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IN SEASON: Partridge Tom Tsappis
This month’s recommendations are from Chef Patron Tom Tsappis of Killiecrankie House in Perthshire, Chef Patron Nina Matsunaga at Black Bull, Sedbergh and Chef Patron Ryan Blackburn, The Old Stamp House, Ambleside, Lake District.
Official Tasting Notes provided by George McIvor, Chairman of The Master Chefs of Great Britain
For me the arrival of grouse birds in the kitchen heralds the start of the end of summer, the arrival of partridge heralds the beginning of autumn.
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Partridges are medium-sized game birds, generally intermediate in size between the larger pheasants, smaller quail.
Partridges live in Europe, Asia, Africa and the Middle East. They live in places such as moors, grassland and farmland. They feed mostly on seeds, and nest on the ground. This means their nests are not very safe from predators such as foxes.
A decline in the grey partridges’ population has left them scarce, only to be found on traditional partridge manors and the opportunity to shoot wild partridges is now only for a very lucky few. The smaller red leg partridge tends to be the main quarry of today. The red leg partridge was introduced in Britain in the 17th century from France to supplement the native grey.
Partridge meat is white and needs careful attention whilst being cooked. Delicious cooked with autumn fruits such as apples and pears.
Waste Not Want Not
Game pie has to be one of the best ways to use up leftover game meat and any combination of game birds will work. Try in a rich red wine risotto or a simple salad, making some delicious lunchtime specials.