W H A T ’ S
I N S I D E
MO NT HLY C O L U M NS FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6 ON THE MARK ....................................................7
Publishers
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
Contributors
Jack Broomall, Mark Byers, Pamela Collins, Bill Heald, Pamela Hunt, Tony Lisanti, Tom Wright, Dr. Seymour O’Life
BACKLASH..........................................................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................12 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................14 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18
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WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................20 SHIRA’S INSIDE SCOOP ..................................23
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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................56
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FE AT U RE S TWO-WHEELIN’ AND TWO STEPPIN’.............25 EVENT AND RALLY NEWS ..............................30 THE HAMMER RUN .........................................34 CULTURE + CURVES IN THE PYRENEES .......41 OUT WITH THE OLD, IN WITH THE NEW........50
MOTO R C YCL E S P OT L I G H TS ROYAL ENFIELD + HARLEY-DAVIDSON .........38
PR O DU C T R E V IE W S MOSKO PANNIER KIT .....................................24 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS..................................48 KLIM BADLANDS JACKET ..............................53
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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2018. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN
Positive Paradigm There had been a lot of talk of how women are portrayed in a few motorcycle advertisements these days in various magazines. More and more companies are specifically going after the women’s market – a great idea at the right time. But, not every company thinks of women as potential customers and worthy to invest in. For some, a pretty and scantily clad gal is just allure to draw a male consumer’s eye to their product. Boys and girls are different and I get that. But it is this difference that makes being a human so much fun. It is a birds and bees thing – yes, we know that some birds of a feather flock together and all that. But, there is a difference between admiring, enjoying and being supportive…. and some of the bad things we have been hearing over the last few months. These days, it seems that a few men need to be reminded that there was a reason we were (hopefully) raised to be gentlemen and with, I dare say, a more positive paradigm for women and women riders. I know most of the men I ride with remember this. Some other guys – not so much. Glad I never worked in Hollywood or Washington! Sadly a good part of our motorcycle industry still has not grasped this idea. Even in these socially charged last months I still see misogynistic advertisements that make no sense when they come to portraying women or motorcycle products. Case in point… an ad that has a handlebar company advertising its wares. Well, we all need handlebars, especially the custom crowd…. But, the gal portrayed here is a bit just north of the charts and what she is doing…well, really!? What are women looking at this ad to think? Surely, not anything good. Hard to argue with any one on this - as it is very close to Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart’s, “I know it when I see it” comment as any out there. We all want, and the industry needs, more and more women to join our ranks in the motorcycle community, but we still have some companies that use women in an overtly sexual and, I think, disparaging way. They have less than a positive paradigm when it comes to women motorcyclists.
To me a strong and beautiful woman portrayed as a real rider seems far more beneficial to a motorcycle industry company than an overly enhanced lassie not wearing much and there as eye candy only. It’s like Gal Gadot’s Wonder Woman versus Fonda’s Barberella. I am not talking the well-dressed floor models that have been used in the auto and motorcycle industry for decades, or the women that work with motorsports racing. They need a paycheck too. A few months back I watched this year’s first AMA Supercross from Anaheim and the young lady holding the 30-second card before one race was a stunner in every way. Each MotoGP rider at every race has a modelesque umbrella girl – at least for now. Perhaps these ladies are not going anywhere soon (although Formula 1 has stopped the practice of grid girls this season), but if we ever have a female on the grid in MotoGP I would hope she has some serious beefcake holding the umbrella for her. If I were a few decades younger I’d happily step up to the task. But, what I want to stay with here is the ridiculous objectification of women in some advertising that still, on occasion, pokes its head up and won’t seem to go away. Backroads is not innocent either as, over the years, we have had a few questionable ads as well, usually slipped in at the last minute by a client. Mea culpa. In truth we prefer more modest and ‘real rider’ women advertisements in these pages – thank you. Most of the mainstream publications and manufacturers have long ago realized that women riders are the quickest growing segment of their readership and our business. In an industry that is seeing so much attrition we should be embracing and enticing these new riders – not driving them away. But there are some magazines and companies out there that will never change, never get it and will never get real motorcycle-riding women enthusiasts to read them either. Their use of women would make Hugh Hefner blush. Why would any gal that really rides a motorcycle, real female enthusiasts, be moved to spend their money on a product portrayed in such a way? When I say ‘enthusiasts’ I mean the female riders who wear ‘real gear,’ work on their skills, and to whom motorcycle riding is not an occasional hobby but an intricate part of their lives. Why would they buy a product that some company is trying to sell with such barefaced T & A? I don’t think many. At least I hope not.
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL
Have a rally good time 5 Reasons why you should attend a Backroads’ Rally soon I certainly hope that you have heeded our past words and spent this ridiculously long white period planning all those great rides that you will take with the return of the sun. While some have the luxury of time to explore far and wide, in country or abroad, many are still constricted by what we call life and must choose their travel time carefully. It was with this in mind that, 20 years ago, we began our Backroads’ Rallies. If you have been reading us for that long, thank you for years of support and we hope that we have brought you to some places that would have otherwise been missed. If this happens to be the very first issue of Backroads you’ve seen, welcome and we look forward to meeting you on the road and, as this column will continue, at one of our Rallies. Plug and Play What we endeavor to do is bring you on a great long weekend of riding, exploration and adventure in some of the prettier parts of our region. We’ll offer up the lodging, routes and some suggestions for places to visit and you decide if you want to use some, none or all of those elements. With the predominant use of GPS systems these days, it has made our job just a touch easier and the offered routes a little more, shall we say, interesting. Should you be of the Manually-Acquired Positioning System mindset, there is always the option to tag along with a GPS-rider and see just where we’ve succeeded or failed on our mission. For the most part, the rally is pretty easy
Page 5 and unstructured, what we like to call ‘semi-ordered chaos.’ We do know that they are all fun. local Referring back to that time thing, Backroads’ Rallies are for those who can steal away on a Thursday thru Sunday for some riding fun. Most of our destinations are within a day’s ride, (sometimes a long day’s ride), getting you to the start in time for an evening cocktail and dinner and, at the end, home in the same timeframe. True, there are those who travel quite a distance to join our merry band of ralliers, but I think that just shows that they are worth the trip. social Motorcycling is a solitary affair. You and your bike, traveling along, seeing the sights, experiencing life. True, riding two-up will change that and adding a communication system will change that even further. But for the most part, when you don that helmet you are sealing yourself apart from the rest of the world – in a good way, I think. Backroads’ Rallies give you the party at the end of the ride. From our very first Fall Fiesta 20 years ago with 12 in attendance to our present with over 100 at times, there is the option to meet like-minded riding folks and share your day’s riding experiences with them. Over the years, great bonds and friendships have been forged, with many riders ‘reuniting’ at our rallies. We’ve even had a few marriages from our rallies. comPact We shove quite a bit into our long weekends. Great rides, history, mystery, ice cream, culture, excitement, adventure, unique lodging, food experiences and so much more. We’ll bring you to at least three different destinations, with daily rides ranging from short lunch loops to 300-milers depending on your preference. Sometimes we organize group dinners, which are always Continued on Page 9
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HeALD tHe number of tHe tires, sHall be tHree We all have our leanings. The term usually refers to the ways we are likely to go when facing a decision or opinion where a total commitment is not quite indicated, so we “lean” towards a certain type of solution that fits our normal way of thinking. Actually, I don’t care about this definition today, for I’m thinking about something far more important: how motorcycles lean in turns, and how a strange adaptation in the front chassis architecture keeps popping up every few years and messes with everything. This is no mere tweak, either, for I’m talking about adding a whole entire front wheel (to hang out with the one that’s already there), thus creating a conveyance with a pair of front tires with two forks, etc. to lead the way. Hooboy. I mentioned these three-wheeled modifications tend to roll out every decade or so, and the current version that caught my eye involves Yamaha’s acquisition of the Norwegian company Brudeli, which has technology that Yamaha uses on their new Niken sport bike. So once again we have a single wheel in back, two in front and then the motorcycle leans like a regular motorcycle in turns. What fresh hell is this? I’m already having vision issues, and now I see a two-wheeler that is really a three-wheeler but rides like a two-wheeler. In the words of one Victor Frankenstein, courtesy of the late Gene Wilder, “What strange goings on.” The reason this tri-tech keeps showing up is there are a number of attributes to such a design, and with each new version it seems to get closer to performing well enough for mainstream status. When a big player like Yamaha takes the risk of building production versions (especially in a period where the industry is having its issues), we may be seeing a significant, even evolutionary, change in motorcycle technology. Or Not. But no matter what fate shall befall this bold new triplet, I for one am curious. In the interests of full disclosure, I have never had a good relationship with the three-wheeled moto-critter. I’m referring exclusively to the one in front, two out back tricycle arrangement as its the only type I’ve experienced
and it was always a rocky relationship. From bikes with sidecars to full-on trikes (including modified Gold Wings with a 9-inch Ford live axles as the drive unit), I have never been comfortable. Shoot, I can even go back to 3wheeled ATVs when I was a genuine menace to both flora and fauna on the accursed things. It’s all about countersteering, which everything from bicycles to Boss Hoss’ do and is one of life’s great mysteries when you consider how pushing the right bar away from you actually makes the bike turn right. It has always vexed me because countersteering is initially counterintuitive. But ultimately this miracle of physics works, and your amazing brain/body interface does all the heavy lifting anyway and makes riding a motorcycle as natural and comfortable as, well, riding a bike. So when confronted with a handlebar that doesn’t react the way I think it should, I’m a bit at sea. So the idea of adding the third tire up front is intriguing, because if the bike still countersteers it will feel something close to normal. The question is, does this new Niken countersteer? Yamaha says the very trick linkage system allows for a “natural feel” so I think that means yes. Immediate advantages include twice the contact patch, so this offers a boost in both cornering stability and braking. But how much heavier does the steering feel with all that extra hardware out front? Its twin-wheel front architecture means the bike stands up on its own, which is nice at stops but it also means it takes more room to park and requires a wider path which would be a drawback in very congested situations. I also think the design sounds like it would be prone to understeering, but this is pure conjecture on my part. When its time to re-tire, you have another hoop to deal with so that would mean (let me take off muh shoes so I kin cipher), let’s see, a third more money to buy tires. Wait, is that right? Oh well, you get the point. But all that aside, this is some very interesting stuff. Time will tell if the bike is accepted and even embraced, and what the real-world advantages are. The racing world has not adopted this new way of doing things, but it’s possible that it will become a thing down the road. This is always a good place to look, because the engineers and race gurus are always on the prowl for the next big breakthrough. In this case, there are some serious positives but the increased weight and friction, and the wider aerodynamic profile, means you’d need more power to do the same velocity and that irritates tuners. In my case of course, I’d have to overcome my completely irrational prejudice against the number three when it comes to motorcycles, and give this new engineering a chance. Hey, my Triumph is powered by a Triple, and we get along just fine. Baby steps, man.
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
ON THE MARK MARK BYeRS
aftermarket blues Last year, I sold my friend Wayne an ’06 Suzuki Vstrom. It is low-mileage for its age and is replete with farkles to make it ideal for bicycle-race officiating. It features LED driving lights, a heavy-duty headlight harness, an accessory fuse panel, and heated grips. It is a great bike, but there is a cautionary tale therein about the addition of aftermarket parts: if anything ever goes awry, you are going to work on it yourself because every dealer is going to run like hell when they encounter aftermarket installations. There are a number of reasons. First, there is a vast disparity in abilities between those who install accessories. Most driveway “mechanics” have little idea what they’re doing beyond simple “plug and play” things and even then, they’re a risk, especially when electricity is involved. I’ve seen some scary installations, including lamp cord used to wire lighting that requires a fair amount of current. The area under the seat of one bike was a virtual rat’s nest of wires (with the requisite problems). A dealer’s tech, even a good one, could spend a career inside someone’s bike and still not find the sneak circuit or poorly-soldered wire that is causing the issues. Second, there’s a product-liability issue. Thanks to our overly-litigious society and the folks who make their coin that way, no dealer wants to be associated with anything that isn’t factory- or dealer-installed. There’s too much risk that you will run off the road or have your headlights fail or have an accident for another reason and BLAME it on the dealer, irrespective of their actual culpability. The greater the volume of aftermarket goodies you’ve placed on your bike, especially electrical stuff, the greater chance you have of needing to work on it yourself. Third, sometimes the aftermarket stuff literally gets in the way and adds to the time required for repairs or maintenance. Most service agreements mention that nonstandard stuff may be billed at a higher rate because moving your farkles to get to the repair or maintenance area may take extra time. Manufacturers have set times that things are supposed to take to maintain, but that goes out the window when the rat’s nest you installed is in the way, IF they will touch it at all. So that brings me back to Wayne: his headlights stopped working. The driving lights worked and everything else on the bike worked, but neither headlight did. Like all good home troubleshooters, he went online and self-diagnosed it to a handlebar switch, which he changed…to no avail. THAT is when he found out just what dealers think of aftermarket gear. The local dealer took one look at the aftermarket headlight harness and relays and fuse panel, made a mildly disparaging remark about aftermarket stuff, and refused to work on it. That’s when I got the call. Here’s another ramification of farkling your own bike: EXPECT that call.
Page 7 I was pretty sure it would be an easy fix since I knew the bike so well. For one, I install stuff with the quality of components and installation techniques associated with the aircraft on which I’ve worked for over 30 years. The voltmeter told his tale and by all appearances, everything was fine. Being the engineer I am, I had installed a backup means to directly jumper the headlights to the battery as a hedge against a failure of the fuse panel, and sure enough, when so connected, the headlights went back to normal. It was vexing, however, because the voltage was there. After trying a new relay just in case (no effect), I noticed a slight discoloration of the wire coming out of the fuse panel. A little more prying and it was clear that the junction of the heavy-gauge wire and the little screw that attaches it to the bus had gotten hot enough to cause a tiny meltdown without blowing the fuse. Bingo! That’s why I had voltage, but not enough current to run the lights. I have a notion that, while the wire gauge is more than adequate, the contact area between the little screw and the wire was not sufficient and a little hot spot got created. This will soon be rectified, no pun intended, but the jumper I’d made allowance for is working just fine in the meantime. While we were working on the bike, I made sure to give Wayne a complete tour of the installations, including a lesson on how these particular relays work, because if anything ELSE happens, I don’t want him to be singing the Aftermarket Blues.
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BACKLASH Good Ol’ Maps… Dear Mr. Good-Looking and Smart Editor Guy, Real maps show every road (paved or not), every stream, hiking trail, pond, hill, valley, power line, railway, and alien craft landing site. My maps give this much detail in 100-square mile chunks and hundreds of them fit neatly inside my sidecase cover. No folding or unfold is required to use these large-ormat “booked” maps. Better yet they work without batteries, cords, or satellites. Two years ago, I bought a zümo 660LM. It was OK. In January of this year it was stolen from my car. I don’t miss it at all. Not sure what I’ll do with that Garmin hot cradle thing on my V-Strom. Maybe I can convert it into a heated sunglasses holder for winter riding. Ride well and far, Jeff adams, msgt, usaf, (ret.) Ahh Jeff, we agree. How many nights and bottle of wine have been shared while reading our favorite author – Rand McNally? MAPS - Manually Acquired Positioning Systems! But, GPS works too. It’s like traditional print Backroads and the online edition or The Backroads Report. We hope they can all work together!
MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
Letters to the Editor The Backroads Report… Something new for our readers Nice Bit of info!! I just got a 85 CR 500 R……what a beast, I will get killed on this thing. Adding a weight to the flywheel does even help, maybe a hole in the piston next. Nice work on Space X mission. gary Hey Backroads, Enjoying The Backroads Report in addition to the monthly magazine. LOL! Send it 3-4 days in a row and 50% of the riding population will swear to it. Repetition creates persuasion. Hope you guys are doing well. Sorry I missed the lunch with you and Paul. Looking forward to Spring Break ride for 3 days then on to NS450 with Phil and company. The best of both worlds. chuck Potzer Hi Brian, Shira I just want to say I love your “Free Wheelin” and “Whatchathinkin” sections. But I also want to thank Bill & Mark. Bill’s “Postcards from the Hedge” is going to help me get ready for my cross-country ride to La Crosse in June. Sometimes you cannot see the forest for the trees and Bill opened my eyes. Mark’s ‘On the Mark” is always great also. This month I gotta say to him just pack your underwear and buy new riding gear when you get there. THEN either sell it on the cheap or think about shipping it home. It’s kinda like renting a bicycle … cheaper than shipping your own, although I do like the idea of wearing everything on the plane including your helmet. Ya know when we do shows at the big events that require Union help, sometimes we just go to the Big Box down the street and purchase folding tables and carry them in the front door when they are at lunch. I’m just saying. Anyway just had to say what great, well-written articles from all four of you. Shira …. Does the Erie Hotel serve Ice Cream? I cannot get Kathy to stock up on that. But when she does it seems to mysteriously disappear quickly. rich battles Brian, I am sitting here at home base, feet up with cup of coffee, reading April edition of Backroads. I do believe, Sir, your writing and command of the motorcycle industry have gotten better with time. Wolfgang von smythe smythe Dear Backroads, I have been a subscriber to your magazine since August of 2014 and absolutely love it. In the interest of full disclosure I must tell you that I haven’t ridden a bike since the late 60s. However, I have a Corvette that I drive with the same passion that you display for your bikes. The reason I enjoy your magazine so much is that a very large percentage of the trips and locales written about can also be enjoyed by those of us not traveling on two wheels. Which brings me to the reason for this email. I was wondering if you had some sort of outline or overview of the contents of past columns. I quite often find myself
BACKROADS • MAY 2018 perusing back issues looking for inspiration for a day trip, weekend adventure or extended trip. Sometimes I’m looking for a “Great All American Diner Run” where I can enjoy lunch, or an “Inside Scoop” on where I can get a great ice cream. It would be great to have access to an on-line catalog that one could use for researching past articles and columns. Keep up the great work, you bring much joy to many a reader. frank J. matullo • stanhope, nJ Frank, Excellent –the cover does say Travel & Adventure – I think the Corvette fits that description accurately! We are not too far from you so you might have heard this very conversation this past weekend. Although the last 6 years are on-line a list of where and when articles could be found would be fantastic. Another project! You can also find many routes (GPS as well) in our Route Vault. www.backroadsusa.com/gpsdownloads.html Hi guys, I’m back from Arizona and booked my Fall Fiesta rooms. Now what’s happening for a Summer Squeeze? Regards, byrd Hey Byrd, Welcome back. We have no plans as of yet. Really haven’t planned out the summer at all. You will be the second to know!
New York City Update Hello Riding Friends, I have good news to report. We had an excellent conference call meeting with Governor Cuomo’s Transportation Team on Friday. Ali Chaudhry, Deputy Secretary for Transportation, and Michael Wojnar, Special Assistant for Transportation, and the Governor’s point person for the NYC congestion pricing proposal, both strongly assured us that they had no intention of charging two wheeled vehicles the same as passenger cars should congestion pric-
Page 9 ing be imposed in NYC. While we couldn’t extract an absolute commitment to 100% exemption from congestion pricing tolls for scooters and motorcycles, full exemption was presented as a possibility along with the alternate possibility that we would have to pay a “steeply discounted” toll. Of course I’ll continue to advocate strenuously for 100% exemption going forward. The entire NYC congestion pricing proposal has lost momentum in Albany, so it’s quite possible that it won’t even become a part of this budget, due on April 1st. If that’s the case, we can’t afford to relax because congestion pricing will certainly come up again and again in the future. I do feel comfortable celebrating this moment, though. A huge thanks to each of you who sent letters and called your Senators and Congress members. It worked. Yay for us. cheryl stewart • riders against congestion WHatcHatHinkin’ Continue from Page 5 enjoyed, or alternative nighttime activities such as this year’s Backroads Bowling Bash during our Spring Break. We are pretty sure that once your bike is back in its home port you’ll look back at the Rally and wonder how you did all that in just four days. And this brings me to the last and final reason why you should attend a Backroads’ Rally soon and that’s because…… it’s free Yup, for the last 20 years we’ve been bringing all this to any rider who is smart enough to take advantage at absolutely no charge. Of course, you pay for all your own expenses, but as far as the planning, routing and such it’s gratis, on the house, complimentary, a freebie. Why, you ask? Because we feel that many folks buy the motorcycle and don’t use it to its full potential. We want you all to experience life, get out there and explore, take the road less travelled and meet others who are doing the same thing. Our payment is seeing the smiles at the end of the day (hopefully) and the travelling companionships made from our gatherings. So use us – come join one of our Spring Breaks or Fall Fiestas (see the information for this year’s on page 54) before we come to our senses and leave you to your own devices. The more the merrier. You’ll have a Rally Good Time.
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
IN DU STRY INFOBITES THE BACKROADS REPORT We are happy to announce something new from Backroads Motorcycle Tour Magazine with the launching of our new email newsletter “The Backroads Report.” This E-blast, which will be sent out weekly, features motorcycle, travel, adventure and industry news from around the globe in addition to inside and upcoming Backroads news, happenings and events. Just like the magazine it will be fun, light and informative. It is free to all and you can easily subscribe on our website: www.backroadsusa.com. Log on and sign up today!
HAMLIN CYCLES TAKES ON APRILIA Jim Hamlin from Hamlin Cycles, LLC in Bethel, CT has acquired the Aprilia brand from MotoFit in Danbury, CT. Hamlin Cycles has been a Moto Guzzi dealer since November 2014. Both brands are part of the Piaggio Group, so integrating Aprilia into Hamlin Cycles should be seamless since both brands share the same warranty, parts and sales personnel and basic policies. Hamlin has absorbed stock from MotoFit, ranging from 2013-2017 model years. Stop by the shop at 44 Grassy Plain St/Rte. 53, in Bethel CT or visit them online at Hamlincycles.com
HONDA’S RIDE ASSIST COULD CHANGE MOTORCYCLING New patent images give a glimpse of Honda’s self-balancing technology that could be seen as a significant step forward for motorcycling. Although unthinkable until recently, the growth of automated systems such as traction control, stability control and anti-lock braking systems could soon lead to a bike that is virtually impossible to crash. That could be a massive step for motorcycling and its acceptance on a wider scale, as most non-riders would cite the perceived risk as their number one concern. Honda’s Riding Assist system, which adds a computer-controlled steering system between the bars and the front wheel, is the next step. Modern bikes
News from the Inside can already intervene in your application of the throttle and brakes, but to really save us from ourselves they need to be able to override the stupidest of our steering mistakes as well. While the new designs patents, just published on the European Union Intellectual Property Office website, shouldn’t be taken as evidence that the Riding Assist system is going to go into production anytime soon, they provide a fascinating glimpse into one of the most radical projects in motorcycling at the moment.
MOTOVERMONT’S SHEADV VERMONT WOMEN’S TOUR SEPTEMBER 15-17, 2018 Why an all-women’s tour? MotoVermont has seen a sharp rise in requests for women-focused tours so they reached out to Stephanie Terrien of SheADV. Steph’s encouraging demeanor combined with her skills as an instructor and backcountry guide seemed like the perfect fit for this tour. According to Stephanie Terrien, SheADV Co-Founder and Tour Guide, “Many women enjoy the supportive camaraderie and non-competitive vibe of adventuring with other women. We’ve witnessed astounding growth of women in the adventure riding industry in the past few years.” This will be SheADV’s first ride east of the Rocky Mountains! The SheADV Vermont Women’s Tour encompasses three days of riding historic and scenic forest roads, trails, and a few paved roads throughout the bucolic countryside of Vermont. Camp as a group at the Coolidge
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
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State Park nestled within the Green Mountain National Forest and enjoy delicious campfire meals as we discuss the upcoming day’s adventure. The cost of this tour is $750 and includes: Guidance for 3 days, Certified MSF guide/instructor, Group Camping, Open-fire dinner each evening. Dual-Sport Rentals are available. For more information, please visit: www.motovermont.com/she-adv
PORTSMITH NH POLICE ENFORCE MOTORCYCLE NOISE LEVELS Police in Portsmouth, New Hampshire are making efforts to address loud motorcycles this riding season, as Police Commission Chairman Joe Onosko, citing complaints about motorcycle noise, has called for stricter enforcement of noise laws. Police Chief Robert Merner said he is aware of a proposed ordinance currently in a Senate committee that would ban “motorcycle-only checkpoints,” but added that he has ordered decibel reading equipment for his officers to be used citywide. The Portsmouth Herald newspaper reported that Merner said enforcement of noise levels will begin in the spring during motorcycle season. However, a New Hampshire Superior Court has previously ruled that towns cannot impose their own noise limits that are stricter than state law.
ELECTRIC TY-E TRIAL BIKE SPURS YAMAHA MOTOR TO FIRST TRIAL-E CUP ENTRY Yamaha has announced that it has developed the TYE electric trial bike as a concept model. Designed to optimize the unique advantages associated with electrical power, the new TY-E will compete for the first time in the 2018 FIM Trial-E Cup, with scheduled appearances at Auron in France on July 14-15, and at Comblain au Pont in Belgium on July 21-22.
Featuring advanced new technology, the TY-E has come straight from the company’s “Evolving R&D” program, in which Yamaha R&D employees are given the opportunity to work outside conventional frameworks and devote up to 5% of their working hours towards developing innovative new concepts. It is here that Yamaha focused on a model for trials competition, and worked on its development to help overcome typical EV development issues. R&D employees worked to address challenges such as the high output from small-sized and lightweight components, and harnessing high torque output in order to create an easy, responsive, and controllable riding character.
RIDERS RISK PERMANENT HEARING DAMAGE Motorcyclists are at risk of permanently damaging their hearing after just 15 minutes of riding at 62mph, seven minutes at 74mph or three minutes at 87mph, research has found. The study, carried out by Germany’s automobile association, ADAC, has shown that riding a motorbike at 62mph typically generates a wind noise of 95dB, which can permanently damage hearing after a quarter of an hour. At 74mph, the wind noise can be expected to reach 98dB, which will prove harmful after just seven minutes of exposure.
Motorcyclists who regularly ride at highway speeds without earplugs are at risk of Noise Induced Hearing Loss (NIHL), which can occur when exposed to long or repeated sounds 85dB or above. Prolonged exposure could result in tinnitus, a form of permanent ringing in the ears. “It’s the wind noise that can cause permanent hearing loss,” explains Ohio A.I.M. Attorney Ralph Buss, who has represented a client who was ticketed for wearing earplugs. Using earplugs in Ohio while operating a vehicle has been illegal since 1989 and the law, which was enacted largely in response to stereo headphones in cars, doesn’t allow earplugs to be worn by motorcyclists or motorists. That may soon change if ABATE of Ohio has its way, as legislation has been introduced to permit motorcyclists to wear earplugs for hearing protection. HB548 was introduced on March 13 by Representative Riordan McClain (R-Upper Sandusky) and would add motorcycle riders to a short list of mostly emergency personnel who are exempted from the law. Similarly, a law in California allowed only for “custom earplugs,” but was amended in 2004 to allow individuals to wear earplugs that don’t block the sounds of horns or emergency sirens.
BACKROADS accepts press releases for Industry Infobites. Please email text and high-resolution images to editor@backroadsusa.com
NEW YORK MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT VICTIMS The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo, P.C. 199 Main St. • Ste. 901 • White Plains, NY 10601
d by esente as r p e r Be oh ne wh o e m ver so g for o n i d i r been ar s.
25 ye
If you’ve been involved in a motorcycle accident, get the knowledgeable, sympathetic and forceful legal representation you are entitled to. No fee unless a recovery is made. Testimonials available.
The One to Call in New York State Call the Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. for a free consult and evaluation of your case.
(914) 421-0905 www.whiteplainsaccidentlawyer.com
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A museum of tHe Weird 412 E 6TH ST, AUSTIN, TX 78701 (512) 476-5493 • www.museumoftheweird.com Austin, Texas is known for a lot of things. It’s great music, restaurants and nightlife. It is home to the largest colony of bats in any American city and it is also home to the Museum of the Weird. Located on the hip venue of Austin’s 6th Street, the Museum of the Weird has a great collection of oddities, rarities and curiosities. Some of the items you will find on display are a Fiji Mermaid, a number of giant foot print cast from Sasquatch sightings around the globe, a two-headed calf, a giant King Kong ready to grab you and upstairs is full of faithfully recreated figures of famous ghouls and monsters from the silver screen as
well as the skull of an ancient Gigantopithecus – an ape that has been extinct for ages – or is it? But the highlight of the Museum of the Weird is what can be found in a locked room at the rear of the museum. In the back, incased in a long block of ice, lay a legend among the fans and lovers of side shows, dime museums and carnies… The Minnesota Ice Man. Everything has a backstory – this one has better than most. Back in the mid-60’s Side Show acts were a big thing, making a resurgence at state fairs, circuses and traveling shows. At that time a barker named Frank D. Hansen was working a show in the mid-west when he was approached by a tall, quiet spoken man who claimed he had something ‘incredible’ to show Hansen if he would agree to meet him at an undisclosed location. He left Hansen a card and a few days later, with his curiosity peeked, Hansen met the man at a farm, not far from the town in which they were performing.
BACKROADS • MAY 2018 Inside the barn the man and helper lifted the lid off a case that contained a block of ice. The block of ice contained something Hansen had never dreamed of. A creature that looked half man and half ape. The man told Hansen that he wanted him to show the world this creature and put it in trust with him. That man is reputed to be actor Jimmy Stewart. Hansen did just that and went on the sideshow circuit with the ice-entombed creature. At this time – late 1968 – the specimen was known as the ‘Siberskoye Creature’. A few years later an aspiring naturalist named Terry Cullen spotted the iceman at the International Livestock Exposition’s annual fair in Chicago and became fascinated with the Siberskoye Creature. He tried in vain to get reputable scientists to come and see but had no luck convincing them that this was something special. Eventually he had success with two of the best-known cryptozoologists on the planet, Ivan T. Sanderson and Bernard Heuvelmans. Both men were mightily impressed and felt that this was no hoax and that, indeed, a creature of some sort was frozen in the ice. This is where Hansen’s story begins to waffle… According to Darren Naish in Scientific American… “Hansen claimed that he was only the temporary ward of the body and that it belonged to an undisclosed owner. At one time Hansen claimed that the body had been discovered floating in a block of ice off the Siberian coast by a Russian seal-hunting vessel. Later, he said that a Japanese whaling ship found the body. Later still, he said that it had been found in a deepfreeze fa-
Page 13 cility in Hong Kong. And later still it was said that the animal had been shot on a hunting trip in the Whiteface Reservoir region of Minnesota. For all these suggestions, the most popular idea about the body’s origin is that it was collected in Vietnam and flown to the United States in a body bag. Heuvelmans connected it with the story of a ‘huge ape’ killed in Danang, Vietnam, in 1966, supposedly close to where Hansen had been stationed during the war.” Eventually word got out that this might indeed be a corpse of some kind and Hansen was told that the authorities were going to move in to take possession of his headline act. That night Hansen disappeared and was not seen for years. After his death, the creature – now known as The Minnesota Ice Man - went up for auction on Ebay and was immediately purchased by a collector from Austin, Texas named Steve Busti and now has a permanent home at the Museum of the Weird in Austin. What do I think it is? Truth is – it was very impressive and, if a fake, it was made in a meticulous fashion. Me personally? I would drill a small hole and fine needle biopsy the iceman – but with many side show oddities the story is sometimes better than what the truth might tell. Regardless the Museum of the Weird is a must see when traveling through Austin on the backroads of Mysterious America. O’Life out! Cameras were not allowed but mine accidental took a shot at the appropriate time.
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
Hanover Powersports Presents
B IG CITY GETAWAY tHe ss united states • tHe baddest sHiP on tHe seas If you have ever ridden around the city of Philadelphia on I-95 you have ridden right past this. You might have even seen it floating there in the river and thought it just another derelict old cruise ship. It is not – not by a long shot. The ship you are seeing was the baddest cruise ship ever to ply the Atlantic. This is the SS United States! She was the dream child of ship builder William Francis Gibbs and costing nearly 80 million dollars when she was built back in 1951. She was the largest ocean liner ever to be constructed entirely in the United States. She was also the fastest for, when she was built, she used more aluminum than any other project in history to that date. Light meant fast and the SS United States broke the trans-Atlantic record by more than 10 hours on its first voyage – and she was only running at 75% the whole way. Amazingly, she still holds the record more than 60 years later! During her speed trials, she sliced through the waves at an astonishing 38.32 knots – 44 miles per hour. Thanks to her reduced weight and powerful engines, the SS United States could go almost as fast in reverse as earlier liners (like the Titanic) could go forward. Designed during the beginning of The Cold War and
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind with WWII a not too distant memory – Gibbs created the United States to be quickly turned into a troop carrier if needed; the SS United States would be able to carry 15,000 troops 10,000 miles without refueling. It stood ready for this double duty for her entire 17-year sailing career. The SSUS was a monster of a ship: 990 feet long – a full 100 feet longer than the Titanic - and if you stood her on end, she’d rise nearly as high as New York’s Chrysler Building. The SS United States was designed to be just wide enough (101 feet) so it could pass through the locks of the Panama Canal with two feet of clearance on either side. The design of the SS United States was so innovative that the details of her construction were kept top-secret. She was the first passenger liner to be built almost entirely in dry-dock – safely out of the public eye. Just a week before her maiden voyage she was opened to the public and over 70,000 curious visitors came to her berth in New York City to take a tour. They say the line stretch for fourteen blocks. Shira should note that for her maiden voyage, the SS United States stocked 7,935 quarts of ice cream. Four U.S. presidents sailed aboard the SS United States, more than any other ship: Harry Truman, Dwight Eisenhower, John Kennedy and a young student named Bill Clinton on his way to Oxford. The A-list of celebrities was impressive too with the
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likes of Marlon Brando, Coco Chanel, Sean Connery, Gary Cooper, Walter Cronkite, Duke Ellington, Judy Garland, Cary Grant, Charlton Heston, Bob Hope, Marilyn Monroe, Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, John Wayne and another Duke - the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Even the Mona Lisa was a passenger to and from France in 1963. But this golden age would not last forever. By the late 1960s, the market for Transatlantic travel by ship had dwindled. The America had been sold in 1964, the Queen Mary had been retired in 1967, and the Queen Elizabeth in 1968; The United States was no longer profitable. While the United States was at Newport News for annual overhaul in 1969, the shipping line decided to withdraw her from service, leaving the ship docked at the port.
Eventually the ship was bought by Turkish interest and was towed to Turkey and then the Ukraine (of all places), wherein she was stripped almost bare. Finally, in 1996 the SS United States was towed home and docked at Pier 89 along the Delaware River in Philadelphia. In November 1997, Edward Cantor purchased the ship for $6 million and two years later, the SS United States Foundation and the SS United States Conservancy succeeded in having the ship placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today the SS United States – a pure part of Americana that needs to be saved – languishes on a dock along Philly’s waterfront. A sad, and redeemable fate for such a great lady and a ship that epitomized the United States! Truthfully – how dare we let this happen! The last owners of the ship, Crystal Cruises, thought to refit the ship and bring her back to active duty. This
Page 15 plan was formally dropped on August 5, 2016, citing too many technical and commercial challenges. Crystal Cruises then made a donation of $350,000 to help with preservation through the end of the year. But this ship, arguably one of the greatest ships ever built and the only one that is named the United States, needs our help. Like the Queen Mary in California the United States could be transformed into a hotel, museum, office space or a great combination of both. We can celebrate her phenomenal history, records and travels and make her a wonderful destination for the waterside town lucky and smart enough to do this. This is the SS United States – she should not meet the same fate as the celebrated QE2 that is now rusting away in Dubai and about to be sold for scrap. This ship is as important to our culture as the Space Shuttle, the Spirit of St. Louis or the Apollo 11 capsule – it is American ingenuity. US blood, sweat and tears. It is our history and the SS United States deserves to be saved. To see how you can help, in any small way, log onto www.ssusc.org.
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN big kev’s bbQ 350 ROYCE RD, SWAN LAKE, NY 12783 • 845-798-7395 • BIGKEVSBBQ.COM Big Twist and the Mellow Fellows do a questioning song called “Too Much Barbeque?” and much like Big Twist – we don’t think there is such a thing. Too much Barbeque….? Dat can’t be right! Along the southern Catskills, not far from where Max Yasgur and family had their now famous farm, you will find some of the best barbeque in the region. All served up from a roadside trailer with a giant smoker hanging off the back. You can’t miss it off of Route 17B, right at Royce Road, in Swan Lake, New York, right behind a nicely crafted wooden sign stating you have arrived at Big Kev’s BBQ! When you get there, there might be a bit of a line, but we found the service very quick and the line moves fast. So belly up to the window where you will find a number of trophies and awards that they have acquired over the years, and order up your meal. Big Kev and company are here during the warmer months (May thru November) Wednesday to Sunday from 11 am till sold out – which is usually round late afternoon 5 or 6ish. Oddly enough, they also do breakfast from Tuesday till Saturday from 5:30 am (yup, we just said that) till 11 am, for you early birds. Since we love a good start in the morning let’s begin with Big Kev’s breakfast, shall we? With the sun rising over the Hudson valley to the east and painting the Catskills with that splendid early morning light you can grab a
tasty places to take your bike
coffee and order one of five offerings. The Big Kev named after the man himself – which is two eggs and a choice of bacon, sausage or brisket on a roll or wrap. If you are really hungry you can upgrade that to all three meats and American or pepperjack cheese. That should get you through till lunchtime. Or, you can just go big time from the get go and order The Bloomer - four (count ‘em) eggs, hash browns and choice of meat and cheese all wrapped up and ready for the defibrillator. The Gas Station, The Old Dude and The Boat all offer a great way to kick off the day as well. Knowing now that Big Kev’s is here in the morning will make for some groovy remote starts for some upcoming Backroads adventures we are sure. Hey, you can use the word groovy so close to the Woodstock site. But, as good as breakfast can get here at Big Kev’s we did ride up for some BBQ and this we found in a very serious and tasty manner! Everything that we ordered here at Big Kev’s was really superb and they offer what we call the BBQ Trinity – pulled pork, beef brisket and chicken – all done in Big Kev’s own style of smoky goodness. Then there are their meaty and savory ribs - yummy!
BACKROADS • MAY 2018 But, be a glutton and just order the sampler – go ahead you deserve it. All the combos come with two sides, which are a choice of coleslaw, baked beans (really excellent baked beans), corn on the cob or corn bread. If that is not enough add on a loaded BBQ potato. What we are talking here is SLOW cooked premium meats over a classic wood fire. What we are talking here is really, really excellent roadside eats! There is a soda machine on site, but we suggest you go for Big Kev’s lemonade, which really hit the spot this sunny Autumn day Our group ordered a bit of everything and the chicken was more condor-like in size and the ribs were meaty and delicious as well. We enjoyed the pulled pork, but we really, really loved the brisket. Needless to say it helped that we have hard bags as lunch for the next day came home with us. Big Kev’s has a few covered picnic tables set up as well as some table games – tic, tac, toe and checkers made out of stone to keep you busy while your food is prepared. There is a convenient portable sink to help clean up after your repast and some clean porta-johns as well. The one thing that could add to a run up to Big Kev’s would be a great ride to Swan Lake to get there. Lucky for you we know this motorcycle mag that will happily send you on a fun and interesting way. So enjoy Big Kev’s and tell them Backroads sent ya.
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Rip & Ride® • BIG KEV’S BBQ 350 ROYCE RD, SWAN LAKE, NY • 845-798-7395 • BIGKEVSBBQ.COM 112 MILE O/W • GPS: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/PRO/DL/KMF118 BEAR MOUNTAIN BRIDGE NORTH ON ROUTE 9W BEAR RIGHT ON RTE. 218 – STORM KING RIGHT AT RTE. 9W NORTH RIGHT AT RTE. 9W BEAR RIGHT AT RIVER ROAD RIGHT AT RTE. 9W –RIDE FOR APPROX. 20 MILES NORTH
LEFT AT OLD POST ROAD (SO WORTH THE SLOG UP 9W) BEAR LEFT ON DASHWOOD RD. BEAR LEFT AT RTE. 213 RIGHT AT RTE. 213 /32 LEFT AT RTE. 213 RIGHT AT COTTEKILL RD. RIGHT AT RTE. 209 IMMEDIATE LEFT AT MILL DAM RD. RIGHT AT RTE. 213 LEFT AT RTE. 28A LEFT AT WATSON HOLLOW RD – PEEKAMOOSE! BEAR RIGHT AT SUNDOWN RD. STRAIGHT AT RTE. 55A RIGHT AT RTE. 55 LEFT AT RTE. 42 STRAIGHT AT WEST BROADWAY IN MONTICELLO STRAIGHT AT RTE. 17B BIG KEV’S 6 MILES DOWN ON RIGHT
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
WE’RE OUTTA HER E
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
borland inn & bruncH House 130 CLINTON ST., MONTGOMERY, NY 12549 845-457-1513 • WWW.THEBORLANDHOUSE.COM A few years back we did an article on the Wallkill River, one of the few rivers in North America that flows to the north and, although considered a tributary of the Hudson River we know that its source is Lake Mohawk in Sparta, New Jersey where it begins its 90-mile meandering to the Rondout Creek – before the flowing big river and back south. The Wallkill is an enjoyable river to follow on a motorcycle, as the roads that mimic its course run at a fun and pleasant pace and along the way the marshy waterway passes through many towns that have long and deep histories dating back to the Revolutionary War – one of these is Montgomery, New York. The town had a few different names before they settled on Montgomery in 1782 - naming the town for Richard Montgomery, a Revolutionary general killed in the Battle of Quebec. The town was also called the ‘The Transportation Hub of the Northeast’ for the number of rail that ran through the region. The town celebrates their namesake with General Montgomery Day, on the Saturday after Labor Day – with an old-fashion town parade, bands, vintage cars and fire trucks. Nowadays Montgomery is a quaint Wallkill River burg that has much to offer riders passing through while exploring the region. We think there is something well worth the ride all by itself and that is the Borland House. Originally built in 1789, it is one of the oldest homes in the region and offers both lodgings and a superb restaurant. The original house saw a Greek Revival addition in the 1830s - constructed by Charles Borland. He and his wife, Isabella Hill Borland, lived there until their death.
The Inn has three large rooms: The Montgomery, the original master bedroom built in the 1800s, offers 12 ft. ceilings, a queen bed and a waterfall shower head in your own private detached bathroom. The Hanlon room is equally as nice and the Isabella is a queen room with private bath (large walk-in shower) on a private floor built entirely in 1789. We found the rooms comfortable, cozy and warm and the great location of the Borland Inn for motorcycle exploration an added bonus. There is something about resting your head in a home that has been around for centuries that we feel appealing and restful. Along with the rooms for the night comes breakfast, and owner/Chef Anna Frumes and family really shine here. The menu changes a bit with the seasons, but it almost all combines Anna’s culinary talents with local farm-to-
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
table offerings. The chef also offers a private cooking class or a private fivecourse tasting menu. There is plenty to choose from – whether you overnight or just ride up for a meal – as the restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday. Starters like buttermilk ricotta donuts, avocado toast with chick peas and poutine can be had. Borland’s poached eggs & creamed leeks are considered to be one of Anna’s best (it sure looked amazing) – but we were very satisfied with the crispy harissa scramble and the seasonal baked French toast. They also pride themselves on the “Build Your Own Grilled Cheese” sandwiches. Who wouldn’t? We spied other offerings at the table near us and the women there agreed it was all scrumptiously superb. It seemed just about everything was – from the ambience, the rooms, the service to the friendliness of the staff and the food itself – all very, very nice. What also excelled was Borland Inn & Brunch House’s coffee – truly outstanding. As coffee snobs we think their coffee is almost worth the ride by itself.
Rip & Ride® BORLAND INN & BRUNCH HOUSE 130 CLINTON ST., MONTGOMERY, NY 12549 845-457-1513 • WWW.THEBORLANDHOUSE.COM APPROX. 40 MILES O/W GPS: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/PRO/DL/1Z70FK
START AT ELIAS COLE RTE. 23 COLESVILLE, NJ LEFT OUT OF DRIVEWAY RTE 23. NORTH RIGHT AT GREENVILLE RD. RIGHT AT MT. SALEM RD. LEFT AT UNIONVILLE RD. / MAIN ST. LEFT AT RTE. 284 RIGHT AT CR 1 BEAR LEFT AT CR 12 BEAR RIGHT AT CR 50 STRAIGHT AT GOLF LINKS RD. RIGHT AT EAST MAIN ST. LEFT AT BALLARD RD. BECOMES BLUMEL RD. BECOMES SCOTCHTOWN RD. RIGHT AT RTE. 17K CROSS BRIDGE IN MONTGOMERY STRAIGHT ON BRIDGE ST. LEFT ON CLINTON TO INN ON LEFT
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We like the French Press so much that we took a to-go cup for our stroll around the town after brunch. Whether you are looking for something a little different for an overnight escape or a place a little different to ride to for a brunch, then the Borland Inn & Brunch House is hard to beat. Rooms run from $99 to $149 and up, with breakfast, depending on dates and, to make it a bit more fun, we will give you an excellent route to bring you up there. Enjoy!
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival ticket to ride • etiQuette for Police traffic stoPs Words: Tom Wright • Images: New Jersey State Police If you’ve been riding any number of years then chances are you may have found yourself enjoying a “spirited” ride when you detect flashing lights up close and personal in your rearview mirrors. It seems a police officer is requesting a roadside chat with you. Besides signaling your intent to comply and locating a safe place to pullover, do you know what to do next? Most car drivers have been educated through several sources on how to conduct ourselves while in an automobile during a police stop. We have been advised to avoid movements that could cause a police officer concern about their safety. We know to get out of the traffic flow and off the highway as far as possible. It is commonly known the driver and passengers should avoid unbuckling the safety belt, reaching into a glove box or worse, under the seat until the officer is at your door and you can inform them you are retrieving your documents. There are other courtesies the driver should extend the officer such as keeping your hands in plain sight on the steering wheel and turning on the interior light if it is nighttime so the officer can more easily be assured you do not pose a threat to them. Those are good practices in your car but what about on your motorcycle? Recently while riding along Interstate 80 in northeastern Pennsylvania I was reflecting on an impromptu roadside conversation I had with a very professional Pennsylvania State Trooper the previous year concerning the posted speed limit. My wife and I were riding two-up on a beautiful clear late summer day when my radar detector alerted me to look at my speedometer. A quick check of my speed led me to believe the officer wanted to have a talk with me. I immediately signaled and pulled over to the shoulder of the highway before he even exited his concealed spot in the center median. I instructed my wife to dismount and proceeded to shut the bike down and then removed my helmet and earplugs. I then almost immediately began fishing through my tank bag for my documents, and dismounted the bike waiting for him to approach us. This all sounds logical. From my perspective I’m parked out in the wide open side of the interstate where the officer certainly has a clear view of my every action. I really didn’t think twice about any protocol. I knew I wasn’t a threat to the officer and surely he could see that too. But when reflecting on my actions that day I realized that from the trooper’s perspective all he saw from behind the windshield of his patrol car, obstructed somewhat by all of the high tech equipment on his dashboard, was the back of a motorcycling rider reaching into and retrieving items from a fairly large bag. It occurred to me that I have never heard or read what procedures a motorcycle rider should follow during a roadside police stop.
lack of generally accePted Procedures? I searched the internet for procedures for motorcyclists to follow during a police stop. I was surprised at the inability to locate any public source documents that addressed the issue. So I asked some friends who are police officers and although I was able to obtain some general police training documents that raised the issue but they did not describe explicit procedures. I expanded my search by sending email inquiries to a few state police agencies known to have jurisdictions with substantial motorcycle populations and began asking questions based on some of the information I had received. This effort only served to further pique my curiosity as some of the responses appeared to conflict with one another. All of the information I received can be considered correct and valid, but it was apparent there isn’t one generally accepted set of guidelines for motorcyclists to follow. In total the information did provide very sensible conduct for riders to follow during a police stop. There were some areas where everyone agreed.
don’t run. I shouldn’t have to remind readers of this magazine but resist the urge to run. One persistent concern I heard expressed by police agencies is the perception that motorcyclists may be tempted to use the more than generous acceleration capability found on many bikes these days. Although many departments have “do not pursue” policies you cannot outrun a radio or helicopter. First and foremost identify a safe spot to pull over and get off the shoulder and out of the traffic as much as possible. This is for both for the officer’s safety and your own. We know about target fixation by car drivers and most of us have seen the videos on reality shows where a police vehicle with all lights flashing is struck by a passing car or truck. Your safety is also of concern to the officer. If you are planning to use your charm and clean driving record, then being parked well out of the traffic flow will lessen the stress of the situation. The officer will feel they are in a safe location and that may give you a few precious more minutes to convince them you are a conscientious rider deserving a warning. Best of luck with that. shut the engine down. This action will further reassure the officer you do not plan to flee once they exit the patrol vehicle. And now is probably a good time to remove your gloves. That action is further assurance you do not plan to leave. The officer usually has a few tasks going on at this point. Many are either checking an in-vehicle data system, calling in the stop, and assessing the relative safety of the location for their wellbeing and yours. If your actions now allow them to do their business without second-guessing your intentions, the initial contact may be less stressful.
differing oPinions The information I received for the next steps resulted in some differing opinions and why both can be correct depending on the situation. remove your helmet… or don’t. It seemed logical for me to remove my helmet so that I could remove my earplugs and clearly hear any instructions given by the officer. I was more than a little surprised to learn that some departments train the officer to instruct the rider to keep the helmet on. The reason for this is the notion that the helmet can be used as a weapon if the rider has an intention to assault the officer. I can understand the rationale for that position. However, as a rider who wears a full-face modular helmet and earplugs, it seems this part of the policy should be applied based on the situation rather than a universal guiding principle. I prefer to be able to hear
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
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Page 22 the instructions more clearly by removing my helmet and earplugs. Also, I find it hard to believe that in the unlikely event I was to swing a Shoei Multitec helmet towards an officer, the movements would not be telegraphed far in advance. But I recognize the officer’s concern that a beanie or half helmet can be swung quickly in an aggressive action against them. I suggest this policy needs to be considered a little further to reach common ground between officer safety and the rider’s ability to respond to instructions. dismount the motorcycle or not. I was also previously unaware that some police policies called for the rider and passenger to remain on the motorcycle until the officer instructs them otherwise. This is one more area where riders need to be educated if the expectation is for them to remain on the motorcycle. And in fact, more than one department or officer noted that they also instruct the rider to remain astride the motorcycle with the kickstand up. The underlying principle is that the officer can be more assured the rider will not make any aggressive moves if the rider is required to maintain balance of the motorcycle. This procedure is another one where a balance between officer safety and rider safety need to be considered and a rider education process undertaken.
MAY 2018 • BACKROADS How to dismounting the motorcycle. There were also conflicting procedures concerning the officer instructing the rider on which side to dismount the motorcycle. One school of thought says to have the rider dismount to the right, away from the flow of traffic. The counter argument to this procedure is that these instructions are in direct opposition to all of the safety and riders training most motorcyclists have received. Asking a rider to perform a roadside maneuver they are not accustomed with may unintentionally introduce the risk of injury. This is another area where the situation and roadside environment should be considered. If traffic flow it is determined to be unsafe for the rider to dismount the motorcycle on the left, as is customary for riders, the officers must be trained on dismounting procedures. The traffic officers must be aware that dismounting a motorcycle on the right is usual for most riders and trained to give the instructions in a manner that will allow a novice motorcyclist to comply safely. some officers remove the key. Another practice I heard from more than one source was the officer may remove the keys from the ignition prior to returning to their patrol vehicle. The justification seems to be the officer can allow themselves to look away from the rider while completing paperwork and be assured the rider isn’t planning to leave the scene while their attention is distracted. not all police officers ride. A police officer may not be familiar with the diversity of riding gear storage. You may have your documents stored in an inside jacket pocket, pants knee pocket, tankbag, windshield bag, or outside jacket pocket. The officer does not know that at this point in the stop. Do not retrieve your documents from a pocket or on-bike storage compartment until you are requested to do so; at that point let them know where your documents are stored prior to reaching into a concealed area to get them. Try to keep in mind throughout the stop that police officers spend the majority of their roadside interactions with motorists other than motorcyclists. An action that is routine for you, the rider may appear unusual or threatening to the officer. You are doing both of you a service by communicating and helping to keep the officer’s perceived threat level minimized. NHTSA is looking at this issue. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has undertaken an initiative to study roadside motorcycle traffic stops. The emphasis of the project will be police officer and motorcycle rider safety. Based on the information that came to light putting this article together a motorcycle rider education and public information campaign will be necessary and should be included in the scope of the final project. Riders need to be aware of the police officer’s concerns and perspective. Conversely, the NHTSA project is an ideal opportunity to educate police officers on motorcycle rider’s unique perspectives. Hopefully, the final product will result in each being aware of the other’s point of view and education on both sides will reach the police and rider communities. The photographs for this article were taken with the assistance of the New Jersey State Police. No motorcycle riders (the author) were actually ticketed during the writing of this article. Thanks to the New Sweden BMW Riders and MCN for allowing this reprint.
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
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coutt’s ice cream 2575 ROUTE 6, HAWLEY, PA • 570-390-4888 • COUTTSICECREAM.COM HOURS: SATURDAY AND SUNDAY NOON TO 5PM (SEASONAL) What do most people think of when Lake Wallenpaupack is mentioned? A lazy day on the water with jet ski or kayak? Perhaps the beautiful scenery surrounding the area? Summertime crowds? Yes, all these things, as well as some pretty nice tarmac to toodle along on your motorcycle. Now you can add one more thing to your list – ice cream. Coutt’s Ice Cream started serving up their homemade ice cream about 8 years ago when the family couldn’t wrap their minds around selling a manufacturer’s blueberry ice cream at the Paupack Blueberry Farm. If they couldn’t give their customers the highest quality ice cream made with fresh, local blueberries, why even bother. So the Coutts’ started churning and opened their own ice cream store where only the best premium ice cream made with local fresh ingredients would be served. In addition to ice cream, they make their own fudge and welcome local growers to sell their produce at their location when available. Since their simple beginnings, the Coutts’ have added quite the assortment of delicious and creative flavors to their menu. Of course you’ll find your vanilla, chocolate and strawberry but add to that dark chocolate orange, nutella, maple bacon and speculoos cookie, to name just a few, and you have one hell of a tough decision when you walk in their door. Should you find that lactose does a number on your belly, they also offer dairy free gelato with a coconut milk base, frozen yogurt and homemade ices. You can have these served up simply in cup or cone, with specialty cones also an option, or doll it all up in a special sundae creation such as Udder Delight: vanilla ice cream over a warm brownie or chocolate chip cookie with hot fudge and chocolate crunchies – wow! Coutt’s is located on Route 6 across from PPL Drive. They have inside and outdoor seating as well as their farm market selections. I’ll serve you up a nice 125-mile loop ride from the Chatterbox Drive-In in Augusta, NJ. They host their bike night on Thursdays and what better way to fill an evening then kicking some tires and eating some ice cream. So saddle up, fill the tank and head out for some awesome homemade ice cream at Coutt’s. You can find the printed Rip & Ride and the GPS download on page 55.
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
MOSKO BACKCOUNTRY 35L PANNIER KIT & STEELCORE LOCKING STRAPS
On our recent ten-day jaunt through the Backroads of Ecuador our bikes were equipped with sets of a very impressive soft saddlebags. We recently reviewed the Mosko Fatty Tool Roll – but were even more impressed with their luggage. The Mosko Backcountry pannier is designed for long-distance adventure touring, hardcore endurostyle riding, and camping from your bike. With bomb-proof construction and heavy-duty materials, these bags can really take a beating and more than once ours did as these bags did a great double duty protecting the bikes from any errant tip-overs. We were very impressed with the quick-mount wedge system, making it easy to take the panniers on/off the bike so you can take them with you at night. The six-side compression straps enable you to expand or compress the volume for different trip lengths and the front beavertail and rear pocket provide plenty of quick-stash spots for things that you need quick access to, like tools, tubes, water or rain gear. The removable internal drybag was most useful and features a separate closure system, and is made from 22 oz PVC with welded seam construction, so your belongings always stay completely dry no matter how much abuse the outer bag takes.
These drybags made it easy to bring clothes and gear inside each night as well while leaving the outer bags mounted. With the unique MOLLE expansion system (large and small sizes available), you can add capacity as needed, and store any your fluids (gas, water, camp fuel) outside the drybag while riding. To help protect your panniers and gear from thieves you can add a set of Steelcore Locking Straps. Mosko’s Steelcore Locking Straps protects your bag from wouldbe thieves. It locks the bag to the bike and locks the rolltop closed with a single strap, providing peace of mind when your bike is unattended for a short period, for example at border crossings or one of Shira’s Ice Cream Stops. Steelcore Locking Straps are made from Steel Encased Webbing – heavy duty webbing wrapped around a braided steel cable – which is significantly harder to clip than steel cable alone. They feature a locking aluminum cam buckle, which can be tightened but not loosened, so you can cinch the strap tight around your bag. As with all security systems, the Locking Strap is intended as a deterrent. A determined thief with the right tools and enough time will eventually get in. The Locking Strap simply makes their job more difficult. This is a truly excellent luggage system for long distance or international touring, retailing for $699. Log onto the Mosko site for more information • moskomoto.com
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oad trips and music just belong together. Like apple pie and ice cream, either alone is fine, but the pairing makes a memorable, comforting combination. Better together, than separately.
Now imagine the road and the music and you on two-wheels, with a real-time, real-life musical soundtrack underscoring your ride. Welcome to Virginia’s “Crooked Road,” the ultimate musical road trip. Music— quite literally— accompanies all who journey this 333-mile stretch of Virginia Heritage Highway. As you cross it, listen—you’ll hear the history of American music singing from its hills, hollows and farms—musical tales of lives and struggles as twisty and sharp as the path of its roads. And you’ll learn how today’s country music mega-superstars owe much to this region, acknowledged as the birthplace of modern-day country, bluegrass and mountain music. (Country) Music 101
The industry began here—the first country-music recordings, the first country music stars, the first countrymusic radio show all started along The Crooked Road. And, like a perennial bumper crop nourished by continually fertile soil, its musical tradition thrives still. The sound of music indeed lives in these hills…and valleys...whether in the stripped starkness of western Virginia’s coal towns or the homespun neighborliness of its tiny Blue Ridge Mountain burgs. Prepare for a history lesson unlike any other when riding The Crooked Road. No books, no manuals….just listen. A diner here, a street corner there, the country store up the road, the dance hall down the street…everywhere, people don’t just perform, they jam. The guitar picks the melody, a banjo and fiddle add harmony, then join a dulcimer, a harmonica… all erupting into a riotous, spontaneous, joyous conflagration of sound. Then a moody turn for the next song, when the melody melts to slow, sorrowful and bittersweet. The performers might know each other, but often, they don’t. Here, the music plays hostess duties, introducing guests to each other like at a grand party. Technically, one highway doesn’t comprise The Crooked Road, rather a series of roads link together to form the route. This primarily east-west running corridor lives up to its name
of “crooked,” with tight, technical twisties in some areas and grand, scenic sweepers in others, all on mainly-traffic free two-lane roads. Along the way sights vary from pastoral farms to craggy mountain crests and panoramic, “wow”-producing views. The Blue Ridge Parkway—check. Virginia’s tallest mountain—check. Norman Rockwell-esque towns—check. Under that last category file Rocky Mount, VA (southeast of Roanoke), host to the Crooked Road’s eastern gateway. Lodging and restaurants populate this quaint city that serves as a pleasant starting point for the journey. The Crooked Road tells its story using a variety of multi-dimensional, entertaining methods that begin soon after departing Rocky Mount. First, keep your eyes sharp for the periodic Wayside Exhibits that line the route end to end. These sometime highlight facts about the terrain you see, the places you are, and, most commonly, the music and the music-makers from the surrounding locales. Some even “play” music or interviews when you press their buttons. Other “exhibits” stand large-as-life, such as theatres, dance halls and venues. The first you’ll meet traveling eastward is the Crooked Road display at the Blue Ridge Institute and Museum at Ferrum College, just west of Rocky Mount. Here, a comprehensive exhibit discusses the Crooked Road’s musicians, heritage and unique significance to American cultural history. The museum details how European music emigrated here, set root in this region and, fertilized with hard work and watered with simple joys, grew into the contemporary melodies and harmonies practiced today.
words and images: Pamela Collins
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Moonshine and Music in Floyd
Following this introduction, continue west on Route 40 for a bit then turn right for a ride into a salacious bite of local lore. Fulton County’s notorious, more gossip-worthy claim to fame lies as Moonshine Capital of Virginia, and Shooting Star Road that you’re now riding was a popular “trade” route for local brewers attempting to evade the “revenuers.” Traveling it north into the mountains you can experience their same challenges, trying not to fly off the narrow zig-zig of road into the deep-lying gullies lining every turn. For those of us with legal cargo, we can scrub some speed and enjoy the curvy ride over this mountain road that leads toward Floyd, VA. Welcome to one of the major stops on the Crooked Road, and if at all possible, schedule your ride to stop in Floyd on a Friday night. Then listen… the music attracts like the Pied Piper, sounding from all directions. From the Floyd General Store, where folks pack the floor like countrified sardines in a dance hall can. Hear it from that downtown corner, where a harmonica and guitar player just joined a fiddler. It sounds from the park, where another group just started jamming together on the classic Cotton-Eyed Joe. Martha and her Vandellas would definitely approve of the “dancing in the streets” going on in this mountain town Friday nights. From Floyd, return to the Crooked Road via Route 8, a just lovely stretch of curvy blacktop gracefully snaking back over the Blue Ridge Parkway, down to a beautiful valley bounded by forested hills and emerald fields. Heading west again on Route 58 your motorcycle will enjoy some energetic twisties that lead you to the locally-famous “Lover’s Leap” overlook, offering sweeping views of the valley some 3,800 feet below. Soon you’ll cross the Blue Ridge Parkway again near Meadows of Dan, and ride into Hillsville, home to various lodging choices and not far from Floyd (about 26 miles via Route 221), convenient for taking in those previously mentioned Friday night festivities.
Music in them Hills
Traveling west from Hillsville, make for picturesque Galax, the “World Capital of Old-Time Mountain Music”. In true Americana-style, flags sway from the light poles lining the main route as if two-stepping to the fiddle music for which Galax is famous. On Grayson Street resides the neon-lit Rex Theater, still introducing local musicians to new audiences every Friday night. Galax also hosts the annual Old Fiddler’s Convention every year, a competitive tradition that began in 1935. Return to traveling westward on Route 58. Now the Crooked Road winds through southernmost Virginia, skimming the border shared with North Carolina. The ups and downs, rights and lefts here give credence to this musical road’s name, sometimes soaring, sometimes dropping, always entertaining and smile-induc-
BACKROADS • MAY 2018 ing…like a favorite bluegrass song. Going this direction you pass through Grayson County, passing five of Virginia’s highest mountains on twisty Route 58, including Mount Rogers, the highest at over 5,700 feet tall. From here you begin a fun trek down into a cooling shaded valley where the road mimics the tight turns of some gurgling creeks. Route 58 leads to Interstate 81 for just a few miles and from there take the exit for Abingdon, a larger though genteel town along The Crooked Road offering a variety of lodging options. Make sure to visit the city’s Historic District, its picturesque parks, the stately Martha Washington Hotel & Spa and maybe take in a show at the Barter Theater. Its owner charged 40 cents or “the equivalent amount in produce” to see live entertainment when it opened in 1933, begetting its name The Barter Theater. Now this handsome landmark entertains upwards of 160,000 people each year, though vegetables won’t get you in the door anymore. Another “don’t miss” stop near Abingdon is Heartwood, just a few short miles south on Interstate 81. This beautiful new facility is billed as “Southwest Virginia’s Artisan Gateway,” and offers locally handcrafted items, foods and wines for purchase, as well as its own restaurant featuring locallysourced foods. Virginia’s Crooked Road history, music and instruments receive their own dedicated, detailed exhibit here.
The Birthplace
The Highway’s next stop is Bristol…and depending where you stand you’ll find yourself either in Virginia or Tennessee, for it straddles those borders. Most experts admit that commercial country music began here and this city proudly wears the title of “Birthplace of County Music.” The story’s short version goes that in 1927 a Victor Talking Machine Company representative set up a portable studio on State Street, recording 27 songs by 19 different acts, including the Carter Family and Jimmie Rodgers. Those records stoked the flames and popularity of this home-grown music, which led to more recordings and even a national radio show. None other than Johnny Cash (who married into the legendary
Page 27 Carter family) called the Bristol Sessions the “single most important event in the history of country music.” These sessions unleashed the music from its country and mountain borders and played it for the world. The Birthplace of Country Music Alliance in Bristol, a museum, details the white-lightening-like growth of the music genre as well as the lives of some of its earliest performers.
Music in the Valley
Return to Route 58 West, enjoying the rolling slideshow of picturesque scenes painting its corners. And, if it’s Saturday night, follow your ears. Listen for the fiddlin’, the picking and the clogging that punctuate this pretty green valley, for the sound and spirit here at the Carter Family Fold will out-roar any motorcycle exhaust. Prepare yourself, for inside this rustic music theater bellows the sounds of simple joys...only acoustic instruments allowed. Babies in strollers, grannies with walkers, whether wearing the latest in leather-tooled cowboy boots or just-in-fromthe-field dungarees the dress code is simple…wear your smile. The theater sits as part of the larger Carter Family Memorial Music Center, established to honor and preserve the music of the original Carter Family
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who recorded those 1927 Bristol Sessions. The Carter Family Museum (originally A.P. Carter’s former general store) documents the history of the “first family of country music.” A.P. Carter, wife Sara, and her cousin Maybelle lived here at Clinch Mountain’s foot in Poor Valley. Though they seemed like simple folk, their musical skills earned them enduring recognition. Maybelle’s prowess with guitar and autoharp (when women weren’t playing such instruments) garnered her place in the International Guitar Hall of Fame (next to the likes of Jimi Hendrix, Eric Clapton and Slash); while A.P.’s lyrical storytelling and haunting melodies secured his spot among greatest country and bluegrass composers of all time. The trio recorded for decades and their legacy continued with daughter June Carter Cash and her husband Johnny Cash. Today, their children Roseanne and John, Jr. still return to “the Fold” to perform. Westward travel on Route 58 soon turns northward onto Routes 23, 83 and 80 as The Crooked Road fishhooks upward. The landscape loses it pastoral lushness as it changes to grayer crags and mountainsides. This is western Virginia coal country now, scrappy but resilient, stubborn as the rock from which it’s hewn. Music from here reflects this harshness but sings of hope, a necessary combination. The Ralph Stanley Museum and Traditional Mountain Music Center in Clintwood warrants a side trip. The three-time Grammy Award winning artist is lauded for his contribution to performing and preserving traditional Southwest Virginia “mountain music.” He earned his largest audience from the movie “Oh Brother, Where Art Thou,” that featured his music. The Crooked Road ends, befittingly, after about a 15-mile section of narrow, winding, crooked twisties that take you to Breaks Interstate State Park, called the “Grand Canyon of the South.” Located at the Virginia-Kentucky border, it boasts a five-mile long canyon that plunges over 1650 feet. “The Crooked Road.” From the moment it seductively sang its siren’s call destiny intervened, for what self-respecting motorcyclist could ignore a name that’s music to our ears? Turns out, the Crooked Road gives riders plenty of entertainment…musical and otherwise…from the ribbons of its twisty tarmac and its asphalt-paved, fiddle-tinged, real-life music and history lesson about America’s harmonious heritage.
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For more information: The Crooked Road Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail www.thecrookedroad.org Comprehensive website detailing the history of the Crooked Road, with maps and other information about the ride. Traveling East to West on The Crooked Road Blue Ridge Institute & Farm Museum at Ferrum College www.blueridgeinstitute.org • 540 365-4416 In and Around Floyd Floyd Country Store www.floydcountrystore.com • 540 745/4563 Hotel Floyd www.hotelfloyd.com • 540 745/6080 County Sales Boasting the world’s largest selection of Old-Time and Bluegrass Music…since 1965 www.countysales.com • 540 745/2007 The Rex Theater www.visitgalax.com/rextheater 276 238/8130
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Heartwood Southwest Virginia’s Artisan Gateway www.heartwoodvirginia.org Carter Family Fold Located near Hiltons Virginia www.carterfamilyfold.org • 276 386/6054 Birthplace of Country Music Alliance - Bristol www.birthplaceofcountrymusic.org 276 645/0111 Ralph Stanley Museum and Traditional Mountain Music Center Clintwood, VA www.ralphstanleymuseum.com 276 926/5591
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
EVENT AND RALLY NEWS BOB “THE GEEZER BIKER” AGNES CELEBRATES 80TH BIRTHDAY WITH 8 BALL RIDE™ 14,000 MILE MOTORCYCLE JOURNEY RAISES FUNDS FOR FISHER HOUSE FOUNDATION For Bob “The Geezer Biker” Agnes, the journey of a lifetime begins on May 24th at the Hudson Valley Harley Davidson dealer in Nanuet, NY. On that day, he kicks off a cross country journey that will take him to 48 states and 48 state capitals in just 48 days. It’s all part of the 8 Ball Ride for veterans, an ambitious sea-toshining-sea motorcycle ride designed to raise awareness of and money for Fisher House Foundation. “Our veterans have given so much to this great country of ours,” Agnes said. “So many of them come home from duty injured or suffering from conditions that need ongoing medical care. For my 80th birthday, I wanted to acknowledge their significant sacrifices. The 8 Ball Ride is my way of saying ‘thank you’ and giving something back.” The ride benefits the Fisher House Foundation, an organization that provides comfortable accommodations for veterans undergoing longterm medical treatment and their families, at no cost. Fisher House homes are located near military bases and VA hospitals around the world. Since its inception, this program has saved military and veterans’ families an estimated $407 million in out-of-pocket costs for lodging and transportation. A kickoff, meet and greet event takes place May 24th at 10:00 AM at Hud-
son Valley Harley Davidson dealership. Harley Owners Group members will be out in full force to meet the Geezer Biker on May 24th. They will be joined by special guests the West Point Buffalo Soldiers MC New York Chapter and Staff Sargent Tim Chambers, known as the Saluting Marine, who travels to Washington DC each Memorial Day with his makeshift memorial – boots, a rifle, flack jacket and Kevlar – to pay tribute to our former POWs and MIAs. He holds a salute for hours as thousands of bikers pass by. After the kick-off meet and greet, Sgt. Chambers, bikers representing HOG the West Point Buffalo Soldiers MC New York Chapter and other motorcycle clubs will accompany the Geezer Biker as he begins his 250-mile ride down to Washington, DC where the 8 Ball Ride officially commences on May 28th. The Geezer Biker also hopes to inspire seniors everywhere to continue their favorite strenuous physical activity, for as long as they can. His advice is simple: “Get up in the morning, get out of bed and just go, even when it hurts.” The 8 Ball Ride will be a true test of that advice. The grueling, 14,000+ mile journey crisscrosses the U.S. with a daily schedule that would challenge even the fittest young adult. Bikers are welcome to join the Geezer Biker along the way for any portion of the ride or attend any of the 48 Harley Davidson dealership meet and greet events. Agnes will also stop at each of the 48 states’ capitals before he leaves the state. He plans to complete the journey on July 14th in Albany, New York, for his 80th birthday celebration. You can follow the Geezer Biker on Instagram @thegeezerbiker, like the 8 Ball Ride on Facebook or experience the journey in real time on an interactive map on the 8 Ball Ride website. 100% of the money raised will be donated directly to Fisher House Foundation. Donations can be easily made online by going to www.8ballride.com.
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SMOKY MOUNTAIN SCENERY AND ROADS DRAW THOUSANDS TO THE AREA FOR ANNUAL SMOKY MOUNTAIN CRAWL The Smoky Mountains of Tennessee boast some of the best motorcycling roads in the country like the infamous “Tail of the Dragon” with 318 exhilarating curves in 11 miles or the stunning panoramic views along the Foothills Parkway and the Cherohala Skyway. Nestled at the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Townsend, Tennessee has become a popular destination for motorcyclists looking to visit these roads. While the Smokies draw groups of all kinds, some are remarkably unique like the annual Smoky Mountain Crawl, the nation’s largest small-bore event. Set for June 8 through 10 at the Townsend Visitors Center, the Smoky Mountain Crawl expects 1,200 attendees with small bikes like Honda Groms and Kawaski Z125s and scooters like Yamaha Zumas or Ruckuses, just to name a few. The only small-bore event of its size, the Smoky Mountain Crawl sees 80 percent of its attendees come from out-of-state and even has international attendees that visit from countries like Norway, Israel and Canada. The event is quite the party with a full schedule of games, raffles, races and the chance to meet new friends and enthusiasts. It’s completely free to attend and not limited to just small-bore bikes—all bike sizes are welcome. Hosted by MNNTHBX (Man in the Box), a dealer of small-bore parts located just down the road from Townsend in Seymour, Tennessee, founder and owner Greg Hatcher finds the location of the event to be biggest driver for the Crawl’s event participation. The Smoky Mountain Crawl also allows this niche group of riders to meet a thousand other individuals with a passion for small bikes and scooters like themselves. With the event coming up in June, MNNTHBX is currently recruiting sponsors and raffle prizes. The raffle tickets are sold to raise money for charity. Last year, the event raised $25,000 for Hearts and Hands, a nonprofit that raises funds for college scholarships for Townsend residents. For more information on the Smoky Mountain Crawl, visit the Facebook event or www.mnnthbx.com/events/
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MOTOCHIC® DEBUTS MOTO ANGELS CONTEST IN CELEBRATION OF INTERNATIONAL FEMALE RIDE DAY© International Female Ride Day©(IFRD), created in 2006 by Motoress® founder, Vicki Gray, is a global ride day occurring annually on the first Saturday of May. Its mission is “building awareness of women motorcycle riders and promoting those who enjoy the sport…[and] encouraging other women who have not yet explored motorcycling to take up the activity.” MotoChic® founder, Debra Chin, stated, “International Female Ride Day© is an opportunity to share our love for life on two wheels, and to introduce this empowering experience to other women.” This year, International Female Ride Day© is on May 5, 2018, and the Moto Angels Contest will run from April 1, 2018 to May 7, 2018. Whether a woman rides on her own (motorcycle, scooter, three-wheeler, dirt
bike, etc.), enjoys riding as a passenger, or dreams of learning to ride, MotoChic® invites her to tell the world why she is a Moto Angel — someone who is passionate about riding, and gear that is functional and fashionable. The winner will receive a grand prize package of moto goodies worth over $1600. The Moto Angels Contest Grand Prize winner will be announced on May 14, 2018. To view the Grand Prize and entry details, please visit www.motochicgear.com/motoangels.
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EVENT RECAPS MARTIN MOTO – 8TH ANNUAL MODERN CLASSICS SHOW Words and images: Jack Broomall There is no question that the unfortunate timing of an early March nor’easter put a damper on the Eighth Annual Modern Classics Show at Martin Moto in Boyertown, Pa. The Friday, March 2nd storm left hundreds of thousands without power, and fallen trees and closed roads plagued the region. The moto community is, however, a hardy one and despite the weather havoc some 1000+ guests still made their way to the event for both Friday evening’s Kickstart Party and Saturday’s exhibition. Those attendees were richly rewarded with yet another amazing display of motorcycle history that graced the showroom floor at Martin Moto. This year it
wasn’t just the show’s usual 60’s through the ‘90s retrospective. The Modern Classics selection committee had rounded up a collection of 30+ machines that also portrayed the story of motorcycling from the first half of the 20th century. There were almost too many highlights to mention. The oldest machine on show was an unrestored 1905 Reading Standard, perhaps the eldest example of the marque in the world. Racing machines from Indian, HarleyDavidson and Pope helped tell the story of the board track racing craze of
the teens and 1920s. Military bikes from Indian, BSA and others helped define the WWII era. There were half a dozen Indians on site spanning the period from 1914 through 1949. Master artist Makoto Endo busied himself with one of his usual magnificent renderings of, this time, an ultra-rare 1911 Flying Merkel. And so much more. Of course, there was also a diverse collection of the machines that defined the period from 1960 through the 1990s that completed the 100 bike Modern Classics Show.
The Modern Classics is not a judged show but the guests are invited to vote for their favorites in a People’s Choice balloting. This year there were a total of four bikes selected for that honor. They were, in alphabetical order by the exhibitor’s last name: 1983 Honda CX650T Turbo • Mr. Brad Beers, 1911 Flying Merkel • Mr. David Markel, 1923 BMW R32 • Mr. David Markel, 1905 Reading Standard • Mr. Doug Strange Also awarded at The Modern Classics is the coveted Exhibitors’ Choice Trophy. This award is selected by voting of the exhibitors themselves and given to the presenter and his/her machine, judged to best exemplify the spirit of preservation, restoration, and enthusiastic support for the Classic Motor-
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cycle Hobby. This year’s winner of the Exhibitors’ Choice is 1905 Reading Standard shown by Mr. Doug Strange. The team at Martin Moto has already changed gears and is working diligently to put together their popular end-of-season Modern Classics Ride-In Event, scheduled for September 15, 2018. Here’s hoping the weather cooperates a little better for that one!
THE RITES OF WINTER • POTOMAC VINTAGE RIDERS ANNUAL SWAP MEET, YORK, PA The slogan for Potomac Vintage Riders is “Restore. Ride. Repair. Repeat.” I’ve done all four, including repeated trips to their annual swap meet and bike show at the York fairgrounds. Held every January, the swap meet and show is a perfect cure for cabin fever and PMS (parked motorcycle syndrome). It’s one of the largest indoor motorcycle events on the East Coast and draws participants and vendors from all over the Northeast. At just $10, it’s a very economical way to spend a day. The real hot deals start in the parking lot, where trucks and trailers full of bikes are parked with signs on them. Walk around the lot and you may find that unicorn of a vintage Maico or Husky you’ve always wanted is just a phone call and some cash away. My buddy Dan flips bikes before even going inside. I sold my buddy’s R1150RT based on a parking lot contact. In addition to more bikes for sale and the show bikes, inside lurk the other goodies: the parts. You can get Preston Petty plastic fenders and number plates, Lucas electric parts for your vintage British bike, and genuine Hodaka and Ossa parts. I got a pair of Honda dual-sport mirrors for $20 that normally sell for $30 each. I scored a
set of Suzuki SV mirrors and taillight and a dual-sport rear fender, all for $10. No matter what you need, chances are there will be a deal that saves you well over the price of admission. The art of dickering is alive and well there. The show is astounding, featuring more perfectly-restored vintage bikes than you think exist in the universe. I saw two early, immaculate Honda CB-750s for example, but those were just a microcosm of what was there. Plus, there are the people you’ll see: the largest collection of bearded, flannel-shirt-wearing, old men in the country pawing through dusty boxes of motorcycle parts. This year, offroad legend John Penton was there signing autographs. No matter what brings you, get there early, because the hot deals go as fast as the hot bikes. pvr.potomacvintageriders.com ~ Mark Byers
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The
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2018
Hammer Run Words & images Tony Lisanti
he Tri County Sportsman Motorcycle Club based in Port elizabeth, NJ has been around for a while. Based on what I saw on the first weekend in November, they sure do know how to throw a party.
T
The 2017 “Hammer Run” is the 17th round of the AMA Beta Dual Sport Series. The series has 19 events held in 12 different states, beginning in Florida in early March and ending in California in late November. The New Jersey round is at the tail end of the schedule. For us Northeast Riders there are events in Ohio, Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Virginia. The Hammer Run in South Jersey has become one of the most popular. Many of the events are truly all inclusive to the dirt, dual sport and adventure riders. Spying a flyer for the event I noticed that Adventure Bikes are actually crossed out on the registration form. From my understanding, it’s not that adventure riders are not welcome, it’s more that the ride is better suited to woods machines.
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The Tri County Sportsman Motorcycle Club was first formed in 1964 when a group of like-minded riders who raced together decided to get serious about enduro riding. Several generations of ‘Team Hammer’ have dominated East Coast Enduro Association events. Some familiar names such as Tomlin, Lafferty, and Bennett have made their mark on East coast Enduros. The Club promotes several large events each year including the Greenbriar Enduro, a Hare Scramble and a Dual Sport ride. Proceeds from these events are donated to the local charities. The New Jersey round was held on the weekend of November 5th & 6th. The weather leading up to the event was fairly mild although some rain fell
early in the week. By the time Friday came, the weather was indeed mild, almost Indian Summer like and dry. I loaded up my KTM 350 and with tools and gear checked, headed south on the Garden State. Even with Friday afternoon rush hour traffic by the Tappan Zee, I made it to the event in under 3 hours. It was a good thing too, as it was recommended to go the night before to register since this was a popular event. Once in Port
Elizabeth I found the event site and set out to register. By early evening there were already more than a hundred people on line an hour before registration opened. By the time the line began to move, the number had doubled. I had planned to meet a few people that I rode with, so the line a was good place to be. I found everyone friendly and in good spirits. Time passed quickly as I made my way to the registration window. Since this was an AMA National event, there were plenty of vendors on hand with all types of off-road parts and accessories. A local dealer had Beta off-road machines on display. But with all due respect to the Italian brand, the overall hue seemed to be KTM orange. As I made my way back to the parking field, many had set up camp for the weekend. It was a sight to behold. The field was filled from end to end with cars, trucks, RVs and trailers. Sure there were others intermixed, but KTM was by far the dominant machine. The next morning, I met up with a few riding friends and the parking area was buzzing with activity. Machines were being unloaded and prepped and riding gear was hanging everywhere. Many riders headed to the start area early. I managed to get out with a small group about 9:30. Passing through the start, one of the many volunteers recorded my number.
Page 36 Small detail, but important. They want to know how many people are out so the sweepers know who to look for in case of an emergency. Once off, I was deep in the woods on single-track trails. Most were wide enough to fit the bars through but a few were a bit tight. Most of the trails were 1st and 2nd gear and it was nonstop sweepers between the trees. After a few miles marked trails would lead out onto a main road. Riding on the road was allowed and the entry to the next trail section was staffed with a number of volunteers. After a good two hours of absolutely perfect tight woods trails, we ended up at the first gas stop, which was about 30 miles or
so into the ride. The gas stop was a sight. Here we are in the middle of a village with over a hundred dirt bikes lined up along Main Street. The line moved methodically, and after topping off, our group was back on the trails. After abut another 15 miles or so we found ourselves in a small clearing at the back end of another town where water and snacks were being served. This impromptu lunch stop offered a much needed rest and time to share a few laughs with fellow riders.
MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
BACKROADS • MAY 2018 After about a half hour or so we were back in gear on the trails again. The afternoon section was a bit more challenging with some high speed whoops, sand pits and much tighter single track woods. While blasting down a section of unpaved road, I noticed the back end of the bike feeling bit mushy. I stopped at the next trail entry and, as luck would have it, I had a flat. One of the club’s many volunteers tipped me off that we were only a few miles from the next gas stop and I could ride along the road to get there. From the gas station it would only be about 3-4 miles back to the staging area. This being my lucky day, one of the local shops had a van equipped with tools, tires and tubes. It was a bit pricey, but it was either pay or go home early. In no time I was back on the bike and headed back to the trail where I left off. A quick look at my odometer reveled I should be close to the end of the 80+ mile run. All of a sudden I came across a familiar sign leading to the staging area. I rolled back to my truck and everyone was in party mode. 80 something miles on the trails leaves you stiff and sore but we couldn’t have been happier. With the bike loaded and back in civilian clothes, we had dinner provided by the local firehouse, plenty of beer and music to go around and generally a fun time with several hundred dirt bike friends. The Hammer Run is an event that will be on my calendar for next year. I can’t say enough about the Tri County Sportsman Motorcycle Club. This was a really great event. It takes over 100 volunteers to mark the trails, sweep the routes, and get everyone through the gas stops, and put on one big party at the end of the day. Truth be told, I did not ride the second day, but I am looking forward to it next year. A big thank you to the Tri County Sportsman Motorcycle Club President Eldin Polhamus for taking a few minutes to chat with me on Friday night. I got a sense of what a herculean task it is to get this event organized each year. It takes the entire club to pull this event off and they require a massive amount of cooperation from local municipalities, environmental groups and State and local agencies. Thank you to the AMA and to the hundreds of volunteers who make this event great. 2018 Hammer Run sponsored by the Tri-County Sportsmen MC • Nov. 3-4 Sign in: 34 Frankles Lane, Port elizabeth, NJ • N39.3128 / W 74.9721 Details: www.teamhammer.org, email hammerhead@teamhammer.org or call 1-855-870-6698 / 856-265-3911 • CASH ONLY DAY OF eVeNT (Pre-reg eNCOURAGeD) For the full Beta AMA National Dual Sport Series 2018 schedule, visit the AMA site: www.americanmotorcyclist.com/Riding/Dual-Sport-Riding
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NEW FOR 2018 FROM HARLEY-DAVIDSON AND ROYAL ENFIELD IRON 1200 & FORTY-EIGHT SPECIAL SPORTSTERS ROLL OUT OF MILWAUKEE Harley-Davidson adds to the long legacy of its Sportster motorcycle line with the introduction of the Iron 1200 and Forty-Eight Special models. The latest in a line of 100 high-impact motorcycles the company plans to introduce by 2027, these new high-bar Sportsters combine throw-back styling trends from the custom-bike scene with the solid foundation of the Sportster platform and the performance of the Evolution 1200 V-Twin engine. Since its introduction in 1957, Sportster motorcycles have been repeatedly reimagined, in the hands of both the Motor Company and bike owners: The Sportster as a bobber, a chopper, a scrambler and a café racer; as a hero on flat tracks and drag strips and road-race courses; as an accessible entry-point for firsttime riders, and as a custom-of-one cruiser. New fuel tank graphics distinguish both the Iron 1200 and the Forty-Eight Special, and combine bold color stripes with a formal typeface, color and graphic elements originally popular in the 1970s.
IRON 1200 • $9,999 A 1202cc Evolution 1200 V-Twin engine delivers 36 percent more torque (73.0 ft. lbs. vs. 53.8 ft. lb.) than the 883 Evolution engine that powers the Iron 883. The satin-black Mini Ape and the gloss black speed screen framing the headlamp, fast-back Café Solo Seat adds a West Coast styling influence. A 3.3-gallon Sportster fuel tank features multi-colored striped graphics that wrap around the tank profile. The dark engine finish helps draw the eyes to the bright tank graph-
ics. Fuel tank paint color options include Vivid Black, Twisted Cherry and Billiard White, always contrasting with the Vivid Black speed screen. The entire powertrain has been styled with a popular color: black upper and lower rocker boxes, black exhaust and muffler shields, and black timer, primary and derby covers. Chrome pushrod tubes and tappet covers are the only brightwork and highlight the V-Twin engine shape. The Iron 1200 is finished with all-black 9-Spoke wheels (19-inch front and 16-inch rear diameter) and a solid black belt guard and rear sprocket. The HarleyDavidson Smart Security System and anti-lock braking system (ABS) are factory-installed options for the Iron 1200 model.
FORTY-EIGHT SPECIAL • $11,299 The burly front end of the Forty-Eight Special – a 130mm front tire framed by 49mm forks secured in forged aluminum triple clamps topped with a
BACKROADS • MAY 2018 gloss-black, 7.25-inch high Tallboy handlebar. That 2.2-gallon “peanut” Sportster fuel tank features rows of retro, horizontal stripes framing a simple Harley-Davidson text logo. The fuel tank is available in three color options: Vivid Black, Wicked Red, and Billiard White. The Evolution 1200 engine features a black top end and an expanse of chrome below, including chrome primary, inspection and derby covers, and solid chrome muffler and exhaust shields. Chrome lower rocker boxes, pushrod tubes and tappet covers contrast with the black cylinders to highlight the V-Twin engine shape. Michelin Scorcher 31 tires front and rear are mounted on Black Split 9-Spoke Cast Aluminum wheels (16-inch diameter front and rear). The Harley-Davidson Smart Security System and anti-lock braking system (ABS) are factory-installed options for the Forty-Eight Special model.
ROYAL ENFIELD HIMALAYAN MOTORCYCLE IS NOW AVAILABLE IN NORTH AMERICA THE “ADVENTURE” BEGINS AT $4,499 MSRP Royal Enfield is officially announcing the launch of the highly anticipated Himalayan adventure motorcycle in North America. The Himalayan creates a new subcategory within the fast-growing adventure touring motorcycle segment – an accessible, affordable and incredibly fun motorcycle that is equally capable of tackling the challenges of urban commuting as well as exploring off-road. The Himalayan complements Royal Enfield’s current lineup of middleweight motorcycles and will be available at Royal Enfield dealers
across North America with an MSRP of $4,499. The model will be available in two colors, Granite and Snow, and will offer a full range of motorcycle accessories, including aluminum panniers, engine guards, aluminum cross-braced handlebars and billet handlebar weights, with additional accessories available soon. “We are excited to launch the Himalayan motorcycle in North America – simply put, it’s a fun, versatile and non-extreme motorcycle that everyone from experienced riders to new riders will enjoy,” said Rod Copes, president, Royal Enfield North America. “This launch begins a new chapter for Royal Enfield in North America. We are the only motorcycle company focused solely on the middleweight segment, and we believe this space is severely underserved. The Himalayan will join our other motorcycles in providing an experience that is fun, accessible and affordable – back to what motorcycling used to be in the early days. We call this the ‘Return to Pure Motorcycling.’ The Himalayan is the first of several exciting new motorcycle introductions planned in North America this year. Royal Enfield is rapidly becoming the global leader in middleweight motorcycles.” Purpose-built for adventure, the Himalayan is built on a rugged, duplex, split-cradle frame designed and developed by Harris Performance. The overhead camshaft engine forms the base for its new long-stroke LS 410 engine. The engine delivers high torque and usable
Page 39 power at lower RPMs for smooth riding in higher gears at lower speeds, making it easier to climb hills or maneuver through traffic. Modern design and materials translate to increased efficiency and low maintenance. Touring utility is built inherently into the Himalayan. A 4-gallon fuel tank provides a long range of over 250 miles. An ergonomic sync between foot pegs, handlebar and seat height provides a comfortable upright riding posture that is necessary for long rides. An accessible 31.5-inch seat height with lower mass balance ensures ease of planting feet on the ground for complete control. The Royal Enfield Himalayan comes fitted with dual-purpose tires that lend a confident grip and performance across a range of conditions. This is complemented by 9 inches of ground clearance. In addition to complete braking control, the 300 mm front and 240 mm rear disc brakes help to reduce braking effort. Find one at a dealer near you or visit the website for more info: royalenfield.com
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
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We all know the saying – “ride to eat, eat to ride…” So we at Backroads thought, for this season, we would add some international flair to the occasional weeknight dinner run and pick a different country, nation or region to dine for each one. German, Italian, Mongolian, Greek, Brazilian…. Well, you get the picture, right? Most of these weeknight gastronomical romps will be in and around northwest New Jersey (as this is home turf for us), but we will be bouncing around a bit and short notice for these meals will be found on our Facebook page or The Backroads Report (sign up on our website). So stick close and follow us. We’ll try to give a few days notice, but we will be planning around weather and the different eateries. We’ll tell you where and when and all you have to do is have a great ride to the restaurant, a superb meal and a safe ride home. We hope you can join us. Bon Appétit!
POLAR BEARS MAKE LAST RUN TO THE CHATTERBOX The Polar Bear riders emerged for the last time in Augusta, New Jersey on the first weekend of spring for the last stop of this yearly winter tour for the Chatterbox Drive-In – slated to close this fall. While many put their bikes into forced hibernation during the cold season these riders are out roaming about every Sunday in spite of Old Man Winter. As Backroads Central is just a few miles from the Chatterbox we had no excuse this weekend so we dropped by to say hello and see friends we rarely see this time of year. Congrats to all those who rode all winter long and we look forward to seeing where the Polar Bears pick to fill in the empty weekend in Sussex County now that the Chatterbox will be gone.
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
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Culture and Curves in the
Pyrenees
words and image: Pamela Hunt “The Pyrenees are calling!” exclaimed the email I received from Hispania Motorcycle Tours. I had just signed up for this Spanish company’s 12-day “Culture and Curves” tour through the mountains that form the rugged border between Spain and France. Having ridden the Alps, my husband Joe, and I were looking forward to leaning through the twists and turns of another European range while also experiencing the food and culture of the various regions that this tour visits. We weren’t disappointed.
Beginning: Barcelona We arrived in Barcelona, the starting point for this adventure, a few days before riding to make sure any jet-lag haziness dissipated before climbing on the bike. Though still mourning the attack on the pedestrian-friendly Las Ramblas a few weeks earlier, the city was nevertheless filled with the vibrancy for which it is famous. Yellow-and-red-striped Catalan flags—senyeras—as well as the same flag with a white star in a blue triangle, signaling support for Catalan independence—esteladas—hung from windows and balconies throughout the twisting, narrow streets of the Gothic Quarter and along the elegant straightaway of Passeig de Gràcia.
We explored several of architect Antonio Gaudi’s well-known works, including the otherworldly Sagrada Familia, Casa Battlo, and Casa Mila. To get our two-wheeled fix, we visited the Museo Moto, tucked in an alley between Las Ramblas and the El Born neighborhood. This privately owned collection featured more than 70 motorcycles, ranging from Bultaco and BMW to Ducati and Moto Guzzi. Joe took advantage of a virtual reality setup to ride a dirt bike down a single-track path, all without leaving the building. Unfortunately, the museum has since closed its Barcelona location, but the larger site in Lleida, about two hours from Barcelona, is still open.
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Onward to Boltaña After Hispania Motorcycle Tour’s hearty welcome dinner and sumptuous breakfast spread the next morning, we were ready to start riding. As we set up our BMW 1200 RT, tour leaders, Johannes and Volker, split our group of 10 motorcycles into two groups of five so we could travel through small towns and mountain passes more easily. With a rumble of engines, we were off, almost immediately taking a ramp onto the highway. With the steady traffic enveloping us, we didn’t have much of a chance to look around until we were outside the city proper and into the arid Catalonia countryside. Fields of red soil and sparse vegetation lined the road to our first stop: the mountaintop monastery of Montserrat.
MAY 2018 • BACKROADS starting with a Roman temple to Venus and leading to the building of the original Christian monastery here in 1025. After a short break, we rode back down the serpentine access road and followed Volker through the sweeping curves leading through the Catalonian countryside. We were just south of the Pyrenees, their distant peaks visible to the north. After a long day’s ride, we settled into a luxury hotel located in a former monastery in Boltaña, a small town in the Huesca province of Aragon. Our first dinner on the road featured an unexpected dessert: cake to celebrate the 74th birthday of one of our fellow riders.
Pamplona
The jagged toothlike peaks, which give the mountain its name, play backdrop to the monastery buildings. This site, which contains one of the so-called Black Madonnas, has a long history as an important religious destination,
The next day, as we rode through the long curves and small villages of Aragon, the landscape became a bit greener. A break in Alquézar, considered one of the most beautiful towns in Spain, treated us to the music of church bells tolling as we sipped our coffee. Our lunch stop that day included a guided tour of Loarre Castle, one of the oldest in Spain. Built during the 11th and 12th centuries, it played a vital role in protecting the Christian kingdom of Aragon from the Moors advancing
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
Page 43 from the south. Back on the road again, we pushed on toward our destination for the night: Pamplona. After arriving at our hotel, Johannes led us on a tour through this capital city of Navarre Province, famous for its annual running of the bulls. On some of the narrow stone-paved streets, I could almost hear the clatter of hooves following us. We had now entered the Basque Country, which was evident in signs displaying both Spanish and Basque. Our dinner featured several regional specialties, including fresh anchovies (which made me very happy!) and grilled octopus. When the waiter brought out the steak—called txuleta in Basque—to show us before throwing it on the grill, we were astounded by its Flintstone-esque size. Then he informed us that four people would share one steak—we were relieved!
Further into Basque Country The next day we continued our exploration of the Basque region of Spain, driving a short day to Bilbao. This time, Volker led our group on a tour from our hotel on the banks of the Nervion River to the world-famous Guggenheim Museum. Though this region of Spain was once known for Basque separatist attacks, it is now a popular destination for
visitors, thanks to its long and colorful history and plentiful traditional foods. We sampled numerous pintxos—the small, single-bite snacks, like Spanish tapas—during our dinner that evening as we ate outdoors in the Nueva Plaza in Bilbao’s old quarter, known as Casco Viejo. And our food adventure continued the next day, up the coast in San Sebastian. Joe and I started off with the group, but after a stop in Guernica, the site of the infamous 1937 aerial bombing by the Nazi Luftwaffe, we borrowed Volker’s GPS to drive to San Sebastian ourselves. When we planned our trip, we had decided to do a food tour in San Sebastian, so we needed to arrive earlier to meet our group. After finding the hotel, we walked down to Ondarreta Beach to check out the “Peine del Viento (Wind Comb),” a sculpture built into the foot of Mount Igeldo. This terraced artwork features stylized anchors welded into the rock as well as numerous holes in the floor of the installation, through which
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS wind from the incoming waves—as well as unexpected blasts of sea water— gush through. We strolled along the oceanside toward the old part of Donostia, as this city known in Basque, to our meeting place: Mimo Food Tours in the Hotel Maria Christina. For the next four hours, our guide, Inigo, led our small group to six restaurants, where we devoured Basque treats, from guindillas (local chili peppers), to jamón Ibérico de Bellota (the ham for which this region is famous), to my favorite, antxoas fritas (fried anchovies). We also tried several Basque wines, including txakoli, a white wine that is traditionally poured from on high into the glass to aerate it.
Passes of the Pyrenees The next morning, still full from the food tour, we left San Sebastian and the Basque Country behind as we climbed into the mountains. As we crested passes and followed Volker down what appeared to be goat paths leading through farmers’ fields, it was clear we were no longer in urban civilization. Toffee-colored cows with horns large enough to cause trouble wandered in the roads, unimpressed by our revving engines. Around many bends, instead of traffic jams, we encountered sheep jams. We visited a former monastery on the Spanish side of the border that is today a hostel for pilgrims and hikers taking on the Camino de Santiago, a series of routes that lead to Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St. James are reputed to be buried. Along these routes, small blue signs with
an image of a yellow scallop shell indicate pilgrim-friendly accommodations, such as this hostel. After completing our first day riding up and down mountains, we spent the night in Formigal, a ski resort village. The cold mountain air was invigorating as we suited up the next morning, ready to meet our biggest challenge yet: a set of high passes that feature prominently in the Tour de France. Our first big one was Col d’Aubisque. As we made our way through the hairpin turns leading to the summit, we saw we would have company in the parking lot. Sturdy Alpine horses roamed freely in the hills at the top, and some, curious about our bikes, clopped over to check us out. Col du Tourmalet, at 6,939 feet, the highest paved pass in the French Pyrenees, was our destination for lunch. We ate in the fresh mountain air at the outdoor café, L’Etape, serenaded by the hundreds of sheep and the occasional llama summering on the mountain. The afternoon
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BACKROADS • MAY 2018 brought several more passes, including the Col d’Aspin, which led us to our next night’s accommodation back over the border in Arties, Spain.
A Rest Day in Carcassonne The next day, we headed into the Occitanie region of France. Like the Basque and Catalan languages, Occitan is a regional language, and many signs are written in both Occitan and French. Our itinerary was supposed to take us into the land-locked principality of Andorra, but the cold, misty weather that day brought loads of daytrippers, who clogged the roads leading to the border crossing in their search for tax-free shopping—one of Andorra’s biggest draws.
Page 45 We decided to postpone our visit to this mountainous country until we passed this way again later in the trip. As we continued on to Carcassonne, the medieval city that would be our home for two nights, we drove out of the rain and into a sunny, if not warm, afternoon. We arrived in time to walk the ten minutes from our hotel to the Narbonnaise Gate, the main entrance to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. We took a quick walk around the twisting alleys of this old city, knowing we would have plenty of time the next day to explore.
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On our much-needed rest day, Hispania booked us on a lunch time cruise of the Canal du Midi, a tranquil man-made waterway that connects the French city of Toulouse with the Mediterranean. After disembarking, we walked back through the lower part of the city up to the fortified ramparts. We explored the shops and other buildings in this once-important stronghold. This fortress has been the site trade and defense for centuries, beginning with the Romans. It is most well known for its role as a Cathar stronghold during the Albigensian Crusades in the early 13th century, when the Cathars were driven out of existence. The history of this time is reflected in the red Cathar shield that appears on souvenirs throughout Occitanie.
From French Balcony Roads to Foggy Andorra Feeling rejuvenated and ready to hit the road again, we left Carcassonne the next morning, heading south toward Spain. Though we knew we would be tackling the challenging passes in Andorra, we weren’t expecting the thrill of France’s balcony roads that we would experience first. The D7 trans-
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BACKROADS • MAY 2018 formed from a relatively flat two-lane country road into a narrow ledge carved out of the side of a sheer wall in the Gorges de Galamus. Though we were alone on the road for the most part, an oncoming SUV certainly got our hearts racing as we drifted to the far side of our lane, with only a two-foot curb blocking our fall over the side of the cliff. The weather was misty, just as it was two days earlier, but we decided to see Andorra anyway. First, we had to ride over the pass in Ax-lesTherme. The thick fog cut visibility to just feet, and the mist beaded up on visors. We made it over, only to find the same conditions on the Pas de la Casa, the 7,990-foot pass leading into Andorra. Our group slowly advanced through the switchbacks and traverses of this highest paved pass in the Pyrenees, making sure to keep each other in sight. Finally, we reached the top. As we stopped to catch our breaths, the fog lifted, and the surrounding mountains glowed in the brief sunshine—a sight that was worth the effort. We made our way through Andorra, through a miles-long traffic jam at the border with Spain, and rode on to our last hotel in Peramola. Tired and cold from riding in the less-than-perfect weather that day, we entered our room at the Can Boix resort to find a wonderful welcome treat waiting for us—two delicious macarons.
Back to Barcelona The next day, as we returned to Barcelona, many of us wondered which was more stressful—the passes in the fog or the traffic around this bustling Catalan city. As veterans of trips with several motorcycle touring companies, we enjoyed this Pyrenees excursion with Hispania Motorcycle Tours because it wasn’t just about motorcycling. We learned about and experienced the different cultures of the regions we drove through: Catalonia, Aragon, the Basque Country, and Occitanie. The hotels were comfortable and located perfectly for both motorcycling and walking around. And the riding… the riding was fabulous. The roads were well-maintained, and unlike our experience in the Alps, the traffic was minimal, so we could really enjoy the twists and climbs without inching along behind a campervan. I suspect sometime in the near future we’ll hear the call of the Pyrenees again. Prices for the 12-day Pyrenees Culture and Curves Tour start at $4250 for a single rider on a BMW F700GS. Tour dates this year are Sept. 1-12 and for 2019 are June 15-26 and August 31- Sept. 11. For details and to see the other tours offered by Hispania Tours, visit hispania-tours.com
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS VALENTINO ROSSI LIFE OF A LEGEND From the day he was born into a racing family on February 16, 1979, Rossi was destined for racing greatness. Rossi started his international racing career in 1996, riding for Aprilia in the 125cc class, and won his first World Championship the following year. Rossi’s career would see him go on to win nine Grand Prix World Championships, score 87 wins in 500cc/MotoGP, and many more accolades. This visual biography covers this incredible racer’s journey, his victories, rivalries, and transitions from brand to brand. See his incredible battles against the likes of Max Biaggi, Sete Ginbernau, and Dani Pederosa, and why they inspired three films (Faster, Fastest, Hitting the Apex). Get to know Rossi’s incredible charm and wit, and why he has achieved rock-star status among racing fans. Michael Scott writes brilliantly about people, including the well-reviewed Barry Sheene: Motorcycle Racing’s Jet-set Superstar, as well as biographies of Valentino Rossi and Wayne Rainey. He is a long-time MotoGP correspondent and the editor of the annual Motocourse series. Valentino Rossi is available from Motorbooks for $35.00 US on their website www.quartoknows.com
SHAD PIN SYSTEM TANK BAGS The innovative PIN SYSTEM secures the tank bags to the motorcycle in a safe and easy way. 3-4 of the original gas cap screws are replaced with the discrete ‘pins’, making the installation very simple and in only few minutes. This system was engineered to integrate a light & thin mounting mechanism inside the tank bag instead of on the bike as not to affect the look or lines of the bike. With PIN SYSTEM there is also a range of semi-rigid tank bags, which have been developed with attention to its aesthetics and functionality, full of features to further enhance your riding experience such as charging ports, touch screen phone holders & glove friendly zippers and compatible with over 180 motorcycles – check for frequent updates. For full details and ordering, please visit www.shadusa.com/pages/pin-system.
MAGNIFICENT MOTORCYCLE TRIPS OF THE WORLD: 38 GUIDED TOURS FROM 6 CONTINENTS Colette Coleman has been riding motorcycles for 25 years over four continents. She considers it the best form of transportation on which to explore the globe. So do we, and we have taken to calling her new book motorcycle travel porn. Colette and her husband spent two years motorcycling overland from England to Australia, covering 15 countries and 25,000 miles. This inspired her to write Great Motorcycle Journeys of the World, and they have done an excellent job of putting this all together. Starting with a great foreword by Ted Simon to page after page of outstanding journeys and wonderful photography.
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
Page 49 The tome features spectacular routes from the snowy passes of Patagonia to New England to Australia’s Red Center - Magnificent Motorcycle Trips of the World is the perfect inspiration for your next big motorcycling adventure. This book is about possibilities… and all the featured journeys can be taken as part of a 2-3 week vacation, or linked to form a longer trip. You can choose to take your own bike, hire one on arrival, or pick up a bike as part of an organized tour. Whether you are an experienced overlander looking for a quick adventure fix, or a novice rider seeking inspiration these journeys will open up a whole new world of motorcycling possibilities. Look for the book to be available this month, from Fox Chapel Publishing, for around $20 US from the usual sources.
RIGG GEAR TRAILS END ADVENTURE TANK BAG Discerning dual-sport riders wanted a bag that’s big on features yet takes up a minimal amount of space on their dual sport bike’s tank and won’t get in their way when riding more aggressive terrain. Nelson Rigg’s 36 years of design expertise now presents the Trails End Tank Bag as a solution. This low profile expandable design is made from rugged, water-resistant 1680D UltraMax polyester with coil over zippers and reflective piping. The bag maintains its shape even when empty and has a fully lined interior and additional side pockets for easy access. Narrow enough to not interfere with rapid direction changes and just the right length to avoid making contact with your handlebar’s when turning them lock to lock, the RG-1045 also boasts an expansion zipper allowing the bag to grow from its 12 liter capacity to over 16.5 liters when expanded. The included raincover is also provisioned with an expansion zipper allowing it to grow with the bag and includes a clear lens that allows you to operate your touch sensitive electronics stored inside the map pockets personal electronics storage area. You’ll also find a pass thru port that allows you to connect cables to your personal electronics. Each bag includes a protective bottom material that prevents slipping or marking your tank. The RG-1045 can be easily mounted using quick release buckles and soft ties. All Nelson Rigg Luggage comes with a Lifetime “No Hassle” Warranty. MSRP for the RG-1045 is $99.95 For more information please visit your local dealer or their website at www.nelsonrigg.com or www.rigggear.com.
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Most of our two wheeled adventures take us off the beaten path. On occasion, one must hit the highway in order to make some time or to pass over a geological obstacle such as a river or mountain. If you live in the lower Hudson Valley or in NYC and you wish to cross a river, especially the Hudson River, then an interstate tunnel or bridge will be the only way to go. Perhaps some are unaware that one of the longest bridges and the most expensive highway projects in America is right here between Westchester and Rockland Counties. The new Hudson River crossing that replaced the Tappan Zee Bridge was completed and northbound traffic was permanently moved on to one of the two new spans in August of last year. On that warm sunny day in August I found myself
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crossing into Rockland on the existing Tappan Zee Bridge for the last time. It was fitting that Jeff Beck’s “Freeway Jam” happened to come up on my playlist as I was crossing. That evening northbound traffic was permanently moved onto the northern span of the new bridge. For those unfamiliar with the project, there were three bridges - the nowclosed Tappan Zee, and two new spans; one for northbound traffic and one for southbound traffic. The opening of the north span was marked with fanfare and celebration on August 24th. The Governor of NY drove a 1955 Corvette with Tarrytown resident Armando “Chick” Galella as passenger. Armando is a World War II veteran and Pearl Harbor survivor. He also happened to be the first driver over the Tappan Zee in 1955. The remainder of the day was mixed with rah rah speeches from the Governor, State and local politicians as well as heads of the various unions involved with the massive construction project. The next night northbound traffic was unceremoniously held up and shifted to the new span. I could find no records of the first motorcycle crossing though. Say what you will about Andrew Cuomo and the alleged backroom
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
dealings regarding the naming of the new spans, but he will be forever credited for getting the new bridges built. Crossing the Tappan Zee span has been part of my life. Eventually moving to Rockland from Westchester some 29 years ago, I spent more than a quarter century crossing the span daily to and from work. In rough numbers that’s about 7500 trips each way totaling over 45,000 miles and in the over $30,000 in tolls. That doesn’t count trips made prior to moving to Rockland. I still go over regularly since moving my office to Rockland a few years back, but not every day. When I first moved my commute to the Bronx took place very early in the morning. A certain connection with the Hudson River developed during those days, especially during the summer when I would ride to work. The beauty of the Hudson River was realized after being taken for granted for so many years. I have vivid memories of riding my Honda 650 Hawk down the NYS Thruway at dawn and getting on the Rockland approach to the bridge. The approach has a gentle left hand curve that takes you over the water some 40 feet above the water. In the early morning light, you could see small boats with shad fisherman tending to the nets and cages that
Page 51 were carefully stationed in the water to the south. The Piermont Pier and Palisades provided a back drop and soft rolling hills of lower Westchester on the East shore were dark with only a hint of early morning sun peaking over the top. On occasion a fish would be seen breaching the water and making ripples upon re-entry into the still as glass water. Other times the river would be dark and stormy with waves and white caps lashing the bridge and shore line. During the cold winter months, the river would freeze over encasing the bridge in thick layers of river ice. The Tappan Zee bridge was constructed in the mid 1950’s under the Eisenhower administration when most of our interstates were constructed. This was part of the new National defense strategy as we were embroiled in the Cold War. Modeled after the autobahn in Europe, the Interstate system was a means for commerce, but would also serve as a way to quickly move men and material in case of war. The Tappan Zee was constructed as part of the New York State Thruway system and its placement is somewhat odd. Why would highway engineers place a bridge at the widest point of the river? As it turns out, New York State did not want the Thruway or any of its river crossing to fall under the jurisdiction of the Port Authority of NY/NJ. Any river crossing within 10 miles of NYC by law would be under their jurisdiction. The Tappan Zee is just outside that distance and happens to fall where the Thruway could have been connected to other highways such as I-95. That’s a whole story in itself. As the new bridge began to rise from the water some three years ago, it became clear that this new bridge would not have much character. In essence it looks like a massive highway overpass. The exception is the superstructure consisting of four pairs of diverging fork shaped concrete towers rising 419 feet above the water. The massive towers are laced with white cable ‘stays’ that support the roadway over the main channel. One gets the sense of driving through a humungous
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MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
harp. The new design is fresh and modern but by no means a masterpiece of bridge architecture. The Tappan Zee bridge will leave a legacy of having transformed communities on both sides after its opening. Rockland was transformed from a sleepy farm country into a densely populated suburban community. There are a few not so fond memories of the bridge. Too many hours in mind numbing traffic, high winds, chunks of ice falling in the winter, trucks careening over the edge and dozens of souls who chose to end their lives with a final plunge into the brackish waters of the Hudson below. And so it came to pass on a warm autumn day, Friday October 6, 2017 the bridge would close for good. The occasion was marked with one last token ceremony during the late afternoon when two Navy F18s flew over giving a
CLUB SPOTLIGHT
salute to the old bridge’s service. With the final vehicles crossing the bridge sometime between 9 and 10PM the old Tap was closed forever. At 9:40 that evening I hopped on the bike and recorded the last ride across. Was I the last motorcycle to cross the bridge? Well my recording seems to agree with one made by the Journal News. Until someone can prove otherwise I’m sticking to my claim. At 9:55PM Nyack resident Seth Kestenbaum was strategically parked next to the Thruway. He then drove over with a police escort in his 1929 Ford convertible. All traffic had been shut by then and was slowly moved on to the northern span of the new bridge. The Tappan Zee Bridge then fell silent. The American Flag was removed from atop the span the following week as it transitioned into a demolition site. We will now watch as the old span is slowly dismantled. In time it will be as if it never ~ Tony Lisanti existed. Such is the way of progress.
SKYLANDS BMW RIDERS “The purpose of this organization shall be…to bring about and foster a spirit of unity, comradeship and community service and to hold and promote motorcycle events in such a manner as to reflect credit on the entire motorcycling fraternity.” ~ Bylaws of Skylands BMW Riders Since our formation in 1991, Skylands BMW Riders has been an active “riding” club, always striving to offer a variety of ride opportunities for its diverse and interesting group of members. While we were originally founded as a BMW club we welcome riders of all makes of motorcycle. The club holds at least one organized ride each month between April and September, and we often follow the weekly Polar Bear Club ride schedule from October through March. We stand strongly behind the theme of “ride your own ride”. This means no pressure, no worries about getting left behind if you want to “smell the roses” along the way. The rides typically originate in central- or northwestern NJ, depending on the route and destination. If you’re looking for more, however, virtually every weekend there will be a member planning a ride and looking for riding partners. The club’s group website has a chat board where we discuss these rides (among other topics), and share GPS routes. We also plan weekend trips during the year, and members often ride together to national, regional and local rallies. Other social activities include a summer picnic and annual dinner. The club also supports several local charities with donations and rides. Our members have intimate knowledge of some of the best roads in the tri-state area and beyond. Come join us at a meeting or for a ride, make some new friends, and share your favorite ride with us! We meet on the first Monday of each month at the Warrenside Tavern on Rt. 173 in Bloomsbury, NJ (908479-4513). The meetings begin at 7:30PM but we encourage members and guest to come early for dinner and socializing. Annual dues are $25. Visit our web site at www.skylandsbmwclub.org or follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/skylandsbmWclub or contact Skylands BMW Riders President, Eric Suhr, at delsuhr@optonline.net.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2018
Page 53
KLIM BADLANDS JACKET PROTECTION FROM THE ANDES TO THE AMAZON A do-it-all jacket is the holy grail of motorcycling: we need a protective garment that will keep us warm on chilly days and cool on the hottest and most humid, keep us dry in a torrential, tropical rainstorm, and wellventilated and hydrated in the desert. I just got back from 13 days in Ecuador, a South American country with climates that range from sealevel, equatorial beaches to 14,000-foot Andean mountain passes, to Amazonian rain forests and every microclimate between. It was the perfect torture test of motorcycle garments and the Klim Badlands performed admirably. The Badlands is a textile “adventure” motorcycle jacket made from a combination of materials, including a “guaranteed to keep you dry” GoreTex layer. It has big, heavy-duty zippers at most locations, the majority of which are sealed to keep out rain. And keep out rain it does: we rode through everything from mist to light drizzle to outright pouring rain and the Badlands kept ALL of it out. At higher elevations, a fleece sweatshirt was required to keep me warm. While the Badlands isn’t billed as a warm jacket, you can easily use your own fleece or even electric undergarments to augment the wind and weather protection. I have used both and find the Badlands to work well with either one. The real test of a protective, waterproof jacket is really on the other end of the spectrum, however: will it roast you like a baked potato when the temperatures and humidity climb? When you open up the 10 generous vents, 8 on the front and two on the back, suddenly the Badlands is your personal air conditioner. OK, so it doesn’t cool the air, but if you wear a wicking garment underneath, the Badlands flows enough air to cool you through evaporation – making it an excellent all-year jacket. The Badlands also helps keep you hydrated, with a pocket for a 100 ounce hydration bladder and clever routing for the hose that brings it through the right chest pocket – that way you can zip it away to keep the dirt off between sips. The hydration pack and hose disconnect for easy refills and there is a support strap that keeps the bladder from sagging down into the depths of the back pocket. Beware, however, because at 7.5 pounds, the Badlands has some weight to it and filling that reservoir will add an additional 6.5 pounds to your burden. I kept mine about half full.
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The Badlands will zip to any of the Klim pants. For this trip, I used the Klim Latitude pants and they performed well. The pant-to-jacket zipper is small and one of the niggles I have is that it is hard to get it started, especially when you are sweaty or have on gloves. One of two suggestions I have for Klim is to make the pant-to-jacket zippers easier to start. The other is to affix the (effective and thoughtful) kidney belt in some way so the right side doesn’t get lost in the bottom of the jacket. Those are all the peeves I have, however. Some people find the sleeves long, but in the riding position, they are just fine: on hot days, I’d just keep the wrists open for extra ventilation. The Klim has ample protection, including for your chest, which is the first I’ve found for a textile adventure jacket. The removable back, shoulder, and elbow pads are breathable and ride in easily-accessible mesh pockets for ease of removal for laundering. The jacket has a light, soft lining and can be worn over bare arms, although I found a long-sleeve, wicking shirt to be ideal for cooling. The vents are all accessible from the riding position, so if it starts to rain, you can batten down the hatches quickly and easily. Some people find the Klim gear to be on the pricey side, but you get what you pay for and the Badlands jacket delivers on every count: tough, waterproof, feature-packed, and well-ventilated. It handles the hydration bladder and hose with ease and with nifty design features. It interfaces with their entire line of pants, including the excellent Latitudes, which I wore. If it’s any indication, both of our Ecuador guides wore Klim Badlands jackets and quite a bit of the gear the company rents is from Klim. I have found my new everyday travel jacket: it protected me from the Andes to the Amazon and everywhere between. Priced at $760 from www.klim.com ~ Mark Byers
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Page 54
MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
20th Annual
Fall Fiesta 2018
Endless Mountain Excursion • Sept. 20-24 book early - rooms are limited
Thursday, September 20 Radisson Lackawanna Station Hotel
Fri-Sat, September 21 + 22 Altoona Grand Hotel
Sunday, September 23 Inn at Jim Thorpe
700 Lackawanna Ave, Scranton, PA 570-342-8300 • www.radisson.com/scranton $104 + tax (Backroads Group discount)
1 Sheraton Drive, Altoona, PA 814-946-1631 • altoonagrandhotel.com $119 + tax (Backroads Group discount)
24 Broadway, Jim Thorpe, PA 800-329-2599 • innjt.com $98-$148 + tax (Backroads Group discount)
Originally a French Renaissance-style train station in 1908, the Lackawanna Station has been completely renovated while keeping its history and artistic flair. Get here early and visit the Steamtown National Historic Site, Houdini Museum or just stroll downtown Scranton.
A great two-night stop, complete with indoor pool and fitness center. Saturday you can visit Punxsutawney Phil and ride through the Allegheny Forest, head to Horseshoe Curve and take the funicular or the 194 steps to the overlook, or simply enjoy the beautiful curves and sights this part of Pennsylvania has to offer.
Built in 1849, the Inn at Jim Thorpe is a perfect stop for our last night on the road. Within steps of the front door, there are shops, dining, live music and historic sites to fill your evening. If you arrive early, visit the Old Jail Museum with its eerie dungeon cells and mysterious hand print.
BACKROADS • MAY 2018
Page 55
Rip & Ride® • COUTT’S ICE CREAM 2575 ROUTE 6, HAWLEY, PA • 570-390-4888 • COUTTSICECREAM.COM HOURS: SATURDAY AND SUNDAY NOON TO 5PM (SEASONAL) • GPS DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/PRO/DL/I2FVE9
START: CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN, RTES. 15/206, AUGUSTA, NJ
DIRECTIONS LEFT ONTO US 6
GET ON RTE. 206 SOUTH
TURN LEFT ONTO KIMBELS RD
2.5 MI
70.5 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO TOWPATH ST
3.3 MI
73.8 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO ROWLAND RD
8.3 MI
82.2 MI
DIRECTIONS
DISTANCE TOTAL
DISTANCE TOTAL 0 FT 68.0 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO PRICE RD
0.5 MI
0.5 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO AUGUSTA HILL RD
1.1 MI
1.6 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO CR 519
0.2 MI
1.7 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO CR 626
0.7 MI
2.4 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO GREELEY LAKE RD
4.5 MI
86.8 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO CR 521
2.4 MI
4.9 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO HWY 434
0.7 MI
87.5 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO MT BENEVOLENCE RD 2.7 MI
7.9 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO HWY 434
0.2 MI
87.6 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO OLD FOUNDRY RD
0.4 MI
8.0 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO KNEALING RD
4.8 MI
92.4 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO STILLWATER RD
1.4 MI
9.4 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO MAPLE AVE
3.8 MI
15.6 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO TWIN LAKES RD
0.6 MI
93.0 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO SPRING VALLEY RD
3.6 MI
16.8 MI
BEAR LEFT ONTO TWIN LAKES RD
3.4 MI
96.4 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO MILLBROOK RD
1.9 MI
18.7 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO US 6
4.7 MI
101 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO MILLBROOK RD
5.2 MI
23.9 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO RAYMONDSKILL RD
0.3 MI
101 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO WALPACK RD
2.1 MI
26.1 MI
KEEP LEFT ONTO WALPACK RD N
9.6 MI
36.0 MI
BEAR LEFT ONTO RAYMONDSKILL RD
0.1 MI
102 MI
TURN SHARP LEFT ONTO DINGMANS RD 1.9 MI
37.7 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO RAYMONDSKILL RD
3.7 MI
105 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO PA-2001
3.3 MI
109 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO HWY 739
4.4 MI
113 MI
KEEP RIGHT ONTO DINGMANS RD
3.3 MI
116 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO DINGMANS RD
2.5 MI
119 MI
CROSS DINGMANS BRIDGE - $1.00 TOLL STRAIGHT ONTO HWY 739
1.4 MI
39.1 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO BLOOMING GROVE RD
14.4 MI 53.5 MI 62.8 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO HWY 507
0.5 MI
63.3 MI
TURN LEFT ONTO US 6
3.6 MI
66.9 MI
TURN RIGHT ONTO US 206
2.4 MI
121 MI
COUTT’S ICE CREAM ON THE RIGHT
1.1 MI
68.0 MI
ARRIVE AT CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN
6.9 MI
128 MI
Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920
CROSS CR 390 ONTO GUMBLETOWN RD 9.2 MI
Page 56
MAY 2018 • BACKROADS
UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NYC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894 Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NYC Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • wwwchatterboxdrivein.com Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County H-D Saddle Up Saturday. 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs 10am. Returns to dealership for FRee music and food. Proper attire MUST be worn! BCHD, 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930
MAY 2018 4-6 • International Female Ride Day east Coast hosted by Garden State Girls Chapter of WOW. Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Hope, NJ • www.eventbrite.com/e/international-female-ride-day-east-coast-rally-may-4-6-2018-tickets-42000885780 4-5 • Hermy’s BMW/Triumph Spring Open House. Fri, May 4 - Adventure MC Traveler Sam Manicom 8 Years Around the World Presentation 6-9PM. Please RSVP to suzy@hermys.com • Sat, May 5 Open House with BBQ @ 11, door prizes, in-store specials and more. 69 Centre St, Port Clinton, PA • 610-562-7303 • hermys.com 4-6 • Frontline eurosports Annual Spring Rally. See website for details • www.frontlineeurosports.com or call 540-387-9780 5-6 • 12 • Frontline eurosports hosts the BMW Demo Truck. See website for full details or call 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 12 • Jim Moroney’s Spring Opener. 9am-3pm. Funky jams, groovy vendors, dynomite food, new 2018 models and so much more. 15% off licensed product apparel, aftermarket parts, obsolete and end of season items only. 833 Union Ave, New Windsor, NY • 800-FASTHOG • www.FASTHOG.com 11-13 • 5th Annual Blue Ridge High Pass Boogie to benefit the Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation. Based at Willville Campground, Meadows of Dan, VA. A full weekend of southern VA’s best motorcycle routes both on and off-road. Three tiers of ticketing available. For more information contact info@highpassboogie.com, visit Facebook page for regular updates or order tickets @ eventbrite.com under High Pass Boogie. 10-13 • 33rd Annual NCOM Convention • Mobile, AL. Host hotel: Renaissance Riverview Plaza Hotel. Special rates available, book by 4/19/18. Details and registration online: http://onabike.com/event/2018-ncom-convention 17 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and complimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 17-20 • COG Northeast Spring Fling, Wellsboro, PA. The event fee includes Saturday group dinner buffet. Non-members welcome. Ride route sheets available. Complete details and registration online: www.tinyurl.com/COGSPRINGFLING2018 or call Jason Kaplitz @ 814-615-9138 19 • Gourmet Gallery 2nd Annual Pig Roast. 5pm until late night. All You Can eat roasted pig, pulled pork, sides and more. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten free offerings available. Live band, vendors, prizes and other entertainment. Tickets available at Gourmet Gallery: $30 advance/$35 day of/Under 6 pig out for free. 31 Main St, Blairstown, NJ • 908-362-0051 • Find them on Facebook. 18-20 • Morton's BMW Spring Fling Rally at Natural Bridge, VA. This rally brings together great riding, good food, comfortable accommodations, and wonderful company at the Natural Bridge Hotel and Conference Center. Featuring vendors, scavenger hunt covered bridge ride, door prizes, catered Brats & Brews Friday dinner, catered Saturday buffet dinner and presentation, and more, all at one affordable price. www.mortonsbmw.com/springfling_2018.htm to register or call 540-891-9844. 18-20 • Dover Moto Riding for a Cure • In addition to one of a kind vistas, country road rides, and top notch food and drink options, the area provides convenient rider friendly lodging for your weekend stay. Choose from any of the participating inns, lodges, bed and breakfasts with outstanding service and advice on area rides and attractions. Register and pay at the Inn you are staying. Day and Weekend registration available online as well as a listing of participating lodging and rates: • dovermoto.com
What’s Happening 19-20 • 5th Annual New Sweden 450 sponsored by the New Sweden BMW Riders. 450 miles of great back roads linked together in the tri-state area. The ride will take place over the course of 2 days. Doughnuts and coffee during registration, free camping, Saturday night dinner, prizes, 50/50 drawing, breakfast on Sunday, and a finisher’s patch. Route sheets at starting location. GPS uploads available (Donations accepted). Sign-In: 8:30-10 am Saturday Cycle-Gear, 2070 Rt. 70 (east) Cherry Hill, NJ/ endsite: Sunday PJ Whelihans, 1854, Rt. 70 (east) Cherry Hill, NJ. Pre-reg $55, day of event $60 (credit cards accepted). More info and registration: http://450.nsbmwr.com 20 • Bergen & Hudson Valley Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Scavenger Hunt 2 to benefit the 200 Club of Bergen Co. Sign in: Bergen Harley, 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ 910:15am. $20-rider/$10-passenger. endsite: Hudson Valley Harley, 33 Rte. 304, Nanuet, NY. Full details at bergenharley.com or hdhudsonvalley.com 25-27 • Charter Oak Rally hosted by Connecticut River Valley BMW Riders. Crystal Pond at Camp Nahaco, eastford ‘Quiet Corner, CT. Camping showers, pretty country roads, great food (including our famous Friday nithg chili), door prizes and an excellent reason to get your motorcycle out of the garage. More info: email rally@crvbmw.org • web http://crvbmw.org
JUNE 2018 4-9 • Americade, the largest touring rally in the world, Lake George, NY • For more details and registration online: www.americade.com • 518-798-7888 6-9 • DIrtDaze Adventure Bike Rally, Lake Luzerne, NY • For more details and registration online: www.dirtdazerally.com • 518-798-7888 10 • Warriors Run to benefit our Military, supporting the wounded, the fallen and their families. Sign in 8-9:30am/KSU 10am. American Legion Post 170, 33 W. Passaic St, Rochelle Park, NJ. Scenic ride with after party at ALP with food, entertainment, vendor. $25 rider/$15/passenger/$10 walkin. More info - email Steve: trikeguy22@aol.com 14 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and complimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 9-16 • HeliBars Open House Week during Laconia Bike Week. 20 Industrial Way, Cornish, Me • 9am-5pm daily. Installs, shop tours, product specials. If you’re in Laconia for Bike Week take the short ride to Maine to see where HeliBars are made by American craftsmen and women • www.helibars.com • 800-289-1047 9-17 • 95th Laconia Motorcycle Week, the world’s oldest motorcycle rally, presented by Progressive. Details and registration: LaconiaMCWeek.com • 603-366-2000 18 • Ride to Work Day. www.RideToWork.org 20 • 31st Annual Gooch’s Garlic Run presented by Blue Knights NJIX to benefit Families of Children stricken with Illness. Sign in: 4:30-6:30pm; KSU 6:30p. Rockaway Townsquare Mall, Rt. 80/Mt. Hope Rd, Rockaway, NJ. More info: www.BKNJIX.org 23-24 • Gathering of the Antique Motorcycles celebrating the 70th Anniversary of the Panhead sponsored by Jersey Shore Chapter AMCA - Bacon, Bike and Brew Festival. Allaire Village, 4263 Atlantic Ave, Wall, NJ. 11am-5pm. Free admission to all displaying motorcycles. All bikes 20 years and older welcome. Info: 848-992-4904 • ClaudeRains@JSAMCA.com • www.jsamca.com Jersey Shore AMCA’s Old Fashioned Antique Motorcycle Swap Meet at Village of Allaire, 4265 Atlantic Ave, Farmingdale, NJ. 9am-4pm. For vendor or more information contact Tom Logan 732-458-2150 • www.jsamca.com
JULY 2018 12 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and complimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 12-15 • BMW MOA International Rally, Des Moines, IA • for more details and registration online: bmwmoaf.regfox.com/2018bmwmoarally 14-15 • 42nd Annual Running of the Ramapo 500. Sign in: Veterans Memorial Assoc., 66 Lake Rd east, Congers, NY. endsite: Appalachian RV Campground, Shartlesville, PA. Overnight camping included in registration fee: Pre-reg $45 • Day of $60 cash only. Incl. route, Sat. dinner, awards and prizes, Sun. breakfast, starter pin and finisher patch. GPS upload available for extra fee. ramapomc.org 28 • 21st Annual Kids & Cancer Benefit Motorcycle Run. Sign in: Zippo-Case South Parking Lot, Congress St, Bradford, PA 9-11:45am. $20/pp or 3 raffle tickets for $50. Cruise through the beautiful mountains of scenic northern PA, the Allegheny Natioinal Forest and southern NYS. Proceeds benefit individuals and kids and cancer programs. For more details: www.kidsandcancerbenefiterun.com • 814-368-2764
AUGUST 2018 28-Sept. 1 • 40th Wing Ding, Knoxville, TN • https://wing-ding.org/ 29-Sept. 3 • 115th Anniversary Harley-Davidson Celebration, Milwaukee, WI • www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/milwaukee-115th.html
SEPTEMBER 2018 13 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and complimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 20-24 • 20TH ANNIVERSARY BACKROADS FALL FIESTA. The endless Mountain excursion. Scranton, PA, Altoona, PA and Jim Thorpe, PA will be our homes for four days of Pennsylvania's twisties, histories and mysteries. Details on page 38 or visit www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html