SanJuan
Skyway
Summer/Fall 2019
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Welcome to San Juan Mortgages now serving the Western slope. Locally owned and operated. • Are you a successful entrepreneur that has been turned down for a mortgage because you do not fit the profile of a “big box” commercial bank? We can help! • Are you looking to make your first home purchase? We have numerous first-time buyer loan products requiring as little as 3% down as well as down payment assistance programs.
DEBRA MARKOVICH Managing Director (970) 615-0363 debra.markovich@arborfg.com
• Are you in the market for a jumbo or super jumbo mortgage loan? Our jumbo loan products range from $727,000 to $10,000,000 and some require as little as 5% down. We have extensive lending experience and are backed by over 65 lenders ready to compete for your business! Give us a call at (970) 615-0363 or email us for a confidential evaluation so we can help you finance your dream home, be it a Cabin or a Castle!
MATT MAROVICH Mortgage Banker Mmarovich@arborfg.com NMLS 268616/CO MLO 100508767
www.sanjuanmortgages.com This is not a commitment to lend. Restrictions apply as to LTV and credit score. Rates and terms are subject to change without notice. Terms based on loan program guidelines and APR. The credit may not be extended if we find that you do not meet the criteria used to select you for this offer. The products displayed are based upon customers who have not been late on any other mortgage payments, been discharged in bankruptcy or have been subject to foreclosure. APR based on specific loan amount posted. Program savings available upon confirmed qualifications. National Mortgage Licensing System #236669. Arbor Financial Group License #0185041. Call for details. “Regulated by the Division of Real Estate.”
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Contents
Towns Along the Skyway
8 Ridgway
14 Ouray 18 Silverton 26 Durango 28 Mancos 34 Cortez 40 Dolores
24-25 San Juan Skyway map and routes
42 Rico 46 Telluride
Features 10 Get Hooked on Fly Fishing
Big water year means more opportunities to land a fish
16 Old Town, New Look
22
Renovation fever hits Ouray
20 Deep Below the Earth
USGS using new tech to map subsurface geology
22 Just the Ticket
D&SNGRR hosts train rides with special themes
29 Plates for the Park
Mesa Verde specialty license plates proposed
32 Start the Presses
Historic newspaper building revived as Mancos Common Press
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36 Backcountry Beds
Staying in style in mountain huts and lodges
44 Letting Nature Take its Course
Organic mine water treatments being tested in Rico
48 A Bonanza of Borrowing
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
Whatever it is you need, Wilkinson Public Library has it
50 A Last Look
Kevin the yak
A Full-Service Conventional and Natural Foods Market (970) 728-6500 • 157 South Fir (Pacific and Fir) • Open 7am - 9pm daily
Spirits Open 11am - 9pm daily Mountain Village Town Hall Plaza
(970) 728-6500
Open 7am - 9pm daily 490 Sherman Street, Ridgway
(970) 626-5811
Open 7am - 9pm daily Mountain Village Town Hall Plaza
(970) 728-6500
SanJuan
Skyway VISITOR GUIDE
TELLURIDE PUBLISHING, LLC
SanJuan
Skyway ~
VISITOR GUIDE ADVERTISING
Jenny Page ~
EDITORIAL Deb Dion Kees ~ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kristal Franklin ~ DISTRIBUTION Telluride Delivers ~ WEB GURU Susan Hayse ~ PHOTOGRAPHERS Wendy Armstrong, Ryan Bonneau, Rob Huber, Gary Ratcliff, Whit Richardson ~ WRITERS Deanna Drew, Samantha Wright ~ The San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide is produced by Telluride Publishing. Telluride Publishing also produces Telluride Magazine For more information, visit telluridemagazine.com For advertising inquiries: advertising@telluridemagazine.com 970-729-0913 For editorial inquiries: editor@telluridemagazine.com 970-708-0060
GARY RATCLIFF
©2019 Telluride Publishing, LLC. Cover and contents are fully protected and must not be reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher.
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
~ COVER PHOTO BY Ryan Bonneau
WHIT RICHARDSON
Ridgway
62
Choose Your Own Adventure
Placerville
CHART YOUR PATH ALONG THE SAN JUAN SKYWAY
Ouray Sawpit 145
Telluride Mountain Village
Silverton
Rico
145
Dolores
Cortez
550
Mancos 160 Durango
A
ccording to quantum theory, there’s an infinite number of paths a particle can take to move from point A to point B. The “path integral formulation” theory did not just break open the field of theoretical physics, it should also serve as inspiration for the intrepid. There are literally endless ways to get somewhere else. Take the San Juan Skyway for example; the route is 233 miles long, but that doesn’t mean you have to travel it in any particular fashion. There are lots of al-
ternate paths, side roads, and fun pit stops. The possibilities are limitless, so choose your own adventure and make your own way. What about the roads less traveled? In this issue we take a look at some of the remote places travelers can stay for the night, in mountain lodges, huts, and cabins (“Backcountry Beds,” pp. 36–38). The advent of new accommodations in the high country has made it possible for hikers, runners, bikers, and skiers to link together innovative multi-day adventures all over the
San Juan Mountains. “There’s not one route through the San Juans here. There are so many options, and there is an infinite number of variables,” said Lance Sullins of Peak Mountain Guides. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad travels back and forth along the same route between the two towns, but that doesn’t mean you have to ride it the same way every time. The railroad offers special themed rides for adults and children (“Just the Ticket,” p. 22) including the popular Brews Train and Polar Express rides. Also in this issue, we discover historical places along the Skyway that are getting renovated. Mancos Common Press is the new community facility built in the old Mancos Times-Tribune building, where a team of historic preservationists and volunteers restored an 1890 Cranston Press and the timeworn newspaper office (“Start the Presses,” pp. 29–33). And renovation fever has hit Ouray, writes Samantha Tisdel Wright. There are a host of historic buildings in Ouray that are currently getting remodeled (“Old Town, New Look,” p. 16). Scientists are also looking at new ways to rehabilitate and study the mines that were once the main economic force in towns such as Silverton and Rico. The USGS is doing an electromagnetic survey by helicopter that will help them create a 3D map of the subsurface geology and mining activity of Silverton (“Deep Below the Earth,” p. 20). And engineers in Rico are testing a new way of treating mining discharge, constructing wetlands to filter and clean the water before it runs into the Dolores River. Looking for a fresh perspective, trying out a new path, and reimagining history are how you keep adventure alive. It may not be the first time you’ve traveled the San Juan Skyway, but we hope it’s the best. Happy trails,
Deb Dion Kees
Editor, San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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RIDGWAY Even Hollywood took note of Ridgway’s spectacular Western scenery and character,
setting the original film True Grit here
decades ago. Ridgway is the northernmost entry to the San Juan Skyway and is known as the Gateway to the San Juans. Its beautifully manicured town park hosts music concerts, arts festivals, and a farmers market and its county fairgrounds is home to a great professional rodeo that caps off the summer. Ridgway has a sprawling reservoir with camping and its tributary the Uncompahgre River, with all sorts of watersports opportunities, boating, SUP, tubing, fishing, and waterskiing. The community is a hub for artists and artisans, with lots of galleries and outdoor sculpture, and the Ridgway Railroad Museum pays tribute to the town’s advent as a transportation hub, the headquarters of the Rio Grande Southern narrow gauge railroad serving miners, ranchers and farmers in the 1800s.
GARY RATCLIFF
CALENDAR OF EVENTS MAY–OCTOBER RIDGWAY FARMERS MARKET Fresh produce, baked goods, arts and crafts and more are available every Friday 10 a.m. until 3 p.m. in Hartwell Park (with the exception of Thursday, August 8 due to a special event).
JULY 5 RIDGWAY FIRST FRIDAY The Town of Ridgway, the Ridgway Creative District, and community businesses host these events from 5–9 p.m., with discounts, demonstrations, and art exhibits.
MAY 11 LOVE YOUR VALLEY FESTIVAL The festival is from 1–6 p.m. and features micro brews, live music, and dog contests.
JULY 21 OURAY COUNTY RANCH TOUR The Ouray County Ranch History Museum in the Historic Ridgway Depot presents the Ouray County Ranch Tour, featuring local properties and a farm-to-table luncheon.
JUNE 8 RAT RACE The third annual race on the Ridgway Area Trails starts and ends in Hartwell Park. JUNE 9 SCULPTURE CONTEST Michael McCullough hosts this annual amateur sculpting event in Ridgway.
AUGUST 2 RIDGWAY FIRST FRIDAY The Town of Ridgway, the Ridgway Creative District, and community businesses host these events from 5–9 p.m., with discounts, demonstrations, and art exhibits.
JUNE 29 RIDGWAY RIVER FESTIVAL This annual river festival is held at Rollans park, with exhibitions, live music, food and drinks, and the Trail Town 10-miler.
AUGUST 10–11 ANNUAL RIDGWAY RENDEZVOUS ARTS & CRAFT FESTIVAL The 33rd annual art festival features arts, crafts, food, and music.
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AUGUST 17 MT. SNEFFELS MARATHON/ HALF-MARATHON Runners traverse the county roads back and forth from Ouray in this popular annual race.
SEPTEMBER 14 RIDGWAY CHAMBER OPEN The annual golf charity event takes place at the Divide Ranch & Club with a 9 a.m. shotgun start.
AUGUST 25 LOG HILL HUSTLE FUN RUN The Fortuna Tierra Club, a nonprofit that supports the Ridgway community and provides scholarships to students, holds this 5k and 10k running event.
SEPTEMBER 21–22 SNEFFELS FIBER ARTS FESTIVAL Workshops, classes, and exhibitions of fiberwork. Arts and crafts and more are for sale at this fun annual event sponsored by the Weehawken Creative Arts.
SEPTEMBER 1–2 OURAY COUNTY FAIR & RODEO Ranch events include a livestock fair and Fireman’s Ball. The CPRA Roughstock Rodeo events take place at the Ouray County Fairgrounds in Ridgway on Sept. 1–2, and there is a Labor Day parade followed by a barbecue in Hartwell Park.
OCTOBER 11–13 OURAY COUNTY RAILROAD DAYS Celebrate the historic railroads with guided hikes, RGS Goose rides, and other events at the Ridgway Railroad Museum.
SEPTEMBER 6 RIDGWAY FIRST FRIDAY The Town of Ridgway, the Ridgway Creative District, and community businesses host these events from 5–9 p.m., with discounts, demonstrations, and art exhibits.
OCTOBER 11-13 RIDGWAY OLD WEST FEST The Ridgway Western Heritage Society honors the 50th anniversary of the movie True Grit, which was filmed in Ridgway.
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Get Hooked on Fly Fishing BIG WATER YEAR MEANS MORE OPPORTUNITIES TO LAND A FISH
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t was an epic snow season this winter in the San Juan Mountains, which means that it’s also going to be a big water year—higher-thannormal volumes of water in the rivers, creeks, lakes, and reservoirs. All that water will also make for a longer, better fishing season, says Tim Patterson of RIGS outfitters in Ridgway. “This is what we were hoping for,” says Patterson. “The systems really needed to be recharged after the drought last year. The runoff helps support a healthy biomass of aquatic and terrestrial insect life—more food, which means the fish are happier.”
season, predominantly on the Gunnison River, the Caddis hatch that typically takes place in June, and the Mayfly hatch (PMD, BWO, and Green Drakes) that happens in July or August once the runoff subsides. Healthier, longer hatches mean more “dry fishing,” which is when it’s possible to see the fish get the fly right off the surface of the water. “That’s as exciting as it gets,” says Patterson. “Presenting dry flies on the surface and you can actually watch them take it.” It could also be a big season for terrestrial insects including grasshoppers, beetles, and ants, he says. Which all adds up to more food for the fish and stellar fishing season.
JEFF MCKENNA
To excel at the sport of fly fishing, it helps to understand the life cycle of insects—particularly the hatches. If you’ve ever found yourself inundated by flying bugs, you’ve probably encountered a hatch. Different types of insects hatch during different parts of the season, and with the increased river flows, they could be more productive. ““In these type of years, expect to see prolific hatches,” says Patterson. “Sometimes they call them ‘blanket hatches,’ because it feels like they cover everything, up your pant leg, on your neck; they’re everywhere.” The San Juan waterways have a few regular hatches: the Stonefly hatch that happens early in the
MATT MCCANNEL
FISH FOOD
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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All the snow melting from the high country will make for larger volumes of water, says Patterson, and that will translate to a longer and unusually good season lasting into the late summer and fall months. During the spring, when the rivers are flowing fast, he says that fish are concentrated along the river banks. That means that people fishing won’t need to—and probably shouldn’t—wade into the rapids. They can make shorter, closer casts from the safety of the shore. “Even the largest trout will hide and seek shelter against the banks,” he says. Patterson also says that the conditions will be ideal for float fishing trips, one of the most popular types of trips that RIGS offers. They take clients down the Gold Medal waters of the lower Gunnison, 7-mile float trips in a hard shell boat with casting platforms, high back seats, and an anchor system. “It’s the Cadillac of drift boat fishing. It’s relaxing, and there are not a lot of rapids. It’s a great barrier to entry for beginners, families, or couples.” This will also be an excellent year for high-alpine fishing. During some seasons, the mountain streams and creeks run dry, but this year they will continue to be fed by the high country snow. Patterson says that hiking to these secluded spots among the aspen and fir trees to drop a line in the creeks, streams, and high alpine lakes to catch small native fish is one of his favorite types of fishing. “It’s going to be a banner year for high country fishing. I love being outside in nature, in these beautiful places. Once in a while you need to stop, put down the rod, and look around. We live in some of the most spectacular country in all of Colorado. Make sure to take a moment and take that in.”
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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OURAY When you drive into Ouray you may wonder where you took a wrong turn and how you ended up in the European Alps. From Ouray’s incredible Uncompahgre Gorge (which is famous for its manmade ice climbing park in winter) to the pristine and beautiful mountains in which it is encircled, as well as its quaint Victorian architecture, old-fashioned shops, and historic main drag and museum, the town has a distinctly alpine feel. Ouray has all kinds of recreational opportunities, such as hiking, running, camping, jeeping, river sports, and mountaineering; whatever you do, don’t miss the Perimeter Trail, which offers a stunning view of the Cascade Falls and the gorge. After you recreate, relax by visiting one of Ouray’s geothermal treats, hot springs, a pool, or vapor caves.
CALENDAR of EVENTS MAY 25 ACOUSTIC NINJA Catch the internationally acclaimed guitar virtuoso Trace Bundy, named the “acoustic ninja” by fans, playing at the Wright Opera House.
AUGUST 3 GUIDED TOUR OF OURAY’S MAIN STREET Join Ouray County Historical Society staff member Irene Mattivi to get some of the backstory about the buildings on Ouray’s historic Main Street.
JUNE 6, 13, 20, & 27 MOUNTAIN AIR MUSIC SERIES Every Thursday from 6–9:30 p.m. enjoy free, live outdoor music by the Hot Springs Pool at Fellin Park, followed by after-shows with the opening acts at O’Brien’s Pub & Grill.
AUGUST 10 GUIDED TOUR OF CEDAR HILL CEMETERY Join Ouray County Historical Society Paper Archivist Glenda Moore for a guided tour of Ouray’s Historic Cedar Hill Cemetery.
JUNE 15 ELLINGER AND FISCHER Pianist Susan Ellinger accompanies soprano Abigail Fischer at this performance at the Wright Opera House. JUNE 18–AUGUST 6 EVENINGS IN HISTORY Ouray Historical Society presents “Evenings in History,” from 7:30-9 p.m. on Tuesday evenings at the Wright Opera House, with various topics ranging from the Ouray Electric Powerhouse to sheep-grazing and mountain rescues. JULY 4 OLD-FASHIONED FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION Enjoy the Fourth of July in Ouray, starting with the Ourayce 10k, a Main Street parade, kids’ games in Fellin Park, water fights, a Jeep glow parade at dusk, and fireworks after dark. JULY 6 GUIDED TOUR OF OURAY’S HISTORIC MAIN STREET Join Ouray County Historical Society staff member Irene Mattivi for a look at the history of the buildings on Ouray’s historic Main Street. JULY 14 ACOUSTIC EIDOLON Joe Scott and Hannah Alkire of Acoustic Eidolon perform a blend of Celtic, Americana, and world music on acoustic guitar, cello, and a custom double-necked guitar/banjo at the Wright Opera House. JULY 20 GUIDED TOUR OF CEDAR HILL CEMETERY Join Ouray County Historical Society Paper Archivist Glenda Moore for a guided tour of Ouray’s Historic Cedar Hill Cemetery. JULY 26–28 OURAY 100 ENDURANCE RUN This event is about as tough as they come for ultra-runners, with 100-mile and 50-mile run options through the mountains surrounding Ouray. AUGUST 1–10 ARTISTS’ ALPINE HOLIDAY Check out this national juried fine art exhibit, celebrating the event’s 59th year.
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GARY RATCLIFF
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
AUGUST 14–18 OURAY CANYON FESTIVAL The 10th annual Ouray Canyon Festival welcomes adventurers at the Ouray Community Center to set out on canyoneering trips and check out gear vendor displays, movies, workshops, presentations, demos, socials, raffles, and more. AUGUST 17 MT. SNEFFELS HALF MARATHON & MARATHON RUN/WALK Runners traverse the country roads between Ouray and Ridgway in this popular annual race. AUGUST 17 GUIDED HIKE OF THE CORKSCREW TURNTABLE Hike the historic Corkscrew Railroad Bed and Turntable Hike guided by Ouray County Historical Society Museum Curator Don Paulson. AUGUST 19–25 SAN JUAN CHAMBER MUSIC FEST Join world-class musicians in a celebration of classical chamber music at various locations throughout Ouray County. SEPTEMBER 1–2 OURAY COUNTY FAIR & RODEO Ranch events include a livestock fair and Fireman’s Ball. The CPRA Roughstock Rodeo events take place at the Ouray County Fairgrounds in Ridgway on Sept. 1–2, and there is a Labor Day parade followed by a barbecue in Hartwell Park. SEPTEMBER 7 IMOGENE PASS RUN Runners test their skills and lungs against the 17.1-mile course from Ouray to Telluride over Imogene Pass. SEPTEMBER 14 HIROYA TSUKAMOTO Internationally recognized composer, guitarist and singer-songwriter Hiroya Tsukamoto performs at the Wright Opera House. SEPTEMBER 21–22 SNEFFELS FIBER ARTS FESTIVAL The festival has workshops, classes, and exhibitions of fiberwork. Arts and crafts and more are for sale at this fun annual event sponsored by the Weehawken Creative Arts.
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OLD TOWN, NEW LOOK
Renovation Fever Hits Ouray
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By Samantha Tisdel Wright
tuart Gillespie stands on the rooftop of the Columbus House more commonly known as the old Silver Nugget building and looks out over historic downtown Ouray, the picturesque little town ringed by mountains that he now calls home.
Ever since he bought the iconic 121-year-old brick storefront (and former brothel) at the corner of 8th and Main back in February, Gillespie has been up to his eyeballs in renovations as he works to transform the Columbus House into a new business venture: the Imogene Hotel & Rooftop Bar, set to open sometime in 2020. “I think it will be pretty spectacular, with the sun setting over the Amphitheater,” Gillespie says. He is relaxed and happy, as if he’s already got a chilled craft cocktail in his hand. You can almost hear the ice cubes clink. “At night, you can look out over the lights of town, or look up at the stars. It will be a pretty cool place to get a drink.” Gillespie, a 34-year-old lawyer and ice climber who just moved to Ouray from Tennessee, is part of a new wave of Ouray-ites who are helping to revitalize old buildings around town, while carefully preserving and honoring their history. Earlier renovations of some of Ouray’s landmark buildings in its historic district sought to modernize them by covering up their original features, or later, transform them into stunning Victorian time capsules. The new millennial aesthetic calls for revealing and enhancing an old building’s original character, while
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creatively adapting the interior spaces for new uses. Gillespie has been spending the past ten days hand-sanding the floorboards of the upstairs guest rooms where “ladies of the line” once plied their trade, and has just applied for a $200,000 grant from the State Historic Fund to help cover the cost of restoring the native Ouray Ball Park brick exterior, which has started to deteriorate beneath its cracked coating of paint. “It’s a labor of love,” Gillespie says in a soft Tennessee drawl. “We are trying to do as much as we can to keep every bit of history.” A few blocks up the street, on the corner of 6th and Main, a stem-to-stern renovation of the historic Citizen’s State Bank building (circa 1898) is well underway, and will also feature a large rooftop venue with 360-degree views of the mountains that encircle Ouray. Kate Ritter—a former film executive in her early 30s who just moved to Ouray from LA, and who serves on the Social Media and Marketing team at Citizens State Bank—will break in the rooftop venue when she gets married there in May. Ritter, who also serves on the Friends of the Wright Opera House board, is one of the Citizens State Bank
employees who now collectively own the historic bank. Together, they are working to update its operational structure—along with its bricks and mortar—from the inside out. “We want to preserve the history and breathe new life into the building while honoring the old one,” she said. One more block up the street, 31-year-old Ouray native Logan Tyler is frantically wrapping up a renovation project of his own, as he transforms the Victorian-styled corner storefront that formerly housed Ouray Candy into Base Camp Ouray, a hybrid climbing gear store and coffee lounge with a couple of bouldering walls that will also provide a new home for Peak Mountain Guides—and a much-needed hangout for young Ouray climbers. He’s hoping to open in early May. Tyler leased the shop space for his new business from the nonprofit Friends of the Wright Opera House, which recently purchased the entire historic building on the corner of 5th and Main, and plans to integrate it into the enormous $4 million renovation project that is well underway at the Wright Opera House next door. Tyler’s project is bringing a new look and energy to the corner, while protecting and enhancing historical elements of the structure. “It’s been a ton of work,” he said. “I always thought the space was fantastic. It’s got great curb appeal, but it needed a facelift.” Iconic Main Street buildings aren’t the only historic structures in Ouray that are getting lavished with love. The 130-year-old Ouray County Courthouse on the corner of 4th Street and Sixth Avenue is in the midst of a multi-million-dollar renovation, too. And just across 6th Avenue, the Ouray County Historical Museum (housed in the old Miner’s Hospital) is putting the finishing touches on a “little” $275,000 project that has transformed a perennially flooded “basement below the basement” in the back of the building into a much-needed storage and work room that is spacious, warm, and dry. With all of the historic renovations going on around town, “We were all worried that there would be too much competition for grant money,” OCHS curator Don Paulson said. But the foundations have stepped up with plenty of financial support, and the community has, too. “It’s utterly fantastic,” Paulson said.
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SILVERTON Silverton is the best-kept secret in the San Juans.
The tiny, historic town only has about 400 residents, and they like it that way—they
have miles and miles of ruggedly beautiful mountains as their private playground, with great jeeping, hiking, biking, trail running, mountaineering and river running in their own backyard. There are classic Victorian buildings to explore, including the notorious Blair Street establishments, mining tours and gold-panning, music, and theatre. Silverton is also home to the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, where visitors arriving on the first train each summer are treated to locals dressed in Victorian-era costumes and the old-time sounds of a brass band.
ALEX REINHART
CALENDAR of EVENTS MAY 4 TRAIN’S FIRST DAY The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad makes its first trip of the summer.
JUNE 22 ANTIQUE TRUCK SHOW Check out these beautiful vehicles at the parade and on display on Blair Street.
MAY 19 BAR D DINNER The Silverton Chamber of Commerce hosts this annual fundraiser dinner and announces the Citizen of the Year at the event.
JULY 4 FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION AND FIREWORKS Local festivities kick off with a Blue Ribbon fun run/walk, then roll into a parade, the Fire Department’s water fight, the International Rhubarb Festival, a Silverton Brass Band Concert, a Ducky Derby, a theatre matinee, and a fireworks display after dark.
MAY 25 IRON HORSE BICYCLE CLASSIC Cyclists race the train from Durango to Silverton in this annual bike race. . JUNE 8–10 DEATH RIDE BICYCLE TOUR This event is a three-day tour consisting of a 235 mile ride over five mountain passes with 16,500 plus feet of climbing. The tour is a benefit for ALS (Lou Gehrig’s Disease). JUNE 15 CEMETERY WORK DAY Locals pitch in to spiff up the beautiful local cemetery.
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JULY 13 KENDALL MOUNTAIN RUN Race up to the 13,066-foot summit of Kendall Mountain at this popular mountain endurance run, starting at 12th and Greene Streets and finishing in Memorial Park. JULY 14 SILVERTON ALPINE MARATHON, 50K, AND 8 MILE RACES A unique, high alpine course marks these running races, which start and finish at Memorial Park.
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
JULY 19–21 HARDROCK HUNDRED ENDURANCE RUN Perhaps the most grueling of any mountain trail race, the Hardrock Hundred starts and finishes in Silverton and traverses the San Juan Mountains. JULY 24–29 100S IN THE HILLS This is a grassroots event for 100 Series Land Cruiser enthusiasts to ride the trails around Silverton. AUGUST 3 SILVERTON BARBERSHOP MUSIC FESTIVAL Enjoy the quaint sound of barbershop music at the Silverton gym. AUGUST 3 DIRTY 30 ULTRA RUNNING RACE This event features a 55k and a 100k backcountry single-loop courses. AUGUST 9–11 HARDROCKERS HOLIDAYS This event celebrates the town’s mining history with drilling contests and a tug-of-war.
AUGUST 9–11 GREAT WESTERN ROCKY MOUNTAIN BRASS BAND FESTIVAL Delight in these special, old-fashioned concerts at the Silverton School gym. AUGUST 30–31 THE SILVERTON WESTERN MOVIE FESTIVAL Western cinema showings at the Silverton School Performing Arts Center. SEPTEMBER 7–8 SILVERTON COLORFEST QUILT SHOW AND SALE Check out the local fabric artistry at the Silverton School gym. SEPTEMBER 21–22 FALL PHOTOGRAPHERS WEEKEND Photographers shoot the beautiful fall landscapes at this event, hosted by the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. OCTOBER 26 LAST TRAIN The last summer train ride from Durango to Silverton heralds the coming of winter.
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DEEP BELOW THE EARTH USGS using new tech to map subsurface geology
H
ow do you make a three-dimensional map of something that you can’t see? Electromagnetics. At least, that’s the way you do it if you’re mapping the subsurface geology of a collapsed volcano. The town of Silverton sits within the Silverton caldera, a volcano that collapsed more than 20 million years ago, nested within the larger San Juan caldera. Scientists at the U.S. Geological Survey are using new technology to characterize the mineral deposits and possible groundwater flowpaths below the surface of the earth. One of the ways they collected data this spring was using a low-flying helicopter with a large, hoop-shaped electromagnetic system dangling below to measure voltage that will help them map the underground area. Doug Yager, the geologist leading the project, said that the project is an assessment of both the “old plumbing” and the “new plumbing.” Essentially the scientists are looking not only at the volcanology and geologic history that formed the subsurface area, but also at the way hardrock mining has altered the hydrology. “This area is really complex,” says Yager. “It has a long geologic history with caldera activity, a lot of different rock types, mineral deposit types, and the mining that imprinted over the existing geology. It is a geologic nexus.”
This isn’t the first time that geologists have tried to map the subsurface in this region—between 1996 and 2000, scientists were studying abandoned mines and flew another electromagnetic survey. The technology has advanced since then, says Yager. New electromagnetic surveys like the one flown in Silverton use a deeper penetrating technology and advanced processing methods. The team is also using magnetotellurics, a type of ground electromagnetic survey that utilizes the earth’s natural electromagnetic fields, including lightning and so-
Silverton, said Yager. The data collected will include the area of the Gold King Mine disaster, where in 2015, three million gallons of acid mine drainage were accidentally released, turning the Animas River bright orange for a period of time. The project was proposed by Yager and his colleague Eric Anderson after the Gold King event. They competed against other proposals for USGS funding and ultimately succeeded. The USGS project is supported by collaborators including the U.S. Forest Service, San Juan Public Lands, Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment, Colorado Division of Reclamation, Mining and Safety, the EPA, the Bureau of Land Management, and Animas River Stakeholders. The widespread backing points to just how important the project is to the various agencies and community members, but for Yager, Anderson, and their team, it’s all about the science. “It’s incredibly exciting,” said Yager. “It’s a fascinating study. I feel really lucky to be able to work in such an important geologic area. Our project team’s goal is to learn as much as we can about the science of the rocks and plumbing system to make sure what we learn is useful in an applied sense.”
“THIS AREA IS REALLY COMPLEX… IT IS A GEOLOGIC NEXUS.”
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
lar charged particles, to estimate conductivity of the materials deep below the earth’s surface—up to ten kilometers underground. All the data gathered from the various surveys will be combined to create a three-dimensional geophysical conductivity and magnetic model of the area. The results will be crucial for land management decisions involving the cleanup of abandoned mines and future mineral assessments in geologic settings similar to
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Just the Ticket By Samantha Tisdel Wright
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
very weekend in November and December, families travel to Durango from across Colorado to relive the magic of The Polar Express, the award-winning holiday storybook by Chris Van Allsburg and the 2004 movie adaptation starring Tom Hanks, while riding aboard the historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Pint-sized, pajama-clad passengers and their grown-ups board the historic train at the depot in Durango as the vintage coal-fired steam engine belches big pillows of steam into the wintery evening air. Then, with a wail of the whistle, they’re off on an unforgettable journey to the “North Pole.” Along the way, personal waiters read Van Allsburg’s book aloud, and serve holiday treats and mugs of hot cocoa “as rich and thick as melted chocolate”—just like in the book. Santa Claus and his helpers joyfully greet the passengers when they arrive at the North Pole (conveniently about half-an-hour’s journey from the depot in Durango). During the return trip, Santa gives each child their first gift of Christmas—a silver sleigh bell, of course—and the waiters lead passengers in Christmas carol sing-alongs. Now in its 14th year of operation in Durango, the Polar Express Train Ride is one of D&SNGRR’s most beloved annual events. Through a licensing agreement with Rail Events, Inc. (a company started by D&SN-
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activities to railroad and museum operators throughout the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. The Polar Express is by far the most popular Rail Events offering. “It’s a fantastic success story,” said D&SNGRR marketing director Christian Robbins. “And not just for our railroad. Last year, we broke a million passengers, and locally we had 35,000 riders from November to Jan. 1. It is exceptionally popular right around the holidays, and the week of Christmas typically books out in July.” Rail Events also holds a license through the Peanuts syndicate to do a number of Peanuts-themed rides throughout the year. At the D&SNGRR, the Pumpkin Patch Express has become a favorite fall tradition. Charlie Brown and Snoopy ride the train, and passengers get to pick out their own pumpkin at a real pumpkin patch at the end of the ride. At only an hour long, these themed rides are perfect for families with little ones. Over the past several years, D&SNGRR has also developed a tempting selection of themed rides just for grown-ups. The lineup includes Brew Trains, Wine Trains, a Valentine’s Train, a St. Patrick’s Day Train and others. Each Brew Train features four to six breweries from across Colorado. Brewers chat with the passengers about the brews they will be tasting—typically one or two per
hosts train rides with special themes
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
GRR’s owner Al Harper) the storybook experience has also become a phenomenon on almost 50 other rail lines across the country, from the Grand Canyon to New Orleans and Chicago. Harper and his family have owned and operated the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad for more than two decades. The historic railroad was originally opened in 1882 by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway to transport silver and gold ore concentrates mined from the San Juan Mountains. Today, the D&SNGRR is a heritage line hauling thousands of tourists from Durango to Silverton through the Animas River Canyon each summer, behind vintage coal-powered steam locomotives and tender cars indigenous to the line. Riding the D&SNGRR round-trip from Durango to Silverton and back is an enchanting experience. But, it’s a long journey, and it’s not for everyone. Harper started Rail Events Inc. in 2000 as a way of expanding ridership on his trains, while creating a new generation of train fans. The company coordinates a number of licensed special events, event promotions, merchandising, and related
brewery—and pour generous samples into commemorative taster glasses as the train chugs along and the scenery slides by. After 30 minutes, the brewers rotate to the next car. Featured breweries are largely local to Durango—BREW, Steamworks Brewing, Ska Brewing, Animas Brewing, and Carvers—but will be expanding this year to include other Colorado breweries as well. D&SNGRR also offers two Wine and Rails trains every fall, featuring Colorado wineries from the North Fork area near Paonia and Hotchkiss. Both the beer and the wine trains run from Durango to Cascade Canyon, about two-thirds of the way to Silverton in the heart of the San Juan National Forest. The train stops in an open meadow surrounded by stands of pine trees and aspens, next to the sparkling Animas River. “We set up tables with tablecloths and flowers, and we offer a catered menu and a live band,” Robbins said. “In the fall, it is pretty much perfect—as much beer or wine as you want, with all the food and live music, and great fall colors.” And no need to worry about a designated driver on the return trip to Durango. These event trains for grownups have become a huge hit—especially the Brew Train, which got an extra dose of publicity last year after an article in the online publication Thrillist went viral. In the article’s aftermath, D&SNGRR was flooded with over 20,000 email requests for Brew Train reservations. “The Thrillist crowd is really into beer, apparently,” Robbins said. To meet the demand, nine additional brew trains have been added to the schedule this summer, in addition to two already-sold-out events in the fall. “The demographic on the Brews Train and Wine Train is day and night from the traditional Silverton train,” Robbins said. “We are introducing the D&SNGRR to a whole new generation that might not have thought of riding a train as something fun to do.” D&SNGRR also offers lots of other themed train rides throughout the year. The Fall Photography Train and Winter Photography Train are hyper popular with that particular subset of train fans who are obsessed with taking photos of trains. An Easter favorite, the Hops & Hops Train Excursion is the perfect family adventure, with hoppy adult brews, a visit from the Easter bunny, an Easter Egg hunt, and sublime mountain views. There’s also a Mother’s Day Train Adventure with complimentary fresh flowers, chocolate treats, and a strolling musician serenading passengers. Perhaps the coolest specialty ride of all, the infamous Durango Blues Train is a rollicking 3.5hour musical extravaganza of live blues music aboard the historic train as it travels to the San Juan National Forest. Organized by the Telluride Blues and Brews festival, this year’s event is scheduled for Aug. 16 and 17, and features six live blues performances aboard the historic D&SNGRR coalfired, steam-powered train. Each artist performs in their own vintage coach, while passengers dance and drink their way from coach to coach. Artists this year include Duwayne Burnside, Blackfoot Gypsies, Molly Gene - One Whoaman Band, Kirk James, Low Volts, and Randall Conrad Olinger. The Blues Train always sells out. If you missed out on getting tickets this year, Robbins recommends picking out a spot along the tracks and just watching the train go by. “That is cool in itself,” he said. To make reservations and see a complete lineup of events, visit www.durangotrain.com.
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The SanJuan Skyway
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U.S. HIGHWAY 160 Starting in Durango, Colorado, the largest city on San Juan Skyway, the byway follows U.S. Highway 160 (US 160) west through the town of Mancos to Cortez passing the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park. STATE HIGHWAY 145 At Cortez, the byway turns north following State Highway 145 (SH 145) through the town of Dolores and follows the Dolores River into the San Juan National Forest. The byway passes through the small town of Rico, county seat of Dolores County prior to 1941; the old courthouse still remains. From Rico, the byway crosses 10,222 ft (3116 m) Lizard Head Pass and enters the Uncompahgre National Forest. Lizard Head Pass provides views of the 14,159-foot (4,316 m) El Diente Peak, the 14,246-foot (4,342 m) Mount Wilson, the 14,017-foot (4,272 m) Wilson Peak and the pass’s namesake, the 13,113-foot (3,997 m) Lizard Head Peak. The byway descends near the little town of Ophir past the location of the famous Ophir Loop of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A spur road heads off to the old mining town turned ski resort of Telluride. The
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
byway follows the San Miguel River down to the little town of Placerville. STATE HIGHWAY 62 The byway turns east at Placerville onto SH 62 and follows it over Dallas Divide. There are many excellent views of the San Juan Mountains, especially of the mountains around the 14,150-foot (4,310 m) Mount Sneffels. From top of the divide the byway descends into the town of Ridgway. The entire route of the byway from Durango to Ridgway roughly follows the route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. U.S. HIGHWAY 550 From Ridgway, the byway turns south onto US 550 following the Uncompahgre River into the Victorian mining town of Ouray. From Ouray south back to Durango, the highway is referred to as the Million Dollar Highway, not for its priceless beauty but for the extreme costs of its initial construction. The first 7.0 miles (11.3 km) south of Ouray, the byway follows through the Uncompahgre Gorge. Just past the only tunnel on the route, just south of Ouray, the road
crosses over Bear Creek Falls on a bridge at the location of an impassable toll booth on the original road. The Alpine Loop National Back Country Byway, a fourwheel-drive jeep road takes off in the gorge south of Bear Creek Falls. Before leaving the gorge, the byway passes through a snow shed under the Riverside Slide avalanche zone. A monument stands near here honoring those who have lost their lives in the avalanche, including several snowplow operators. At this point the byway enters Ironton Park, a nice flat valley in contrast to the gorge. The road ascends several switchbacks, or S-curves, past the Idarado mining operation to the 11,018-foot (3,358 m) summit of Red Mountain Pass, providing views of Red Mountain (Colorado) and several ghost towns. Back into the San Juan National Forest, the highway descends through the Chattanooga Valley to Silverton. From Silverton, the byway passes over the 10,910-foot (3,330 m) Molas Pass and the 10,640foot (3,240 m) Coal Bank Pass descending past the ski resort of Durango Mountain. From Hermosa, the road parallels the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad before returning to Durango.
SMALL PHOTOS: MILOSK50©-ADOBESTOCK.COM, SNEHIT©-ADOBESTOCK.COM
he San Juan Skyway is the ultimate road trip. Along its breathtaking 236-mile loop are vibrant alpine communities, historic landmarks, Mesa Verde National Park, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, wild rivers, pristine waterfalls and lakes, high-elevation passes and the gorgeous, jagged San Juan Mountain Range for which it is named.
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McPhee Reservoir
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Hesperus Mountain 13,232 ft. Mancos S.P.
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Sunlight Peak 14,059 ft.
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Lemon Reservoir
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Coal Bank Pass 10,640 ft.
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Lizard Head Pass 10,222 ft.
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Alpine Loop
Mountain Village
Mount Wilson 14,246 ft.
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Telluride Telluride Ski Area
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Ouray
Vallecito Reservoir
Mancos
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Colorado Welcome Center
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DURANGO The authentic Western town of Durango is the San Juan Skyway’s version of a metropolis—there
are even a few traffic
lights on its main corridor—and town is the main population center of Southwestern Colorado, so there are plenty of businesses and nightlife in the downtown area. But the town is also a hub for outdoor recreation, with the Animas River, local lakes, and lots of great hiking, biking, and mountaineering. There are all kinds of unique experiences you can have in Durango, from the interactive Durango Discovery Museum, to a trip on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a day of zip lining or a paintball fight, to an old-fashioned shootout at the quick draw competition each year. Durango is the perfect mix of Old West and New West culture.
CALENDAR of EVENTS MAY 4 TRAIN’S FIRST DAY The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad makes its first trip of the summer. MAY 2–4 DURANGO WINE EXPERIENCE Three days of wine tasting, educational seminars, wine dinners, and unique tastings. The events include hundreds of wineries, artisan spirits, and craft beers. MAY 11–OCTOBER 26 DURANGO FARMER’S MARKET Stroll through the farmer’s market on 9th street and check out the fresh food and locally grown and homemade products. The market is open on Saturday mornings through October 26. MAY 19 TASTE OF DURANGO Sample the best from Durango’s many restaurants and listen to live music on Main Avenue in downtown Durango.
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MAY 24–26 IRON HORSE BICYCLE CLASSIC Bicycles race the narrow gauge train from Durango to Silverton in this annual event, which also includes a criterion in Durango. JUNE 1 ANIMAS RIVER DAYS Celebrate the Animas River with fun events, including a parade, dog contest, river races, and more. JUNE 5, 12, 19, 26 & JULY 3, 10, 17, 31 & AUGUST 7 TRUE WEST PRO RODEO Watch a professional rodeo at the La Plata County Fairgrounds. JULY 4 INDEPENDENCE DAY IN DURANGO Come join in the fun for all of Durango’s 4th of July events, starting with a breakfast and 5k run at Rotary Park and ending with a parade and a river parade followed by a street dance on Main Avenue and fireworks at dusk.
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
JULY 12–13 GEM AND MINERAL SHOW Located at the La Plata County Fairgrounds, the gem and mineral show features kids’ activities, a silent auction, raffle, mineral displays, and 60 vendors. JULY 6–28 MUSIC IN THE MOUNTAINS Summer music festival featuring classical music, a complement to the year-round youth educational programs. JULY 20–28 FIESTA DAYS Celebrate the region’s Spanish history and cowboy heritage with rodeos, a parade and other activities. AUGUST 24 SAN JUAN BREWFEST Durango is known as the “City of Brewery Love” and the “Napa Valley of Beer,” and visitors can find out why with a food and beer tasting on Main Avenue.
OCTOBER 3–7 DURANGO COWBOY POETRY GATHERING A celebration of the culture and heritage of the American cowboy with performances by poets and musicians. OCTOBER 26 LAST TRAIN The last summer train ride from Durango to Silverton heralds the coming of winter.
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MANCOS It is easy to see why the prolific Western author Louis L’Amour chose the Mancos area as his home and as the setting for his books. The Mancos Valley continues a 140-year tradition as the center of ranching at the edge of the San Juan Mountains and Mesa Verde National Park. Mancos is the bridge between the culture of the Old West and the New West, with cattle drives down Main Street and modern art galleries along Grand Avenue, a cidery, a brewery, and a coffee house, as well as easy access to all the hiking, biking, fishing, and hunting that makes people fall in love with the West.
DODSON
PHOTOS BY STEVE FASSBINDER
CALENDAR of EVENTS MAY 8–12 UTE MOUNTAIN-MESA VERDE BIRDING FESTIVAL Spring migrants and early nesters attract birdwatchers from across the nation to the Birding Festival. Located in the Archaeological Center of America, many of the field trips visit spectacular areas such as Mesa Verde National Park and Ute Tribal Park. Workshops, an art show, and a special dinner speaker round out the events at the festival. MAY 18, JUNE 15, JULY 20, AUGUST 17 GRAND SUMMER NIGHTS Stroll the streets in Downtown Mancos from 4–6:30 p.m. and enjoy food, art demonstrations, kids activities, and carriage rides, followed by live music at 7 p.m. at Fenceline Cidery.
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JUNE–SEPTEMBER MANCOS FARMERS MARKET Mancos hosts a farmers market every Thursday evening, 4-7 p.m. on Grand Avenue. Live music, crafts, and lots of local producers and growers vending fresh food items. JUNE 22 MANCOS COWBOY HALF MARATHON/5K/FUN RUN Runners meet at the library for this event, which is sponsored by the Mancos Project, a running club and training center. JULY 26–28 MANCOS DAYS Mancos Days features family fun, parades, softball, music, and great food.
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
JULY 26–AUGUST 4 MONTEZUMA COUNTY FAIR Enjoy this classic 4H county fair with livestock auctions, food, arts and crafts at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds.
SEPTEMBER 8 COMMUNITY HARVEST DINNER Mancos celebrates the annual harvest with food, art, and community activities.
AUGUST 17 MANCOS VALLEY BREWFEST Sample the local beers and food and listen to live music at this summer festival at Cottonwood Park.
SEPTEMBER 21 OPEN STUDIO TOURS Watch art demonstrations, visit local galleries, and take a tour of local artists’ studios.
AUGUST 25 & SEPTEMBER 28 FEE-FREE DAY AT MESA VERDE Celebrate our national public lands with free entry into Mesa Verde National Park.
SEPTEMBER 27–28 MANCOS VALLEY RIVER FILM FESTIVAL Enjoy films and guest speakers at Mancos Brewery and Mancos Opera House, with a closing party at Fenceline Cidery.
PLATES FOR THE PARK Mesa Verde specialty license plates proposed
S
ome people wear their hearts on their sleeves. Others wear them on their bumper. Soon, people who love Mesa Verde National Park might be able to do just that with a specialty license plate paying tribute to the park. Mesa Verde National Park is not just a national park, but also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, established to preserve the heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people that lived there between 600 and 1300 CE. Mesa Verde is home to 5,000 archaeological sites and hundreds of cliff dwellings, and the park welcomes more than a half million visitors annually. Mesa Verde also contributes $55 million to the regional economy each year and supports more than 800 jobs. Like most national parks, Mesa Verde has a backlog of maintenance and projects needed to keep the location in good shape for guests. The entrance fees and federal budget appropriations still leave the park with a $57 million deficit, according to the city of Durango. That’s where Mesa Verde Foundation comes in; it’s a nonprofit organization that does fundraising
to support the park. The group solicits donations and holds special events such as breakfast talks with park staff to raise money. They identify and help fulfill needs—bear-proof food storage lockers, a new park orientation film, a site and architectural plans for a visitor center. “Just about every national park has some sort of affiliated organization or foundation,” said Janet McFarland Burlile, the executive director of the Mesa Verde Foundation. “Ours is on the smaller side.” It is indeed small—Burlile is the organization’s only employee—but the group can still accomplish big things. This year, the Mesa Verde Foundation proposed a new way to raise money: specialty license plates. The first step was
getting 3,000 signatures from Colorado residents with registered vehicles on a petition for the plates, which was accomplished by mid-February. “The Department of Revenue says we did it in record time,” said Burlile. “We’re quite proud of that.” The next step was introducing a bill in the state legislature, and once that passes, the plates will be ready for vehicles in 2020. Artwork for the Mesa Verde plates was designed by Dae Knight and reviewed by Peter Pino. Pino is a member of the Zia Pueblo tribe, one of 24 tribes with an ancestral affiliation to the park, as well as a foundation board member, tribal council member, Kiva Leader, and one of the tribe’s Keeper of Songs. Drivers who want to support Mesa Verde can be eligible to get the plates with a minimum $30 donation. Burlile is hopeful that the plates will be a valuable resource for Mesa Verde, to raise both money and the profile of the park. ““We were looking for an ongoing effort, a continual stream of funding,” said Burlile. “The parks need private support to really make them the jewels that they are in this country.”
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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Hike Bike Play Stay laugh eat Shop relax refresh
#meetmeinmancos
MANCOS
Photos by Steve Fassbinder/ Mancos Creative District
COLORADO COLORADO
MANCOS MANCOS
Photo by Roger Brooks
AT THE INTERSECTION OF
ART & ADVENTURE Discover Mancos! Nestled between the majestic La Plata Mountains and the grandeur of Mesa Verde, we are home to a myriad of cowboys, craftsmen, artists, musicians, brewers, chefs, farmers, makers, ranchers, adventurers, and more. Dont miss our historic downtown featuring random cattle drives, the Mancos Historic Opera House, Mancos Common Press, and many late 1800’s buildings.
mancoscreativedistrict.com Alpacka raft
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192 S. Main Street alpackaraft.com
mancos brewing company
VEryl Goodnight Gallery
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Fenceline Cidery
141 S. Main Street outliercellars.com
106 Grand Avenue verylgoodnight.com
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made in mancos
Mancos inn & hostel
Colorado Ranch & home realty
Photo by Roger Brooks 484 Hwy 160 E Frontage Rd mancosbrewingcompany.com
artisans of mancos
101 Grand Avenue artisansofmancos.com
145 Grand Avenue coloradoranchandhome.com
200 W. Grand Avenue mancosinn.com
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school of the west CLASSES
Local Artist Studios schoolofthewest.org
Sponsored by Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce mancosvalley.com
*
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Bomdiggity MANCOS Mystical Market
550 Railroad Avenue facebook.com/bomdiggitymancos
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Historical newspaper building revived as Mancos Common Press rank Matero was walking in downtown Mancos in January of 2013, past the old Mancos TimesTribune building on Grand Avenue. It was usually empty, so he was surprised to see an editor typing away inside. He asked if he could take a look behind the false wall of the building, which had always intrigued him. He was astonished by what he saw. There was no power or lighting, but even by flashlight he sensed the enormity of the discovery. Behind the wall, Matero, chair of the graduate program in historic preservation at University of Pennsylvania and an architect, found a completely untouched and intact newspaper office from the last century. There was a giant Cranston press, which he later learned was a very rare item, and there was shelving, furniture, blocks of type, and a typesetters bench. The sealed-off room still had an ornamental metal ceiling and light fixtures. It was as if he’d opened a door into the past. “It was walled up almost like a tomb,” said Matero. Matero, who splits his time between the Four Corners area and Pennsylvania, met with the community nonprofit Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce to make a pitch about what he’d found. At the very least, he hoped to convince them to document the discovery. They went further than that, embarking on an ambitious project to preserve and restore the building and its precious contents.
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Members of the community formed the nonprofit Mancos Common Press under the fiscal umbrella of Mancos Valley Resources, and the building’s owner, Ballantine Publishing, graciously agreed to donate the structure and its treasures to their efforts. A cadre of volunteers came forth and spent hundreds of hours cleaning out and repairing the building. Betsy Harrison sits on the Mancos Valley Resources board and was the administrator of a 2016 grant from the Colorado State Historical Fund. “Without the state historical funding, the restoration of the building would not have been possible,” said Harrison. Matero enlisted the help of his UPenn colleague, Matt Neff, an artist and director of the undergraduate fine arts program at the university, to assess the behemoth Cranston Press. The Cranston is a single-revolution drum cylinder press used for printing newspapers that was made in 1890. This particular relic was delivered by train from the East Coast and likely pulled by a cart and placed in the unfinished building in 1910 or 1911, before the back of the building was put on. It was used until 1969 to print the local paper. Neff had never seen that model before—it was only after several years that was he able to find one or two others still operating—but he and the team of volunteers set about trying to restore it. He was amazed at its pristine condition and how well the arid climate here had preserved it. “I was fortunate to meet the last operator before they shut it down. He was in the middle of doing a job and left wet ink in the tray when the paper was bought by a larger newspaper and he left. The ink in the tray was still wet…I was able to scoop it right out.” Restoring the Cranston mostly involved cleaning, stripping, and putting it back together, but they did have to re-cover the rubber rollers that distribute the ink onto the type itself. The volunteers also found a local blacksmith to build the “chases,” the metal boxes that the type is set in. Matero’s students supported the local team by researching the history of the newspaper and doing a scientific analysis of the plaster walls, paint, and ceiling that informed the restoration work. There was even a surviving photo from 1911 of the building’s interior that enabled them to identify every piece of furniture in the shop. The Mancos Times-Tribune space was home to more than just the Cranston press. In addition to the actual letterforms, pieces of type that were more than a century old, the building also contained a hundred-year archive of newspapers and photogravure blocks etched into copper and zinc. The Mancos coalition even procured a second, smaller letterpress printer to enhance the renewed space. The Mancos Common Press, which pays homage to Benjamin Franklin’s 18th century printer, the Common Press, opened its doors to programming including lectures, courses with the local school district, and letterpress classes. Neff said that letterpress printing is making a comeback in the arts world. There’s a certain elegance to the medium, he says; the way it slows people down and lets them revive the antique implements of journalism to communicate ideas in a new way. Letterpress has had the same revitalizing effect on downtown Mancos. The classes are always full and the space has breathed life into the arts community in the town. “I never even gave letterpress a thought, and now it’s all I think about,” laughs Harrison. “The building was boarded up for so long. Now it’s coming to life again, and the community is really excited about it. We’ve had a lot of fun.”
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CORTEZ Cortez is the most ancient stop you’ll make on the San Juan Skyway tour—Montezuma County has been settled since approximately A.D. 600 when about 100,000 Pueblo Indians made this area their home. Today you can explore the archaeology of the first settlers as well as the arts and culture that still bears their imprint. Cortez also has great networks of mountain biking trails, hiking trails and terrific fishing. The cowboy culture from more recent eras is still alive and well, and you can experience it firsthand at the Ute Mountain Roundup Rodeo, the 89th annual event and a professionally sanctioned rodeo. The region also offers agritourism opportunities, where you can see dryland beans such as the unique old cultivar Anasazi bean or visit some of the lovely modern wineries in the McElmo Canyon and Montezuma Valley.
CALENDAR of EVENTS MAY 8–12 UTE MOUNTAIN-MESA VERDE BIRDING FESTIVAL Spring migrants and early nesters attract birdwatchers from across the nation to the Birding Festival. Located in the Archaeological Center of America, many of the field trips visit spectacular areas such as Mesa Verde National Park and Ute Tribal Park. Workshops, an art show, and a special dinner speaker round out the events at the festival. MAY 11 12 HOURS OF MESA VERDE MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE Mountain bikers compete in this popular annual team relay endurance race at Phil’s World in Cortez. MAY 31-JUNE 2 UTE MOUNTAIN NATIVE AMERICAN BEAR DANCE Celebrate this special traditional dance each summer in Towaoc.
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JUNE 6–8 89TH ANNUAL UTE MOUNTAIN ROUNDUP The Ute Mountain Roundup is a rodeo that started after World War I, and today is sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association. The rodeo features all the classic roping, barrel racing, bronc busting, and bull riding events. JUNE 9 UTE MOUNTAIN CASINO CAR SHOW The Ute Mountain Casino and Hotel hosts its first annual car show.
AUGUST 2–4 CORTEZ RENDEZVOUS HOT AIR BALLOON RALLY Watch the hot air balloons launch from the Parque de Vida and fly over the landscape. AUGUST 10 GEORGE GREER MEMORIAL CAR SHOW Check out the classic cars at this event in Centennial Park in Cortez.
JULY 4 CORTEZ FIREWORKS Catch the action at this Independence Day fireworks display at Centennial Park.
AUGUST 23–25 UTE MOUNTAIN CASINO POW-WOW Experience the tradition of a Native American Pow-Wow at the Ute Mountain Casino in Towaoc.
JULY 26–AUGUST 4 MONTEZUMA COUNTY FAIR Enjoy this classic 4H county fair with livestock auctions, food, arts and crafts at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds.
SEPTEMBER 14 21ST ANNUAL HARVEST BEER FESTIVAL Enjoy the great fall food and taste craft beers at the Parque de Vida.
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
SEPTEMBER 28 FEE-FREE DAY AT MESA VERDE Celebrate national public lands with free entry into Mesa Verde National Park. OCTOBER 12 MONTEZUMA’S REVENGE CHILI COOK-OFF Chefs vie for the prize at this event at the Cortez Cultural Center. OCTOBER 13 RIDE OF THE ANCIENTS Cyclists convene at the Parque de Vida in Cortez.
VISIT
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sutcliffewines.com info@sutcliffewines.com SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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Backcountry BEDS Staying in style in mountain huts and lodges
L
ance Sullins, the owner of Peak Mountain Guides, stands in front of a wall covered with green topographic maps of the San Juan Mountains. He is eyeing the small red marks, each one indicating the location of a mountain lodge or hut. He traces his finger slowly over the landscape between the red points, imagining the routes that connect them and the adventures that lay in between.
Each year, more lodges and huts are being built, making backcountry travel more accessible and enabling people to bike, hike, climb, and ski without having to carry camping equipment and food. Backcountry lodging makes it possible for people to venture further out into the wilderness and have multi-day trips, even in the winter. Sullins said that the difference between the San Juan Mountains and other ranges in Colorado is the breadth of the terrain. “There’s not one route through the San Juans here. There are so many options, and there is an infinite number of variables,” says Sullins. Joe Ryan had the vision of linking backcountry travel in 1987 when he built the San Juan Hut system, a series of five cabins stretched along the Sneffels range in the northern San Juan Mountains: Last Dol-
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lar, Burn, Ridgway, North Pole, and Blue Lakes huts. Ryan stayed in huts when was a climbing and skiing guide in Canada in the 70s and he imagined creating a multi-day ski touring route here. He remembers living on Hastings Mesa and driving a backhoe down county roads into Ouray at a slow clip, eyeing the terrain above, when he had an epiphany. “I thought, this is it. This is where I gotta build it. This is where it will work.” Ryan’s San Juan Huts are rustic, simple cabins in remote locations. They provide sleeping bags, pads, wood stoves, cook stoves, propane or solar lights, pots, pans, and utensils. Each hut has a water source—a spring or a stream—nearby, but guests typically haul in their own food and use maps, descriptions of the routes, and GPS points to navigate to and between the cabins. They connect to some of the most breathtaking spots
in the high country, says Ryan. “I like the day trek from North Pole to Blue Lakes. It’s close to the mountains, and really spectacular. The view from Wilson Creek summit is one of the top five views in the state.” The San Juan Huts were such a success that he built more: six huts that span from Telluride to Moab, and six huts that run from Durango to Moab, both meant for biking. Those routes both also have an alternate singletrack course for a more challenging mountain bike trip. “It’s really like four routes, with the singletrack,” says Ryan. “The mountain biking trips are quite busy.”
easy to keep the lodge stocked, it also makes access possible for even the casual adventurer. Despite its proximity to the road, Red Mountain Alpine Lodge is still secluded and visitors can’t see or hear traffic. “The location gives people access to the backcountry who might not have been able to experience it
THE SOUTH SIDE Along the Red Mountain Pass corridor, between Silverton and Ouray, a host of new mountain lodges and cabins are springing up. The latest addition is the Red Mountain Alpine Lodge, a beautifully crafted, sophisticated building that accommodates twenty people. Red Mountain Alpine Lodge is perhaps the most luxurious of the backcountry cabins—it has running water, hot showers, food and drink service, and is entirely off-grid with solar power and propane heat. There are games, puzzles, a dart board, a barbecue, and all the amenities—even Wi-Fi—although the real trappings are the peaks and trails surrounding the lodge. “The space has such good energy,” says director Andrea luppenlatz. “It’s got a wood stove in the living room, a communal dining room table. We do have all the amenities, but it’s still the quintessential hut experience, with good vibes and people exchanging emails and phone numbers at the end of their trip.” Best of all is the fact that the lodge is just 300 yards from Highway 550. That doesn’t just make it
high country above: Opus and Thelma huts, which were built fairly recently, along with St. Paul lodge and the Mountain Belle, Addie S, and Artist cabins. Local guides like Kerr are eager to take people on multi-day adventures and traverse the high country. “Now that there are more huts, the possibility of hut-to-hut travel is exciting,” says Kerr. “You could travel from Red Mountain Alpine Lodge, hike up Ohio Peak, and head to the Opus Hut. It’s a big day, but because you don’t have to carry an overnight kit, it suddenly becomes doable.” The Opus Hut offers some of the more remote backcountry lodging on the south side, but it’s still one of the most well-appointed and comfortable cabins. Opus owner Bob Kingsley, who also manages the Thelma hut, says that guests appreciate the conveniences—a sauna, running water, and especially the indoor bathrooms. “It’s a little more comfortable than some huts, but it’s definitely not fancy. It sleeps sixteen people and is furnished with comforters and blankets. We also serve food and liquor, and people really dig that.”
TAKING THE HIGH ROAD
before,” says San Juan Mountain Guide Sheldon Kerr. “Grandma can come up with you and have breakfast and dinner and you can go hike or mountain bike.” Red Mountain Alpine Lodge is the new kid on the proverbial block, having just opened last December, but there is a proliferation of huts along the corridor and in the
Smack dab in the middle of the huts on the north side and the south side of the San Juans, in the high country above Ouray, sits the Mount Hayden Backcountry Lodge. The Hayden is a rustic log cabin built in the 80s which is being renovated by Eric Johnson. Johnson added solar power and developed the onsite spring for conventional plumbing, and is working on an 1,800-squarefoot addition this year. The lodge’s amenities will include a hot tub, sauna, shower, food, and a full bar. The Hayden’s location is the missing link for local guides pursuing a haute route like the one in Cham-
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KRISTOFER NOEL
BEN GAVELDA
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onix that connects backcountry lodging via the high country terrain. Linking the north and south is sort of the holy grail, the ultimate goal, says Kingsley. Traveling in winter, the Hayden is anywhere from three to six hours from the accommodations along Red Mountain Pass, and a day trip on foot in the summer to the Opus Hut. Guests can also go over Blue Lakes pass and hook up to the San Juan Huts. “Mount Hayden Backcountry Lodge is located in the spectacular and pristine Richmond Basin,” says Johnson. “It will be an integral connection for the San Juan haute route.” Sullins and his Peak Mountain Guides partner, Keith Garvey, pieced together a local haute route ski tour this winter that crosses the San Juan Mountains and also uses lift access at the Telluride Ski Resort. Sullins says that because of the avalanche danger and extreme terrain, it’s more of a mountaineering objective, an adventure, than it is about finding good snow to ski. He says that Garvey was the visionary behind the route. “He never liked driving shuttle,” laughs Sullins. It was European hut systems such as the haute route that first inspired Kingsley to build the Opus, which he did himself between 2005 and 2010, after spending time abroad and as a mountaineering guide. He’s excited to welcome ultrarunners, skiers, and hard core adventurers that want to travel in style with minimal gear. “It’s always been a goal of mine to try and create a string of full-service huts where you can travel light between places, and it’s starting to happen,” he says. “I love turning people on to the wilderness and showing people they can do it in comfort.”
Backcountry Elevated 866-315-2361
redmountainalpinelodge.com info@redmountainalpinelodge.com
Trek high. Travel light. Sleep tight.
Thelma Hut
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OPUS Hut KRISTOFER NOEL
OpusHut.com SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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DOLORES Dolores has a little bit of everything that makes a Western town great:
history, culture and outdoor recreation. There is incredible
fishing, boating, and waterskiing on McPhee Reservoir (the second largest body of water in the state), and other water sports on the local lakes and rivers. Hiking, camping and mountain biking abound in the surrounding San Juan National Forest. The Canyon of the Ancients Visitor Center is a fun, interactive museum devoted to the history of the ancient cultures of Pueblo, Ute, and Navajo Native Americans, and has two 12th century pueblo ruins on site. Dolores has an exact replica of an original train depot and a Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum and a restored Galloping Goose car. Escalante Days is the region’s celebration of its historic Dolores River Valleys, where the Dominguez-Escalante expedition camped in 1776 and mapped and logged the first record of the lands and people in what would become Colorado and Utah.
CALENDAR of EVENTS JUNE –OCTOBER DOLORES FARMERS MARKET Pick up fresh vegetables, produce, and more from local farmers and ranchers on Thursday evenings from 4–7 p.m. at Flanders Park. JUNE 1 DOLORES RIVER FESTIVAL Listen to great music outdoors, participate in river events, free raft rides, and the river dog contest, and sample the food and craft from vendor booths at the Joe Rowell River Park in Dolores.
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JULY 4 DOLORES TOWN FOOD AND FIREWORKS Celebrate Independence Day at the Groundhog Lake and RV Park. . JULY 26–AUGUST 4 MONTEZUMA COUNTY FAIR Enjoy this classic 4H county fair with livestock auctions, food, arts and crafts at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds.
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
AUGUST 9–11 ESCALANTE DAYS Escalante Days features parades, booths for vendors, a Kiwanis Club duck race, the Rotary Club mountain bike race, chainsaw and arm wrestling competitions, live music, food, arts and crafts, Galloping Goose Days activities and more for the whole family at Flanders Park. SEPTEMBER 28 FEE-FREE DAY AT MESA VERDE Celebrate National Public Lands Day with free entry into Mesa Verde National Park.
OCTOBER 12 HARVEST FESTIVAL Harvest Fest is a fun outdoor fall event, featuring food, vendors beer, apple tasting, apple cider press, hard cider tasting, live music and more at Flanders Park.
Stay & Play on the Beautiful Dolores River and on the Scenic San Juan Skyway. RV/Tent Sites • Cabins • Yurts • Vintage Trailers Covered Wagons • Riverfront Camping Dog Walk/Nature Trail/River Walk • Laundry Room Remodeled Bathhouse • Gift Shop Large Rec Hall with Commerical Kitchen Ice Cream Socials • Food Trucks • Fun for All!
970.882.7761
DoloresRiverCampground.com
420 Friendly Rooms 440 South Broadway, Cortez 970-565-3755
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Colorado we love you Explore the history of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad in Dolores, Colorado
Galloping Goose Historical Society Museum
GOOD PEOPLE • GREAT BEER TASTY FOOD COOL MUSIC OPEN TUES–SUN 4PM–CLOSE 100 S. 4TH ST DOLORES CO 970-882-4677 (HOPS) DoloresRiverBrewery.com
Open Monday to Saturday 10 am – 5 pm Mid-May to Mid-October
Enjoy SPECIAL FULL-DAY EXCURSIONS with RGS Galloping Goose No.5 Railcar on the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad or the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. Contact the railroads for excursion information. 421 Railroad Ave. Dolores CO • (970) 882-7082
www.GallopingGoose5.org
ANCIENT ARTS REINTERPRETED SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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RICO Rico was first settled as a mining town in 1879. At its peak, the silver-mining community had a population of nearly 5,000 and was a stop on the Rio Grande Southern railroad with almost two dozen saloons and a thriving red light district. The Rico Historical Museum, located in the historic firehouse building, documents the town’s storied past. Today, the town’s residents seek other types of treasure—the vast miles of recreational trails. Routes range from short loops to multi-day backcountry adventures, and visitors can access the Colorado Trail from town. A haven for mountain biking, Rico also boasts a free public bike repair station and tire pump.
ROB HUBER
CALENDAR of EVENTS MAY 25-27 RIDE TO RICO Enterprise Bar & Grill is hosting motorists on a ride to Rico with live music and a barbecue.
JUNE 22–23 BLUEGRASS IN THE BEER GARDEN Enjoy bluegrass music outdoors at the Enterprise Bar & Grill.
JULY 5 DUSK LIGHT PARADE Rico hosts a dusk light parade and community ice cream social.
MAY 27 MEMORIAL DAY Memorial Day features an honor guard service at the Rico Cemetery and a Navajo taco luncheon hosted by the Rico Women’s Club
JULY 4 FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATIONS Town events include a craft sale, parade, fireworks, a community BBQ, a duck race, and live music. JULY 4 ENTERPRISE EVENTS The Enterprise Bar & Grill hosts a watermeloneating contest, a wood-splitting event, and live music by the Rico Blues Project
JULY 6 BAKE SALE AND PICNIC The Rico Women’s Club presents a bake sale and a community picnic featuring Todd Jones’ famous barbecue.
JUNE 9 VOLUNTEER TRAIL WORK DAY Volunteers are invited to help maintain the local trails with the Rico Trails Alliance.
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AUGUST 17 SUMMER FUNDRAISER Rico Trails Alliance holds its summer fundraiser with a mountain bike ride, a raffle with prizes, an auction, food, and music.
AUGUST 25 & SEPTEMBER 29 VOLUNTEER TRAIL WORK DAY Volunteers are invited to help maintain the local trails with the Rico Trails Alliance.
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Rico River Ranch is 27+ acres of highly coveted vacant riverfront land only 25 miles from Telluride and bisected by the beautiful Dolores River. It’s bordered on two sides by San Juan National Forest and adjacent to the scenic San Juan Skyway for easy year-round access. Located just south of Rico it provides the perfect balance of privacy, recreation and unspoiled nature along with convenient town amenities. There are numerous sunny building envelopes all with fantastic river and mountain views. Brokers welcome with 5% commission offered.
FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT info@ricoriverranch.com or visit: ricoriverranch.com SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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LETTING NATURE TAKE ITS COURSE Organic mine water treatments being tested in Rico
W
hether you’re enjoying the solitude of Rico’s hiking and biking trails or walking through its quiet streets of colorfully remodeled miner cabins and funky, hand-built homes, it’s hard to imagine that this quaint mountain town with a population of just 250 once boasted thousands of residents and a hundred shops and services during the hard rock mining boom of the late 1800s. But look a little closer and evidence of the town’s rich history is still visible. Just north of town, beyond the dense roadside stands of aspen and lush riparian greenery of the Dolores River, a series of manmade ponds capture water pouring out of the St. Louis Tunnel, a remnant mining portal. Originally constructed in 1923 to haul ore out from the bottom of Telescope Mountain, the tunnel is over two miles long and drains hundreds of gallons of mineral-rich water per minute from old Rico mine workings to the floodplain of the Dolores River. The series of settling ponds were dug to treat the adit discharge with lime and allow metal solids to settle
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out of the water before it returned to the river. But by 1977 all mining activities in Rico ceased; in 1996 the site was abandoned, and treatment of the mine water was discontinued after maintenance of the ponds stopped. But the water kept flowing. Over time, the upper ponds nearest to the portal became thick with orange mineral sludge containing dangerously high levels of heavy metals from deep within the mountains. By 2000 the ponds were full, at the end of their life, and in danger of failing or overflowing into the Dolores. Alerted to the situation by the Rico community, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) stepped in and in 2011 ordered the Atlantic Richfield Company (ARC) mine owners to clean up the site and identify a long-term management solution for the tunnel’s perpetual flow. Traditionally, lime and metal sludge that settles to the bottom of mine treatment ponds is dried out, dredged, and hauled away to a repository for contaminated soils, but this process is time consuming, energy intensive, and costly—and sooner or later, like the ponds, the repository would be full. A better solution was needed.
By Deanna Drew
So scientists and engineers are applying a more modern, innovative approach to the St. Louis tunnel to improve the quality of the acid mine drainage, enhance the appearance of the ponds, and ensure the environmental health of the Dolores River and the Rico community.
Putting the Wetlands to Work
It’s no surprise that the early miners were attracted to the rugged Rico Mountains. The hillsides around town are full of verdant mountain seeps and springs coming from rock fractures that are characteristic of the steep slopes and loose soils found in the San Juan Mountains. These faults often exposed the sought-after mineral ores, and as the water came out, the prospectors went in. In addition to abundant groundwater, Rico’s ample snowfall and thunderous monsoons generate high alpine streams which rumble down from the surrounding 12,000 foot peaks, depositing rocks and minerals into the river valley below where hopeful placer miners eagerly sifted their fines. This proliferation of natural wetlands in and around town not only adds to the physical beauty of the community, but also provides food and habitat to the hundreds of animal species that live here. These specialized ecosystems slow down water from spring runoff and summer rain to mitigate erosion and flooding, and store and release water over time to help maintain groundwater and stream flows during times of drought.
Perhaps the most valuable function of Rico’s wetlands is their ability to naturally filter pollutants from water. Water flows slowly through wetlands so that residues drop out, and contaminants are taken up by micro-organisms in soils and roots of plants that are adapted to survive in these wet conditions. Around Rico, wetlands have been busy cleaning water flowing from overgrown, deserted mines scattered at the edges of town for a hundred years, with hardly a notice. And for a historic mining district that has evolved into a recreation and tourism economy, these qualities are as good as gold.
Back to Nature
Natural wetlands have been used as a convenient discharge site for wastewater as far back as the mining days, but it wasn’t until the 1960s when the EPA began to monitor “swamp discharges” for water quality and biological integrity that we started to understand the purification potential of wetlands. Now, after years of research and test projects around the world, the use of natural and constructed wetlands are accepted water quality management techniques, and confidence in the technology has spread….all the way to Rico. Downstream of the St. Louis Tunnel lies a riparian area where nature has taken over and transformed the mine’s lower settling ponds into a thriving wildlife habitat. The dikes built between the old ponds now serve as beaver dams, creating a flourishing wetland complex overgrown with willow, alder, and thick sedge grasses that fill shallow benches of water at
the pond perimeters. Compared to the upper ponds, in the lower ponds no sludge is visible, the water looks clear and the vegetation appears to be robust and healthy. Recent beaver activity is present, river otter have been spotted, and kingfisher are seen hunting from above. Today, scientists and engineers at the St. Louis site are testing different methods to treat the water discharging from the tunnel, by taking the old ponds and making them function and appear more natural, like the lower ponds. After removing the sludge from the old ponds and improving their stability, the new, passive wetland treatment systems were created using natural materials including soil, plants, rock, woodchips, manure, hay, fish fertilizers, and bacteria to organically reduce metals in the water. To create the engineered wetlands, scientists researched which plant species were used to treat other mine discharges throughout the world, then selected ones to fit Rico’s elevation and native plant populations. The carefully chosen wetland plants including rush, bulrush, and sedge were installed to settle additional metals and add organic matter to the system to mimic the appearance of natural wetland habitat. “Atlantic Richfield has been a great neighbor,” says Rico Town Manager Kari Distefano, adding that Rico residents are employed by the project and work from offices in the old Masonic Lodge on Main Street. “I really believe they are working with the community’s best interest in mind.”
A wetland treatment system such as the one being tested at the St. Louis provides advantages over traditional techniques. The passive system can still operate during Rico’s severe weather when access to the site becomes difficult, and because of the natural environmental energies at work in a modern wetland treatment system, minimal energy and chemicals are necessary. Distefano says this project could serve as a model for cleanups of other historic mines in the San Juans. “We think this project could be a feather in the cap for Rico, for southwest Colorado, and for Atlantic Richfield.” So far, the innovative wetland treatment system seems to be working: Water quality reports to the EPA indicate 98 percent reductions in targeted metals in the water. However, once the final design is approved, the wetlands will still need to be monitored and maintained for the foreseeable future. From time to time, solids will still need to be dredged and wetland plants will need to be added and replaced. Although tens of millions of dollars have reportedly been invested in this project, the engineered wetland system is still likely to be cheaper and easier to manage than a traditional system. Not only is the wetland system cleaning the water, it’s also restoring the natural beauty around the town. “Function rather than aesthetics has been the primary goal of the remedy, but the overall appearance is another benefit of this system,” says ARC Director of Media Affairs Michael Abendhoff. “And test results show the plants are doing well, too.”
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TELLURIDE Telluride is one of the most strikingly beautiful places you will ever see;
it is also known as the “Festival Capital of the Rockies”
because of its vast array of cultural events each summer. Like many of these Western towns, Telluride started out as a mining community but earned renown for its skiing and mountaineering. Today visitors can climb the acclaimed Via Ferrata route high above town or to the top of Bridal Veil Falls (the state’s tallest waterfall), see a Grammy-award winning musician in Town Park, catch a free ride up on the gondola and hike around or zip back to town on one of the downhill mountain biking courses, eat at one of the top-rated restaurants in the country, or even watch a world premiere of a new movie at one of the film festivals. There are galleries to stroll, classes to take, and rivers and trails to explore, and don’t miss the Telluride Historical Museum, which hosts unique exhibits, indoors and outdoors.
RYAN BONNEAU
CALENDAR of EVENTS MAY 24–27 MOUNTAINFILM IN TELLURIDE The festival celebrates the outdoors, featuring films about adventure and ecology, symposiums, and lectures. This year is the 40th anniversary of Mountainfilm.
JUNE 27–30 TELLURIDE YOGA FESTIVAL Yoga instructors from all over the world convene in Telluride to offer workshops in all types of yoga, meditation, and other events.
JULY 19 AH HAA ART AUCTION This madcap annual fundraiser for the local arts school features a live auction with entertainment and a silent auction for all types of artwork and prizes.
MAY 31–JUNE 2 TELLURIDE BALLOON FESTIVAL Watch hot air balloons soar above the San Miguel Valley or stroll past them, tethered and aglow on main street during the early evening.
JUNE 30–JULY 6 TELLURIDE PLEIN AIR FESTIVAL Landscape artists from across the country come to paint the region’s vistas; plein air painting is done outdoors, and the art is exhibited and sold to benefit the event’s host, the Sheridan Arts Foundation.
AUGUST 5–11 TELLURIDE CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL Classical music concerts are held outdoors and in various small venues around town.
JUNE 3–7 WILD WEST FEST Celebrate the culture of the West at this weeklong, family-oriented festival hosted by the Sheridan Arts Foundation. JUNE 20–23 TELLURIDE BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL This year marks the 46th annual festival, one of the country’s most renowned bluegrass music events, held during the weekend of the summer solstice. This year’s lineup includes Brandi Carlile, Kacey Musgraves, Gregory Alan Isakov, and more. JUNE 27–30 TELLURIDE WINE FESTIVAL The festival features four days of fine wines, seminars, tastings, winemakers’ luncheons, and cooking demonstrations.
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JULY 4 TELLURIDE 4TH OF JULY CELEBRATION Telluride’s Independence Day features a parade, a community barbecue, games and activities for families in Town Park, and a grand fireworks display after dark. JULY 12–14 THE RIDE FESTIVAL The Ride is a multi-day outdoor music concert in Town Park. This year’s lineup includes Widespread Panic, Jason Isbell and the 400 Unit, Big Head Todd & the Monsters, and more.
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
AUGUST 9–11 TELLURIDE JAZZ CELEBRATION From international jazz legends to up-andcoming brass ensembles, the annual festival hosts the best of the genre at Town Park during the day and at the local venues in the evening. This year’s lineup features Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue, Lettuce, Robert Randolph & the Family Band, and more. AUGUST 15–18 TELLURIDE MUSHROOM FESTIVAL Symposiums, classes, forays, and a parade all celebrate fungi in this fun weekend event. AUGUST 28–SEPTEMBER 2 TELLURIDE FILM FESTIVAL Telluride hosts an internationally acclaimed film festival with world premieres, movie stars, filmmakers, directors, and a free outdoor cinema.
SEPTEMBER 7 IMOGENE PASS RUN Runners start in Ouray and cross over 13,114-foot Imogene Pass, finishing in Telluride. SEPTEMBER 13–15 TELLURIDE BLUES & BREWS FESTIVAL This popular fall music festival features craft beers from all over the country and a beer tasting, as well as big name music acts in Town Park and at late night “Juke Joints” performances in local venues. This year’s lineup features Phil Lesh & the Terrapin Family Band, Boz Scaggs, Anders Osborne, Tab Benoit, and more. SEPTEMBER 26–29 TELLURIDE FESTIVAL OF CARS & COLORS This event is a celebration for automobile enthusiasts with the mountain foliage as a backdrop; this year’s event also features a fly-in.
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A BONANZA OF BORROWING Whatever it is you need, Wilkinson Public Library has it By Laura Colbert
“I
really need a bike, a banjo, and a graphing calculator while I am visiting Telluride.” “I’m having a party and I really need some lawn games, a karaoke machine, and a microscope.” “I’m taking care of loose ends and could use a sewing machine, a check engine code reader, and a vinyl-to-digital converter.” “I want to rock out, but live in a small space. I could use a roll up piano, roll up drums, a ukulele, and an amplifier.” When I overhear these kinds of wish lists, I have this delicious moment of anticipation just before I clear my throat and say, “You can borrow all those things from the library for free, you know.” It gives me and everyone else who works at Wilkinson Public Library in Telluride great pleasure connecting patrons with all the things we offer. Of course we have a huge selection of traditional materials like books, magazines, and DVDs—both the kind you can touch and digital versions that are available 24/7—but it’s our list of unusual items available for check-out that never fails to bowl people over. It’s also possible to borrow: a GoPro, poker set, projector, robotics kit, slackline set, disc golf set, stroller, tennis racket, trekking poles, Kindle, iPad,
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
WiFi hotspot, Xbox, Nintendo Classic, snowshoes, board games, binoculars, bass guitar, electric guitar, electric piano, guitar, mandolin, violin, portable DVD player, digital camera, external computer drive, Roku, Colorado state parks pass, tape-to-digital converter, tripod, and a VHS-DVD converter. This award-winning, amazing library had humble beginnings. Wilkinson Public Library is named in honor of Larry and Betty Wilkinson, who championed a library in Telluride from its inception in a meager Quonset hut the mid 1960s, through various expansions and into today’s beloved and well-used 20,000-square-foot building on West Pacific Street, which opened in 2000. Besides describing our impressive list of unusual items to borrow, I love to tell people that the original Quonset hut library was only open two or three days a week, three or four hours a day, with a collection consisting of local donations and discarded books from other libraries, and the entire donation-only budget went toward coal for heat. The library existed in an old jail for a time after that and in 1997, a town referendum to build the current multi-million-dollar building passed by a narrow margin of two votes. Libraries are one of the few remaining public spaces where you are not expected to buy something
to be there. Wilkinson Public Library is a community center that welcomes all comers. The building fills everyday with visitors who bring their kids to the children’s area and exclaim they have never seen one quite so nice, locals looking for a quiet spot to use a computer and the copier/scanner/fax, and teens excited to be in a space they can call their own with supportive staff who are good listeners and who organize fun activities. In addition to the accommodating space and amazing materials, we offer a host of regular programs and special events for children and adults. Yoga, Booze and Books, Story Time, Kids Cook, Device Advice, author talks, and writing workshops are just a handful of what goes on any given month. The best thing? It’s all free. WPL wouldn’t be an award-winning library if it were just a warehouse of items. The friendly and knowledgeable staff is what really makes it a special place. You can come in with any question, library related or not, and we will do our utmost to answer it for you. So next time you think, “Wow! Telluride has such clear, dark skies. I could really use some stargazing binoculars, trekking poles to get somewhere cool, and a guide to the constellations,” Wilkinson Public Library has you covered.
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A LAST LOOK
Kevin the Pet Yak Strolling down the streets in downtown Ridgway, you might run into a strange sight: a woman walking a pet yak on a leash. Leslie Waters rescued Kevin, who was ill and being bullied by his herd of yaks at a nearby ranch. Once he was well, he could not be re-assimilated into the herd, so she kept him as a pet. He spends most of his time in the pasture but enjoys window shopping and greeting people around town. “He has made so many friends,” says Waters. “He’s the reason we get invited to parties.” Photo by Wendy Armstrong
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019
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