WHAT’S INSIDE
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2024. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibility of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
FREE WHEELIN
Hocus Pocusby Focus
Joladadijoladadijoladadijoladadi Joladadijoladadi-jo-o-ooh
Oooooh-oooooh-ooooohoooooh
Ahhhhh….BOOM!
Hocus Pocus
We all know this infectious song… Okay, the last line was mine because if you lose your focus there might be a little “Hocus Pocus;” and that ain’t good. Yodeling while riding might sound like fun – but it is a good way to lose your focus and that will lead to trouble somewhere down the road.
On the final laps of the Aragon round of MotoGP in late August, Marc Marquez’s team put out the Pit Board sign that said simply, “+4 sec… FOCUS!”
The former world champion, who was well on his way to the top of the podium after 1,043 days of crashes, injuries, and leaving the Honda family for Ducati, was told to FOCUS. To pinpoint his concentration and attention on the last few laps; and not to let his mind drift until after the prosecco was drunk. Reg Pridmore has told us this again and again at CLASS Riding Schools. “Don’t let your mind wander. Don’t start thinking about what you will have for dinner at the lodge. That unfinished work at the office. That cute bird in the pits. Focus! Nothing else matters but where you are …right now.” Reg was right – he is on most things.
pit board at a street corner, or along some long straight, that would be there and simply said ‘Stay Focused!’
The track is tough and concentration on every turn, and section, is so important.
But races are over quickly – well quickly compared to a 300-mile ride on the streets. The streets are far more dangerous than the track could ever be. On the track, there is rarely anything else that is going to be bounding out in front of you. But mostly you only have to focus on one thing on the track – the next turn. That’s really it.
But on the roads, things are much more complex and everyone can let their attention drift – especially when other circumstances begin to intrude on attention.
As road riders it would be good if every now and again there would be a
I have written about being in what we call The Zone for years, and our friend and instructor Ken Condon speaks of this so very often as well; and for good reason; when we are in The Zone nothing else intrudes, and we still take in all the information we need to complete the task before us. In this case, finishing your ride safely.
Recently we have had discussions about leading rides, and responsibility.
I have seen some leaders who just feel the group will follow them – no matter what the pace or circumstances. Sometimes this works out, in spite of the lack of awareness and communication – but sometimes it can lead to some bad Hocus Pocus down the road.
Others (and, I mean me) spend a bit too much time trying to keep my ducks in a row.
Continued on Page 9
BRIAN RATHJEN
WHATCHATHINKIN’
IndIan summer
For those of us who have chosen the northeast portion of this beautiful country to call our home and have devoted a major portion of our lives to riding these invigorating and enticing two-wheeled machines of joy, we are on the cusp of the most horrific time of the year. If you fall into the category of Polar Bear Riders, continue past this page and enjoy your time of year. Those who can escape the dreaded doldrums of hibernation, or at least find some other equally as stimulating activity to pass the white and wintery time, can count themselves blessed. Perhaps you have a project bike upon which to lavish your now-free time usually spent on exploring mystery roads, country lanes and empty byways. Lucky you. But, fear not fellow riders, that most despicable of times is not here yet. We can still bask in the warmth of the waning summer days and remember
Summer,
you
all the wonderful miles that have passed under our tires during the previous six months.
Personally, autumn is my second best time to ride, with spring coming in at the top of the list. They would be equal were it not for the soggy fallen leaves littering the otherwise pristine paths I prefer to travel. Gone are the stifling temperatures and fetid humidity sapping the moisture from my body, replaced by cool, if not chilly, mornings and pleasant, though shorter, riding days. Out comes the heated gear (although it always accompanies me) and extra layers in the saddlebags to cure those late afternoon rides when the sun has set.
old Indian summer
You’re the tear that comes after June-time’s laughter
You see so many dreams that don’t come true Dreams we fashioned when summertime was new
Tony Bennett
You’ll find a number of great ideas for fall adventures in these pages, from New Jersey to New Hampshire. If you can get away mid-week, you can avoid the annoying weekend Leaf Peepers, with their con-
stant stopping for country stores and antique shops. More likely than not, these urban hipsters will be occupying the main roads such as Route 7 and 100, so take advantage and explore those off-the-beaten track alternatives. According to Wikipedia, Indian summer is a period of unseasonably warm, dry weather that sometimes occurs during late-September to mid-November after a killing frost. I’d prefer the latter, as October is such a wonderful month to take some long rides. Recently being in the Northern Mountains region, I can say that the colors should be spectacular this year. I do know that heading north after Labor Day will offer you better choices, and rates, in lodging, no waiting for tables at restaurants and no crowds in the usually summer-packed waterfront villages. Where planning a ride north along the coast would bring a cringe in July, come October it’s a breeze. It’s also a great time to head to the mountains, be it Catskills, Adirondacks, White or Green, before the ski and snowboard crowd take over the lodges. While it’s always exciting to be in Lake George during Americade with thousands of other riders, enjoying the village, lake and fairly empty roads on a quiet October weekend can be an entirely different experience, as is the case further north in New Hampshire. How about spending the day meandering along the fingers of Maine and ending it with a delicious lobster dinner on the water after the sun sets.
Then there’s all the great riding to the south, where late summer temperatures are still lingering and the amazing roads of West Virginia and Virginia are just begging you to run your rubber over them. If you happen to pick a path along the coast, remember that October in northern Virginia is Oyster festival time. Two of my favorite spots to park the bike are Chincoteague, VA during Columbus Day weekend to partake in their Oyster Festival and Colonial Beach, VA for its quiet, laid-back vibe. While the riding is not the greatest along that part of the coast, it could serve as a good starting point to head inland, perhaps toward the quaint town of Wytheville, VA, exploring the waterways and farmlands as you go. From Wytheville, you can retreat north, back through the changing seasons and along some of the finest asphalt you’ll find on the East coast. So don’t fret, for even as the Winter Witch is pointing her broom in our direction, some of the best riding is still to come. Look past that first blast of chill in the air and embrace the warmth of Indian summer, whichever direction you choose to take. ,
Sitting in my writing room, In a house that’s dark and cool,
Typing on this silver box
That’s both my master and my tool, I dream of rides I’ve yet to take.
The hour is late – my normal time
To contemplate the past; To think about the rides I’ve done: How much longer will they last? Perhaps two decades more.
There’s music on – it softly plays
An old blues tune - guitar, I reminisce about my rides, How long, to where, how far. I’ve had some great ones.
I think about the places That I’ve yet to go, The desert roads, Route 66, The Rockies in the snow. So many roads, so little time.
Restless Heart
The atlas, open on the shelf My eyes upon it fall, Sometimes it’s my favorite book, The roads within it call, For therein lie my future rides. Some people call it restless feet, When you feel the need to move. I tend to think it’s something else, When riding is your love. Riding moves your soul.
This is what I think about, When it’s cold and dark outside. I can still my restless feet, But my restless heart must ride. I’ll see you on the road.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON CELEBRATES 1 MILLION RIDERS TRAINED
Harley-Davidson recently announced that it has trained one million riders through its Riding Academy program, cementing its status as the largest rider training program in the United States
“We’re proud to hit one million riders trained – and it’s a significant milestone for the Harley-Davidson Riding Academy. At Harley-Davidson, we’re committed to building ridership and deepening our connection with customers, ultimately reinforcing our goal to be the most desirable motorcycle and lifestyle brand in the world,” said Jochen Zeitz, Chairman, CEO and President, Harley-Davidson.
Launched in 2000 as Rider’s Edge, the program was rebranded in 2013 as Harley-Davidson Riding Academy. Today, Harley-Davidson Riding Academy provides training through a network of more than 225 Harley-Davidson dealer-
ships in 43 U.S. states, making it the largest rider training network in the United States and the only nationwide rider licensing program sponsored by a motorcycle manufacturer.
The majority of Harley-Davidson Riding Academy coaches are dual certified by Riding Academy and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) to ensure they adhere to the highest standards of professionalism, safety, and adult-learning principles. Riding Academy is proud to have more than 1,500 certified coaches in its network.
If you are interested in learning to ride a motorcycle, you can find a Riding Academy location near you at riders.harley-davidson.com.
HARLEYISNOT BUD LIGHT…
Harley-Davidson released a statement renouncing DEI and other controversial company initiatives in the wake of social-media outrage and withering pressure from longtime loyal bikers.
“It is critical to our business that we hire and retain the best talent and that all employees feel welcome,” the statement reads.
“That said, we have not operated a DEI function since April 2024, and we do not have a DEI function today. We do not have hiring quotas and we no longer have supplier diversity spend goals.”
The statement also said Harley-Davidson was reassessing employee training initiatives and sponsorships while refocusing on its most loyal customers.
“As a consumer brand, we will focus exclusively on growing the sport of motorcycling and retaining our loyal riding community, in addition to the support we already provide to first responders, active military, members and veterans.”
BUTOFFICER, I WASN’TSPEEDING –
YOUWERE!
North Yorkshire Police officers took to the roads with a 209bhp BMW M 1000 RR in a bid to promote safer motorcycle riding.
The $40,000+ four-cylinder superbike, that forms a basis for the World Superbike racing machines, and is totally dominating this year with Toprak Razgatlıoğlu riding a stellar season, is on loan to the force and will be used as an engagement tool, to speak with riders and encourage them to use their bikes in a sensible manner.
“We have some stunning scenery in North Yorkshire, and we want everyone who uses the roads this weekend to enjoy their journey but to also get home safely,” a statement read. “Motorcycles make up around 1% of road traffic, but in 2021 accounted for 20% of road fatalities and 12% of road casualties in Great Britain.”
MOTOGP OPENING ROUNDFOR 2025
MotoGP is delighted to announce that the Thai Grand Prix will be the season opener in 2025 and 2026. Chang International Circuit in Buriram will welcome the world’s most exciting sport on provisional dates of the 28th of February to the 2nd of March 2025, making it the first time in more than 25 years that the season
begins in Southeast Asia.
Thailand is a key market for MotoGP, our manufacturers and the sport’s partners, with a passionate fanbase and millions of two-wheeled vehicles on its roads. The first Thai GP took place in 2018 and over the four events held at the venue so far, more than 800,000 fans have poured through the gates in Buriram. Now, they are invited to see history made as the season begins in Thailand for the first time ever.
MSFVIDEOTO HELP DEAF STUDENTS
The Motorcycle Safety Foundation collaborated with RiderCoach Jasmine Bluecreek Clark to produce a free video to help deaf and hard of hearing students and their interpreters better prepare for the hands-on training portion of the MSF Basic RiderCourse. It was also created to improve communication among students, interpreters, and MSF RiderCoaches for the licensing class. This is part of MSF’s efforts to make motorcycle training more accessible to everyone in the community. All students — deaf, hard of hearing, and hearing — receive the same motorcycle training and instruction, but there are words and phrases used in motorcycle class that have no signs in American Sign Language. RiderCoaches also need to communicate with students across the training range and will use MSF signs, which are often different from ASL signs. “For those special words and phrases we use in motorcycle class, I found it helpful to create special signs,” said Bluecreek Clark. “Interpreters can fingerspell these words, but it can be slow. Imagine fingerspelling ‘friction zone’ each time it’s used — and it’s used often. So these special signs have been very helpful.” range, students need to see these signs from farther
away, so MSF
The video includes Bluecreek Clark demonstrating and explaining the MSF signs and going over the special signs that were created to help with communication. Some of these special signs are for phrases like friction zone and gear shift lever, and for explaining the gear shift pattern.
“We’ve been working on putting this video together since June, and it happens to be ready in time for National Deaf Awareness Month,” said Jacqueline Peterson, Vice President of Communications for the MSF. “We hope this is helpful for deaf and hard of hearing students, their interpreters, and the training community at large. We want to make motorcycle training accessible and approachable to anyone looking to learn to ride.”
HISTORYTOBE MADEAT 2024 FIM
INTERNATIONAL SIX-DAYS ENDURO
Team Eric Cleveland Memorial to be first all-women ISDE club team
As 31 total riders will represent the United States at the 98th FIM International Six Days Enduro, which takes place Oct. 14-19 in Galicia, Spain, history will be made in more than one way.
American club Team Eric Cleveland Memorial will be the first club team fully comprised of women riders to compete in the ISDE, headlined by riders Ava Silvestri (GASGAS), Olivia Pugh (KTM) and Jocelyn Barnes (Husqvarna).
“ISDE serves as the pinnacle of international competition when it comes to Enduro racing, and each year the sport’s history books are rewritten,” ISDE Coordinator Michael Jolly said. “Team Eric Cleveland Memorial is primed to make their own mark on the history of the event as the first all-female club team, and we cannot wait to see them compete in Spain this October!” ,
BACKLASH
A Survivor’s Story: Rediscovering the Iron Horse
Michael James Spafford Jr.
While browsing for a track day to attend on my day off, I stumbled upon a call for volunteers with Street Riders, in collaboration with The Bike Experience USA. Eager to give back to the motorcycle community, I signed up without knowing exactly what to expect. The experience turned out to be profoundly moving and far more enriching than I had anticipated. The night before the event, I arrived at New York Safety Track and was greeted by my good friend Ben Barnhart, whom I’d informed about the event. We set up camp, shared a few drinks, and turned in for the night. The next morning marked the beginning of a truly eye-opening experience. Still groggy from the previous night’s revelry, we met Pinny, the event organizer with Street Riders. Our tasks seemed straightforward: hold the bikes, offer encouragement, and assist as needed. Throughout the day, we had the opportunity to meet some of the survivors and hear their stories. The heartache they had endured was overwhelming, yet their determination and positive attitudes were incredibly inspiring.
Our primary focus was assisting motorcycle accident survivors—some with life-changing injuries such as paralysis or amputations—reacquaint themselves with riding. We began with the basics in the lower parking lot: riding a few feet and stopping. Gradually, we progressed to turning, braking, accelerating, and rebuilding confidence on two wheels. The bravery it took for these individuals to return to riding was beyond anything we could have imagined. Kevin from Apex Riding Academy was also present, offering additional training through a Moto GP simulator. This tool provided a fantastic way
to practice skills in a controlled environment, boosting confidence without the risks of actual riding. The simulator proved to be an invaluable asset during the event, aiding in techniques like leaning and throttle control.
Throughout the day, I was honored to hear snippets of the survivors’ stories and felt deeply privileged to work alongside them. One survivor who left a significant impression on me was Tony Berlandi. Tony, who has since become a friend, had previously participated in a survivors’ event that featured only loaner bikes and a simulator with no track time. Since then, he adapted a track bike with push-button shifting and enlisted family members to assist him. Despite the challenges, Tony approached the track with remarkable enthusiasm.
Tony’s journey began in 1998 when a life-changing accident left him paralyzed. After years away from motorcycles, his daughter discovered an event hosted by Street Riders, The Bike Experience USA, and Apex Riding Academy. On June 1, 2024, Pinny, Joe, Kevin, and Mike from The Ride Again Foundation helped him get back on the “iron horse.” It’s safe to say he’s now a track enthusiast, with his family’s unwavering support by his side.
Tony’s story is not just about returning to riding; it’s a testament to resilience and the power of community. His positivity and determination serve as a beacon of inspiration for us all.
To find out more about future events, visit streetridersracing.com
Hey Backroads,
In the August 2007 issue of BACKROADS, you published an article written (Poorly, I might add) by me. I was extolling the joy of discovering an inn called the Gray Ghost. Fast- forward 17 years. Four women, several motorcycles, and many gray hairs later. The new owners of the Gray Ghost are as friendly and accommodating as the originals were. We are still greeted as old friends. Our rooms are as charming as they were back then. And the breakfast conversations are as stimulating as ever. As Yogi Berra said, “It’s Déjà vu all over again”. We are blessed that in this ever-changing world, something stays the same. I am grateful for all of the memories that this place and its people have provided for me. I hope to see you all on the road and share more memories in the future.
Regards, BYRD
Brian and Shira:
It was fun seeing you both in W. Dover - we had a good time riding. Our last dinner was at the 1846 Inn and Tavern and it was the best meal of the trip. It’s always great to see old friends, and make new friends.
Andrew • MachineartMoto
Hey Backroads,
So yesterday I had a very good day. It started off with me going to look at a motorcycle I was considering, that was up in Bangor Pennsylvania. I had some very rare free time, and just the day ahead of me. The weather was great, and my ride to Bangor was all on the backroads, as I deliberately stayed off of the major interstates.
The bike wasn’t what I had hoped (sigh), so with the rest of the day open I simply took roads I wanted, stopped when I wanted… and I felt like I was a teenager again.
That is the feeling of freedom that people talk about when you’re ready to wander and discover. It is wonderful when there’s no pressures to be somewhere, do something, or be someone.
What I’m trying to say is this kind of is what Backroads is about… not taking the fastest route, not taking the most direct path; but experiencing the roads you choose to follow that day.
All the best and see you the backroads, David Stintzcum Free WHeelIn’
Sometimes I will get a bit randy with the throttle, but I am not changing my vector without waiting for the next rider, who should wait for the next and so on…
But on a long day a lot of little Hocus Pocus will happen… and I cannot be responsible for others drop in focus.
A rider misses a turn… and I am sending the group onward with Miss Kamil and doubling back looking for the lost duckling.
I have been told I am like a Helicopter Parent with other riders, and incidents tend to hurt ride leaders that wear the day’s little Hocus Pocuses like a heavy cloak by ride’s end. I am a Dweller – not the best thing to be.
On a recent trip we had lunch issues, gravity issues, fuel issues, and then rain issues – with a very prolonged waiting issue; all of which seem to begin to grind away at my Zone… so much so that minutes later I totally misread a red light, when another turned green, and rode out into a busy intersection. Thankfully I caught my error quickly, and no one got hurt – like me.
We’re human and we can and will make errors – especially when trying to carry too many tasks on a ride.
I have always said that we learn from our errors, but pay for mistakes. Keep fresh. Keep focused. Errors will happen, but stay focused and don’t let a silly error begin to grow – ‘cause they will quickly compound and then you will ride into mistake land, the kingdom of Hocus Pocus. ,
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN
THe ouTPosT
2378 ny-97, Pond eddy, ny 12770
845-672-3733 • theoutpost97.com
The Delaware River.
At nearly 300 miles it is the longest free-flowing and undammed river in the eastern United States. It has been called ‘The Lifeblood of the Northeast,” as it provides drinking water to 17 million people, and half of New York City.
For us riders it provides a natural path for some very scenic roads to follow – one of them being Route 97, which spins for 70 great miles from Port Jervis in the south to Hancock in the north – through the foothills of both the Poconos and the Catskills.
About 14 miles north of Port Jervis, a road that scoots through the famed Hawks Nest and into Sullivan County – one of the best counties to ride in New York State – you will find a VERY motorcycle-friendly place.
Welcome to The Outpost!
We have been aware of The Outpost long before it became The Outpost –but with new owners taking over a few years back the restaurant along the river has just gotten better and better.
As you ride up, they have a neat old bike, all in black and looking very
tasty places to take your bike
road warrior-ish signaling your arrival. (Never has a Gold Wing looked so tough!) Entering The Outpost the full bar looks inviting as does the sitting areas and you gotta love the motorcycle art that is sprinkled throughout the establishment.
During the riding season, they have ample outdoor seating, a bar, and a firepit and it is not unusual to hear some great local talent performing live on their small stage.
They have several overnight accommodations to be had as well – but that we’ll talk about more in another issue.
Today – we are about the food, and the menu is stellar. Hey, when it starts with the comment – Bite Me - we think we’re in the right place.
Appetizers include chicken tenders and quesadillas, fried pickles, soft pretzels, and their awesome wings.
We get very snobby with wings – and The Outpost’s were meaty and perfectly done. We took them dry and sampled a few of their sauces to get an
all-around opinion. They have great wings!
Keeping with the chicken dishes they have a few different bird handhelds for you – the Chicken Motz Sammy, with fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers and a balsamic glaze, a Grilled Chicken BLT, and their Crispy Bird.
Other sandwiches have a more traditional BLT, a great cheesesteak, and the Hot Mess. While we were there Shira ordered the Hot Mess which served up a pastrami Reuben on rye with sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. She was a very happy camper.
Further down the menu, you will discover nine different burgers, everything from the Cheddar Burger to Pickle Me Silly – with Fried Pickle Chips, American Cheese, and Thousand Island dressing. If you feel like breakfast, try The Outpost’s Breakfast Burger – with an over-easy egg, hash browns, bacon, and American cheese.
Our buddy Tony ordered up the Crispy Bird, which looked so delicious and we didn’t hear any complaints – so…
I went for The Outpost’s Byway Burger – swapping the Swiss for Cheddar. This was like the ‘Mary Poppins of burgers’ – it was practically perfect in every way.
The place also offers some smoked dishes (ribs, brisket, etc), steak dishes and a couple of fish dishes as well.
When you mix in everything we look for in a Great All-American Diner Run – the great location, the superb road, the wonderful river, and The Outpost’s easy, comfortable ambiance – along with their very friendly and attentive staff you truly have a winner. Enjoy the ride and the food! ,
WE’RE OUTTA HERE
VaasT bed & breakFasT
65 W maIn sTreeT, adamsToWn, Pa 19501 717-590-0429 • thevaast.com
It has been far too long since we featured a true family-styled B & B and this month we would like to introduce you to Amanda McDonald and Thomas Kunish, and their Bed & Breakfast - VAAST.
VAAST simply stands for “Victoria, Allen, Amanda, Sadie, and Thomas,” the family of five who purchased the 110-year-old, 8,000-square-foot home in August of 2022. Shira came across VAAST while planning out an overnight to the Oley Swap Meet in April. Sure, there were plenty of chain motels along the bigger roads – a dime a dozen – but a place like VAAST is sometimes priceless, and we’ll get into why in a bit. But, first a little history about Adamstown and the surrounding region.
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
Adamstown was initially founded on July 4, 1761, by William Addams on the site of a former village of local tribes (how does a village become former?) and Addams named the community Addamsburry. We bet he did.
Regardless time moved on and some interesting things took place in the town – a couple being some firsts. One important endeavor was the US’s oldest hat manufacturer, the Bollman Hat Company which was established in 1868. They are still in business and supply hats around the world to many companies as a private label manufacturer - one being Cabela’s.
Adamstown is also considered the antique capital of the United States, and we have never seen so many shops full of… umm- stuff. If this is your thing then spend a night at VAAST with a truck, not a motorcycle.
The town is also a bit unique in that it lies in both Berks and Lancaster counties.
For you beer aficionados, and you know who you are, this is the town that saw the founding of Stoudt’s Brewery, Pennsylvania’s first microbrewery, which was established here in 1987.
The home where VAAST is located, in addition to being a stunning building, has a bit of local history to tell. Carol and Ed Stoudt, who founded Stoudts Black Angus Restaurant along with Stoudts Brewery, bought the property in 1973 when it was a duplex and merged two homes into one over the years. Today this is where you will find the VAAST B & B.
Thomas and Amanda met in Austin, Texas and after the birth of their first child headed to Japan for a bit, and spent some time traveling the surrounding countries and expanding their family.
They both loved this part of Pennsylvania, so when an opportunity came
around, (Kunish, a former Marine, is a procurement analyst for Naval Supply Systems and works with the United States Army War College in Carlisle) they jumped on it and VAAST was born, and you are surely welcome to make yourself at home.
The bed-and-breakfast includes four rooms on the house’s third floor, each with its own bathroom.
The beds were very comfortable, the showers strong and hot on this chilly day, and most of the home was open to us guests... make an adult cocktail, or grab a soda and sit on the porch, perhaps a game or three of pool, or just take a seat in their crazy massage chair that may or may not cost us big bucks in the future.
Oh, they also have a very nice pool to give you that “chill” moment after a hard day’s night on the road and a game room with a map of the world across one side.
Foozball, anyone?
I particularly like Thomas’ display of Military Honor Coins and a US Medical Ship. It tells a bit more about who these people are, and why they have such a kind and mellow way about them.
In the morning I awoke to a smell that grabbed me from my slumber. An
aroma I have not awakened to, since the last time I stayed at my grandmother’s home.
Bacon. Really good bacon! (and, we were on the third floor)
It seems Thomas can handle himself very, very well in the kitchen too. Breakfast was superb, filling, and oh-so tasty.
Life is good on the VAAST Boat.
So… you have a loving family, kids (human), dogs (Weimaraners) and a cat (Scottish Fold), a porch, a great breakfast, and an interesting region.
Sound familiar?
In many ways, VAAST reminded us of the Gray Ghost Inn, in West Dover, Vermont. Perhaps the VAAST family reading this might be wondering why they are getting compared to another inn – but many of us know this is a compliment of the highest order in Backroads.
As we said the VAAST B & B is ideally located for regional exploration –and if antiquing is your game, you will be right at Ground Zero here.
Oh, one other thing. The VAAST B & B will cost you far less than any of the chain motels on the highway.
Wow – great vibe, superb people, pool table, a real pool, crazy massage chair, and a dog needing to be petted – it does not get much better. ,
lock 31
179 Texas Palmyra HWy, HaWley, Pa 18428
Although Backroads has written about some of the old canals that we, all too often, ride right by – we thought we would zero in on one particular canal, that changed an entire region of Pennsylvania, by way of the once capital of New York – Kingston; and that allowed New York City to become the Greatest City in the World. A canal full of history, cryptid beasts, the unexplained, and real scientific discovery.
Wait, Seymour, you say… how can some old ditch along some of the region’s best backroads change history?
Well, unbeliever… read on and I will tell you…
Once Upon a time…Coal was King
In the early 1800s, Philadelphia businessman William Wurts spent vacationing time along the then-sparsely populated northeastern part of Pennsylvania. He began noticing, mapping, and researching blackish rock out-
AMERICA
croppings, becoming the first explorer of the anthracite fields that have since become known as the Coal Region.
In 1812, William and his brothers began buying and mining large tracts of inexpensive land. They were able to extract several tons of anthracite at a time but lost most of what they tried to bring back to Philadelphia due to the treacherous waterways that were the main method of transportation in the interior. While the southern reaches of the Coal Region were already beginning to supply Philadelphia, they realized that the areas they had been exploring and mining were well-positioned to deliver coal to New York City, which had experienced an energy shortage after the War of 1812, when restrictions were placed on the import of British coal. Inspired by the new and successful Erie Canal, they conceptualized a canal of their own from Pennsylvania to New York, through the
narrow valley between the Shawangunk Ridge and the Catskill Mountains, to the Hudson River near Kingston, a route followed by the Old Mine Road, America’s first long-distance transportation route, considered by many as the oldest, and somewhat mysterious, road in the nation.
Ground was first broken on July 13, 1825. After three years of labor by 2,500 men, the canal was opened to navigation in October 1828. The canal changed everything.
Along with the economy, town names also saw a change as in those days, it was a practice of the D & H Canal Co. to rename communities along the canal for their favored officers. The present-day towns Honesdale, Port Jervis Hawley, and Wurtsboro (of course) were so named.
Just east of Honesdale, you will find Lock 31 – a stunning historical park that is worth stopping for its beautiful trails alone.
We came upon this park when we were driving west along Route 6 – yes in a car (you have one too, I bet), and on the return trip we made it a point to stop by this park with the recreated Canal Barge.
The story of the people that made the canal operate is almost scary by itself, as many of the Hoagie, or Tow Boys – were simply that – boys, and girls too, as child labor seemed to be something to exploit back in the 19th century, and many children employed were homeless orphans from charitable institutions in New York City.
Not many of these children were swimmers and if they fell overboard, or simply fell in, pulling their exhausted mule in with them, they frequently drowned. A hired driver was worth far less than a mule, so mules were often rescued first. Try explaining this to a 14-year-old today and you will get an eye roll. Just sayin’.
Entire families would live on these boats, and in the back of each would be a small cabin about 12 by 14 feet that would suffice for a young family looking to make do on the canal.
But just to explain how this canal changed everything let me tell you two important facts:
The D & H Canal Built New York City!
Though the Erie Canal was responsible for the success of New York City by opening the western frontier to commerce with the city, in a very literal
sense this canal did build New York. Coal dust was used in making Hudson River bricks and Rosendale cement was made in coal-fired plants. The bricks and mortar created with D & H coal were used to build the brick buildings and sidewalks of New York, especially after the Great Fires of 1835 and 1845.
The D & H Canal also allowed the railroad to flourish. All modern railroad tracks trace their heritage back to the flanged T-rails invented in 1831 by Robert L. Stevens, President of the Camden and Amboy Railroad. The first significant use of T-rails was in 1847 on the Erie Railroad. These rails were produced at the Lackawanna Iron Works in Scranton and carried on the D & H Canal to Cuddebackville where they were loaded on wagons for the trip to the rail line.
Then there are the monsters of lore in these parts. Big Red Eye (the native Messing), UFOs, and an honest-to-goodness mastodon unearthed in 1968 by John Leap, just south of the canal near Marshalls Creek.
The legends of the Pukwudgie, which means “little wild man of the woods that vanishes” have run along these valleys and the canal from the very beginning – to this day. Then there are the Big Cats that are spotted more and more frequently – twice by publisher Kamil.
Ask her and she will tell you.
Back on the water, after 70 years of service on November 5, 1898, the last canal boat #1107 left Honesdale for Kingston and the era of canal boats ended, at least in this part of the Keystone state – ironically killed by the train.
Lock 31 is certainly worth the stop and exploration if you are motorin’ along this part of U.S. 6. The region is full of the history that made this nation and some of it is a bit mysterious as well. O’Life Out! ,
CITY GETAWAY
PaTerson…neW Jersey?
What does a native tribe, a founding father, a gun maker, a comedian, a submarine builder and a bunch of guys making locomotives and diners all have in common?
Well – actually a 77-foot waterfall with the second greatest volume east of the Mississippi for starters; and all this is about a New Jersey city that, for the last few decades, has gotten a far worse rap than it deserves. In fact, the city of Paterson is extraordinaire in many ways.
I have a very, very close friend and business partner – who is very proud to be a Jersey girl – yet, it was this kid from Queens that brought her to the Great Falls of Paterson for the first time. She had no idea how mighty and beautiful they were. A geology lesson:
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
Geologically speaking, Paterson’s past is a varied and exciting one. Lava flows, upheavals, and even the break-up of the supercontinent Pangaeathese events are all part of this area’s geologic pre-history. The Falls and other natural features in Paterson give us clues to parts of this story. As you walk over the Falls, through Upper Raceway Park, and around the Great Falls Historic District, you’ll see some of these clues.
The Falls is in a river valley, but unlike other river valleys, such as that of the Colorado River, where the river eroded the Grand Canyon, the Paterson Great Falls was not eroded into its current form. Instead, the rocky structure that supports the Falls is virtually unchanged over the past 12,000 - 14,000 years that water has flowed over the rocky cliffs. Paterson’s Falls consists of basalt which is a fairly hard rock. In comparison, Grand Canyon consists largely of limestone and shale, with sandstone. Limestone and shale are much softer than basalt and so were far more subject to erosion.
Warren County Tourism presents BIG
What you see today is what you would have seen, more or less, thousands of years ago.
The Lenape lived here for thousands of years and then the Dutch, followed by the British, who came knocking.
When the United States was born, and way before the Broadway hit, Alexander Hamilton, the first Secretary of the Treasury formed the Society for Establishing Useful Manufactures which helped encourage the harnessing of energy from the Great Falls of the Passaic River to secure economic independence from British manufacturers. The society founded Paterson, which became the cradle of the industrial revolution in America. Paterson was named for William Paterson, statesman, signer of the Constitution, and Governor of New Jersey, who signed the 1792 charter that established the Town of Paterson.
Keen inventors, manufacturers with grand dreams, and regular folk looking for steady employment flocked to Paterson.
In 1835, Samuel Colt began producing firearms in Paterson, and later in the 19th century, Paterson was the site of early experiments with submarines by Irish-American inventor John Philip Holland.
Two of Holland’s early models— The Holland 1 and the infamous Fenian Ram - built for use by the Fenian Brotherhood, a group of Irish nationalists living in America (think IRA) - are on display in the Paterson Museum, housed in the former Rogers Locomotive and Machine Works near the falls. One of these subs was found at the bottom of the Passaic River.
The entire story of this Irish submarine is a yarn in it self and rivals the travels of the F.D.N.Y. Dream Bike.
Stay tuned, as this time it is us telling Seymour O’Life what to look for and not the other way around.
The Museum is worth the trip to this New Jer sey city alone, and other notable exhibits are a large collection of early Colt firearms and there is a display of industrial equipment from the former silk-weaving factories that used to be a prominent part of Paterson’s economy, including automated looms. You will also find the façade of a playhouse built by Lou Costello for his children.
Yes, the “Whose on First” Lou Costello. You will find a statue of the famed funny man right near the falls as well. Speaking of baseball – and that is what brought us back to the Paterson Falls in the first place – you will find Hinchliffe Stadium.
Build in the early 1930s, this was one of the few public playing fields funded entirely by a city. But although it was built for stick and ball sports – it is also known for its huge part in New Jersey auto racing.
Shira’s mentor Chris Economaki had his start as a moto-journalist covering the racing here at Hinchliffe and hanging around Paterson’s Gasoline Alley.
The stadium immediately played host to Negro league and “barnstorming” games. In 1933, the stadium’s first complete season hosting baseball, Hinchliffe hosted the Colored Championship of the Nation, the Negro Leagues equivalent of the World Series. That following year, the New York Black Yankees made the stadium their home, a tenure that lasted until 1945.
The baseball played at Hinchliffe Stadium was some of the best and most competitive in the game, including prodigious athletes like Monte Irvin, Josh Gibson, Oscar Charleston, and “Cool Papa” Bell, among many others.
For years the historic stadium sat empty and slowly fading into history.
But that has all changed now that there is real forward movement on saving this historic ballpark. In 2021 ground was broken on a $94 million project to renovate the stadium and reconstruct it so that they can open it.
The New Jersey Jackals are playing at the stadium after moving from Yogi Berra Stadium in Little Falls –which obviously were not nearly as grand as the Great Falls – we guess bigger is better. The Jackals are owned by Al Dorso – who also owns Pompton Sports Center –so here we circle back to motorcycles as well.
As we have said Paterson has had a lot of bad press – but it is a city that is turning a long corner and the Great Falls section of the town is well worth the visit and some exploration – it is a great part of the history of New Jersey and the United States. www.thepatersonmuseum.com https://lambertcastle.org/castle/ https://www.thehinchliffestadium.com/
dIane’s daIry
446 Main Rd, Suite 8, towaco, nJ • 973-265-4620 • FindtheMon Facebook/inStagRaM houRS: Mon-thuRS 12p-9p • FRi-Sun 11a-9p
The leaves are changing, the temps are cooling and the kids are back in school. It’s the perfect time to hop on the bike and take a day for yourself, indulge in the finer things in life – riding, nature and, of course, ice cream. Over the past few months I’ve featured a few places in what most folks would call northern New Jersey. That’s because A) it’s where I do most of my ice cream eating and B) it’s the prettiest part of New Jersey (sorry shore folks, you do come in a close second if it weren’t for the congestion most of the riding months).
This month’s temptation can be found nestled in a small group of shops just off Route 287 in the burg of Towaco, NJ. Owner and Chief Churner Diane Manganelli, who has lived in Towaco for the past 37 years, has been scooping for the past three years, but has an extensive 20 years of experience in cake decoration. Her creativity shines through in her almost 80 flavors of homemade ice cream made in shop. In addition to those, you’ll find at least six soft serve flavors including some Dole Whips and vegan options.
On my early summer ice cream romp, I stopped in at Diane’s Dairy, which you’ll find off the main road, behind a bank. It’s the red building with a farm-like attitude. You can’t miss the giant ice cream cone out front.
I was greeted by Diane’s smiling face, happy to offer any tasting of the 40 available flavors out front. As mentioned on her social media page, if you happen to have a favorite flavor which isn’t out front, just ask, she probably has it in the back.
Stepping inside the shop, you will feel the happy vibe generated by both the wonderful smell of waffle cones and the colorful confetti painting on the walls. Diane’s creativity does not stop in
the kitchen, as the paintings inside and on the windows make you just want more ice cream. Take your time to peruse the multitude of flavors, ask for a taste or two, and choose wisely (although you can always come back, and often). Some of the more unusual flavors on tap include Dirty Dogs (I’m really not sure what that is, but sounds intriguing, right Rachel?), Butterscotch Wrinkles, Down To Earth, 3-Day Weekend (another conundrum of a flavor), and Appley Sweet New Year. Listed under her Nut Flavors are Sticky Fingers, Red Barn Nutty Chicks and Rice Pudding. Oh sure, you can opt for one of her Classic Flavors like Bordeaux Cherry Vanilla (OMG!), Cotton Candy Craze (that’s got my niece Jilly’s name all over it) or Mintville Mint Chocolate Chip. As mentioned earlier, there are a few soft serve flavors as well as sugar/fat free vanilla (might as well just eat air, although I’m sure it is satisfying for some).
Once you’ve figured out what flavors you’d like, make your selection of serving options: cone or cup (thank goodness they have Kiddie size), sundaes (two to four scoops plus toppings), shakes, ice cream sodas or banana
split. Diane also had homemade ice cream sandwiches with Oreo or Chipwich which looked outrageous. They come in a 6-pack so you can bring a freezer bag and take them home to enjoy later with a big glass of milk. During the three years Diane’s Dairy has been open (yes, she began during those tough years of the pandemic), they have developed a very loyal following among locals and those who are lucky enough to have sought them out. The community support, and Diane and crews involvement in community events, has solidified their customer base. One of the events bringing the ice-cream hungry to the area is the weekly Saturday Cruise Night from spring through fall. There are still a few Saturdays left in October for you to stop in, check out the cars and sample some of the best ice cream in the area. You can download a 65-mile ride, starting from Jumboland, which includes the three shops I visited on my ice cream day.
www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/ydtru4
Enjoy, always remember to push the envelope with new flavors and we’ll see you on the next stop for Inside Scoop. ,
With every trip around the sun the entity that we perceive as time seems to be slowly getting faster.
Yup, odd way of phrasing that – but for many of us it is true. Still, even if it seems that Autumn comes around quicker each year, with its cooler temps and changing colors, we love this time of year!
As is the Backroads way we’ll point you in the right direction to take in the very best roads, rides, and robust colors along the Backroads of four different northeast states.
Get that extra layer, grab your Backroads Hedz, and bring a camera – let’s go Pursuing the Palette!
New Hampshire Colors loop • 160 Miles
New England has a lot to offer, and when we think New England we usually are thinking the top three - Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. (Sorry MA & CT…oh RI - almost forgot) But this Colors Ride will stay in the Live Free or Die State and run from Conway, New Hampshire on some stunning roads (all paved Patrick) and we’ll be “notching” some notches, and following along some quaint towns and meandering rivers. Why here? Well, we just did this loop, and we said a few times how great this must all be when the Fall fireworks happen. So let’s talk a bit about the ride…
We’ll start in Conway – which has so many hotels it rivals Lake George –and head north a bit before making a turn onto Hurricane Mountain Road, a 6 mile roller coaster of pavement, with a 1,190 ft climb and 1,133 ft descent, which requires your full attention. Hurricane Mountain Road is not for the faint of heart or novice rider, as it is narrow with a couple of hair-raising hairpin turns and some tight switchbacks. Should you decide to take a pass on this piece, continue up Route 302 and pick up the route at Route 16.
If you do take up the Hurricane, continuing north through the White Mountain National Forest on 113 before turning west on Route 2 and back south on 16. Note that Mount Washington is in easy grasp from here, and is still worth the ridiculous $35 per bike they charge – maybe.
At the intersection with Route 302, vector west and head over the Presidential Range.
Back on Route 302, we will go against the current of the
Saco River. This river runs nearly 140 miles from its headwaters in these mountains to the Atlantic Ocean at Saco Bay, and from the road running along it is surely looked like the purest form of water we have seen in a long time.
Maybe it was the moment, but it was pretty. So were the many cascades that come running down the mountains – especially at Crawford Notch. Head south on Route 3, and make time to stop at the Old Man in the Mountain Historic Site. The Profile, or Old Man of the Mountain, was one of the best-known natural rock formations in the country.
The jagged outline of the Old Man’s profile could be viewed by travelers on the road through the notch or from the shore of Profile Lake. You can still see this image on many New Hampshire road signs. It was really striking and a big part of the vibe and history of the state.
That all was changed forever on May , 2003 when New Hampshire woke to find that during the night the man had collapsed. I remember being slightly stunned and saddened by this. You did not have to be a native New Hampshire to feel the loss.
A new non-profit organization, the Old Man of the Mountain Legacy Fund, stepped for ward to create a privately funded monument to the beloved state symbol. Today, visitors can follow a scenic pathway to Profile Lake and the new Old Man of the Mountain Profiler Plaza. Sculptors Ron Magers and Shelly Bradbury created a series of steel profiler rods that point to ward the cliff where the Old Man once stood. When a visitor sights along the edge of one of the rods, the Old Man’s profile comes into view.
Heading south you will the beautiful Franconia Notch, and then also pass an unusual Historical Marker – one for the Betty and Barney Hill Incident.
Cue the X-Files theme…
On the night of September 19–20, 1961, Portsmouth, New Hampshire couple Betty and Barney Hill experienced a close encounter with an unidentified flying object and two hours of “lost” time while driving south on Route 3 near Lincoln. They filed an official Air Force Project Blue Book report of a brightly-lit cigar-shaped
craft the next day but were not public with their story until it was leaked in the Boston Traveler in 1965. This was the first widely reported UFO abduction report in the United States.
Lincoln has plenty of restaurants to choose for lunch, and then get set to head back east on Route 112, better known as the Kancamagus Highway. The road was named after the last chief of the Pennacooks, who dominated a confederation of Native American tribes living in New Hampshire in the 17th century. But if you want to say the full name – say it right. The correct way to pronounce Kancamagus is “Kank-ah-mah-gus.”
We just call it the Kanc!
This road, fairly recently paved, rises 2,855 feet as it crosses the pass, and is one of the most well-known motorcycling roads in the United States. Take your time and enjoy the ride. The road, the colors, and the mountains of New Hampshire will be so worth it.
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Pennsylvania Hawks & Heroes • 143 Miles
The Keystone state has plenty to offer the Fall rider, and we will give a loop ride from Hermy’s BMW/Triumph in Port Clinton that’ll go over peaks and along some outstanding farm roads.
Heading out north on Route 61 from the shop we will be run ning near the Schuylkill River that flows 135 miles to Phila delphia where it joins the Delaware, one of that river’s largest tributaries.
There are two graves in the cemetery that are enclosed in iron. These iron-clad structures, which shroud two resting souls, Sarah Ann Boone and Asenath Thomas, have puzzled generations. Why were these graves covered in such a haunting manner? The purpose remains a riddle, and our investigation took us on a strange and intriguing quest to unravel the truth. Were they built to keep something out, or something from escaping?
As you approach the town there is an option to check these out for yourself, and maybe you will find the answer, but be careful if it is around the 31st of this month.
We’ll head up and over Hawk Mountain. The Hawk Mountain Sanctuary is well worth the visit. In the 85 years since its inception, Hawk Mountain has welcomed and educated thousands of visitors. The Sanctuary was founded in 1934 by Rosalie Edge, a conservationist who saw the impact of overzealous raptor hunting on the Kittatinny Ridge.
We featured this place a few years back and the number of Hawks that were shot along this ridge is staggering, and Hawk Mountain was the first refuge for raptors in the United States. Migrating hawks were shot by thousands for a $5 bounty from the state, as they believed too much poultry were being taken by the birds. Not just hawks, but Great Horned Owls, and any other raptor.
Thankfully we have gotten past that and the mountain and the hawks are still there for us to enjoy.
The 145-mile ride will then follow several tinier farm roads passing through Tuscarora State Park and continue north and west. We’ll loop back in the town of Catawissa along the Susquehanna Valley and the big mountain. Catawissa meant “Pure Water” in the native language, but there is an odd mystery in this town – the Hooded Graves.
Looping back and around we’ll wind up east of Port Clinton, heading west on Route 895.
Just before the town of New Ringgold, there is a car salvage business called J.W. Zaprazny, and on the left, you will see the hero of this Hawks & Heroes Loop – Iron Man.
Constructed in 2013 by artist Charles Applegate, it consists of welded stainless steel and stands over six feet tall and is spot on for the original 1963 suit Tony Stark created in North Vietnam to escape his communist captors. You can read all about this in the December 2022 issue of Backroads online.
It is a quick ride back to Hermy’s from here.
Enjoy the colors and the ride.
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Backroads December 2022: issuu.com/backroadsmagazine/docs/december_2022web
Catskill Colors • 221 Miles
To start this colorful romp, we want to look back a bit to see how the mountains we now call the Catskills came to be.
Okay, more than a bit, some 400 million years ago in fact. During what geologists and historians call the Devonian Period high water levels caused large seas to cover much of Europe and North America. Known as the “Age of Fishes”, an abundance of sea life included the first amphibians, finned fish, mollusks, and sharks. A huge inland sea covered the areas that are now the Rondout and Neversink watersheds. In this sea lived all types of prehistoric sea life. Then it got hit by a meteorite. A big meteorite that was believed to have been roughly one-half mile wide, striking with a force equivalent to 11trillion tons ofTNT.
Over millions of years the crater filled with sediment and through uplift and erosion became Panther Mountain, and the crater lying 2,640feet below the surface, is 7miles wide, and lies directly under the mountain.
Then the Ice Age happened and the receding glaciers gave us the fine sculpture work that we have now.
On this ride, we don’t think we need to worry about any meteorites, better to concentrate on the great roads and sublime colors that will fill the mountainsides and valleys. But our route will go in and around Ground Zero for that punch the region took 400 million years ago.
Our loop will begin and end at the Hancock House, in the town with the same name. They have been big supporters of this magazine for years and offer excellent accommodations, and have a superb restaurant and bar too.
We will take to the north and up along the first of a few New York City reservoirs, the Cannonsville, and then along the West Branch of the Delaware River. Heading east now, we will hit a lot of roads, some small, some a bit bigger. No gravel (we hope), and then through the ski town of Hunter and just past here, make a right on a hidden gem called Platts Clove Road. Ride in your lim its and park when you can for the most outstanding views.
Back in the valley, we will ride into Woodstock, New York – with its plethora of quirky shops and characters. Lunch might be a good idea. Park the bikes and do a little window shopping too.
Leaving the town, we will go up and then down over Ohayo Mountain Road, and then Peekamoose with its many cascades along the tight mountain road, and riding around the rest of the meteorite created thousands of feet below the pavement.
Old Route 17 will funnel us back to the Hancock House and the end of a fun and good day’s romp… they have a great beer selection at Honest Eddies, and say hello from us.
(Yes, we know we didn’t mention the Hawk’s Nest, but it’s too pretty not to picture when writing about this area.)
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Our New Jersey • 105 Miles
The northwestern parts of the Garden State could be a thousand miles away from a jet landing at Newark Liberty at night… with stacks blowin’ fire and the approach looking like you’re landing at Thunderdome. I have riders from other parts of the country amazed at this part of the Garden State.
So, follow along with us on a little ride through parts of Warren and Sussex counties, where we’ll serve you breakfast, bring you to pick some apples, and then a great dessert to finish it all off.
Let us show off our New Jersey - its history, roads, and beautiful Fall colors.
This ramble will start with breakfast at the Hainesville General Store, home of great breakfasts, and the best pies in the region. Dense and heavy with deep flavors – they are amazing. Be warned. Make sure
you have room to bring one home…. Keep room for the apples though. Breakfast done we will hit the New Jersey backroads, and head west towards the Walpack Valley. We have written about this valley a zillion times – it is what this region really looked like centuries ago. If you like, you can take great side trip to Buttermilk Falls – the region’s tallest cascade – but it will run in and back out on very doable gravel. (note the bridge here is under repair – but we hope to be open by the time you read. If not follow detour.
From the valley we will head over the Kittatinny Ridge and to the historic town of Stillwater, that has some deep history. It lies along the Kittatinny Valley, and was home to the Lenape tribe and then settled by Palatine Germans in the 18th century. Although the Roman Catholic Empire has long since faded you can still see remains of them in the local architec ture in the grist mills and lime kilns that are sprin kled along our route. Ride up and down the small Main Street and you will see what we mean.
From here we’ll spin up County Road 521, past Swartswood Lake – the state’s first park - and then you have a choice to stop and pick some apples at Brodheckers Farms. This truly is our neighborhood, and we have been watching these apples grow and ripen all summer – so enjoy!
bit, before taking the road to Sunrise Mountain – with its stupendous views and access to the Appalachian Trail - and then back down and loop north, almost to New York, but then back south up and over High Point State Park – you will also find a serious three-state view atop here, as well as more of the Appalachian Trail that crosses the summit.
You’ll meander for some more New Jersey scenic miles before ending up on Route 23 north and your final stop at Elias Cole, a classic New Jersey eatery, and a bite of lunch or, maybe, a slice of their equally delicious homemade pie a la mode.
Once your saddle bags are almost full, double back and head straight up the hill on CR 521 to Route 206 North, just for a
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Enjoy the colors wherever you ride and remember to Ride Often. Ride Smart. Ride the Backroads.
Any list of the most iconic movie vehicles would have to start with James Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 from Goldfinger. After that maybe GhostBusters’ Ectomobile or Steve McQueen’s Mustang from Bullitt. My favorite would have to be DeLorean DMC12 from Back to the Future.
In 1981, the DeLorean DMC12, with its futuristic stainless-steel body and gull-wing doors, was the coolest, most bad-ass looking car out there. Unfortunately, it was doomed by poor performance (130hp) and a $25,000 price tag. DeLorean declared bankruptcy and the final DMC12 rolled off its Northern Ireland assembly line in December of 1982. The car was destined for obscurity until 1985 when it was featured in the movie Back to the Future.
The Back to the Future (BTTF) movie trilogy starred Michael J. Fox and Christopher Lloyd but the time-traveling DeLorean was every bit as important. Interest in the defunct car soared and it has remained popular with collectors. My sister-in law heard about a private collection containing several iconic movie cars as well as a screen-used DeLorean and she booked
us a tour for my birthday (Thanks, Vivian!) If you have not seen Back to the Future, there will be spoilers ahead. We showed up to Bill and Patrick Shea’s 88mphtimemachine museum not sure what to expect. Bill and Patrick Shea are a father-son team with a passion for cars and movie memorabilia. They started with a DeLorean in 1995 and people would ask about the flux capacitor. In 2010, they had it turned into a full-blown Back to the Future Time Machine. The collection exploded from there and now they have an impressive collection of screenused movie cars and tribute cars as well as movie props. After meeting Patrick, he brought us to the first building. Stepping inside we see a 1958 Chevrolet Corvette Roadster. While this one is not from a movie, this is Bill’s first, and favorite car. The license plate calls it “The Toy” and it’s immaculate.
Next to the ‘Vette is an oddity: a gold DeLorean DMC12. DeLoreans are known for their distinctive silver-gray stainless-steel finish. However, in 1980, DeLorean ran a promotion with American Express Gold Card where, for a mere $85,000.00, you could order a gold-plated DeLorean. Only two were made, but a spare set of bodywork was gold plated in case one of the existing panels was damaged. After DeLorean filed for bankruptcy, these spare panels were used to produce this car. Since it was done by the factory, technically it’s the final DeLorean DMC12 ever produced.
Beside the Gold-plated DeLorean is what appears to be an ultra-rare Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder. However, it’s a replica made specifically for the movie Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. In that movie, Ferris and his friends take the Ferrari out for a joy ride. Instead of using a priceless 250 GT, they built three
replicas for the movie. One for the close-up shots, one for driving and a spare. Near the end of the movie, the Ferrari is launched out the back of the garage into a ravine. That’s the car here. There’s no engine and, before Bill and Patrick got it, it hung on the wall of the Hard Rock Café in Cancun, Mexico.
Next to the Ferris Bueller car is another iconic movie vehicle: a 1959 Cadillac Miller Meteor ambulance. This particular one was built to promote the world premiere of Ghostbusters: Afterlife in 2020. Due to Covid, the promotion never happened. But the build was completed and, after some negotiation, Bill and Patrick were able to add it to their collection. The attention to detail is incredible and all the gadgets work. The next building is dedicated to Back to the Future
and I spun in circles trying to take everything in. Great Scott! The walls are plastered with memorabilia from the movies. One wall features a re-creation of the Hill Valley Courthouse including life-sized mannequins of Doc and Marty. Of course I got in the scene for a photo!
A VW van, as used by the Libyan terrorists in the first movie is there as is Marty’s Toyota pickup. This is the one he drove in the second and third movies. Apparently, after starring in the movies, it was sold, stolen, and used for running drugs in Mexico – they have the paperwork to prove it.
But the DeLorean Time Machines! There are three here. The first is the mangled remains of the DeLorean that met its demise at the end of BTTF3 when it was destroyed by a train. The post-crash body parts were re-assembled over a square-tube frame and the whole thing was set on the original
train wheels from the movie. It was displayed inverted on the ceiling of Planet Hollywood in Hawaii before it closed and was purchased at auction by Bill and Patrick.
Another DeLorean on display has been modified to look like a time machine from BTTF2, complete with a Mr. Fusion reactor and Flux Capacitor. Fun fact: when DeLoreans were built, the Federal Government mandated that all car speedometers go to a maximum of 85MPH so the dash had to be modified for the movie to show 88 MPH.
The next DeLorean is the actual DeLorean used in BTTF3. The scene where Marty drives out of the 1955 Drive-In theatre into the old West of 1885 was filmed with this very car. Only three of the original seven BTTF DeLoreans still exist. One is at Universal in Florida and one is at Universal in California. This is the third one and is the only screen-used DeLorean in private hands. Bill and Patrick purchased this at auction in 2011 and have been offered crazy money for it but it’s not for sale. This one was designed for offroad use as seen in BTTF3 and has a Volkswagen engine and drivetrain and sits on a dune buggy chassis.
From here, Patrick brought us upstairs to the “Prop Room.” In the opening scene of the first Back to the Future movie, there is a wall of clocks triggering various appliances: a coffee pot, a toaster, and an automated dog food dispenser. The entire opening sequence has been recreated here and
we followed along with a clip from the movie. Everything happens in sequence right up to where Marty comes in. Doc Brown’s mind reading helmet is here too, as is Marty’s Clint Eastwood outfit from BTTF3. There’s also a motorcycle: a police hoverbike from BTTF2 that was only on screen for a few seconds. While this one was not in the movie, the bodywork was made from the original molds. The bike underneath is a Ninja 250.
Among the many other props is a Gibson ES-345 guitar that Marty McFly plays at the Under the Sea dance. Though the scene takes place in 1955, the ES-345 wasn’t introduced until 1958.
This ES-345 has been signed by the cast.
Over in a third building is Doc Brown’s 1949 Packard Custom 8 Victoria Convertible. This car appeared in all three movies and is most famous for being the car where George punches out Biff and steals Lorraine’s heart. Behind the Packard sits another DeLorean Time Machine. This one is a replica from the first movie. Instead of the Mr. Fusion reactor, it has a long pole to catch the wire just as lightning strikes the courthouse. While the Back to the Future trilogy is the basis for Bill and Patrick’s most awesome museum, they do have a few other famous movie cars. In addition to the Ferris Bueller and Ghostbusters cars they have a screen-used Ford Explorer from the movie Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom. This one is on its roof with a velociraptor standing on it. Around the corner is a pair of Jurassic Park replicas: a Ford Explorer tour car with a bubble roof and the tour navigation video player and a Jeep Wrangler staff car, driven by John Hammond. Almost as an afterthought, Patrick took us to one last small carriage shed where he has three Steve McQueen owned motorcycles on display. First up is a 1970 Kawasaki G31 Centurian with “Ringadingdoo” painted across the tank. In small print were the words “Done Up for Steve McQueen by Von Dutch.” Next to the little Kawasaki is a 1941 Indian Chief used by the California Highway patrol that was also owned by Steve McQueen. And next to the Indian, a 1929 Harley Davidson Model B Touring bike that Steve kept in his living room.
Turning around, two final cars are on display: a 1968 black Dodge Charger and a 1968 Green Ford Mustang fastback. In the 1968 movie Bullitt, starring Steve McQueen, there is an amazing chase sequence involving a green Mustang and a black Charger. The Mustang is a tribute car built for the 50th anniversary of the film’s release by Grease Monkey Garage and used to recreate the chase scene. The Charger is another tribute car because if you have the Mustang, you really need the
Charger to complement it.
All the cars and motorcycles reside in a series of buildings at Bill’s house and they have no plans to display the cars in a museum open to the general public. Instead, they offer guided tours at the farmhouse. They also visit various car shows and parades. Additionally, they have loaned out the cars for various BTTF conventions. The tours are by appointment only and take about 2 hours (I went twice!) and are worth every penny. Most of the money they take in from the tours goes to the Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinsons Research. Patrick and Bill Are always on the look-out for iconic movie cars so, if you hear of a certain Aston Martin DB5 coming up for sale, be sure to let them know.
If you would like to take your own Back to the Future Tour, here is the link to get in touch with Bill and Patrick, as well as some other interesting links to the DeLorean and iconic movie cars. www.88mphtimemachine.com/
Video on the DeLorean Time Machine www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgOb22gz_TY
The Michael J. Fox Organization for Parkinsons Research www.michaeljfox.org/ manofmany.com/rides/cars/most-iconic-cars-in-film-history
In the beginning…
The coffee mug, splayed with a fishing lure called the Gray Ghost, sat to the left of my laptop, which sat on a small table in a comfortable gathering room with a view of Vermont’s Route 100 lined with an upward glance. It was early morn, the sun just beginning to usher in the day.
A lone motorcycle ran north, passed the inn, and I glanced up wishing him a good ride this day.
I wondered how many times I had started a story on a Backroads Summer Squeeze from this very room, at this very table. So many I would need to look at old issues of the magazine to even get close.
Others are beginning to stir and “good mornin’s” begin to echo through the inn.
The planet is spinning, and Sol is building a truly magnificent morning. It is a great day for a ride.
This is our 13th Summer Squeeze (I looked it up), almost always held in West Dover, Vermont –spreading our group between two inns- the Kitzhof, and the Gray Ghost – just a mile apart from each other on Vermont’s famed Route 100.
This may have been the latest dates in the summer for this event, but the turnout was amazing – so many old friends and a bunch of new Backroaders joining us for this oddly timed rally.
The Squeeze has always been about riding the backroads when there is the least traffic possible. In this part of New England that would be Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. Light traffic, open roads and plenty to find, see, and explore makes southern Vermont a wondrous place to ride motorcycles.
For us our ride started on Monday morning, with columnist extraordinaire Mark Byers and his wife Betsy joining Shira and me at Backroads Central for a few days, and then riding up to Vermont with a couple of other nearby riding friends – Bill, Patrick and Isabel. This day the roads were open, and the weather fair for most of the day – until it wasn’t.
Blue skies turned gray, then churned into a charcoal swirl, and the summer squall that nailed us as we rode a tiny piece of asphalt up and over the mountains into Vermont making the final miles of the trek both thrilling and chilling.
The sun broke out as the rains fled east and we rolled into a packed parking lot at the Gray Ghost. They say timing is everything.
Welcome to the Summer Squeeze.
Tuesday…
We think most folks had a good Squeeze-day, with many riders headed south to the Rockwell Museum that was holding its MAD magazine exhibition… What, Me Worry? The Art & Humor of Mad Magazine. Who did not love Alfred E. Neuman?
It included special essays by MAD artists, writers, editors, and exhibition co-curators and advisors; narrative descriptions and images from the exhibition; brand new illustrations including a cartoon by Sam Viviano, a special FOLD-IN by Johnny Sampson; and other iconic original illustrations and cartoons created by the magazine’s Usual Gang of Idiots — the many artists and writers who have been the publication’s mainstays for decades. There were a bunch of Frank Frazetta art – who knew he did MAD?
The Pember Museum was a great stop for a bunch as well; even if Mazie the Pup had an issue with the stuffed bear, although she found no fault with the lion. The Vermont Country Store in Weston got its fair share of traffic, as folks stopped by to pick up Cabot cheeses and play with the old-timey toys on display. Some heading up to Mount Equinox with its challenging road and spectacular pay-off of a view from the PEAK. Its Skyline Drive — the longest privately owned, paved toll road in the United States — ascends 3,248 feet over 5.2 miles to the top of Mount Equinox. In continuous operation since its completion in 1947,
the road is a blast – especially heading down. The Saint Bruno Scenic Viewing Center atop holds a superb exhibition about the Carthusian Monks and their monastery and offers views of New Hampshire to the east and New York’s Adirondacks to the west.
This evening I had a litany of the usual stunned admonishments that some routes took to gravel. This is Vermont – more gravel roads than paved – still we try to keep it pavement-bound without sending folks through the few slightly urbanized towns that can be found in the Green Mountain state.
But sadly, in Vermont we fail at this again, and again, and again. Yup, we suck. We know.
So, we’ll officially stop trying. We have been doing this for almost three decades now… and maybe it is time to cut the apron strings.
We will surely have more rallies and adventures, but like Nixon kinda, sorta said – “You won’t have Happy & Pepe to kick around anymore.”
Later that evening we had some serious musicians doing a solid set or two of a mix of Rock & Roll, and Jazz classics – and some originals as well – both down at the bonfire and up in the lodge with a few guitars and the stand-up piano. Thank you, Jon, Glen and Roy. Even Johnny Rocket, right out of Crossroads in Antigua, did a set – you guys are awesome.
Wednesday…
For us we had an easy day riding with Mark and Betsy to Plummer’s Maple Syrup, outside of Grafton. In a state with syrup for sale on every corner, this place is the real deal with miles of plastic piping leading from hundreds of sugar maples to the large barn where the amazing alchemy that makes some of Vermont’s very best maple syrup happens. We like to call it magic.
We then grabbed sandwiches at the Grafton General Store and had lunch with Carina, who owned the Gray Ghost for years before deciding to turn to the next chapter in her life. Wonderful to see this lady again, and see how magnificently she landed.
Back at the Ghost, I had some housekeeping to do with Shira’s Suzuki, and while all that was happening bikes began to roll back in.
Some with stories to tell, others amazed at how much gravel there really is in Vermont. Yup, yup, yup…
Around the third set of scary and mean gravel stories you all sound like Charlie Brown’s teacher to me-kidding. I pay hawk-like attention to you all. With the sun shining brightly and the temperatures matching, many took to the pool to catch some last rays of the summer. That night some rolled out for dinner, others stayed in with pizza, piano and guitars. The stars were out, the fire pit ablaze – pretty much perfect for
the final night of the Summer Squeeze 2024.
Thanks to Cary and Eamon of the Gray Ghost and Andrew of the Kitzhof for their stellar hospitality and welcoming our sometimes rowdy group (hey, we do know how to clean up after ourselves).
We look forward to more visits in the future.
As Howie Rose would say… Put it in the books. See you in 2025! ,
words + images: Tony Lisanti
The 11 round 2024 Pro Motocross Championship series had reached its two-week hiatus in August. The series reconvened at the famed 1.5-mile Unadilla track located in Central NY State. The Elf Fuels & Lubricants Pro Motocross National was set for Saturday August 10th. This would be the home stretch with the final 3 races determining the outdoor champions. Mother Nature and hurricane Debby had other plans. The wet weather was
not conducive for two wheeled travels so I 4-wheeled it to central NY state. Once I arrived and checked in, the rain became biblical. The track and pits were flooded. It was bad enough that some of the media activities on track were cancelled.
The remnants of Debbie pushed though later intheevening and by Saturday morning the track was in great shape, groomed and prepped to perfection, a testament to the hard work by Greg Robinson and his staff. The pits and parking areas – not so much.
KTM’s Chase Sexton took his series points lead into qualifying for the 450 class, while Yamaha’s Haiden Deegan did the same in the 250 class. Early qualifying sessions had Honda’s Chase Hymas leading the 250cc class with a 2:13.773 and KTM’s Chase Sexton on top of the 450cc class with a 2:11.943. For context there was only 12-13 seconds between the fastest and least fastest riders that qualified for the respective main events.
Attrition had definitely taken its toll with last year’s undisputed 450cc champion Honda’s Jett Lawrence out with an injury. His brother Hunter would be debuting the 2025 Honda CR450F. Hunter had been in the top five all season battling with KTM’s Chase Sexton. Suzuki’s Ken Roczen returned to the line with a top five
qualifying time. Fan favorite Eli Tomac was also out with injury but was rumored to be coming for this race. It didn’t happen. With all the emphasis on the top 36 riders that qualified for each of the 250cc and 450cc main events, there was approximately 80 – 90 Privateers for each class competing for a chance to qualify for the main Motos. The top riders are well sponsored and have full resources of mechanics, tire changers, physical specialists, trainers and families with them. The Privateers show up, many of them out of pocket in vans and campers with the family & friends acting as their crew. Most would go home before the Mains. It’s a tribute to the sport of motocross that this much effort is put forth by the lower rung riders, many of whom are under 21 years of age. By lower rung I mean no disrespect. They are fast and super talented. Only a few seconds separates them from the top pros, but most would have to watch the main event from behind the fence. By noon the skies were bright with a few lingering clouds and the temperature was in the low 80’s. The 250-class lined up first with Yamaha mounted and fan favorite Haiden Deegan getting second gate pick next to Chase Hymas.
When the gate dropped for the 250cc Moto 1 it was Kawasaki’s Levi Kitchen who took the lead with Honda’s Chance Hymas in Second. Haiden Deegan was 3rd. Hymas would take the lead before the end of the opening lap. With Kitchen in second and Deegan third they began to pick up the pace. It would remain this way for the first half of the 30-minute moto. Then Hymas went down hard on a downhill in the back section of the track towards the latter half of the moto. He swapped the rear in the ruts and went over the bars. It was a scary crash since the bike landed on him with exhaust header against his head. Fortunately, his helmet protected him from serious burns. Kitchen took over the lead, but Deegan soon caught up and passed him. The two battled in the closing laps but Deegan
made it to the checkered flag with 1-2 second margin over Kitchen. Max Anstie, Deegan’s Yamaha teammate would finish third. ChanceHymas crossed the line well back finishing 22nd . Moto 2 would provide redemption for Kawasaki’s Levi Kitchen. He took the holeshot and opened an impressive lead over Honda’s Jo Shimoda. Deegan was well back on the opening laps. As Kitchen continued to reel off laps, Shimoda was pushing to catch up. Unfortunately, he crashed hard on
the back section leading to Skyshot and suffered a broken collarbone. Deegan worked his way up and was in 2nd when Shimoda fell but was unable to catch Kitchen. Kitchen took the overall win with a 2-1, while Deegan would settle for 2nd overall with a 1-2. The French KTM rider Tom Vialle would finish the moto in 3rd. Triumph factory rider Jake Swoll would finish the day in 4th place and earned an impressive 3rd overall with a 6-4.
When the gate dropped for the first 450cc moto, KTM’s Aaron Plessinger would get the holeshot. But Honda’s Hunter Lawrence would take the lead by the end of lap 1 and like his younger brother did all last year, would lead the entire moto. Behind him KTM’s Chase Sexton applied pressure never falling more than 2-3 seconds behind. He hounded Lawerence the entire race but could not pass him. The Moto would end with Lawrence 1, Sexton 2 and Plessinger 3. Moto 2 started with a determined Sexton taking the holeshot and never looking back. The series points leader opened a commanding lead. Moto1 winner Hunter Lawrence got a poor start and was pushing to catch up. Honda’s Dylan Ferrandis settled into second with Aaron Plessinger in 3rd. Lawrence’s effort paid off as he caught up to the leaders and passed Plessinger and Ferranadis on the closing laps. The moto would end with Sexton first for a 2-1 and the overall win for the day. Lawrence finished second giving him a 1-2 overall and Ferrandis crossed the line in third giving him a 4th overall with 6-3. Plessinger would take the final top three
overall finishing fourth and a 3-4. As a wrap up to the outdoor motocross series, Yamaha’s Haiden Deegan would finish the next round at Budd’s Creek Maryland with enough points to earn him the overall 250cc Championship. He would enter the 11th and final round at Ironman in Indiana with the #1 plate. KTM’s Chase Sexton would take the 450cc series championship with overall wins at Budd’s Creek and Ironman.
In closing, on the rainy Friday afternoon before the main event, I crossed paths with 2001 AMA Hall of Fame Inductee and longtime voice of Motocross, Larry Maiers. Larry was the host of Motoworld and Bike Week (remember those shows?). His voice is synonymous with motorcycle racing and Unadilla, having been the PA announcer for the USGP’s and the famed 1987 Motocross Des Nations and countless AMA Nationals. He called me over on this rainy day and we both lamented about the weather, but agreed- many races had been held under similar conditions. He asked how long I had been attending this race. When I replied since 1973, he lit up and was surprised when I recalled the overall winner (Pierre Karsmakers). We then struck up a conversation about all the memories at this track. Little did I know we were on the track PA and he was interviewing me. Never imagined that after 50+ years I would end up sharing and trading memories with the voice of this great event, our voices echoing over the hills of the track. At that moment the rain didn’t matter.
As always, looking forward to next year. ,
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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully
A column dedicated to your riding survival
GearInG uP… orIsTHaTdoWn?
make your bIke’s Gear raTIo FIT your rIdInG
Years ago, I bought a 2002 KLR 650. I had ridden one up in Alaska and fell in love with its easy to ride, do anything ride-attitude. The KLR is like a great utility ball player that can play every position except pitch (unless it is one of THOSE games).
But the more you spend with something (or someone), little things that were once overlooked, tend to rise to the top – and then it is all you can think about.
Anyone in a serious relationship knows this. Some things cannot be changed, but others can be well, maybe, modified a bit.
With the KLR 650 I found that on the highway, the bike was really pushing itself to get comfortable at higher speeds.
If you have ever ridden a KLR you know just how unreal the pure brawny horsepower of this engine (designed in the Carter Administration) truly is… or is not.
Getting the revs to drop a bit from ‘about to explode’ to ‘just getting ready to explode’ would make it far more enjoyable on bigger roads, or while touring.
As this turns, it carries the motorcycle’s chain with it. The spinning chain is run along the far larger sprocket at the rear wheel. The Rear Sprocket, or RS this time around.
When this happens, the motorcycle begins to move forward.
This is called Drive, and the chain is a Drive Chain.
See even a kid from Queens can explain this.
So here is where it gets a bit mathematical. I know…math sucks, but stick with me on this.
I wanted the KLR to rev a bit lower when I was pushing it. (not actually pushing it…you know).
The bike came with a 15-tooth CS up front, and a 43-tooth RS.
When you divide the number of CS teeth into the number of the RS teeth you get what is called the Drive Ratio. In this case 15 into 43 leaves us with a ratio of 2.86.
That means the countershaft sprocket must turn 2.86 times for the rear wheel to spin once.
My answer for this KLR issue was to swap the stock 15-tooth sprocket for a slightly larger 16-tooth sprocket. I left the rear sprocket size alone. This made the Gear Ratio a bit lower, now 2.68. That might not seem like much – but it did on the KLR. Much less nervous, and far more rideable. Let’s talk about lingo and why things get confusing.
If your machine is chain-driven, there is one, relatively easy, way to accomplish this… and it works in reverse as well.
Changing your sprockets.
I will make this as simple as can be – as I know not everyone who rides a motorcycle has a total grasp on how things work. That’s okay, and this is why we have articles like this.
Please note – I am a shade tree mechanic at best, and that tree is probably an Ash and will fall onto the barn with the next big gust. That being said… we plunge on undaunted.
Many motorcycles have a chain. That chain is turned by the far smaller sprocket that is on a spline shaft coming from the transmission, that is transmitting (thus its name) power from the engine.
This smaller sprocket is called the Countershaft Sprocket, or CS in this article.
When someone says their bike has Higher Gearing (Taller) it means larger CS – more top-end, less acceleration from the start. When you talk about Lower Gearing (Short) it is the opposite. Smaller CS, and quicker off the line, but less top speed and higher revving bike on the highway.
Here comes the weird math – the larger the Gear Ratio number (say 3.10) and that means the shorter gear. Quicker off the line, but at the expense of top end. A Shorter Ratio (say 2.8) means taller gearing - and better fuel mileage, an easier pace, lower revving ride at higher speeds.
All this recently came about when I could see that Shira was riding her Honda 919 around our northwest New Jersey backroads in second and third gears, and I kept finding my Kawasaki 900 Z up in third and fourth – usually because the quick-revving Z needed to be shifted more – if just to keep the noise down, as the backroads are not a race track.
Shira’s bike came with shorter gearing from the factory, with a 16 CS and a 43 RS. The Z had a 15 CS, and 42 RS.
I raised the CS by just one tooth, losing the 15-tooth and replacing it with a 16-tooth. That lowered my Drive Ratio from a 2.8 to a 2.6. Like the KLR it was not much on paper, but plenty on the road.
If you have not changed your chain and sprockets in a long bit, it might be a great idea to change both sprockets and chain during this gear ratio adjustment.
Better to have everything fresh and new – and if you have thought this out well enough – you might feel like you have a brand-new and far more fun to ride motorcycle. ,
