Must-Do's Northland 2022-23

bush

Tutukaka

the incredible

Welcome to

KAURI

AUCKLAND

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trademarks of

the colour

New Zealand Automobile

While every care has been taken in the compilation of this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for inaccuracies or changes since going to press, or for consequential loss arising from such changes or other inaccuracies, or any other loss direct or consequential arising in connection with information provided in the publication. Due to the COVID pandemic, we also advise you to check before you visit any establishment mentioned, as they may be in hibernation or offering limited services.

no requirement for advertisers in this guide to provide discounts for AA Members; some individual advertisers offer concessions and details of these are indicated in their listings. All content in advertisements was provided by advertisers.

rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced (except brief passages for the purpose of review), stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publishers.

AUCKLAND

AUCKLAND

WEST AUCKLAND SOUTH & EAST AUCKLAND LOWER & CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

October

VISITOR INFO

Useful information and valuable tips to help you on your travels around New Zealand.

BANKING Banks open Monday-Friday (except public holidays), 9.30am-4.30pm and Saturday and Sunday in some shopping malls. ATMs or cash points operate on a card/PIN number system. Most commonly used are debit or credit cards and payWave is often available; occasionally a fee is incurred for using credit cards or payWave services.

BUSINESS HOURS Businesses operate Monday-Friday, 8.30am-5pm; some tourist agencies and airlines have longer hours. Petrol stations often open 24 hours, stocking food and newspapers. Shops are usually open 9am-5.30pm Monday-Friday. Supermarkets, some large retail chains and shopping malls also operate Saturday and Sunday.

IMPORTANT NUMBERS

Emergency services

FREE CALL 111

Local operator 010

International operator 0170

NZ directory assistance 018

International directory assistance 0172

National direct dialling full area code (with the 0 prefix) and local number.

International direct dialling 00 followed by country code, area code & local number.

For incoming calls, New Zealand’s international code is 64.

AA CENTRES

For travel ideas,

• It is not obligatory to tip in New Zealand, including in restaurants and bars. However, if you wish to tip for good service, this is always welcome.

• All major credit cards can be used in New Zealand. International credit cards can be used, provided they have a four-digit pin number encoded.

• Accommodation providers’ arrival and departure times (check-in and checkout) are generally from 2pm on the day of arrival and by 10am on the day of departure. Other arrival and departure times must be by arrangement.

Goods and services are taxed at 15% and is included in the advertised price.

i-SITE VISITOR CENTRES

WHANGĀREI 92 Otaika Rd, Raumanga www.whangareinz.com

BAY OF ISLANDS

The Wharf, Marsden Rd, Paihia www.northlandnz.com

FAR NORTH (KAITĀIA)

Cnr Matthews Ave & South Rd, Kaitāia www.northlandnz.com

HOKIANGA 29 Hokianga Harbour Dr, Ōpononi www.northlandnz.com

SAFETY FIRST

Please don’t swim alone and take particular care at surf beaches. Rips are strong currents of water running out to sea; they are very dangerous for swimmers, but are difficult to identify. If the beach is patrolled by lifeguards, always swim between the red and yellow flags as they identify the safest area to swim.

WEATHER WATCH

It’s important to know what’s happening with the weather. New Zealand’s weather is changeable and unpredictable; parts of the country are susceptible to cyclones, other parts to strong winds and heavy rain. Sudden drops in temperature can take you from hot days to cold nights, especially in spring and autumn, so be prepared. Carry extra clothing, rain gear, sun hats and sun block.

Be conscious that New Zealand’s UV is very strong. Always protect your skin from the sun.

New Zealand’s official weather forecaster is MetService, available online, where you’ll find up-to-date information on localised areas, as well as specifically for marine and surf, mountains and parks. Local and national radio stations also regularly update weather predictions. Tune in on the car radio.

Temperatures – Northland

Look for the mark of Quality

Qualmark is New Zealand Tourism’s official mark of quality. When a business displays a Qualmark rating, you can be sure that the business has been independently assessed and has met strict quality standards. The Sustainable Tourism Business Awards (Gold, Silver or Bronze) also gives a guide to travellers to recognise the business’s performance against the Sustainable Tourism Business criterion.

CLENDON HOUSE

Visit the 1860s home of James and Jane Clendon. The couple feature at the heart of New Zealand’s emergence as a multi-cultural nation and their family story weaves through the history of early Aotearoa New Zealand. At Clendon House, follow the story of James, antipodean politics, and the growth of industry, or delve into Jane’s story of perseverance in the face of adversity after the death of her husband.

online

MĀNGUNGU MISSION

Established on the shores of the spectacular Hokianga Harbour in 1828 as a Wesleyan Mission station. The surviving home and surrounds were host to the largest signing of Te Tiriti o Waitangi, when over 70 Chiefs, before a crowd of 3000 people, added their assent on the 12th of February 1840. Explore the history of a home on the move, the 1830s mission house that travelled by sea and road and returned more than a century later.

is the Western Terminus point for the Twin Coast Cycle Trail. Please check online for opening hours, admission fees apply.

OKAIHAU RAILSTAY

Come stay with us

safe rural parking right next to the Twin Coast Cycle Trail – it directly across the road! An added bonus of local knowledge to help you with planning your cycling and sightseeing. We welcome your fur babies. We offer power, an awesome shower and toilet for an extra cost per head.

021 124 2237 – or just rock on up.

© Ruth Lawton Photography

This is a one, two, or more day’s ride from the beautiful Bay of Islands to picturesque Hokianga Harbour, or vice versa.

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail – one of the 22 Great Rides of New Zealand. The cycle trail stretches 87 km from Opua on the east coast, across the heartland to Horeke on the Hokianga Harbour on the west side.

The Cycle Trail tells the story of an emerging nation, capturing the history and heritage of both Māori and European activity and settlements. Story boards along the way bring life to the history and stories of local people.

The trail is open during daylight hours only, and the compacted shale surface is usable all year round.

ABOUT US

ABOUT US

TOP TRAIL HIRE AND TOURS

https://twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz/operator/top-trail-hire-and-tours/

MULLARKEY BIKE AND SHUTTLE

The Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail Charitable Trust manages the cycle trail on behalf of the Far North District Council. The Trust manages the daily operations, maintenance, marketing and promotion and future developments. The Trustees promote the use of the cycle trail to both visitors and local communities. The role of the trustees is to ensure the interests of the community and mana whenua are represented.

https://twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz/operator/mullarkey-bike-and-shuttle/

Wherever you are staying in Kerikeri/Haruru/Paihia/Opua or along the Trail, we will collect you and your bikes. Please call 0800 891 340 for a quote. 0800 891 340 • Email: sales@mullarkeybikeandshuttle.co.nz

TWIN COAST ADVENTURES

https://twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz/operator/twin-coast-adventures/

Please contact Paihia iSite for assistance with information and bookings and or book direct to our Trail bike Hire services below; 0800 474 830 or 09 402 7345

Please contact Paihia iSITE for assistance with information and bookings and or book direct to our Trail bike Hire services listed on the right.

Bike Hire + Shuttles

TWIN COAST ADVENTURES

Located in central Kaikohe, motel accommodation, bike hire and shuttles. 094012743 • 02102850247

SCAN HERE

Hire

Shuttles

Bike Hire + Shuttles

TWIN COAST ADVENTURES

TWIN COAST ADVENTURES

Located in central Kaikohe, motel accommodation, bike hire and shuttles. Base yourself

twincoastadventures.com

TOP TRAIL HIRE AND TOURS

Quality bike hire, E-bikes or standard trail bikes, shuttle transport with Top Trail hired bikes or BYO bikes.

TOP TRAIL HIRE AND TOURS

TOP TRAIL HIRE AND TOURS

39 Rankin Street Kaikohe 0405 Northland

0800 867 872 / 0274 535 176 Info@toptrail.co.nz toptrail.co.nz

TWIN COAST CYCLE TRANSPORT

Wherever you are staying along the Trail, we will collect you and your bikes. We also hire E-Bikes and mountain bikes.

TWIN COAST CYCLE TRANSPORT

TWIN COAST CYCLE TRANSPORT

2 Baffin Street Opua Marina Bay of Islands

0800 891 340 sales@nsebh.co.nz twincoastcycletransport.co.nz

LEGEND

HERE

Waipoua Forest To Dargaville

Hokianga Harbour OMAPERE

Manea footprints of kupe

WAIMAMAKU

KOHUKOHU RAWENE

tane mahuta

OPONONI

Mangungu Clendon House

Mission

Ranui

dRu .

Cycle trail Cycle transport i-SITE

Start/Finish point Vehicle ferry Petrol

S I M P LY A W E S O M E!

WHANGĀREI DISTRICT

Just a couple of hours north of Auckland, discover the Whangārei District with simply superb walks, beautiful beaches and picturesque waterfalls. Play outside in the wonderful natural environment; kayak, cycle and mountain bike, dive, snorkel, paddleboard, surf, fish, golf, zipline and go horse trekking.

Connect with our unique heritage on a special Māori cultural tour. Explore fantastic galleries showcasing unique works of art and craft.

Follow sculpture and street art trails and don’t miss the extraordinary Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Māori Art Gallery. Enjoy museums that hold our precious heritage stories and taonga. The fascinating Camera Obscura and Rolling Ball Clock will mesmerise.

Explore the city and Town Basin, Waipu, Ruakākā, Whangārei Heads and the Tutukākā Coast. See you soon!

Poor Knights

Otuihau - Whangārei Falls

Parihaka

Enjoy the TOWN BASIN

Wander this picturesque waterside destination in Whangārei city and enjoy the ever-changing scenery of an international yachting marina.

Relax at cafes and restaurants and art and craft galleries, and enjoy museums and boutique shopping along with

Burning Issues Gallery

P: +64 9 438 3108 www.burningissuesgallery.co.nz

Burning Issues Gallery has showcased the best of local and national artists for 25 years, with all of our work being 100% handmade in New Zealand. The high standard of work in the gallery is well recognised both within New Zealand and internationally. Open 7 days.

Mokaba Café

P: 09 438 7557 www.mokabacafe.co.nz

A delightful café with a wide range of tasty home-made food on their breakfast and lunch menus. Plenty of gluten-free options including cakes and counter food. Sheltered and covered indoor and outdoor dining overlooking boats and bridge. Licensed. Open 8am-5pm daily. Free WiFi.

Riverside Café

P: +64 9 430 0467 www.riversidecafe.co.nz

Delicious café menu, fabulous cabinet selection including many GF options & award-winning organic & fair trade coffee blend by Chiasso. Indoor/outdoor seating overlooking river & yacht marina. Fully licensed with quick, friendly service. Open 8am to 5pm daily – Free WiFi hotspot.

Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Māori Art Gallery

P: 09 430 4230 • hundertwasserartcentre.co.nz

Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Māori Art Gallery celebrates Friedensreich

Hundertwasser and contemporary Māori artists. Visitors will enjoy the unique architecture, exhibitions, a Restaurant-Café and a MuseumShop. Open 7 days, online booking recommended.

frequent markets, events and entertainment. Don’t miss the extraordinary Hundertwasser Art Centre. The kids will love the fantastic playgrounds and the Hātea Loop walkway which features sculpture and heritage trails, and the impressive Te Matau ā Pohe bridge.

Whangarei Coastal Commuter

Ph: 0-9-435 2532 (office) 021 901408 (mob)

Email: chris@coastalcommuter.co.nz Website: www.coastalcommuter.co.nz

We provide transport for individuals or groups to, from and around the Tutukaka Coast (our specialty), or between Whangarei and Auckland cities or airports at a time to suit. We are also available for functions, tours, trips and special occasions.

Whangarei Art Museum

P: 09 430 4240 www.whangareiartmuseum.co.nz

Free to visit. Northland’s public art gallery. Open 7 days 10am-4pm. The museum connects Northland with the world of art, presenting local, national and interna tional voices in powerful and provocative exhibitions. It hosts touring and internally curated exhibitions showcasing artistic excellence from Northland, New Zealand and beyond.

Claphams National Clock Museum

P: +64 9 438 3993 www.claphamsclocks.com

This world-famous museum is home to one of the largest collections of clocks in the southern hemisphere. Come face to face with these amazing timepieces, hear the unique chimes and cuckoos, and learn about time. An entertaining and educational experience for all ages. Free guided tours. Open daily!

Steve Haywood Master Jeweller

P: +64 9 438 2161 www.masterjeweller.co.nz

Made with Hand, Head and Heart, your home of Wearable Art, commissions accepted.

Town Basin

Discover

Enjoying the best of both worlds, this is a place that shines with sunny, busy towns and a modern, marina-based city, while also maintaining the happy-go-lucky vibes of a region soaking in sea, sun and sand.

Local Buzz

My kids love Pūtahi Park, splashing in the interactive water feature which is beautiful when lit up at night. A short walk along the waterfront is the Rolling Ball Clock, a mesmerising way to watch time pass. I recommend being there at 1pm when all the balls drop in spectacular fashion.

MEL WILLIAMS

NORTH

& EAST AUCKLAND

& CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND

that never endsThe summer

family activities are the

many a lasting

WALKS

Mangawhai Cliffs Walk

Above Mangawhai Heads; highlights include unique rock formations and the opportunity to see passing whales and sharks. 5km, 2-3hr return.

Waipu Coastal Trail

There are wonderful views out to the Hen and Chicken Islands and Whangārei Heads. 5.3km, 1.5hr return.

Hātea Loop

This loop for walkers and cyclists around Whangārei’s upper river goes through the Town Basin past sculptures and information about the area’s heritage. 4.2km, 1hr.

• Mangawhai Heads

A popular white-sand surf beach with standout sand dunes and a calm estuary for a more sedate experience.

• Langs Beach

Around the corner from busier Waipū. It’s popular for swimming, although it can be dangerous in poor conditions.

• Waipu Cove

Enjoy kilometres of golden sand with rolling surf, rock pools for fossicking and a beachside café for a bite to eat.

• Ruakākā Beach

One of the best surf beaches in Northland and patrolled by surf life savers. You can also swim and kayak here safely.

Bennetts, Mangawhai The small settlement on the river at Mangawhai (as opposed to Mangawhai Heads) is little more than a bend in the road, but it’s a frequently visited bend. Aficionados will recognise the name as the home of chocolatiers Bennetts of Mangawhai; its chocolate shop and café are always buzzing at weekends.

The Fudge Farm, Whangarei Town Basin

Craving something indulgent? Try one of the many unique fudge flavours, all crafted with care on site using full-cream dairy milk and real ingredients to achieve unforgettable flavour sensations.

Hātea River Walks

Following the river from Whangārei Town Basin to Whangārei Falls takes approximately 3hr one way, with shorter options to Mair Park and AH Reid Memorial Park.

Mt Manaia Track

This iconic peak is on the way to Whangārei Heads. The track involves a steady climb through regenerating native bush to the summit, where you ‘ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Whangārei Harbour.3.5km, 2-3hr return.

Te Whara Track

This Whangārei Heads hike treks through some of the best coastal forest in the North Island to the Te Whara summit, with views of Cape Brett to Cape Rodney, and on a clear day, the Hauraki Gulf Islands too. 7.5km, 5-6hr.

Smugglers Bay Loop Track

This beautiful 5km coastal hike that is near Whangārei has WWII gun emplacements and stunning views. Starting from Urquharts Bay car park, taking you around Busby Head to Smugglers Bay.

Mt Aubrey Shoreline Loop

Take a 30-minute drive from Whangārei to walk this 3.7km loop. It has plenty of stairs and some steep sections but the views and little coves for a quick dip make it worth the effort.

MANGAWHAI

Mangawhai Heads is a popular white-sand surf beach with a calm estuary, too. Walk to the top of the nearby sand dunes; they’re golden, rippled and rather impressive. Access is from Pacific Beach, off Back Swamp Road.

Mangawhai Village Markets: The main market is held every Saturday from 9am-1pm on Moir Street, whereas the Mangawhai Beach and Country Market opens on designated Sundays at the Mangawhai Domain – from Labour Weekend until Easter.

Shopping & Eating: Mangawhai’s township is blossoming with boutique stores and eateries. After a trip to Brewed As for coffee, or Gringas for Mexican food, hit the shops for beautiful homewares, clothing and surfwear. Bennetts Chocolatiers shop and café are simply unmissable.

MAZ The Mangawhai Activity Zone consists of a playground, sports fields, a skate park and pump track. A flying fox runs along the edge of native bush, which is also happens to be full of walks and bike tracks.

Mangawhai Museum A modern and delightful museum that celebrates life on the harbour from past to present; from building ships to building sandcastles.

Mangawhai Cliff Walk

From shoreline to the clifftops, this 9km walk (each way) offers remarkable views suitable for kids; allow 2-3 hours.

WELLSFORD WITH A MAIN STREET FLANKED WITH CAFÉS, DAIRIES AND SMALL SHOPS, IT’S THE PERFECT PLACE FOR PROVISIONS. THE SOUTH AFRICAN SHOP IS WORTH DUCKING INTO FOR BILTONG, CURIOS AND SWEETS YOU WON’T FIND IN THE SUPERMARKET.

PORT ALBERT VISIT ALBERTLAND HERITAGE MUSEUM FOR A MERE $5 ENTRY. DISCOVER AN ARRAY OF INTERESTING ARTEFACTS FROM THE EARLY EUROPEAN SETTLEMENT TO THE AREA AND AN EXTENSIVE PHOTO LIBRARY. AFTERWARDS HEAD TO THE GENERAL STORE FOR THEIR SCRUMPTIOUS FISH AND CHIPS.

The Little Town of Lights Inland and rural, by day Kaiwaka tempts those heading north to stop and enjoy its cafés and cheese shop. By night, it embraces its title as ‘the little town of lights’ and erupts into a spectacle of glowing signage.

Kaiwaka Cheese Shop It’s an unusual spot for a Dutch-style delicatessen, but an essential stop for travelling foodies.

Eutopia Art Café Easily the most unusual place you can sip a cuppa. This labyrinth café is a masterpiece of turrets and onion domes, creatively adorned, top-tobottom with sculptures, mosaic and stained-glass. And that’s all before the top-notch food and drink.

Mangawhai

Northland’s Only City Proud of its gleaming marina and wellpolished places to wine and dine, Whangārei is blessed with good looks and a sharp style. As a hub for international yachties and a pedestrianised city centre, you'll likely see more boats than cars.

Rolling Ball Clock, Whangārei

This unique, kinetic sculpture tells the time through its series of bowling balls rolling around tracks, banking corners, performing loops and riding elevators. Aim for a 1pm visit.

changing mix of homegrown talent and far-flung artwork. It's free to visit.

Kiwi North – Kiwi House, Museum & Heritage Park

WAIPU

& Art brochure with a map of the Street Prints Manaia Street Art Trail to follow.

BREAM BAY

The Pohe Island Bike Park

TUTUKĀKĀ COAST

Perfect for toddlers on balance bikes, mountain bikers young and old, e-bikers wanting to get their confidence up, and BMX and freestyle riders.

WHANGĀREI HEADS

Camera Obscura Timatatanga

Hou Overlooking the Te Matau ā Pohe Bascule Bridge, this camera obscura uses CCTV technology to connect with the world via the web. Art Trail Spot colourful artworks brightening up city spaces. Download the Whangārei Sculpture

MANGAWAI KAIWAKA WELLSFORD WHANGĀREI PATAUA HIKURANGI

Hātea Loop Walkway A fully accessible walkway for wheels as well as walkers (and pooches on leashes, too) this 4.2km path follows the Hātea River around Whangārei Town Basin. The route passes art galleries and glassblowing, Whangārei’s oldest house, Whangārei Art Museum, the city’s Te Matau a Pohe’ drawbridge and more.

Artisan Markets Based in the Town Basin Park and in front of the Hundertwasser Art Centre in the Town Basin, these bustling markets are crammed with crafts, art, tantalising food and live music. Every Saturday, after Labour Weekend during summer.

Claphams Clock Museum

A fine collection of time-pieces with guided tours that bring history to life in ways you never knew were possible via the humble clock.

Whangārei Art Museum Neat, compact and located on the water's edge, the city’s handsome museum showcases a diverse and ever-

DON’T MISS… The fabulously impressive Hundertwasser Art Centre, designed in the style of the late artist, is a celebration of his life and achievements. Sharing the same brightly-tiled building is Wairau Māori Art Gallery, the national home of contemporary Māori art.

A multi-faceted experience for the whole family. Spy kiwi and tuatara in the nocturnal house and delve into Northland's rich history.

Whangārei Native Bird & Recovery Centre Visit this award-winning centre for injured birds. Where possible, birds are nursed back to health, with more than 60 percent rehabilitated and successfully released.

Whangārei Quarry Gardens

A subtropical haven, freckled with sculptures and created by volunteers in a former stone quarry. Book a one-hour guided tour in an electric golf cart and then eat cake at Quail Café.

Botanica Whangārei With a fernery of natives housed in three shade houses, a small outdoor section, a room specialising in desert succulents and a conservatory housing beautiful floral displays, you’ll need some time to enjoy it in full.

ABOVE: Hundertwasser Art Centre and Wairau Māori Art Gallery © Northland Inc

LEFT: Claphams Clock Museum

© Whangārei District Council

Historic Waipu A bonny wee place with cafés, bars and art studios. The town’s early settlers came from Scotland and their influence can still be felt. Walking trails lead to historic sites such as McLeod’s house, church and blacksmiths.

Events Witness the Art n Tartan Wearable Arts Competition every winter, while the Waipu Highland Games are held New Year’s Day, with haggis and Scottish field games aplenty.

Kandiah Alpacas Farmstay guests are given exclusive access to visit this adorable flock.

The Waipu Museum Learn

WAIPU

BREAM BAY

how 940 Scottish settlers made Waipu their home in 1854. You’re guaranteed to learn a surprising story or two via a range of modern media exhibits.

McLeod’s Brewery Waipu The beer is brewed on site, the decor is distinctly Scottish and the pizza menu is worthy of an applause.

Horse Trekking Traverse native bushland, follow the pristine Uretiti coastline and frolic in the clear waters of Bream Bay on horseback Waipu Cove With mile-upon-mile of golden sand, rolling surf and rock pools, plus The Cove beachside eatery you’ll be set for the whole day here.

TUTUKĀKĀ COAST WHANGĀREI HEADS

Bream Bay includes the bay itself, as well as the surrounding communities of Waipu, Waipu Cove, Langs Beach, Ding Bay, Ruakākā, Marsden Cove, One Tree Point, Marsden Point and Takahiwai, many of which boast glorious white-sand beaches.

PATAUA HIKURANGI

Langs Beach Quieter than Waipu Beach, 5km to the north, Langs Beach is just as pretty and popular for swimming. Be careful if the conditions are poor.

Ruakākā Beach Long, white and silky soft, this beach is easy on the eye and a mecca for surfing, swimming, fishing and watersports. There’s also a popular campground, a children’s playground and those looking to gather shellfish will find plenty here.

Marsden Cove Drive 12 minutes north of Ruakākā Beach

Uretiti Beach DOC Campsite

An often deserted, picturesque DOC campsite in Waipu that hides behind the sand dunes. Stay for the surfing, fishing, swimming and horse rides on the beach.

Waipu Caves First explore the caves; a shadowy labyrinth of stalactites, stalagmites and glowworms, and then tag on an additional 2km (90 minutes return) walk across farmland and bush, weaving through a karst limestone landscape.

Piroa Falls In the Waipu Gorge Scenic Reserve, 13km inland from

to find Marsden Cove. Arguably Whangārei’s most desirable neighbourhood, spend time by the laid-back marine village to see why.

Ding Bay Always worth a visit, this bay is small, golden and it’s not uncommon to spy dolphins splashing about here.

One Tree Point Occupying the Southern Head of Whangārei Harbour, this slick coastal hub is all about R&R, with a dreamy whitesand beach and a 9-hole golf course.

Waipu township, follow a 200m track along Ahuroa River towards the falls. Various swimming holes are dotted along the river’s edge, making it a fun walk for children.

MORE:

• The Chocolate Barn

• Waipu Golf Course

• Coastal Walkway

• Pancake Rocks

• Markets

BELOW: Waipu Museum • LEFT: Waipu Coastal Walkway.

BOTH: © Whangārei District Council

HEADS

Scenic Peninsula This stunning 600ha peninsula is flanked on one side by the sheltered bays of the Whangārei Harbour and ocean coastline on the other. Between these beautiful bodies of water runs a spine of 20 million-year-old volcanic peaks.

Mt Manaia & Mt Lion Two of the Head’s most striking physical features, these ancient volcanoes mimic the shape of the islands offshore. Along the spine are the peaks of Mt Lion and Mt Manaia –well worth the steep climb for the spectacular views.

Smugglers Bay Loop Track

Wrestle between watching your footing and ogling at ocean views. Combining coastal forest, ship-shape scenery and WWII gun emplacements, spend 3km and

90 minutes in total awe.

The Good Life Salt in the air, sleepy seaside vibes and not a care in the world. The age-old recipe for living the good life never falters on the Tutukākā Coast. This is a playground for divers, a paradise for beach lovers and a non-stop riot for those with a boat in their toy box.

Whangārei Harbour

There are two protected marine areas here: Waikaraka and around Motukaroro Island. The latter is ideal for low tide explorations. Swimming in the harbour is great at high tide or you can stay dry and clamber to the top of Whangārei Heads for unparalleled harbour views.

Harbour Cruises One of the nicest ways to see Whangārei Harbour is from the bow of M.V. Waipapa, a small touring boat which treats its guests to a 90-minute harbour dalliance.

Ocean Beach The road to Ocean Beach may have transformed from a dirt track to tarseal over the years, but it remains

delightfully rough-hewn and isolated. There are no shops or cafés here, just good surf, good people, warm water and explorable rock pools.

Te Whara Track This is an excellent day hike with challenging, steep parts and several sets of

steps. Start at the Bream Bay Scenic Reserve and hike some of the best coastal forest in the North Island to Te Whara summit, with views of Cape Brett to Cape Rodney, and on a clear day, the Hauraki Gulf Islands too. 7.5km, 5-6hr.

Poor Knights Islands Walls, caves and wrecks – oh my! Dive or snorkel in this world-renowned marine reserve. Boat tours are plentiful and know exactly where to drop you for 60m drop-offs and the gem in Tutukākā’s crown: two sunken ex-navy vessels known as Twin Wrecks.

Tutukākā Marina The small yet lively Tutukākā Marina is a hub of restaurants, convenience stores, the local boat club and the main base for fishing and diving charters. Tutukākā Lighthouse Walkway If you love secret pockets of azure coastline and the rewarding puff of a steep hill, this one-hour walk is just for you. Make sure you set off one hour either side of low tide, otherwise you’ll get stranded on the causeway. Matapōuri Bay An irresistible expanse of white sand drenched in Kiwiana; of course there’s a dairy selling fish and chips and ice cream. Walk alongside the lapping waves or join the locals by hurling yourself off the bridge at high tide. Don’t forget to cross the dunes and follow the bush trail to a stunning secret(ish) cove called Whale Bay.

Whale Bay This little beauty always makes the ‘best secret beach’ lists. Navigate a 25-minute bush walk over from Matapōuri Bay and arrive at a lookout just before you drop into the cove, or walk 15 minutes from the carpark further up the road. Showcasing golden sand and sparkling blue water perfect for snorkelling.

Tāne Moana Walkway Hike through farmland and native forest to see the largest kauri tree remaining on the East Coast of New Zealand. With a whopping 11m circumference, you won’t miss it. Woolleys Bay and Sandy Bay All but three minutes apart (by car), you can spend a relaxed morning at Woolleys Bay, jumping its gentle waves and with the sand to yourself, before heading to popular Sandy Bay for gnarly surf and surf lessons with Tutukākā Surf School.

BayofIslands

WAIPU

ABOVE: Ocean Beach, Whangārei Heads

Whangārei District Council

LEFT: Poor Knights Islands

Destination Northland

BELOW: Beach at Pataua

REST & RELAX IN NGUNGURU

11

BREAM BAY

Adobe Stock

TOP: Cape Brett Lighthouse, Bay of Islands

Adobe Stock

SEA, SAND AND SERENITY, PRESS THE RESET BUTTON IN NGUNGURU, THE EASY-GOING ESTUARY VILLAGE FAVOURED FOR ITS WATERSPORTS. AMBLE ALONG THE WATERFRONT AND GRAB A BITE TO EAT, IMPROVE YOUR GAME AT THE GOLF COURSE OR TAKE A KAYAK ONTO THE LAGOON TO POKE AROUND THE MANGROVES AND SPOT SEABIRDS.

TUTUKĀKĀ COAST WHANGĀREI HEADS

MANGAWAI KAIWAKA WELLSFORD WHANGĀREI PATAUA

TOP TIP: Pataua North is separated from Pataua South by a scenic footbridge arching over the estuary.

Castaway Beach In north Pataua and also named The Dumping Beach because the waves put on an epic display for surfers.

Jumping Beach A strange phenomenon and a spectacle at high tide when a giant ledge of sand forms under the water on the estuary. You’ll need to jump, or you’ll go from knee deep to head depth in one alarming footstep.

1

MAP LEGEND

Secret Coast Route

Towns/points of interest

State Highway symbol

Start/finish

SECRET COAST ROUTE

THE SECRET COAST ROUTE snakes its way 54km between Helena Bay and Russell, offering a glorious alternative to the SH 1 out of Whangārei. Every bend in the road presents a fabulous view.

HELENA BAY / TE MIMIHA BAY Heading north on the Secret Coast Route, this is your first taste of coastal splendour. Stop for sheltered swimming.

MIMIWHANGATA COASTAL RESERVE It takes a bit of effort to drive the bumpy road here, but paradise awaits the plucky. Discover deserted white-sand beaches, an idyllic walk around the peninsula and the Waikahoa Bay DOC Campsite, accessible only by foot.

THE GALLERY HELENA BAY HILL

Primarily a home, this subtropical space has grown to encompass a higgledy-piggledy garden teeming with trinkets, an art gallery and café pitched

high above the valley floor. The views are sublime.

WHANGARURU HARBOUR This large and visually stunning harbour boasts several small communities freckling its shoreline.

WHANGARURU BEACH Home to Whangaruru Beachfront Camp on the shores of Parutahi Bay and sandwiched between Ōakura Bay and Ohawini Bay. In other words, you get three beaches in one.

ŌAKURA BAY Teal water tickles soft golden sand and holiday homes sit just inches from the beach. There’s a single dairy (such is the solitude here), decent surf waves and a rocky outcrop.

ELLIOT BAY Another corker just 30 minutes from Russell, this beach appears dramatically over the bluff and presents boisterous waves for surfers.

Whangaruru Beach

Te Rawhiti Inlet Ōakura Bay

Mimiwhangata Coastal Reserve

Russell Helena Bay/ Te Mimiha

Elliot Bay

Rawhiti To SH1/ Whakapara

Kawakawa

Opua The Gallery Helena Bay Hill

Cape Brett Lighthouse

Punaruku

Waro Limestone Lake A twominute detour off the SH 1. You’ll find picnic benches, a pontoon for jumping into the lake and the Yvonne Stewart Track littered with limestone boulders, that takes 30-minutes to walk.

Mount Hikurangi Not to be mistaken with its eastern namesake in Gisborne, this volcanic dome rises 365m out of the ground and is estimated to be 1.2 million years old. Hikurangi Museum This little museum is jam-packed with quirky artefacts and photo exhibits such as ‘Weddings Through the Ages’ from pioneering days to modern times.

Whananaki Village Home to the longest footbridge in the southern

hemisphere, this village sits halfway between Russell and Whangārei and is just 30 minutes north-east of Hikurangi. Divided into Whananaki North and South, both remote and peaceful spots rev up over the summer months.

Motutara Recreation Reserve

From Whananaki Village you can walk directly into the reserve. There’s a campground, coastal tracks and small secret beaches. Snorkel at Toki’s Beach or go fishing.

Whananaki Coastal Walkway

A three-hour coastal track to Sandy Bay. Detour to the Capitaine Bougainville Memorial, erected for the 16 people who lost their lives when the freight ship sank in 1975.

OUTER

Whangārei Falls Ten minutes from the city, these 26m-high falls are some of New Zealand’s most photographed. A 30-minute loop walk leads to two elevated viewing platforms as well as a picnic spot and swimming hole at its base.

Adventure Forest, Glenbervie If you have the kids on board, drive 13 minutes north of Whangārei City and you’ll find 12 tree-top obstacle courses ready to challenge the smaller members of your clan.

Parihaka Scenic Reserve & Mt Parihaka Your go-to for forest walks alongside the Hātea River and three tracks leading to the summit of Parihaka, a former volcano and once the site of the largest pā in Aotearoa. A 10-minute drive from Whangārei.

Kamo Wildcats Under new management, this sanctuary offers

guided tours and the chance to hand-feed these big cats.

Abbey Caves Proper shoes, a head torch and a some caving experience are required. Squeeze through small spaces, wade through water and stare at throngs of glowworms. A 10-minute drive from the CBD.

Parua Bay Old-world coastal village with a pretty, sheltered bay and just 22 minutes east of Whangārei. Spend a lazy afternoon at Parua Bay Tavern with its long grassy beer garden rolling into a sparkling basin of water. Packard Motor Museum

Located in Maungatāpere, 11km from Whangārei, this old dairy building is crammed with vintage Packard cars, motorbikes and a myriad of other antique treasures. A guided tour is highly recommended.

TOP: Whananaki Footbridge © Whangārei District Council

Discover the

WHĀNGAREI DISTRICT

BAY OF ISLANDS

It’s a sight for sore eyes and a multifaceted crowd-pleaser, with 144 islands and cobalt blue water ensuring ears are waterlogged by lunchtime. By mid-afternoon the history of Waitangi and Māori heritage will have impressed and when the sun sets the joyful energy of vibrant sea-fronting towns will prove infectious.

NORTH

&

It’s hard to beat the combination of lush walks in the bush, coastline views and the beautiful waters of the mainland and out on the islands, all benefiting from years of voluntary conservation work.

JOHNNY GREENER

& KAURI COAST

OF PLENTY

ROCK

CRUISE

Bay of IslandsThe awe-inspiring

Remember when you were small and you’d draw pictures of the seaside?

And it was all impossibly blue water bleeding into yellow sand and rolling green hills? Well, such an idyllic existence doesn’t solely exist in a child’s mind; it’s very real, very reachable and it’s called the Bay of Islands.

Once you’ve finished goggling at these startling vistas, you’ll be inspired to jump in. Quite literally. You’ll also find no issue pursuing paragliding and big-game fishing, snorkelling and sea kayaking. Divers are also spoilt, with mile

after mile of rocky seabeds and two noteworthy shipwrecks.

Take a cruise in the company of whales and dolphins, or sail to the world-famous ‘Hole in the Rock’ where your skipper will expertly navigate the wide vessel through a narrow gap.

Active types can walk to serene Rainbow Falls or kayak up the Waitangi River to the thunderous Haruru Falls, whereas history buffs will enjoy Russell, namely for its fascinating, salacious past and the ancient Duke of Marlborough Hotel with its delightful, seafronting pub.

BELOW: Buying fish from a local © Northland Tourism

RIGHT: Charter Boat, Bay of Islands

LOWER LEFT: Wine tasting, Marsden Estate, Kerikeri BOTH: © Northland Inc.

FROM THE WATER

It makes perfect sense to explore this area by boat.

Whether you launch from Ōpua, Paihia, Russell or Kerikeri, you’re bound to discover your own private piece of paradise.

SAILING. Options include halfday, full-day and overnight trips with vessels ranging from 20ft

yachts to traditional gaff-rigged schooners.

DIVE IN. Beds of plump scallops await divers and the fishing here is excellent.

THE CREAM TRIP. In1920 a launch service began running to the scattered islands to pick up cream from the dairy farms.

Kororipo

TO DO

RIDE THE TWIN COAST HIGHWAY Part of the New Zealand Cycle Trail network, crossing the country from West to East over an 87km track. Do a little or do the lot!

FLAGSTAFF HILL In the 19th century this important landmark saw the British raise the Union Jack on four different occasions, only for it to be removed by defiant Māori every time. The hill is now a circuit walk with panoramic views across the isles.

ŌPUA FOREST This easy 30-minute return walk reaches an elevated platform surrounded by kauri trees. The youngsters are just 25 years old, but their ancestors are over 400.

SWIM AT ONEROAA BAY You’ll find this bay (aka Long Beach) on the eastern side of Russell. A sheltered spot with gentle sloping entry into the calm waters make it a choice swimming spot for families with kids.

FERRY TO RUSSELL It’s not free but for $13 you can catch the 15-minute ferry to Russell. Observing picturesque islands en route is well worth the splurge.

HISTORY, ART & CULTURE

If you want to know more about Māori and European history in New Zealand, then you’re in the perfect place.

• Spend time at the Treaty House at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds – guided tours, cultural performances, Whare Wakai Café, Hangi & Concert

• Visit Russell, one of the country’s oldest European settlements and see the country’s oldest church, Christ Church,

built in 1836. Its walls are scarred by musket and cannonball fire. Also visit Pompallier Mission, constructed in 1842 to print Māori language books.

• Take a guided tour from Paihia to explore the historical significance of the area.

• Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi – a modern state-of-the-art, architecturally designed museum with interactive displays and taonga (treasures) on display is well worth spending time at.

TOP WALKS

• Rainbow Falls Walk Near Kerikeri, this 4km walk meanders through the bush, following the river to pay a visit to the pretty falls.

• Puketi Forest Walks

The Puketi and Omahuta forests offer a diverse range of walking and tramping opportunities.

AQUATIC PLAYGROUND

• Manginangina Kauri Walk 15min This easy loop walk (wheelchair accessible) can be reached from SH 10. The boardwalk’s interpretive panels provide information on the mature stand of kauri, swamp forest and associated vegetation.

• Marsden Cross Track 40min The Marsden Cross monument, commemorating the first sermon preached in New Zealand, is in Oihi Bay on the Purerua Peninsula.

Paddleboarding at Ōtehei Bay, Urupukapuka © Northland Tourism

KERIKERI RUSSELL WAITANGI LONG BEACH

WHANGARURU

Whangaruru Harbour This far-reaching harbour is a coastal paradise, favoured for its secluded bays and clear water. No wonder it’s popular with dolphin visitors, too and there are plenty of those; they visit regularly.

Seaside Staycations Peppered with relaxed campgrounds and laid-back shorefront communities, holidays in Whangaruru are quintessentially Kiwi. That’s partly because of the handful of charming Kiwi dairies; it’s always Tip Topo’clock in these parts.

ALTERNATIVE COAST ROUTE

Take the road less travelled on the Secret Coast Route, snaking 54km between Helena Bay and Russell. Every bend in the road presents a new curve of golden-delicious sand, and it doesn’t matter if it’s soaked in sun or drizzled in mist, the scenery is dramatic and spectacular.

Russell © Adobe Stock

Whangaruru Harbour © Whangārei District Council

PAIHIA

KAWAKAWA WHANGARURU

While the Bay of Islands is the quintessential summer destination, it’s rewarding in all seasons for those who appreciate peaceful, uncomplicated days surrounded by beauty.

Trundling right through the town of Kawakawa, you can ride the rails Friday to Sunday from Kawakawa’s historic 1911 train station.

Kawiti Glowworm Caves

Named after their caretakers, the Kawiti family, the Waiomio Glowworm Caves are cradled between rainforest and rocks. And where there be grottos, there be glowworms. Your tour journeys underground through caverns aglow with larvae.

KID

FRIENDLY

Coastal Kayakers, Paihia Tours depart daily and suits all levels, but especially novices. Explore the Waitangi Inlet on a Waterfall Tour and cruise through the enchanting mangrove forest, meet the local wildlife and be astounded by Haruru Waterfall.

Flying Kiwi Parasail, Paihia Lift off on a solo, tandem or triple parasail flight. On a clear day you may even see marine mammals visiting the bay from your bird’s eye view.

Rainbow Falls, Kerikeri

Just 8 minutes out of town, this short walk arrives at the awe-inspiring falls. Swim over and walk behind them for a magical bonus experience. Care needed as it can be slippery.

Ngāwhā Springs, Kaikohe These freshly renovated , hot mineral pools will have you wallowing the day away. Get there early as it is popular.

Hundertwasser Toilet Block

Celebrated Austrian artist, Friedensreich Hundertwasser made Kawakawa his second home in the 1970s. His unique creative design is evident in the town’s public toilets, located on the main street; the resulting kaleidoscope of colour and ceramics is well worth the stop. Hundertwasser Memorial Park Celebrating the life and achievements of Hundertwasser,

this bold hub of creativity encompasses a small museum, public artwork, workshops, library and community town square. It’s a wonderful collision of colour and mosaic.

Bay of Islands Vintage Railway

A spectacle for visitors and a mild cause of alarm for drivers, this vintage locomotive is the only working railway in Aotearoa that chugs down a State Highway.

Ruapekapeka Pā This pā, 20km southeast of Kawakawa is one of the largest and most complex in New Zealand; Ngāpuhi (Māori iwi/ tribe based in Northland) designed it specifically to counter the artillery fire of British forces and the earthworks can still be seen. Te Rito Marae Sitting on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail in Moerewa, 10km from Kawakawa. Overnight stays include authentic whakatau (welcome and storytelling) and home-cooked kai. Come evening, poi performance and haka lessons are entwined with Māori narrative.

Madhatters Donna Café, Kaeo It’s always time for tea at the Alice in Wonderland themed café. Tasty pies, fresh baking and excellent coffee will set you up for your next adventure.

ABOVE: Ngāwhā Springs, Kaikohe

Northland Inc.

Hundertwasser

Kawakawa

TOP TIP: Gettting from Russell to Paihia

Catch the 10-minute car ferry from Ōpua to Ōkiato, shortening the drive time between Paihia and Russell by 40 minutes. Ōpua’s lively marina is bustling with boaties and you can’t beat fresh fish and chips from The Old Store Takeaways.

Russell Minibus Tour A whistlestop, one-hour tour departing from the wharf. Zigzagging from streetto-street, up to Flagstaff Hill and over to Long Beach, discover every inch of Russell including a royal favourite Aotearoa view and a hotel with a $15,000 per night price tag.

ŌPUA

Christ Church This is New Zealand’s oldest surviving church, which is remarkable considering the mayhem it had to endure.

The church’s walls still show bullet holes from Russell’s slew of historic altercations.

Pompallier Mission House

During the 19th century this Catholic Mission printed various religious texts into Māori. Cradled in a blooming garden, a guided tour and heritage walk will reveal

HISTORICAL WAIMATE NORTH

New Zealand’s second oldest building, Te Waimate Mission House, was constructed in 1832 of Georgian design. It now preserves missionary, farming and architectural history, as well as stories of important early encounters between Māori and Europeans. It is reached from Kerikeri via one of New Zealand’s first roads.

KERIKERI RUSSELL WAITANGI LONG BEACH

ŌPUA Visit this sailing haven and take one of the many cruises that leave from the marina. The car ferry to Russell leaves from here.

its most striking features, including the old process of printing and bookbinding.

Duke of Marlborough

With the tag line ‘Refreshing Rascals and Reprobates since 1827’ how could you resist a stay, drink or meal at the iconic Duke of Marlborough Hotel? Fronting the esplanade with a regal interior and beautiful balustrade terrace overlooking the sea.

Flagstaff Hill Loop Walk

This walk wends its way through native bush to the top of the hill, where you can see the famous flagstaff that was chopped down four times by Māori in opposition to British rule. Soak up the views and stroll over to the centennial sundial.

Long Beach Over the brow from Russell, walk here in 20 minutes or drive in five. There’s a small, idyllic stretch of sand, a pop-up coffee cart and a scattering of esplanade car parks.

ŌPUA

Jim’s Walkway Local man Jim has been clearing and planting his own nature trail for decades. The public are welcome to traipse his route to Tapeka Point. A subtle sign indicating its existence can be spied just before you get to Long Beach.

Bee Hotels Jim, of Jim’s Walkway fame, is also the proprietor of a series of Bee Hotels. These transformed letterboxes now accommodate solitary bees that have shunned the usual beehive setup. Check them out on Jim’s Walkway.

BEACH

Island for a 90-minute sojourn. Cruises depart both Paihia and Russell.

Haruru Falls Just 5km west of Paihia, these falls cascade in a rare horseshoe shape. It’s a great place for a picnic and there’s an excellent walking track between the waterfall and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

Sullivans Beach You need to scramble across the rocks at the southern end of Paihia Beach at low tide to reach this sheltered spot.

sneak into private bays and try a host of activities such as snorkelling and water-skiing straight off the stern.

Thunder Trike Tours Let your hair down with a guided tour in a Kiwi-built V8 Chev Trike. Drive along the Paihia beachfront with your combined guide and driver. He’ll share the history of the area while winding past awesome scenery and places of interest.

Electric and Mountain Bike

Sailing Feel like part of the crew on these small group sailing expeditions, cruising around crystal lagoons, island hopping or settling in for a sundowner.

Hire Whether you’re after mountain bikes, e-bikes or kids’ bikes, for one hour or several, pop into Paihia Mountain Bikes, located on Bayly Road.

Hole in the Rock Cruise Sail by the Cape Brett Lighthouse and adjacent show stealer: Hole in the Rock, where your captain

KERIKERI RUSSELL WAITANGI

will navigate the vessel through a narrow grotto thrashed by the chop. Watch for seals and dolphins before landing on Urupukapuka

KAWAKAWA WHANGARURU

PAIHIA ŌPUA

If you’re a history buff, Paihia couldn’t be better placed. It’s 2km from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds where there’s much to marvel:

BEACH

Boat Charters Get a group together and explore the Bay of Islands by charter boat. From small and fun to large and luxurious,

Paihia Farmers’ Market This all-weather farmers’ market kicks off at 12.30pm on Paihia’s village green every Thursday, selling fresh, regional produce.

PAIHIA

Te Tii Waitangi Marae

Connected to Paihia via the onelane Waitangi Bridge, a sandy strip of beach sits just before the crossing and Te Tii Waitangi Marae is located on the foreshore of Tii Bay, looking straight across the water towards Russell.

WHANGARURU

Waitangi Mountain Bike Park

A fun-for-all playground with views as punchy as the downhill descents. Located 5km north of Paihia, there are almost 50km of varying trails with grades ranging from 2 to 5. There’s also a café, bike rental and shuttle service.

WAITANGI TREATY GROUNDS

The Treaty House This is where the original manuscript was drawn up. Visitors to the house ascend the same hill that 40 Māori chiefs climbed to sign the treaty.

Treaty Ground Flagstaff The commanding flagstaff, marking one of Aotearoa’s most significant events, stands before exceptional bay views.

Waka You simply can’t miss this enormous and intricately carved 35m-long ceremonial war canoe.

Cultural Performance As part of your visit to Waitangi Treaty Grounds you’ll be invited to partake in a cultural performance, opening with a traditional welcome standing before the marae and stepping inside for authentic kapa haka.

Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi A modern, architecturally designed museum with interactive displays, taonga and a small theatre that condenses key moments of Aotearoa’s history into short films.

TOP TIP: Also known as the lower marae, Te Tii Waitangi Marae is inherently linked to Te Whare Rūnanga (Carved Meeting House) on the upper grounds of the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and, come Waitangi Day, features in the festivities.

Te Rau Aroha Museum Detailing Māori commitment to the armed forces via innovative displays and poignant exhibits, this state-of-theart museum will induce full-body chills.

The Carving Studio Chat with one of the seriously-talented master carvers. Appreciate how Māori storytelling is expressed through these intricate designs and if you’re left wanting more, ask about carving workshops that are run periodically throughout the year.

ISLANDS IN THE Bay of Islands

ISLAND HOPPING CRUISES

Whether you choose to go for a half-day, full-day, sundowner cruise or overnight sojourn, see the best of the bay with a fully staffed cruise. Explore islands and heritage, gather your own fresh seafood and spend hours in the water.

URUPUKAPUKA ISLAND The largest of the Bay’s islands, accessible by boat from Paihia Wharf or Russell. Pack for swimming, snorkelling, walks ranging from 20 minutes to two-and-a-half hours and take your wallet for the beach café. A short nap in a beach-fronting beanbag isn’t a bad idea either.

SNORKELLING Motuarohia Island’s twin lagoons are flush with sea life, including the odd stingray if you’re lucky. Excellent snorkelling is also found off Army Bay on Moturua Island.

DEEP WATER COVE

SNORKELLING The Bay of Islands’ only no-fishing area is Maunganui Bay, also known as Deep Water Cove. Water clarity reaches 20m; an entire city of fish life exists in its boundary. Book a Bay of Islands snorkelling excursion departing Paihia or Russell.

ISLAND HOPPING BY KAYAK

You can visit at least three islands on a one to three-day

adventure. Hire a tandem kayak from Paihia and push off from Long Beach – it’s the closest mainland beach to the first island, Motuarohia Island.

GUIDED KAYAKING No need to go it alone. Join a Bay of Islands kayaking group for an afternoon of guided exploration to discover several outer motu, hidden caves and marine mammals.

CAMP ON URUPUKAPUKA

ISLAND Six separate DOC walks will keep you busy for days and you can stay at one of three shorefront DOC campsites.

WATER TAXIS Take away the energy required to see the islands by kayak and what do you have? A water taxi. One of the easiest, quickest ways to hop from isle to isle.

THE CREAM TRIP In the 1920s a service was established to facilitate the islands’ dairy farms, to drop off supplies and pick up fresh farm cream. Sightseers started going along for the ride and the trip subsequently became a daily commercial tour.

R. TUCKER THOMPSON

Experience the Bay of Islands the old-fashioned way with a cruise on the R. Tucker Thompson, a traditional gaffrigged schooner.

KERIKERI RUSSELL

The Old Packhouse Market

Kerikeri’s seemingly perennial warm weather lends itself to a bounty of fruit, macadamia nuts and veggies. Buy them fresh and in season at the Old Packhouse Market, every Saturday and Sunday from 8am. Makana Confections Chocolate Visit the Makana boutique chocolate factory to sample the works of master chocolatiers. Open daily from 9am to 5.30pm.

Kerikeri Mission Station Established in 1819, the Kerikeri Mission Station was one of the first places where Māori and Europeans lived together. It’s also home to the Stone Store and Kemp House.

Stone Store The Georgian-style Stone Store has worn many hats since its 1832 construction. It has acted as a local trading post for selling and buying, a library, army barracks, boys’ school and general store. Downstairs you can still buy goods reminiscent of those bought in the 19th century, while upstairs there’s a museum.

Mission House (also known as Kemp House) Shoes off for this one. Built in 1821, a guided tour of New Zealand’s oldest surviving building involves traipsing from room to room, and you don’t want to be the one that damages the original floorboards.

through the country’s oldest European buildings at Kerikeri’s Kororipo Heritage Park, a place where Māori and Europeans once lived side by side.

Te Ahurea A living village and interactive pā site nestled between Kororipo Pā, the Kerikeri Stone Store and Mission House. Representing life before Europeans arrived, visitors can take a self-guided tour and enter the Discoverers Garden to admire a diverse collection of Northlandspecific plants.

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail If you’re hungry to explore both New Zealand’s rolling green terrain and the stories of Māori settlement and European arrival, this 87km, two-day bike ride feeds both.

The Parrot Place Home to 300 exotic birds including a dancing

macaw, some of which are prone to perching on visitors’ arms, hands and shoulders.

Aroha Island Access to Aroha Island is via a causeway 11km from Kerikeri town centre. If you decide to stay over at this 12ha bird sanctuary, the kiwi-spotting night walk is excellent.

Charlie’s Rock There’s nothing more refreshing than jumping off the embankments at Charlie’s Rock swimming spot, accessed via a fiveminute walking track from Waipapa Landing.

Wharepuke Falls Walk 3.5km along the Kerikeri River Track, following the riverbank until you reach Wharepuke Falls and its peaceful swimming hole. Dry off and move on to Fairy Pools, just 10 minutes further and just as pic-perfect.

Bay of Islands Walks

ŌPUA FOREST: 30 MINUTES

RETURN This easy, short walk reaches an elevated platform surrounded by kauri trees. The youngsters are just 25 years old, but their ancestors are aged over 400.

CAPE BRETT TRACK –8 HOURS, ONE WAY Not for the faint hearted, this elevated 16km tramp may be on the hard side but thankfully there are plenty of heavenly bays to drop into. Allocating two days is advisable, with an overnight stop at the striking DOC hut.

KERIKERI RIVER TRAIL –

1.5HOURS An easy walking track with kids and a great diversion when visiting Kemp House. 3.5km one way, following the bend of the Kerikeri River.

BAY OF ISLANDS COASTAL

WALKWAY – APPROX. 5.5 HOURS This full circle walk from Paihia to Russell includes two ferry crossings. There are various access points to start and finish your journey.

PUKETI FOREST WALKS –10 MINUTES TO 5 HOURS

The Puketi and Omahuta forests offer a diverse range of walking opportunities

with many pathways suitable for children. Most tracks are classed as easy but for something with gusto, try the two-hour Pukatea Ridge Track or the two-day Waipapa River Track.

TE RUAPEKAPEKA PĀ –

30-MINUTE LOOP Five years after signing The Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, mounting discord between British colonial forces and northern Māori culminated in the battle of Ruapekapeka Pā. This looped route passes both the British position and the pā’s turrets and pits, dug by Māori to deflect British artillery.

MANGINANGINA KAURI WALK – 15 MINUTES RETURN

Winding through giant kauri trees, swamp forest and vegetation, the boardwalk accommodates buggies and wheelchairs. Find it by ducking off SH 10 for a 15-minute detour, 20km west of Kerikeri.

URUPUKAPUKA ISLAND

ARCHAEOLOGICAL WALK –5 HOURS Follows the outer edge of the island passing various archaeological features. Behind Indico Bay a short walk leads to a dam and wildlife hide.

TOP TIP: Perching dramatically beneath the Cape Brett lighthouse, the nearby DOC hut and campsite is $20pp a night and boasts one of the best views in New Zealand to wake up to.

Cape Brett © Adobe Stock

TE WAIMATE MISSION HOUSE

Boutique Chocolate Factory

Factory

of

the

Scooting up Aotearoa’s skinniest part takes visitors between two very different coastlines, past long swathes of beach, along wild and beautiful stretches to isolated seaside spots and buzzy little towns. Ample sunshine explains the mellow, easy-going mood up here.

The pure white silica of Rarawa Beach is like silken powder and the myriad ever-changing variety of shells is a delight. On your way, at Waipapakauri, you will see the War Memorial made from an aeroplane propeller and wing.

SARAH WALE TRAVEL WRITER

Top of the

North

THE FAR NORTH TAKES

Home to Cape Rēinga, the very tip of the top, it’s here a lighthouse sits and proudly watches the Pacific Ocean collide with the Tasman Sea. Nearby is where the spirits of deceased Māori leap into the waters to return to their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki.

The endless snow-white sands of Great Exhibition Bay are just north of Rarawa and almost always deserted. This is because there is no public road access; you’ll need to hike from Rarawa Beach, book a quad bike tour, or kayak. Your efforts will be rewarded with silicarich sand reminiscent of a Tahitian beach.

Up in the wild north you’ll find Ninety Mile Beach which is

actually 55 miles, but is a legitimate 100kmph highway. Most rental companies won’t permit beach driving but 4WD tours are numerous and you can catch a very cool coach tour from Kaitāia. At the top of this beachy motorway lies the giant sand dunes of Te Paki Stream. Rent a bodyboard and fly down the natural sand slides.

HISTORY & CULTURE

KERIKERI’S KEMP HOUSE (1821-22) AND THE STONE STORE (1832) ARE TWO OF NEW ZEALAND’S OLDEST BUILDINGS.

• NEARBY REWA’S VILLAGE, A REPLICA MĀORI FISHING VILLAGE, PROVIDES FASCINATING INSIGHT INTO PREEUROPEAN LIFE

• AT AHIPARA GUMFIELDS HISTORIC RESERVE, ADMIRE RELICS FROM THE REGION’S PROSPEROUS PAST.

Carrington Estate, Karikari

Stock

Taonga

carving

Giant sand dunes LEFT: The Stone Store and Kemp House

© Northland

• Te Werahi Beach Track From Cape Rēinga/Te Rerenga Wairua, this track follows the west coast down to Te Werahi Beach. 2km, 45min.

• Tapotupotu Bay to Cape Rēinga Starting at Tapotupotu Bay, this track offers wide views before descending into Sandy Bay and on to the Cape Rēinga Lighthouse. It’s popular for families camping at Tapotupotu. 5km, 3hr.

• Lake Ngatu Track Located in Lake Ngatu Recreational Reserve, this is an easy walk around Lake Ngatu, a freshwater dune lake popular with water sports enthusiasts, day visitors and locals. 1hr.

• Duke’s Noose Track (Kaiaraara Rocks) It may only be 1km but it is challenging and totally worth it for the epic views of the coastline and Whangaroa Harbour. 45mins each way.

LAND & SEA

A

notable chunk of the far north is still home to breathtaking kauri forest. These gigantic trees are native to New Zealand and famed for their colossal size. In many parts of the country kauri trees are hindered by an incurable disease called kauri dieback. However, some of the beasts standing here have been doing so for over 3000 years. Wait until you see the girth of their trunks; with diameters reaching over four metres you’ll feel pathetically small in their shadow.

Off the coast of Mātauri Bay, the sunken ship, Rainbow Warrior is now an excellent dive site packed with marine life. The vessel was controversially blown up in 1985 by French government agents wanting to stop campaigners protesting against nuclear testing in the Pacific. A definite must-see.

For energetic types there are plenty of options in this uncrowded, unspoiled neck of the woods. Take a hike to an isolated beach, or up to catch the sunset from a spot with all-day, far-reaching spectacular views.

MATAURI BAY WHANGAROA HARBOUR CAPE RĒINGA AHIPARA NINETY MILE BEACH KAITĀIA

HOUHORA

Kayak the Coastline Slice through the aqua-blue waters of Whangaroa Harbour on a guided or self-led kayak trip. Paddle through sea-sculpted arches, past hidden bays and secret swimming spots.

Wairakau Stream Track Seasoned trampers will enjoy this two-hour stomp along a challenging

mud track that also links to the Dukes Nose track. Return the same way or book a harbour water taxi.

Rent a Houseboat Both easy to organise and to operate on the Whangaroa Harbour, enjoy all the comforts of home with views that change with every shift in the rudder.

St Paul’s Rock Track Short, sharp and spectacular. March uphill for 750m and half-an-hour later you’ll be presented with panoramic harbour views. Especially rewarding at sunrise.

Harbour Cruises Take to the water with a harbour tour or fishing charter. Whangaroa Sport Fishing Club has a full list of available charter boats.

Yacht Sailings Like the idea of sunbathing on a million-dollar bow? Hire a yacht for the day from Whangaroa Yacht Charters or Snowcloud and live the highrolling lifestyle.

Dukes Nose (Kaiaraara Rocks)

Starting at Lane Cove Hut, climb 45 minutes through the bush. The last 50m is a near-vertical scramble, assisted by railings. At the top, every direction offers jaw-dropping sea views.

MATAURI BAY

Rainbow Warrior In 1985, the Greenpeace boat Rainbow Warrior was bombed by the French in response to opposition to nuclear testing. Later relocated to Matauri Bay, the wreck is now a marine eco-system and a world-class dive site.

HARBOUR

RĒINGA

Matauri Bay Beach Delightfully remote, with a white-sand beach and crystalline water. The campsite is seldom packed and thanks to a subtropical climate, the water is year-round temperate.

Kayak the Cavalli Islands Comprising seven pristine islets, the main island of Motukawanui is part of a nature reserve with walking tracks and a DOC hut. Book a multi-day guided adventure with local companies or rent a kayak to forge your own route.

White-sand Beaches Try

Coopers Beach, Taupō Bay or Tokerau Beach and don’t miss Cable Bay for its pink hued sand. Further afield are the twin beaches at Matai Bay, all suitable for swimming.

Mangōnui Fish Shop Applauded across the bay, it’s the combination of top-quality fish, sea views and the sound of waves that make this fish and chip experience such an exceptional one.

Butler Point Having developed the property over many decades, the proprietors of Butler Point, the Ferguson family, welcome visitors onto this 26ha estate to discover the macadamia nut orchard, whaling museum, 1847 Butler House (former residence of Captain William Butler), pā site and

grounds, recognised as a Garden of Significance.

Matthews Vintage Collection

Admire Win Matthews’ impressive collection of privately owned vintage cars, farm equipment and workshop tools. A trove of gleaming restoration success, the entry prices ($10 for adults and $5 for kids) are easy on the wallet, too.

Coca Cola Lake (Rotopokaka Lake) So called for its rusty-brown, Coke-coloured water. An 18-minute coastal drive from Doubtless Bay presents a unique lake tinged by peat and tannins. Follow swimming safety updates; seasonal algae can sometimes prevent swimming.

Taipa Bay A quiet, white sand bay with gently rolling surf.

Whangaroa Harbour © Alistair Guthrie

BELOW LEFT: Whangaroa Harbour © Northland Inc.

RIGHT: Matauri Bay © Maui Spirit

Ice cream stop in Mangōnui © Northland Inc.

BAY

BAY

HARBOUR CAPE RĒINGA

Cape Rēinga Lighthouse This iconic lighthouse sits at the end of a short and buggy-friendly 300m pathway, absorbing far-reaching coastal views and the curves of Spirits Bay. The latter is sacred to Māori as it’s here the spirits of the dead depart for the underworld.

Where Two Oceans Collide

can tackle individual track sections ranging from 45 minutes to several hours.

MILE BEACH KAITĀIA

From the bluff at Cape Rēinga Lighthouse, see the Pacific Ocean meet the Tasman Sea.

Kapowairua (Spirits Bay)

Campsite Having viewed this bay from the Cape Rēinga Lighthouse walk, enjoy its golden sands and serenity at the scenic DOC campsite.

DOUBTLESS BAY MATAURI BAY

Te Paki Coastal Track Trace Cape Rēinga coastline from Kapowairua to 90 Mile Beach and Ahipara over three to four days and 48km. Those with less time

Tapotupotu Beach Camping Arguably the best location for New Zealand's nicest sunrise AND sunset. This is no-frills camping that’s off-the-beaten track. A small, nearby water channel provides campers with their own lazy river.

RĒINGA

HARBOUR

Quads on the Beach For ultimate freedom rent a quad and feel the salty wind whipping through your hair as you race along this beautiful stretch of beach.

Kaitāia Golf Club Running parallel to the southern brinks of Ninety Mile Beach, the club

welcomes both members and Green Fee players.

Ahipara Gumfields Historic Reserve Admire relics from the area’s prosperous gum-digging past alongside the final hurrah of once thriving ancient kauri forests.

Ahipara Sand Dunes Great swathes of towering sand dunes are fun to climb and canter down. If you’re a speed demon with a boogie board, push off the edge and go like the wind.

The Tuatua Twist Ahipara is flush with shellfish. Master the ‘Tuatua

Twist’ by paddling the shallows at low tide and twisting your feet until the tell-tale edges of tuatua tickle your toes.

Te Whare Whiri Toi Gallery

Take a look at traditional flaxwoven art at this gallery, located inside Roma Marae. Open summer, Wednesday to Sunday; every now and then they run workshops, too.

Surf at Shipwreck Bay Drive seven minutes out of Ahipara for legendary left-hand breaks lauded by surfers across New Zealand. Surfboard hire is available in Ahipara.

RIGHT: Ahipara Gumfields Historic Reserve © NorthlandNZ

FAR RIGHT: Te Ahu, Kaitāia © David Kirkland BELOW: Ahipara beach © Adobe Stock

Te Ahu Home to the i-SITE visitor centre, library, cinema, café, auditorium and the Museum @ Te Ahu, learn all about the Far North’s varied history at this modern and interactive space.

Gumdiggers Park Experience a day in the life of a gum digger at a former Kauri Gumfield. Beneath

your feet lies a vast buried forest, complete with a partly exposed 100,000-year-old kauri tree.

The Kaitāia Walkway A full 90 minutes return. Weave through kauri groves and podocarp forest, tracing an old roadway and stream bridges. Once on the saddle, drink up the views of Diggers Valley.

DRIVE ON THE BEACH They exaggerated. Ninety Mile Beach is actually 55 miles, but it is a legitimate highway. Most rental companies won’t permit beach driving but 4WD tours are numerous and you can catch a very cool coach tour from Kaitāia. SAND SURFING When it comes to sand dunes, the drifts at Te Paki are whoppers. Standing 150m high at the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach, there are rentable boogie boards on site.

CAPE RĒINGA

THE SNAPPER BONANZA SURFCASTING COMPETITION

It’s no secret the Far North is home to monster snapper. Taking place every March, this fishing competition runs for five days on Ninety Mile Beach. Prizes for the heaviest snapper reach $30,000 so get your rod out!

NINETY MILE BEACH KAITĀIA HOUHORA

Rarawa Beach Travel 15 minutes north of Houhora for sugary soft white sand that squeaks between your toes.

Just 4km off the main road for day trippers and next to a campsite for overnight dwellers.

Look for the war memorial at Waipapakauri, made from an aeroplane wing and propeller.

Pukenui Pacific Houhora is officially called Pukenui Village and its namesake café and restaurant fronts the harbour. Sit on their veranda and watch the wharf’s daily goings-on.

Epic fishing charters Snapper and kingfish are colossal here so charter a boat and dangle your rod.

Great Exhibition Bay Paradise exists but with no beach access, a little effort is required to reach its snow-white

sand. Hike from Rarawa Beach, quad bike, join a horse trek, book a 4WD tour or kayak from Parengarenga Harbour.

Swim at Houhora Heads The coldest winter day barely dips below 16°C so get your togs on. Walks in Arethusa Reserve

Just 10 minutes out of town, discover a shallow basin of water and wetland. A wide track grazes the perimeter and is teeming with bird life.

Ōtaipango / Henderson Bay Travel 10 minutes north to the coast. This beach is a top spot for rock pools, snorkelling and sheltered swimming.

Animal Encounters Houhora Harbour is a popular breeding ground for stingrays and it’s not uncommon to see dolphins, orca, dotterel and albatross.

Ninety Mile Beach © Adobe Stock

LEFT: Cape Rēinga © David Kirkland

Kauri Coast & Kaipara Hokianga

More than 1000 years ago, Kupe and his people were the first to arrive in New Zealand, landing at beautiful Hokianga Harbour. There is a lot of European history here, too: the first Catholic mass was held at Motuti in 1838.

Along the waterfront are the historic towns of Ōpononi, Ōmāpere, Rāwene, Kohukohu and Hōreke. The beautiful twin

settlements of Ōmāpere and Ōpononi are famous for the huge sand dunes that dominate the horizon. From Rāwene, catch the car ferry to charming Kohukohu. Visit the Mission House in Hōreke, built for Wesleyan Reverend Nathaniel Turner in 1838 with views over the harbour.

Heading south down the west coast takes you through more extraordinary pockets of Northland. Again, history is rich and potent here, with kauri featuring large in more ways than one. You’ll pass the many inlets and tributaries of New Zealand’s largest harbour, the Kaipara; a stop in Dargaville will provide the opportunity to learn the impact this harbour had on the region. Matakohe, at the southern end of this journey, is another essential stop to allow time for.

COAST

There are only a few pockets of kauri left now. Northland was built on the milling of the valuable timber and the digging of the gum for varnish in the 19th century. Magnificent kauri still rule in Waipōua Forest north of Dargaville and, closer to the town, in Trounson Kauri Park. Having met kauri face to face, head to Matakohe Kauri Museum to learn the history of this incredible and impressive tree.

Hokianga estuary © Adobe Stock

View over Ōmāpere © Adobe Stock

Tāne Mahuta © Northland

VISIONS

MATAKOHE Built on the banks of the Matakohe River, this settlement is probably best known for its excellent museum dedicated to the history of kauri. It tells stories of the pioneer settlers of the area through the theme of kauri, with high-quality displays and elements of surprise that create an exceptionally fun experience for visitors of all ages.

DARGAVILLE MUSEUM

Overlooking the township with views across the Northern Wairoa River, the Dargaville Museum Te Whare Taonga o Tunatahi is

a genuine treasure trove of the region’s history. From around 1880 to early 1900, Dargaville was the country’s busiest port so, along with kauri industry history, there is a wealth of marine history here.

KAIPARA HARBOUR This shallow harbour is, surprisingly, one of the largest in the world, with over 400 square kilometres exposed at low tide. Its heyday was during the kauri boom. These days, it’s home to kayaks, fishing charters, bird watching and cruises between Dargaville and Helensville.

CLENDON HOUSE This charming home in Rāwene was built for Captain James Clendon, the Chairman of New Zealand’s first bank and the first United States Consul in this country. Now owned by Heritage New Zealand and open to visitors, it provides fascinating insight into early colonial history.

ARAI TE URU RESERVE At the south head of the Hokianga Harbour with expansive views of the coast and across to the famous sand dunes is this hugely significant historic site. It marks the first

landing of Kupe, Māori settlement of the area and European influence. Remnants of the signal station which guided ships across the harbour entrance, which closed in 1951, can still be seen.

FOOTPRINTS OF KUPE Manea Tapuwae a Nuku is a dynamic, multisensory ‘museum’ near Ōpononi, brings the history and culture of the area to life.

Wairere Boulders Walking trails

built around these awesome rock formations vary from 40 minutes to three hours. It’s a 35-minute drive from Hokianga then a trek to the swimming hole or rent a kayak and paddle down the boulder stream back to Hokianga Harbour.

Heritage Track to South Head Lookout This 1km loop track near Ōmāpere on the south shore of Hokianga Harbour takes approximately 20 minutes – a short walk from Signal Station Road offering spectacular views of the Tasman Sea and the harbour.

Waipōua Coastal Walk Feel shipwrecked on this beautiful stretch of coastline near Kaikohe. An easy 6.5km out-and-back trail taking approximately 1hr 30min.

Waimamaku Coastal Track Located in Arai Te Uru Recreation Reserve, this breathtaking, 11.5km coastal walk has many empty beaches and a large river mouth. You’ll need to be mindful of the tides as some sections are covered when the tide comes in. Aim to head off in the morning and you’ll be back by mid-afternoon.

Kauri Museum, Matakohe © Adobe Stock

KOHUKOHU

Village Dallying Kohukohu was made for pottering. Cheery and picturesque, wander between heritage villas, the Masonic Lodge, Anglican Church and a delightfully aesthetic old school.

Village Arts Gallery Open Tuesday to Sunday, pop into this creative community art space. Nearby Geddes Gallery also welcomes visitors but it’s by appointment only.

Open Mic Night Kohukohu is home to a bevy of talented musicians with this monthly music night showcasing the best of them. Held at the local fire station.

Kohukohu Hotel, Pub and Café Great community-focused café pub open all day from breakfast, with outdoor seating overlooking the perennially striking Hokianga Harbour.

Treehouse Stays An unexpected surprise in the forest, The Tree House offers rustic hostel accommodation between the trees. A very peaceful place to disconnect.

The ferry between Kohukohu and Rāwene takes 15 minutes.

KOHUKOHU

Town of Firsts It may be the second oldest town in the country, but it was the first to debut New Zealand’s premier pub, first post office and even the nation’s first murder trial.

Hōreke Hotel Step inside New Zealand’s first pub. Jutting over the water on stilts, relax with a drink on the deck, surrounded by sun-streaked water and lazing shags.

Rangiahua A short drive down SH 1 and home to tidal marshes thriving with wildfowl and endangered swamp birds.

Twin Coast Cycle Trail Hōreke sits on the route of this popular one to two-day bike ride, making it the ideal pit stop

when hunger strikes, which is often on this lengthy 84km ride. Stretching from the Bay of Islands in the east to the western reaches of Hokianga Harbour, the track lives up to its name.

Māngungu Mission House

RĀWENE HŌREKE HOKIANGA ŌPONONI ŌM Ā PERE KAIHŪ DARGAVILLE MATAKOHE ŌPONONI & ŌM Ā PERE

Perched on a picturesque slope, the largest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi took place here. Inside, historic possessions remain, including a 200-yearold clock.

Wairere Boulders More than just formidable rock formations, visitors can explore the walking trails, jump in the swimming hole, hire a kayak, try the caravan café (weekends only) and camp overnight.

Heritage buildings As the third oldest European settlement in New Zealand, Rāwene has both coastal and historic charm. Highlights include Clendon House, Methodist Church and courthouse, all built in the 19th century.

Clendon House Built in the 1860s for Captain James Reddy Clendon, a ship owner, trader and witness to the Treaty of Waitangi. Left widowed in 1872, a penniless Jane Clendon found herself with eight children and huge debt but she kept everything together until her death in 1919.

The Wedge This wonderfully bright early-to-mid-century heritage building won the 2016 Resene

Commercial Exterior Award, thanks to its external splendour. Upstairs houses OH! Studio, a fashion store, while downstairs is the Simply Fun puzzle and game shop.

Simply FUN A must-see destination for any puzzle addict. Half shop and half museum, it’s run by passionate puzzlers. This one will captivate within seconds and see you leaving many hours later.

Boatshed Café Grab a bite on the deck at this water-fronting café. Easily one of the best views in the borough.

Hokianga Harbour Ferry The 15-minute car and passenger ferry reduces the drive-time between Rāwene and Kohukohu by a lot, plus it’s fun. Get your camera ready, the scenery is fantastic.

RĀWENE HŌREKE HOKIANGA ŌPONONI ŌM Ā PERE KAIHŪ

Vintage Boat Trips Sail on Hokianga Harbour with Ranui. This cute vessel dates back to 1945 but there’s plenty of go left in her yet. If you’re a cyclist, Ranui provides a connection to both

the Twin Coast Cycle Trail and the Far North Cycleway.

KOHUKOHU RĀWENE HŌREKE HOKIANGA

Dolphin Spotting Embark on the Arai Te Uru Heritage Walk and look out for dolphins at the southern head of Hokianga Harbour. It takes all of 10 minutes to get there, with an alternative route back.

Ngāwhā Springs A 40-minute drive east, natural thermal water

MATAKOHE ŌPONONI & ŌM Ā PERE

History seeps from every pore of the Hokianga, with memorials to the past, historic buildings, vintage boats and wharves and museums archiving the ancient stories on the origins of the region. It’s also in the landscape itself, in the hills, the coastline and the harbour mouth, with the sense that ancestors have left their mark here. bubbles from the earth into 16 rustic geothermal pools. Following a $4.3 million refurb in 2020, there are now an additional eight private pools. Adult prices start from $34 with reduced fees for Northland residents.

The Heads, Hokianga Looking directly into the mouth of Hokianga Harbour, this establishment is splendid for a sundowner. Sit on the restaurant’s charming deck and watch the sun slide into the Tasman Sea.

& ŌM Ā PERE

Ōpononi Sand Dunes Sitting on the northern side of the Hokianga Harbour. There are two ways to reach the dunes; boat is most popular (and if you book with Hokianga Express Charters, the driver loans his boogie boards for free) and you can also drive 15km

along the beach from Mitimiti.

Manea Footprints of Kupe Cultural Centre A knockout experience detailing the story of Kupe’s arrival in New Zealand via 75 minutes of multi-sensory splendour. Enjoy live performance

and narration, 4D films, art, taonga and digital wizardry.

Rock Pool Swimming At the end of the Waimamaku Beach Road, a 10-minute drive from Ōmāpere, there are large rock pools big enough to bathe in.

Opo the dolphin In the 1950s, this slinky-finned chap was a local hero, often giving the kids a free ride on his back. A statue now stands in his honour in Ōpononi.

Ōpononi Beach Takeaways

Outrageously good fish, chips and toasties, made even better by the sea-meets-dune views.

Koutu Boulders The North Island’s answer to Otago’s Moeraki Boulders, these giant, round behemoths are equally mesmerising and at 10 foot –even bigger! Three minutes from Ōpononi.

Waiotemarama Waterfall Walk

Follow the Waiotemarama Stream for 15 minutes to a tranquil, threetiered waterfall. For a longer walk, continue along the forested Loop Track for two-and-a-half hours.

LEFT: Koutu Boulders © Adobe Stock

ABOVE: Opo dolphin, Ōpononi

© Northland Inc.

TOP LEFT: Ngāwhā Springs, Kaikohe

© Northland Inc.

OPPOSITE, TOP, BOTH: Waipōua Forest

© Adobe Stock

Waipōua Forest Located on SH 12 between Dargaville and Ōmāpere, this forest is the domain of New Zealand’s largest living kauri tree, Tāne Mahuta, ‘Lord of the Forest’. And that he is. Standing 51.5 metres tall, it’s not the tree’s height that overwhelms, but the size of its staggering trunk. A whopping 13.77 metres in diameter, it would take eight or more fully grown adults to collectively hug this behemoth. As for the old chap’s age, that’s impressive, too – experts put it somewhere between 1200 and 2000 years.

Please help protect our kauri trees from incurable Kauri Dieback Disease by keeping to the tracks, staying on the boardwalks and off kauri roots and cleaning your gear before and after visiting. For more info and the latest track updates, visit www.doc.govt.nz

KOHUKOHU RĀWENE HŌREKE HOKIANGA ŌPONONI ŌM Ā PERE KAIHŪ DARGAVILLE MATAKOHE ŌPONONI & ŌM Ā PERE

Nelson’s Kaihū Kauri The gallery features many beautiful kauri items, a 30-ton ancient kauri log centrepiece and a fascinating showroom that’s often humming with up to 40 busy craftspeople.

Trounson National Park Stand before giants in this 586ha reserve, peppered with kauri trees. The Trounson Kauri Park Loop Track provides a 40-minute amble through the best of it.

River Tubing Kaihū River runs through the Kauri Coast TOP 10 Holiday Park, providing swimming holes and river trails. Hire tyre tubes from reception for lazy river rides around the park.

Footprints Waipōua Twilight Encounter Witness the forest come nightfall on this four-hour tour departing at 6pm (5pm in winter). Cast in spellbinding shadow, visit the 3000-year-old Te Matua Ngāhere kauri tree while your guide explains the forest’s great significance to Māori beliefs.

Twilight Tour with Footprints Waipōua

Northland

KAI IWI LAKES

Once you discover Kai Iwi Lakes you’ll find it hard to not be drawn back time and time again. The area is made up of three lakes: Taharoa being the largest, flanked by Waikere and Kai Iwi, all with tropical looking shorelines of ice-white sands and azure water. Away from the madding crowds you’ll spend time slipping seamlessly between leisure activities until your time is up.

Camping Promenade Point campgrounds is a quiet location with only non-powered sites and a toilet block. Pine Beach campground is the larger of the two sites with powered and non-powered sites, showers plus the camp office where you can buy ice and rent kayaks.

Biking Load up your bike rack as you won’t want to miss out on some of these serene trails running around the lake’s edge, perfect for new riders.

On the Water Cutting through the crystal waters on a paddleboard, canoe or kayak is simply heavenly here.

Bring your toys and fill your days windsurfing, water-skiing, rowing, fishing and sailing. Each body of water has varying rules and lake Kai Iwi allows only non-motorised vessels, while Taharoa has a swimming only bay.

Pōuto Peninsula The Pōuto Peninsula reaches into the Kaipara Harbour creating one of the sheltering arms of the harbour mouth. The township of Dargaville sits at the northern start point of the peninsula; you’ll find the retired lighthouse in its place of servitude, at the southernmost edge.

The Kaipara North Head lighthouse is one of only a small number of timber lighthouses remaining in New Zealand. Constructed in 1883-1884, it was erected to guide shipping across the treacherous

Kaipara bar. Despite its presence and in part due to the lack of landmarks on the peninsula from which to take bearings, there have been 113 recorded shipwrecks off the coast of Pōuto: the first being the Aurora, a 550-ton barque that perished in 1840.

Much of Pōuto (over 600ha) is covered by sand dunes making it one of the largest unmodified dune systems in New Zealand, with many towering over 100 metres above sea level and the highest reaching a staggering 214 metres.

TOP: Kai Iwi Lakes © Adobe Stock

Kai Iwi Lakes © Northland Inc.

Pōuto © Northland Inc.

Baylys Beach A 12-minute drive from Dargaville reveals New Zealand’s longest driveable beach. The more famous Ninety Mile Beach is 88km whereas this beauty is a full 100km. The powerful rips are better suited to surfers but walks along the golden cliffs and picnics in the dunes are heavenly.

Kaihū Tavern Fifteen minutes from Kai Iwi Lakes, discover a country pub. Enjoy good wholesome tucker, Kiwi humour and a handful of charming cats and dogs. Whether lost or stray, word has spread that The Kaihū takes in wayfarers.

Trounson Kauri Park This amazing Kauri Forest houses natives as old as 1200 years old. Hit the boardwalk for a 30-40 minute stroll through this pristine forest environment. Accessible for those

with limited mobility as paths are level and well maintained.

Dargaville Museum/Te Whare Taonga o Tunatahi Arguably one of the country’s best small museums. Marvel at the 16m waka, replica gum-diggers camp, shipwreck relics and the original ship masts from bombed boat, Rainbow Warrior – stationed outdoors before a glorious view.

The Woodturners Kauri Gallery Owner and master woodturner Rick Taylor creates and sells incredible kauri objects in his studio and adjoining gallery. Pop in for a gift, nosey and a yarn.

Dargaville Rail Tours Jump inside a converted golf cart and trundle along disused railway lines. There are two routes to pick from, ranging from two hours to eight.

Matakohe Kauri Museum

Thirty-five minutes south of Dargaville in Matakohe is this truly impressive museum. Take a peek into Northland’s pioneering past and learn how ancient kauri trees shaped both the people and the land. Well worth a few hours; plus there’s a café next door.

Two Charming Churches Explore the Coates Memorial Church built in 1950, honouring the country’s first elected Prime

Minister, Joseph Coates. While at the Kauri Museum, visit the tiny and beautifully preserved 150-yearold kauri Pioneer Church and heritage rose garden. Both open to the public and free to view.

Kaipara Harbour Famed for great fishing, keen anglers will want to drop a line off the wharf in one of the harbour settlements. While here, enjoy the nearby bush reserves and a handful of relaxing cafés.

Matakohe © Adobe Stock

Waitiki

Te

Far North

Ngataki

Houhora

Houhora

Pukenui

Whatuwhiwhi

Rangiputa

Rangaunu Harbour

Waipapakauri

Waipapakauri Beach

Ahipara

Herekino

Tokerau Beach

Aurere Hihi

Awanui

Taupo Bay

Tauranga Bay

Mangamuka

Kaeo Whangaroa Puketi Okaihau

Matauri Bay

Takou Bay

HaruruWaitangi

Puketona

Ohaeawai

1-9

10-99

Major Roads

Centre Railway

State Highway Shield

i-SITE Visitor Centre

Domestic Airport

Sites

Golf

Tramping

Te Araroa Trail

NZ Cycle Trail

Bay of Islands

WhangaruruKohukohu Mangungu Horeke

WaimamakuOmapere

Waipoua Forest

Opononi Kaitui

Kaihu

Hokianga & Kauri Coast

Twin Bridges

Pakotai

Whangarei District

Parakao Tangiteroria

Tangowahine

Baylys Beach

Te Kopuru

Glinks Gully

WHANGAREI

Puwera

Maungakaramea

Whananaki

Taheke Whananaki South

Matapouri

Oakura Whakapara Hikurangi Tutukaka Ngunguru

Maungatapere Mangapai

Parua Bay

Ruawai

Paparoa Tinopai

Pouto

Matakohe

Ocean Beach

Marsden Pt

Waipu

McLeod Bay Waipu Cove

Langs Beach Brynderwyn Kaiwaka

Maungaturoto

Te Hana

Akerama

Waima

Towai

Mataraua Opuawhanga

Whakapara

Whale Bay

Donnellys Crossing

Mamaranui

Maropiu

Baylys Beach

Ripiro Beach

MatapouriAwarua

Marua

Hikurangi PuruaNukutawhiti

Matarau

Waro Kauri

Ngararatunua Kamo

WHANGAREI

PatauaTitoki

Parakao

Whatitiri

Waiotama Tangiteroria

Kirikapuni

Maunu

Otaika

Oakleigh

Parua Bay

McLeod Bay Whangarei Heads

Marsden Bay

Ocean Beach

Tangowahine

Maungakaramea

Omana

Mangapai

Refinery

Uretiti Beach

Waiotira

Waipu Caves

Turiwiri

Mititai

Te Kopuru

Waipu

Bream Bay

Surf Beaches

Waipu Cove

Whangarei

Rehia

Naumai

Ruawai

Tokatoka Raupo Mapau Matakohe

Piroa Falls

Paparoa Huarau Maungaturoto Brynderwyn

Pukekaroro

Mangawhai Heads

Matakohe

Kaiwaka

Araroa