Truly Love Egypt Fayoum Oasis March 2015 Issue 10
Rayan Valley Valley of Whales Tunis Village Temple of Stone Pyramids Succulent Duck recipe
PLEASE TURN ON YOUR SOUND
The song that is playing is Mashribtish Min Nilha by Shireen
4
EDITOR’S MESSAGE
Cont
Ta-she; the land of plenty since pre-historic times!
6
TRULY LOVE NATURE Rayan Valley; an untouched gem and Valley of Whales; an open archeological museum 6 Rayan Valley
10 TRULY LOVE DAY ACTIVITIES From ancient history to present day Fayoum; plenty to see!
14 SCRAPBOOK PAGE 16 FEATURED STAFF Aisha AbdelWahab 2
10 Tunis Village
tents
18 TRULY LOVE HISTORY At least 40 million years of history awaits you!
22
TRULY LOVE SHOPPING Handmade products; simplicity at its best!
26
TRULY LOVE NIGHTLIFE Be one with nature!
30
TRULY LOVE INVESTING A blank canvas with plenty of investment options!
32
TRULY LOVE CUISINES Succulent Duck: history dating back to Ancient Egypt and the method
34
UPCOMING ISSUE
18 Hawara Pyramid
22 Handmade pottery
3
Please note that very soon, all our ezines will be placed exclusively on our website www.sarkiss.net
EDITOR’S MESSAGE Our mission is to deliver the most accurate, up-to-date information in order to show different kinds of visitors what may interest them.
First mentioned in history as “Tashe”, Fayoum Oasis is a basin in the desert to the west of the Nile. The basin floor consists of fields watered by a channel of the Nile, Bahr Yousef. Therefore, Fayoum is not a true oasis since, unlike typical oases, it does not depend on water obtained from springs. Being excellent fertile land, Fayoum Oasis yields several crops including olives, cereals and cotton. It is also renowned for its figs and grapes. Its numerous rose trees provide excellent rose water, which is locally produced. No wonder Fayoum has the earliest evidence for farming in Egypt and was one of the breadbaskets of the Roman Empire. There are extensive archaeological remains throughout Fayoum dating back to prehistoric times up to modern times. Three pyramids and an obelisk are some of the remains of ancient Egyptians. The ruins near Lake Qaroun, or Lake Moeris as the Greeks and Romans called it, are of various ancient villages and cities. The ancient Greeks named Fayoum “Crocodilopolis” as the oasis honoured the ancient Egyptian god,
Sobek; the crocodile god. For the first three centuries AD, mummification practices in Fayoum included placing a portrait of the deceased over the face of the mummy wrappings or shroud. These portraits were painted on wood. Egyptians, despite Roman preference for cremation, continued to bury their dead. These mummies with portraits are the famous Fayoum portraits you will read about in the history article. These portraits showcase the cosmopolitan nature of Fayoum at that time. People of mixed origins -Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, Syrians, Libyans and others- lived 2,000 years ago in Fayoum. Other than its long history dating 40 million years ago, Fayoum has plenty to offer its visitors, including clean, fresh air, a year round moderate climate and kind, friendly people. Fayoum is 90km from Cairo. Several coaches and taxis make the trip daily. Manager, Editor and Designer
Amani Adel Sarkiss
Manager, Editor and Designer Amani Adel Sarkiss Freelance Writers Aisha Abdelwahab Basma Amer Enas Elmohands Amal Sarkiss Photography Aisha AbdelWahab: p16 & 17 Mohamed Anas: p3 top, p6, p11 right, p27, p28 bottom, p29, p31,p32 left Ibrahim ElAwadi: p26 Mohamed Nabil Hammad: cover Emad Omar: p2 bottom, p3 bottom, p12, p15, p22, p23 left, p25 Sebastian Plötzgen: p8 Amal Sarkiss: p32 right Ahmed Yaqub: p2 top, p7, p9, p10, p11 left, p14 & 15 background, p23 right, p24, p30 Yahoo images: all other photos
Ideas and content are copyright and property of Sarkiss Publicity and Advertising Registered in Egypt: 64958 truly-love-egypt@sarkiss.net 5
TRULY LOVE NATURE
By Basma Amer
The nature in both Wadi El-Rayan and Wadi ElHeetan reveals a tall tale of animal life, dating back forty million years. Rayan Valley ‘Wadi El-Rayan’ An untouched gem, about 65 km southwest of the town of Fayoum, Wadi El-Rayan houses beautiful waterfalls. The waters are nestled within the desert’s gold and yellow rock formations and hidden under the sandy green and brown plants above the waterfalls. The colors work together, creating a mystery within one of the oldest locales in the world.
The reason why the waterfalls exist today is
formations.
due to drainage. The waterfalls extend
Valley of Whales ‘Wadi El-Heetan’
between two man-made lakes, an upper and a
Located 60 km south of Wadi El-Rayan is
lower lake. Unlike the waterfalls, the lakes
Wadi El-Heetan. It falls under Wadi El-
are a vibrant blue, creating an eloquent
Rayan’s protected area in Fayoum and has
contrast along the sandy horizon. The upper
plenty to offer the world. It is considered an
lake is about 50 km2. The lower lake is about
open archeological museum due to its
62 km2 and consists of three sulphur springs
abundant number of fossils. There are whale
and sand dunes on its southern side. Also
fossils revealing evolutionary concepts, such
located in Wadi El-Rayan are two mountains:
as that whales used to have feet at one point
Jabal Manqueer and Jabal Madawara. Fossils
in time which enabled them to enter the
of sea animals can be found south of Jabal
water. In addition, there are shark teeth, shells
Manqueer. Jabal Madawara, which is a bit
and mangrove roots preserved in rocks.
round
Wadi El-Heetan primarily contains marine
in
shape,
boasts
various
dune
Cont.
7
fossils, including dogfish fossils which can be
deer, Egyptian deer and wolves. In addition,
found -together with other fossils of sharks
there is a wide range of birds, such as the
and whales- behind Jabal Gar Johannam, also
shaheen falcon, deer falcon, ducks, quail and
known as the Mountain Next to Hell. It was
different kinds of heron. Moreover, Wadi El-
named so due to the way the sun reflects its
Rayan is a stopover location for a large
fiery red rays against it during sunset.
number of migrating birds, which makes it a
Not only is Wadi-El Heetan a place which
great place to go bird watching. The valley
houses animal remnants, it is home to an
also encompasses a variety of plant species
existing, significant array of life. The
such as thirteen species of perennial plants,
protected Wadi El-Rayan and Wadi El-Heetan
Calligonum
are habitats to a variety of animal species
album and reed.
such as the Dorcas Gazelle, Fennec Vulpes
If you are a true nature lover, a visit to these
zerda, Ruppell's Sand Fox, the endangered
two valleys would result in undisputed
Slender-horned Gazelle Leptoceros, white
pleasure and a wealth of photographs.
comosum and
Zygophyllum
9
TRULY LOVE DAY ACTIVITIES By Basma Amer One of the most ancient sites in the world, Fayoum, is a marvel to the world. It is a representation of history, displaying thousands of years’ worth of natural, cultural and religious heritage. Fayoum is a location at which Greco-Roman and ancient Egyptian cultures combined to create a cross-cultural legacy. The ancient town of Dionysias, also known as Qasr Qarun, lies in ruins; however, the Temple of Stone, dedicated to the god Sobek-Re and built between 330 and 323 BC, has withstood the test of time and continues to be a popular tourist attraction. The temple appears to be a simple box like structure from the outside but, in actuality, consists of a complex labyrinth inside, and has a view from the roof you may want to add to your photo album.
Another beautiful image worth capturing is the
Fayoum
exhibits
a
magnificent
history,
interfaith-cohesion established over centuries.
especially of its nature. Examine fossils in
Al-Malak Monastery, also known as the
Wadi El-Heetan, the Valley of Whales, and
Monastery of Archangel Gabriel, greets buses
explore evolution firsthand. If a break from
full of pilgrims during the festival of
history is what you need, then continue your
Archangel Gabriel on the 18th of December. So
visit with one of the many tours in Fayoum
if you are in Fayoum on that date, be sure to
dedicated to bird watching in two of Fayoum’s
join in the festivities. Also located in Fayoum
protected areas: Wadi El Rayan and Lake
is the Qaitbay Mosque, built during the
Qarun. You will capture some of the finest
Mamluk era. It is said that Sultan Qaitbay’s
pictures and have one of the most magnificent
wife gifted her husband with it, making
experiences sighting the variety of birds
Fayoum, like many towns in Egypt, a land rich
Fayoum has to offer.
with religious antiquity and solidarity.
If you want to adjust your tour of Fayoum to Cont. 11
Tunis Village
Tunis Village
exciting instead of relaxing, be sure to visit
experience. It is a fascinating oasis where
the desert. Fayoum’s desert has plenty to
many paths have crossed over the centuries
offer, including desert safaris, sand boarding
and,
the dunes and horse and camel treks. Take
remarkable place in Egypt.
advantage of Fayoum’s calm scenery by
Tips:
camping overnight in its beautiful desert
Dionysias ruins:
under the starlit sky.
Caution: snakes may be present!
To add more excitement and diversity to
Bird watching tours:
your trip, wander the streets of Tunis
Larger groups get better deals.
Village and enjoy their pottery collections,
Children under six may receive a discount or
Fayoum’s water wheels and the Senusret
join free of charge. Check with your tour
obelisk, built during the 12th Dynasty, about
guide.
ten minutes away from Downtown.
International Student Card holders may
Fayoum is most certainly a remarkable
receive a discount.
in
return,
created
yet
another
13
SCRAPBOOK PAGE
Aisha AbdelWahab I'm Aisha Abdelwahab. Some people call me Ash. I am 16 years old ("golden age" as you all know) and I go to the French School of Hurghada. I am basically your average everyday teenage girl with a slightly unhealthy obsession with music and arts. I think bright colors are a major source of happiness and that creativity is a portal to my own little universe that involves a lot of chocolate, drawing and reading. I am lazier than a sloth (my boss couldn't contradict me on that one) but I still dream big enough to keep my motivation going (I never started eating healthy as promised in my New Year’s resolution though). I love to be part of humanitarian associations and all that jazz; it keeps me aware of what's going on around me in the world and, most importantly, in my own country. I'm crazy enough to go skydiving with you but sane enough to stop you from jumping into a volcano. I enjoy drowning in the whirlwind of social media and phone addiction. Last but certainly not least, anything authentic, oriental and rustic is absolutely mesmerizing for me (I think this is where I got my love for Egypt). Writing in Truly Love Egypt is my own way of expressing myself and my own
Art by Aisha AbdelWahab
way of contributing to the growth of this amazing country. I'd like to thank Amy Sarkiss for giving me the opportunity to do what I love at the mere age of 16 (although age is still just a number in my eyes) and I'd like to thank all of our readers for the amazing support they have given us from the very beginning (You are more than amazing, believe me!). Fact: If you hear someone screaming from the distance, that's probably me running away from an insect (probably a big one)! Quote: “Each one of us is amazing in their own way� - me
Aisha AbdelWahab 17
TRULY LOVE HISTORY By Aisha AbdelWahab As the sun rises over the horizon and illuminates the world of beauty and serenity; a world in which simplicity is the key to life, the sunshine unveils what the darkness has once hidden, Fayoum; the oasis, the beautiful town and the Egyptian heaven on earth, as graceful and elegant as the majestic animals that grace her lands, as mysterious and interesting as her inhabitants that hold a million traditions and secrets within their ethnic groups. A voyage is initiated through
the tropical heaven that mingles with the ever-mysterious desert to guide us through the historical sites that lie within this land. Fayoum has a history that dates back to the Pharaonic era in which it was first mentioned under the name of “Ta-she”, “Shedyt” and “Crocodilopolis”, the latter referring to it being a land sacred to the crocodile god, Sobek. Pharaonic monuments, such as Al-Lahun Pyramid and the Hawara Pyramid, were constructed in Cont.
Lahun Pyramid
Hawara Pyramid
Meidum Pyramid
19
the Dynasty XII by Pharaohs Senwosret I, Senwosret II and Amenhemet III and fortunately exist till this day. The oldest true, the Meidum Pyramid, is attributed to Sneferu during the Old Kingdom and still maintains much of its glory. Monuments, temples and Fayoum portraits, to which some date back to the G r e c o -R o ma n t i me s , ha v e a l l contributed to the image Fayoum now represents. The history of Fayoum has been supplied by papyrus, mummies and architectures dating back to those eras. It is said that Human intervention began as early as 2100 BC to 1750 BC in which farming and agriculture reached their peaks in the Roman and Ptolemaic 20
eras. A must-see monument, which is a landmark in Fayoum, is the shadouf and water wheels that have graced the land of Fayoum since then. It is reputed that they were first introduced by the Ptolemies. Around 200 of these water wheels exist throughout the city, and they still fulfill their function by irrigating the agricultural fields, powered by fast-flowing water. There are other water-related landmarks such as the bridges that run over the Bahr Yussef canal on which one of the arches carries the Main Street and the bazaars while the other is the land on which the Qaitbay Mosque was founded, a gift to honor the Mamluk Sultan in Fayoum. Another historical site that should
definitely amaze you and will, without a doubt, pique your interest in fossils is the Valley of Whales, in which hundreds of fossilized whale skeletons are trapped in the sand. It is estimated that 40 to 50 million years ago this large space was submerged by the Thetis sea. Whilst some of the fossils of the whales present in the Valley of Whales reveal extinct whales, others are of present day ones. This site, in consequence, demonstrates the evolution of whales throughout history. However, the reason as to why those skeletons are located there still remains a mystery. Fayoum is a true dime of the Egyptian lands. It has a history that dates back to
prehistoric eras and illustrates signs of the evolution of the world as well as that of various creatures. Endless sites hold incredible stories waiting to be told and a variety of cultures that have morphed into one are waiting to be experienced. Fayoum is simply the place to be!
Fact of the month: Fayoum contains one of the best preserved paleontological sites in the world. Quote of the month: “To know nothing of what happened before you were born is to forever remain a child� -Cicero
TRULY LOVE SHOPPING By Aisha AbdelWahab
This month’s motto is “Simplicity”. Because “simple” will forever be beautiful just as shopping will forever remain addictive and koshary will forever stay delicious. Those are universal laws that should be known by now. And since no introductions really need to be done because the word “shopping” is the only introduction you will ever really need- we are going to begin our virtual shopping spree.
22
Since everybody knows that “Truly Love Egypt” has a not-so-secretive-anymore obsession with handmade products and that any addiction such as this one needs to be satisfied, we, our lovely readers, are going to give you an all-organic, all-primitive and all-hand-made dose of happiness. Why? Simply because we love you and because anything that corresponds to this criteria is in now. Where would you find handmade products? Nowhere other than markets of course! Just imagine the Bedouins and the locals all lining up in a colorful market full of new and unique products that your eyes don't recognize but really like. How about handmade colorful baskets of every shape and size or long smooth scarves made with none other than the universally recognized Egyptian cotton? Or yet again colors that aren't chemically modified or enhanced? How about plenty of herbs to please your senses and smells that might be all too
unfamiliar but extremely satisfying? Well, you needn’t imagine anymore because Fayoum is our own miniature wonderland of primitive happiness and soon to be yours too. Fayoum's products are appreciated for their quality and the fact that they're inexpensive. Fayoum is best known for embroidery and bead work; amazing long scarves with colorful embroidered flowers, unique tableware and authentic handmade jewelries, the weaving of 100% Egyptian cotton to make traditional clothes such as Galabeyas and colorful Egyptian rugs with unique designs (rarely would you find two rugs having the same pattern as they are handmade and therefore très unique), the tapestry; amazing pictures and designs such as landscapes and portraits made with thick, colorful textiles and, of course, handmade baskets made by the local Bedouin women and children using rice straw and palm leaves. There are many local markets in Fayoum, some Cont.
23
24
held daily and others weekly such as the pottery market that is held every Tuesday and in which you will find unique pottery ready to buy or in the making. You can watch different potters during the process of making pottery and you might get inspired yourself and take a course to make your own. Some are painted using authentic Arabic designs and others are kept in their original color, which gives them a primitive vibe and a value of their own. Reddish brown complements most colors so falling in love with one of them is completely normal. You will also, without a doubt, find large fresh fruit and vegetables stands, fish markets as well as herbs and organic products stands selling soaps, oils, henna, colors, etc. If you would like to take your shopping spree to a new level, visit downtown Fayoum and check out the large bazaars and the gift and souvenirs stores if you want a Nefertiti or a little pyramid
of your own. I wouldn't recommend traveling without necessities such as specific medications, etc. You will find coffee shops and restaurants in the area where you can reward yourself with some Turkish coffee and some well-deserved Bedouin made fetir. It is Good with a capital G and will have you wanting more. I hope you will enjoy your trip to Fayoum as much as I have enjoyed writing this article. Here is a little reward if you have read this article till the end: Fact of the month: When you buy handmade products, you create a direct relationship with the artist or the designer. Quote of the month: “I have enough clothes and shoes. I don't need to go shopping� - said no woman ever! 25
TRULY LOVE NIGHTLIFE By Enas Elmohands
In the oasis known for its historical worship of Sobek- there is no fear under the moonlit skies over crocodile attacks or sacrifices. But if you want to pay homage to the stars, you can stuff your eyes with the clusters and constellations above you; Orion’s Belt will never look sharper and you can pinpoint your zodiac sign effortlessly. Nightlife in Fayoum can be synthesized into this one Arabic proverb: “Make distance between you and all that isn’t pure.” It cleanses from the fumes of the city -the overpopulation, the passionate energy, the pollution- and provides a purifying environment for rumination. For families looking to spend quality time with loved ones, camping is available for pocket money at the waterfalls in Rayan
Valley Protected Area. It gets chilly, especially after sunset, so it is advised to bring warm clothing and sufficient camping material. Lake Qarun is another option where you can sit in a café and enjoy a lovely meal with a beautiful expansive view. If you are looking for something romantic, a sunset ride on horseback can bring you to a secluded area by the lake or amongst sand dunes with local Bedouins to have a bonfire and enjoy music. While they play the tabla or the dof, their poetry will sing itself as your eyes feast on the view and your belly expands from drink. It is BYOB (bring your own beer) as it is not sold there but accepted for tourists to indulge. They will fire-grill meat or chicken, make you a Cont.
27
30
traditional Bedouin dinner, and then offer you their world-famous one-of-a-kind tea. If you are an artist or looking for something more creative to do, in Tunis Village, you’ll often find artists and intellectuals from Cairo who use this village as an inspired vacation from Cairo to work on their art, music or poetry. You will also meet resident artists from around the world and will run into interesting pottery creations along the way.
If you are going with friends, make sure to come with a deck of cards or board games and if you are really ambitious, a game of Twister! Fayoum is the scene for those who enjoy the tranquility of silence; for those who enjoy a good book, a good drink, good music and good conversations with even better company. Though at the time of writing this, there aren’t many venues to go to, such as bars or clubs, Fayoum at night is a blank canvas for you to make what you will out of it!
29
TRULY LOVE INVESTING By Amani Sarkiss
This section is dedicated to small and medium sized investors looking for possibilities to invest their money from afar or move to a country where sunshine, sea and relaxation are a way of life.
30
Fayoum, with all its history and exquisite nature, is still, in many ways, a blank canvas in terms of investments. According to Mohamed Anas, a Fayoum resident, the opportunities for the small and medium sized investors are plenty. If you are one for tourism development, Anas has plenty of ideas for the industry. There are several motels and hotels in Fayoum; however, the beautiful and serene Tunis Village can easily do with a 4 or 5 star quality hotel. Tunis Village attracts different kinds of tourists such as those interested in handicrafts. A good hotel would find plenty of customers, especially if the nightlife venues are well-developed. Entertainment is definitely needed in Fayoum. If Rayan Valley is what you would be interested in investing in, a center that rents sand boards would do well there. Sand boarding has become popular with youth recently so the investment will be worth it. Another activity that is popular amongst youth and people who love sports in general is water related activities. Anas explains that different water sports, provided on the site of Lake Qaroun with different age groups in mind, would attract people from Fayoum as well as those from Cairo. If your kind of entertainment is more hospitality and culture rolled into one, you could invest in setting up Bedouin tents at any or all of the following sites: Valley of Whales, Rayan Valley, Kosour ElArab or the Magic Lake. These tents would provide snacks, beverages, music and all things Bedouin. If you prefer investing in education, starting up a learning center that provides various courses in soft skills, marketing skills etc would find plenty of willing learners. Fayoum residents lack the resources to learn such skills and travelling to nearby Cairo proves to be cumbersome if one had to do it several days a week.
Profiting from the local handicraft is another option to go for. If you are into the import/export business, you can open new markets for the various handmade products that are locally produced. See our article on shopping for a full list of products handmade in Fayoum. Whatever you decide to invest in, know that the kind and friendly people of Fayoum will support you and your business to help it flourish.
Mohamed Anas
Regulations and Safety Issues 1. Do not drink tap water. 2. All the fish restaurants around Lake Qaroun are hygienic. However, be choosey where you eat in Fayoum town to ensure cleanliness. 3. It gets chilly at night so make sure you take something warm to wear if you need to. 4. Other than hotels and motels, locals will offer rooms in their homes for rent. This is normal and safe in Fayoum and will give you a taste of the local culture. 31
TRULY LOVE CUISINES
By Amal Sarkiss
Succulent Duck
Ducks have played a significant role in Egypt since the Ancient Egyptians. The bird was used in hieroglyphs to indicate different phonemes by using different depictions such as
Along with other poultry like fowls, geese, pigeons and quails, ducks were in the diet of the common people of the Ancient Egyptian society. Beef, however, was consumed mainly by royalties. This later changed as evident from the activities of Egypt’s last monarch, King Farouk, whose favorite pastime was duck hunting in Fayoum. Fayoum, being a stopover for various migrating birds including several kinds of ducks, is one of the preferred spots for birdwatchers and hunters alike. Duck hunting season is mainly from the last week of November to the end of March but is also possible at other times throughout the year and Fayoum is well-equipped for this leisure activity. Egyptians love duck meat. In Egyptian villages, true hospitality is shown by cooking a male duck for the visitor to feast on. Duck meat has its own unique flavor but it is high in its fat content (Cholesterol). Therefore, it is advisable that you do not eat the skin. 32
Preparation time
Cooking Time
Serves
30 min
Approx 2 hours
6-8
Ingredients: 1 medium sized duck 2 large onions 1tbsp salt 1tsp black pepper 8 cardamom pods 2 bay leaves 2 sage leaves
4 pieces of mestique (also known as mastic, lentisco or Arabic gum) To clean the duck you will need: ¼ cup flour ¼ cup salt
Directions: Using water, clean the duck well. Rub with salt and flour (1/4 cup each) and leave for 20 minutes. Rinse well and set aside to drain the excess water. Fill a large pot with water, enough to cover the duck. When the water boils, add the duck and salt and remove the froth as it forms. When there is no more froth, add the onions, the herbs and the spices to the cooking duck. Reduce the heat and cover the pot. Let it cook for 1½ to 2 hours. Add hot water if the water level decreases. Turn the duck over to make sure all the parts are well-cooked. Test with a fork to see whether it is done. The fork should penetrate the duck breast easily when the duck is cooked. Remove the duck from the broth and place it on an oven pan. Place under the oven grill on its back for about 5-10 minutes till the skin becomes golden brown. This means that the fat has been rendered. You do not need to brush the duck’s skin with butter as it already contains a lot of fat. Presentation: The duck may be served whole on a large dish or cut into portions and served with rice and salad.
Stock made from duck is very rich. Many remove the fat on its surface to reduce the amount of fat consumed when the stock is used in other dishes. Duck stock is used to make molukheya (green soup) and other Egyptian dishes like rukak. 33
Our upcoming April issue
To subscribe, read all our issues or contact us, please visit www.sarkiss.net