Truly Love Egypt Port Fouad & Port Said
December 2014 Issue 7
Lake Manzala The Pharaonic city of Tanis Extra: Eastern and Western Christmas Squid Tagen
PLEASE TURN ON YOUR SOUND
The song that is playing is Waadi by Medhat Saleh
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EDITOR’S MESSAGE Port Said, the first line of defense
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Extra: Eastern and Western Christmas
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TRULY LOVE NATURE Lake Manzala, a nature lover’s haven
Cont Merry Christmas! from the Truly Love Egypt team
6 Eastern and Western Christmas
12 TRULY LOVE DAY ACTIVITIES Discover the Pharaonic city of Tanis and take a walk through 20th century wars
14 SCRAPBOOK PAGE 2
12 The city of Tanis
tents
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TRULY LOVE HISTORY The construction of Port Said and Port Fouad
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TRULY LOVE SHOPPING A shopaholic’s haven!
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TRULY LOVE NIGHTLIFE Not just a seafood heaven!!
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TRULY LOVE INVESTING Port Fouad, the virgin city!
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TRULY LOVE CUISINES Squid Tagen: delicious and nutritious
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UPCOMING ISSUE
16 The construction of the two cities
26 Recipes invented, tried and tested in Port Said
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EDITOR’S MESSAGE Our mission is to deliver the most accurate, up-to-date information in order to show different kinds of visitors what may interest them.
Port Said, Egypt’s second biggest port, was founded as the result of a decision to build the Suez Canal. (You will find more details on both Port Said and Port Fouad in the history article on page 16). Since the foundation of Port Said, people of all nationalities moved to it, with each community bringing in their customs, cuisine, religion and architecture. By the early 20th century, Port Said was a bustling international port with a multi-national population: Jewish merchants, Egyptian shopkeepers, Greek photographers, Italian architects, Swiss hoteliers, Maltese administrators, Scottish engineers and French bankers. Multilingualism was the norm with French and Italian being dominant. Located on the northeastern tip of mainland Egypt, Port Said has played a major role in Egyptian history. The British used it as their entrance point to invade Egypt in 1882. When President Gamal Abdel Nasser nationalized the Suez Canal Company in 1956, Britain and France conspired with Israel to invade Egypt. The main battles of this invasion, known in Egypt as the Tripartite Aggression or the Suez Crisis, took place in Port Said. The population of Port Said had been ashamed that the British had occupied Egypt via
Port Said and so took it upon themselves to redeem their name. Several battles took place before the last foreign soldier withdrew on the 23rd of December 1956, Port Said's national day since then. During the wars between Egypt and Israel, which lasted until 1973, Port Said remained Egypt’s first line of defense and witnessed the highest loss of lives and property in mainland Egypt. In 1976, as a token of gratitude to the occupants, President Mohamed Anwar Sadat declared Port Said a duty free port, transforming it from a city that relied on fishing and the Suez Canal for its income to a major commercial city, attracting people from all over Egypt. Even though this status of being a duty free port was later changed by President Hosney Mubarak for political reasons, Port Said still functions as one. Distance: 200km from Cairo to Port Said by trains, taxis and coaches. Port Said to Port Fouad: a ferry across the Suez Canal. Climate: coldest month January 14C, hottest months July and August 27C but the cool Mediterranean breeze make it a favourite summertime destination. Manager, Editor and Designer
Amani Adel Sarkiss
Manager, Editor and Designer Amani Adel Sarkiss
Freelance Writers Aisha Abdelwahab Basma Amer Heba Ghoneim
Photography Yasser El-Rasoul: p8, p9 top two, p10 Mohamed Nabil Hammad: p3 top, p16, p29 Amal Sarkiss: p30 Yahoo Images: all other photos
Ideas and content are copyright and property of Sarkiss Publicity and Advertising Registered in Egypt: 64958 truly-love-egypt@sarkiss.net 5
EASTERN AND WESTERN CHRISTMAS By Amani Sarkiss Who are the Copts and what is Coptic? A Copt is an Egyptian. The word is derived from the ancient Egyptian word for Egypt, “Egypto�. In its modern use, it refers to Egyptian Christians, as well as the last stage of the ancient Egyptian language script and the distinctive art and architecture that developed as an early expression of Christianity in Egypt.
When and how did Christianity start in Egypt? The Coptic Church is based on the teachings of Saint Mark who established the Coptic Orthodox Church of Alexandria in the 1st century during the reign of the Roman Emperor Nero. Christianity spread throughout Egypt within half a century. Evidence of this is in the New Testament writings found in Bahnasa, in Middle Egypt, dated 200 A.D., and a fragment of the Gospel of Saint John, written in Coptic, which was found in Upper Egypt and dated to early 2nd century. The Coptic Church is now more than nineteen centuries old.
What is the percentage of Christians in Egypt? Even though the Christian population in Egypt is the largest in the Middle East, they are 9% of the total population in Egypt. How do Egyptian Christians view themselves? They view themselves as Egyptians whose ancestors embraced Christianity in the 1st century.
Which church do they follow? About 95% of Egypt's Christians are members of the Coptic Orthodox Church of Alexandria. It is headed by the Pope of the Coptic Orthodox Church of Alexandria. It has followers of approximately 20 million Christians worldwide. The remaining 5% of Egyptian Christians are adherents of the Coptic Catholic Church, the Coptic Evangelical Church and various Coptic Protestant denominations. Are Egyptian Christians discriminated against in Egypt? Discrimination exists wherever there are different races, religions, genders or any other lame excuse for treating someone badly. Even though there are incidents of discrimination against Egyptian Christians, on the whole, there isn’t. The Pope of the Coptic Orthodox Church is respected by Christians and Muslims alike. Many Muslims attend Christmas mass with their friends. A common scene in Egypt is a mosque and a church built next to one another.
Pope Tawadros II
What is the difference between Eastern and Western Christmas? The Coptic calendar is based on the ancient Egyptian calendar with years being 365 days long. This has resulted in a difference of 13 days between it and the Gregorian calendar. So while Western or Catholic Christmas occurs on 25th December, the Eastern or Orthodox Christmas occurs on 7th January.
What are the signs of the approach of Christmas in Egypt? Many shops and hotels start putting up Christmas decorations and Christmas trees by mid December and do not take them down until after 7th January. Bakeries make various Christmas cakes, chocolates and sweets. And, of course, churches start preparing for Christmas mass and New Year celebrations which include rehearsing Christmas carols. The most important sign of Christmas in Egypt, though, is the Muslims wishing their friends a very merry Christmas! A common sight in Egypt; a church next to a mosque
TRULY LOVE NATURE By Basma Amer
Lake
Manzala,
the
largest
Mediterranean
wetland; approximately 60 X 40 km, is located in the Nile Delta, northeastern Egypt. In the past few years, it has been undergoing cost-effective water treatments to rid it of pollution. There has been much success with purifying the lake from toxic wastes and, now, fish farms have been created in the northwestern part of the lake to increase fish population. Despite the rough patches it has witnessed throughout the years, this wetland is still thriving. More than a thousand islands can be found throughout the lake, housing Mother Nature’s diversity. Its shallow waters have a variety of birds, animals, plants and habitats emerging from it. Reed Swamps Located on the south and the west islands, where the water is less salty, is a range of reed swamps; Phragmites, the common reed, and Typha, also known as cattail and bulrush, are a true spectacle. These plants have a beautiful way of playing to each other’s strengths, designing a
visual
masterpiece. The rustic brown of the Phragmite and pale yellow and green of the Typha are so intertwined with the submerged water-plants, Najas and Potamogeton, to create a unique floating forest complex. Salt Marshes and Sandy Areas The salt marshes, on the other hand, lay opposite Cont.
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the reed swamps, in the northern coast of the
worth capturing. The species of birds include
lake. There you can set your eyes on the visual
little gull, whiskered tern, pied avocet, little stint,
beauty as well as the variety of textures that the
dunlin and ruff. Lake Manzala is also an
Juncus and the Halocnemum offer. The Juncus’
important breeding land for many water birds
white flowers sparkle amidst the vast green of
and
the Halocnemum’s buds, displaying a glittering
egret, squacco heron, purple swamp hen, little
work of art. This strange quality of color and
tern,
dimension add an extra element of complexity,
wing, collared pratincole, Egyptian nightjar, pied
just as the reed swamps do. When combined
kingfisher and clamorous reed warbler.
with the sandy areas, however, a whole new
In addition to the many birds you’ll spot, on the
species is invited into the picture; the coastal
Mediterranean shore of Lake Manzala, an
dunes, mudflats and open water enable a variety
endangered marine turtle called the loggerhead
of birds to co-exist.
sea turtle is most likely to breed in this area. You
Animal Life
might even get a chance to catch a glimpse of the
This co-existence paints a full picture definitely
Egyptian jungle cat.
wetland
Kentish
species:
plover,
little
bittern,
spur-winged
little
lap-
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TRULY LOVE DAY ACTIVITIES
By Basma Amer
Port Said, situated in northeast Egypt, is one of
chance to take plenty of pictures. You may
Egypt’s more modern cities. Established in the
even capture the fishermen, hard at work in the
mid 1800s, it has a more rustic feel to it than
early
most cities in Egypt. The city’s economy
Mediterranean. Such images and experiences
flourishes on a diverse number of industries.
can truly add depth and appreciation to the
Fishing for Fun
different worlds we journey.
One of those industries happens to be fishing,
Stroll Through History
which gives you an opportunity to put your
Continue
sail boots on and head out to Lake Manzala.
venturing to the ancient city of Tanis, or San
The lake, also considered a lagoon, is a
El-Hagar in Arabic. It allows you to embark
relaxing
the
on a journey through history in another one of
opportunity to be surrounded by soothing
Egypt’s ancient landmarks. The city consists
waters and have a great fishing journey and a
of ruins and archeological artifacts.
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destination.
It
gives
you
mornings,
on
experiencing
the
this
coast
of
journey
the
by
Previous page: The city of Tanis Above: The Military Museum in Port Said
Port Said also provides a more modern walk
To Port Fouad
through
its
After your encounter with history on land,
museums. El Nasr Museum for Modern Art
take a ferry to Port Fouad across the Suez
displays a variety of arts created by Egyptian
Canal. The city of Port Fouad, along with Port
artists. Another museum is the Port Said
Said, is a metropolitan area. When you reach
Military Museum. It displays artifacts of
your destination, be sure to enjoy the beaches,
modern wars, such as the Anglo-French War
horse drawn carriage rides -called hantour in
that took place in the mid 1950s.The National
Arabic- across the city and a view of the Port
Museum in Port Said features a larger
Fouad Grand Mosque.
Egypt’s
memory
lane
with
spectrum of history: the Pharaonic Period which includes mummies, Coptic and Islamic
Tips
history which includes coins, manuscripts and
The best time to visit these cities is during the
artifacts from the Khedival family.
summer. Just don’t forget your sunscreen. 13
SCRAPBOOK PAGE
Ancient city of Tanis
The Catholi
ic Church in Port Said
TRULY LOVE HISTORY By Aisha AbdelWahab With Port Said and Port Fouad being the stars of this month, this country proves, yet again, that it has a unique aura of its own, surrounding it in every sense of the word. The two sister cities do nothing but prove this. Since one stands on the African side and the other on the Asian side of the Suez Canal, it makes them the only other metropolitan area in the world to span over two continents, other than Istanbul.
Having its name chosen by an international committee, Port Said held the title of a true cosmopolitan city throughout the years because of the presence of several cultures, religions and, of course, nationalities. Its construction started on the 25th of April 1859 when the signal was given by Ferdinand de Lesseps to start work on the Suez Canal after he had received orders from Mohamed Said Cont.
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Above left: the statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps as it stood ’ushering’ ships into the Suez Canal. Above right: the statue as it stands today Below left: the lighthouse of Port Said in its early days. Below right: the lighthouse now, overtaken by the city
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Above: View of Port Fouad (bottom of photo) with Port Said in the distance Next page: A house in Port Fouad
Pasha, the Wali of Egypt and Sudan at the time, during the Ottoman rule of Egypt. A monumental bronze statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps was made by Emmanuel Frémiet, the French sculptor, also famous for his sculpture of Joan of Arc in Paris. For years, the statue ‘ushered’ ships into the Suez Canal. However, it was later removed from its base and placed in a small garden near a shipyard in Port Fouad. This is not the only monument existing from this era though. As the city started 18
developing, other constructions were erected to satisfy the growing population and the needs of the city itself. The lighthouse of Port Said is a great example as one of many original buildings still standing in this innovative city. The lighthouse was built by yet another French man, François Cognet in 1869 only one week prior to the inauguration of the Suez Canal. It was mainly built out of reinforced concrete for the lack of nearby stone quarries. Throughout the years, the
lighthouse lost its original purpose of guiding ships, as it has gradually been swallowed into the interior of the city. Today, it is registered as a national monument in Egypt. Named after King Fouad I of Egypt and Sudan, Port Fouad was designed by École des Beaux Arts in Paris -the School of Fine Arts in Paris- and founded on December 1926. As expected, the houses follow an antique French model. The city became mainly the home to several workers and functionaries of the Suez Canal. The two cities together thrived with a
multinational population and some of the buildings that stand till this day, such as the various Italian architectures and the old Arab Quarter, are a permanent stamp of this multinationality, keeping a memory of this era still fresh and alive. Although in most cities there are specific locations that reveal the city’s history, in both Port Said and Port Fouad the history lives within the city, through the houses, ports, markets and people. And this is, yet again, another fact that makes those cities and this country in general, unique in every sense.
TRULY LOVE SHOPPING By Aisha AbdelWahab
There is nothing better than being in a city that has so many different cultures or being in a city that can be viewed from several different perspectives because only one wouldn't do it justice. Having been born into a French cultured family, I, naturally, have a preference for the cities that remind me of this very culture. There is a definite 19th century French connection to Port Said and Port Fouad with MiddleEasternish vibes here and there, and a little everywhere. And best of all, you get to have the best of two different worlds within close proximity. Port Said is basically the city with all of the hustle and the bustle. For years, it was considered a duty free zone. And even though it lost that status officially a few years ago, it still functions as one. The difference between then and now is simple. When Port Said was officially a duty free zone, you could find anything you wanted at inexpensive prices and then on your way out of Port Said, you would be stopped at the customs gates and taxed on most of your purchases. Now you can still find anything you want but some of the prices already include customs tax and others are taxed at the gates depending on how many you have purchased; basically depending on whether the items are intended for personal or commercial use. Whether then or now, the fact that Port Said functions as a duty free zone can only mean one thing: lots and lots of shops. A shopaholic's haven! The commercial district is definitely the Cont. 20
first place to go. There you will find basically everything and anything you might think of. Are you daydreaming of a designer bag? It is right there and in six different colors. Are you looking for those killer shoes? They're calling you from that shop right across the street. Do you need some funky jewellery or a chic dress? They are right around the corner. But it doesn't end here! I wouldn’t leave you at a place where there aren’t numerous restaurants serving various cuisines. Whether you're into burgers or some Thai food, it is definitely there. If you're not really hungry now, then no problem at all, just have a drink at any café (I recommend some hot chocolate since winter has gracefully arrived) and then continue your shopping adventure throughout the city. But since food lovers need some extra pampering, if you still have an appetite and you are an absolute sea food lover, I recommend you go to Souq El-Baladia where you will find all sorts of fresh Mediterranean fish, all sold at reasonable prices. Going to a fish market may not, initially, sound very appealing but that perfectly grilled fillet or that shrimp cocktail is
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definitely worth the trip (and the smell!). And now you might be wondering what has happened to the twin city Port Fouad. Well, the answer is simple. Whilst Port Said is the one with the constant buzz, Port Fouad is the laid back sister. I personally recommend taking a walk or just admiring the beautifully constructed buildings after that hectic shopping trip as you may need some minutes of peace after those hours of deciding between the red or brown jacket, and the other hours spent on bargaining. But if there is still that little voice inside of you urging you to buy something, you will stumble on one of those cute little shops sprawled here and there. As I definitely love adventures and personal experiences, I gave you just the information you need as a quick start to your own shopping experience in the twin cities, the rest is up to you. This basically means I'll be waiting for your e-mail, and that I expect nothing less than those bags being filled with amazing stylish clothes. Quote of the month “Fashion fades, only style remains the same” - Coco Chanel
A café in Port Fouad
TRULY LOVE NIGHTLIFE By Heba Ghoneim
Port Said is one of the underrated yet the most amazing governorates in Egypt. The beauty of Egypt is that every governorate is different from the other. However, they all have a few things in common such as history, fantastic weather, hospitable folks, beautiful scenery, and my all time favorite “nightly activities�. Port Said has a special place in my heart, and I am sure when you walk on its corniche, and eat its rich Egyptian food, you will feel the same way.
Food= Fuel The first time I went to Port Said with my family, we pretty much strolled down the streets to spontaneously pick a restaurant to dine in. Thankfully, our impeccable senses lured us into the most delicious foul and taameya place. If you are not familiar with the words “foul and taameya”, you might be familiar with “beans and falafel”. Luckily, Port Said has other delectable restaurants that are to die for. First off, a floating boat on the corniche. Nothing is better than gently swaying while enjoying divine food. You can also look at the light reflecting on the blue sea, which never ceases to amaze me; it is such a breath taking moment. If you are more of a ground person, fear not! There are plenty of great
restaurants ashore. In Tarh EL Bahr Street you will find seafood restaurant chains. Fish, and any other marine life, is Port Said’s specialty. They have their very Port Said recipes for sea food. It might not be sushi, but it is definitely worth it. If, however, you are not a seafood lover, there is a well known hotel in Tarh El Bahr Street that has an international cuisine that will leave you flabbergasted in the best way possible. There is also a well known Italian restaurant in 23st July Street. Sometimes you just need to relax and eat a pizza, and that is why this restaurant is perfect! Let’s paint the town red! Now that you have had a fulfilling meal, you can go out and about in this lovely port. If you are a history buff and you feel like exploring Egypt’s Cont. 25
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history after the Pharoanic period, you can check out the military museum, and luckily, it is open 24 hours. This museum is located in 23 July Street. If you are not a history buff and you just want to shop, you will find a newly opened mall also in 23 July Street. It has everything you need. If, however, you want to buy anything at a relatively low price, then you will love Al Souq Al Togary. It is well known for its collection of chocolates, gums, and clothes. If you are in the mood to boogie, that well known hotel also has a good discotheque.
To the majestic corniche! At the end of the day you just want to relax and recharge your batteries. I don’t know a better place than the corniche. Listening to the waves, inhaling the fresh air, and letting your eyes encode the beautiful scenery in front of you is a blessing. Don’t forget to bring out your cameras, because it is definitely a picture perfect moment!
Wishes to the reader: We hope you have a delightful trip! Be sure to email us your experience! :D
TRULY LOVE INVESTING
By Amani Sarkiss
This section is dedicated to small and medium sized investors looking for possibilities to invest their money from afar or move to a country where sunshine, sea and relaxation are a way of life.
Ever since its establishment, Port Fouad has been relying on Port Said for most of its needs. However, with a growing population, it now requires the kinds of businesses and developments that will help it complete, as opposed to compete with, Port Said. 28
There are several business ideas that can easily draw people from Port Said, nearby Ismailia and Suez as well as people from other parts of the country to this quiet city. Entertainment venues such as a wellequipped open air cinema showing the latest 3D movies, a mega bowling alley/
rollerblading ring or a large scale amusement park would definitely do it. Port Fouad has plenty of land space for businesses that require it and people are always looking for new ways to be entertained. Investors who are interested in beach development will also find Port Fouad to be an almost blank canvas to paint whatever they so desire. There is plenty of beach space to use for this. There is also room for the medium to high end investors to construct beach front compounds either to sell, rent or manage as a hotel. Currently, the population of Port Fouad relies on the night life in Port Said. Opening a discotheque, an international cafĂŠ franchise or any such business catering for the night owls would be ideal for those who love the nightlife but the ferry trip back late at night is not their cup of tea. Another business idea that would bring customers from Port Said to Port Fouad for a change- is a restaurant serving a cuisine different to those found in Port Said. Occupants of both cities, just like most coastal towns elsewhere in the world, tend to thrive on seafood and have their very own secret recipes for them. However, the need to experiment with the unknown is a human trait that will not cease to exist. This kind of business would first need a thorough scan of Port Said to find out what cuisines are not available or likely to be available in the near future.
Regulations and Safety Issues 1. Do not drink tap water. 2. Always negotiate and agree on the fare before using taxis. 3. Customs officials at the Port Said gates hate being lied to. They’ll fine you if you do. Be honest and things will go smoothly. 4. Although there is no real reason for it, it’s safer to keep your passport at your hotel. 29
TRULY LOVE CUISINES
By Amal Sarkiss
Squid Tagen
Squid is a common seafood dish in coastal towns in Egypt, whether on the Mediterranean or the Red Sea. Tagens are traditional cooking vessels made of clay taken from the Nile River banks. The clay is cleaned and baked in special ovens. Some tagens are glazed. If you don’t have a tagen, Pyrex will suffice. If you love eating squid like me, you will appreciate this healthy way of cooking it as there is no frying involved. The tomatoes and green peppers in this dish also add to its rich vitamins and trace elements content. 30
Preparation time
Cooking Time
Serves
20 min
30 min
4
Ingredients: ½ kg (or 1lb) squid, cleaned & cut into small ½ cup chopped celery pieces or rings
½ cup chopped parsley
2 onions
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 lime
½ tsp cumin
3 medium sized tomatoes, chopped
1tsp salt
1 large green pepper, chopped
1 tbsp sunflower oil
Directions: Poach the squid in water with one onion cut in half and an unpeeled slice of lime. Let them simmer until the squid is half cooked. Drain the water and remove the onion and the slice of lime. Set aside. Dice one onion and braise it in oil with the crushed garlic until the onion softens. Add the chopped tomato and season with salt, black pepper and cumin. Then add the celery, parsley and green pepper. Add ½ cup of water. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes. Add the drained squid into the mix. Then pour everything into a deep tagen or a Pyrex dish. Cook in the oven for 30 minutes on medium heat.
Presentation: Serve hot with rice or bread and a green salad.
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