 region.

1

UPSIDE DOWN

Hoosiers in the 812 area have a hint of a Southern GUDZO EXW \RX GRQȢW KHDU WKDW LQ Ë‹FWLRQDO +DZNLQV

2

Barb disappears into the Upside Down while sitting at the edge of a swimming pool. Since it’s mid-November, we’re looking at 40 degrees outside on an average night – a bit chilly for a late-night dip.

3

We see only one minute of basketball in both seasons. This was the ‘80s, when IU won two national men’s championships.

4

The Hawkins National Laboratory looms over the town, conducting secret testing for years and accidentally opening the gate to a mysterious shadow world. We’re happy to report the nearest Department of Energy laboratory is in Chicago.

50 SUMMER/ FALL 2018

3

Small businesses abound in Hawkins, like Melvald’s General Store, where Joyce Byers, the mother of the missing boy, works. Walmart Inc. didn’t arrive in Indiana until 1983, so family-run businesses, like Stephenson’s General Store in Leavenworth, still thrived.

4

The kids ride their bikes alone at night without fear, DQG WKH\ FDQ ,Q ,QGLDQD KDG D FULPH LQGH[ SHUcent lower than the national average.

7KH TXDUU\ OHIW LQ Ĺ?6WUDQJHU 7KLQJVĹ? VHHPV OLNH KRPH WKH VHFUHW ODE DERYH OHVV VR 3KRWRV FRXUWHV\ RI 1HWĹ´L[

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