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A hiker taking in the scenery at Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, Wyoming. Page 24
Discover all the wonders that the dazzling centers of each Western state have to offer. by peter fish 46 Six Train
Routes in the West for Any Traveler
All aboard, train lovers and skeptics—there’s a route for you. by laura
kiniry
AAA Mountain West Group’s new President and CEO, Marshall L. Doney, talks innovation, savings, and a road map to the future.
smart travel How to find offthe-radar fall foliage in the West. smart auto What to do when you’re underwater on your car loan.
members ’ favorite Disneyland tips and tricks. weekender A weekend in Oracle, Ariz.
sweet stops Travel through the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.
A new era
↘ AAA Mountain West Group’s new President and CEO, Marshall L. Doney, talks innovation, savings, and a road map to the future.
It’s a privilege to introduce myself as the new President and CEO of your Club. I’m excited to be here and lead this incredible organization. AAA has been my home for many years. From my early days as an Assistant Manager at AAA Wisconsin to recently serving as President and CEO of AAA National, I’ve had the honor of helping shape AAA into the innovative, go-to organization it is today.
For more than 120 years, we have never lost sight of delivering exceptional value without breaking the bank. Our roadside service? It’s America’s most recommended. Car won’t start because of a dead battery? We’re there with mobile battery service. EV need a boost? You can count on us for a charge. As a matter of fact, we’re leading the industry in EV roadside assistance.
That’s just the beginning. Our Discounts & Rewards program is a great value, helping Members save an average of $200 each year!
We’re proud of our innovative partnerships, too. Together with Apple, we offer roadside assistance via satellite, which is a game-changer for iPhone users stranded in remote areas. We’ve also partnered with T-Mobile, the country’s fastest, largest, and fastest growing 5G network, to keep you connected on the go.
Rest assured, we’re not stopping there. To provide even greater value, we are currently enhancing our Travel and Financial Services offerings. If you are a fellow Via magazine enthusiast, get ready for a second print issue of the magazine in 2025. Speaking of Via, you’ll find plenty of fall travel inspiration in this issue.
There’s never been a better time to be a AAA Member. Stay tuned, there are even more exciting things to come!
MARSHALL L. DONEY, PRESIDENT AND CEO
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Smart Life
How to find off-the-radar fall foliage in the West
↘
Forgo the crowds and find your own quiet pocket of autumnal magic.
Move over, Maine! It’s fall in the West: The sunlight’s sifting softly through the forest, and scores of valleys and hillsides are bursting with color as aspens, maples, and oaks shed their summer green for a more flamboyant fashion. And while popular places such as Glacier, Grand Teton, and Yellowstone National Parks are always winners when it comes to frolicking amid autumn’s awesomeness, there are plenty of colorful pockets to explore that will have a fraction of the crowds.
But how do you find them? Leaf-peepers have it easier than ever these days thanks to a slew of apps, websites, and real-time reports by fellow travelers that can help pinpoint when and where to go. As always, timing is key—temperatures, sunlight, and the amount of water trees can access all influence when the leaves turn and how vibrant they can be. (Generally speaking, drier, higher, and northern areas tend to peak earlier in the season.) Rainy or overcast days will produce a more indirect, shadowfree light that really makes the colors zing. “It’s one of the best displays nature puts on,” says Dr. Howard Neufeld, a plant ecophysiologist in the Department of Biology at North Carolina’s Appalachian State University, who estimates millions of travelers looking for colorful leaves pump at least $30 billion into local economies. “It’s a great time to get outside, it’s
Autumn color reflects in Oxbow Bend in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.
SMART LIFE
an inexpensive thing to do, and it really makes you appreciate what’s around you.”
Here are some tips on where to go to make the most of this magical season.
Leaf-peeping 2.0
Your first step should be researching when to go, as leaves can start to change anytime from mid-August in Alaska to as late as Christmas in parts of Arizona. Numerous websites offer forecasts and updates on where the leaves are changing, when they start, and how long the show might last. American Forests’ site offers a countywide breakdown of the nation with a slider that lets you pick dates to show the color
progression in any given area. You can even upload your own reports to help others time their trips. The Old Farmer’s Almanac is another great resource that predicts places such as northern Montana, the Bay Area, and Salt Lake County, Utah, may peak as early as September 25. By November 13, pretty much everything in the West will likely be past its prime.
Remember, no forecast will ever be 100 percent accurate, especially as the effects of climate change upend reliance on historical data. The U.S. Drought Map reveals that much of the West is indeed quite dry, a factor that can bring peak color change earlier in the season and lasting less time—or in times of moderate drought, do the opposite: delay the colors.
As for figuring out where to go, the National Parks Service maintains a list of deciduous forests across its properties as well as a list of social media channels you can go to for updates. But to really find that secret stand of maples, oaks, or aspens, here’s a great hack: download the OnX Hunt app, which offers a seven-day free trial. The GPS mapping app, meant for hunters, includes a robust layer that pinpoints deciduous forests in any state, along with private land boundaries to keep you from trespassing. You can even filter the results by type of tree. Looking for a secret cache of aspen and birch trees near Tahoe City? OnX reveals there’s a stand in the southeast corner of Burton Creek State Park and another off the Antone Meadow Loop Trail. Make an adventure of it and go find them.
Off-the-radar spots for leaf-peeping
Just want to see some pretty colors? We can help. Late summer and early fall make a fantastic time to head to Alaska, when the summer cruise traffic has dwindled and snow dusts the tops of the mighty peaks. To catch the country’s first fall foliage show, plan a trip to Fairbanks, where the colors begin to change around mid-August. Chena River State Recreation Area, about a 30-minute drive east is a great bet, as is booking a stay at the nearby Chena Hot Springs Resort. To go really off-the-radar, head north to the Brooks Range and Coldfoot, a community above
Sawtooth Scenic Byway in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area, Idaho.
the Arctic Circle reachable by road, to see the tundra turn purple, red, and orange.
Arizona’s White Mountain Scenic Road winds through the Fort Apache Indian Reservation for about 123 miles, mostly along Highway 260. Start high among the maples in Pinetop-Lakeside and continue on to forests of red and gold. Want to get out of the car? Take a scenic chairlift ride at Sunrise Ski Park for more airy views.
The Ruby Mountains in northeast Nevada are a sneaker hit with 11,000-foot peaks and stunning canyons. Head to Lamoille Canyon,
about a 25-minute drive from Elko, in midOctober to catch the cottonwoods and aspens lighting up.
Everyone knows (or has probably seen pictures of) golden aspens lining the incredibly scenic Oxbow Bend along the Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway near Grand Teton National Park. For more solitude, head to the Brush Creek Visitor Center along the Snowy Range Scenic Byway to wander among the aspens, or drive 49 miles west off Highway 70 near Encampment to find Aspen Alley, a fairy-tale sight of 50-foothigh aspens arcing over the road. tim neville
Fall colors and glassy waters at Chena River State Park, Alaska.
What to do when you’re underwater on your car loan
↘ Negative car equity is reaching record highs due to a shifting car market.
Thanks to supply-chain improvements, prices for cars— new ones and especially used ones—are finally coming down. That’s great if you’re car shopping, but problematic if you bought a vehicle during the peak of the market and can no longer afford the payments.
You could have “negative equity,” meaning you owe more than your car is worth. Because cars depreciate rapidly in the first couple years, this was becoming a more common issue before Covid-19, as car prices rose and loan
terms stretched longer. But it got worse during the pandemic, when the average buyer was paying as much as $728 above the sticker price versus $2,600 below sticker in 2019, according to Edmunds.com.
This situation, also known as being “upside-down” or “underwater,” makes it harder to escape an unaffordable loan, because if you sell your car, you have to come up with the extra cash to pay off the loan. In May 2024, about onefourth of people trading in cars had negative equity and were underwater by $6,064 on average—which Edmunds. com notes as an all-time high.
In the first quarter of 2024, almost 8 percent of auto loans transitioned into delinquency, the highest rate since 2010, according to New York Federal Reserve Bank data.
The trouble started during the pandemic, when a chip shortage and supply-chain disruptions choked off shipments of new cars, which sent prices skyrocketing on both new and used cars. But ultra-low interest rates and pandemic aid from the government kept people buying cars. Someone who had trouble making payments could often refinance the loan at a lower rate or sell the car for a great price, sometimes more than they paid for it. A growing
Depending on your equity and credit score, you might be able to downsize.
SMART LIFE
number of online used-car retailers were making juicy offers for cars, sight unseen.
The average amount paid for a new car peaked in December 2022 at about $49,900, excluding incentives such as equipment upgrades, cash back, or low financing rates. At that point, such incentives accounted for just 2.7 percent of the purchase price, says Mark Schirmer, director of industry insights with Cox Automotive.
As inventories improved and interest rates soared, the market went into reverse. By May 2024, the typical buyer was paying $48,378 and getting incentives worth 6.7 percent of the purchase price, closer to the historical average of 9 to 10 percent, according to Schirmer.
Average used-car prices followed a similar trajectory, with wholesale prices falling 8.9 percent in June 2024 versus a year earlier, according to Cox Automotive. Some online used-car dealers, stuck with cars worth less than they had paid for them, went bankrupt (Shift Technologies in October 2023) or shut down (Vroom in January 2024).
“We are seeing unprecedented downward pressure on pricing,” Schirmer says.
If you are having trouble paying for a car bought during the pandemic, the sooner you act, the more options you may have. Missing a payment will ding your credit score and could lead to your car getting repossessed—a major black mark that stays on your credit report for seven years. Here are some options.
Refinance
This involves getting a new loan with better terms from another lender and paying off the old one. With interest rates far above pandemic-era levels, you’re unlikely to find a lower rate, but if your credit isn’t wrecked, you might get a longerterm loan. This could lower your monthly payments, but you’ll pay more interest over the life of the loan.
Call your current lender
Explain your situation and ask if your lender will let you pause or make partial payments for a while or extend your term. Your lender might not be eager to repossess your car and willing to deal, Schirmer says. Any missed payments will have to be repaid, and could involve added fees or interest.
Get any agreement in writing and ask how it will impact your credit report. “If you’re told it won’t have an impact but it then appears on your
credit reports, a written agreement provides evidence you can use to dispute the error with the lender or the credit reporting companies,” according to the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau.
Downsize
Depending on your equity (or lack thereof) and credit score, you might be able to sell or trade in your car and buy a smaller or older one. “I would prefer a super cheap new car (such as the sub-$20,000 Nissan Versa) than something older,” says Ronald Montoya, senior consumer advice editor with Edmunds.com.
Loan rates for new cars are much lower than those on used ones, but it’s harder to find inexpensive new cars because many automakers have discontinued their bargain-price models. And no-frills base models can be difficult to find, Montoya adds.
Some auto dealers will trade in your car and roll your negative equity into a new loan. But this is “just digging a deeper hole, paying off debt with more debt. I wouldn’t do this unless you have a plan for how you will get out of it as soon as you can,” says Ted Rossman, senior industry analyst at Bankrate.com
Tough it out
If you can handle it, the best solution is to “stick with your current loan until it’s paid off. Maybe next year, interest rates will drop by a couple of points and you can refinance,” Montoya says. And at some point, you will have positive equity, and more options. kathleen pender
Selling your car when you’re underwater on your car loan can leave you in debt.
On the Road
Disneyland tips and tricks
↘ The happiest place on earth gets even better using insights from our readers.
“If you are traveling with young children, it’s good to give them a break in the middle of the day for lunch and a nap at your hotel, and then return refreshed to the park after dark for some evening fun. To make your entire day more enjoyable, store some jackets or lunch items for later in the Main Street lockers. Plan your day and the order you’d like to visit each land, letting each person in your group choose a first choice ride. And have an agreed-upon meeting place in each land when you get there, just in case a member of your group wanders off. Earplugs may help. Stop for frequent drinks.” harriet gadisman
“The parks both have reasonably priced lockers that you can access throughout the day, and you can store all your extras: We always pack peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and snacks in a backpack for the ever-hungry mob of kids, bring a water thermos for the filling stations in the park, and take a change of clothes if we plan on water rides.
Restaurants are often booked months ahead, so if you plan on eating in the park, get your tickets and make your park reservations as soon as you know your visit dates. Once you do, make your reservations for your choice restaurant. (We have already booked our visit and restaurants for our visit three months from now.)
And it’s important
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Plan your Disneyland trip with AAA, an Authorized Disney Vacation Planner. Plan your vacation now
MEMBERS’ FAVORITE
A park visitor, prepared with a hand-held fan to combat the heat, takes a photo of Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland.
ON THE ROAD
to note that if you are visiting with someone who has a disabled pass, they must be approved prior to your visit with an application signed by their doctor.” tina valaris
“If you’re traveling with little ones, go in the morning, as early as possible. Then head back to the hotel in the early afternoon to take a nap or relax by the pool. Go back into the park around sunset and stay as long as the kiddos will allow. This is a great plan even if you don’t have kids! And plan to ride the popular rides during the parades or the Fantasmic show.” debra valdez
“Stay at a hotel/motel/inn within walking distance, and talk to the hotel employees and other park visi-
tors to get advice, especially if it’s your first time. If you haven’t made reservations ahead of time, you might score one if you’re super nice and friendly to restaurant staff: They might just squeeze you in. It’s also easier to get last-minute tables if you are visiting the park solo or as a couple.
If you want to avoid ride lines, be willing to ride solo rather than with other members of your group. And skipping some of the daily shows that draw large crowds can be a good time to enjoy shorter wait times to ride popular attractions.
Disneyland is awesome. Notice and appreciate all the little details of the park. I’d live there if they let me.” christopher wenmoth
“Avoid visiting Disneyland and California Adventure during the summer and holidays to avoid all the crowds, and when you do visit, book restaurants as early as possible. Also invest in Genie+: It’s worth the money! If you can, stay at a hotel and spend at least two days at the parks.” richard soule
“Purchase a postcard of your child’s favorite Disney character while you are at the park. Jot a quick note from the character to your child, then mail it to your home from the park. Your child will never forget this!” carole meyers
“When traveling with young kids, book a hotel that’s within walking distance. We love the Marriott or Hyatt House. Get up early on your full day and head to Disneyland. Bounce around the park until about noon and then head back for naps. Go back around 3 p.m. after naps and visit California Adventure. While you can’t do everything, you can see a lot of both parks and give your kids a chance to rest. Use the Disneyland app, and don’t forget to eat at a Dole Whip midday when it’s hot. But most importantly, keep your expectations loose, as you never know when it’s going to be crazy busy, hot, or your favorite ride might be under construction. Regardless, you will have a magical day!” bobby talley
What is your favorite library in the West, and why? Email us at otr@viamagazine.com. You may be quoted in a future issue. ?
NEXT QUESTION
Jot a note from your child’s favorite Disney character on a postcard and mail it to your home from the park.
ON THE ROAD
Oracle, Arizona
↘ Just outside Tucson, this singular enclave feels worlds away with its unique blend of art, science, and scenery.
When people reach for a word to describe Oracle, they often settle on “quirky,” and it’s easy to see why. The town’s mystical-sounding moniker might suggest it’s a New Age haven. Actually, the name was adopted from the nearby Oracle mine; the founding miner christened it after his uncle’s ship, which likely took its title from a Greek shrine in Turkey.
Secreted on the northern foothills of the oft-forgotten Santa Catalina Mountains, this high desert hideaway has always attracted a motley crew of mold breakers. Mining prospectors, Mexican cattle ranchers, eco-anarchist writer Edward Abbey, and the Space Age utopians who built Biosphere 2 have all been drawn to its unique ecosystem and
dreamy isolation.
Nowadays, Oracle’s 3,100-odd residents are a mix of outdoor enthusiasts, artists, cowboys and cowgirls, metaphysical folks, and more. United by a love of the land, they’ve cultivated an eclectic yet tight-knit community. Even if you’re blowing through town like tumbleweed, it’s fun to catch the communal spirit and visit the area’s visionary ventures, from an artsy dude ranch to a food-centric ziplining course or a laboratory where researchers dream of inhabiting Mars.
Things to do
Though Oracle lies just 30 miles north of Tucson, it feels like a cool getaway at
Kannally Ranch House in Oracle State Park.
4,500 feet. Here, saguaros give way to oaks and swaying grasslands surrounded by “sky islands”—isolated mountains with distinct ecosystems marooned in a “sea” of desert.
● Meet the region’s plant and animal residents at Oracle State Park, a 4,000-acre wildlife refuge where white-tailed deer prance, bobcats prowl, and colorful birds and butterflies migrate. Trace more than a billion years of magmatic and marine action on a guided or self-guided tour of the Geology Trail. Get a hawk’s-eye view of the terrain on the 1.6-mile Granite Overlook Loop, or hike a six-mile slice of the epic 800-mile Arizona National Scenic Trail. Poke around Kannally Ranch House to glimpse what life was like for the family of ranchers and artists who called this expanse home in the early 1900s. At night, this designated International Dark Sky Park hosts occasional stargazing parties with amateur astronomers—or, if you reserve ahead, you can visit on your own and have the galactic vistas to yourself.
● At Triangle L Ranch, mixed media artist Sharon Holnback transformed a 19th-century cattle ranch that Buffalo Bill Cody once visited into a showcase for sculptures, metalwork, assemblage pieces, and more. Peruse the work of local artists in the century-old adobe barn, then stroll the sculpture park to see whimsical works such as Goddess Rabbit and an emerald-hued glass castle nestled among giant oak and mesquite trees. During GLOW!, October 18–19, sculptures along the Magic Path nature trail are illuminated with enchanting lights at night.
● The folks at Arizona Zipline Adventures turned a cattle ranch into something completely different—the chance to whoosh over surprisingly
green desert at stampede speed on five cables up to 1,500 feet long. After your adrenaline-pumping exploit, reward your bravery with a build-yourown burger and sky island views at the facility’s Peppersauce Kitchen. If you’re lucky, your visit will coincide with their occasional grill-your-ownsteak evenings, when you can fire up a slab of meat (or portobello mushroom) and dance to live music with the locals.
● November 2–3, don’t miss the Oracle Artist Studio Fall Tour, when you can chat with jewelry makers, potters, glassworkers, and other creatives inside their homes.
● Rising out of the desert like a futuristic glass Mayan pyramid, Biosphere 2
has evolved significantly since its sensationalized origins. In 1991, eight “Biospherians” sealed themselves in this enormous terrarium for two years to experiment with how humans might produce their own food and atmosphere on a lunar or Martian colony. Now, visitors can explore the miniature rain forest, ocean, and other ecosystems where international scientists conduct research on climate change, sustainability solutions, and off-planet living. You can also peek inside the authentically decorated former living quarters of a Biospherian and the “lungs” that regulate the structure’s air pressure.
Where to shop
With its handful of offbeat stores,
Biosphere 2 at sunset. above: Telescopes from the Tucson Amateur Astronomy Association are set up at Kannally Ranch House during a star party at Oracle State Park.
ON THE ROAD
Parradise Ranch has become a microcosm of Oracle’s idiosyncrasies. The mini shopping center launched in 1985 with Sue and Jerry Parra’s Trading Post, chock-full of Western collectibles, metal art, antique farm implements, and vintage housewares. Two years ago, Country Sweet Boutique— a turquoise retro travel trailer—rolled onto the property, peddling handdesigned bling, leather goods, and nostalgic candy. Ravens’ Rooste Metaphysical Store also nested onsite, offers books, crystals, essential oils, wooden flutes, and reiki sessions.
Where to eat and drink
● Oracle’s mild desert climate and abundant sunshine foster ideal conditions for the flora at Life Under the Oaks Lavender Farm. For an uncon-
ventional breakfast or lunch, preorder a thematic picnic basket—think quiche with lavender potatoes or lavender chicken salad—and dine under an oak canopy. Then meet the farm animals, meander paths adorned with fairy-tale-esque art, and shop for aromatherapeutic products.
● In town, the Oracle Patio Cafe and Market is a local favorite, thanks to homemade pies, corned beef hash that’s brined for 10 days, and the “Paw-tio” menu for furry foodies. You can get a taste of Oracle’s small-town camaraderie (along with an iced Mexican mocha) at Way of Bean Coffee Club, a members-only space that supports local roasters, artists, and gardeners. Don’t worry: You can purchase a one-day membership for 50 cents.
Where to stay
● Since the 1920s, Triangle L Ranch has rented private cottages, each featuring different amenities such as a claw-foot tub, a gallery of local art, and sleeping porch to watch the stars as you drift to sleep. Guests enjoy complimentary entry to the sculpture park.
● Unlike the area’s converted cattle ranches, El Rancho Robles was designed from its debut in the early 1900s as a place where people could kick up their boots or Oxford heels and relax. Today, this boutique hotel maintains that admirable mission through its soothing paths under stately oaks, stonework patios overlooking lush desert landscaping, and terra-cotta and cornflower-colored architecture. keridwen cornelius
Summer beet salad with homemade lavender olive oil dressing at Way of the Bean Coffee Club. left: Life Under the Oaks Lavender Farm.
Travel through the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area
↘ Follow scenic byways in southwestern Wyoming and northwestern Utah for colorful canyons, volcanic rock formations, and wandering wildlife.
Driving along Interstate 80 through the high-desert country of southwestern Wyoming delivers sweeping views of big skies with buttes and hoodoos dotting the horizon. This region combines a long mining legacy and historic downtowns, with most of the action in the cities of Green River and Rock Springs.
For spectacular scenery and a deep dive into history, consider a detour through the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, circling the 91-mile-long Flaming Gorge reservoir that straddles Wyoming and Utah. Named for its massive red and golden sandstone gorge— which seems to glow in the right
light—the 160-mile loop offers wildlife spotting and peaceful hikes amid a billion years of geologic traces.
Rock Springs, Wyoming
Begin your trip in Rock Springs, which boomed when coal and mineral miners found resources underground. Some of the mines are still under parts of the town today. Learn more at the stately Rock Springs Historical Museum, which once served as the city hall, jail, and fire station. Fuel up and stock up on supplies, then head west on Highway 191 to the Flaming Gorge–Green River Basin Scenic
Cart Creek Bridge at Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.
SWEET STOPS
Byway, which is the first part of the loop around the recreation area.
Plan to spend at least five hours doing the full loop, with additional time for hikes and stopping at numerous overlooks. Camping and plenty of water recreation—including boating, waterskiing, swimming, and fishing for trophy trout—encourage a longer stay.
Want to take a break from driving? Reserve a ticket on the daylong guided bus tour from Rock Springs’ cozy visitor center. On the tours, which run from June through September, you’ll be treated to stories about the outlaw gangs that once roamed these hills.
As you enter the recreation area heading southward on Highway 191, you’ll see a vast expanse of rocky cliffs and outcroppings as you wind through the hills, likely with a few pronghorn grazing here and there. Firehole Canyon—about 29 miles away in the Ashley National Forest—makes for a great rest stop; check out the reservoir and chimney rocks, distinct pillars atop cliffs formed by ancient volcanic action.
Dutch John, Utah
Open April 15 to October 15, the Flaming Gorge Dam and Visitor Center is situated three miles southwest of Dutch John, a small town just across the Utah border, created to house workers building the dam. The quiet reservoir is often populated with anglers; visitors can also climb stairs on the dam itself to watch the roaring water pour into the wild river some 500 feet below when the jet valves are open.
The Restaurant at Flaming Gorge Resort, four miles south of the dam, offers daily meals from breakfast omelets to open-faced pot roast sandwiches for dinner. For a hike or cycle on a dirt road with lake and canyon views, take the three-mile round-trip Bear Canyon–Bootleg trail near Flaming Gorge Resort.
Also near Dutch John, on the south end of the reservoir, you’ll find the Red Canyon Visitor Center, which overlooks a stunning ancient canyon formed by water a billion years ago and now layered with red rock. Take one of the short trails that crisscross its grounds to reach overlooks with jaw-dropping views down into the depths of time. The visitor center—at 1,631 feet in elevation— boasts a wall of windows on one end that make for perfect accessible viewing of the Green River below.
Sheep Creek, Utah
Though not a designated town, Sheep Creek Geological Loop, a detour off UT-44 near the Wyoming border, is so beautiful and otherworldly that it’s a highlight for many visitors. The loop runs roughly 13 miles, winding through dramatic rock formations of sandstone, shale, and limestone towering overhead. You’ll see the evidence of
Red Canyon Visitor Center in Ashley National Forest near Dutch John, Utah.
The Sheep Creek Geological loop.
ON THE ROAD
geologic upheavals and oceanic activity that formed this area through many millions of years, including Utah’s Uinta Mountains. You’ll want to spend an hour or two here, stopping at overlooks and notable formations, and scanning for bighorn sheep in the hills.
At the end of the loop, the threequarter-mile Sheep Creek Nature Trail provides a lushly forested stroll on a boardwalk along the creek, especially fascinating when the Kokanee salmon are running in fall.
Manila, Utah
As you make your way north, you’ll be treated to views of the reservoir on the entire trip to rejoin I-80 in Green River. Just north of Sheep Creek, take advantage of the facilities in Manila, the other small town on the route. Enjoy classic burgers and pizza at
Browning’s Restaurant and Motel. For snacks or fishing rentals, stop by Lucerne Valley Marina, east of town, or Buckboard Marina, situated 25 miles from Green River.
Green River, Wyoming
Like its neighboring city, Rock Creek, historic Green River is well worth a leisurely stop along the Flaming Gorge Route. Relax at a peaceful riverside park that marks an important expedition of explorer John Wesley Powell, or hit up the excellent Sweetwater County Historical Museum to learn more about Old West folklore and the surprisingly fascinating industry of soda ash mining. Wet your whistle at the Brewery, a friendly dive bar located in a castlelike brick building that once housed Wyoming’s first brewery.
jennifer burns bright
Green River in the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.
The Brewery, now a bar, once house Wyoming’s first brewery.
HERE WE DELIGHT
Aerial view of downtown Salt Lake City and the capitol building at sunset.
CAPITAL CITIES The West’s best
Discover all the wonders that the dazzling centers of each Western state have to offer.
by peter fish
Just in time for this election year, here’s a happy travel secret: The West’s state capitals aren’t just about politics. They’re also some of the most vibrant, surprising, and enjoyable travel destinations anywhere. Rich history, inspiring art, outdoor fun, delicious food and drink—these seven Western capitals dazzle. Cast your ballot for any or all of them. You can’t lose.
Juneau
ALASKA
This one wins the vote for state capital with the most awe-inspiring setting. Approach Juneau by sea or air—those are your two choices—and you’ll be knocked out by the city stretching along Gastineau Channel with 3,576-foot Mount Juneau rising behind it.
Gold built Juneau—around $150 million of it (equivalent to about $7 billion today) was mined from Mount Juneau and surrounding peaks between 1880 and 1940. Even now, the town maintains a boomtown frontier spirit.
Start your visit downtown, with its brightly painted early-1900s buildings. The 1913 Alaskan Hotel’s gaudy bar is a fine place to grab a beer and, on certain nights, attempt karaoke. The Alaska State Museum, with its striking contemporary architecture, offers exhibits on the state and its history. Juneau is especially rich in Native Alaskan culture, home to the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian peoples. An essential stop is the Sealaska Heritage Institute’s Walter Soboleff Building, where exhibits showcase Native Alaskan life and art. (The museum store is a good place to shop for Indigenous art, too.) And you’ll want to stroll Kootéeyaa Deiyí, Juneau’s new waterfront totem pole trail.
Outdoor opportunities are world-class.
Mendenhall Glacier is a 13-mile river of ice you can gaze at from the visitor center, a 20-minute drive from downtown; for a close-up view, take the twomile Nugget Falls Trail. For marine life fans, some 600 humpback whales swim southeast Alaska waters between April and October; you can spy some on whale-watching day trips.
Juneau is a good food town, especially strong in seafood. Take the tram up Mount Roberts to Timberline Bar & Grill for crab nachos and killer views. Back downtown, local favorite Hangar on the Wharf serves oysters and citrus salmon on the waterfront. Deckhand Dave’s taco truck pleases with shrimp tacos and halibut chowder, and acclaimed In Bocca al Lupo serves some of the best pizza in the nation.
Juneau is one of two U.S. capitals not connected by any road to the outside world. (Honolulu is the other.) You get there by sea (cruise ship or Alaska Marine Highway ferry) or air (commercial flights).
CAPITAL FACT
clockwise from top: Sealaska Heritage Institute in downtown Juneau; Nugget Falls and Mendenhall Glacier in Mendenhall Glacier National Recreation Area; Shrimp Tacos at Deckhand Dave’s.
from top
clockwise
left: Ceiling of the Cathedral of St. Helena; Bullwhacker statue in historic Last Chance Gulch in downtown Helena; Gates of the Mountains boat tour on the Missouri River; taking in the views from the South Hills area.
CAPITAL
FACT
Helena started life as “Crabtown,” a name that was changed to Saint Helena then shortened to Helena. Good call.
Helena MONTANA
The word for Helena is charming. Tucked up against the Rocky Mountains foothills, Montana’s state capital has an easygoing vibe that is almost irresistible.
Start your Helena visit by boarding the Last Chance Tour Train, which introduces the city’s main attractions, including downtown’s Last Chance Gulch, where gold was discovered in 1864—so much gold that by the late 1800s Helena was said to have more millionaires per capita than any city in the nation. Historic buildings reflect Helena’s opulent era, including the 1902 Montana State Capitol, the twin-spired Cathedral of Saint Helena, and the stately homes of the city’s Mansion District.
After your train tour, explore on your own. Last Chance Gulch is now lined with shops, restaurants, and galleries. Local favorites include the Montana Book & Toy Co. and the Parrot Confectionery, which has been offering hand-dipped chocolates and lavish sundaes for over a century. For more substantial fare, you have downtown dining options such as Lucca’s (Italian), Benny’s Bistro (locally sourced steaks, salmon, salads), and the Windbag Saloon & Grill (cocktails, burgers, sandwiches).
Helena has a vibrant art scene. Don’t miss the Holter Museum of Art and the Archie Bray Foundation, a former brickyard transformed into a renowned center of ceramic arts—pottery, sculptures, more.
As for outdoor access, it’s excellent—remember, this is Big Sky Country. Hikers can take the 1906 Trail to the top of Mount Helena for 360-degree views; mountain bikers can tackle the South Hills trail system. For inspiring scenery with less effort, take a boat cruise through the Gates of the Mountains, a gorgeous limestone-walled stretch of the Missouri River.
Sacramento
CALIFORNIA
The capital city can get overshadowed by California’s buzzier towns—show-biz Los Angeles and tech center San Francisco. But lovers of history, food, and outdoor fun will find much to savor in Sacramento.
Start with the history. The restored buildings of Sutter’s Fort State Historic Park introduce you to Swiss immigrant John Sutter, who in 1848 helped launch the California Gold Rush. Not far away, the magnificently domed California State Capitol is open for weekday tours; adjacent 40-acre Capitol Park is renowned for its camellias and roses. Along the Sacramento River, Old Sacramento Waterfront Historic District preserves dozens of Gold Rush–era buildings, many turned into shops and restaurants. Here, too, is the captivating California State Railroad Museum, which celebrates Sactown’s railroad history with big trains (giant 19th-century steam locomotives), little trains (model railroads), and trains you ride (beautifully restored excursion trains).
Sacramento sits in the middle of one of the world’s richest agricultural regions, and its best restaurants showcase the seasonal and locally grown. September’s annual Farm-to-Fork Festival draws tens of thousands of visitors. Any time of year you can eat superbly at spots such as Magpie Cafe (new American), Fixins (soul food), and Masullo (pizza). Wine lovers are in luck, too—some of California’s most appealing wine regions (the town of Lodi, and Amador, Placer, and El Dorado counties) are easy day trips.
The city also scores high on outdoor fun. It’s famously bike-friendly: Pedaling the scenic American River Parkway is a classic SacTown experience; bike rentals are easily available. And from April to October you can raft the American River. Trips range from gentle, novice-friendly floats to daredevil white-water outings—something for everybody, just like Sacramento.
CAPITAL FACT
Fifth time’s the charm. Sacramento was named California’s capital in 1854, after Monterey, San Jose, Vallejo, and Benicia didn’t work out.
clockwise from top: Tower Bridge over the Sacramento river; taste local foods at Magpie Cafe; Sutter’s Fort State Historic Park; Farm to Fork street festival.
clockwise from top left:
The luxe interior of the Arizona Biltmore resort; Ottosen Entry Garden at Desert Botancial Garden; take in the views of Camelback Mountain from Royal Palms Resort and Spa; elote and guacamole and chips at Bacanora 8.
Phoenix
ARIZONA
You love the sun? Head to Phoenix, with 300 sunny days a year, blue-sky weather that has lured millions here. Arizona’s state capital is now the nation’s fifth-largest city—the sophisticated, diverse urban center of the U.S. Southwest.
Start your visit at the copper-domed Arizona State Capitol, built in 1901 and now a museum. From here, explore Phoenix’s increasingly vibrant downtown, including the Roosevelt Row Arts District, lined with galleries and restaurants. Then head a mile or so north to a must-see: the Heard Museum with its extraordinary collection of Hopi, Navajo, and other Native American art.
Phoenix’s next-door neighbor, Scottsdale, glitters with state-of-the-art shopping. Hit the Fifth Avenue Shopping District for the local and one-ofa-kind, or go to Scottsdale Fashion Square for brand-name luxury. Scottsdale’s walkable Old Town offers a posse of galleries and some of greater Phoenix’s liveliest bars.
Phoenix and Scottsdale are home to some of the nation’s most extravagant resorts, including classics such as the Arizona Biltmore and the Royal Palms. Even if you don’t pony up for a suite, it’s fun to take a spa treatment or grab a drink and soak up the fivestar ambiance. Food-wise, greater Phoenix gives you much to choose from: Bacanora for nationally acclaimed Mexican; beloved Pizzeria Bianco for, well, pizza; Fry Bread House for Native American cuisine; and Bourbon & Bones for steak.
Finally, when it’s time to play outdoors, you have choices. Stroll the lovely Desert Botanical Garden and be soothed by desert plantings from Arizona and around the world. A more strenuous option is the classic two-mile hike up and down Camelback Mountain.
CAPITAL FACT
Baseball fans take note: Cactus League Spring Training hosts nearly a dozen major league teams here from late February through March.
Carson City
NEVADA
To borrow a boxing term, Carson City punches above its weight. It has only 60,000 people, but its rough-hewn history and lovely setting in the Washoe Valley, with the Sierra Nevada foothills rising behind it, make it a stellar travel destination.
Get acquainted with the town along the Kit Carson Trail, a 2.5-mile route you follow on your smartphone at visitcarsoncity.com. Highlights include the Nevada State Capitol, the Nevada State Museum, and the Brewery Arts Center. The trail also shows off Carson City’s historic mansions built during the region’s 19th-century mining boom. Not on the trail but well worth a visit is the Nevada State Railroad Museum.
You can eat well before or after your touring. The Great Basin Brewing Company offers craft beers and wood-fired pizza, and the Villa Basque Café celebrates Nevada Basque cuisine with hearty beef and lamb stews. For excellent Thai food, head to the Basil.
From Carson City, you can take two of the best day trips anywhere in the West. Fifteen miles south, quaint little Genoa is Nevada’s oldest town, founded in 1851—and it has Nevada’s oldest bar, the Genoa Bar, founded two years later. September’s annual Genoa Candy Dance is a century-old party featuring music, art, and vast quantities of homemade fudge and dipped chocolates for sale.
Fifteen miles northeast you come to Virginia City, the West’s liveliest old mining town. Starting in the 1860s, Comstock Lode silver made Virginia City rich. Landmarks from that era—Piper’s Opera House, the Fourth Ward School, and Mackay Mansion—have been restored for enjoyment today. The Chollar and Ponderosa mine tours let you experience what 19th-century mining was like; if you want to travel 19th-century style, take the historic Virginia and Truckee Railroad from Carson City to Virginia City and back again.
CAPITAL FACT
Built in 1870, the Nevada State Capitol is the secondoldest capitol building west of the Mississippi. (The first is in Little Rock, Arkansas.)
clockwise from top left: Visit the Governor’s Mansion, a stop on the Kit Carson Trail; Pesto Pie at Great Basin Brewing Company; Nevada State Railroad Museum; dinosaur bones at Nevada State Museum.
from
The Salt Lake Temple is currently covered in scaffolding. Upon completion of the restoration (which is scheduled for 2026), it will be briefly open to the public.
clockwise
top right: Temple Square; dinosaurs at Natural History Museum of Utah; Arboretum’s Water Conservation Garden at Red Butte Garden; chicken kebab house salad at Mazza Cafe.
Salt Lake City
UTAH
Founded in 1847, when Brigham Young led his party of Latter-day Saints across the Wasatch Mountains, Salt Lake City is both Utah’s state capital and headquarters for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, with 17 million members worldwide. The mix makes a city that is hospitable and surprisingly cosmopolitan. Add its stunning setting (those Wasatch Mountains) and outdoor recreation opportunities (those mountains, again) and you have an unbeatable vacation destination.
Start your visit at Temple Square, where you can gaze up at the Church’s granite, six-spired Salt Lake Temple, currently under restoration. The nearby Tabernacle is famous for its 12,000-pipe organ and 360-voice choir. (You can hear both, live, in frequent performances.) Then head up the hill to the imposing Utah State Capitol Building, open for selfguided tours.
Other attractions cluster near the University of Utah campus. Mesozoic Utah was a dinosaur playground: At the Natural History Museum of Utah, you can say hi to an allosaurus, a stegosaurus, and many more giant friends. Nearby, enjoy gorgeous roses (among other gardens) at the Red Butte Garden and Arboretum, plus five miles of hiking paths and a summer concert series.
With 10 ski resorts within an hour’s drive, Salt Lake is a deservedly popular winter destination. It hosted the 2002 Winter Olympics and is expected to host again in 2034. But summer is no slouch. The Wasatch Mountains offer terrific hiking and mountain biking, plus brilliant summer wildflower displays; Albion Basin is especially famous for its blooms.
Salt Lake dining ranges from Western rustic (Log Haven for steaks) to brewpubs (Red Rock Brewing is a standby), plus Mexican (Red Iguana), Middle Eastern (Mazza), and Japanese (Kyoto Japanese Restaurant). They’re delicious reminders that this city welcomes the world.
Cheyenne
WYOMING
If you’ve ever had cowboy or cowgirl dreams, Cheyenne has you covered. After all, it’s the capital of the “Cowboy State.” Every Wyoming license plate shows a cowpoke riding a bucking bronc. If you’re seeking a vacation destination with Wild West swagger, Cheyenne is your jackpot.
The city’s prime claim to undying cowboy fame is Cheyenne Frontier Days; going strong since 1897, it’s the largest outdoor rodeo in the nation. For two weeks every July, Frontier Days draws tens of thousands to whoop and holler at steer roping, saddle bronc riding, and, in the evenings, big-name entertainment.
Cheyenne is also a railroad town, starting life in 1867 with the construction of the transcontinental railroad. The 90-minute Cheyenne Street Railway Trolley tours will take you to town highlights, including the Wyoming State Capitol and the historic Governors’ Mansion, both open to visitors. Built in 1886, the majestic Union Pacific Railroad Depot now houses the Cheyenne Depot Museum, which celebrates all things train. Also downtown, the Wyoming State Museum offers exhibits on Wyoming art, history, and Native American life.
Wyoming cuisine is big on beef. Order a top sirloin at The Albany, in business since 1942, or head a little out of town to the Bunkhouse Bar & Grill for ribeye, live music, and dancing. IPA fans should hit Accomplice Beer Company, in the railroad depot; it serves pizza and beer-friendly food, too. The Paramount Café, housed in a restored movie theater, is great for lattes and the like. ●
peter fish is a San Francisco-based writer and editor with more than 20 years of experience, specializing in California and the American West. For many of those years, he was the travel editor at Sunset magazine. He is proud that he has visited all 58 of California’s counties.
CAPITAL FACT
With 64,000 residents, Cheyenne is Wyoming’s largest city.
clockwise from top left: Union Pacific Railroad Depot; live music at Bunkhouse Bar & Grill; Cheyenne Street Railway; steak and potato dinner at Bunkhouse Bar & Grill.
train 6 routes in the West for any traveler
All aboard, train lovers and skeptics—there’s a route for you.
by laura kiniry
Travel back in time on Grand Canyon Railway’s 64-mile route aboard an historic steam train.
There’s something about the rhythmic
turning of a train’s wheels that is simply meditative. The ultimate form of slow travel, railways allow you to sit back and watch the world pass by like a moving picture show, as scenic towns give way to open valleys, rolling foothills, and rising mountain vistas.
Some of the country’s most impressive train journeys happen to be in the West. These are the kinds of places you can’t get to by car: narrow red-rock canyons in the middle of Rocky Mountain wilderness, cliff-hugging tracks that switchback through Sierra conifer forest, and remote Alaskan backcountry brimming with wildlife.
While Amtrak, the U.S. national passenger railway company, operates a few of these, others run the gamut from heritage lines to dedicated rail-tour companies. You’ll find a lot to love about train travel, from superliner cars with sightseeing lounges to sit-down dining cars and en suite sleeper cars.
Ready to leave the car behind and hop the tracks for a one-of-a-kind adventure? Here are six railway journeys that will thrill new riders and train buffs alike.
BEST TRAIN FOR FIRST TIMERS
Amtrak’s Coast Starlight
One of Amtrak’s most legendary train routes, this 1,377-mile, 35-hour journey between Los Angeles and Seattle runs through many of the West Coast’s greatest cities—including Oakland, San Francisco, Sacramento, and Portland—and traverses some of its most majestic scenery (we’re talking driftwood-scattered beaches, vineyard-covered valleys, and snow-touched mountain peaks).
While the Coast Starlight runs daily in both directions, it’s northbound that travelers can take in some of the most remarkable views, especially during the longer days of summer. Beginning at L.A.’s landmark Union Station, the West Coast’s largest passemger railway terminal, the train heads west toward the Pacific. Once there, it hugs the coastline, providing panoramic ocean vistas dotted with surfers and stand-up paddleboarders, then makes its way to Santa Barbara, where fringy palm trees and red-tiled roofs beckon travelers with a cool seaside vibe.
After offering travelers a distant view of Vandenberg Space Force Base—the West
Coast launch center for spacecraft manufacturer SpaceX—the Starlight turns inland, passing through the fertile agricultural lands of Paso Robles and Salinas. Rows of vineyards give way to expansive citrus groves as the sun slowly sets on the horizon, lending an added sense of stillness to the already serene view.
On the following morning the train’s early risers are treated to one of its most inspiring attractions: 14,179-foot Mount Shasta—a potentially active volcano that serves as a striking stand-alone teaser for the many majestic mountain peaks ahead.
The Starlight crosses the Cascade Mountains at Oregon’s Willamette Pass, starting a long, slow descent from upwards of 4,000 feet down to the lush Willamette Valley, tracing the northward-flowing Willamette River, passing alongside Oregon’s longest covered bridge, and showcasing 1,500-foot-wide Willamette Falls. The spectacle of its churning waters is simply breathtaking—a description you’ll hear regularly on this iconic route.
Amtrak’s
Coast Starlight hugs the California shore offering sweeping views of the Pacific.
Amtrak’s longest daily train route, a 2,438-mile ride between Chicago and the San Francisco Bay Area’s Emeryville, encapsulates much of America’s natural beauty, with vast cornfields, narrow canyons, and sunlit buttes all part of the scenery. But for autumn leaf-peeping, the western stretch between Reno and Sacramento dazzles. Here, the Zephyr winds its way through the Sierra Nevada Mountains and Tahoe National Forest, passing among dense stands of maple, birch, and oak trees, their leaves in brilliant shades of red, gold, and orange come fall.
The views are especially captivating from the Sierra’s 7,056-foot-high Donner Pass, as the Zephyr traverses a series of remote, cliff-hugging tracks overlooking the woodlands of Donner Memorial
State Park and adjacent Donner Lake, its waters a mirror reflecting bright, colorful foliage. Onboard educational guides from Sacramento’s California State Railroad Museum often join this leg of the journey, sharing the area’s history and details on the western Transcontinental Railroad—constructed largely by Chinese immigrants—as you go.
For more autumn vistas, catch the train in Denver and head westward through the Rocky Mountains, where the changing aspen leaves create a vivid yellow landscape in spots. The Zephyr follows the Colorado River for 238 miles here, as the train works its way upwards through steep canyons and past occasional wildlife such as antelope and deer. In the changing light of shorter days, the scenery is especially captivating.
BEST TRAIN FOR FALL FOLIAGE
Amtrak’s California Zephyr
See autumnal hues on Amtrak’s California Zephyr. opposite: Inside a historic car on the Grand Canyon Railway.
JOE MCMILLAN
The Grand Canyon Railway
The Grand Canyon Railway’s winding, 64-mile journey between the once-frontier town of Williams, Arizona, and the south rim of Grand Canyon National Park, hearkens back to the days of the Old West. With its bevy of restored vintage railcars, this heritage railway (which made its first trip in 1901) is a rolling venue of living history.
You can choose among six classes of service ranging from Pullman Class—1920s railcars fitted with bench-style seats and windows that open to allow in the breeze—to the Luxury Parlor, an elegant car with cushioned high-back chairs, enclosed dome windows, and its own private bar. On board are strolling guitarists and fiddlers, cowpokes crooning Western classics like “Home on the Range,” and even the occasional “train robbery.” Each car also has a dedicated attendant to share facts about the area and offer tips on the best south rim hikes and lookout points.
(Yavapai Point, with its deep canyon views, is especially notable.)
A motley crew of cattle rustlers and train robbers known as the Cataract Creek Gang kicks off the nearly daily railway experience with a “shoot-out” performance at 9 a.m. sharp outside the Williams Grand Canyon Railway Depot. From there, the train meanders past the volcanic San Francisco Peaks, swaths of high desert prairie, and portions of vast ponderosa pine forest.
Once reaching the Grand Canyon, passengers have three hours to explore the park. For example, take a stroll along the 13-mile, mostly paved Rim Trail, or nurse a beer at historic El Tovar Hotel lounge. Or you can book a night at one of the on-site lodgings and return on a separate day.
The Rocky Mountaineer’s Rockies to the Red Rocks
Rather than a direct mode of transport, the Rocky Mountaineer’s Rockies to the Red Rocks is a dedicated rail tour. Travelers board the train in either Denver or Moab, Utah, then spend two days traveling between them, taking a break midway to stay at a hotel in Glenwood Springs. This specially designed route showcases some of the West’s most spectacular natural landscapes while treating passengers to perks such as in-seat dining, signature cocktails, and individual railcar hosts who might point out grazing elk, or delve into the history of the track’s Moffat Tunnel, a 6.2-mile passage through the Continental Divide at 9,239 feet in elevation.
You can even extend the trip with curated add-ons, such as motor-coach transport from Salt Lake City or Las Vegas, return train travel, and visits to national parks such as Canyonlands, with its river-formed buttes and enormous flat-topped mesa; and aptly named Arches, abounding with more than 2,000 of these natural rock formations.
Travelers board custom-designed, glass-dome
coach cars with oversize windows for taking in sights such as the Colorado Rockies and Utah’s towering hoodoos, slender rock spires formed by millions of years of erosion. Each car features its own designated chef, who serves up orders of wild mountain berry French toast and caprese salads using vine-ripened tomatoes, depending on the time of year.
If you’re willing to pay extra, you can even get access to an exclusive parlor car, complete with a small outdoor viewing area where you can breathe in the fresh mountain air.
The route utilizes some of the same tracks as the California Zephyr, including those between Denver and the Colorado–Utah state line. A run through 25-mile-long Ruby Canyon, named for its stunning red sandstone cliffs, follows the Colorado River. You’ll often spot rafters navigating the stretch’s mellow waters, as well as a few ready and waiting to moon passing trains—a long-standing canyon tradition.
Rocky Mountaineer’s Rockies to Red Rocks route runs between April and October.
BEST TRAIN FOR A LUXE GETAWAY
Rocky Mountaineer train near Ruby Canyon, Colorado. opposite: Amtrak’s Empire Builder train crossing the Goat Lick Trestle over Sheep Creek near Essex, Montana.
Amtrak’s Empire Builder
Traveling largely in the footsteps of pioneer explorers Lewis and Clark, the Empire Builder first began rolling in 1929 as the flagship passenger train of the Great Northern Railway, a transcontinental service that encouraged Americans to “see America first.” Amtrak took over services in 1971, allowing today’s travelers to make the epic journey—more than 2,200 miles—between Chicago in the east to either Seattle or Portland. The western expanse, stretching from the West Coast’s urban centers to Montana’s Big Sky country, offers passengers some of the most jaw-dropping views.
Those traveling from Portland are regaled with the sight of Mount Hood—an 11,249-foot knockout with a crowned peak and perpetual snow—and passage through the Columbia River Gorge, with its sheer basalt walls, dense fir trees, and gushing falls. If you leave from Seattle, you can watch for porpoises breaching in the open waters of Puget Sound; as you continue on through the Cascade Range, you’ll see a geologic mosaic made up of everything from ocean sediments to bits of Earth’s subcrustal mantle.
The two trains link together in Spokane and travel over-
night through Idaho, arriving in the Montana mountain resort of Whitefish, with its walkable, historic downtown. From here, the train travels along the Flathead River toward Glacier National Park, the rail lines’s crowning jewel.
Train depots bookend the park on both sides, providing access to West Glacier, a small village in its southwest corner that serves as the park’s western entrance; Lake McDonald (the park’s largest); and Going-to-the-Sun Road, a 50-mile drive that twists its way beneath rock walls, tumbling falls, and eye-popping mountain curves. A remote train station in the park’s southeast corner welcomes passengers to Glacier Park Lodge, constructed from enormous Douglas fir trees and opened in 1913 as the Great Northern Railway’s first railway hotel.
Traveling along the park’s southern edge between the depots, the Empire Builder basks in the staggering beauty of rising mountain peaks; crosses the Continental Divide, which separates North America’s river systems as they flow into various seas; and skirts the property of the Izaak Walton Inn, a historic Tudor revival–style lodge originally built as a dorm for railroad workers.
BEST TRAIN FOR EXPERIENCED RAILWAY TRAVELERS
Alaska Railroad’s Denali Star Train
Even to those for whom riding the rails is a personal pastime, Alaska Railroad’s Denali Star Train stands out as one of the West’s most monumental railway experiences. The entire route spans 350 miles from the state’s largest city, Anchorage, to Fairbanks, but its access to Denali National Park & Preserve—6 million wild acres of taiga forest, high-alpine tundra, and massive mountains—that make this trip truly unforgettable.
The trains run daily, early May through mid-September, departing in the early morning in both directions, and arriving at the final destination around 12 hours later. Traveling north from Anchorage, the train follows the Chugach Mountains (the city’s backyard wilderness) and makes its way toward the quirky town of Talkeetna, with its clapboard storefronts and shops selling everything from sourdough starter to sockeye salmon windsocks. Just before and after town, the views of 20,310-foot Mt. Denali, North America’s tallest peak, are some of the best the railway has to offer, as long as it’s a clear day.
Making its way into Alaska’s backcountry interior, the train continues past the occasional remote log cabin en route to Hurricane Gulch Bridge, a 914-foot-long, steel-arch trestle bridge that stretches 296 feet above the rippling creek below. It’s Alaska’s longest and tallest railway bridge, providing superb views of the valley below and its thick pine forest. By late afternoon, the train pulls into Denali, where you can disembark to explore the park.
Denali Star passengers can choose between a trio of travel options, which include the budget-friendly Adventure Class, the more upscale GoldStar Service with all-inclusive meals (think buffalo chili and reindeer penne Bolognese), and the privately operated Wilderness Express, a dome car with 360-degree window vistas and back-of-the-train views, so you can step outside and see a meandering moose or even the rare grizzly bear. ●
laura kiniry is a freelance journalist based in San Francisco. Her writing has appeared in dozens of national, regional, and online publications.
Alaska Railroad’s Denali Star Train passes over the Riley Creek Bridge in Denali National Park.
