Quest Magazine October 2023 by QUEST Magazine

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THE CHARLESTON ISSUE

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100

CONTENTS The Charleston Issue 88

WELCOME IN A roundup of Charleston’s impeccably preserved house museums, featuring centuries-old architecture, classical design, verdant gardens, and historically

significant stories from the world-renowned city’s nuanced past. by Molly Ramsey

A CHARLESTON LOCAL’S PERFECT WEEKEND: IN & AROUND TOWN

A guide to the ideal Friday, Saturday, and Sunday in Charleston. by Julia Jane Duggan

100 SOUTH CAROLINA PLANTATIONS : AN OLD LOOK WITH A NEW PURPOSE Looking back on the plantation system’s critical role in South Carolina’s emergence as a thriving colony centuries ago, and how they function today. by Michael Trouche

104 THE DEWBERRY: A HOLY CITY HAVEN A glimpse into one of the most sought-

after lodging locales in the Southeast and its latest offerings for fall. by Evan Edwards

108 LESS POP AND MORE BANGS IN THE FIELD When it comes to shooting in

the UK, concentrate more on the sport and less on the bottle. by Jonathan Young

114 QUEST STYLE Fashionable fall looks of the past. by Elizabeth Meigher 104

A S P R E Y. C O M

THE WOODL AND JE WELLERY COLLEC TION

6 7 8 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W YO R K , N Y 1 0 0 6 5 , T E L + 1 2 1 2 6 8 8 1 8 1 1

CONTENTS Columns

SOCIAL DIARY Another month of the social circuit. by David Patrick Columbia

HARRY BENSON Our columnist recalls photographing former President Ronald Reagan at his California ranch.

TAKI Reminiscing on times spent in the City of Light. by Taki Theodoracopulos

WELLNESS The story behind Struesli, an organic brand founded by Adrienne Lufkin. by Clementina Verge

FRESH FINDS A roundup of autumn’s latest trends. by Brooke Kelly Murray & Elizabeth Meigher

REAL ESTATE Navigating the Charleston market with Handsome Properties. by Brooke Kelly Murray

JEWELRY Elizabeth Gage celebrates 60 years of timeless elegance. by Brooke Kelly Murray

FASHION Dennis Basso draws inspiration from C.Z. and Cornelia Guest in his latest collection. by Elizabeth Meigher

BOOKS Assouline’s latest tome transports readers to the Eden Rock hotel in St Barths. by Brooke Kelly Murray

OPEN HOUSE Touring a Klemm Real Estate listing in Washington, Connecticut.

SOCIAL CALENDAR Our guide to the best luncheons, galas, and benefits this month.

120 YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST Partying in New York and the Hamptons. by Brooke Kelly Murray 124 SNAPSHOT The Legend of Sleepy Hollow still haunts. by Elizabeth Quinn Brown

AVA I L A B L E AT 4 2 H U D S O N ST N YC A N D A Z T E C H M O U N TA I N . COM

questmag.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

HARRY BENSON JAYNE CHASE KATE GUBELMANN TONY HALL ALEX HITZ ROBERT JANJIGIAN RICHARD JOHNSON KAREN KLOPP JAMES MACGUIRE HAVEN PELL CHUCK PFEIFER DAISY PRINCE LIZ SMITH (R.I.P.) TAKI THEODORACOPULOS CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

HARRY BENSON CAPEHART PHOTOGRAPHY BILLY FARRELL MARY HILLIARD CRISTINA MACAYA CUTTY MCGILL PATRICK MCMULLAN

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Clockwise from bottom left: Fort Sumter; Contributor Jonathan Young; C.Z. and Cornelia Guest; the Barrett family enjoying a picnic, 1978; The Dewberry Hotel; Debbie Fisher, of Handsome Properties.

TRUTH BE TOLD... I’m in a foul humor, as I’m writing this missive from Quest’s Manhattan offices during the height of the United Nation’s General Assembly. “Arrrgghh” as the pirates used to bellow when approaching their targeted plunder under sail. From Quest’s own feathered “Crow’s Nest”, I look down onto Madison Avenue and 48th Street where it’s a roiling sea of stalled cars, adrift in bumper-tobumper traffic for blocks at end - a nasty piece of poor planning that seems increasingly more pointless. Sadly, this annual charade called “UN Week” has become a toothless global gabfest that “big nation” Heads-of-State now avoid, especially as the once heralded strategy of multilateralism has become all but irrelevant. “Arrrgghh” indeed! Nonetheless, this curmudgeonly sailor sees smooth waters and blue skies ahead in October, as Quest’s intrepid crew has steered a southward course down the Eastern Seaboard and into the historic and charming harbor of Charleston, South Carolina. We salute the sandy shoal and ramparts of Fort Sumter, and can clearly sight the landmarked spire of St Michael’s Church, whose legendary bells accompany our entrance ... and grace the Cover of this inaugural Charleston Issue. My mood is rapidly improving (!) as I gaze through Quest’s pages and images dedicated to the natural beauty and captivating traditions of this fabled community, appropriately named: America’s “Holy City”. I can nearly smell the renowned sweetgrass as I read Molly Ramsey’s roundup of Charleston’s perfectly preserved house museums, and Michael Trouche’s retrospective on the critical role that plantations played in the Holy City’s emergence, some three centuries ago. Charleston’s own “JJ” Duggan shares her tips on how to enjoy the perfect weekend in this cherished town, and on pages 104-107, Quest’s newest contributor, Evan Edwards, gives us a cat’s eye glimpse of the much heralded and chicly attractive Dewberry Hotel. Should you visit (and you should!) be certain to book your lodging in this much sought-after locale, where they’ve recently partnered with our shipmates at Barton & Gray for exclusive Dewberry guest voyages, in and around the stunning bays of Charleston. Now that’s salty ... AND smart! Elsewhere in this October number you’ll learn how to navigate Charleston’s booming realty market through the sage and practical counsel of the much trusted Debbie Fisher, the hands-on owner and operator of Handsome Properties. And don’t miss the wit and sober wisdom of our returning contributor, Jonathan Young - the former

26 QUEST

and highly respected Editor of The Field, the UK’s leading sporting magazine. Jonathan’s learned observations regarding “less pop and more bangs” will have even the most seasoned guns thinking twice about wafting that third glass of their swellegant host’s private claret. I apologize for my initial (and infantile) bad mood ... but the UN mess needs to be addressed, and it’s waaay beyond the traffic jams. So much of all this goes back to our simple plea of: “who’s in charge?” A year from now we’ll be in the final throws of a national referendum; the journey to the November ’24 elections will not be pretty, with much of the divisive anger generated by our justified frustrations. Quest’s insightful readers will recognize that Fort Sumter, referenced above, was also the first battle of our regrettable Civil War - resulting in more American casualties than in any war since. Our Nation was saved, indeed resurrected by a gangly and self educated leader who put his Country ahead of his politics. I hardly suggest that we’re at the precipice of combat; yet, I encourage all of us to identify and seek out alternative candidates who will lead us toward success ... not secession. Americans have always celebrated our innate common sense and national pride, but can we now rechannel our discontent into rational and accountable nominees? The window of opportunity is but twelve months away. ◆

Chris Meigher

ON THE COVER: A view of St. Michael’s Church at the intersection of King Street and Broad Street in Charleston, South Carolina. Photo by Susanne Pommer/ Alamy Stock Photo.

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Nikki Field & Amanda Field Jordan, Associate Brokers | NikkiField.com Photography by Travis Mark. All Rights Reserved. The Sotheby’s International Realty trademark is licensed and used with permission. Operated by SIR, Inc. The SIR network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Real estate agents affiliated with SIR are independent contractor sales associates and are not employees of SIR.

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA

David Patrick Columbia

NEW YORK SOCIAL DIARY

THE TOWN’S BACK in town. We are now in a New York state of mind in mid-autumn when the energy rises with oncoming national holidays right to the end of the year. It is a stimulating time in personal ways because of the holidays, but

ing changes. Palm Beach has had regeneration that is major. It has grown from its single island to the area long known as West Palm Beach. Then we had COVID and the lockdowns. The increase in population only means that even more

it is also a local rebirth/a renaissance of sorts. Of course we don’t know about nature’s elements in advance. The changes in living habits responding to the lockdowns and other outside factors have remained in activity, particularly liv-

will be en route south one of these days. It’s new again but it’s different. Palm Beach has been the winter haven for the very rich (mainly) Americans for more than a century. Because it is an island, it has remained exclusive.

PRO S TAT E CAN CER FOUNDAT ION IN WAT ER MILL

Alina De Almeida and John Paulson

Steven Mnuchin and Jim Coleman 28 QUEST

Emily Church

Candace Bushnell

Hilary Geary Ross and Wilbur Ross

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Lin Connelly and Stephen Ross

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA MANOLO BL AHNIK'S DINNER IN NEW YORK

Ashley Avignone and Janet Montgomery

Rebecca Goodman and Nick Wooster

Peter Ostrega and Samantha Angelo

The People Upstairs/ Downstairs. A friend of mine sent me a manuscript a while back, an occupational memoir called The Butler Wore Guccis. He is (and was) a man named Thomas Gardner. A young native New Yorker back in the1950s when he was in college, he applied for a summer job working on a household domestic staff. The idea of getting inside a family to see the way they lived fascinated him. The idea fascinated me but I’ve been around enough of both staffs and staffers; ups and downs, that it wasn’t on my Must Read list. I figured it was a “tell all.” I’m a constant reader, but I’m also a “slow-reader” and always limited time 30 QUEST

Sophie Sumner and Igee Okafor

on what it was like working wise for pleasure reading. Part of the fascination is for Marjorie Merriweather that the writer applied for Post. Potentially fascinating; that first job as a lark. Unwit- maybe, I thought. She was tingly he launched himself in famous across America in his adult life. He found the the early to late-20th centujob interesting, including the ry as the Post Toasties heiress. One of her p e rs on a l it i e s daughters was and their daily Dina Merrill. behavior. He It was amazing wrote about his to me that an employers and ordinary cerethe way they al could make ran their housyou rich as a es (and their royal. But this lives). And of was America course their mid-centur y : habits and perThe Butler Wore Guccis anything was sonalities. There’s no “scandal” in his experi- possible. Or so we thought. Mrs. Post was also famous ences in this intimate memoir, however. If anything, it for her mansion in Palm demonstrates how ordinary Beach, Mar-a-Lago (28 acres from the sea to the lake). It we all are in many ways. Then I came to the chapter was more of a palace than

Molly Melville

any kind of cottage. That was her intention. She and her second husband E. F. Hutton built it. The house was famous to the public because it was more like a palace— which is what it was—occupied by the queen. And then there was her enormous yacht, the Sea Cloud. And her marriages. There were four of them. The author, Mr. Gardner took a job on staff for the winter season. Through him we learn about Mrs. Post in a far different, even brighter light. She was everything she appeared to be but that was simply how she lived her daily life. She was naturally hard-working in the sense of pursuing her interests and intentions as a wealthy

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA woman with the responsibility of taking care of her fortune, which was immense in its time. Her parties were part of her program and her pleasure. Mar-a-Lago was built specifically with the intention of making a deep impression on many people. You could call it a business decision. It’s a natural quality of a leader. And a statement about its creator; and a responsible one. The domestic in-house staff alone at Mar-a-Lago numbered 45. Everyone had their specific responsibilities, and there were a lot of responsibilities to delegate because Mrs. Post throughout all her marriages loved having guests, and big din-

ners (and square dancing loved her, and referred to her afterwards). The palace had as Mother, but addressed her many guest rooms. Madam’s as “Mrs. Post.” It was like a suite on the top floor had well-managed business. Her father, its own staff who inventwhich served ed the cereal only her in (as a health her private device), was quarters. very sucShe rarecessful. It ly had direct started with contact with house staff. Dina Merrill and Marjorie Merriweather a “healthy” Post at Mar-a-Lago coffee replaceBut they deeply respected her because of the ment (caffeine–free) called way she provided for them Postum. Then came a cereal, which included Respect and Post’s Toasties. Meanwhile, Consideration. She put an in her early 20s, Marjorie executive in charge of the married and moved to New entire property and a main- York. But when she was 27 tenance staff which was even and living with her first huslarger. She rarely spoke to band Edward Close and her them personally but as the small children, her father real chief executive they all killed himself.

As his only child, she moved right into running the company looking after his legacy and making it her own. Under her directorship, she began acquiring additional companies—one of the first being Birds-Eye frozen foods. The process was revolutionary at the time and it more than doubled her business. Within very few years under her direction and advised by her second husband Mr. Hutton who was chief executive of the growing firm, she was acquiring Jell-O, Bakers Chocolate, Maxwell House. She expanded the business which today is called General Foods. When I received the book, I figured I’d probably nev-

YOUNG FRIENDS OF PALM BE ACH CHARITIE S

Nancy Lupin and Erica Haft

Mike Weiss and Erin Sykes

Bitsy and Homer Marshman 32 QUEST

Kayla Hinkle and Ryan Holliha

Rachel Lansing and Lindsey Grant

Esther Stewart and Rachael Flanagan

M ARY S T U C C H I P H OTO G R AP H Y

Rachel Stockton and Stephanie Dagher

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA CENTR AL PARK CONSERVANCY 'S TENNIS TOURNAMENT IN NE W YORK

Melissa Frankfort, Becky Yang Palmon, Alana Frankfort and Michelle Auerbach Anne Prosser, Tracey Huff, Maureen Mulheren and Sarah Alister

er get to it. But after taking a last look before eliminating, I was reading it. I was fascinated by the world she created for herself (and her family) and all observed by a man who served her (Mr. Gardner). Before Mr. Gardner’s story, I’d never thought much about Mrs. Post except for her very expensive lifestyle (and her yacht). I was fascinated to learn about the greatness of this particular heiress. Being an employee of “Mother” was a kind of gift, in many ways, about a better side of life. She was a naturally great executive leader (and philanthropist), sensitive to the needs and realities of life of those in her employ. And a real American too, even from the Midwest by birth and upbringing. Mr. Gardner’s chapter 34 QUEST

Catherine Fraise and Megan del Valle

Sugie Hong Bruttomesso, Amy Tarr and Juliana Diaz

shows you around and ex- event raises funds for the plains things. It all makes Museum at FIT (Fashion Insense, like Mother; seriously. stitute of Technology), New Meanwhile here we are York’s only museum dediin Autumn, back in the Big cated exclusively to the art Town. It all moves so quick- of fashion. The funds raised ly these days that in New go toward developing exhiYork it can seem like one big bitions, programming, and season with various themes symposia, all of which are weather-wise and social- free and open to the public. They honly; but constant ored Gabriechange. la Hearst with Change of its 2023 Couture clothes. The Council Award opening event for Artistry of for the Autumn Fashion. Ms. social season in Hearst is creative New York is the director of her annual luncheon namesake fashof The Couture ion brand GabriCouncil of The Dr. Valerie Steele Museum at FIT and Dr. Joyce F. Brown ela Hearst and the (MFIT). Its date marks the French luxury fashion house “official” opening of Fashion Chloé. The award was presented Week in New York. Held at Lincoln Center in by tennis superstar Maria the grand mezzanine of the Sharapova and chef Daniel David Koch Theater, this Humm. There is also the FIT

Kate Lauprete and Stephanie Stamas

Student Award and this year Stella Hobart was presented with The Museum. Dr. Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator of MFIT welcomed guests. FIT President Dr. Joyce F. Brown, who presides over one of the most exciting and successful schools in New York, thanked everyone for coming and supporting the museum, and introduced Nordstrom Inc.’s Chief Stores Officer Jamie Nordstrom, who addressed the room. Both Valerie Steele and Dr. Brown together and separately have made FIT a destination in its field(s) both academic and historically. Every year the FIT Committee honors a person in some aspect of the fashion business, including the major designers of the last two decades. Actual “fashion”—

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Betsy Smith and Jenny Price

Sarah Kurita, Leslie Brille, Jenny Price, Mimi Ritzen Crawford and Fraser Maloney

M a r t h a’ s V i n e ya r d

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA the stuff we buy and wear daily—has changed drastically in New York in my lifetime, and most noticeably in these past three years when people were much more isolated much of their time. This is true for both men and women, and particularly the younger. The official costume was always what you’d wear around the house. Which translates into whatever. Yes, that was the end of the sentence. That “whatever fashion” is now the majority, although it may be fading to some degree. The younger sets, the real purveyors of “fashion,” are more aligned to having an identity among their own. Once upon a time, a generation or so ago, social

luncheons were social rather than fashion. You can see it in the curluncheons, like the annual balls celebrated for existing. rent fashion trends on the In my imagination, the street. They are more relaxed women all looked like C.Z. and casual. In the chic-er corners, everyGuest or Babe thing has gone Pale y–leisure big floral and or formal, was cheerful, to put a production. it diplomatically. Of course Yes, it’s casual. they had politAnd reflects our ical underpinworld right now. nings – a way to gather cer- Mary Katherine and Diana Prince The “right now” part is the key. tain types of peoMeanwhile, out of town. ple. Now we’ve graduated, maybe grown up a little (no- Before we forget where Sumtice I said “a little”). Philan- mer was providing. With thropy is not new but its the theme “Outer Space To general nature has become the Stars,” The Preservation more widely involved in Society of Newport County helping keep the society to- hosted its annual Summer gether. The challenge keeps Dinner Dance on August growing, often pushing flesh 12th, with the theme being

“out of this world. That being Alva Vanderbilt’s Marble House where arriving guests strolled through the mansion’s spectacular foyer onto the back terrace, where they were greeted by two living “statues” clad in celestial silver costumes. From that moment, guests moved through a “time tunnel”—from the Gilded Age to a futuristic Space Age inside an elaborately decorated 100-by-140-foot tent. The dance was co-chaired by Mary Katherine and Diana Prince – whose family owned Marble House from 1932 to 1963, before it was transferred to the Preservation Society. This evening is a major fundraiser for the Preservation Society.

N E W YO R K AC A D E M Y O F A R T O N S H E LT E R I S L A N D

Greg Unis, Patty Horing and Bernardo Siciliano

Curtis Bashaw and David Kratz 36 QUEST

Donna Karan and Rebecca Moses

Nicole Miller

Reisha Perlmetter and Tabitha Whitley

Naomi Watts

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John Wellington

Shary Boyle, White Elephant (detail), 2021. Courtesy of the artist and Contemporary Art Forum Kitchener and Area (CAFKA). Photo: John Jones.

THROUGH FEBRUARY 25

Shary Boyle: Outside the Palace of Me Step into a multisensory solo exhibition of new works by the Canadian visual artist, featuring exquisitely sculpted ceramics, life-sized automatons, two-way mirrors, and a coin-operated sculpture, set to an interactive soundtrack.

2 COLUMBUS CIRCLE, NYC MADMUSEUM.ORG

Outside the Palace of Me is organized by the Gardiner Museum, Toronto. Generous funding was received by the New York State Council on the Arts with the support of the Office of the Governor and the New York State Legislature. The exhibition was funded in part, by public funds from the New York City Department of Cultural Affairs in partnership with the City Council and with the support of the Consulate General of Canada in New York. We acknowledge the support of the Canada Council for the Arts.

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA FRIENDS OF THE COSTUME INSTITUTE IN NEW YORK

Harold Koda and Whitney Donhauser

Newport is history. It’s one of the first important seaside communities all the way back to the 17th century. And the seaside real estate always attracted the rich because of its convenient access to the ocean. At the end of the 19th century, for the very rich of the Industrial Revolution, it became the ideal spot. Alva Vanderbilt’s dream of a palace was really that and nothing more. After she divorced Willlie K., she married Mr. Belmont who had his own mansion right across the avenue. She moved right in and did it over. But after he died suddenly only a few years later, she changed 38 QUEST

Brian Solis, Micaela Erlanger and Roman Chiporukha

Miki Higasa and Amy Fine Collins

Lauren Remington Platt and Sarah Rosen

Christine Quinn

many things in her life: the of Gigi and Harry Benpalace interior had lost its son. Also joining us was a allure as she turned her in- friend of theirs from Scotterest to Women’s Rights. land, Kae Tinto. In telling me about her Marble House is before we met, a brilliant piece Gigi described of American her as a woman economic and “who travels the political history. world climbing Marble House is mountains of all now an icon histhings…” torically because Kae is a lot at the center of younger than I, social activity at but old enough this time in our Kae Tinto with history, is finding Harry and Gigi Benson to have beautiful ways to help, to assist each blonde twin daughters; also totally Scottish (although other, to live together. Meanwhile back to busi- Kae’s ex-husbands were not). ness. A Saturday night in If she didn’t have that Scotthe big town, I was a guest tish accent I’d believe her if at dinner at Sette Mezzo she said she was from Mal-

Wendi Murdoch and Jamie Tisch

ibu. She looks so Southern Cal; blonde on blonde, lightly tanned, well dressed but relaxed. And a really nice woman – who, as Gigi said, personally loves the climb. Been at it all her life in Scotland and across the world. She told me “You’d be surprised how many people have always wanted to climb the highest mountains.” Now she’s made it a busy business. She’s the girl to go to if you want to organize a clime way up there. She organizes the climbs, and all of its required details including the equipment and nourishment, along with everything needed to make it to the top successfully.

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA 1 RAND LUXURY'S HAMPTONS CONCOURS

Call It a Reset:

Refresh Your Home For Fall

Georgina Bloomberg

Devorah Rose Melissa and Bradford Rand

There are myriad ways to enhance your interiors with fall-inspired decor, from layering in texture and color to bringing nature indoors. Ahead, I share my favorite ways to create rooms worth lingering in. You can make a few small updates or completely redecorate. Whether you find yourself in the city or the country, you can create décor that has a sense of place. One of the quickest updates? Incorporate texture and color with accessories. Drape a textured throw over the arm of a chair or along the back of a sofa. Remove summery linen slipcovers, and layer in rich hues of oranges and reds that can be incorporated through a rug, throw pillows, or bespoke pleated fabric lampshades. Let’s not forget about well-placed lighting to completely transform the ambiance of a room. For a personal touch, I like to include coffee table books on topics our clients are passionate about. Looking forward to sitting by a roaring fire? Orient chairs around the fireplace, perfectly situated for backgammon. Put the focus on the mantel, and try using pretty glass hurricanes when the fireplace isn’t in use. And nothing beats the aromatic scent. A fall refresh will prepare your home for entertaining, and welcoming family and friends in style.

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Amelia Croxson, Eric Price and Lynne Maizin

It can be a passion and not the same as, but kind of like a sport that requires discipline to survive. For a man or woman of spectacular financial achievement who can afford the great expense because it’s the ultimate challenge. It is now an active interest for a certain socio-economic group whom Kae assists. Dinners with Harry and Gigi are always interesting because of the vast experiences and the people they’ve known with his extraordinary career all over the world from the Beatles having a pillow fight in their hotel room on their first visit to the United States to the murdered Senator Robert Kennedy on the floor of the hotel in Los Angeles where he was shot while campaigning for a Presidential run – all gathered in a dozen volumes of his work by Gigi’s extraordinary management of his legacy. Bad News Came to me on a Friday when a friend emailed me, having

Mike and Bill Endico with Fabio Granato

heard from her brother in Palm Beach that Felicia Taylor had died the night before in her sleep at the house of her fairly recently wed husband Peter Gottsegen. This came as a shock to me and made me very sad. I knew Felicia well. Her birthday was the week before – she’d just turned 59 on the 28th of August. Her husband told me she had been troubled for the previous few days with off-and-on harsh physical symptoms including pain and fatigue. On Thursday night they were watching a film when she was so uncomfortable that she decided to go up to bed. When the film was over he went up to bed to join her, and she was sleeping. In the middle of the night, while sleeping also, as if in a dream, he was visited by Felicia, face to face who told him that she would always love him but that she had to leave. And she vanished. The experience woke him up and he turned to see that

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DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA she was indeed, still asleep right next to him. So he reached over and put his hand on Felicia’s hand. It was ice cold. I’d known Felicia for more than 25 years. She was born in Los Angeles where her mother was married to Rod Taylor, the Australian movie star who came to fame with American movie-goers when he co-starred with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton who made their first film with each other after Cleopatra. The Rod Taylor marriage was brief, and Felicia’s mother married a very wealthy older man

from Chicago. Felicia’s new that smiled on meeting. “step-father” did not like She was outgoing and had a having children around natural warmth in her perand so Felicia could not sonality. Quick to laughlive with her mother and ter and easy to converse. new husband. At age 13, She had that same manner she was put up in her own when she was on camera. apartment with a govern- But behind all that was the trouble that ess. Somehow you only got a that story, her glimpse of after experience, arshe had been ticulates the drinking. source of FeThere was the licia’s troubles warmth about to me. None of her that was which were ever contagious. But apparent when the sadness that in her company. Felicia Taylor In person she was a very I attribute to her childhood attractive, beautiful young – as it is with most of us – woman, always well turned she never discussed. When out and bright blue eyes she married Peter Gottse-

gen a little more than a year ago, she was noticeably so happy to be with him that I was convinced that her “troubles were over.” I remember her laughter which could be frequent, and hearty. She will be missed; but she is now finally at peace. The other sad news for many was the passing also last Thursday of Sydney Shuman. I knew her the way we know neighbors – never close friends but with an agreeable and friendly respect for someone. Warm and friendly (and naturally beautiful), I met Sydney through some of her philanthropic work, as a mem-

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1. Mary Hilliard and Michael Bassett 2. Gail Bontecou and Becky Thornton 3. Julie and Jim Dale 4. Felicitas Thorne, Michael Barnello and Eliza Thorne 5. Natasha Blodgett and Charlie Merison 6. Kelly Morgan and Ann Goodbody 7. Whit and Stanley Stillman 8. Carolina Kim, Jacqueline Thorne, Alexis Small and Oakleigh Thorne 9. Dorsey Waxter and Richard Armstrong 10. David Dase and Jacqueline Flake

10 8

DAV I D PAT R I C K C O LU M B IA ber of the Board of Trustees of Carnegie Hall and the Rockefeller University Hospital. Married to Stan Shuman, a prominent investment banker, she was from an old Philadelphia family of the Mainline or thereabouts. A bright and pleasant personality but with a quiet, natural elegance. I’d seen her only a couple of weeks before at dinner at Sette Mezzo, where she looked great and waved with her warm and friendly personality as she was being seated at a table nearby. I never knew her age but she was probably a little older than Felicia, but to my eye, age had not yet moved in on her. I don’t know the

I can’t remember when circumstances of her departure; whether or not she had we met but no doubt it was been ill (she certainly didn’t when I was covering one of appear to be). But she will the many institutional black tie dinners that be greatly missed often occur here even by this man in New York. I who saw her only did not come to occasionally. know him well. While we’re on Except our paths the subject I’m recrossed a few minded about antimes thereafter other Friday late over the years, last month. It was and we were both kind of an almost inclined to conrainy day, in New Warren Hoge York when I’d learned that versation, personality-wise. I knew at the time that Warren Hoge had died when a friend sent me the Times he was a journalist, long obit on him. Like Sydney and time with the Times; covFelicia, Warren was a very ering the world scene with nice man, a good man, and its wars and problems. I was it made me very sad learning not familiar with his overall work although reading about his death.

about it for the first time in his Times obituary, it’s obvious that he had a distinguished career. As it often is in New York, we never shared a friendship although it was always a hail-fellow-wellmet upon running into one another. He had a distinguished education in the terms of the time we were growing up. It made me laugh to read that he got thrown out of Exeter for “gambling.” (He ended up at Yale anyway). His Spirit remains intact over here, and no doubt wherever he was once present. His loss must be profound for those who knew him well, as well as his wife and son. ◆

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Brendon Williams and Arianna Marnell

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Nan Bush and Bruce Weber

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Richard McCabe and Kelly Bickle

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Danny and Elizabeth Harmer

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Kara Ross and Eleanora Kennedy

Princess Deena Ali Al-Juhani Abdulaziz

Jamie Nordstrom 50 QUEST

Jamee Gregory and Audrey Gruss

Joyce Brown, Gabriela Hearst, Dana Thomas and Valerie Steele

Lizzie Asher and Adrien Lesser

Maria Sharapova

Martha Stewart

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HA R RY B E N S O N

IT SEEMS LIKE YESTERDAY WHEN I ARRIVED at Rancho del Cielo near Santa Barbara, California, in August 1983, President Ronald Reagan (19811989) was getting the horses ready for his daily ride with First Lady Nancy Reagan. I was there to photograph the first lady for a LIFE magazine cover story, and she looked great… hardly any makeup—fresh and natural. She was completely confident in the way she looked. Yet, I got the feeling Mrs. Reagan was not too keen on their daily ride, although to please her husband she pretended to look forward to it. Rancho del Cielo was known as “The Western White House,” and the Reagans, especially the president, loved to spend their holidays there as often as possible. The president looked elegant even in a plain white T-shirt, 58 QUEST

jodhpurs, and scuffed, worn riding boots as he lead his favorite horse, “El Alamein,” from the barn. The grey Anglo Arab had been a gift in 1980 from then President of Mexico, Lopez Portillo. Reagan liked the elegant horse because it was frisky and fast, and he liked to saddle him and rub him down after the ride. Reagan knew how to let me do my job and never said no to any photography. Always full of amusing stories, he told me about once making a low budget Western. During a break from filming, he and another actor took off their jackets, one blue and one black. Returning to the set, they accidentally switched jackets. When the director noticed the mistake, he shrugged and kept on filming. u

Former President Ronald Reagan leads his horse at his California ranch, 1983. Photographed by Harry Benson.

OCTOBER 2023 59

NTA AM K IE

PARIS WAS YESTERDAY

Clockwise from left: The Eiffel Tower; Gerald and Sara Murphy at Cap d’Antibes beach, 1923; Christina de

GSTAAD—A reader’s inquiry as to why I think Paris was yesterday has me remembering times past. When did the party end? According to the point of view of many night owls, the party ended when the Queen of the Night, Regine, shut down “New Jimmy’s” and moved to London, where she flopped. Boring accountant types believe it was “les événements de soixante-huit,” the student-worker re00 QUEST 6

volt against de Gaulle, that did Paris in. Anyway one looks at it, the events of 1968 signaled the party’s over, and it has stayed over ever since. Mind you, the high jinks had been waning for some time. I had first arrived in Paris as a tennis player in 1957 but moved permanently to the City of Light on Nov. 11, 1958, Poppy Day. The place was jumping. It was rich and brightly lit,

and the people were prosperous. Sure, the frogs were frogs—xenophobic, ungenerous, suspicious, and intellectually superior—but the city was full of foreigners, rich foreigners out to enjoy themselves. Everyone gravitated to Montparnasse, where Le Dome, La Rotondem, and the Select were open all night, their large ceiling-to-floor mirrors and bordello-red interiors a wel-

KP HE YO ST OT OCNRE E PD RI TE SGSO/EASL AHME RY ES T O C K P H O T O

Caraman, 1962.

TA K I come sight after boozing all night at very dark New Jimmy’s a block down the street. The unreliability of memory screens out the boring and pedestrian, and only the jollity and delight remain. But Paris back then really suited; its sensual atmosphere was perfection, the Parisian women’s sexuality even more so. And here’s another thing: When one’s young, the ordinariness of people one encounters does not register as it does later on. What youth rates as exceptional, maturity denigrates to mediocre. Back then, the rowdy orgy of late capitalism didn’t exist. Nor did the hostility one feels in today’s nightclubs, mainly in the Bagel. Paris sizzled immediately after the First World War because the cities

owners Stavros Niarchos and Ari Onassis, South American tycoons and art patrons Arturo Lopez and Antenor Patino, and Jimmy Goldsmith, along with a myriad of Chilean and Argentine polo players. I was lucky to be almost instantly befriended by Rubirosa, known at the time as the greatest playboy of all time. His house, just west of St. Cloud, was a marvel of luxury and good taste—and a 10-minute ride to the polo club of Bagatelle. Rubi, as everyone called him, had such a compelling personality, half the polo players and playboys in Paris spoke and acted like him. In the spring of 1959 he asked me to move to his and his fifth wife Odile’s house. The reason was sport and fun. We’d box in the ring he had

was welcome. Andre Dubonnet, of that Dubonnet, once told me that to beguile and to be mischievous was more important than one’s ancestry. I was 22 years old and took it all in. The nightly visits to New Jimmy’s were the highlights. Behind a shiny black door on Avenue Montparnasse, Regine’s sister would look through a spy hole and click you in. One would pass a second inspection from the left, where Françoise Sagan, author of the bestseller Bonjour Tristesse at 18 years of age, would sit surrounded by gay American men and young French lesbians. The rest was straight out of a 1930s German film: dark, shadowy, and smoky, the only missing link being an absent Peter Lorre.

From left: Josephine Baker; New Jimmy’s club in

GP HE NO TE OR ACLR PE DH IOTT OGGOREAS P H EI CR EA G E N C Y / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; R O N G A L E L L A / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; G E T T Y I M A G E S

Paris, 1961; Porfirio Rubirosa.

were not destroyed. Thousands of Americans arrived in order to have a good time for very little money, including Papa Hemingway, the Murphys, the Fitzgeralds, Cole Porter, Josephine Baker, and so on. After World War II, although the city was not blown up thanks to General von Choltitz ignoring the Führer’s orders, there was no food or heat in the city until the early ’50s. Real high life began in the mid-’50s and went on until 1968. The cultural cocktail that worked its Parisian magic included American expatriates like authors James (From Here to Eternity) Jones and Irwin (The Young Lions) Shaw, tennis great Budge Patty, aesthete Jimmy Douglas, Dominican playboy and diplomat Porfirio Rubirosa, Greek ship-

upstairs before breakfast—Rubi decreed no hitting him in the nose or mouth—then have breakfast on the side of the vast lawn, followed by a drive to Bagatelle, where we’d work the ponies and stick and ball. He was a five handicap, I never made it past two. Then we’d lunch at Le Relais, on Avenue Montaigne, and I’d go to the Racing Club in the Bois and play tennis with various French Davis Cuppers. Rubi would either visit Madame Claude on Rue Marignan or hit a flick on the Champs-Elysée. He’d pick me up from the tennis and after a good dinner at home with his many guests, we’d hit New Jimmy’s. French society back then had opened up; everyone knew each other and anyone with good manners and better looks

Young French aristocrats like the Montesquieu sisters, the Ganay boys, the Francombe girls, and Christina and Francois de Caraman were regulars. And then there were the balls, great affairs where only la crème de la crème were invited, the Rochambeau ball at their château, the Agnelli one at the Bois de Boulogne, the Rothschild one at Ferrières, and the Rede blast on the Îsle Saint-Louis. Then came 1968. The streets turned into battlegrounds, and Irwin Shaw told me if I wished to write to head for Vietnam or the Middle East. I followed his advice. I’ve been back to Paris many times, but Paris REALLY was yesterday. u For more Taki, visit takimag.com. O C T OM BA EY R 2023 6 01 0

STRUESLI: ADRIENNE LUFKIN REDEFINES GRANOLA BY CLEMENTINA VERGE

WELLNESS

From above: Adrienne Lufkin holds containers of Struesli Granola in her kitchen; Dan and Adrienne Lufkin at their estate in Washington, Connecticut, where Adrienne founded Struesli.

J I L L N E L S ON / AN N I E WAT T

Opposite page: Adrienne Lufkin and Wendy Carduner at the Lufkins’ Connecticut estate.

FUELED BY passion for culinary arts and optimal nutrition, Adrienne Lufkin turned her family’s pristine estate in Washington, Connecticut, into an atelier where she crafted a versatile superfood earning national recognition for its superior quality. “It’s nice to have our kitchen back to normal,” laughs her husband, Wall Street legend and environmental advocate Dan Lufkin, reminiscing about the long days Adrienne spent experimenting with “ingredients of all shapes and sizes that fit the formula just right.” Thus originated Struesli, an organic brand encapsulating impactful nutrients, zero gluten, and zero added sugar. Elegant on the outside, every container is impressive on the inside: a bespoke medley including tiger nuts, coconut flakes, golden flaxseeds, and hemp hearts. Whether sprinkled on toast, added as a satisfying crunch to salads, or drizzled over fresh fruit, each serving delivers a powerhouse of vitamins and antioxidants. “It’s much more than just a granola,” Adrienne notes. “It’s a pantry staple replacing the multiple packages of nuts and seeds we all acquire.” Struesli culminates decades of culinary experience inextricably linked to wellness. A Fordham University graduate, Adrienne trained at The French Culinary Institute of NYC before spending years cooking alongside chefs in Nantucket and for high-profile clients throughout the country. Many required customized meals in response to dietary restrictions and health issues ranging from diabetes to inflammatory conditions and cancer. She approached the task with compassion, having personally suffered from chronic migraines and Crohn’s disease. “I had a hard time finding granola that is sugar and sweetener

free, and packed with good-for-you superfoods and nothing else,” explains Adrienne. “What makes Struesli ‘redefined’ is everything it contains and everything it doesn’t.” Wendy Carduner, one of Struesli’s first taste testers, was optimistic from the onset. A decades-long friend of the Lufkin family, she met Adrienne almost nine years ago. A hello hug ignited a deep friendship, bonded by a love of fashion, dogs, fitness, and nutrition. Upon her first sample, Carduner was immediately impressed by the all-natural fresh-tasting healthy taste and texture of Struesli. “To be honest, I’ve never been a fan of granola. Sometimes it’s overly sweet, and generally, it doesn’t have a naturally clean feeling,” Carduner remarks. “Instantly, though, as soon as I tasted Struesli, I said, ‘This is really delicious. It’s fresh-tasting, healthy, and all natural.” Carduner has spearheaded the very successful Doubles Club for almost five decades…and each of her days is fueled by a desire for excellence. “I am a very health conscious and particular eater,” she confesses. “Struesli won me over and has become part of my morning breakfast routine.” Impressed by Struesli’s quality, Carduner will feature it in the 2023 Doubles Club Holiday Shopping Boutique and add Struesli Yogurt Parfaits to the club’s Luncheon Dessert Table. When not tinkering with recipes, Adrienne is a busy mom, community volunteer, and nature lover. Proud of her accomplishments, Dan praises her for taking something unknown and building brand recognition. “She’s always been an amazing cook, but it’s truly exciting and astounding to see her flourish and thrive as a businesswoman,” he declares. Though he is happy to have the family kitchen back, as the epicenter of Adrienne’s creativity, its serenity is short-lived. She continues to create and test new flavors and future products. u OCTOBER 2023 63

QUEST

Fresh Finds B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY & ELIZABETH MEIGHER

THERE’S NO better season to spend time in the country than fall. Whether you’re heading to Millbrook for the weekend or overseas to a rural destination in England, we’ve rounded up our favorite looks for hangouts in the field. Brunello Cucinelli ’s Hand-Crafted Cashmere Double Beaver Cloth Pea Coat with Precious

Wempe’s Electrify Necklace

Patch ($7,995), Virgin Wool Flannel Blazer

by Wempe Casuals in 18k

with Dazzling Leaf Embroidery ($8,995), Virgin Wool Flannel Sartorial Mini Skirt with Dazzling Leaf Embroidery ($4,395), Stretch

rose gold with 64 round brilliant-cut diamonds. $6,795

Cashmere Knit Rib Socks ($650), and Leather

at wempe.com.

Loafers ($1,350). Visit shop.brunellocucinelli.com.

Ralph Lauren Collection’s new Stacked RL Nikki Sunglasses. $315 at ralphlauren.com.

Messika’s Move Link Necklace in 18k yellow gold, featuring 35 round brilliant-cut diamonds.

Offering a fully bagged country inspired style set on a chunky outsole, Barbour’s Acorn Boots feature a suede leg that adds a sophisticated texture detail while an adjustable buckle to the upper leg ensures premium comfort. $325 at barbour.com. 64 QUEST

C O U R TE S Y OF RE S P E C TI V E B R AN DS

$22,670 at messika.com.

Casa de Campo Resort & Villas in the Dominican Republic is offering a “Fall into Savings” package, valid for travel on October 1st through December 19th. Starting at $479 per person, per night for guestrooms, and $999 per night for villas. Book now, while the temperatures are high, and the prices are low. Visit casadecampo.com.do for details.

Woven at a 200-year-old mill in the Scottish countryside, Burberry’s doublefaced cashmere scarf can be personalized in an array of colors with up to three initials. $910 at us.burberry.com. Made from HD wool wadding to provide added warmth, Purdey’s Men’s Suede Padded Gilet features the diamond effect quilt stitching.

New for 2023, Rolex’s Oyster

$3,300 at shop.purdey.com.

Perpetual Sky-Dweller in oystersteel and white gold features a mint green dial and a Jubilee bracelet. Price upon request at rolex.com.

Stubbs & Wootton’s Hunting Slippers in navy feature hunting dog embroideries. $575 at stubbsandwootton.com.

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OCTOBER 2023 65

Fresh Finds TAMARA COMOLLI’s MIKADO Flamenco

Tucked away on quiet South

Charm Diamant Pavé bracelet in

Summer Street in Edgartown

yellow gold with white diamonds.

village, The Charlotte Inn in

$19,800 at tamaracomolli.com.

Martha’s Vineyard is exquisitely appointed with fine art, English antiques, luxurious linens, and fresh flowers-a romantic reflection of a bygone era. Visit thecharotteinn.com.

J.McLaughlin’s Sabrina ABASK’s 1910 Sterling Silver Goliath Pocket

Poncho ($368), Camel

Watch honors the importance of keeping

Plaid Clara Cashmere

track of time in ancient periods, when mobile

Turtleneck ($398),

phones didn’t exist. $2,475 at abask.com.

and Ivory Brandy Pants ($278). Visit jmclaughlin.com.

Elevate your style with this Asprey Zebra Silk Scarf in Caramel, inspired by the African savanna. $450 at asprey.com.

Greenleaf & Crosby’s 18k White Gold Red Spinel Diamond Fan Earrings. $15,200 at greenleafcrosby.com

C O U R TE S Y OF RE S P E C TI V E B R AN DS

or at the Worth Avenue boutique.

Elizabeth Gage’s gorgeous 18ct yellow gold Charlemagne ring featuring a beautiful oval faceted mint-green tourmaline on a polished bombé shank. The gallery of the ring is decorated with a further three mint-green tourmalines to each side and eight round brilliant-cut diamonds. $19,350 at elizabeth-gage.com.

Enjoy shopping al fresco, private appointments, and curbside pickup at Ala von Auersperg’s Charleston

Aztech Mountain’s Snowbird Vest ($895),

boutique. Located at 102

Duane Street Cashmere Hoody ($2,800), and

Church Street. Contact

Performance Ski New Fit Pant ($1,200).

holland@alavonauersperg.

Visit aztechmountain.com or the Tribeca

com or 843.789.3895.

Flagship at 42 Hudson Street in New York, New York.

Successor to the Steinkraus saddle and more recently to the Hermès Allegro, the Hermès Vivace saddle offers an unprecedented sensation of closeness between the horse and its rider by eliminating unnecessary thickness and pressure points for improved comfort. Price upon request at hermes.com.

Dr. Barbara Sturm’s new Super Anti-Aging Eye Serum presents an ingredient science-based formulation to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fatigue, and puffiness around the eyes. $300 at drsturm.com.

C O U R TE S Y OF RE S P E C TI V E B R AN DS

The Colony Palm Beach’s dog bowl is heavy-duty and ready for the family pet. $40 at thecolonyedit.com. Enjoy a road trip to Ocean House, an iconic New England seaside resort perched high on the bluffs of Watch Hill, Rhode Island. Visit oceanhouseri.com for reservations. OCTOBER 2023 67

HANDSOME PROPERTIES: A CHARLESTON LEGACY B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY

NESTLED ALONG the southeastern coastline, Charleston’s real estate market shines as a top choice for those in search of an extraordinary place to call home. Beyond its historic significance, the picturesque city—where ancient oaks line cobblestone streets—offers an ideal year-round lifestyle with an exciting culinary scene, idyllic weather, and proximity to pristine beaches and 68 QUEST

R E A L E S TAT E

Clockwise from top left: The interiors and exterior of 83 East Bay Street, a Handsome Properties listing. Opposite page, from above: Exterior of 83 East Bay Street; Broker-in-Charge

C O U R TE S Y OF H AN DS O M E P ROP E R TI E S

Deborah “Debbie” C. Fisher.

R E A L E S TAT E

Interiors of 38 Tradd Street, a Handsome Properties listing. Opposite

P H OTO C RE DI T G OE S H E RE

page: Exterior of 38 Tradd Street.

C O U R TE S Y OF H AN DS O M E P ROP E R TI E S

waterways. Since its founding in 2008, boutique real estate firm Handsome Properties has been a leader in navigating this special market. Most notably, it brokered the sale of the city’s priciest home in 2021, on top of a track record of successfully advising sellers and matching buyers to their downtown residences, the surrounding suburbs, and the nearby barrier islands. The company, which just celebrated its 15th anniversary in August, is led by Broker-In-Charge Deborah C. Fisher. According to Fisher, in addition to the firm’s advanced technology, it’s the agents at Handsome Properties who are to credit for the firm’s success. “Our agents are true professionals with a high level of education in real estate and weekly training on topics such as zoning, architectural preferences, city guidelines, insurance, market conditions, and upcoming listings,” explained Fisher. Above all, the agents are true connoisseurs of the Charleston lifestyle. “They assist clients as they navigate the local scene and help out-of-town buyers assimilate into the community by providing information about schools, local charities, new restaurants, charitable events, and more,” said Fisher. And it doesn’t end there—service continues after the

closing for any other home needs including renovation, interior design, architectural design, and landscape design. Handsome Properties, which has become a touchstone for real estate firms in South Carolina, maintains its status as an active community member. “Our agents care deeply about our community and as a company we sponsor many charitable institutions and events, including preservation foundations, local food banks, and Habitat for Humanity,” said Fisher. Charleston’s charm lies not only in its physical beauty but also in the intangible sense of grace and southern hospitality that envelops its residents. The agents at Handsome Properties perfectly exemplify the southern hospitality as they welcome customers into their new homes. They are more than mere facilitators of real estate transactions; they are stewards of a Charleston tradition that places genuine care for visitors at the forefront. When asked what she enjoyed most about her work, Fisher replied, “I love when my clients feel happy when they sell or buy. A home sale transaction or even a rental transaction is life changing. We’re here to make the process seamless and the clients happy!” ◆ OCTOBER 2023 71

ELIZABETH GAGE CELEBRATES 60 YEARS OF TIMELESS ELEGANCE

SINCE ESTABLISHING her namesake brand in 1963, British jewelry designer Elizabeth Gage has captivated the world with her artistic vision and exceptional craftsmanship. Instantly recognizable for their distinctive style and bold aesthetics, her iconic designs incorporate various materials including precious metals, gemstones, and enamel. Elizabeth has long been known for choosing stones not simply for their value alone, but rather for their beauty and complementary shapes and colors. Each piece is designed to tell its own story, drawing inspiration from a wide range of sources, from nature and art to history and mythology. This year, the brand is celebrating its 60th anniversary. Over the past six decades, Elizabeth’s work has earned her a loyal following and many accolades, including the prestigious Queen’s Award for Export, British Jewelry Designer of the Year, and a De Beers award. To toast the occasion, Elizabeth Gage is releasing a one-off anniversary collection, paying homage to the brand’s rich heritage and tracing Elizabeth’s design journey. The line features Elizabeth’s renowned motifs, signature goldwork techniques, unique gemstone combinations, and intricate detailing. Elizabeth Gage will also host a series of celebratory events and exhibitions, inviting guests to experience its legacy first-hand. The inaugural show will take place at Club Colette in Palm Beach from November 8th – 10th and will showcase the brand’s latest collection, delving into the history behind each piece. Commenting on the milestone, 72 QUEST

Elizabeth expressed: “When you do what you love, you will always succeed. I broke away from what was expected of me and went into jewelry design because that was my calling. I don’t know why or how it happened; it was just instinctive. Being able to create unique beauty that transcends time and brings the past into the present and making it wearable is what I have always striven for. This milestone is a testament to the unwavering dedication of my team, our skilled craftsmen, and the unwavering support of our clients.” u For more information or to attend the event at Club Colette, email sales@elizabeth-gage.com.

C O U R TE S Y OF E L I Z AB ETH G AG E

B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY

JEWELRY

From above: The Templar Bracelet, $19,995 (left) and South Sea Cultured Pearl Bracelet, $27,090 (right); Tanzanite Charlemagne Ring, $38,700 (left), Aquamarine, Pearl, Diamond Earrings, $23,220 (center), and Mandarin Garnet Heliotrope Ring, $20,640 (right). Opposite page: An Elizabeth Gage craftsman and pieces from the anniversary collection.

OCTOBER 2023 73

ARBITERS OF AMERICAN STYLE

C F DA

BY ELIZABETH MEIGHER

FA S H I O N

Clockwise from top left: C.Z. Guest and Cornelia Guest attend the Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1981, reimagined as inspiration for Dennis Basso’s Spring-Summer 2024 collection; C.Z. Guest wears a Mainbocher evening coat while playing with her dog, Tiger, at home on Long Island in 1988; Ali MacGraw and Cornelia Guest at an event for the Humane Society of New York. Opposite page: Dennis Basso and Cornelia Guest walk the runway during the designer’s Spring-

DE N N I S B A S S O ( ORI G I N AL P H OTO B Y ROS E H AR T M AN / G ET T Y I M AG E S ) ; AN DRÉ L E ON TAL L EY ; OWE N H OF F M AN N / P M C

Summer 2024 runway show at 583 Park Avenue.

C.Z. GUEST Few have better exemplified great American style than C.Z. Guest. She was classically beautiful- tall, blonde, and trim, with cool blue eyes, pale skin, and a strong jawline that matched her selfassured demeanor. She is forever remembered for her impeccable taste, sharp wit, and enduring sense of style. Born Lucy Douglas Cochrane in 1920, her brother nicknamed her “Sissy”, which she embraced and later transformed into “C.Z.”—a moniker that eventually became part of her persona. The daughter of a prominent Boston family, C.Z. refused to fall into the fold of expectations. After graduating from the exclusive Fermata School (an all-girls boarding school in Aiken, SC), she was voted glamour girl of the Massachusetts North Shore in 1939. The title sparked her interest with the stage, leading to a performance in Broadway’s 1944 Zigfield Follies. She moved to Holywood and spent six months signed with 20th Century Fox (although she never appeared in a film). She dated movie stars (Victor J. Mature, Erroll Flynn…) and posed for famous artists—before eventually marrying handsome polo player Winston Frederick Churchill Guest. The two married in Havana, Cuba in 1947 (Ernest Hemingway was the OCTOBER 2023 75

Clockwise from top left: Mrs. Winston F.C. Guest wrapped in a chinchilla fur stoll, photographed by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, 1955; Cornelia Guest walks the finale of Dennis Basso’s Spring-Summer 2024 runway show; C.Z. Guest, Halston, Steve Rubell,

best man). Of her three-time, World Champion Polo player husband (who was a cousin of England’s Prime Minister, Sir Winston Churchill), C.Z. once said, “I was absolutely crazy about him. My God, he was devastating”. The couple split their time between Palm Beach, FL and Old Westbury, NY where equestrian C.Z. rode horses and kept immaculate gardens. She was often seen wearing elegant outfits by Mainbocher (to whom she remained loyal for his simple styles and fine tailoring), or jodhpurs and riding boots paired with a white T-shirt or a fitted button-down—her unfussy, clean-cut “look” became the standard of All-American style. C.Z. had two children, a son, Alexander, and a daughter, Cornelia. Cornelia not only inherited her mother’s blonde hair and beauty, but she also shares her sense of adventure and zest for life. At the 1981-82 Waldorf Astoria’s annual Debutante Cotillion benefitting the Infirmary-Beekman Downtown Hospital, Cornelia and C.Z. decided to pass on the portion where debutantes carry candles and align crouched on the ground in white dresses—opting instead for the more relaxed scene at Studio 54 (why should Cornelia sit on a dusty floor in her pretty Carolina Herrera gown?). Cornelia danced the night 06 7 0 QUEST

away (although after slipping on the dance floor, ended up in a dirty dress and a trip to Madame Paulette’s dry cleaner the following day). Cornelia shares her mother’s love of dogs and animals (Cornelia has long been associated with the Humane Society of New York), the outdoors, gardening, and theater (she’s appeared in Twin Peaks and American Horror Stories, to name a few). She is an accomplished equestrian, and naturally—she has inherited her mother’s sense of style. Sporty and outdoorsy by day, effortlessly chic by night. Having grown up taking style tips from Halston, and with access to her mother’s closet and friends like Carolina Herrera, fashion was always part of her life. Like C.Z., Cornelia is a good friend and loyal follower of the people she believes in—one of whom is the vibrantly talented designer, Dennis Basso. Cornelia first met Basso when C.Z. took teenaged Cornelia to see his show at The Regency Hotel in 1983. The two became fast friends and before long were hitting the town together, enjoying nights that started with dinner at Le Cirque or “21”, and ended in dancing at Le Club or Studio 54. For his Spring-Summer 2024 collection, Dennis Basso was inspired by “the style and grace of great American families, especially C.Z. and Cornelia Guest”. Known for his perpetual spirit and unqualified glamour, Basso looked to a photo of the mother-daughter duo from the 1981 Met Gala, artfully weaving it into his latest runway show. Trends may come and go, but as the designer and his muse walked hand-in-hand down the runway, one everlasting truth seemed clear—along with forty years of friendship, Cornelia Guest and Dennis Basso share an eye for style that withstands the test of time. u

L O U I S E DAH L - WOL F E ; G I L B E R T F L ORE S / W WD V I A G ET T Y I M AG E S ; F RO M M Y M OTH E R , C . Z . ( C ORN E L I A G U E S T / H ARP E R ’ S B A Z AAR )

and Cornelia at Studio 54 in 1985.

FA S H I O N

Models walk the runway of Dennis Basso’s Spring-Summer 2024 Ready-to-Wear Show at

G I L B E R T F L ORE S / W W D V I A G ET T Y I M AG E S

583 Park Avenue in New York City.

OCTOBER 2023 77

BOOKS

THE BEATING HEART OF ST BARTHS B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY

78 QUEST

AN ICONIC CARIBBEAN resort, Eden Rock St Barths boasts a rich history dating back to the 1940s when pioneering Franco-Dutch aviator, Rémy de Haenen, serendipitously discovered a rugged promontory while landing his plane on the shores of St. Jean Bay. Recognizing the island’s untapped potential as a vacation haven, Haenen acquired the plot in 1950 and, by 1953, had begun construction on his residence, which he eventually transformed into a charming bed-and-breakfast. It instantly captivated travelers, drawing luminaries like Greta Garbo and Robert Mitchum. Today, under the stewardship of Oetker Collection and the Matthews family, who acquired the property in 2014, this secluded retreat continues to captivate This spread: The last takeoff of the day at golden hour; the cover of

C O U R TE S Y OF A S S OU L I N E ; RO M AI N RÉ G L ADE

Assouline’s Eden Rock St Barths (inset).

OCTOBER 2023 79

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C O U R TE S Y OF RO M AI N RÉ G L ADE ; T. DE H AE N E N ; JAN E B L AC K

global jetsetters, offering 37 rooms and villas, three chic restaurants and bars, and a cutting-edge spa. In celebration of its 70th anniversary, Assouline just unveiled a new coffee table book dedicated to the establishment. With an introduction by British journalist and St Barths frequenter Vassi Chamberlain, the tome features exclusive archival imagery from the hotel’s early days, taking readers on a visual tour around the estate and its surroundings. Moreover, it delves into the fascinating history of St Barths, which Christopher Columbus first set eyes on in 1493, naming it after his brother Bartholomew. In the centuries that followed, the island’s history is characterized by shifting sovereignty, from early indigenous Carib tribes to French possession in the 17th and 18th centuries and its reclamation from Sweden in 1878. In 1946, around the time of Haenen’s encounter, the residents

BOOKS Guests ride to Jojo Burger, the best place to enjoy delicious burgers on the island. Opposite page, clockwise from above: The terrace of the unique Premium Suite Fregate; the Christopher Columbus Signature Suite offers an open bathroom and 360-degree views of the surroundings; landing in SaintJean the Caribbean way—on the

C O U R TE S Y OF RO M AI N RÉ G L ADE

water; map of St Barths.

OCTOBER 2023 81

BOOKS

An aerial view of the Rock and the hotel’s plantation area. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Reflections on the beach; newlyweds Maya and Jacques on the morning after their wedding celebration; the dreamiest beach

C O U R TE S Y OF P I X E L S C REATI ON

at Eden Rock; enjoy a pathway to Caribbean heaven.

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C O U R TE S Y OF RO M AI N RÉ G L ADE ; P I X E L S C REATI ON ; J EAN N E L E M E N N ; N OE DEWI T T

of St Barths were granted French citizenship with full rights. “As Haenen himself was French, and perhaps because his instinct told him his beloved craggy bluff might have a future, he decided to spearhead the change [he wanted] by running for office,” said Chamberlain. Haenen went on the become the island’s consul general in 1953 and mayor in 1962. His visionary leadership resulted in the construction of the island’s inaugural airstrip and road network, pivotal milestones that laid the groundwork for its transformation into a premier tourist destination. His home became the island’s first hotel in 1956. “There’s no question Rémy de Haenen started tourism on St Barths,” said Fabrice Moizan, Eden Rock’s general manager. “He was the magnet for everyone to come here. During his time, it became the most famous bed-and-breakfast for all those who wanted to live in an exotic European way.” Today, although an ultra-luxe hotel, Eden Rock St Barths maintains the atmosphere of familial warmth that characterized Haenen’s original bed-and-breakfast. “We became very attracted to the principle of it not being a hotel, of people coming to a place where they felt at home,” expressed current owner David Matthews. “Every person, whether they only stay once or become a returning guest, is treated by the team as someone special,” said loyal guest Sharon Hudaly. Pick up a copy of Assouline’s work to feel part of the family. u

SITUATED ON 104± magical acres featuring open meadows, stone walls, mature gardens, ponds, and distant views situated off a scenic dirt road, this one-of-a-kind estate includes a main house complex featuring a series of converted period barns with exposed posts and

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beams throughout. The centerpiece of the main house is the stunning living room, which is an antique barn with a vaulted ceiling, floorto-ceiling wood burning fireplace, and French doors overlooking one of the ponds. The home also features a dining room with fireplace; eat-in

C O U R TE S Y OF K L E M M REAL E S TATE

UNSURPASSED ESTATE IN CONNECTICUT

OPEN HOUSE

Clockwise from above: Outdoor seating with views of open meadows; exterior shot of the home; kitchen; stone terrace with dining pavilion; living room with fireplace. Opposite page, counterclockwise from above: Aerial view of the two homes; screened porch with fireplace; primary bedroom with fireplace; outdoor pool with sweeping views.

country kitchen; and four en-suite bedrooms with bathrooms. Ideal for entertaining year round is the screened (glass in winter) porch with fireplace and the stone terrace with dining pavilion and outdoor fireplace. Amenities include a swimming pool, three-car attached garage, long driveway, and a separate two-bedroom guest house. While proximate to the villages of

Washington Depot and New Preston, the property is surrounded by land trust offering ultimate privacy and enjoys only the sounds of nature. A rare property. u Listed for $11,000,000. For more information, visit klemmrealestate.com. Contact Peter Klemm at peterklemm@ msn.com or Carolyn Klemm at carolynklemm@yahoo.com.

OCTOBER 2023 85

CALENDAR

OCTOBER

On October 11th, the Preservation Society of Charleston will host its fall tours through November 4th. For more information, visit preservationsociety.org.

HANK’S PUMPKINTOWN

Throughout October, Hank’s Pumpkintown in Water Mill invites guests for pumpkin picking, apple picking, corn mazes, wagon rides, tractor train rides, giant slides, games, playgrounds, and more. Its market features freshly baked pies, cookies, cupcakes, candy apples, cidar, and donuts. For more information, visit hankspumpkintown.com.

“Lunch at a Landmark” event at New York Yacht Club. The speaker, Jeanne Gang of Studio Gang,

will welcome guests. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit nylpf.org.

JACK O’LANTERN BLAZE

Meander through an 18th-century landscape at Van Cortlandt Manor in Croton-on-Hudson, New York to discover the Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze, a breathtaking display of more than 7,000 illuminated jack o’ lanterns—all designed and hand-carved on site by a team of artisans. New for 2023 is a twirling pumpkin ferris wheel! For more information, visit pumpkinblaze.org.

LUNCH AT A LANDMARK

New York Landmarks Preservation Foundation will host its annual 86 QUEST

HAMPTONS FILM

The 31st International Hamptons Film Festival will take place through October 12th. HamptonsFilm was founded in 1992 to celebrate the art of film and to introduce a unique and varied spectrum of international films and filmmakers to its audiences with an annual film festival each October. A non-profit organization with year-round screenings of global narrative and documentary films, a screenwriters lab, and extensive educational initiatives, HamptonsFilm produces programs that enlighten, educate, and provide invaluable exposure for filmmakers, while also providing the East End of Long Island with an educational and cultural experience that enriches the lives of its citizens and contributes to the local economy. For more information, visit hamptonsfilm.org. PALM BEACH SYMPHONY

Throughout October, the Great Jack O’Lantern Blaze will take place at Van Cortlandt Manor in Croton-on-Hudson, New York. For more information, visit pumpkinblaze.com.

Young Friends of Palm Beach Symphony will hold its season opener reception at The Colony Hotel. By invitation. For more information, visit palmbeachsymphony.org.

CALENDAR

will hold its first black-tie Masquerade at the Colony Palm Beach. Guests will enjoy music, dancing, spooky science shows, Halloween-themed culinary delights and “mystery” beverages while donning ball attire and captivating masks. The evening will preview into the Science Center’s multimillion capital campaign and its annual signature event, themed in 2024 as “Oceans Alive!” For more information and to purchase tickets, visit coxsciencecenter.org.

NOVEMBER 3 KIPS BAY DALLAS

On October 16th, the Frick Collection’s Autumn Dinner will celebrate the institution and its enduring legacy. For more information, visit frick.org.

CHARLESTON TOURS

The Preservation Society of Charleston will host its fall tours through November 4th. The series includes the House and Gardens Tours, Insider’s Architecture Tours, and Insider’s History Tours. For more information, visit preservationsociety.org.

Bradford at hss@blbnyc.com or 212.465.3240.

ABT FALL GALA

American Ballet Theatre will host its Fall Gala at the David H. Koch Theater. The Fall Gala will feature a one time only program of beloved classical and contemporary pas de

deux performed by ABT Principal Dancers. The evening will showcase talented young dancers from the ABT Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis School and ABT Studio Company. For more information, visit abt.org.

MASQUERADE BALL

Cox Science Center and Aquarium

For the fourth year, Kips Bay Show House Dallas will be open to the public for two weeks. The highly esteemed design event has claimed 9446 Hathaway Street in Dallas as its location. Situated in the heart of the Old Preston Hollow neighborhood, this tasteful and refined classic five-bedroom house includes four living areas on 1.7 acres. The property includes a pool and outdoor living spaces as well as a three-car garage with built-in storage. Designers will transform individual rooms before opening to the public for viewing. For more information, visit kipsbaydecoratorshowhouse.org.

AUTUMN DINNER

The Frick Collection’s Autumn Dinner will celebrate the institution and its enduring legacy. The annual black-tie event raises vital funds to support the many important activities of the museum and Frick Art Reference Library, including conservation, education programs, and special exhibitions. For more information, visit frick.org.

HSS BENEFIT

The Hospital for Special Surgery will hold its 2023 Autumn Benefit at Gustavino’s at 6:30 p.m. The signature event is dedicated to raising essential funds for hospital’s world-renowned medical education program. Your support enables HSS to strengthen the key pillars of excellence—training, research, education, and academic programming—for the ultimate benefit of patients worldwide. For more information, contact Blake

On October 27th, Cox Science Center and Aquarium will its first black-tie Masquerade Ball. For more information and to purchase tickets for the Halloween-themed event, visit coxsciencecenter.org. OCTOBER 2023 87

Step inside Charleston’s impeccably preserved house museums to find centuries-old architecture, classical design, verdant gardens, and historically significant stories from the world-renowned city’s nuanced past. B Y M O L LY R A M S E Y

C O U R TE S Y OF N ATH AN I E L RU S S E L L H OU S E

WELCOME IN

From above: Nathaniel Russell House is home to the only three-story, free-flying cantilever staircase on Charleston’s peninsula; the house’s interior. Opposite page:

C O U R TE S Y OF N ATH AN I E L RU S S E L L H OU S E

Entrance of Nathaniel Russell House.

A TRIP TO CHARLESTON calls for leisurely strolls through historic neighborhoods — ambling atop cobblestone streets, admiring centuries-old brick and stucco façades, and stealing glances at bloom-filled gardens tucked behind wroughtiron gates. Indeed, part of the Holy City’s endearing appeal is its impeccably preserved historic districts, where whole neighborhoods of 18th- and 19th-century manses shine thanks to many decades of thoughtful stewardship and organized preservation efforts. While you stroll, you may find yourself wishing you could take a closer look at some of the properties—to step over the threshold and see what’s inside. Thanks to work by the Preservation Society of Charleston—which, established in 1920, was the first of its kind in the United States—as well as the Historic Charleston Foundation, Charleston Museum, and other preservation-minded organizations, several of the

oldest and most historically significant homes in Charleston and the surrounding areas are open to public viewing. Whether you are a history buff, design lover, or architecture aficionado, read on for a few of the must-visit house museums around town.

NATHANIEL RUSSELL HOUSE If you’re seeking an opulent and artfully restored peek into life in historic downtown Charleston, the Nathaniel Russell House awaits. Located in the heart of Charleston’s famed historic South of Broad neighborhood, this National Historic Landmark is perhaps best known for its grand staircase: a three-story, freeflying, cantilevered masterpiece. Filled with period furnishings and décor, the neoclassical home and its landscaped gardens have been restored as closely as possible to their original 1808 splendor, offering an immersive tour experience. OCTOBER 2023 89

Once owned by William Aiken, Jr.,—the governor of South Carolina from 1844 to 1846—this 1820-built home was, at one time, considered among the grandest in Charleston, and remained in the Aiken-Rhett family for 142 years before being sold to the Charleston Museum and opened to the public in 1975. During a tour, you will see elements of the preserved-as-found residence’s original design—including wallpaper, art, and furnishings—as well as the virtually untouched 19th-century slave quarters. Together, they offer a powerful look at life in the urban antebellum South. From above: The exterior of Aiken-Rhett House; Aiken-Rhett House’s Double Drawing Room. Opposite page, clockwise from above: Touring McLeod Plantation; former slave quarters; the Main House; views of the Ashley River. 90 QUEST

C O U R TE S Y OF AI K E N - RH ET T H OU S E

AIKEN-RHETT HOUSE

MCLEOD PLANTATION HISTORIC SITE

C O U R TE S Y OF M C L E OD P L AN TATI ON H I S TORI C S I TE

Charleston’s world-renowned architectural beauty—and the wealth that enabled it—was, of course, made possible due to the unpaid labor of enslaved Africans who worked on area plantations. McLeod Plantation Historic Site—located just across the Ashley River from downtown Charleston on James Island—offers impactful and necessary context to the city’s opulence. On a visit to the 37-acre Gullah/Geechee heritage site, you can tour the McLeod family’s 1851-built main property, as well as a series of restored slave dwellings. Guided tours trace the emergence of Gullah culture in the South Carolina Lowcountry, as well as the history and legacy of the enslaved people who lived and worked on the property.

(below) of the Edmondston-Alston House.

EDMONDSTON-ALSTON HOUSE No visit to Charleston is complete without a stroll along the Battery, a bluestone-topped seawall and promenade that stands between the southernmost tip of the downtown peninsula and the waters of the Charleston Harbor. While you’re there, stop by the Edmonston-Alston House, which is one of the oldest residences located along High Battery, or the eastern stretch of the seawall that gazes out toward Sullivan’s Island. Constructed circa-1825, this harborside house museum showcases grand Federal and Greek Revival design, including period silver, furnishings, and decorative arts.

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C OU R TE S Y OF E D M ON DS TON - AL S TON H OU S E

The exterior (above) and interior

C O U R TE S Y OF M I DDL ETON P L AC E

MIDDLETON PLACE If you have a green thumb, this National Historic Landmark should top your list. Established in 1741 and located along the Ashley River, Middleton Place is home to America’s oldest landscaped gardens, which were designed following the principles of André Le Nôtre, the classical garden designer who landscaped the Palace of Versailles. In addition to 64 acres of manicured gardens, you can tour the Middleton Place House Museum, which displays centuries-old artifacts, art, furnishings, and documents that tell the story of generations of Middleton Place residents, both free and enslaved. ◆ Clockwise from top left: The gardens at Middleton Place; Middleton Place House Museum; pond view at Middleton Place. OCTOBER 2023 93

BY JULIA JANE DUGGAN

S U S AN N E P O M M E R / AL A M Y S TO C K P H OTO

A CHARLESTON LOCAL’S PERFECT WEEKEND: IN & AROUND TOWN

C O U R TE S Y OF M AL AG ÓN

LIVING IN CHARLESTON comes with many luxuries, one of the best being that weekends are essentially 48-hour blank canvases for a whirlwind of adventures. From enjoying delicious cuisine to swimming in the ocean in one of the neighboring islands, I’ve recapped a perfect weekend that could only be made possible in this special city. FRIDAY All good weekends start on the porch. In the summer, I try to take advantage of the South Carolina peach season as much as possible, and my favorite throw-together snack is freshly sliced peach topped with arugula, prosciutto, goat cheese, and a drizzle of balsamic glaze—enjoyed, of course, on the porch

after the workday is over. Next, it’s time to stroll over to one of downtown Charleston’s many exceptional restaurants, Malagón. An authentic Spanish taperia located in the Cannonborough-Elliotborough neighborhood, Malagón is the perfect place to go with a group of friends or on an intimate date. Get the paella of the day, delivered in a gigantic cast iron and served family style. The many small plates are fun to share, and the atmosphere is elevated (but never pretentious). After you’ve fueled up on fresh shrimp, aged cheese, and the like, Opposite page: View of the St. Michael’s Church from the intersection of Broad Street and King Street. From above: Horse carriage ride in downtown Charleston; interior of Malagón. OCTOBER 2023 95

This page, counterclockwise from above: The Royal American; Felix Cocktails et Cuisine; King Street Dispensary.

SATURDAY Wake up, it’s a sunny Saturday! Another luxury of downtown Charleston living is the abundance of corner stores, coffee shops, and breakfast spots eager to caffeinate and console your stomach with coffee and toasted bagels. After heading out to the beach, venture to Sullivan’s Island for a lovely day of bright rays, kitesurf watching, and floating in the Atlantic. When your skin has taken all the heat it can handle, head home, rinse off, and then go sit at the Leon’s Oyster Shop bar. A converted gas station-turned-restaurant by one of the Holy City’s most talented restaurateurs (Brooks Reitz; all of his concepts are A+), Leon’s presents rustic charm in a relaxed setting with some of the finest oysters, fried chicken, and soft serve ice cream you could ever want. No trip to Charleston is complete without a visit here. Souls satisfied; End the night on a quiet note. 00 QUEST

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why not jaunt over to King Street and grab an espresso martini from Félix Cocktails et Cuisine? People-watching while sitting on the sidewalk bistro chairs is an activity in itself. Energized and ready to roll, the next stop is Royal American, where you can catch a rock band and get your fill of Charleston’s hip, creative crowd. Then head back down to King Street and end the night dancing with one last stop at Dispensary, a sophisticated, no frills or fuss sports bar. Pedicab or walk it back home under the Carolina moon.

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Clockwise from top left: Charleston pedicab; Dirty Martini at

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Leon’s Oyster Shop; inside Leon’s.

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Clockwise from above: Ravenel Bridge; boats in Mount

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Pleasant; walking path in Mount Pleasant.

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From above: Babas on Cannon; guitar player at Royal American.

SUNDAY I write this while at Babas on Canon, a European, old-worldinspired café beloved by locals—a coffee to cocktails spot, with a thoughtfully curated small menu of dishes like pickled shrimp and tomato sandwiches. I’m sitting next to a French family on my right and a studious reader on my left—two groups of people that perfectly illustrate the clientele (and then there’s me…blonde hair in a messy top knot with sparkly blue toenail polish). Now back to regularly scheduled programming. After breakfast at Babas at Canon, take a walk across the Ravenel bridge, the connector between the downtown peninsula and Mount Pleasant, and as I like to call it, Charleston’s only mountain. Walking over water with views of boat-goers, sailboat crews, and transport barges is truly a medley of sea activities to observe. Isn’t the best way to cap things off always with music? End the weekend by catching a show at The Windjammer, a venue situated on the beach of Isle of Palms—a unique setting that makes the music sound even better. With this exciting weekend wrapped up, do you hear Charleston calling? ◆ OCTOBER 2023 99

BY MICHAEL TROUCHE

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SOUTH CAROLINA PLANTATIONS: AN OLD LOOK WITH A NEW PURPOSE

From above: A postcard from the late 19th century shows the arrival of a steamboat at Magnolia Plantation; an image taken in 1900 by William Henry Jackson for the Detroit Publishing Company shows six members of the garden staff posed at Magnolia Plantation; by 1880, when this ticket was issued, visits to Magnolia Gardens during the spring bloom were commonplace. Opposite

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page: Magnolia Plantation.

THE PLANTATION SYSTEM played the most critical role in South Carolina’s emergence as a thriving colony centuries ago, and continues to enhance the natural beauty and abundance that makes our coast so enticing today. Agriculture was the best means to harness the productivity of tidal creeks and rivers, windswept sea islands, and the often humid, subtropical climate. Rice was an ideal grain for such conditions—as tidal manipulation could encourage growth and eliminate competing grasses—and flourished in the sunny climate as growers gained an added benefit from river channels and proximity to sea lanes

to make substantial fortunes. West African slave labor and European ingenuity transformed wild coastal areas into thriving tracts, and the plantation owners accumulated great wealth, and built grand country estates lined with avenues of moss-covered live oaks. Slaves moved huge sections of earth to form impoundments, where Dutch-inspired methods of water level control made for an abundance of rice. Higher ground that was not flooded proved to have ingrained advantages as well, as sea island plantations benefitted from welldrained, loamy soil that got months of heat and sun. Such condiOCTOBER 2023 101

Drayton, circa 1760; Charles H. “Charlie” Drayton III (left) and Richmond Bowens, Jr., descendants of the Drayton and Bowens families, at Drayton Hall. 102 QUEST

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Clockwise from top left: Drayton Hall; portrait of Charles

tions proved ideal for indigo and cotton production, but eventually cotton became king because of its demand worldwide. One little-known tidbit about how indigo became a gold mine for plantation owners during the mid 1700s was directly the result of The War of Jenkins’ Ear. In 1739, an English privateering vessel was captured in the Caribbean by Spanish authorities, who punished Captain Robert Jenkins by cutting off his ear. Whether it was the same appendage or not, a severed ear was soon presented to British parliament, which pressed King George II to wage war. George was simultaneously involved in the War of Austrian Succession with the French, and a strategy emerged of blockading both Spain and France’s Caribbean ports to cut off money for battle. As it turned out, the French and Spanish colonies that were producing indigo lost their markets for more than 10 years, during which time South Carolina became the number one supplier of indigo in the world. Today things are considerably more peaceful and relaxed on the once-bustling plantations. Some, such as Middleton Place, Drayton Hall, and Magnolia Plantation, have been converted into popular tourist destinations. In these places, visitors can still see the active system of rice trunks and gates

From above: Fox hunt at Airy Hall Plantation in South Carolina, photographed by Chia Chong; Charlotta Drayton with her beloved dog, Nipper, and an unidentified boy. She was the last member of the

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Drayton family to spend significant amount of time at the plantation.

that were opened to fill or empty fields. There are also artisans at these locations who can still brew up a kettle of indigo, and ask for volunteers to have their socks turned purple. But is the essence of these and so many other plantations of the grandeur and spectacle, with palatial Georgian style mansions, and acres of fresh water swamp, timberlands, and rice fields. The great watersheds up and down our coast serve as giant filters for the sparkling water that drifts past plantations, and is the source of most drinking water in the lower state today. Natural resources and well-planned management plans make our plantations ideal for wildlife and outdoor enthu-

siasts, as well as traditional uses, such as timber harvesting. Prescribed burning is a tremendously effective tool used on South Carolina plantations to prevent wildfire, open up forage for hundreds of animal species, as well as providing the needed scorching of long-leaf pine cones to stimulate seed dispersal of this very valuable tree. Coastal plantations are grand venues for a variety events that may range from polo to weddings, as oak alleys, bald cypress ponds, and river vistas create a sense of outdoor sculpture. Because of the pristine nature of the South Carolina coast, plantation fields and wetlands attract a multitude of ducks, geese, swans, deer, owls, doves, songbirds, shorebirds, and foxes. Along with popular participation in shooting game or sporting clays, another plantation tradition is the fox hunt, in which riders don’t kill any animals but have a grand time racing through fields and forests in their traditional colors. For more quiet enjoyment, a paddling excursion or hike along rice dikes and tidal creeks is a glorious sensual experience, as foot or paddle takes people past ancient trees and historic houses and rice mills while the sun simmers majestically on the gentle water. u OCTOBER 2023 103

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THE DEWBERRY: A HOLY CITY HAVEN BY EVAN EDWARDS

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AS GUESTS MAKE their way through the original revolving door of the former L. Mendel Rivers Federal Building in Charleston, South Carolina, they are greeted with a whiff of fresh berries, coastal botanicals and notes of warm woodsy spices—the signature scent of The Dewberry hotel. Since its opening in June of 2016, The Dewberry has established itself as one of the most sought-after lodging locales in the Southeast, even securing a membership with Historic Hotels of America. Brainchild of owner and founder, John Dewberry, The Dewberry marries a Midcentury modern aesthetic with personalized attention to detail from your first step inside the award-winning hotel. Located in the heart of the city on bustling Meeting Street, The Dewberry is just steps away from local hot spots, weekly farmers’ markets and historical treasures. Yet, you may find yourself spending most of your time indulging in all of the hotel’s luxe offerings, including drinks at their lively rooftop cocktail lounge dubbed “Citrus Club,” signature treatments at the in-house spa, and delectable bites from the kitchen while Clockwise from top left: The Dewberry’s exterior; lobby; cocktails in The Living Room; Charleston Flat. Opposite page: The Dewberry’s Barton & Gray experience. OCTOBER 2023 105

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lounging in the stylish Living Room. And since Charleston is situated directly on the waterfront, accessibility to beaches like the Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island is a breeze. Guests can borrow one of The Dewberry’s Volvo cars, equipped with all the beach essentials, for a relaxing day in the sun and sand. Recently joining forces with the exclusive Barton & Gray Mariners Club, hotel guests can also reserve a luxury yachting charter to explore the nearby waters. Captained by a United States Coast Guard licensed crew, passengers will have the opportunity to sightsee Charleston and the nearby barrier islands aboard a classic Hinckley Picnic Boat. Charters, which are available September 15th through June 15th annually, can be customized and The Dewberry’s concierge team will arrange all of your on-board catering and special requests. A sunset yacht cruise guided by B&G’s renowned boatmen on the Charleston Harbor is the ultimate expedition to close out your stay in the Holy City. Jaimie Dewberry, who is married to owner and real estate developer John Dewberry and serves as the hotel’s Creative Director, enthusiastically commented on the partnership. “One of my husband John and my favorite parts about living in Charleston is experiencing the beautiful barrier islands and spending time on our boat in the Charleston harbor. While The Dewberry is centered in the heart of the city and is just steps away from the vibrant downtown, we wanted to provide guests with another way to experience all that the Lowcountry has to offer. Barton & Gray’s private yachting club was the perfect partner as its fleet captures the spirit of the hotel in both its beautifully sleek design, and its crew is welcoming and offers impeccable service. We worked together to create an exclusive package for guests of The Dewberry to feel like an extension of their hotel experience, and we could not be more excited to set sail together. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphin sightings!” As we settle into the fall season, The Dewberry has debuted several new amenities, including the John Derian flat, curated by John and Jaimie Dewberry. Inside the new space, guests will be charmed by a custom wall installation of decorative John Derian plates, luxe lighting, and many more rarities. John Derian himself has even debuted a collection of three exclusive products for retail, featuring a hand-illustrated print of local plants and flowers native to South Carolina by Charlestonbased artist Becca Barnet. Looking for a more hands-on experience? Partake in mixology classes with The Living Room and Citrus Club’s esteemed mixologists. Specifically tailored to unique flavor profiles, guests will learn how to make as well as enjoy three cocktails while snacking on light bites. The hotel is also preparing for the upcoming Christmas season. “This holiday season, we are once again collaborating with a brand on our famed holiday décor and Christmas tree. This has become a tradition that everyone—locals and hotel guests alike—come to know and expect as well as celebrate the holiday magic we create,” said Jaimie Dewberry. With its quaint alleyways, bustling culture scene and Southern charm, it is no secret that Charleston tops the list of many people’s go-to travel destinations. The Dewberry truly embraces its hometown to offer guests the most lavish escape, whether that be inside their stunning guest rooms, shopping on King Street, or exploring the seas. ◆

The Dewberry’s Barton & Gray experience; views from the Citrus Club (inset). Opposite page, from above: The Living Room bar; The

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Living Room; Relaxation Room in the spa.

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LESS POP AND MORE BANGS IN THE FIELD

When it comes to game shooting, Jonathan Young prefers to concentrate more on the sport and less on the bottle.

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BY JON AT H AN YOUN G

From above: Sandringham House; shooters and dogs walk during the opening day of the grouse shooting season, in Byrecleugh Farm, Longformacus, Duns. Opposite page: Gamekeeper (left) with a shooter on a driven grouse shoot in

Shots and farmers, all battered tweeds and knackered Barbours, had been joined by the newly wealthy who loved the razzmatazz of the sport - the dressing-up, the guns and the chance to demonstrate you could be equally Alpha in both field and finance. Commercial shoots mushroomed to meet this demand and billions of sterling have since poured into remote countryside that previously supported little more sheep. And they packaged themselves on an idea of shooting prevalent in some Edwardian shooting circles: big bags, lots of scoff, and plentiful drinks. King Edward Vll acquired the nickname Tum-Tum because he was a portly man who loved food and wine. Shooting was taken seriously at the royal estate of Sandringham (and still is) to the extent that the King introduced “Sandringham time” -

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the Scottish Highlands, 1922.

IMAGINE THE INCONVENIENCE. You’re out game shooting, miles from a pub, and suddenly you have a desperate urge for some chilled Champagne. Happily, in 2009 a famous London gunmaker teamed up with a luxury carmaker to build the ultimate vehicle for the rich and parched. This special edition shooting-brake came with two fitted cabinets: one with locks for the guns and another with refrigeration for the fizz. Even better, the latter was already stocked with Champagne, supplies of which were topped up free during the first year of ownership, to be sipped from the battery of hand-cut crystal flutes also nestling in the trunk. As an all-terrain bar it was a magnificent expression of how shooting had developed in the UK since the 1980s. The old-school

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half an hour earlier than Greenwich Mean Time - to maximise on the winter daylight. But so too were the shooting lunches, reportedly consisting of at least two hot courses and a plentitude of Chateau Lafite and vintage Champagne. On the next door estate the shooting was everything. Holkham was the cradle of driven game-shooting in Britain and its then owner, the 2nd Earl of Leicester, considered food as mere sustenance. Guns were expected to swallow a sandwich, gulp down a beer and chomp on a raw onion (and raw onions still feature today.). The Holkham model was adopted and adapted by most shoots up to the 1980s. On the grander, driven ones, there would be a sit-down affair - steak and kidney pudding, apple crumble - but on most it would be a pork pie, bottle of beer, and hunk of cheddar. As the British weather is usually dank and miserable, hip-flasks were commonly carried and shared sparingly, usually filled with homemade sloe gin or a Percy Special, a concoction of equal parts cherry brandy and whisky invented by the 10th Duke of Northumberland. It was wholesome and homespun but not what the new shooting market wanted. So elements of the Edwardian ‘Sandringham’ model, consciously or unconsciously, were taken and expanded. And drinking became extensive. Every shoot now had “elevenses” (snacks and drinks at 11 a.m.), with Champagne or sloegasms (sloe gin and fizz) as well as soup. At the more commercial ones, Guns would be offered the same between every drive, during the lulls while the beaters were 01 1 0 0Q Q UE USETS T

getting into position. At lunch, there’d be Bloody Marys before sitting down, then claret and port for the stilton. In some ways this is all rather jolly - akin to Christmas lunch without the tedious relatives - and myself and my friends have all indulged at some stage. When it’s done elegantly, in the oldschool manner, a shooting lunch with refreshments is one of the highlights of a rain-sodden British winter. Francis Fitzherbert, the 15th Baron Stafford and easily one of the greatest living game Shots, is decidedly in favour of this tradition. Stafford considers “drinking at elevens and at lunchtime essential as it makes the party. If you have shot well in the morning it is something to celebrate and if you haven’t shot as well as you would have liked it makes you relax and there is every chance you will shoot better in the afternoon. “I produce some of my best clarets and burgundy at lunch for two reasons. The first is that my friends are extremely impressed and surprised to see such good wine served at a shooting lunch. (I may well have produced the same wine the night before in decanters but more often than not no one is brave enough to comment - yet once they see the labels they can then speak with confidence as to what a lovely wine it is.) The second reason is that lunch only lasts perhaps an hour and a half so I get away with very few bottles, particularly as most people are driving.” He’s also a firm supporter of a snifter mid-morning. “Sloe gin at elevenses is as much part of the scene as mince pies at Christmas. In fact I take sloe gin so much for granted that at 11

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The south view of Holkham Hall.

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A 19th century shooting lunch; Serena Cross about to drop a high, driven bird; a shot of Sloe gin. ODCETCOE BMEBRE R 2 022032 101 0 10 1

Rachel Emma Manners, Duchess of Rutland; hunting party, grouse

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season, Ayrshire, 1936 (inset).

From above: Hugh Algernon Percy, 10th Duke of Northumberland, 1980; Sally Prendergast,

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shooting, with daughter Katie, loading.

a.m. on February 2nd [the day after the shooting season] I am looking around wondering where my glass of sloe gin is.” The secret, as with all agreeable vices, is to know one’s limits. A friend who’s run very famous shoots in the West Country says “it’s a good rule of thumb when shooting not to drink more than you would if driving a car.” The Duchess of Rutland agrees with holding back, advocating “a few glasses at least for the ladies, limited wine at lunch, and a sloe gin at elevenses - but all in moderation”. But increasingly people are turning away from the hard stuff altogether. My favourite shoot drink is ginger-beer shandy - half bitter, half ginger beer - which we all gulped down on a grouse moor last season while a very splendid magnum of Chateau La Grave a Pomerol sat untouched. You need to be on top form with driven grouse and why wreck a wonderful day’s sport by taking something that you absolutely know slows down your reactions and impairs judgement? And there’s another, far more serious aspect, pithily highlighted by Mark Osborne, owner of a sporting agency, land agent for over 40 years and a grouse moor guru: “I hate being a spoilsport but if you cannot drink on a clay shooting ground until after you have finished shooting, on safety grounds, it does

seem rather odd to be pouring drink down your throat when shooting in a far more dangerous (no ‘cage’) environment. “I believe I am just the sort of person who will shoot you on a moor- an experienced grouse Shot, old with slowing reactions and worsening eyesight (so I see the birds late). I do not think I am greedy but if you are (and such people exist) then with alcohol that would seem to be an added complication you do not need on a moor.” Osborne concludes: “A very small amount of alcohol may be ok, but it does need to be a very small amount, especially when grouse shooting. On higher birds it is less of a problem in my opinion but the combination of being greedy, slow, failing eyesight and alcohol - which does not enhance sense - is, I think, awful.” So the lesson? Buy a luxury shooting-brake by all means but fill her up with ginger beer and leave the Champagne alone until you’re home. ◆ Jonathan Young was editor of The Field, the world’s oldest fieldsports journal, for 29 years. ODCETCOE BMEBRE R 2 022032 11 0 10 3

BY CHRIS MEIGHER & ELIZABETH MEIGHER

“There is a harmony in autumn, and a luster in its sky, which through the summer is not heard or seen, as if it could not be, as if it had not been!” — Percy Bysshe Shelley 114 QUEST

S L I M AARON S / H U LTON ARC H I V E / G ET T Y I M AG E S

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Counterclockwise from top right: Queen Elizabeth II with her black labrador retrievers (and a beloved corgi mix, far right) in front of Balmoral Castle during a family holiday in Scotland, 1971; Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithfull in between flights at London Airport (now Heathrow), 1968; Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart on the town in 1955; models aligned in Christian Dior leopard coats, London, 1969; Elizabeth Taylor walking down a London street dressed in head-to-toe whites, 1969. Opposite page:

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L I C H F I E L D ARC H I V E V I A G ET T Y I M AG E S ; H U LTON ARC H I V E / G ET T Y I M AG E S ; H U LTON ARC H I V E / G ET T Y I M AG E S ;

The Barrett family enjoying a picnic in the Arizona desert, 1978.

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S L I M AARON S / H U LTON ARC H I V E / G ET T Y I M AG E S ; AR TH U R E L G OR T / C ON DÉ N A S T / S H U T TE RS TO C K ; M I C H AE L O C H S

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Clockwise from top left: Karen Mulder and Carla Bruni, Vogue Paris, 1995; Princess Margaret smiling at Mick Jagger at a restaurant in Martinique, French West Indies, 1976; President John F. Kennedy and First Lady Jackie Kennedy watching the Americas Cup race off of Newport, RI, 1962; Andy Warhol reading the Daily News in his Factory, 1970; Lou Lou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent, and Betty Catroux, 1969. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Lounging by the pool at Nelda Linsk’s desert house in Palm Springs, CA, 1970 (the house was originally designed by Richard Neutra for Edgar J. Kaufmann). Guests included actress Lita Barton (white sun hat), model Helen Dzo Dzo Kaptur (white crochet), and Nelda Linsk (yellow two-piece); Bill Cunningham with models Nadège du Bospertus (left) and Susan Holmes (right), Vogue, 1992; Jack Nicholson, 1970; John Wayne holding Oscars for Gary Cooper and John Ford backstage at the Academy Awards, 1953; Nancy

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S ATOS H I S AI K U S A / C ON DÉ N A S T ; JAC Q U E S G U S TAV E / AF P V I A G ET T Y I M AG E S ; ROB E R T K N U DS E N / J OH N F. K E N N E DY

Bass, former Texas Governor John Connally, and Anne Bass, 1981.

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@ M ADE L I N E O M AL L EY ; L ARRY F I N K ; J OH N D O M I N I S ; FAI RC H I L D ARC H I V E / P E N S K E M E DI A / S H U T TE RS TO C K ; AL F RE D E I S E N S TAE DT ; ROB E R T WH I TAK E R

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Clockwise from top left: Gloria Vanderbilt posing for a photo in 1968; Nancy Reagan visiting Smith College, 1969; Croquet on the lawn at Exeter College at Oxford; Jane Holzer at a party in New York City, 1965; Jackie Kennedy Onassis leaving The Colony restaurant, 1969; The Queen Mother visiting American tennis champion Helen Wills Moody during a break at Wimbledon, 1938. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Madeline O’Malley and Julia Amory at the New York Historical Society; George Plimpton, Jared Paul Stern, and Cameron Richardson at Elaine’s, 1999; Steve McQueen outside of Hollywood Studios in his 1957 Jaguar XKSS, painted in British racing green (McQueen called it the ‘Green Rat’); Slim Keith, Oscar de la Renta, and Françoise de la Renta at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Gala, 1977; a scene from Kitty Miller’s New Year’s Eve party in New York City, 1956; George

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Harrison standing in Chiswick Park, London, 1965.

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THE YOUNG & THE GUEST LIST B Y B R O O K E K E L LY M U R R AY Alina Timo, Diva Smith, Clara McGregor, and Ava Phillippe.

Clockwise from top left: Aurora James and Olivia Perez; Emilia Silberg; Chloe and Brooke Wise; Lily Mortimer, Sarah Hoover, and Eileen Kelly; Lucky Chance Diner.

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CHANEL DEBUTS LUCKY CHANCE DINER IN BROOKLYN TO CELEBRATE the launch of Chance Eau Fraîche Eau de Parfum, Chanel transformed a local diner in Williamsburg into Lucky Chance Diner, a pop-up that welcomed the public for a unique fragrance experience through September 10th. The brand hosted an exclusive soirée on September 6th to debut the space. Guests, including Ava Phillippe, Amber Mark, and Ama Lou, sampled the new fragrance and enjoyed light bites, toy vending machines, games, and a life-size Chance bottle photo moment. OCTOBER 2023 121

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HERMÈS CELEBRATES SELLE FAUBOURG SADDLE IN THE HAMPTONS OVER LABOR DAY weekend, Hermès hosted a cocktail party at The Deslauriers Farm in Water Mill to celebrate the launch of the new Selle Faubourg Saddle, which was on display for guests. Fittingly, the event took place during the Hampton Classic Horse Show. Attendees enjoyed summer cocktails, hors d’oeuvres, and live music.

Grier Henchy and Brooke Shields

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Charlott Cordes and Charly Sturm

Jessica Springsteen Nicky Rothschild Alex Hamer and Hannah Selleck 122 QUEST

TATA HARPER’S DINNER IN MONTAUK IN LATE AUGUST, Tata Harper Skincare and FoundRae hosted an end-of-summer clambake at Gurney’s to

celebrate FoundRae’s latest collection and new tenet called Bird’s Eye Pause. After a seated dinner, guests were treated to a beach bonfire. Attendees included Tata Harper, Beth Hutchens, June Ambrose, Rebecca Minkoff, and Ulla Johnson.

Carolina Sarria, Cass Bird, Beth Hutchens and Tommy Dorfman

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Pav Volkert, Tata Harper, and Maya Faucher

Ulla Johnson Lilah Ramzi

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SNAPSHOT

John Quidor’s “The Headless Horseman Pursuing Ichabod Crane” (1858); Below, from left: Washington Irving’s home; tombstone; and gravesite.

THE SPOOKY STUFF OF LEGEND “ON MOUNTING A RISING ROUND, which brought the figure of his fellow-traveller in relief against the sky, gigantic in height, and muffled in a cloak, Ichabod was horror-struck on perceiving that he was headless!—but his horror was still more increased on observing that the head, which should have rested on his shoulders, was carried before him on the pommel of his saddle!” weaves The Legend of Sleepy Hollow by Washington Irving (1783-1859). The short story, set in Dutch-settled Tarrytown, N.Y., after the Revolutionary War, follows Ichabod Crane as he 124 QUEST

competes with Brom Bones for the attention of Katrina Van Tassel. After Ichabad encounters the ghost of a Hessian soldier whose head was removed by a cannonball, he disappears. Was it a spook, or a spirited horseman in disguise who frightened Ichabad? Today, the tale continues to haunt the area, and visits to Irving’s home and its surrounding scenes are fun in fall with graveyard tours and hayrides. So, in the advent of Halloween, venture festively up the Hudson River; but be prepared for anything, trick or treat!—Elizabeth Quinn Brown

Fancy Yellow Diamond Rings

50 Shades of Sun

The Greenleaf & Crosby Diamond Collection