WHAT’S INSIDE
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2025. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibility of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
FREE WHEELIN
The Family
Over the years Shira and I have met, and ridden with, hundreds of riders. Some have become great, and long lasting, friends; others are like ships that pass in the night.
It’s all good, and there are some riding friends I have not seen in a dozen years but when we do see each other we pick up right where we left off.
I have some riding companions that have said many times that we, the riders that always seem to show up at our Backroads Rallies, are “The family they choose.”
The Family.
I get that, and we here at Backroads do feel blessed by the riders that have become friends, and some quasi-family.
The Family…
Hmmm, it has that cozy ‘Hey, you’re in safe with us’ sorta feel to it.
I have guys and gals I have grown up with, and remain life-long buddies with, but they never picked up the life time chronic strain of COVID -1 (Cycle Obsession Very Important Daily) more commonly called “Rideacitus,’ so I rarely see them.
BRIAN RATHJEN
Although we heard that a Suzuki 50 has rolled into our grand-nephew’s home in Kentucky. So maybe there is hope?
Then there are all the other people that we deal with every day…I call them Earth People.
Perhaps you are a bit like me, where riding is such an important part of your life, that you are almost flabbergasted when these Earth People ask the same questions about the sport.
We get this at the gym all the time. In truth, it is really the only other place we interact with regular humans on a more or less daily basis. Few of these fellow Gym Rats ride, and occasionally, when I stroll into the gym with my riding gear, I can see one heading my way and I already know what they are going to ask…
Then there are actual family members – real and legal, whether you were born with them or married into - who are so very important to us. But with both sides of the families there are no motorcycles in a garage. Sniff.
“Will you ride in the winter?” This is regularly followed by, “Have you ever crashed? Did it hurt? What if you crash again?” And, the statement/question, “Wow, you must really love motorcycle riding.”
“Well yes, I will. Yes, I have. Yes, it did. I will try to avoid that, and finish with – Yes, all my life.”
These questions are never heard when I am with The Family.
No, our queries are usually to a point – and more than occasionally leads to a saucy quip. If it is really cold out the common question will be more of a one-upmanship…
“You have your liner on?” “Yeh, I got my electrics on… but I DIDN’T turn them on. Did you?”
Continued on Page 6
WHATCHATHINKIN’
BeaTThe CloCk
Mind games. Haven’t we all played these, for as long as time has been a factor in our lives.. How many weeks until the weather gets better? When will the leaves begin to show on the trees? When will the pond melt and the frogs appear at Backroads Central? How fast can I finish the NYT’s Wordle/Connections/Strands puzzle? How long will it take to finish a task – I can do it faster (and hopefully just as well). Smart Watches and FitBits have us keeping track of sooooo many things in our lives – steps, heartbeat, calories, distance traveled, sleep and even stress levels. I don’t wear a watch and certainly would never strap one of these on my wrist, as I think keeping track of all these things would simply bring more stress into one’s life. I do own a blood pressure cuff which sits by the side of my desk and every once in a while I’ll remember to see where I stand. As a matter of fact, just writing this I put it on, only to find it reading ‘replace battery’. Hmmm, is that the device or my heart? Even before Garmin and other routing devices appeared, we would play the game of ‘Beat the Clock’. Knowing the mileage from point A to B, we could estimate our arrival times and always try to get there just a bit faster. As little kids in the back seat on the way to Grandma’s house for Sunday dinner, the inevitable question of ‘Are we there yet?’ would continue to annoy our parents. Would it make them drive a little fast to stop the badgering? Not sure, but we always got there when we got there, and in one piece. When I would be in the car with my mother, whether she was driving or giving me directions, she would go five miles out of her way to avoid a traffic light. It made no difference that it took longer or there were more stop signs or congestion, she simply did not like sitting at a traffic light. She saw waiting as her demon, not the clock.
For the most part, when we are on our motorcycles, it is not a matter of beat the clock, but a day of relaxation, adventure and enjoyment. There is no rush to arrive at a certain time, there is no reason to twist the throttle a little more (other than for pure fun), and keeping an eye on the time is the last thing on our minds.
There is almost nothing better than being out during on a long summer day, the sun on our backs and the warm air surrounding us as we ride hither and yon. Out early in the morning and returning long after the sun has set, as riding on a sultry summer night is pretty close to bliss.
But in spring and fall, when the light of day is not as long and there is a chill in the air as the sun sets, there may be that thought of parking the bike before dusk sets in. Making the most of peak riding hours may have us keep the clock in the back of our minds. Lingering over a cup of coffee at a little café or stopping at that newly-discovered ice cream stand later in the afternoon may have us wicking it up just a bit to put the wheels into the driveway before the night creatures appear. But you do have a Hornet on your motorcycles, yes? A little insurance never hurt anyone, as a deer run in will.
I know when I have a planned route on my Garmin, with that purple line and mile countdown in front of me, I will ALWAYS try to beat the ‘time to destination’ in the lower right-hand corner. It doesn’t matter that there is absolutely no rush, that the day is as beautiful as can be, the roads are terrific, and the route is twistalicious and scenic. It is not that I am a competitive person AT ALL, I have no need to better either an opponent (except when playing pool with Brian – just kiddin’, honey) or Father Time. It is simply that I don’t want an electronic device telling me what I will do. They say timing is everything. There’s a reason that I might be stuck behind the ‘headless driver’ doing 10 miles under the speed limit and I realize it when I pass the fender bender 10 miles up the road. Looking back at last month’s column, I see that time is on my mind. Guess I can’t wait for the days to get longer and warmer – it’s just a beat away. ,
ON THE MARK
The endoFan era
The hole-in-the-wall seafood place we love is run by two 79-year-old people. The male is the fisherman, maître de, waiter, bus boy, bartender, and maintenance man. He is up before dawn, going out in the Potomac in an open boat. He checks the nets, crab pots, and oyster beds before most of us are awake, filets and shucks the catch, and the results are on the tables by lunch. The Cap’n, as local watermen are known, is a wiry man with a shock of unkempt blond curls spilling out from under a trucker’s cap. His faded, restaurant-logo t-shirt is full of holes and his well-worn jeans are held up by a belt and a miracle, as he has no ass to speak of. Genetics and a lifetime of fishing has literally worked his ass off.
The Cap’n is an irascible Vietnam vet. One cold night, we showed up late. The Cap’n was sitting in the bar, so I stuck my head in the door and said, “Tommy, are you open?” The reply came delivered in the gruff, local waterman’s patois, “Julie will cook for you, but I ain’t waitin’ on you!” Some might have been put off, but we knew better. The Cap’n had been in the boat all day, pulling long net poles out of the muddy bottom of the river. I told Julie to make us two dinners, got us some drinks and setups, and we sat down with him at his table. When I became the waiter, his attitude improved quite a bit.
His wife, Julie, cooks using a small, dated kitchen to prepare the best entrees, including a striper the locals call rockfish, fried with a batter that is delightfully crisp, with zero grease. She works alone, moving around the kitchen like a dancer, which is fortunate because her tiny Filipino frame is about all that will fit between the huge gas stoves and the prep tables. She’s a 30-year breast cancer survivor with the energy and spunk of someone far younger, imbued with the same work ethic as her husband. She learned to cook as a caterer in DC, where she worked until she met a certain fisherman. They’ve been together 42 years.
We usually went there on Christmas Eve. Over the years, Betsy and I developed the habit of bussing our own table, taking our plates to the sink in the kitchen so the Cap’n didn’t have to. Late one Christmas eve, we were the only people there. It must have been a big evening, because every table needed to be cleaned. The exhausted Cap’n was asleep on a mattress behind the bar. I grabbed a pad and wrote up our order and Julie got to work on it. As a present, Betsy and I bussed all the tables and got the dining room ready for the next day. Unsurprisingly, they were going to be open on Christmas: the only time we were ever aware of them being closed was when the place was under water from Hurricane Isabel. One year they had a big group there on New Year’s Eve until 3 in the morning, but Julie opened for breakfast at 7 New Year’s Day.
Continued on Page 6
BACKLASH
Hey Shira and Brian....
Hope you guys are doing well. I always look forward to reading your newsletter every Saturday morning. I think the answer to your #353 question is that the report will match the number of Backroads magazine published issues. I will certainly be looking forward to the July issue of your celebrating 30 years of outstanding and continued success. Best regards and as always, ride safe. Your friend, Jerry Gambella
Hi guys,
We haven’t seen you in a while. We attended our first Backroads event a couple years ago at the Pine Barn Inn in Danville PA. We had a great time! This will be our first time riding for full days and not returning to a starting point. Just wondering how long are the riding days (hours/miles)? Any suggestions on packing? We are riding two up on a KTM 2190 with rear stock panniers and a large top box. Thanks, looking forward to Summer. Ken and Teresa
Hey Ken and Teresa,
So glad you’ll be joining us on our Summer Solstice Rally in June. The riding days are up to you as far as the route you’ll take from place to place. We probably will put up ride suggestions, which are not meant to be the only way to get from A to B. The Saturday in Virginia is a free day and you can do anything you like - ride, relax, explore. As we get closer to the date, check our Events webpage for any updates.
Packing is easy: take out what you think you’ll need and put half of it back because it’s always too much. You each get one pannier and have to share the top box, it’s only 5 days at most, so pretty minimal. No tuxedo, fancy gown or high heels necessary.
Seriously though, the ride from hotel to hotel is usually an all-day ride (6 hours?) with a stop for lunch/bathroom/stretch. You can take a look beforehand to see if there are things you’d like to see along the way and you’ll have a better idea of how long it will take you. We are definitely looking forward to the warmer weather, as we are jonesing to get back on two wheels.
I really enjoy your magazine, love On The Mark.
Not only is the language of the streets with the colors on the pavement, the same colors apply when you’re riding. Onthe side of the road with flags in the grass whenthey’re doing construction or irrigation. Something else to look for - a lot of people will never notice or pay attention to. Sincerely,
Mark aka Mooman
Hey Backroads,
I just saw the [February issue] out at my dealership! Guys…. I made the cover?
That was so beyond even my wildest dreams; and the whole page intro! I am absolutely in shock and so beyond ecstatic! Thank you… what an honor! What an adventure it’s been, and the February edition was the magnificent cherry on top of the sundae.
My mom has been carrying an issue around the house strutting like a peacock since I showed her. Is there any way I could place an order for a few more copies? Everyone is trying to claim one! Thank you so much again for all your hard work, it looks amazing!
Warmest Regards, Masha (published author!!!!)
Masha, No… thank you.
You had a great story, and told it so well. Maybe you will be the impetus for other riders/readers that are blazing their own new trails and would like to share their stories with fellow Backroads readers…Hint, hint!
Hi Backroads!,
I’d be interested to get a copy of your February issue of Backroads. I live in Montreal and was wondering if you distribute anywhere near me or if it’s possible to make an order for a single issue.
Thank you!
Catherine LaFortune
Our pleasure to send one your way… you were a memorable part of Masha’s piece.
Free Wheelin’
Continued from Page 5
There is a certain childlike back and forth with your riding family. Like the saucy banter from ‘Buddy Cop’ movies.
It’s the difference between we riders and Earth People. You see, when you are a car-ridden Earth Person, it is like watching a movie go by. A spectator.
But when you are a rider? You are in the movie. Sometimes we are the stars, sometimes it is simply a cameo appearance.
Some of the things that we poke fun at, or some of the hijinks we carry on with The Family, only get cold stares, rolled eyes and a general “Really, Brian?” from the Earth-People dinner table.
But with all the families – the ones you were born or married into and the ones that you met on the road and have spent miles of smiles with – you will always say yes to a request, and go at it - 110% percent.
Like a Zero ADV bike on a BDR video.
I recently did a podcast with a fellow named Vince Villani. I met Vince on a flight to Las Vegas earlier in the year and Vince does awesome podcasts, usually on entrepreneurship and creating and living life.
During this discussion, the thread lead to that whatever we do, we need to be surrounded by like-minded people, and that if doing what you do has dragged along a bunch of others, and has made their lives a bit richer, then you are on the good side of life’s ledger. If your family is behind you and benefits too, then all the better.
So… for The Family out there – and you know who you are…
We turn 30 this year, and if you still want to ride along, we’d be happy to have you. Even the crazy uncles and aunts. ,
on The mark
Continued from Page 5
Circumstances caused us to miss a couple Christmas Eves, but this year I had a feeling. Julie was at Tom’s table in the bar and she admitted to feeling OK, but when I asked about the Cap’n, she said, “He has leukemia.” It’s too long a story, but he’s currently in an ICU undergoing chemo. She would still have the restaurant open if it weren’t for the fact that, the day after Christmas, after serving a party of 20 in the afternoon, she fell and broke her hip. The repair was successful and when we took her for a follow-up ortho appointment a week later, she literally threw her cane to me, grabbed Betsy’s arm, and walked back to see the doctor.
Julie still hangs out at the (closed) restaurant and I went there today to visit. She gave me the latest on the Cap’n’s struggles with chemo, up one day and down the next. I spent some time looking around the restaurant, from the well-worn floor to the cracked bathroom fixtures behind doors marked with signs that say “Buoys” and “Gulls.” Old pictures adorn the walls, most featuring the Cap’n in his boat, surrounded by the fish that have been his livelihood. I tried to take it all in because no matter what happens, I have the sense that it’s the end of an era. There is no business like it in all of Christendom and there never will be. Every scratch, every photo, every tchotchke paints a picture of a place and a people so special that they’re irreplaceable. I wanted to save as much of it as I could to memory because time is cruel and inexorable. It’s not just a riding destination. It’s not just a business. It’s family. ,
CARDO LAUNCHES ‘YOUR RIDE. YOUR RECHARGE.’ CAMPAIGN
Cardo’s new cause-marketing initiative encourages motorcyclists to boost their “happiness batteries” while staying connected through cutting-edge communication devices has launched the ‘Your Ride. Your Recharge.’ campaign. This new cause-marketing initiative encourages riders to prioritize recharging their mental and emotional health, while also supporting the Motorcycle Relief Program—a nonprofit dedicated to helping veterans and first responders cope with PTSD and stress through therapeutic motorcycle adventures. Additionally, the campaign emphasizes keeping communication devices ready for the road. A global survey revealed that for 56% of Cardo users, improving their mental well-being was a core benefit of riding, reaffirming that for many, motorcycling is more than a passion—it’s a vital part of their self-care.
As part of its commitment to the riding community, Cardo is supporting The Motorcycle Relief Project (MRP) with a $10,000 donation and 10 PACKTALK EDGE devices.
Based in the United States, MRP helps veterans and first responders heal from trauma through therapeutic motorcycle rides. The organization’s mission is to honor and encourage military veterans and first responders by providing recreational ADV motorcycling experiences that offer relief from life’s struggles and the challenges of reintegration. MRP creates a positive environment where participants can connect with peers who have had similar experiences, offering tools for stress management, overcoming trauma, and steering participants toward further treatment for their injuries.
KAWASAKI HINTSATTHE RETURNOF KX TWO-STROKE
Did you see it? In a brief segment during TV coverage of the Anaheim 2 Supercross, Kawasaki brand ambassador Jeremy McGrath more than just hinted that the company is planning to offer a production two-stroke dirt bike again, a 125cc or 250cc MX bike, perhaps? TV commentator Adam Cianciarulo, a former career Kawasaki racer, even vouched on air that a Kawasaki two-stroke is indeed coming down the pike, and, on the same day, Kawasaki issued a press release titled: We Heard You.
The release offered just one line: Kawasaki teases new two-stroke model currently in development, #2Stroke, #Kawasaki and #GoodTimes. Check out Kawasaki’s video teaser on YouTube.
BMWHAS BEST SALES YEARSIN THEIR HISTORY
After selling 210,408 bikes in 2024, BMW Motorrad was able to achieve the stron gest sales result in company history. Germany stays the largest market and carries a significant share on the sales record of BMW Motorrad, with the regions Europe, USA, Asia and Latin America.
Strongest arguments for the successful performance in 2024 were the convincing product portfolio with successful and for each segment formative offerings, as well as the market introduction of sought-after new models, like the mighty BMW M 1000 XR and S 1000 XR, the new GS models from the middle class BMW F 800 GS, F 900 GS and F 900 GS Adventure, the casual Heritage models BMW R 12 and R 12 NineT and leading the way, the adventure touring icons BMW R 1300 GS and GS Adventure with the legendary BMW Boxer Engine.
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
exTreme mounT WashingTon norTh ConWay, neW hampshire • mountwashington.org
Mount Washington.
For riders in the northeast, this is a Mecca of sorts, an enigma of nature to others, and to some, it just…. beckons. One wonders what the ancient indigenous people thought of this peak.
When the ancients envisioned the place where their gods lived, this is the scene they created in their mind’s eye – Mount Olympus, as it were. Surely any self-respecting Greek god would be honored to dwell in this residence. It is not surprising that the early local Native Americans in this region refused to climb the mountain they called Agiocochook, considering it to be the sacred home of their gods. The earliest known ascent was by Darby Field in 1642 and did include at least two ‘Indian’ guides. Whether or not they encountered any of their gods was not recorded. In the dark days before the dawn of modern science, humankind attempted to explain the Earth and its natural phenomena by fabricating a fantasy world populated with various divinities who, depending on their disposition could, in turn, calm the winds and push the Sun gently across the heavens – or whip up a frenzy of gusting winds and hurl lightning bolts down upon the frightened populace. Yesterday Mount Washington was a pleasant and placid place to perch. Today, however, the gods are evidently in a foul mood. With fierce, gusty winds, thick fog, and freezing rain enveloping all, we comprehend why the natives and early settlers generally
elected to evade Agiocochook. This is not the case today, in a less and less Mysterious America. It’s Auto Road achieved almost legendary status over the years.
Opened on August 8, 1861, the Mount Washington Auto Road is the oldest man-made and continuously operating tourist attraction in North America. That is something all by itself.
Built by hand using shovels and black powder to clear rocks, the Auto Road ascends over 4,000 feet of elevation in 7.6 miles from scenic Pinkham Notch to the summit of Mount Washington. For most of its history, the road was a rough surface of dirt and then gravel, first traveled by horse and mountain wagon, and then by car at the turn of the century. It has always been a rite of passage for automobiles and drivers, giving credence to the famous bumper sticker: “This Car Climbed Mount Washington.”
The Auto Road saw its first sections of pavement in the early 1970s and sections have been added in subsequent years. Until just a few years back,
only the section of gravel known as the ‘5-mile’ remained as it was the most challenging to pave. Over the past several years, the road crew made many improvements to this section, including widening the surface and increasing the number and size of culverts for water drainage.
Still, it is a challenge as the Auto Road is a steep, narrow mountain road without guardrails. The average grade is 12%. As the sign at the base of the Road states – “If you have a fear of heights, you may not appreciate this driving experience.”
Look where you want to go.
Up on top has seen some of the most severe weather on the planet, and the highest recorded wind speeds. But why such wacky weather here?
Location, location, location…
Normally, wind is slowed by friction from the ground. Air that collides with the summit has not been slowed by this friction, which allows for higher wind speeds on the summit than in the valley. As air is forced upward over the Presidential range, it accelerates through what is called the Venturi Effect. On April 12, 1934 the wind roared to 231 miles per hour.
Can you imagine?
(That record was surpassed in 1996 by a confirmed 253 mph gust on Barrow Island, Australia, during Tropical Cyclone Olivia.)
I took a ride up on a chilly, windless, and blue sky day last season to take a look at the new museum you will find at the summit.
Housed atop Mount Washington in the Sherman Adams Summit Building, this museum gives visitors a hands-on look at Mount Washington’s claim as ‘home of the world’s worst weather.’ Exhibits show how Mount Washington Observatory scientists track climate conditions year-round despite hurricane-force winds and Arctic temperatures. Other exhibits let visitors pilot a simulated snowcat and learn how rime ice is formed.
Rime ice forms when liquid water droplets, like fog, freeze onto exposed
objects in air that is also below freezing. The droplets freeze almost instantly, creating a rough, crystalline deposit of ice that traps air. When this happens, you can actually see it grow.
The museum is cozy, but how big a place can you expect atop a mountain, yet is full of the history of Mount Washington, and the ongoing meteorological studies that happen here.
Many of the actual instruments that created weather history are here on display – such as the Number 2 Heated Anemometer that clocked that 231 MPH blast back in 1934. This device operated with a telegraph that ever-increasing clicks with the increase of wind speed. That day the furious activity created such a barrage of sound that even observers listen in on radio knew that weather history was being made.
Radio equipment and wildlife are also featured here, as well as the notable men and women that were there and continue to keep the mountain’s persnickety weather on record.
When it all comes into perspective I think this mountain still has its secrets, its legends and a place in Mysterious America. O’Life Out!
Warren County Tourism presents
BIG CITY GETAWAY
erie Canal disCovery CenTer
24 ChurCh sTreeT, loCkporT, ny 14094 • niagarahistory.org
“The overflowing blessings from this fountain of public good and national abundance will be as extensive as our own country and as durable as time.” -- DeWitt Clinton
We take the highways and backroads in this nation for granted. For all of our lives, they have been there and travel is relatively easy for people and the moving of vast quantities of products, produce, and goods to and from different parts of the United States.
In the early 1800s the Northwest Territory, which later would become the states of Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois Wisconsin and Wisconsin,
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
had timber, minerals, furs, and fertile land for farming, but the Appalachian Mountains stood in the way; to the east the states had everything else. Throughout the 18th and early 19th centuries, it took weeks to reach these resources overland. Bulk transportation of goods was limited by what teams of oxen could pull by wagon. The lack of an efficient transportation network confined populations and trade to coastal areas.
If the nation was to grow there needed to be a solution to this problem. There needed to be a canal built.
Enter DeWitt Clinton.
In 1809, Thomas Jefferson called the prospect of building a canal through New York “little short of madness.” He loved the idea but didn’t think it was actually possible. This was the prevailing national opinion, and so getting funding from Washington was unlikely.
DeWitt Clinton came from a formidable family, was the Mayor of New York City, and then Governor of the state as well.
The Erie Canal was built and paid for by New York to the tune of $7.2 million dollars… about 1.2 billion dollars today.
The idea of a waterway across the state of New York had been ‘floated’ for many years, but it was Clinton’s push and commitment of the state’s own money that drove the building of a canal that truly changed the future of our nation. The Erie Canal and a system of connecting waterways would fulfill DeWitt Clinton’s prophecy that New York would be America’s preeminent state, populated from border to border and generating wealth for itself and the nation. Soon after the completion of the canal New York City was the nation’s busiest port, most populous city, and foremost seat of commerce and finance. Immigrants knew they could find work there and in many new cities sprouting along the canal.
As it opened the American interior to settlement, the canal brought a flow of people and new ideas. Social reform movements like abolitionism and women’s suffrage, Utopian communities, and various religious movements thrived in the canal corridor. The Erie Canal carried more westbound immigrants than any other trans-Appalachian canal. These newcomers infused the nation with different languages, customs, practices, and religions. In many ways, the opening of one canal created the greatest nation in the history of the world.
The Erie Canal became a 363-mile waterway that connects the Great Lakes with the Atlantic Ocean via the
Hudson River in upstate New York. The channel, which traverses New York state from Albany to Buffalo on Lake Erie, was considered an engineering marvel when it first opened in 1825. The canal transformed New York City into the young nation’s economic powerhouse, and in 2000 the U.S. Congress designated the Erie Canal a National Heritage Corridor.
But when it was being dug, mostly by Scot and Irish immigrants, there was one problem. A big problem.
The Niagara Escarpment is a 450-million-yearold rock formation extending from Western New York through Canada, creating the famous Niagara Falls, and ending in Wisconsin. It needed to be surmounted to get the Erie Canal to the Great Lakes. Differences in elevation on canals are handled by Locks, but at this point, someone had to be brilliant, and that man was Nathan Roberts.
Here, where the town of Lockport is located today, the escarpment was at a fairly low 60 feet, and it was here they sought to conquer it, and complete the waterway, Up till now travelers and products had to make the last bit of the journey by horse-drawn carriage to Lake Erie and beyond. The 60-foot rise was achieved by an audacious plan of five adjacent double locks, each feeding directly into the next, forming a single integrated structure. This “flight” of Lockport locks constitutes the most famous structure
on the Canal, and not only did the locks have to be cut into the rock face of the escarpment but a 7-mile channel varying from 12 to 30 feet deep had to be excavated in the solid rock to allow gravity to feed water from Lake Erie to the canal and complete this engineering marvel. Let’s think of this…seven miles and an average 20 -feet deep SOLID rock. Can you imagine swinging the first pick on this? Here at the Erie Canal Discovery Center, you can discover just how important the canal really was, how hard it was, and what it took to build.
The Discovery Center has a well-produced short film on it, and you can get a better idea of how it worked, and the cultures that grew up around the canal.
The huge mural of the “Flight of Five” is simply amazing, as is the entire museum itself, as well as the worldly collection of Charles Rand Penny who donated artifacts from his travels to the museum as well.
You can visit the ‘Flight of Five,” as it is right across the street, and there is another museum at the foot of the five and a marvelous series of bronze statues depicting canal builders being photographed on the steps of one of the flights.
We often say history is right in front of us if we only search it out. Sometimes it is fun and just slightly important. Sometimes it has changed the world – the Erie Canal changed the world. ,
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN
The loBsTer shaCkaT TWo lighTs 225 TWo lighTs road, Cape elizaBeTh, me 04107 207-799-1677 • lobstershacktwolights.com
On the VisitMaine.com website, they list more than 25 lobsterants, that mainly serve Homarus Americanus, and that is just the ones they listed – we’ll say twice that amount in reality. They all seem to have long lines during the season, and it takes 5,600 + fishermen to fulfill all that need on a daily basis.
That is a lot of sea bugs for sure.
We have visited a good deal of these places over the years. Red’s, Hartaseeket, and Five Island – all of which are deserved to be in the Great All American Diner Run; but this month we’d like to add one more… and not only does The Lobster Shack at Two Lights serve up some great seafood – they have one of the best locations for a lobsterant we have ever experienced.
Cape Elizabeth is a very genteel town, one of the wealthiest in the state, and is home to a few lighthouses, one being the Portland Head Light, the oldest in Maine, as well as the Twin Lights where we will find The Lobster Shack.
For more than a century The Lobster Shack has been serving up lobsters, lobster rolls, clams, haddock, and soups - clam chowder and lobster stew – in addition, they have some regular landlubber offerings. We rolled up on a bright, sunny, and perfect Sunday, and seeing the number of cars in the lot were ready and willing to wait in line, which we would. Parking the bike, that we had two-upped on, was simple and easy. Located right on the edge of the Atlantic they have a wide spread that is dotted with nautical statues, and mobiles and the view of the one lighthouse across the way is outstanding, but was eclipsed by the view to the sea.
tasty places to take your bike
The
one thinks about when talking about this state. It was low tide at this time, and a stroll out on the rocks was in order… but first lunch. As long as the line was, it seemed to move at a quick and steady pace. The Lobster Shack has dozens of bright red picnic tables spread across their wide property, just above the coming and going tide, so we knew we would get a table. Waiting in a line like this is what you make it, and an attitude of gratitude works best. We met a couple of families while on the queue – lo-
The Lobster Shack at Two Lights lies directly above the rocky shore of Maine.
shore
cals, travelers like us, those who had their favorite Lobster Shack meal – the haddock seemed to be a big-time winner here. Maybe next time.
Shira got a Lobster Roll Boat and I ordered the Lobster Dinner and a Clam Chowder. Both were served with outstanding French fries, pickles and coleslaw.
At the table, we met a couple from out of state - and the talk went quickly from lobster to motorcycles, as they both were riders too. That happens a lot, does it not?
Shira had ordered a big slice of Strawberry Rhubarb Pie that was perfect –not too tart, not too sweet – simply a great way to finish off a superb lunch
on the rocky coast of Maine. Speaking of the rocky coast, it was time for our postprandial walk.
Carefully walking (very carefully) out to the rocks we looked back at the still large crowd of happy Sunday afternoon folk chowing down on lobster and such, and wondered if there was an orthopedic surgeon in the house. You will want to pick and choose your steps here.
The bedrock at Two Lights State Park is phyllite, a soft metamorphic rock composed of layers of dark mica and quartzite. Because of its slatey nature, phyllite splinters into rectangular rods or blades. The rocks went as far as one could see up and down this part of Maine.
It was amazing to see, and up close many of the pieces of rock looked almost like weathered wood.
We spent a good deal of time on the rocks, taking in the view, the smell, and the feel of the Maine coast in late summer.
Little creatures were biding their time in shallow pools created when the tide rolled out a few hours before, and soon this entire section of coast would be swallowed up when the Atlantic decided to go the other way. It was a good place to just sit and Zen. That attitude of gratitude thing again. Everyone should take a ride up along the coast –off-season is a bit best, and trust us, it is good for the body and good for the soul. ,
Wytheville VA Tourism presents
WE’RE OUTTA HERE
delaWare WaTer gap
A Weekend Mix of Sword & Sorcery, Sake & Jazz
From a distance, the famed Gap that channels the Delaware River south from its Catskill beginnings is a huge exclamation point on the landscape. To the west is Mount Minsi, to the east is Mount Tammany, and between the two peaks the Gap spread a full mile; on the water, the Gap is still impressive at about 1,300 feet.
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
For years these rudimentary roads gave the right-of-way to a trolley and the NY, S & W railway but that fell away during the coming of the automobile and I-80 on its way east and west.
There was a time when that Delaware Water Gap was THE place for Summer.
Built in 1829 the Kittatinny Hotel was the first resort hotel in the area. It started as a 25-room property but expanded to over 500 rooms. The hotel featured a ballroom, bar, tennis courts, fountains, and a veranda with views
To be sure there is a long geological explanation for the Delaware Water Gap to be here, but let’s keep it simple and say it is one of many, but perhaps the most, visually stunning gaps that cut through what the native people called The Long Mountain – the tall sharp ridge that runs from New York State, through the top of New Jersey and into Pennsylvania; all remnants of continental drift and the last Ice Age.
This is rugged country, and it was not until 1793 that a basic road was carved out of the steep cliffs on the western side of the river, and decades more before New Jersey hammered out a road through the rock as well.
of the Delaware River. Other large hotels followed, but few have survived the test of time.
The Castle Inn was the last of the great hotels to be built in Delaware Water Gap and was built in 1906 by Dimmick Drake. Fred Waring (of Waring Blender fame) purchased the Castle Inn in 1952. Decades ago, this legendary entertainer ran his music empire from the property, and recently, the sound of song filled the space once again. Waring and The Pennsylvanians performed on network TV and radio, creating a string of hits and selling millions of records. Waring began The Pennsylvanians in the 1920s
and went on to record with Frank Sinatra and Bing Crosby. Band members became professors, performers, TV personalities, and pageant queens. Jacquelyn Mayer was crowned Miss America two years after becoming a Pennsylvanian under Fred Waring.
Right across the street The Central House was built by Samuel Overfield and is now The Deer Head Inn, the oldest Jazz Club in the world. We spent a great Sunday evening there with friends listening to some very cool Jazz, and then took a room, as The Deer Head has comfortable rooms as well.
During the riding season, The Deer Head would make an awesome home base to spend a few nights to soak up some superb Jazz, as well as the great miles of terrific backroads that are sprinkled through the region. The place
has great food, big porch and a wonderful jazzy feel to it. For those who are lovers of sword & sorcery, we have a special treat just a few miles north, with a visit to the Frazetta Art Museum. Frank was the undisputed King of this genre’ of artists, and at the museum you can see where he created his fantastical art, as well as so many of his great pieces, many of which are part of the American Zeitgeist. Back in Water Gap, with bikes parked (thank you) take a stroll to Sango Kura Sake, the first and only sake brewery in Pennsylvania. Take a flight, both literally and figuratively here, and enjoy some seriously great and varied sake, and while at Sango Kura order up some of their izakaya Japanese cuisine too – a very cool place to unwind after a hard day’s charge around northeastern Pennsylvania, and the Poconos.
Speaking of… click on our link for an entertaining day-ride loop from the Deer Head Inn. This ride will pass by some great points of interest in addition to all we just spoke about…Columcille Megalith Park is beyond words (so why try?), and George Child Park, along Silver Lake Road, with its glorious waterfalls has just re-opened after being shut down for years, and the waterfalls at Raymondskill are worth the stop too, so enjoy! www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/93ngr2
79 Canal sT, loCkporT, ny • 716-201-1643 • lakeeffecticecream.com
Open
Year Round • also: 1900 Hertel Ave, Buffalo, NY
Jason Wulf and Erik Bernardi grew up in the same neighborhood in Lockport, NY. They both became high school teachers (art and science, respectively) and happened to both own ice cream makers. This last fact brought the two into a friendly competition, the winner being the one to create the weirdest and most exotic flavor.
(Hmmm, this sounds very familiar to the ‘friendly’ competition I had with my brother, although he would go the ghost pepper ice cream route while I just wanted to make the best ginger ice cream for our mother.)
Anyway, Jason and Erik entered their ice cream into a summer festival and did so well, with Jason’s packaging/ graphics and the deliciousness of their ice cream, they got their first placement in a Lockport grocery store. From there, it was on to more grocery stores and specialty shops and opening their own scoop shop in 2008. Even with the growing success of their ice cream business, they continued teaching high school – very dedicated guys, I’d say.
They are both very loyal to their community and show it by using so many local business products in their ice cream – from farms to apiaries, bakeries to vineyards – Lake Effect Ice Cream utilizes the best this region of New York State has to offer.
For those who have grown up or spent time in that area, you might be familiar
with Crystal Beach Loganberry – which is the same syrup used in their Loganberry ice cream. Similarly, Chrusciki Bakery supplies their Placek cake for the Cinnamon Toast ice cream topping. One of their more unusual flavors, The Aud, is a mix of beer, pretzel and peanut ice cream which might bring back memories to hockey fans and drinkers of Labatt’s Blue.
Calling yourself ‘artisanal’ has become somewhat of a fad, but Jason and Erik have kept to the true meaning of the word. They make batches of super premium ice cream no larger than 40-50 pints, with each pint hand-packed, topped and labeled. Because of this method, they are able to be truly creative and fluid with their experimentation of flavors, tweaking the recipe and evolving their often favorite flavors into even better ones. Of course, not every flavor is a winner – such as a root beer flavor that must never be spoken of, but those ‘mistakes’ most often lead to great discoveries elsewhere.
As the saying goes, with great power comes great responsibility, and the power of ice cream is surely a tremendous one. So much so, that ten years after opening their shop in Lockport, Jason and Erik opened their second one on Hertel Ave in Buffalo.
Both shops have indoor and
outdoor seating to enjoy your dessert. The Lockport location sits at the edge of the Flight of Five on the Erie Canal, which you just read about in this month’s Big City Getaway. That said, and since there are so many choices, you can order up either a Flight of Five or Nine flavors to satisfy your ice cream urges.
Here are just a very few that piqued my taste buds: Englishman in New York: Ghirardelli chocolate ice cream infused with Earl Grey tea and fudgy chunks mixed in. Whiskey Brown Sugar: Tennessee Sour Mash whiskey blended with sweet cream and brown sugar. Silver Cloud Vanilla: Made with vanilla from the Blue Mountains of India – the most amazing vanilla EVER! Lake Effect Warm Front Float Chocolate S’more: Frozen hot chocolate ice cream with hot chocolate, toasted marshmallows, chocolate-covered graham crackers and a side of syrup.
Some of their most popular flavors are Peanut Butter Epiphany, Frozen Hot Chocolate and Revolution Coffee. I am going out on a limb, but bet that whatever flavor you choose will be one of the most delicious ice creams you have ever tasted. I look forward to my next visit to this part of New York to enjoy some of Jason and Erik’s culinary delights. ,
Old Soul
Track Experience, and numerous automakers have chosen the park as their stage for vehicle debuts and to film commercials.
MotoAmerica holds a round of their National Series here, as does IndyCars.
Barber, ‘Bama and the Blues
words + images: Brian Rathjen
This story has its beginning three decades, and then some, back when racer and businessman George Barber envisioned a great motorsports museum of worldly fame. Oh, when I say racer, I mean winning racer. Barber had 63 first-place wins driving Porsches during the 60s.
There were already a great many car museums so George turned his eyes, and very creative mind, to the world of motorcycles. He started with a small collection of Hondas, but it was the gift of a 1952 Victoria Bergmeister that truly lit the collecting bonfire for which Barber will be forever remembered.
Originally the museum was located in a parking garage in southside Birmingham, but as his collection grew and the huge success of the famed ‘Art of the Motorcycle’ show, to which Barber had sent 21 motorcycles, further inspired him to want to create the ultimate museum dedicate to our twowheel passion.
The thrill of the New York exhibit sparked a much bigger dream for Barber. “We can do this in Birmingham!” he maintained. Barber set out to create a one-of-a-kind, world-class facility. Going even further, he imagined a road course as well, where the “living museum” quality of the collection could be demonstrated.
A sprawling Birmingham landscape was required to accommodate the large scale of Barber’s dream. Consulting with world champion racers John Surtees and Dan Gurney, uncommon precision drove the design of the complex. In September 2003, the 880-acre park, with its world-class 16-turn, 2.38-mile racetrack, opened to the public. The track is home to the Porsche
But it is the incredible museum, the idea that started it all, that is Barber’s crown jewel. With its creative architecture and great attention to detail, the museum is home to over 1,800 motorcycles that span over 100 years of production. More than 1,000 bikes can be seen on any given day, and 200 different manufacturers from 22 countries are represented in the collection—from Harley-Davidson, Honda, and Indian to Showa, DSK, and Cagiva. The museum also holds a most impressive collection of cars as well as a complete restoration and design shops.
The ample grounds are full of interesting art, statues, and whimsy. It is a fun and happy place to spend an easy few days, and 19 years ago they began the Barber Vintage Festival – celebrating the great machines that brought motorcycling to where it is today.
We had been to Barber a few years back, and were astounded at how immense and impressive the place was, but we had heard that the Vintage Festival was truly magnificent.
Early last year we made plans to go. It would be a superb cap on a superb riding year.
Southbound
We arrived in Atlanta and picked up two machines from Triumph Motorcycles which have their corporate headquarters just outside the sprawling southern city.
The British bike maker was kind enough to spare us a 2024 Tiger 900 Rally Pro, with its white trellis frame, green khaki livery and full luggage set-up, and a Speedmaster 900 Twin. I would happily be the mule on this trip, leaving Shira with a smaller, but powerful, Triumph Twin on which to scoot around.
After picking up the machines at Triumph’s Atlanta facility, we headed
over to our friends Jim and Marilyn, who live in Marietta, just north of the city, for a great dinner and catching up – all the while watching, more or less quietly, the Mets play Philly for the division title on Shira’s phone tucked to one side of the table. They could care less about baseball, but the game was a big one. All went well until Lindor’s Grand Slam – and then all baseball and riding gloves were off and we turned the phone up.
I will refrain from the rest of this past baseball season except to say the Mets, who were so far back in May, beat the Phillies in the playoffs and took the east. Brad? Oh, Brad….Ice Cream, brother! Lots of ice cream.
Day One to Birmingham
After a quick breakfast, we said our goodbyes and made our way through the north Atlanta morning rush, with a quick stop at Truist Park, the home of the Atlanta Braves, and a photo op. LFGM! We continued meandering west, trying to run along Georgia’s better backroads.
A few hours later we said goodbye to the Peachtree State and hello to Alabama, sweet home that it is.
We spun down on Route 281, known locally as The Skyway Motorway, through the Talladega National Forest. This road reminded us of a compact
version of the Blue Ridge Parkway, with great vista pull-offs, decent pavement, and lots of pleasant curves and elevation changes.
Before it was bought by the federal government in the 1930s, the area that composes the forest was extensively logged and represented some of the most abused, eroded wastelands in all of Alabama. Almost a century later pine forests now host a diverse ecosystem, and is a huge win for Alabama. It surely is stunning now, and the road also crosses the highest point in the Yellow Hammer State, 2,407 feet at Cheaha Park.
There is a push to continue the Appalachian Trail from its present start/end point at Springer Mountain, in Georgia, to this point, but this is being met with great resistance from Alabama’s neighbors to the east. We continued through the park and then north to Talladega Superspeedway with its 2.66-milelong tri-oval – the largest on the NASCAR circuit.
We know that the Barber Museum is the ultimate for motorcyclists, but if you are a fan of Stock Cars, and NASCAR, then you must visit the International Motorsports Hall of Fame in Talladega. Three large buildings holding the history of
NASCAR, some of the greatest racers and memorabilia are to be seen. Their Hall of Fame will stun even the most diehard race aficionados – as it holds not just NASCAR – but all motorsports genres with a Hall of Fame that truly showcases so many important names and faces from all motorsports during the last 100 years.
We spent a worthy amount of time perusing the museum, and then found a little Mexican joint for lunch before making the last short bit towards Birmingham – the Steel City. I had routed along Logan-Martin Lake and then over the mountain towards Barber Motorsports, but just short of our goal we came upon an ‘incident’. Road closed, and chopper on the way – these things are never good so we said a prayer to all involved, made a quick U-Turn, and took Plan B, this time straight to our hotel for the next bunch of nights right outside downtown Birmingham.
Day Two - Vintage Festival at Barber Motorsports Museum
It was a short ride to the museum, track, and gardens – or is it gardens, track, museum?
George Barber once said he made a giant garden and then laid a track inside it.
This is the single most important spot on the planet to celebrate the art that is motorcycles. As we said it was the Guggenheim’s Art of the Motorcycle Show that got George thinking about doing something in his hometown of Birmingham that would be better. We think he has handily accomplished this. We arrived and had the pleasure of spending a good part of the day with some fellow moto-scribes, as Robert Pandya, an old friend who was handling the media relations for the museum, took us on a tour of what is new at Barber – and there is always something new.
This day would see the induction of not one, but two Grand Prix Champions with the same name to be brought into the Barber Hall of Fame - King Kenny Roberts and his son, Kenny Roberts Jr.
As we rode up in the elevator to the museum’s state-of-the-art design center, the elevator was held while staff rolled King Kenny’s Grand Prix Championship Yamaha YZR500 onto the elevator.
I have been in elevators with lots of good-looking gals, but none as exotic as this lass. Yellow and Black worked so well on her. I touched her. Twice. (Happy Happy, Joy Joy!)
We had a short van ride to see the first time the gate would drop on Barber’s newest Vintage Motocross Track and then sat in on a very interesting chat between Kenny Roberts and moto-legend Kevin Cameron.
Later that day both Roberts were honored with their induction, and they even started the Yamaha – which sounded splendid – but even better the next day when King Kenny did a couple, three, laps of the track – to everyone’s delight.
We took in the rest of the museum, which is really impossible to describe with simple words and images. The Barber Museum must be seen to understand, absorb, and see how George Barber’s idea of the greatest motorcycle museum in the world not only came to pass… but surpasses all other museums. It is registered with Guinness Book of Records as the largest motorcycle museum in the world.
Most museums show you the past. Fine. Great. We love it. But Barber not only looks back on motorcycling’s history and the legends of its past, but
they are actively looking towards motorcycling’s future, and how things can be done better, more efficiently, and, of course, even more beautifully. It is a worthy mission and one this museum has handily taken on with its Design Center.
We watched just a bit of the vintage racing practice that day and saved the major walking for the next.
That night we met with our friend Helene, who had ridden down from New York, and had a great meal in the center of Birmingham’s Historic Center, stopping for a photo-op at the Heaviest Corner on Earth. Hang tough kids; I am sure O’Life will get around to telling you all about it, and then take credit for the find too.
Back to Barber
The next day we returned, took in some of the museum we might have missed, and walked the grounds. The demo rides were in full swing and thousands of racing machines, vintage bikes, and moto fans poured in.
The Fan Zone was packed with a goodly number of vendors and industry-related companies selling all sorts of moto-wares. There were a bunch of food trucks, so eating was easy and good, and the track was very busy – but the highlight was Kenny Roberts doing laps with that bike.
Amazing to see, as was the rest of the day’s racing overseen by the American Historical Racing Motorcycle Association – or AHRMA.
Seeing machines that we grew up on still racing, and racing really well, was so much fun. Also in attendance is the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle
Association. Backroads has been involved with this organization for a number of years, and they truly keep the love and interest in these classic machines alive. Both these organizations help keep our sport vibrant, fun, and moving forward – and to bring this all together for a long weekend at the greatest Motorcycle Mecca on the planet is nothing less than outstanding.
The Swap Meet area was gigantic and, as with all swap meets, you need to take that long walk around letting your eyes dance over someone’s junk till you find that treasure you must have.
Towards the end of the day we focused on the incredible amount of art that George Barber has sprinkled about the grounds. It is, as I said, full of whim-
sy, and beauty. We walked the bridges over the track and watched some mid-80s Japanese machines duke it out, and then continued on to walk the trails, by the waterfall and the hidden stone gazebo.
It is a very special place – and not what you expect from a motorsports park.
Birmingham is known for a lot of things – food is certainly one, and barbecue may be at that forefront. The Golden Rule Bar-B-Que claims to be the oldest in the nation. It was started in 1891 and has been doing business in Irondale, Alabama since. We won’t argue, and certainly not complain, as their Bar-B-Que was incredibly delicious, the staff about as friendly as can be.
The Golden Rule is minutes from Barber Motorsports and well worth remembering if you go to next year’s Vintage Festival.
Final Day at the Vintage Festival
We have been to Birmingham before, and we wanted to see how Rickwood Field had changed since we were there a couple of years back. For those who are into baseball as we are, you know that Rickwood Field is the oldest ballpark in the United States. Opening in August of 1910 this field had some of the greatest players in baseball swing bats in this regal park. We had written about it in our June 2021 issue and had made the case to MLB that something should be done to secure, elevate and protect this great national treasure.
Last year Major League Baseball did just that with a game that featured a matchup between the San Francisco Giants and the St. Louis Cardinals. This choice was fitting as Willie Mays, who passed away the week of the game, spent most of his MLB career with the Giants.
We can’t say it was our article that got the flame under MLB butts, but we can’t say it wasn’t either.
We rode over first thing on Sunday morning and the Field looked fantastic – it seems like the MLB PrimeTime visit did the venerable ballpark well. Excellent.
We rode by the Sloss Furnaces National Landmark. It operated as a pig iron-producing blast furnace from 1882 to 1971. After closing, it became one of the first industrial sites in the U.S. to be preserved and restored for public use. Huge, rusty, and imposing it is a deep and imposing piece of Birmingham’s history.
On our way out we spotted a neat low-slung building with the name Dr. Pepper Bottling Company across the front. About a hundred years ago the growing demand for the Texas-based Dr. Pepper Soda required new plants to be established – one in Dallas and a second for expansion East of the Mississippi River in Birmingham. Both were considered state-of-the-art at their time and both were, oddly enough, located on 2nd Avenues in their respective cities.
Today the old plant is a mix of fresh farm market, shops and restaurants.
We found breakfast at a restaurant boldly called Big Bad Breakfast – the shrimp & grits, and their Low Country Scramble were just that.
By early afternoon we rode back to the festival, taking in the final Vintage Races of the weekend, before one quick run through the museum, looking for the odd corner here and there we might have missed. We had a bunch of miles to do the next day, so the night was an early one.
Memphis
Walking in Memphis
I was walking with my feet ten feet off of Beale Marc Cohen
We got an early start from the Steel City and began to meander in a west by northwest manner, crossing into Mississippi just west of Vernon, Alabama, with no fanfare, parade, or even an Ol’ Miss sign.
We stopped in the town of Armory to restock tanks and bodies and then stuck on smaller backroads to a little house outside of Tupelo.
It was this humble home that, on January 8, 1935, Elvis Aaron Presley came into the world, and music, Gospel, the Blues, and old-style country would begin to meld into what we call Rock & Roll.
Of course, next to the humble tworoom house, there is a modern museum, and gift shop – let’s never miss the gift shop.
Elvis would be… I don’t think he’d like it at all.
Our route ran through a sparse area, with bits of swampland, mixed with cotton fields. We rode past one lone house, an older black man, sitting on a rocking chair tilting back and forth. He looked up from his thoughts (or maybe his iPhone), and hawkishly watched us both roll by.
I gave him a nod and wave and he beamed a toothy smile and with an approving nod of his chin waved back. When you get a toothy smile and wave from an old black man sitting in a rocking chair deep in the backcountry of Mississippi you know you are doin’ good. Giggity Giggity!
We continued on and rode through Holly Springs National Forest, and got lucky when we ignored a “Road Closed – Bridge Out” sign and discovered a perfectly brand spankin’ new bridge, sans workers and LEO on this Columbus Day Monday.
The next bit of construction, as we crossed into Tennessee and approached Memphis, had a detour push us across the Mississippi and into Arkansas. We tagged the “Natural State,” and then crossed back to Memphis and found our hotel at the bottom of Beale Street, right along the mighty river.
It was just dusk when we strolled out for some great fried chicken at Gus’s, (The World’s Best dontcha know?), and then took a long meandering stroll down Beale Street for some great Blues.
If you have never been to Memphis, Beale Street is short but has more soul, blues, and history than just about any street in the country.
In Rock & Roll and the Blues, everybody who is anybody has played along the small piece of historic Memphis. We passed dozens of bars – each one with a singer crying the blues better than the last.
We sat in one large outside bar and listened to Cowboy Neal and The Trump Tight Band play half a dozen covers from Stax, Sun, and Motown artists. They were awesome. There is so much to see and it is good to keep your eyes peeled for the unexpected – one being the Billy Bass Adoption Center at the small Flying Fish restaurant. In Memphis, bring in your Billy Bass and get a free order of catfish and fame. The walls are covered with the popular toy from the 1990s, along with their customer’s names and dates of adoption. We finished the night at the Peabody Hotel’s opulent bar, but sadly with no ducks in sight.
Sun, Stax, and Soulville USA
Our route this day would head south along the Great River Road (Not so great hereabouts), and then east; but first, there was a bit of history to take in. It would be almost a sin to be in this city and not to go past the National Civil Rights Museum, and pay some silent respects. This museum speaks of the rights of all men and women, and it is built around the Lorraine Motel, where Doctor Martin Luther King was assassinated on April 4, 1968. It is a very popular destination, so plan ahead, and be aware that is will be crowded with dreaded bus people.
Sadly so was Sun Records; but we did stroll around the recording studios that started Elvis, Johnny Cash, and many others.
Sun was great, but for us we had managed our miles and time to visit Stax and the Museum of American Soul.
Here you have a self-guided tour through the very heart and SOUL (all CAPS, baby!) of some of the greatest music in American history. Much like Motown in Detroit, Stax Records gave our nation a groove, a beat, and flair all its own.
Artists like Sam & Dave, Booker T & the M.G.s, The Mar-Keys, The Staple Singers, Albert King, Otis Redding, and Isaac Hayes. We truly took our time through Stax, and it was everything we thought and hoped it would be.
Now early afternoon we headed south and then east (sorta) cutting through the Tallahatchie Wildlife Refuge and Holly Springs National Forest. Along the way there were miles, and miles, and miles of cotton fields… some as far as you could see. Some of them were being harvested – giant John Deere machine grabbing, threshing, and baling them all at once.
Fields were full of bales the size of a small garage. Other fields were being torched, with smoke sometimes blotting the road.
Things were not all that monetized here in this part of Mississippi, and the small towns found, sparsely sprinkled along the cotton fields did not seem like much, if anything at all.
The previous day we were picky about where we’d eat.
Today the burger and chicken from the little roadside shack, in the tiny ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ Crenshaw, aptly called the Snack Shack, was perfect, and the little cat making friends with us almost came back to Jersey.
We picked up the famed Natchez Trace Parkway, just east of Houston.
Yes, there is a Houston in Mississippi too.
The parkway runs 444 miles from Natchez in the south to Nashville to the north. It roughly follows the “Old Natchez Trace,” a historic travel corridor used by American Indians, “Kaintucks,” European settlers, slave traders, soldiers, and even future presidents.
Well paved, and lightly traveled, we can not see why anybody would not take this way if needing to go north or south in these states.
It seems that every few miles a piece of history calls to you, and running the Trace this late afternoon, with golden light lighting up the magnolia trees, and cotton fields, while an almost full moon rose to the east was stunning.
We stayed right outside Tupelo, in a Spark Hotel, just opened a few months back. Spark is part of the Hilton umbrella of hotels, and offers great modern, well-thought-out rooms, at a great price.
A true American treasure.
Muscle Shoals - Alabama’s Musical Secret Weapon
So far, we had been riding in a dreamy low 70s – more mid-September, not October. But that night temps dropped and we started in the mid40s, and barely touched 60 all day.
That’s why we bring layers, Hedz, and ride with well-made and versatile Roadcrafters from Aerostich.
We rode up the Natchez Trace –stopping at the Pharr Indian Mounds.
Around 2,000 to 1,800 years ago native peoples built the Pharr Mounds, a complex of eight dome-shaped mounds, spread over 90 acres (think 100 football fields). It is one of the largest ‘Middle Woodland Era’ mound sites in the region, and Pharr Mounds was near a sizable village. The people there attracted trade for everyday items and ceremonial objects. Way before Columbus there was a vast trading network stretched from the southeastern US to the shores of Lake Ontario. Over hundreds of linked trails, objects of copper, mica, greenstone, and shell found their way to Pharr Mounds. People from small local villages then came here to obtain exotic goods.
Cultures around the world and across time have built monuments and lasting memorials. Mounds like these are some of the earliest remaining monuments in North America. The Trace has many along the parkway. The Bear Creek Mound, at the border with Mississippi and Alabama, is against the road and is impossible to miss.
We stopped to hike to the Old Trace, which the parkway is built along.
Here there were graves of 13 unknown Confederate Soldiers. As fitting we stopped, and left a coin and prayer on each stone.
War sucks. War between brothers sucks more. We vectored into Muscle Shoals to take a tour of the famed recording studio that has been part of so much Rock & Roll.
Although FAME Studios, also in Muscle Shoals, had so many hits and groups, we wanted to visit where
The Swampers called home…
3614 Jackson Hwy.
The New York Times called the Muscle Shoals sound “Indigenous American music, a distinctly Southern amalgamation of rhythm & blues, soul, and country music”.
The four founders of the studio, Barry Beckett, Roger Hawkins, Jimmy Johnson and David Hood, were session musicians at Rick Hall’s FAME Studios; they were officially known as the Muscle Shoals Rhythm Section but widely referred to as “The Swampers,” who were recognized as having crafted the “Muscle Shoals sound” in conjunction with Hall.
The Muscle Shoals Rhythm Section was the first group of musicians to own a studio and to eventually run their own publishing and production companies. They provided musical backing and arrangements for many recordings, including major hits by Wilson Pickett, Aretha Franklin, and the Staple Singers; a wide range of artists in popular music also recorded hit songs and complete albums at the studio. They had first worked together in
1967 and initially played sessions in New York and Nashville before doing so at FAME. Their initial successes in soul and R&B led to more mainstream rock and pop performers who began coming to record at Muscle Shoals Sound Studios, including the Rolling Stones (Brown Sugar and Wild Horses were recorded here – illegally), Bob Dylan, Duane Allman, Traffic, Bob Seger, Glenn Frey, Elton John, Paul Simon, Boz Scaggs, Willie Nelson, Dr. Hook and so many more.
Getting to tour the biggest small studio in recording history was amazing. Hearing the opening chords to Old Time Rock & Roll played on the very piano it was recorded on…outstanding!
Before leaving this bit of Alabama there was one last piece of history to seek out; and it is very odd that in a region so rich in sound, rhythm, and music that the town’s most famous person that could not hear it, nor see it…Helen Keller was born just a few miles from Muscle Shoals.
At the age of 19 months, Keller became very ill with a high fever, leaving her to-
tally deaf and blind. Doctors at that time diagnosed it as “brain fever.”
Experts today believe she suffered from scarlet fever or meningitis. We all know her amazing story and that of her mentor and teacher the amazing Anne Sullivan. The grounds of Helen’s home are a testament to overcoming such utter darkness, with accolades from around the globe, and it is so worth visiting while in the region.
From there we took to the south through the Bankhead National Forest and then began heading east through Alabama, along the Tennessee River, and the lakes that were created from the Tennessee Valley Act to increase the navigability of the river.
Lake Guntersville is a 75-mile-long scenic beauty, that has roadways linked by a series of bridges. Some of the best fishing in the nation can be found in these waters and riding away from the lake, up towards the town of Section the view and the sunset was amazing –only outdone by the full Moon rising in the other direction.
Shira spotted a park that might be a great camera spot, and with daylight running out, and temperatures plummeting as the sun set – she carried on to the hotel we booked in Fort Payne, and I doubled back for that Kodak moment.
Riding solo back east the Full Harvest Moon was a monster that totally ate the middle of the road and horizon. It was an outstanding Luna moment, minutes after a stellar Solar one..
Georgia on my mind
When I was putting together a route east from Alabama and into the northwestern hills of Georgia, I came across something special, so I routed us there first. Usually, we both know where we are going – but not all the time.
I told Shira I had a surprise for her and to trust me. Being a 35-year ‘Fall Girl’ for my BS, she said sure! Really? O.K., then follow me.
Earlier in the week we had been befriended by a little Tabby kitten, and I knew that Shira was missing her shadow and protector Spenser, and I thought I would give her a Big Cat Feline Fix; so I brought her to Tigers for Tomorrow. This facility is located on 140 acres on Untamed Mountain and is both an animal preserve and environmental educational center providing a permanent home to over 160 animals including tigers, lions, bears, wolves, lynx, and black leopards.
They have lots of tigers. More than I have ever seen in one place.
Shira was easily dupped when I made a turn, on a tiny country road, into a Baptist Church, and then starting to believe I was just having her chase me around the Alabama backroads; and when we turned up the dirt road leading to Tigers for Tomorrow she was one seriously happy camper. They had lions, tigers AND bears! Oh my.
They even had a camel.
We spent a few hours there and then happily went in search of another elusive animal – a dragon.
The South do like their dragons, and the Alabama Dragon is a very serpent-like road designated Highway 25 by the state. It is just 20 or so miles long, but it is a wild ride! It looked great on a map, but I didn’t consider why a road would twist and turn like this in the first place. Then, as we rode past, we glanced to the right at one vista and jaw-dropped in the helmets.
We were riding along the Little River Canyon. This river is unique, as it runs almost entirely atop a long mountain.
Little River Canyon is one of the most spectacular landforms in this region, carved into the flat top of Lookout Mountain and reaching depths in excess of 600 feet in some sections. It is one of the deepest canyon systems east of the Mississippi River and the deepest in the state of Alabama. It is spectacular, and for us, totally unexpected.
Oh, if you ride the Alabama Dragon, ride with care, as there are a few big boulders, splitting the road in two when you least expect it.
When ‘would’ you expect that? So be forewarned.
We rode across the border with Georgia, lost an hour in time, and traveled a bit north and east on what was once the Trail of Tears, the forced migration of the Cherokee people from their homelands in Georgia and the southeastern United States to Indian Territory (present-day Oklahoma) in the late 1830s. Not our best moment as a young nation.
For once we actually finished our day’s ride in the Suches region ‘before’ the sun set… in time for dinner and a game.
This part of Georgia is superb for motorcycle riding. I once said it might be the best riding region of the nation. I will stick with this and agree with myself for once.
The best riding in the United States is here in this region. If you have never explored the backroads of the Peach Tree State’s northwest corner – make room on your bucket list!
In the morning we did a quick and spirited ride to a museum we had spotted the previous day – Expedition Bigfoot. This past summer I have stopped at a number of these “Cryptid” museums, and we have to tell you Expedition
Bigfoot is a very amazing museum. They have the largest collection of real footprint casts in the United States, and their displays, videos, and artifacts will truly amaze, and maybe sway you to believe in the elusive Sasquatch –who we know is naturally out of focus.
We spun back around to TWO Motorcycle Resort, and spent a bit of time with owner Bill Johnston, and his brother Charlie, and talked to a few of the other riders that seem to roll in and out of TWO on a constant basis. It is a very cool place. They have cabins, the lodge, and much more to offer, and there is a good reason that TWO is one of the most popular motorcycle destinations in the nation.
But, as we know, all good things must end…yup, yup, yup.
Remarkably, Triumph wanted their motorcycles back – would you believe it? Oh well, we did have a flight to catch, so we slowly meandered down from the north Georgia hill country, towards the West End section of Atlanta and Triumph.
Our 10-day Barber, ‘Bama and the Blues journey certainly took in a lot. We spent three days exploring the greatest motorcycle museum in the world, and a superb vintage festival weekend as well. We saw some great racing, took in a serious NASCAR Hall of Fame, got to hang with one King, and traveled to the birthplace of another.
We looked for monsters that may be out there, and some other feline beasts that certainly are. We rode along one of the deepest canyons in North America on a very serious motorcycle road. We rode through miles of cotton fields where the blues got its soul and to some of the greatest music studios that made sure the rest of the world heard and felt that soul as well.
It is amazing what you see, discover, and experience when you ride with an easy southern comfort. ,
KERSHAW OUTCOME RAINBOW KNIFE
Over the last few years, we have become fans of Kershaw knives. Their quality is unsurpassed, and although they offer an incredible variety of sizes and styles, we have stuck with their smaller Scallion blades - simply for the com fortable size and usefulness.
But when we recently got a look at their new designs and styles, Shira fell in lust at first sight with the new Kershaw Outcome Rainbow Knife.
When she showed it to me, I could utterly understand why. Both the blade and handle feature an eye-catching, polished rainbow PVD finish. Eye-catching is a huge understatement. This is a snazzy-looking knife. Almost too pretty to carry for day-to-day use. But she will. It opens with a snappy assisted lever, and the drop point blade will handle almost any work task. The Outcome locks securely in place with a steel frame lock. Added jimping delivers a secure grip while unlocking the knife. And when you’re on the go, use its reversible deep-carry pocket clip – slipping easily into your pants pockets or tank bag.
Although we have always considered these to be tools, not weapons… I can almost see some bad guy in a dark alley becoming mesmerized by the rainbow finish and having the incident ended with a discussion of how really pretty the blade is... and leaving with a smile and a “Have a good night!”
It is an “Every day is Sunday Best BBQ Knife” to make a fashion and practical statement all in one. The Kershaw Outcome Rainbow Knife sells for $55.99 from kershaw.kaiusa.com, and better knife shops along the backroads.
KELVIN.17 MULTITOOL
Grateful that we have a grandchild now, that we can Christmas and Birthday with gifts, I was surprised to find a couple of trin kets on my desk Christmas morn – left by the Jolly Mon (whom I helped with his route, though he did not like the gravel pass through the Bhutan), and even happier when I discovered one was a Kelvin.17 Multi tool.
Kelvin is a versatile DIY Multi tool, solidly built from a heavy-duty resin, and comes with 13 Screwdriver Bits (4 Phil lips, 3 Torx, 3 Flat Head, 3 Allen keys), LED Flashlight, Integrated Liquid Level, Snap Action Screwdriver, which opens at the push of a button, 3 ft Measuring Tape and Carbon Steel Hammering Surface. It’s a superb “Oh shit” we can fix the motorcycle Multitool, all in the palm of your glove, making it a must-have for your home, on-the-go and in your tank or tool bag on the bike. It lists for just $29.99, and is available from kelvintools.com in 7 different colors to match your bike (Hey, style is everything!)
Welcome
sWeeps Week
The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents
to the
Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully
A column dedicated to your riding survival
We all have our faults, or in this case, default.
When riding with others, whether it just be Shira and me, or a group (small group – Byers’ Rule of 6 is brilliant), I almost inevitably find myself at point. Lead dog. By default.
In some ways, I feel like I am riding by myself for all these thousands of miles, but even at the lead, I am keeping an eye on those behind me. Sometimes too much.
Like products, well-thought-out placement can be key to a successful ad campaign and happy ride.
This last season Shira and I were heading east on West Virginia Route 33. Almost all our experience on 33 has been in and around Virginia and West Virginia, but this road has some serious history, as when it was created it simply followed the path that natives were using to get from the Chesapeake Bay to Lake Michigan for thousands of years. The road runs over 700 miles from the Richmond area to northern Indiana.
People followed other people all the time on this route, but this day, as we headed north, we had a larger sport bike group heading west over the mountains. A gaggle of nicely spaced-out machines running at a quick pace. I think we always take notice when riding the twisties, and suddenly there were bogeys heading quickly in your direction.
All was good, and noticing a group heading in the other direction was natural, but after the last bike passed by us, I noticed that I was beginning to relax again. I did not notice I had become unrelaxed, but when the “dawdler,” the last rider in the pack, came around the next bend ahead of us, his wheels touching into our lane at the apex, we both instinctively slid a bit to the right.
As he passed, tee shirt flapping in the wind for both he and his female pillion, we truly took notice.
I remember being this guy.
Years back when riding with a bunch of other riders, some of whom were very talented and quick, I was not at their level, and as they began to dust me, I felt the need to catch up. It never happened, and thankfully (for me) I learned about the discretion thing years before, and riding over the limits of yourself or your bike will eventually end badly. If you are not running at the speed of the riders in front of you, let them go, you should never try to play this dangerous gambit.
When it is not some misguided demi-race, but just a spirited ride with talented friends, riding in the back, riding the Sweep, has its benefits.
If you are all aware that one specific rider is going to be in the back, it makes keeping a group together all that much easier.
If you have a designated Sweep, that rider can be like a vigilant and watchful lookout, keeping an eye on the group and making sure some do not zig, when all the others have zagged. Being the Sweep also gives you a chance to watch others’ techniques, and get a feel for what is coming your way as well.
It takes a special rider to do this every ride, so taking turns now and again might be a good thing.
If you are on a longer trip, running along some new routes and roads, having the Sweep know where they are going - GPS, or spot-on knowledge of the day’s ride - is a plus. If that bike has additional lighting, like amber running lights, that will allow the riders ahead of the Sweep to know everybody is present and accounted for. Every rider should be somewhat responsible for the rider directly behind them. If the group makes a directional change, and some do not see it, they should see the rider ahead of them waiting for them.
If strung out on a long straight and everybody can see the amber running lights of the Sweep – then all is hunky dory.
Volunteering for the task of the Sweep might be worth it for some, and if the group is a happy one, maybe the Sweep should have dessert, or a cocktail, that night on the group.
A little benefit for a day’s riding task well done. ,
