Must-Do's Cycling 2022-23

CYCLING Your FREE guide to: Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails

aatraveller.co.nz

FEATURING: • Route Descriptions • Maps • Safety Tips • Things to See and Do • Places to Stay

2022/23

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Cycling is a journey Cyclist Sam Dakin is a professional athlete, a New Zealand Champion and an Olympian, having represented Aotearoa at the Tokyo Olympics. He also co-chairs Cycling New Zealand Athletes Voice, a group that advocates for cycling; it would be fair to call him passionate about cycling. It’s no surprise that he’s a fan of the Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails.

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s a rider in Cycling New Zealand’s high performance programme, I spend much of my time in demanding training – whether it be in the gym, on the

velodrome or roads and attending to all the other aspects of life as a full-time professional athlete.

But when we are not training at home or abroad or competing around the world – as we now set our focus towards the 2024 Olympics in Paris – we share a common bond. That is our love of cycling. When I get time, I love nothing more than getting on my bike and exploring the amazing trails and off-road opportunities to get back in touch with the natural surrounds of this beautiful country.

We are blessed with an everexpanding network of trails that we can all share – whether you want some time out on your own, or want to enjoy an outing with

the whole family. And if you are a professional cyclist, a keen fitness fan or someone just wanting to stretch the legs, then riding the trails is something pretty much everyone can achieve and enjoy.

We all face ever-busy lives and pressures. I can’t think of a better way to take a breath and enjoy the company of family or friends than to go on a ride together.

See you on the trails!

TOP: Around the Mountains Cycle Trail © Great South LEFT: Sam Dakin BOTH: © Cycling New Zealand

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Ride all year round in the

WHANGĀREI DISTRICT Enjoy lovely scenic and waterside paths suitable for a leisurely ride with the kids, and a fantastic bike park with circuit and pump tracks. Then get into world-class beginner or extreme mountain biking with super machinebuilt and hand cut trails!

POHE ISLAND BIKE PARK

There’s something for all cyclists including an 800m circuit track, perfect for coaching road riders and para cyclists as well as being a great place to race the kids. Focus on road safety in the traffic skills and coaching area. The beginner bike skills track has ramps, see-saws and slalom poles. How many laps can you do on the world-class pump track without pedalling?! The park also links to the Shared Paths network creating multiple cycling routes around the city.

BMX

A NETWORK OF SHARED PATHS

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Whangārei city has a network of approximately 50kms of Shared Paths cyclists can enjoy. From Raumanga in the south, through the city, around the Hātea Loop, out to Onerahi or north to Kamo and Tikipunga.

The whole family will enjoy the BMX track at Pohe Island, Riverside Drive.

MOUNTAIN BIKING

The 2.5km Raumanga Shared Path connects to the city centre via Tarewa Park and then joins with the Kamo Shared Path which follows the rail corridor and connects to residential suburbs north of the city.

Then take a short ride along suburban streets and you’ll arrive at the picturesque Otuihau – Whangārei Falls.

The Hātea Loop – Huarahi o te Whai, is a 4.2km Shared Path which loops around the Hātea River crossing the impressive Te Matau ā Pohe bascule bridge which lifts daily at noon. This is a flat cycle ride with many interesting attractions along the way. The Hātea Loop also connects with the Onerahi Shared Path, the Waimahanga Network and Beach Road, Onerahi.

The Parihaka MTB Park is home to primarily Grade 3-5, flow and gravity-oriented trails and the Glenbervie MTB Trail offers 40km of hand cut trails ranging in grades and lengths. Connect with the passionate MTB community at WhangāreiMTB.nz and ride these trails soon!

NGUNGURU OLD COACH TRAIL Cycle the 16km scenic coach trail, closed in 1950, between historic Scow Landing and waterside Ngunguru village.

ADVENTURE PARK Just 10kms from the city centre, the adventure park has a wide range of easy to challenging riding tracks purpose-built for mountainbiking, ‘monster dirt scooters’ and ‘fat bikes’ which can be hired on site.

Hātea Loop

Heads Up Adventures

Glenbervie MTB Track

Pohe Island Bike Park

WhangareiNZ.com WhangareiLoveItHere 2

Whangarei.NZ

Welcome to

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails

© The New Zealand Automobile Association Incorporated 2022.

All rights reserved.

AA, the AA logo and the Tourism pictogram are registered trademarks and the colour combination YELLOW & BLACK are trademarks of The New Zealand Automobile Association Incorporated.

The AA acknowledges Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails for providing the trail information for this edition; © Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails.

While every care has been taken in the compilation of this guide, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for inaccuracies or changes since going to press, or for consequential loss arising from such changes or other inaccuracies, or any other loss direct or consequential arising in connection with information provided in the publication.

There is no requirement for advertisers in this guide to provide discounts for AA Members; some individual advertisers offer concessions and details of these are indicated in their listings. All content in advertisements was provided by advertisers. Due to the COVID pandemic, we also advise you to check before you visit any establishment mentioned, as they may be in hibernation or offering limited services.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced (except brief passages for the purpose of review), stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publishers/ individual copyright holders.

Published in November 2022

by AA Tourism Publishing Ltd Level 1, Building 2, 61 Constellation Drive, Mairangi Bay, North Shore, Auckland 0632 PO Box 101 001, North Shore, Auckland 0745 T. +64 9 966 8720 F. +64 9 966 8721 E. tourism.images@aa.co.nz W. www.aatraveller.co.nz

CYCLING MUST DO’S

contents

ISBN > 978-1-98-852381-1

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NORTH ISLAND MAP

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North Island Cycle Trails’ Contents

Kia ora from Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails

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Bikepacking in New Zealand

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SOUTH ISLAND MAP

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Plan your Ride

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South Island Cycle Trails’ Contents

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Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails for First Timers

NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

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On your Bike, New Zealand

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Safety on the Roads

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

Bridge to Nowhere, Mountains to Sea Trails © Visit Ruapehu ABOVE: Alps 2 Ocean, South Canterbury © Rachel Gillespie

PRINTED BY: Webstar, Auckland COVER IMAGE: Clutha Gold Trail © Central Otago Tourism

Advertising Enquiries: T. 09 966 8720 E. tourism.sales@aa.co.nz

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Far North Cycleway p.24

NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS Great Ride Heartland Ride

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail p.16

Kauri Coast Cycleway p.26

Kaipara Missing Link p.28

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Whakarewarewa Forest Loop p.38

Hauraki Rail Trail p.30

Waikato River Trails p.34 Motu Trails p.44

The Timber Trail p.51

Rere Falls Trail p.49

Forgotten World Highway Cycle Route p.59

Great Lake Trails p.54

Hawke’s Bay Trails p.61

Mountains to Sea Trails p.56

Manawatū Cycleway p.66

Remutaka Cycle Trail p.69

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NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

We’re not convinced there are enough adjectives in the dictionary to credit a North Island bike ride.

When in doubt, revert to an ‘ooh’ or an ‘ahh’ – the scenery is far too overwhelming to muster more.

What makes the North Island so utterly bewitching is its diverse terrain of tectonic wizardry and landscape that switches from beach to vineyard to lake to rainforest within a day’s travel. Geothermal hot spots, spurting geysers, volcanic peaks and green, gloriously aesthetic hills all inch into your peripheral, and no two square metres are (seemingly) the same.

There’s rarely a better vantage point for accessing all this magic than from your bike, so jump on, strap in and enjoy the ride.

TOP: Hauraki Rail Trail © The Coromandel RIGHT: Whakarewarewa Forest Loop, Rotorua © Legend Photography

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Welcome to the North Island

contents NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

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Mountains to Sea Trails

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Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail

38 Whakarewarewa Forest Loop

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orgotten World Highway F Cycle Route

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Far North Cycleway

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Motu Trails

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Hawke’s Bay Trails

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Kauri Coast Cycleway

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Rere Falls Trail

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Manawatū Cycleway

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Kaipara Missing Link

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The Timber Trail

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Remutaka Cycle Trail

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Hauraki Rail Trail

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Great Lake Trails

Waikato River Trails

NORTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS GRADE INDEX FAR NORTH CYCLEWAY FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY CYCLE ROUTE GREAT LAKE TRAILS HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS KAIPARA MISSING LINK KAURI COAST CYCLEWAY MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS MOTU TRAILS

TRAIL GRADE COLOUR KEY

POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

GRADE 1 (EASIEST)

REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

GRADE 2 (EASY)

RERE FALLS TRAIL

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

THE TIMBER TRAIL

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST LOOP

See page 11 for trail grade descriptions

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Queen Charlotte Track p.74

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

Coppermine Trail p.77

Great Ride Heartland Ride

Tasman’s Great Taste Trail p.79

The Old Ghost Road p.84

St James Cycle Trail p.100 Rainbow Trail p.98 West Coast Wilderness Trail p.88

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Molesworth Muster Trail p.96

Hurunui Trail p.104

Lake Dunstan Trail p.123 Little River Rail Trail p.108 The Queenstown Trail p.133 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail p.111

Otago Central Rail Trail p.118 Roxburgh Gorge Trail p.127

Clutha Gold Trail p.130

Around the Mountains Cycle Trail p.138

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Southland Traverse p.143

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS

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Molesworth Muster Trail

123 Lake Dunstan Trail

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Queen Charlotte Track

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Rainbow Trail

127 Roxburgh Gorge Trail

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Coppermine Trail (formerly Dun Mountain Trail)

100 St James Cycle Trail

130 Clutha Gold Trail

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Tasman’s Great Taste Trail

104 Hurunui Trail

133 The Queenstown Trail

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The Old Ghost Road

108 Little River Rail Trail

138 Around the Mountains Cycle Trail

88 West Coast Wilderness Trail

111 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail 118 Otago Central Rail Trail

143 Southland Traverse

SOUTH ISLAND CYCLE TRAILS GRADE INDEX ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL COPPERMINE TRAIL HURUNUI TRAIL MOLESWORTH MUSTER TRAIL LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL LITTLE RIVER RAIL TRAIL THE OLD GHOST ROAD OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL RAINBOW TRAIL ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL SOUTHLAND TRAVERSE ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Welcome to the South Island Get ready to apologise for how many times you say the word ‘wow’. It’s either that, or no words at all – the South Island is renown for rendering visitors speechless.

Somewhat a show-off, this part of New Zealand is prone to theatrics, distracting its guests with great displays of showstopping natural beauty and colours that pack a punch.

And yet, for all its razzle dazzle, the South Island is also pretty astute at keeping a secret. There are historic landmarks, cultural marvels and natural gems on this motu that few know about, less visit. Hop on a bike and you’ll get access to a whole bank of new experiences.

AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

CYCLING MUST DO’S

contents

TRAIL GRADE COLOUR KEY GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

Then there are all the common joys of a bike ride; the swoosh of bike tyres, fresh air filling your lungs and the sweet purity of nature working its magic. You have all the ingredients for an incredible, memorymaking journey.

GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

See page 11 for trail grade descriptions

TOP: Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough © MarlboroughNZ ABOVE INSET: Lake Dunstan Trail, Otago © Ross McKay

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On your Bike, New Zealand!

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails have been instrumental in developing a series of Great Rides and Heartland Rides that showcase the very best of New Zealand by bike.

• Enjoy the Great Outdoors • Explore Aotearoa’s diverse landscape, environment, culture and heritage • Get fit and stay healthy • Up your daily quota of fresh air • Have a holiday with a difference • Spread the economic benefits of cycle tourism

CYCLING MUST DO’S

TRAVEL GUIDES You’re looking at just one of 10 New Zealand Travel Guides from AA Traveller, lovingly curated by Kiwis for Kiwis. Get inspired, plan your trip and discover every hidden gem in Aotearoa. Pick up for FREE at nationwide AA Centres, i-SITES and selected accommodation providers.

JUMP ONLINE This guide can be downloaded at aatraveller.co.nz/travel-guides At the click of a button you can link directly to a property’s website to book accommodation.

Can’t scan? You can go online for more travel ideas here: https://bit.ly/cycling-mustdos

ABOVE: Otago Central Rail Cycle Trail © DunedinNZ INSET: Ohakune Old Coach Road, Mountains to Sea Trail © Visit Ruapehu

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Kia ora from Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails

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erving up plenty of fresh air, fun and sunshine alongside magnificent scenery and must-see sights, Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails offer rewarding cycle rides for all ages, abilities and interests.

There’s never been a better time to explore Aotearoa by bike. The boom in e-bikes is bringing even more people along for the ride, with family and friends enjoying inclusive trips that are also lowcarbon, naturally socially distanced and fantastic for health and fitness.

These cycle trails also offer endless

Alps 2 Ocean, South Canterbury © Rachel Gillespie

Riding adventures will get even more exciting for Kiwis in the coming years as new trails are built and connected to create longer touring routes across the country.

To stay up to date with news from around the trails, subscribe to the Great Rider newsletter, which also features inspiring stories from the people and places that make New Zealand cycling so special. Sign up and discover even more at www.nzcycletrail.com – official website of Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails. It has trail descriptions for all 23 Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand and many more, along with all you need to plan and enjoy your adventures.

Also find listings for the official partners, who are equally as passionate about the trails.

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails’ team

@nzcycletrail

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Known in Māori as Ngā Haerenga (The Journeys), these 23 Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand and connecting Ngā Haerenga Heartland Rides of New Zealand are as diverse as they are beautiful, offering an irresistible blend of striking natural wonders alongside rich culture and heritage, exciting activities, and delicious food and drink.

opportunities to visit new places, meet the people who live there, and support local businesses.

@nzcycletrail

www.nzcycletrail.com

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Lake Mangamahoe Coastal Walkway

CYCLING MUST DO’S

YOUR PERFECT RIDE IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER

From the maunga to the moana, Taranaki is humming with things to see and do. From the Forgotten World Highway to coastal cruises, there’s plenty of places to ride. Put Taranaki on your to-do-list now and be delighted by a region like no other.

Just around the corner taranaki.co.nz/visit

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AN INITIATIVE OF VENTURE TARANAKI

TRAIL GRADES

Plan your Ride

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) Off-road trail surface is either firm gravel or sealed and is wide enough for two people to cycle side by side for most of the way.

On-road trails generally follow quiet roads with little traffic.

GRADE 2 (EASY) Off-road trails are predictable and mostly flat with some gentle climbs. The surface is either firm gravel or sealed. The trail is wide enough for two people to cycle side by side at times. On-road trails generally follow quiet roads.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) Off-road trails can be narrow and may include hill climbs, steep drop-offs and small river crossings. The trail surface is mostly firm, but may include muddy or loose sections. There may be obstacles such as rocks to tree roots to avoid.

GRADE 5 (EXPERT) Off-road trails are likely to be challenging with long, steep climbs, precipitous descents and dangerous drop-offs as well as rocks, roots, ruts and potentially hazardous river crossings.

The graphs shown alongside each trail show the approximate split or proportion of each trail grade offered by that trail.

This example indicates the trail’s total length (187km) is made up of:

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails offer cycling experiences that will appeal to a wide range of interests and abilities. No matter what type of riding spins your wheels, it is important to take some time to prepare before heading out on your bike.

20% Grade 1 20% Grade 2 20% Grade 3 20% Grade 4 20% Grade 5

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails have adopted the New Zealand Mountain Safety Council’s Outdoor Safety Code, which can be applied across all types of outdoor activities, sports and recreation: 1. P lan your trip – seek local knowledge and plan the route you will take and the amount of time you can reasonably expect it to take.

2. T ell someone – let them know your plans so they can raise the alarm if you haven’t returned by a certain date. It is recommended that you don’t ride alone.

3. B e aware of the weather – New Zealand’s weather can be highly unpredictable. Always check the forecast before you head off and be prepared for weather changes.

4. K now your limits – your responsibility is to enjoy and maximise your riding experience, while reducing and minimising the risk.

5. T ake sufficient supplies – make sure you have enough water, food, clothing, equipment and emergency rations for the worst-case scenario.

GREAT RIDES

HEARTLAND RIDES

Predominantly off-road trails

On-road riding – mainly quiet back-country roads so there’s a mix of sealed and gravel roads

Showcases New Zealand’s unique landscape, environment, culture and heritage

Highlights rural scenery and farming, ie New Zealand’s heartland

ABOVE: Central Otago Rail Trail © James Jubb TOP: Queen Charlotte Track, Marlborough © Richard Briggs

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CYCLING MUST DO’S

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) Off-road trails are narrow with steep climbs and unavoidable obstacles. Poor traction in places. Walking may be required.

On-road trails have moderate vehicular traffic and possible gravel sections.

Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails for First Timers New to all this? Read the need-to-know essentials

EXPERIENCED CYCLISTS LOOKING FOR MORE ADVENTURE ARE TURNING TO BIKEPACKING – INDEPENDENT, MULTIDAY BIKE TRIPS INTO REMOTE PARTS OF THE COUNTRY. SEE PAGES 14 AND 15 FOR DETAILS ON WHAT, WHERE, HOW AND WHY.

CYCLING MUST DO’S WHAT ARE NGĀ HAERENGA NEW ZEALAND CYCLE TRAILS? Aotearoa’s stunning terrain lends itself to a bike ride. In 2009, Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails began to build a network of world-class cycle trails to provide a safe and sustainable way to explore the landscape. The premier trails were named Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand and have since grown to become the 23 Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand, varying from one day trips to multi-day experiences. Most routes are off-road and many follow old pathways forged by early explorers, hence the official Māori name – Ngā Haerenga, The Journeys.

THERE ARE ALSO NGĀ HAERENGA HEARTLAND RIDES OF NEW ZEALAND. WHAT ARE THESE? To complement the 23 Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand and to link to other trails, a series of on-road cycling routes, known as Ngā Haerenga Heartland Rides of New Zealand has also been created. They connect Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand to urban centres, transport hubs and key tourist attractions, predominantly following backcountry roads that steer clear of busy state highways.

DO I NEED TO BE FIT? Such is the diversity of the trails,

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there is a track to suit almost every age, ability and fitness. Use the coloured ‘trail grade’ to distinguish difficulty levels and for extra oomph look into riding an e-bike.

HOW DO I CARRY MY LUGGAGE? Cycling is such a popular activity many local companies have upped the ante to meet cyclists’ demands. There are now many luggage transfer services that will pick up your luggage every morning and drop it off at your next accommodation before you arrive.

CAN I CAMP? Yes. In which case, a couple of waterproof panniers are useful.

These bags hang either side of your bike frame and are more

comfortable than a backpack. Your accommodation can be as luxe or as rugged as you like. Motels, lodges, glamping, camping, cabins, chalets – you name it.

DO I NEED MY OWN BIKE? There’s no need – you can hire your wheels from a local cycle service provider. For ease and convenience, many companies will request your measurements in advance including your leg length so the right bike is ready and waiting for you on your arrival.

HOW DO I KNOW WHAT TYPE OF BIKE TO USE? This guide recommends the best style of bike for every trail, and staff at bike rentals are there to advise.

Many trails can also be undertaken on an e-bike.

HOW DO I GET BACK TO MY CAR? If the trail isn’t a circuit, local shuttle companies can be booked to transfer both you and your bike back to the starting point.

HOW DO I KNOW WHICH WAY TO GO? Keep hold of this guide. Every trail listed includes a detailed map. You can also download the Great Rides App which will also work offline if need be.

ABOVE: Cycling in Arrowtown © Destination Queenstown

TOHU WHENUA ARE PLACES AROUND NEW ZEALAND THAT MATTER TO KIWIS. RICH IN HISTORICAL OR CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE, VISITORS ARE PRESENTED WITH MEMORABLE EXPERIENCES AND AUTHENTIC INSIGHT INTO AOTEAROA. VISIT TOHUWHENUA.NZ FOR A FULL LIST OF TOHU WHENUA LOCATIONS.

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Napier Airport E s tu ary

Puketapu

Share the road safely is the AA’s message for cyclists and motorists

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Puketapu Loop

The AA urges road users, be they in vehicles or on bikes, to follow the tips

listed below to help keep to Taihape themselves and others safe on the roads.

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However, cycling infrastructure around New Zealand, particularly in our cities, is a developing asset and visitors from some countries will find it less advanced than they may be used to. This means that, at times, cyclists will be ‘mixing it’ with motorists on the roads.

Oingo Lake PLEASE NOTE: Sections of the trail on a busy road or State Highway Runanga Lake are indicated on the maps with a broken line and the above Roys Hill Reserve symbol. Please take extra care.

Otatara Pa

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ew Zealand is developing its reputation as a cycling nation. Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails has seen the government and local bodies invest in establishing a wide network for cyclists.

Safety on the Roads

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Be safe – ride to the conditions and follow the road rules. Cycle no more than two abreast and ride single file where visibility is an issue or traffic is busy.

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TIPS FOR PEOPLE IN CARS

TIPS FOR PEOPLE ON BIKES Ngatarawa Wines

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HASTINGS Stick to the road rules and Cellars help to be seen by having lights Triangle on your bike and50wearing brightly coloured or reflective Bridge Pa clothing.

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2

Double check for cyclists before turning or coming out of a park.

2

Use hand signals to indicate when you are turning or HAVELOCK NORT stopping.

Maraekakaho Road 50a

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Keep at least a 1.5m gap from someone on a bike.

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HASTINGS GOLF CLUB Ride in single file as much as possible, especially on narrow roads.

2 to Waipawa

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Be willing to slow down and drive behind a cyclist until there is space to pass them safely.

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If you have a tail of cars behind you, pull over and let them pass. A little consideration stops frustrations boiling over.

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Check for cyclists before opening your car door.

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In New Zealand it is compulsory to wear a helmet when you are cycling.

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Make a conscious effort to look out for cyclists.

Sileni Estate

MOVE. EXPLORE. CONNECT.

SMALL GROUPS

Get involved by joining one of our small group guided adventures and help celebrate our 30th anniversary FULLY SUPPORTED

Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail, West Coast Wilderness Trail, Otago Central Rail Trail, Lake Dunstan Trail, Around the Mountains Trail, Timber Trail, Twin Coast Trail and more.

info@adventuresouth.co.nz 0800 00 11 66 Brand new eBike fleet 13

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Member Benefit

Wa

BIKEPACKING IN NEW ZEALAND

CYCLING MUST DO’S

Bikepacking © Marek Piwnicki RIGHT: © Patrick Hendry

Bikepacking is pretty much cyclebackpacking; a freeing way to see the world, reconnecting with the great outdoors, travelling tracks and trails, carrying enough supplies to support yourself on your all-terrain ride.

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t’s not about perfection, it’s about getting out there, giving it a go and having lots of experiences along

the way.

Be kind to yourself. There are no prizes for roughing it and if you get a better night’s sleep because you had one night in a real bed along the way, or carried a blow-up pillow, then chances are you will be

a happier peddler for it.

One thing you can be sure of, preparation is essential.

A good idea is to start off with an overnight trip to see if you like it. You may well fall in love with bikepacking and can work up to tackling the ultimate adventures: Tour Aotearoa and Kopiko Aotearoa.

LESS IS BEST: Minimalist packing equates to better handling and manoeuvrability, meaning a happier rider and a less strained bike. The trick is to pack smart. Some items can do multiple jobs, while some you can simply do without. You’ll only be able to carry half that of a tramping trip, aim for 10kg.

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WHAT TO PACK WHERE BEHIND SEAT PACK Think of this as your night time bag. Heaviest items such as sleeping bags and sleep mats go at the bottom. Your towel, toiletries, thermal jacket, spare clothes and jandals go here, too.

UNDER SEAT POUCH Ideal for your first aid and tool kit, as they are quick to reach in an emergency.

FRAME PACK Best for heavy items, as this will centre the

weight load and help to stop the back end of the bike fishtailing as you ride. Water and food can be kept here.

HANDLEBAR BAG Think of this as your all-day bag. Keep your water bottle, camera, phone, rain jacket, toilet paper, sunscreen and day snacks here.

UNDER THE HANDLEBARS If camping, your lightweight tent can be strapped above the front wheel.

Carrying a water bladder on your back seems ideal but save yourself the body aches and carry water on the bike frame.

SLEEPING GEAR

Bike gloves with padded palms

A down sleeping bag packs up

offer relief and protect your

very small. Sleep mats are so

hands if you fall off your bike.

lightweight and small it’s not worth the discomfort of doing without. If you are camping, then a lightweight tent is essential. Single skin tents are lighter but suffer from condensation; double skin will offer more comfort but added weight. Check out Lanna solar

bandana to keep the sun out of your eyes and off your neck. Dip the buff into water on hot days to help cool you down and wear it around you head or neck at night for added warmth.

FOOD & WATER

solar-powered.

Dehyrated food is your friend.

Wear your bike shorts with padded undershorts – do not skip these!

Pack two short sleeved and one long sleeved merino top; cool in summer, warm in winter and can handle a lot of wears. Two pairs of merino socks and one pair of long A lightweight down jacket packs up small and doubles as a pillow, but will get cold if wet, so you will need

Anything you can just add water to is ideal and that includes milk powder for cereal and hot drinks.

Freeze-dried or dehydrated fruits are perfect add-ins, also trail mix and nuts. Syphon off items into ziplock bags to help keep packaging weight down. Aim to stock up along the way and not carry everything you need for the whole trip. Don’t forget a stove, lighter, fuel, cup, bowl and spork.

a rain jacket with a hood as well –

Water volume is very much

preferably one with sealed seams.

dependent on the trip you have

Shoes should be flexible and comfortable with a good tread, as you aren’t always going to be on your bike. Slides are great for evenings and better than jandals, as you can still wear your socks and they have thicker soles.

planned. If you know there are places to get some along the way, then carry enough for one day. If unsure, bring more and maybe consider water purification tablets so you can collect water in unpopulated areas.

SAFETY & HYGIENE A helmet, front and rear lights are essential and a headlamp (LED is best) with spare batteries, a phone with rechargeable battery pack, first aid kit with pain relief, antiseptic cream, hand sanitiser, sunscreen and insect repellent.

Take toilet paper in a ziplock bag, a quick dry towel (or sarong, also good as a sheet on a hot night).

Breaking a toothbrush in half saves on space!

TOOLS & BIKE BITS You need a small tool bag with two spare tubes, plus tyre lever and quality handpump. Add a puncture repair kit, spare brake pads, tyre boot, hex keys, chain breaker and spare chain link. Also pack a small bottle of lube, small fold-up knife with pliers, cable ties and duct tape.

MULTI-TOOLS Just take the full-size tools you really need. Multi-tools have smaller instruments and can be difficult to use in hard-to-reach places.

CO2 Adds to your weight, so just take a really goodquality hand-pump.

RACE SHOES Stiff and uncomfortable on long trips and no good for offbike time.

COTTON CLOTHES Cotton takes ages to dry and can start to smell. Go merino.

SINGLE USE PACKAGING Because you will have planned the trip, you’ll have time to prep and store your own snacks.

NEW UNTESTED PRODUCTS Take the things you use regularly and are comfortable using. It’s the worst time to find out you brought something you don’t need or like.

BIG BACKPACK Yes, it does mean you can carry more but the weight of it will travel straight to your seat, and you’ll really feel that. If you must have a backpack, make it small!

ALL OF YOUR FOOD It’s easy to worry that you’ll run out of food in the middle of nowhere and over-packing food is common. Unless you are really going into the wilderness, plan to buy your food en route. If it calms your fears then carry one extra meal as a backup.

LEFT & ABOVE: Bikepacking © Marek Piwnicki

15

CYCLING MUST DO’S

pants for night will keep you warm.

BIKE TRAILER You’re likely to fill it up making it unnecessarily heavy and there is more to go wrong eg extra tyres to worry about.

Pack sunglasses and a buff/

lights; they pack down flat and are

CLOTHING

DON’T BRING

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

BEST FOR: Delving into Northland’s history, which is rich in Māori culture.

BAY OF ISLANDS to HOKIANGA HARBOUR 2 days

87km

Twin Coast Cycle Trail © Ruth Lawton Photography BELOW © Twin Coast Cycle Trail

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail is an attractive cross-country journey from the Bay of Islands to Hokianga Harbour, serving up a tempting mix of relaxing riding with some seriously significant heritage sites and stories.

T

he 87km cycle trail is typically ridden over two days across a landscape of coastal, country and small-town sights with a subtropical climate for which the ‘winterless’ north is famous.

TOP TIP – There are numerous gates along the track to deter quad bikes.

Take just one pannier, bike basket or box for easier manoeuvring.

16

The trail travels through various cultural sites and attractions capturing the history and heritage of Māori and European activity and settlements. Bilingual story boards along the way bring life to the history and stories of local people, places and the natural environment.

It can be ridden from either direction or broken into smaller day trips allowing for time to enjoy other activities in the area which include historic sites and townships, bush walks, a soak in geothermal hot pools, with plenty of cafés along the trail to satisfy hungry visitors.

For new riders starting at Kaikohe ensures there are plenty of downhills both relaxing and highly rewarding. The trail is open during daylight hours only, and the compacted shale surface is ridable all year round.

SEE PP 24, 26 & 28 FOR CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDES

MAP LEGEND point of interest

car park

rail reinstatement

i-SITE Visitor Centre

accommodation

optional route

town

camping

charter transport boat start/finish point

café/restaurant

state highway

toilets

detour 500m on road

TRAIL INFO © AA Traveller 2022

TRAIL GRADES: 2 Days 87km

riding the trail Hōreke

TWO ROUTES BETWEEN ŌPUA AND KAWAKAWA: RAIL AND TRAIL INCLUSIVE 11KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) INLAND ŌPUA FOREST RD 16.2 KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) KAWAKAWA TO KAIKOHE 34KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) KAIKOHE TO ŌKAIHAU 14KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) ŌKAIHAU TO HŌREKE 28KM GRADE 2 (EASY) & GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good around larger towns and settlements but patchy between Kawakawa and Kaikohe, and Ōkaihau to Hōreke.

400m

28km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail... Ōkaihau

Kaikohe 14km

Kawakawa Ōpua 34km

11km

200m 0m

TWO ROUTES BETWEEN ŌPUA AND KAWAKAWA: RAIL AND TRAIL INCLUSIVE

the cycle trail is on a gradual incline to

dismount your bike and walk through it • A

Kaikohe across rolling farmland. Before

water ford close to Ōkaihau • Native bush,

you reach Kaikohe you will pass the

farmland, streams & lakes.

Suitable for young and inexperienced

Kaikohe Aerodrome built in 1942 as a

cyclists there is access through this

US Marines bomber base. Kaikohe is a

Ōkaihau, a small friendly township with

flat route as a mixture of cycling and

medium-sized township with rich Māori

great food before heading further west

riding the train alongside the Kawakawa

and European heritage. Kaikohe is the

taking on the exciting Grade 3 downhill

River and then re-joining the cycle trail

hometown of Ngāpuhi.

zigzags, along the Utakura River to Snow’s

into Kawakawa. There is no cyclist or

Trail Highlights: Suspension bridges at

Farm and picnic beside the river. Cycle

pedestrian access between Ake Ake and

Tuhipa • Rural scenery cycling through

through a rural setting passing marae

Taumarere Rail Station. To connect by train

forests and farms • The Pioneer Village

which should be respected as ‘private

via timetable. Refer to timetable https://

in Kaikohe – just 200m off the trail •

property’ and carry on to a harbourside

www.bayofislandsvintagerailway.org.nz/

Accommodation, shops, eateries and

1km boardwalk to Hōreke. The cycle

INLAND ŌPUA FOREST RD

activities • Newly upgraded Ngāwhā Hot

trail shares the road for a further 3km to

Mostly on-road requiring experience with

Springs – 6km from Kaikohe (off the trail).

Māngungu Mission House or make an

traffic will be needed. This inland route is

KAIKOHE TO ŌKAIHAU

ŌKAIHAU TO HŌREKE

advanced booking for the boat charter for

through the Ōpua Forest with kauri and

Climbing gently west of Kaikohe on a

a harbour crossing.

remnant stands of native bush.

disused railway corridor, the cycle trail

Trail Highlights: Panoramic views • Cycling

Trail Highlights: Ōpua – the maritime

climbs gently to the highest point at 280m

through the valley beside the Utakura

DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements; be sure to carry plenty on hot summer days.

centre of the Bay of Islands • Travelling

above sea level. You will pass through an

River • Snow’s picnic spot • 1100m

by train over Taumarere Long Bridge

80m curved rail tunnel built in 1915 before

boardwalk through the mangroves •

and Railway Station • DOC track to kauri

descending to Lake Ōmāpere. Despite

Māngungu Mission House – a must-do

• Scenic harbour vista views • Kawakawa

reaching the highest point on the cycle trail

photo stop! • Passenger & cycle transport/

TYPE OF BIKE: Can be ridden on a hybrid bike, although a mountain bike will ensure maximum comfort and safety, especially on the Grade 3 section from Ōkaihau to Hōreke. E-bikes are also permitted and available through most bike hire operators.

Te Hononga and Hundertwasser toilets •

– it is an easy grade 1 to 2 ride with ever-

scenic boat trip.

Home of the Vintage Railway

changing views of native bush, farmland,

FIND OUT MORE – SCAN HERE:

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY)

KAWAKAWA TO KAIKOHE

streams and Lake Ōmāpere.

Departing Kawakawa on the west of town,

Trail Highlights: Lake Ōmāpere – is of

the cycle trail follows a route behind the

great cultural and environmental value

Moerewa Freezing works. Moerewa is

to Māori • Summit of Kaikohe – with

also known as ‘Motown’ or ‘Tuna Town’.

impressive views • 80m-long curved rail

Heading further inland through rural

tunnel. Handy hint! Let your eyes adjust

landscapes to Tuhipa suspension bridges

to the dark before entering the tunnel or

www.twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz

17

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

open section

sails. Stand on the bow and scour the water for local attentionseekers: back-flipping dolphins.

Off the saddle

AQUA ADVENTURES Back in Paihia, take a kayaking trip around the bay, sail to the famous Hole in the Rock or book a cruise on board a handsome schooner, complete with billowing wind-filled

https://mullarkeybikeandshuttle.co.nz/ Wherever you are staying in Kerikeri/ Haruru/Paihia/Ōpua or along the Trail, we will collect you and your bikes. Please call 0800 891 340 for a quote or email: sales@mullarkeybikeandshuttle.co.nz

TOP TRAIL HIRE AND TOURS https://toptrail.co.nz/ Top trail Hire & Tours offers bike hire, transport, self-guided

Koh u k o hu R

d.

The cycle trail tells the story of an emerging nation, capturing the history and heritage of both Māori and tours for all ages. 0800 867 872 • 027 453 5176 • Email: Info@toptrail.co.nz ABOUT US European activity and settlements. Story boards along the way bring life to the history and stories of local Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail Charitable Trust manages TWIN COAST ADVENTURES people. The trail is open during daylight hours only, and the compacted shale surfaceThe is Pou usable all year the cycle trail on behalf of https://twincoastadventures.co.nz/ the Far North District Council. The Located in central Kaikohe, motel round.

ABOUT US Trust manages the daily operations, maintenance, marketing and accommodation, bike hire and shuttles. 09 401 2743 • 021 028 50247

promotion and future developments. The Trustees promote the use To Kaitaia The Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Trailtrail Charitable manages of Cycle the cycle to bothTrust visitors and local communities. The role of the cycle trail on behalf of the trustees Far North District The of the community and mana is to ensureCouncil. the interests Trust manages the daily operations, maintenance, marketing and whenua are represented. https://ranuionhokianga.co.nz/ promotion and future developments. The Trustees promote the use https://www.facebook.com/ranuionhokianga.co.nz/ We offer cycle transport Ranui of the cycle trail to both visitors and local communities. The role of linking directly to the Twin Coast Cycle Trails. Usual route between Hōreke/ Accommodation, bike hire, heritage, & drink, &community and the trustees is to food ensure the interestssee of the mana Māngungu to Kohukohu but we include Rawēne on request..

For bookings check whenua are represented. do, shuttles, water activities, hot pools & more...

• 022 643 599 Please contact Paihia iSiteout forwww.ranuionhokianga.co.nz assistance with information and bookings and or book direct to our Trail bike Hire services below; SCAN HERE 0800 474 830 or 09 402 7345 Hokianga Please contact Paihia iSite for assistance with Harbour Mangungu information and bookings and or book direct to our Mission Clendon House House Trail bike Hire services below; Bike Hire Shuttles SCAN HERE 0800 474 830 or 09 402 7345 Hokianga

SCAN HERE -

d.

RANUI – CYCLE TRANSPORT

To see all the operators on the cycle trail

KOHUKOHU

twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz

18

RAWENE

+

Bike Hire

+

TWIN COAST ADVENTURES

Harbour

ShuttlesLocated in central Kaikohe, motel accommodation, bike hire and

Clendon House

KOHUKOHU

.

Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail – one of the 23 Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand. The cycle trail stretches 87km from Ōpua on the east coast, across the heartland to Hōreke on the Hokianga Harbour on the west side.

MULLARKEY BIKE AND SHUTTLE

Rd

This is a one, two or more day’s ride from the beautiful Bay of Islands to picturesque Hokianga Harbour, or vice versa.

ABOVE: Kayaking in the Bay of Islands, Northland © Adventure-HQ

Ran gia hu a

Island. A day trip from Paihia Wharf presents lush walks, remnants of historic Māori villages, snorkelling, kayaking and a teal-meets-green landscape that is only – marginally – outshone by the birdlife.

TE RITO MARAE Located right on the trail, you can experience an overnight stay at the authentic Te Rito Marae in Moerewa. Enjoy a Māori welcome ceremony, complete with storytelling and home-cooked kai before drifting off to sleep in the shared sleeping quarters, set up in the meeting house (all linen provided). Breakfast is served before departure.

Koh u k o hu R

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

ISLAND HOPPING Regarded as the hub of the Bay of Islands, Paihia boasts 144 dazzling islands within its reach, the largest being the undeniably beautiful (and very accessible) Urupukapuka

HISTORY The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is just down the road from Paihia. It is here Māori chiefs and European settlers signed the Treaty of Waitangi. In Russell, New Zealand’s oldest hotel and licensed pub, the Duke of Marlborough, sits before a ribbon of golden beach. Pompallier House is also located here. Once the headquarters of the French Catholic mission, the historic building is open for guided tours.

RAWENE

Ma Missi

HOREKE

wairere boul

Nau mai, Haere mai/Welcome

to our communities . We invite you to experience our culture GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

on the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail

Capture the momen t

I was here!

Some of the trails iconic trail towns and touch points are:

in this frame Put yourself Create lasting memories on a pilgrimage by bicycle between the communities, hinterland, historic places in our shared cultural history in the Far North of Aotearoa. The Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail touches our communities.

Hōreke and Māngungu where the largest signing of Maori chiefs to the Treaty took place Ōkaihau an original Train town, stop for foodie experiences Kaikohe the centre of Ngapuhi, and home of the Pioneer Village, Hone Heke Memorial Hill and Park and just outside town is Ngawha Springs

Moerewa a modern industrial rural farming town Kawakawa the train town, with toilets and Te Hononga, Hundertwasser’s legacies, then Ōpua, historic landing place of Maori and later soldiers and settlers alike as well as modern marinas and the entrance way by car ferry to Russell.

twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz 19

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

Along the trail Explore incredible natural beauty and cultural heritage

Boardwalk leading to Hōreke © Twin Coast Cycle Trail INSET: Paihia waterfront © Fullers Bay of Islands

T

he Bay of Islands, with more than 144 stunning islands to discover, is a favourite playground for holidaymakers from around the world.

The main town in the area, Paihia, is an ideal base for exploring the region.

Situated between rolling green hills, blue harbours and biscuit-coloured beaches, Paihia is the ultimate destination with attractions ranging from the indulgent to adrenalinpumping. You may wish to catch a culture show, go souvenir shopping or just laze on the beach.

With all of those islands beckoning, however, you’ll want to find your sea

• Walking trails, swimming hole, caravan café (weekends only) at Wairere Boulders in Hōreke.

• Water-fronting sunset views from the historic Hōreke Pub. • Kemp House in Kerikeri, New Zealand’s oldest European building.

• Hundertwasser Memorial Park and the train in Kawakawa.

• Kaikohe’s Pioneer Village features a courthouse, cottages, a hall and a school as well as machinery, fire engines, cars and a restored 1901 Burrell Steam Locomotive.

• Mini obstacle course near Kaikohe.

• In Ōkaihau, a Firefighter Museum features firetrucks,

20

legs. A wide range of boat tours depart from both Paihia and Russell, including the Cream Trip, the Hole in the Rock (conditions permitting), the R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship, sailing, cruising and fishing trips, charter boats as well as dolphin encounters.

ŌHAEAWAI

PAIHIA TO ŌPUA WALK

Between Moerewa and Kaikohe, this was the scene of a significant battle between Māori and the Crown and now a site of historical importance well worth exploring.

This three-hour each way coastal path is a winner, with views, picnic and swimming spots, historic relics, pipi in the tidal flats and, in late summer, wild figs to pick.

The beautiful Hokianga Harbour welcomes you to either the end or the beginning of the cycle trail. Look for the twin harbourside settlements of Ōmāpere and Ōpononi, famous for the golden sand dunes monopolising the view from the shoreline.

Highlights of the trail equipment and models from around the world.

Lawton akawa © Ruth car park in Kaw Hundertwasser

I

t’s worth a detour to visit Te Waimate Mission, where an important part of Aotearoa’s colonial history is preserved by Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga. Early missionary and farming methods were seeded here, with an attempt to recreate English pastoral landscape still evident in the grounds. The preserved house, complete with period furniture, features interpretive displays and artefacts relaying a wealth of fascinating stories. Visitors can spend time in the 1832 house and wander through the gorgeous gardens before picnicking in the shade of an ancient oak tree.

Visit the 1860s home of James and Jane Clendon. The couple feature at the heart of New Zealand’s emergence as a multi-cultural nation and their family story weaves through the history of early Aotearoa New Zealand. At Clendon House, follow the story of James, antipodean politics, and the growth of industry, or delve into Jane’s story of perseverance in the face of adversity after the death of her husband.

Please check online for opening hours, Admission fees apply.

OKAIHAU RAILSTAY Come stay with us Looking for safe rural parking right next to the Twin Coast Cycle Trail – it directly across the road! An added bonus of local knowledge to help you with planning your cycling and sightseeing. We welcome your fur babies. We offer power, an awesome shower and toilet for an extra cost per head.

Phone Noeline on 021 124 2237 – or just rock on up.

PIONEER VILLAGE – KAIKOHE The perfect spot to take a break, only 80m off the cycle trail, secure bike parking, toilets, WiFi, ebike charging, info & coffee! A journey into the past, this village is a true hidden gem. In the heart of Kaikohe, take a self-directed tour, explore the extensive collection of heritage buildings while admiring the beautiful gardens. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, group bookings welcome, weekends by appointment.

1A Recreation Road, Kaikohe, Ph +64 9 401 0816 info@pioneervillage.org.nz, www.pioneervillage.org.nz MĀNGUNGU MISSION Established on the shores of the spectacular Hokianga Harbour in 1828 as a Wesleyan Mission station. The surviving home and surrounds were host to the largest signing of Te Tiriti o Waitangi, when over 70 Chiefs, before a crowd of 3000 people, added their assent on the 12th of February 1840. Explore the history of a home on the move, the 1830s mission house that travelled by sea and road and returned more than a century later.

Māngungu is the Western Terminus point for the Twin Coast Cycle Trail. Please check online for opening hours, admission fees apply.

Motukiore Road 3km from Horeke www.mangungumission.co.nz

8 Clendon Esplanade, Rawene www.clendonhouse.co.nz

CYCLE NORTHLAND W: www.northlandexperiences.co.nz W: www.toptrail.co.nz NORTHLAND EXPERIENCES 5 day 5 night e-bike tours Fully supported, all inclusive TOP TRAIL Unguided 1 or 2-day rides Standard or e-bike hire, shuttle transfers ADMIRALS VIEW LODGE Self-contained serviced accomodation in central Paihia. Quiet location, spacious studios and appartments with sea views, sunny terraces & patios.

• Sky TV - Guest select, 32in Smart TV’s with DVD player • Air-conditioning, filtered water, electric blankets • 250m to swimming beach, restaurants & cafes • Free WIFI, bikes, tennis & BBQs • Spa Baths • Secure bike storage • Qualmark 4.5 star, AA Smartfuel 2 Macmurray Road, Paihia. info@admiralsviewlodge.co.nz, www.admiralsviewlodge.co.nz, Freephone 0800 247 234, Ph +64 9 402 6236

twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz

21

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

CLENDON HOUSE

Don’t leave without...

GREAT RIDE • POU HERENGA TAI TWIN COAST CYCLE TRAIL

TAKING A SIDE TRIP TO HARURU FALLS: Horseshoe in shape, Haruru means ‘big noise’ in Māori so get ready for a ferocious display. Just 5km from Paihia, pull into the car park and walk two minutes down the track, past daring youngsters flinging themselves off a ropeswing into the lagoon. You can also walk here from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in 90 minutes or paddle your way upstream from Paihia on a rented kayak.

RIDING THE BAY OF ISLANDS VINTAGE RAILWAY: A spectacle for visitors and a mild cause of alarm for drivers, this vintage locomotive is the only working railway in Aotearoa that chugs down a State Highway.

Trundling through the bustling town of Kawakawa, ride the rails Friday to Sunday from Kawakawa’s historic 1911 train station. While here check out the Te Hononga Hundertwasser Memorial Park that includes a small museum, public artwork workshops, library and town square.

SINKING INTO NGĀWHĀ SPRINGS: At Te Waiariki Ngāwhā Springs natural thermal water bubbles from the earth into 16 rustic geothermal pools. Following a $4.3 million refurb in 2020, there are now an additional eight private pools. Adult prices start from $34 with reduced fees for Northland residents.

More mountain biking, please

Waitangi Mountain Bike Park RIGHT: Kororipo Heritage Park © BOTH: Northland Inc. RIGHT INSET: Sage Paroa Bay Winery Restaurant © DWB

F

or those keen to keep the spokes spinning, or who have surplus energy to burn, the Waitangi Mountain Bike Park provides a fun-for-all playground with views that will take your breath away as much as the downhill descents.

Located in the Bay of Islands, there are almost 50km of varying trails with grades ranging from 2 to 5. Visitors are well looked after with a café, bike hire and a shuttle service, the driver of which will be more than happy to advise you about the trails ahead. Get ready to blow the cobwebs into oblivion as you hurtle your way to the bottom, where a decent coffee awaits.

PAIHIA > see PAGE 18

Pioneer Waterfront Apartments

Absolute waterfront apartments with all facilities, self-contained, in Paihia, Bay of Islands • 2-bedroom apartments • WiFi • BBQ • SKY • Flatscreen TV • Spa baths • Private balconies • Swimming & kids paddling pool, hot spa • Off-street parking • 2min walk from town centre and wharf

0800 27 27 86 www.pioneerapartments.co.nz HIRE-SHUTTLE-TOURS

22

hosts@pioneerapartments.co.nz I 44 Marsden Rd, Paihia

1. SOAK UP THE HISTORY With Westerners arriving in Aotearoa in 1642 and leaving a distinctly European stamp, it’s hard to visualise how Māori communities once lived, but Kerikeri is one of the best places to see just that.

The Kerikeri Mission Station, first established in 1819 by missionary Samuel Marsden, houses New Zealand’s oldest historical buildings from the colonial days, and is also in proximity to Kororipo Pā, a terraced fortress that was once the home of Hongi Hika, a revered Māori chief.

Te Ahurea is a living village and interactive pā site. This recently redeveloped area is nestled between Kororipo Pā, the Kerikeri Stone Store and Mission House.

Kerikeri: three ways

2. FIND AN IDYLLIC HANGOUT Rainbow Falls are as pretty as the name suggests. Just 10 minutes from the centre of Kerikeri, the water spills with a thunderous grace over a 27m-high ledge.

Arguably New Zealand’s best-kept secret, Aroha Island is a short 12km drive from Kerikeri, accessed

CYCLING ADVENTURE

T

on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail, Bay of Islands?

Subject to availability, valid until 31/10/23

Located opposite Te Ti Beach and the waters of the Bay of Islands, it's the perfect spot for exploring.

138 Marsden Rd, Paihia.

HHM629SSS 10/20

Base yourself at Heritage Collection Sea Spray Suites, Paihia.

Book online at www.heritagehotels.co.nz and use the promo code NZCYCLE

3. EAT UP! Watch the chocolatiers at Makana chocolate factory create their treats and sample the results before heading to the shop. As if that was the end of the sweet deliciousness; there’s also an ice cream parlour on site. Stock up on a range of fresh produce, crafts and vintage clothing at Kerikeri’s Old Packhouse Market: the Bay of Islands’ largest market (helpful hint: take cash). Open every Saturday and Sunday from 8am, go and fill your bags with goodies.

Kerikeri is also surrounded by boutique vineyards specialising in small batches.

Bay of... plenty of wine!

Looking for a

Receive a 10% discount

via causeway or, if you’re feeling adventurous, by kayak. This 12ha sanctuary is an Eden of diverse plant and birdlife, enveloped by glistening water. For walkers, the Kerikeri River Track follows the riverbank to Wharepuke Falls and its peaceful swimming hole. Dry off and move on to the next dazzling swimming spot called Fairy Pools.

Book now: heritagehotels.co.nz/NZCycleTrail or 09 402 0013

he Bay of Islands is not only regarded as the birthplace of the nation but the birthplace of New Zealand wine. It was over 200 years ago, in the township of Kerikeri, when Reverend Samuel Marsden planted a single grapevine into the rich Northland soil. Not long after, Scotsman James Busby established a vineyard near the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and it’s

from here that New Zealand’s wine industry flourished into a NZ$1.95 billion export earner.

4 of the best Northland drops

KERIKERI > see PAGE 23

THE KAURI WORKSHOP • Plenty of gift ideas for all budgets.

• Wide range of handcrafted wood made from New Zealand native timbers including kauri, rimu, totara and pohutukawa.

• Overseas shipping available.

• Come on in and see our woodturner at work.

www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100075866239974 500 Kerikeri Rd, Kerikeri • P: 09 407 9196 • E: kauriw@xtra.co.nz

Paroa Bay: One of two vineyards near Russell with fine dining restaurants (the other is Omata Estate) – Paroa Bay’s ‘Sage’ restaurant also offers tastings with a jaw-dropping view.

Longview Estate: This vineyard’s ‘White Diamond’ wine is made from Niagara table grapes and is proving a hit overseas. It’s one of New Zealand’s most expensive wines at over $500 a bottle.

The Landing: Expert reviews recently rated this winery as one of the best vineyard experiences in New Zealand. With a private boat transfer and lunch at the luxurious estate included in the tasting fee, it’s a VIP trip you won’t forget.

Marsden Estate: Named after Samuel Marsden, the winery is on the outskirts of Kerikeri near the airport. Consistently winning gold medals for their ‘Black Rocks’ chardonnay, the restaurant overlooks the vines.

23

CAPE RĒINGA to HOKIANGA HARBOUR

FAR NORTH Cycleway

2 days EXTEND YOUR RIDE:

HEARTLAND RIDE • FAR NORTH CYCLEWAY

At Hokianga, this route connects with the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail Great Ride.

TOP TIP – Keep your wits about you on Ninety Mile Beach: it’s shared with vehicles.

161km Teeter on the very tip of New Zealand’s North Island and then glide down the western coastline via Ninety Mile Beach.

Travelling on a public highway made entirely of sand is just one of the many exhilarating experiences on this trail.

S

tart this epic journey in Cape Rēinga, the northernmost point in New Zealand. Whether it’s the dramatic lofty position of the lighthouse, the haunting beauty of the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean crashing into one, or the Māori belief that this is where spirits of the dead depart for Hawaiki-A-Nui (the land of their ancestors), it’s very atmospheric.

From here, the road dips south for an hour before joining the famed Ninety Mile Beach: an official state highway that is actually 88km in length. There’s nothing quite as liberating as cycling at speed along flat golden sand, an ocean breeze licking your face.

MAP LEGEND open section charter transport boat start/finish point point of interest town

Once you reach Ahipara, the route heads inland across the countryside to Hokianga Harbour. Roads along this entire route are best suited for reasonably fit riders with biking experience, but the ferry between Kohukohu and Rāwene does provide 2km of respite. In Rāwene, where the trip concludes, duck into the Boatshed Café for good honest food.

café/restaurant toilets car park accommodation camping state highway © AA Traveller 2022

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

250m 200m 150m 100m 50m 0m

24

Waipapakauri Beach

Cape Rēinga 90km

Ahipara 15km

Herekino 15km

Rangiora 60km

T

riding the trail

town on Foreshore Rd then Roma Rd. Turn right at the Kaitāia–Awaroa Rd T-intersection. At Herekino, turn left to continue following the Kaitāia–Awaroa Rd. The village of Broadwood lies along this road about 35km from Ahipara. It has a general store.

From Broadwood, it is 30km, including a 2km ferry trip, to Rāwene, via Broadwood then Kohukohu Rd. The ferry terminal to Rāwene is 4km south along the coast from Kohukohu.

The ferry runs several times a day. It charges a minimal fee for the 15min trip across the Hokianga Harbour to Rāwene.

Highlights of the trail • Cape Rēinga lighthouse is an easy, 10-minute walk from the car park. Nearby is the highly significant pōhutukawa tree from where Māori spirits bid their last farewell.

• Rāwene is New Zealand’s third oldest European township and home to historic Clendon House, former dwelling of Captain James Reddy Clendon, ship owner, trader and witness to the Treaty of Waitangi.

• The 15-minute ferry from Kohukohu to Rāwene is short but scenic.

• Kohukohu is a charming coastal village and home to scores of craftspeople.

• Herekino Forest Track Climb forest stairs tangled in tree roots while looking for the giant kauri snail, some of which boast 6-8cm shells.

• Bodyboard down the enormous Te Paki sand dunes at the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach.

• The resin-like gum from kauri trees was highly sought in the 19th century for varnish. Relics

Rāwene © Northland Inc.

TRAIL INFO 2 Days 161km

TRAIL GRADE: CAPE RĒINGA TO HOKIANGA HARBOUR, 161KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) ACCESS: Cape Rēinga is 112km from Kaitāia via SH 1.

NINETY MILE BEACH: The beach is best ridden at low tide. The tide times are printed in every edition of the local newspaper, the Northland Age, or check at the Kaitāia i-SITE, P: 09 408 9450.

FERRIES: A car ferry crosses the Hokianga Harbour between Rāwene and 4km south of Kohukohu. It runs every 45min between 7.45am & 8pm. You can also take the Ranui ferry water transport to Rāwene to begin the Kauri Coast Cycleway, or to Hōreke – the start/end point of the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail https://twincoastcycletrail.kiwi.nz/.

See www.ranui.nz.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: At main towns but limited along the rest of trail.

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•

•

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from gum-digging days can be seen at Ahipara Gumfields Historic Reserve.

Ahipara boasts some of the best surfing in the country, particularly at Shipwreck Bay. Ninety Mile Beach lends itself to 4WD off-roading, quad biking and horse trekking.

Te Whare Whiri Toi art gallery has flax-woven art, Māori paintings and textiles, as well as summer workshops.

Te Ahu in Kaitāia is home to the Museum @ Te Ahu, a modern and interactive space.

ABOVE: Cape Rēinga lighthouse © Adobe Stock

EXPLORE MORE AT CAPE RĒINGA HIKURUA/SURVILLE CLIFFS Officially the North Island’s northernmost point, but not as easily accessible as Cape Rēinga. You’ll need a 4WD, hardened legs and a special permit. Best admired from afar.

WATER: Fairly remote ride, with limited services, so it pays to plan ahead.

TYPE OF BIKE: Touring bikes and mountain bikes are suitable for the terrain. E-bikes can also be ridden.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

KAPOWAIRUA/SPIRITS BAY CAMPSITE Having viewed this bay from the Cape Rēinga Lighthouse walk, enjoy its golden sands and serenity at the scenic DOC campsite.

TE PAKI COASTAL TRACK Trace Cape Rēinga coastline from Kapowairua/Spirits Bay to Ninety Mile Beach and Ahipara over three to four days and 48km. Easy but with some up-hills and drops into several beaches. Those with less time can tackle individual track sections ranging from 45 minutes to several hours.

TAPOTUPOTU BEACH CAMPING Arguably the best location for New Zealand’s nicest sunrise and sunset.

This is no-frills camping that’s off-thebeaten track. A small, nearby water channel provides campers with their own lazy river.

25

HEARTLAND RIDE • FAR NORTH CYCLEWAY

he trail starts at Cape Rēinga lighthouse, built in 1941, where you will find interpretation panels and toilets but no other facilities. Rēinga is Māori for ‘underworld’ – Māori believe that the spirits of the dead depart for the underworld from Te Rerenga Wairua. From Cape Rēinga, this route follows SH 1 for around 16km before turning west at Te Paki and following Kauaeparaoa Stream (also called Te

Paki Stream) to the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach. The beach is your ‘highway’ for 80km through to Ahipara, which is also the first and only place beside the beach that has shops. It is a long journey along the beach, but at low tide the beach surface is hard, smooth and fast riding with a tailwind.

The only soft sand occurs where streams flow across the beach. Note that the beach is best ridden at low tide. The locals will know the tide times, but you can also check them on the MetService website. It’s worth stopping to wash the salt and sand off your bike at Ahipara before heading out of

KAURI COAST Cycleway

RĀWENE to DARGAVILLE 113km

1-2 days

HEARTLAND HEARTLAND RIDE RIDE •• KAURI KAURI COAST COAST CYCLEWAY CYCLEWAY

BEST FOR: Those who appreciate mighty giants of the forest.

Egypt has ancient pyramids; Cambodia has Angkor Wat and New Zealand has kauri trees. Aged from about 3000 years old, these naturemade marvels are a wonder of the world.

S

tart out in Rāwene, an historic town clutching to the coastline of Hokianga Harbour and then pedal inland to nature’s great green kingdom: Waipōua Kauri Forest. Caretakers of New Zealand’s oldest if not mightiest residents, gigantic kauri trees tower over 50m above the forest floor. Home to both Tāne Mahuta, our largest kauri tree and Te Matua Ngāhere which is estimated to be almost 3000 years old, these elderly grandfathers enjoy a celebrity-like status. This ancient green world is also home to North Island kōkako and the shy brown kiwi.

MAP LEGEND open section start/finish point

The terrain soon switches to farmland and ventures past bucolic fields to Dargaville before meeting the mouth of Kaipara Harbour where it concludes.

point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets car park accommodation camping state highway

TOP TIP – The trail links to the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail and the Heartland Ride tourist routes to the north and south, the Far North Cycleway and the Kaipara Missing Link. © AA Traveller 2022

This route comprises 90 per cent sealed roads and 10 per cent gravel roads with some steep inclines that are best suited to fit riders with experience. With a year-round mild climate, you can enjoy this adventure throughout the year but with rain a common occurrence in Waipōua Forest, pack your raincoat!

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500m 250m 0m

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Rāwene 21km

Ōpononi

Waimamaku 15km

25km

Waipōua Forest

Dargaville 51km

TRAIL INFO

1-2 Days 113km

TRAIL GRADE: HEARTLAND RIDE • KAURI COAST CYCLEWAY

RĀWENE TO DARGAVILLE GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is available at main towns but limited along the rest of the trail.

Waipōua Forest

The Four Sisters, Waipōua Forest © Adobe Stock

riding the trail The whole route between Rāwene and Dargaville is about 8–11hr riding time in all.

An overnight stop is therefore suggested.

You will inevitably want to get up close with the mighty kauri trees. Please note, however, that kauri dieback disease may mean you can’t access all kauri forest walks; please respect all signage, staying well clear of any areas off-limits.

Starting in Rāwene, this route heads out on Parnell Rd to the T-intersection with SH 12. Then turn right and cycle to Ōpononi and on to Ōmāpere. There is a sharp 110m climb out of the far side of Ōmāpere.

Twelve kilometres on from Ōmāpere is the small settlement of Waimamaku, which has a café and Four Square grocery store.

Beyond Waimamaku, the road climbs into Waipōua Forest. A small descent leads to the car park and a takeaways caravan at the start of the 1min walk to New Zealand’s most famous tree, Tāne Mahuta. New Zealand’s largest living kauri and known as the ‘Lord of the Forest’, this imposing giant has a 13.77m girth, a trunk height of 17.68m and a total height of 51.5m. Please respect all signage in relation to this, and other, forest reserves. From Tāne Mahuta, the road is mostly downhill for 10km.

The touring route continues straight ahead on SH 12 and up a 5km climb through forest and across farmland. About 7km from the bridge, either continue to follow SH 12 or take the gravel road to the east, Katui Rd. The gravel option will be slower but has less traffic. If taking the gravel route: follow the road down to Donnellys Crossing, turn right onto Trounson Park Rd and cycle 8km to Trounson Kauri Park.

Just after the kauri park, veer right and in 200m is DOC’s Trounson Kauri Park Camping area. Or turn off to Kauri Coast

Top 10 Holiday Park, 100m along Opouteke Rd. Chris the owner is also a cyclist and can send you off on a loop from here to encompass the Maunganui Bluff. Night walks from the Holiday Park are a must, to see kiwi in their natural habitat. Continue along Trounson Park Rd to SH12. Turn left to continue towards Dargaville.

Two kilometres after passing Kaihū Tavern, turn left onto Ahikiwi Rd and take the following country roads to Dargaville.

Alternatively stay on SH12 and turn right onto Ōmāmari following signs to Kai Iwi Lakes. Turn left onto Maropiu Rd, then right onto Maropiu Settlement Rd. Then 8km from Kaihū, turn left onto Waihue Rd, then 200m later, right onto Opanake Rd. Almost 13km down Opanake Rd, turn left onto Parore West Rd and soon after, right onto Waihue Rd to cruise into Dargaville on Hokianga Rd. Turn right onto Normanby St and on your left 20m along is Time To, a well-stocked bike shop and workshop.

Phone 09 439-0100.

Dargaville has a Pump track at Selwyn Park and a small mountain bike park at Pōuto o Te Rangi/Harding Park, 2km from town.

Follow the signs to the Dargaville Museum and the Vintage Machinery Club which have stunning views. For a small town, Dargaville boasts a lot of art and craft, a prime example being The Woodturners Kauri Studio, which showcases kauri carvings and gives access to a workshop to see how it’s done. And as this is New Zealand’s ‘Kūmara Capital’, it’s no surprise to find a museum dedicated to farm machinery here. Harding Park is home to vintage tractors, harvesters and logging equipment.

For amazing views of the area, it’s also worth taking the short, sharp walk to needle-like Tokatoka Peak.

Footprints Waipōua Twilight Encounter – Witness the forest come nightfall on this four-hour tour departing at 6pm (5pm in winter). Cast in spellbinding shadow, visit the 3000-year-old Te Matua Ngāhere kauri tree while your guide explains the forest’s great significance to Māori beliefs.

DRINKING WATER: Water (and food) is available at the start and end points – Rāwene and Dargaville – and along the route at Ōpononi and Ōmāpere. Free water is available at the Dargaville Museum. There is also a tavern at Kaihū.

TYPE OF BIKE: A touring bike, mountain bike or e-bike is suitable for the terrain.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

Highlights of the trail • Dargaville’s Kauri Museum and the Dargaville Museum recount stories of pioneering foresters. The Woodturners Kauri Gallery sells incredible kauri objects and is worth a visit.

• The impossibly blue water and platinum-white sand at Kai Iwi Lakes. Wonderfully cooling swims to be had here.

• The twin settlements of Ōmāpere and Ōpononi offer beach life and sand-dune surfing.

• Utter peace and quiet at Trounson Kauri Park, a mainland island and 586ha reserve with scores of kauri trees.

• Trundle along disused railway lines in a converted golf cart with Dargaville Rail Tours.

• Head to Baylys Beach for horse treks and beach strolls.

You can also access the 101km fully drivable Ripiro Beach from here.

DARGAVILLE > see PAGE 27

Time To...

is more than just a bike shop Clothing and Protection Parts and Accessories • Full workshop for servicing and repairs • Shuttle available, bookings required

We are the store with more

When its Time To Ride, its Time To visit… Time To…

45 Normanby Street, Dargaville

www.timeto.co.nz

Phone: +64 9 439 0100

Email: timetodargaville@gmail.com

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DARGAVILLE to AUCKLAND

KAIPARA

Missing Link

2-3 days

© AA Traveller 2022

HEARTLAND HEARTLANDRIDES RIDE • KAIPARA MISSING LINK

BEST FOR: Seekers of shipwrecks and ghost stories.

TOP TIP – There’s nowhere to buy provisions in Pōuto Pt but you can grab supplies in Dargaville, Te Kōpuru and Helensville.

NZ.com

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open section boat route busy road section start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets car park accommodation camping state highway

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Dargaville

0m

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Kaipara Missing Link provides a cycling connection between Auckland and Northland, to the Kauri Coast and Far North cycleways and the Great Ride Twin Coast cycle trail. nce you’ve soaked up every Dargaville charm, cycle south-west towards Pōuto Pt, located on the bottom tip of Pōuto Peninsula. This long and exposed bulb of land captivates visitors with its ever-shifting sands, petrified kauri forest and eerie sailor stories. Cycle along a windwhipped beach harassed by an explosive ocean. As you draw closer to Pōuto Pt, you’ll be confronted with the Valley of the Wrecks and The Graveyard, haunting monikers coined from the area’s turbulent seafaring history that has left 150 shipwrecks stranded on its sandbars. Considered one of the most treacherous stretches in the country, skeleton vessels chewed up and spat out by the Tasman Sea lie motionless on the sand.

MAP LEGEND

100m

118km

Parakai

Pōuto Pt 65km

boat

Britomart 49km

At Pōuto Pt, board a boat heading for Parakai. You’ll be crossing the calm and picturesque Kaipara Harbour before continuing towards the Victorian village of Helensville, and dropping into Auckland, the dazzling City of Sails.

TOP TIP: The boat across Kaipara Harbour is not a commercial ferry and only operates for groups and charters. Fortunately, several charter services, including fish charters, operate in the area so an option is to link up with one of these.

Cycling at Woodhill © Woodhill Forest

riding the trail

TRAIL INFO

DARGAVILLE TO PŌUTO PT, 65KM

PŌUTO PT TO AUCKLAND CENTRAL, 53KM The cross-harbour boat trip will take you to Parakai, 3km from Helensville. Parakai is known for its geothermal water recreation centre complete with large indoor and outdoor pools, hydroslides, BBQ and picnic areas. Helensville is a good place to break the journey overnight. As well as having plenty of visitor accommodation, there’s also great antique and collectable shops, cafés and hotels housed in pretty Victorian buildings.

The route to Auckland continues from Helensville’s main street; simply head right up any side street and you will reach Garfield Rd. Turn right along Garfield Rd, which becomes Wishart Rd and then Old North Rd where it meets Inland Rd on the left. Keep on Old North Rd until Nixon Rd (also known as Taupaki Rd), which becomes Red Hills Rd as it leads to the West Auckland suburb of Massey (19km from downtown Auckland). Your best bet for navigating your way into the city centre is to look up the Auckland Transport Cycle Route maps; many of the routes are well-signposted.

2-3 Days 118km

TRAIL GRADE: DARGAVILLE TO PŌUTO POINT, 65KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) PŌUTO POINT TO AUCKLAND CENTRAL, 53KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

More mountain biking, please RIVERHEAD MOUNTAIN BIKING: Cycle 40 minutes out of Kumeū to Riverhead Forest. The free purpose-built compound boasts trails for all skill levels, as well as Auckland’s best pump tracks. Note winters are wet, making it more of a fair-weather park.

WOODHILL MOUNTAIN BIKING: Open year-round, Woodhill is a 40-minute ride in the opposite direction to Riverhead Forest. A great spot for beginner and intermediate riders, it has sandy tracks. Entry incurs a fee, but facilities include a shop, café and bike rental.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Available at Dargaville and Parakai, and from Helensville south.

DRINKING WATER: There are no shops at Pōuto. Supplies can be purchased at Dargaville, Te Kōpuru, Parakai, Helensville and Auckland.

TYPE OF BIKE: Touring bikes and mountain bikes are suitable for the terrain. E-bikes, with sufficient battery capacity, are also suitable.

Kaipara Harbour Crossing: Crossings can be made via Kaipara Cruises P: +64 9 420 8466 or +64 27 497 0654 www.kaiparacruises.co.nz GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

Highlights of the trail

Pōuto © Adobe Stock

• Visit Kumeū’s various wineries. Popular options are Soljans, Coopers Creek and Kumeū River Wines as well as The Hunting Lodge Winery & Restaurant in Waimauku.

• Detour to Pōuto Lighthouse: New Zealand’s oldest wooden lighthouse. Climb the sandy bluff for views across the Valley of the Wrecks and Tasman Sea. • Kellys Bay is a small rural seaside community with a good beach and great fishing.

• Rejuvenate weary legs at newly refurbished Palm Springs Geothermal Pools in Parakai.

• Hallertau Brewery shouldn’t be missed if you like good ale, hearty food and live music.

• Try a spot of frisbee golf or swoosh through the trees on flying foxes in Woodhill Forest.

• Helensville features restored Victorian buildings housing cafés and shops selling collectables.

• Enjoy Helensville’s Railway Museum and Riverside Walkway as well as fishing charters and harbour cruises.

• Riverhead Tavern is slightly off your main route but its heritage dates back over 150 years.

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HEARTLAND RIDE • KAIPARA MISSING LINK

Cycle west from Dargaville on River Rd, which becomes Pōuto Rd. At the 11km mark is the village of Te Kōpuru, which has a general store. There are two options from Te Kōpuru – the beach ride or the road. The beach ride is the best way to go when the wind direction is favourable, but note that it’s only possible to ride on the beach within 2.5hr either side of low tide, so check the tide times carefully before committing. To reach the beach, turn right onto West Coast Rd, then left onto Redhill Rd, right onto Glinks Rd and cycle out to the coast. For the road option, simply continue from Te Kōpuru along Pōuto Rd directly to Pōuto Pt. It’s worth taking the detour down to Kellys Bay; look for the left turn down a gravel road at around the 45km mark (from Dargaville). You can then take the steep gravel-road climb out of the back to loop back to Pōuto Rd 5km further southwest. A boat trip can be arranged across Kaipara Harbour from Pōuto Village to Parakai, 3km from Helensville. The Kaipara Harbour crossing will need to be arranged in advance, with the main options being Kaipara Cruises or a charter service.

It’s also worth considering taking a fishing trip, which will not only get you across the harbour but make a real adventure of it! At 7.1km when passing Maxwell Rd, look left to see the smallest church in New Zealand.

An entertaining and interesting 1hr show about a vegetable can be seen here. Pōuto Pt is a timeless Kiwi bach town. 2km before town is the beautiful Waikāretu Marae. If you book in advance you can be welcomed on with a pōwhiri before enjoying a meal and local stories. Bike wash facilities available, showers and accommodation in the marae or a place to pitch your tent. Phone Ella on 027 277 7797. Alternatively ride into Pōuto and turn left up Signal Station Rd for 200m to get to the Marine Hall and camping or go straight down to the beach to catch the boat.

If staying in Pōuto, a 9km ride on the beach will take you to the foot of the lighthouse up on the sand dune.

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

TRAIL INFO

HAURAKI

3-5 Days 160km

Rail Trail

TRAIL GRADES:

BEST FOR: Riders of all abilities looking for a laid-back adventure.

KAIAUA to MATAMATA 160km

4-5 days

Leisurely, long and laid-back the Hauraki Rail Trail is a Great Ride for all ages. Gentle terrain and plentiful accommodation, cafés and restaurants, make it ideal for all riders including children. Tackle all five sections across four to five days, or pick one to enjoy a manageable day ride.

Karangahake Gorge Historic Walkway This historic railway walk includes the Rail Tunnel Loop (45 minutes return) and the Historic Walkway to Waikino (four hours). Both tracks absorb the stunning gorge, gold-mining relics and the 1km rail tunnel.

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ack some binoculars, as this ride officially starts on the Shorebird Coast. Tracing the Firth of Thames, riders discover the region’s bird life and wetlands of international significance. Stop at the Pūkorokoro–Miranda Shorebird Centre and bird hides before making your way to Thames.

The ride to Paeroa offers unforgettable views across the

© Hauraki Rail Trail

Hauraki Plains and Kaimai Ranges.

From the Historical Maritime Park take the riverboat into Paeroa.

The most striking section follows the Ohinemuri River through the Karangahake Gorge. Gold-mining history and a 1100m railway tunnel feature in this fascinating canyon.

Hop on the Goldfields Railway train for the 30-minute passage between Waikino and Waihi stations.

The onward journey is dotted with dairy cows, riding under the gaze of Mt Te Aroha. Stop in the town to soak in the historic mineral spas, and enjoy the walkways, art and cafés. Continuing south, this gentle section passes fertile plains, horse studs, and groves of scented trees before reaching Matamata.

Celebrate with a visit to Hobbiton Movie Set and a tipple at the Green Dragon Inn.

TOP TIP – The trail is achievable year round and is wide, flat and smooth. There are a handful of gentle gradients and some short road sections.

KAIAUA TO THAMES 53KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) THAMES TO PAEROA 34KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) PAEROA TO WAIHI 24KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) & GRADE 2 (EASY) PAEROA TO TE AROHA 23KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) TE AROHA TO MATAMATA 37KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Mobile phone coverage is generally good; it can get patchy within the narrows of Karangahake Gorge.

REFRESHMENTS: We recommend carrying plenty of snacks and drinks to keep you fuelled up; this is especially important out of peak season when some cafés and shops run on limited hours. Water bottles can be filled at settlements along the way; be sure to carry plenty on hot days.

TYPE OF BIKE: Friendly rail trail terrain makes this suitable for everything from children’s bikes and uprights, to touring bikes, mountain bikes and e-bikes.

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY)

riding the trail Thames

53km

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Kaiaua

Paeroa 23km

Te Aroha

37km

Matamata

200m 100m 0m

MAP LEGEND open section optional route heritage train ride start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre tunnel town café/restaurant

PAEROA TO WAIHI, 24KM

toilets car park camping accommodation heritage battery state highway available in the villages of Waitakaruru, Pipiroa and Kopu. After the Kopu Bridge, the trail turns northwards for a few kilometres to reach Thames, an atmospheric town with plenty of dining and accommodation options.

As you approach the town centre, look out for various sculptures along the community’s art trail. The Coromandel Distillery Co in The Depot, Grahamstown is a definite must-visit while in Thames.

THAMES TO PAEROA, 34KM This richly historic area was once only accessible via the two rivers, Waihou and Hikutaiā. The Māori people believed that the deep valleys cutting through the Coromandel Ranges were carved by the thrashing tail of a taniwha. This is also the place where bushmen, gumdiggers and gold miners sought their fortunes, routinely

© AA Traveller 2022

KAIAUA TO THAMES, 53KM Named ‘The Journey of Te Aho’, this section of trail follows in the footsteps of early Māori settler Te Aho. Starting from Kaiaua, it winds around the edge of the shallow Firth of Thames, over chenier shell banks and through wetlands of international significance.

Visit the Pūkorokoro–Miranda Shorebird Centre where you can learn about the area’s precious birdlife before heading out to the hides to see them for yourself. Fanatical twitchers may wish to check ahead for the arrival and departure schedules of various migratory species. From Miranda Holiday Park, the trail skirts around the Firth, following stop-banks for much of the way. There are expansive views of coastal wetlands and verdant farmland, with the volcanic Coromandel Ranges a dramatic backdrop. Refreshments are

The most popular section of the Hauraki Rail Trail follows the Ohinemuri River through the dramatic Karangahake Gorge, a deep canyon cut through the Kaimai Ranges. Highlights of the gorge include a cascading waterfall, photogenic gold-mining sites and the charmingly old-fashioned Victoria Battery museum, plus the freaky Windows Walkway that burrows through a shadowy side-gorge. The pièce de résistance is an amazing 1100m-long railway tunnel, wobbled through with the aid of a torch. Near the halfway point is cute Waikino Station where there’s a café for a breather. This is the terminus of the train that runs between Waikino and Waihi; it’s well worth timing your riding to coincide with its running times as it’s a pretty special experience. Otherwise, it’s another 8km of riding to Waihi. With plenty of accommodation and places to eat – as well as proximity to glorious beaches – Waihi is a great base for your Hauraki adventures. This ‘Heart of Gold’ town still has an operational mine that can be visited on tours, plus the wonderfully interactive museum known as the Gold Discovery Centre. continued on p.32

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GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

crossing over to the eastern side of the ranges on rugged bush tracks through forests of mighty kauri. It is amid this history that this section of trail begins, at first following the old railway line out of Thames town and onward through lush farmland with the impressive ranges a constant companion to the east. Matātoki’s Cheese Barn and the Convenient Cow Café at Hikutaiā are nicely spaced pit-stops. Near Paeroa, it’s also just a short detour to the Historical Maritime Park where you can catch a boat ride on the Waihou River with your bike. Paeroa, at the southern end of this section is ‘world famous in New Zealand’ for its giant L&P bottle – a homage to home-grown soda-pop. Its antique shops are also notable. There’s also accommodation and places to eat for riders wanting to overnight here.

continued from p.31

PAEROA TO TE AROHA, 23KM

Heading south, this leisurely section passes through pretty Waikato farmland dotted with dairy cows. Front and centre are the bushy Kaimai–Mamaku Ranges and their 952m-highpoint Mt Te Aroha (952m; ‘the mountain of love’), plus wideranging views over the Hauraki Plains. This section of the trail ends in the small rural town of Te Aroha with historic mineral hot pools – a great way to soothe pedalweary muscles. Te Aroha also has a lovely town domain, and is home to some great cafés. If you’re after an adventure, check out the expert tour operator, Adventure Te Aroha who offer kayak and stand-up paddleboard tours on the Waihou River.

TE AROHA TO MATAMATA, 37KM

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

This gentle section of the trail passes through fertile plains and significant horse studs. It ends (or starts) in the vicinity of the Matamata i-SITE. The Hobbiton Movie Set is approximately a 30-minute drive from Matamata where visitors can get their Hobbit and The Lord Of The Rings fix (it’s well worth going for the gardens alone, never mind a refreshing pint at the Green Dragon Inn!) Along the way it passes various landmarks including the scenic Wairere Falls, Stanley Landing and the Firth Tower with two new great cafés along the way. If you’re looking for quirky accommodation in Matamata, then head to the House With No Nails. Enjoy the beautiful mountain views from this handcrafted timber frame home.

Highlights of the Trail • Visit Pūkorokoro-Miranda Shorebird Centre for information on migratory shorebirds.

• Stay at Miranda Holiday Park and relax in their thermally heated fresh mineral pools.

• Kaiaua is the ideal laid-back coastal community to sit by the sea and chill out.

• Visit the Thames Saturday market in Grahamstown followed by a visit to The Depot where you’ll find fine food and five boutique outlets including the Coromandel Distilling Company where you can sample their award-winning gin.

• Taste award-winning Gouda on the veranda at The Cheese Barn in Matātoki.

• Pose for a picture with the 7m L&P bottle in Paeroa.

• Explore Bullswool Farm Heritage Park, with its array of farm animals, museums, displays, and native bird reserve.

• Venture along the old walkways and forgotten tunnels that make up Karangahake Gorge.

• Relax in the Te Aroha hot pools.

• Te Aroha’s restored Edwardian Hot Springs Domain has mineral spas and swimming facilities.

In addition, the 1898 Cadman Bathhouse houses a museum.

• Mokena Geyser is the world’s only soda geyser and explodes every 40 minutes.

• Get off your bike and onto the Goldfields Railway vintage train

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•

•

•

for a ride between Waikino and Waihi stations.

Visit the historic Firth Tower Museum in Matamata and if you’ve arrived in a self-contained motor home, you’re entry fee allows you a free overnight park.

A goblet of ale awaits your arrival at The Green Dragon™ Inn in Hobbiton near Matamata.

Visit the Waihi Gold Discovery Centre where the gold heritage comes alive. Then wander across the street to view the working Martha Mine.

Walk the Martha Mine Pit Rim Walkway. The 4km loop starts at the Cornish Pumphouse and offers an overwhelming view down into the vast chasm.

Happy children statue, Waihi © Coromandel Tourism

T

Wonderful Waihi

he section between Paeroa and Waihi features an historic railway, including original railway bridges. Skirt the edges of Ohinemuri River and delve into old mining tunnels along the Karangahake Gorge. Pass the remnants of the Waikino Victoria Battery and imagine the roar it made in 1896 while crushing more than 800 tonnes of gold-bearing stone. In Waihi, discover The Secret Garden, a Bali inspired café and hangout

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as well as the fascinating Mosaic Garden, created by talented artist, Jude Morrah. For dreamy sun-soaked sand, perfect for lazy afternoons and picnics, Waihi Beach offers boutique shops and 9km of dazzling shoreline and one of the safest beaches in New Zealand for surfing. At the southern end of Waihi Beach sits the small settlement of Bowentown where you can embark on pleasant walks, explore former pā sites or enjoy safe, relaxed swims at Anchor Bay.

Golden Thames

Thames Coast © Coromandel Tourism

More mountain biking

T

he Hauraki Rail Trail is predominantly flat and gentle so you might like to up the ante with some rugged mountain biking at Te Aroha Mountain Bike Tracks near Te Aroha. Offering a oneway loop of grade 3 tracks, there’s also the option for a more advanced, grade 5 experience. Best for those who consider themselves a intermediate or advanced rider, soak up the bush scenery complete with streams and waterfalls as you hurtle downhill.

LEFT: Hobbiton © Destination Rotorua INSET: Te Aroha © Hauraki Rail Trail RIGHT: Adrian Worsley Gallery, Te Aroha, Hauraki Rail Trail © Coromandel Tourism

GREAT RIDE • HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

Once the largest town in New Zealand, in 1896 Thames’ pavements weren’t paved in gold, but they could’ve been, such was the abundance of it.

Grahamstown is the heritage end of Thames, with historic buildings dating back to the glory days. Discover artefacts at the Thames Historical Museum or try your luck at gold panning at The Gold Mine Experience, complete with self-guided tour, mining relics and steampowered machines. Visit the Thames School of Mines, one of New Zealand’s best-preserved mining schools in the heart of the Hauraki gold fields. Make the most of the guided tours on offer which bring this special Heritage New Zealand site to life, with captivating stories about the Hauraki area’s people and places. View spectacular sunsets along the Thames Coast Rd or stretch your legs on the three-hour return Thames Coastal Walk. Lesser known but equally rewarding is the threehour return Rocky’s Walk.

Hobbiton & Matamata

THAMES > see PAGE 33

Café & Shop OPEN 7 Days

BioGro Organic Cheese & Yoghurt.

Gelato & Sorbet made on site. Deli lines & Giftware.

Animal Farm and outdoor area.

4 Wainui Road, Matatoki, RD1 Thames Ph 07 868 1284 • www.thecheesebarn.co.nz

Okay, we’ll confess, Hobbiton is a fictional ‘top town’ but definitely worth a visit, especially if you’re a Lord of the Rings or Hobbit fan.

All Hobbiton™ Movie Set Tours depart from 501 Buckland Rd, a 15-minute drive from the Matamata i-SITE Visitor Information Centre (which is itself an adorable Hobbit House). Enjoy a two-hour guided Hobbiton tour complete with complimentary beverage at The Green Dragon™ Inn. If Hobbiton isn’t on the agenda, Matamata has plenty to offer. Visit the 153m-high Wairere Falls, the highest waterfall in the North Island; walk the 1hr 40min looped Matamata Heritage Trail or check out the Firth Tower Museum that was built in 1882. Absorb the region’s history in displays spread across 13 buildings, summit the tower and picnic under a cloak of oak trees.

WAIHI > see PAGE 32

123 Parry Palm Ave, Waihi +64 7 863 8461 +64 27 924 4472 info@palmmotelwaihi.co.nz

Tuscany on Thames Studio, 1 & 2-bedroom units. All units have hush glass, heat pumps/air-con, cooking facilities, dbl spa baths (except 2 access units), free high-speed fibre WiFi, 50+ SKY. Pool, free parking, guest laundry and bike storage. Being environmentally friendly is very important to us.

Tariff: $175-$235 (2 persons) BOOK DIRECT FOR BEST RATES 200 Jellicoe Cres, SH 25, Thames • P: +64 7 868 5099 • Reservations: 0800 559 560 E: book@tuscanyonthames.co.nz • www.tuscanyonthames.co.nz

300m to rail trail

• Studios, Kitchen Studios & Family Units G • Swimming pool & S outdoor spa pool • Spacious garden/ : barbeque area Z • Sky TV • FREE WiFi \ • 1km to town 4 • Secure bike storage

www.palmmotelwaihi.co.nz 33

WAIKATO RIVER Trails

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

TRAIL INFO

1-4 Days 104km

Waikato River Trails © Hamilton & Waikato Tourism

KARĀPIRO to ĀTIAMURI 1-4 days

104km

Off-road and upstream, this southwardbound trail traces the banks of New Zealand’s longest river: the mighty Waikato. A dot-to-dot trail of river dams strewn between great stretches of forest, wetland and rock, it’s a landscape engineered by both Mother Nature and mankind.

T

his Grade 3-4 trail does incur a good deal of alternating sharp ascents and descents, as well as approximately 600m of climbing, so a decent level of fitness is beneficial.

Cycle from Pokaiwhenua Bridge to Little Waipa Reserve on the edge of Lake Karāpiro and stop in Arapuni for lunch at The Rhubarb Café; a firm favourite with locals and visitors alike. Notable behemoths include Arapuni dam and later,

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BEST FOR: A ‘dam’ fine way to marvel at the brilliance of natural and human ingenuity.

Whakamaru dam and Maraetai dam. Awesome in the true sense of the word, there is beauty to be found in their concrete features.

At certain times of the year, Lake Maraetai appears to be swathed in snow, but it is the fallen fluffy seeds from surrounding poplar trees.

Mangakino boasts a distinct lack of development (there are no malls...) and the lakefront is a sleepy nugget of paradise, popular for boating, fishing, birdwatching and kayaking.

TRAIL GRADES: KARĀPIRO (POKAIWHENUA BRIDGE TO ARAPUNI) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) ARAPUNI (ARAPUNI TO WAIPAPA DAM) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) WAIPAPA (WAIPAPA DAM TO MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) MARAETAI (MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT TO WHAKAMARU DAM) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

Bridge the gap The bridges on this trail span from scenic to thrillingly high. The Arapuni Suspension Bridge is a staggering 152m long and 54m above the river.

Move onto Whakamaru, where, as well as the hydro dam, there is a dazzling sheltered lake. From here, push on to Ātiamuri, your final destination. Not wanting to be the odd one out, Ātiamuri also has its own power-producing hydro dam.

TOP TIP – This 104km track is split into five sections so you can do it all or pick your favourite part.

WHAKAMARU (WHAKAMARU DAM TO ĀTIAMURI VILLAGE) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Sometimes trail sections are closed due to logging operations. Before starting out, check www.waikatorivertrails.co.nz and respect closures and signage. Dogs are prohibited on many sections of the trail.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Mobile phone coverage is reasonably reliable on the Karāpiro, Whakamaru and Maraetai sections. It gets patchy beyond there, particularly on the Arapuni and Waipapa sections.

TYPE OF BIKE: Mountain bikes are recommended. E-bikes are also permitted.

WATER: Taps to fill your water bottles in the villages along the way, namely Arapuni, Mangakino and Whakamaru.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

MAP LEGEND open section start/finish point point of interest bridge i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets car park

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

camping accommodation state highway

ABOVE: Cycling Waikato River Trails © Jodi Sweetman Photography

WAIPAPA (WAIPAPA DAM TO MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT), 19.6KM This remote, fun section undulates in a generally uphill direction, with the occasional steep section giving it its Grade 4 rating. The trail follows custom-built singletrack and flowing forestry trails through a mix of exotic and regenerating native bush. Note that once on the trail, there’s no way off, except at Maraetai Dam.

MARAETAI (MANGAKINO LAKEFRONT TO WHAKAMARU DAM),12.3KM

© AA Traveller 2022

riding the trail Pokaiwhenua Arapuni Bridge

400m

11.5km

34.6km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Waipapa Dam 19.6km

Mangakino 12.3km

Whakamaru Dam

Ātiamuri

26km

200m 0m

KARĀPIRO (POKAIWHENUA BRIDGE TO ARAPUNI), 11.5KM From the Pokaiwhenua Bridge car park the first half of the trail follows an easy path beside the road, before winding beside Lake Karāpiro for the rest of the way to Arapuni. As the trail nears the village it crosses the Huihuitaha Wetland via 500m of boardwalk. This allows riders to pass through the area without damaging this special riparian habitat.

Even if you’re not heading to Arapuni’s

Rhubarb Café (highly recommended), it’s essential to experience the knee-wobbling crossing of the Arapuni Suspension Bridge. At 152m long and over 50m high, it’s one of New Zealand’s longest pedestrian (and cycling) bridges.

ARAPUNI (ARAPUNI TO WAIPAPA DAM), 34.6KM This section of trail starts at the Arapuni Swingbridge, after 2km it joins country roads through to Waipapa Dam, the route is well sign posted. The road section is

mostly sealed with a short section of unsealed road. The gradient includes some long steep climbs. Half way through this section is the Arohena conservation campsite, a good place to rest or camp.

On the opposite side of the Waikato River, the trail between Arapuni Dam to Jones Landing (4km) and Waipapa Dam to Mangarewa suspension bridge (10km) is also open however there is no continuous trail connecting these two areas. For those riding the whole trail the western route must be used.

This moderately technical leg is mostly an easy ride, but the occasional steep section ramps it up to Grade 3. It starts by climbing gently towards Whakamaru Dam with lovely views along Lake Maraetai.

Around the midway point is a graceful 70m-long suspension bridge crossing the Mangakino Stream. This leafy part of the trail has been beautified even further by the thousands of trees planted as part of the Waikato River restoration project.

WHAKAMARU DAM TO ĀTIAMURI, 26KM The southernmost section starts at Whakamaru Dam, although many riders actually start at the nearby Dam Café. The trail follows the lake edge, initially passing through Lake Whakamaru Reserve. Around midway, bluffs rise dramatically from the lake providing a stunning backdrop, while just shy of Ātiamuri is the magnificent and culturally significant Pōhaturoa Rock, lifted by volcanic forces and weathered by the elements over the millennia. The trail ends at a parking area in Ātiamuri Village, a common pick-up or drop-off point for shuttles.

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GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

t n e m o m a e k Ta e r u t a n f o y t u a e b e h t n o to reflect

Ride the five trail sections that follow New Zealand’s longest river through native bush, exotic forest, remote farmland, boardwalks, streams, suspension bridges and magnificent hydropower dams.

0800 874 978 www.waikatorivertrails.co.nz

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ADD-ON TRAILS CAMBRIDGE-WAIKATO RIVER CONNECTION: 40km/2–3 days. Links Cambridge with the Waikato River Trail.

CENTRE OF THE NORTH ISLAND: 50km/1 day.

Connects the Waikato River Trails and the Timber Trail.

Hamilton Mountain Bike Track is great for beginners or rusty cyclists. Tackle 10km of single track and Grade 2-3 terrain.

Cougar Mountain Bike Park near Tokoroa offers 35km of Grade 3-5 off-road forest tracks.

Te Miro Mountain Bike Park is 20min north-east of Cambridge and has a variety of Grade 2-4 single track trails.

Highlights of the trail • Countless riverside reserves provide the perfect spot for picnics and if you’re packing a tent, camping spots.

• Arapuni Suspension Bridge is 152m long, over 50m high and a total show stopper. Refuel at nearby Rhubarb Café.

• Detours to local pubs in small, hospitable towns such as Tokoroa, Putāruru and Maraetai are a must.

• Visit the Bus Stop Café on the Mangakino lake’s shore after a dip in the cool waters.

• Part of a 1000ha forest, Jim Barnett Reserve features several walking trails amidst rejuvenated forest. Keep an eye out for North Island robins.

• Soak up the picture-perfect beauty of Jones Landing, a small reserve with public toilets, playground, and due to all the boaties, a jovial vibe.

• Pōhaturoa Rock near Ātiamuri, stands 520m tall and is the result of significant volcanic activity more than 500,000 years ago.

CAMBRIDGE

Hamilton city © Adobe Stock

HAMILTON

GREAT RIDE • WAIKATO RIVER TRAILS

TE AWA RIVER RIDE: Winding its way for 65km from Ngāruawāhia to Lake Karāpiro, following the mighty Waikato, Te Awa River Ride combines boardwalks, bridges, picnic spots and stunning views. Add this trail to your Waikato itinerary.

Ancient Egyptian Garden © Hamilton Gardens

MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE

V

isit the award-winning Zealong Estate, New Zealand’s only tea plantation. Tour the estate, taste the leaves and enjoy a high tea or picnic in summer. Hamilton is rolling in green spaces, check out the 3.8km perimeter walk around Hamilton Lake or visit Hamilton Gardens. With free entry and a series of internationally themed gardens, you can visit the entire world in one afternoon. With its collection of 600-plus native and exotic animals, Hamilton Zoo is popular with families, and The Waikato Museum represents Māori as well as European history in fascinating detail. Visit the renowned Classic Museum for its huge collection of vintage cars and its retro American diner for a burger.

HAMILTON > see PAGE 37

Waikato Tracks & Trails

C

ambridge undoubtably took on English influence (the name is a slight giveaway), displaying a somewhat British aesthetic.

However, Kiwi characteristics by no means take a back foot; farm tours are available and bird sanctuaries such as Maungatautari offer guided tours to see such native species as takahē and tuatara.

Fortunately, Cambridge doesn’t borrow its weather from England so when the sun shines, Lake Karāpiro implores you to grab a stand-up paddleboard. For something niche, after-dark kayaking excursions result in a galaxy of glowworms, as does a trip to visit the Pokaiwhenua Stream. More biking? Watch the professionals practice or have a go yourself at the Grassroots Trust Velodrome.

BIKE HIRE E-BIKE HIRE CYCLE PACKAGES SHUTTLE SERVICE TO ALL TRAILS IN WAIKATO

www.riversideadventures.co.nz

CALL NOW TO BOOK

0800 287 448

With hundreds of kilometres of trail to discover, the Mighty Waikato is the perfect place for your next cycling getaway.

‘Must do’ rides include the Hauraki Rail Trail, the Timber Trail and Te Awa - The Great NZ River Ride.

waikatonz.com/cycling 37

WHAKAREWAREWA Forest Loop GREAT RIDE • WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST LOOP

TRAIL INFO

3-5 Hours 31km

TRAIL GRADES: Whakarewarewa Forest Loop © Graeme Murray

BEST FOR: Confident families and those stepping up their mountain biking adventures.

TE PŪTAKE O TAWA CAR PARK loop 3-5 hours

31km

New Zealand’s premier e-bike track takes in gurgling mud pools and active geysers while weaving through the shady Whakarewarewa Forest tracks. The combination of ups, downs, flats, hairpin bends and berms will keep you on your toes and smiling from ear to ear.

T

he newest addition to Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand is the Whakarewarewa Forest Loop,

38

comprised of three stages. The naturally gifted forest, also known the Redwoods, holds a wealth of history, culture, flora and fauna

and is beloved by both locals and visitors alike. The new purposebuilt trail takes in a spectrum of Rotorua’s sights.

At Te Pūtake o Tawa, five taonga represent the stories of ancestors (including Hinemoa and Tūtānekai) that are important to Tūhourangi people, mana whenua here. The artists of these pieces are local and direct descendants of the tūpuna depicted.

Between here and Te Ara Ahi, you’ll follow a historically significant path used by local iwi for hundreds of years before the 1886 eruption of Mt Tarawera destroyed the original forest, burying it under three metres of ash.

Along the Loop, there are several spots to stop and take in spectacular views. Lake Tikitapu makes a great spot for a refreshing swim, and the popular holiday park across the road sells snacks and drinks.

Following Te Koromete Tītokorangi, views open up to the north to reveal the glorious Lake Rotorua and its surrounding caldera.

TE PŪTAKE O TAWA TO TE ARA AHI Grade 2–3 (EASYINTERMEDIATE) A 14km ride taking 1–2.5 hours TE ARA AHI Grade 1 (EASIEST) A 8.5km ride taking 30 minutes WAIPA CAR PARK TO TE PŪTAKE O TAWA Grade 2 (EASY) A 10.5km ride taking 1–2 hours INFO: As Whakarewarewa is an active geothermal area and a working forest, all signage or detours must be heeded.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Mostly good but can get patchy around Tikitapu.

SAFETY: First aid service is provided by the First Response Unit operated by Rotorua MTB Club. Phone 0800 WHAKA (0800 942 521).

FOOD & WATER: Four water refill stations are marked on the map and on trail map boards.

Food can be purchased at Waipa and Te Pūtake o Tawa car parks, and the holiday park and café at Tikitapu. Days and hours vary.

TYPE OF BIKE: Mountain bikes or electric mountain bikes are required and can be hired at Waipa and Te Pūtake car parks, as well as bike shops in town.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

riding the trail TE PŪTAKE O TAWA TO TE ARA AHI, 14KM

TE ARA AHI, 8.5KM After exiting Baja, the loop heads towards Te Ara Ahi, a wide, smooth,

cruisy concrete path running parallel to SH 5, skirting around the edges of Whakarewarewa Forest as it returns towards Rotorua city and the Waipa car park area.

WAIPA CAR PARK TO TE PŪTAKE O TAWA, 10.5KM After Waipa car park, you’ll follow Te Ara a Whero across a purpose-built bridge for the loop. Upon reaching a grove of redwoods, the trail passes the bubbling mud pool for which this section gets its name, Te Pikitanga ki Whangapipiro. The climb here is the longest in the whole loop, but it only lasts a couple of minutes and sports a constant gradient and e-bike-

friendly uphill berms. The trail then enters Arepa Weherua, heading up Tokorangi Pā Rd and as you follow Te Koromete Titokorangi, views of Lake Rotorua and its surrounding caldera open up. As you continue to traverse the hill face, the trail becomes Tūhua. Past the water reservoir, descend to the pine forest via Kurawai ki Tarawera. After a fun couple of kilometres of single track, there’s a few hundred metres of road before you can decide to continue on the road for a quicker and easier option or veer off along Te Pou Koropū for an extra couple of kilometres of singletrack. Both options re-join at Te Pūtake o Tawa.

© AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND open section optional route start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre no cycling café/restaurant toilets camping car park accommodation drinking water thermal area state highway

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

600m 400m

Te Pūtake o Tawa car park

Waipa car park 21km

12km

Te Pūtake o Tawa car park

200m 0

39

GREAT RIDE • WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST LOOP

Starting at the Te Pūtake o Tawa car park, the loop begins with a couple of kilometres of wide gravel trail to reach the Feeder track, which you continue on. The next trail is Tangaroamihi, traversing the length of Lake Tikitapu before meeting the adjacent lake, Rotokākahi. At the signposted junction, you can choose to either hop onto the higher Te Kōtukutuku trail for the flowing single track, or take

the lower gravel Tikitapu Rd, that is 1.5km shorter overall. A short hill climb is followed by a downhill to Jeff’s Link, joining the route again at the bottom of Te Kōtukutuku trail. Rotokākahi is a private lake for cultural reasons, so please obey the signage and resist the temptation to head down to its shore. After a kilometre of road through a grove of redwoods, the route veers off towards Baja Trail.

Following a short climb, the trail descends on one of the most fun sections on the loop, and eventually meeting Te Ara Ahi.

Great

MTB SPOTS

GREAT RIDE • WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST LOOP

More mountain biking, please

W

e think Rotorua is one of the world’s premier mountain biking destinations, but if you don’t believe us, believe the industry’s star riders. Every March Rotorua hosts the international mountain bike festival, Crankworx.

Whakarewarewa Forest is one of the most established mountain

bike networks in New Zealand and well regarded for its whopping 180km of trails. Accommodating everyone, there are Grade 1-5 tracks which all loop around two central points: the Waipa car park and the visitors’ centre at The Redwoods. Short trails make up the core of the circuit and interlink with an outer, more technical section. With a steady supply of

Highlights of the trail

• Te Puia geothermal park is packed full of experiences to fill your day. From cultural performances and authentic hāngī lunches, to visits to the New Zealand Māori Art and Crafts Institute, where you’ll see flax weaving, greenstone and wood carving. It’s also home to the Kiwi Conservation

40

Centre and Pōhutu geyser.

• Secret Spot Hot Tubs are submerged in the Whakarewarewa Forest Park.

Book a private hot tub, sink in and order chilled drinks.

• Tuck in and drink up at one of Eat Streat’s, many lively spots, where there is usually some live music pumping.

shuttles and continual upgrades, this is a mountain biking forest that keeps every rider happy.

For a series of constantly evolving trails, you can’t go wrong at Redwood Forest Park. The tracks cover 130km of terrain and are divvied into several riding areas to suit every skill level. If you’re a fan of extreme downhill riding, Skyline Gravity Park is the world’s

• The surreal landscape of WaiO-Tapu Thermal Wonderland includes a lunar-like terrain, mud pools and coloured ponds. Find out how it is that the Lady Knox Geyser erupts at 10.15am daily.

• In Waimangu Volcanic Valley, self-guided walks range from 1.5km jaunts to 4.5km hikes, while the 45-minute lake cruise visits geothermal sites not accessible on foot.

• Discover the largest hot waterfall in the southern hemisphere at Hell’s Gate, then soak in the soothing mud spa.The kids will love the variety of hot spring pools at the Polynesian Spa, right in the city centre.

• At Waikite Valley Thermal Springs, water is supplied from the largest single source of 100 per cent pure geothermal water in New Zealand.

LEFT: © Waikite Valley Thermal Pools RIGHT, TOP: Waimangu Volcanic Valley © Destination Rotorua RIGHT: Glowworm tour, Rotorua © Real Rotorua

• Tuhoto Ariki Trail • Western Okataina • Te Ara Ahi • Rainbow Mountain • Hot X Buns • Skyline Gravity Park • Hatupatu • Tokorangi • Whirihaki MTB Trail • Te Pūtake o Tawa first all-season gondola-accessed mountain biking park, complete with an exhilarating 12km downhill course. Need more? The Rainbow Mountain Summit Trail is also a spectacular, albeit challenging, Grade 4 mountain bike loop.

ABOVE: Cycling at Skyline, Rotorua © Nick Lambert

GREAT RIDE • WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST LOOP

Ride New Zealand’s newest Great Ride

rotoruanz.com 41

Adrenalin Rush

Lake Rotorua © Mark Smith Photography

LOVABLE LAKES

GREAT RIDE • WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST LOOP

Taupō may have Australasia’s largest lake, but what the Rotorua region lacks in size it makes up for in numbers, with a staggering 18 freshwater lakes, 14 of which are easily accessible. The lakes are of volcanic origin, filling craters, calderas or valleys blocked by lava flows, and many are ringed by forest and farmland with fantastic walking trails. Lake Rotorua is the largest lake in the region, while the smaller Blue and Green lakes are just as impressive.

SKYLINE ROTORUA Ultimate downhill speeds can be achieved at the Skyline Luge, with three new tracks to conquer if you are already a seasoned rider.

up and hold on tight for a pulseracing ride through native bush in a monster 4x4 or race a 390cc 4-stroke kart on New Zealand’s longest outdoor circuit.

OFF ROAD NZ For an actionpacked, full-on adventure that’s extra fun, grab your mates and take a 20-minute drive from Rotorua to Off Road NZ. Buckle

AGROJET As fierce as it sounds, this is New Zealand’s fastest jet boating experience, delivering 3Gs of force, speeds of up to 100kmph and 360-degree twists.

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VELOCITY VALLEY Find giant sky swings, jet boats, aerodynamic racing pods, bungy jumps, simulated skydives and a soft freestyle airbag to practice your bike tricks.

ZORBING Rotorua invented ZORB (or zorbing), the bizarre yet thrilling sport of rolling downhill inside a giant, inflatable ball. It’s also the

only place in New Zealand where you can experience it.

WHITE-WATER RAFTING The highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world – the 7m Tutea Falls – can be conquered by white-water rafting down Kaituna River, 20 minutes from Rotorua.

Up in the treetops

Mamaku Forest’s southern nib tickles the Mamaku Plateau near Rotorua. A haven for both birds and birdwatchers, chirpy fellas include kaka, tui, bellbirds and more.

In the ancient forest of the Mamaku Plateau, Rotorua Canopy Tours has sympathetically built ziplines, swing bridges and tree-top walkways into the 1000-year-old forest.

While Rotorua Ziplines will take you soaring over the Ōkere Falls, whizzing through the treetops and across swing-bridges.

Redwoods Forest © Destination Rotorua

Rotorua Centennial Park, with barbecue facilities, toilets, picnic tables, is growing into one fine

woodland with its Maple Grove and Peace Memorial and cherry blossom trees at full spectacle in springtime.

Climb 12m into the treetops at Redwoods Treewalk in the Whakarewarewa Forest and weave through the giant trees via 23 elevated suspension bridges.

From dusk onwards, the lights at Redwoods Treewalk switch on for the enchanting ‘Redwoods Nightlights’.

Check out the new Redwoods Altitude and access 25 junglethemed bridges, you ascend a threestorey spiralling staircase wrapped around a giant redwood tree.

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GREAT RIDE • WHAKAREWAREWA FOREST LOOP

© Rotorua Canopy Tours, Ultimate

MOTU Trails

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

Motu Trails shelter © Mead Norton Photography

TRAIL INFO BEST FOR: A challenge steeped in reward, no matter what your ability.

ŌPŌTIKI to MATAWAI 1-3 days

121km

Many great things come in threes: musketeers, French hens and the Bee Gees. And if you’re a keen cyclist – the Motu Trails.

F

eaturing three wildly different rides, this year-round track can be completed as a full 91km loop or as separate sections, but this will depend entirely on your fitness and ability.

The Dunes Trail kick-starts the mission, starting from the Pākōwhai ki Otutaopuku Bridge (Memorial Park) in Ōpōtiki. Considered the easiest section of the three, a softly undulating pathway skims

Pākihi Track, Motu Trails © StudioZag

SEE P49 FOR CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDE 44

the edge of the Pacific Ocean, providing plenty of opportunity for seaside picnics and refreshing dips.

Enjoy this leisurely amble before entering the second phase of your journey. The Grade 3 Motu Road is an historic byway that will test your fitness. Diverting away from the coast, the mostly-unsealed road climbs to almost 800m via forest and farmland. Don’t be put off by the mention of road, this spectacularly remote section is seldom used by cars. You’re now on course for the third and most challenging section of the trail: the Pākihi Track. Buckle in for a sensational 20km Grade 4 trail that’s been weaving its way through these parts for over 100 years. Delve into mature forest and bushy backcountry terrain, follow the Pākihi Stream, navigating 25 bridges and, in places, exposed cliff edge. Know when to stop and walk short sections and be aware that bad weather can bring slips and windfalls.

TOP TIP – If you’re not inclined to conquer the hardest part, the Pākihi Track, stay on the Motu Road Trail then do the short side trip to spectacular Motu Falls.

1-3 Days 10-91km

TRAIL GRADES: DUNES TRAIL GRADE 2 (EASY) MOTU RD TRAIL GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) PĀKIHI TRACK GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Limited outside of Ōpōtiki, very patchy on the Motu Rd and nonexistent on the Pākihi Track.

REFRESHMENTS: Dunes Trail riders will readily find refreshments in Ōpōtiki and a shop midway along the trail.

Inland, there’s a shop in Matawai.

Motu Rd and Pākihi Track riders should be self-sufficient and carry plenty of water and food.

TYPE OF BIKE: Hybrid or touring bikes with knobbly tyres are fine for the Dunes Trail, but a mountain bike is recommended on the rougher Motu and Pākihi trails. E-bikes are welcome, so long as you have good battery capacity on the Motu Rd. You must be able to lift/ carry the e-bike on Pākihi Track.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

© AA Traveller 2022

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

MAP LEGEND open section

café/restaurant

start/finish point

toilets

point of interest

camping

i-SITE Visitor Centre

shelter

hill/mountain bridge

hut accommodation state highway

town

highway section

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail... Ōpōtiki 800m 600m 400m

Jackson Rd 20km Return

Jackson Rd

DUNES TRAIL

Toatoa 67km

Pākihi Track Junction

Motu Matawai

MOTU ROAD TRAIL

Motu Rd

Ōpōtiki 44km PĀKIHI TRACK

200m 0m

Highlights of the trail • Take a jet-boat tour along the Motu River combining thrills with historic sights.

• Visit the astounding Motu Falls.

• Ōpōtiki’s long sandy beaches are safe for swimming and little further down the coast, the bays are good for snorkelling.

• Ōpōtiki Museum is in an old bus station with two levels of old town relics and Māori artefacts.

• If you packed your rod, then you’ll find the rivers around Ōpōtiki are brimming with rainbow and brown trout for some choice fishing.

• Hukutaia Domain is 7km out of Ōpōtiki and home to a 2000-year-old pūriri tree known as Taketakerau. You can’t cycle in the domain but it’s a pleasant on-road ride to get there.

Hukutaia Domain, Ōpōtiki © Adobe Stock

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riding the trail DUNES TRAIL, 20KM RETURN

This easy trail is great for riders of all ages and abilities with a mostly wide, smooth surface and a total elevation change of only 100m along its entire length (200m when ridden both ways).

It starts at the graceful Pākōwhai ki Otutaopuku suspension bridge in Ōpōtiki’s Memorial Park Reserve. From here it undulates gently for 10km along the sand dunes east of town, with epic ocean and East Cape views and plenty of opportunities for picnicking on empty beaches or going for a dip. Jackson Rd, at the eastern end of the trail, marks the start of the Motu Rd Trail, although riders may wish to turn back at the 9km mark as the final roadside kilometre is largely unremarkable.

MOTU RD TRAIL, 67KM

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

The Motu Rd is best suited to fit riders who aren’t afraid of hills. Riding in the direction from Jackson Rd (near the coast) to the settlement of Motu, this route dishes up 1600m of climbing. It can be ridden in the other direction, of course, with the end-point of Matawai already 500m above sea level so there’s more downhill than up. Either way, it’s a pretty big effort that shouldn’t be underestimated. From Jackson Rd, the trail follows a quiet country road, mostly surfaced in gravel, up and over a highpoint of 750m+ above sea level.

Motu Trail – Dunes Trail © Neil Robert Hutton Photography

Traffic is generally very light but riders should always be on the lookout for cars and the occasional logging truck, especially around corners. Motu Rd formed part of the original coach road between the Eastern Bay of Plenty and Tairāwhiti Gisborne. You are riding through lush farmland and the remote bush country of the Raukumara Ranges.

It’s 24km – including a solid 6km climb up Meremere Hill – to the pint-sized settlement of Toatoa. Winding up through magnificent forest for another 14km riders reach the Pākihi Track junction, where the 91km-loop riders leave the Motu Rd. From there the road climbs steadily, with some well-earned views across ridges way back to the coast and Whale Island/Moutohorā, before a satisfyingly long downhill into the pretty Motu Valley. There’s welcoming accommodation here at the Community House as well as The Weka Nest, with scenic Motu Falls a worthy detour 5km away. A further 14km away on a quiet, slightly uphill, sealed road is Matawai, the inland end of this ride, and a popular spot for shuttle drop-offs and pick-ups.

Note that the Rere Falls Trail (a 103km Heartland Ride) links Matawai with Tairāwhiti Gisborne via quiet, country roads and highway.

PĀKIHI TRACK, 44KM

Originally a pack track cut in the

early 1900s, the Pākihi Track is now a wonderful 20km-long wilderness trail shared by bikers, runners and walkers. The advanced track is strictly mountain bike territory and should only be attempted by experienced riders.

Although not particularly technical, caution is advised – there are many dropoffs beside the track, while gravel, rocks and tree debris on the track can escalate the level of difficulty. The upper track also gets slippery after wet weather. For the safety of other users, it’s a one-way track for cyclists – do not ride up the track from the Pākihi Rd. The first 11km section twists and turns through magical forest dominated by tawa, tōtara, rimu and rewarewa, before reaching the Pākihi Hut around the half-way point. This is a great place to stop for lunch before heading onward. The stunning lower section

Extend your journey to untouched trails

Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne 46

starts by crossing Pākihi Stream via an impressive 35m suspension bridge, and then follows it all the way to the road end.

Along the way keep an eye out for native birds including the kererū (wood pigeon), tūī and fantails. If you are lucky, you may even see a kārearea (New Zealand falcon) or North Island robin. The cheeky North Island weka may also be heard calling out. At the car park, riders can rest a while at the massive picnic table built by trail volunteers from an old bridge. The last leg back to Ōpōtiki involves 9km on gravel road beside the river, followed by 10km on a country road and 4km along the Ōtara stopbank trail back into town.

It is highly recommended that you take a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) when cycling the Pākihi Track. PLBs can be hired from Ōpōtiki and Gisborne i-SITEs and from Cycle Gisborne.

Stingrays off the coast of Gisborne © Brook Sabin

Rail Bikes & Carts Hop onto a rail bike in Gisborne or Mahia, or coast the old rail tracks in a converted golf buggy in Awakeri for a quirky alternative adventure.

Explore more

Awakeri Hot Springs Soak away the day’s ride in these hot pools, attached to the holiday park. Ōhope Golf Course is wildly spectacular with ocean views.

Te Koputu a te Whanga Library and Exhibition Centre in Whakatāne is free to visit and packed with ever-changing exhibits and art displays.

Stingrays Snorkel or wade with wild stingrays on an ecology tour in Tatapouri, Gisborne.

Night Walks with Whakatāne Kiwi Trust The nation’s kiwi capital and home to over 300 wild kiwi.

Between April and June take a Friday night walk to spot them in their natural habitat.

Whakatāne is frequently dubbed the Sunshine Capital due to its reputation as one of the sunniest destinations in New Zealand. Make the most of this weather by taking a boat charter, fishing trip or a dolphin-spotting cruise and swim.

Beach and Bays – Ōhope Beach boasts 11km of sweeping gold-sand beach. West End in Ōhope is the ideal spot to learn how to surf.

It’s naturally sheltered from the wind, has warm water and gentle breaks. Picnic at the secluded bay

Moutohora Island is whale-shaped from afar. Get closer on a diving, fishing or sightseeing tour from Whakatāne to see its protected wildlife, including dolphins, penguins, seals, lizards and ancient tuatara.

Rere Rockslide Just 30 minutes inland from Gisborne, slide down Rere Rockslide. Polished into a smooth, 60m sliver of rock, this all-natural slide will induce screams and shrieks, before resulting in a satisfying splosh.

Cultural Encounters It was Tairāwhiti Gisborne where the Māori migratory waka, Horouta and Tākitimu first landed. Take a guided

4WD or hiking tour to see the Māori carvings at Mt Hikurangi, or admire the ornate interior of St Mary’s Church in Tikitiki, complete with Māori stained-glass windows.

Nature Cycle the trail connecting Gisborne and Wainui Beach or enjoy the peace at Hackfalls Arboretum, a mecca of rare trees and shrubs. Rustle up a picnic and take it to Eastwoodhill Arboretum where you’ll find the largest collection of northern hemisphere trees this side of the equator.

Sunrise Gisborne is the first place on Earth to see a new day. Spend the night in town and watch the sun rise over its eastern beaches.

Gisborne Railbike Adventure Jump back on the saddle for a tandem-style ride along disused railway lines, using two pushbikes fused together.

GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

If you have a little extra time up your sleeve, dabble in these regional must do’s and venture into Eastland.

of Otarawairere only accessible by sea or on foot. Ōhiwa Harbour is shallow and placid, allowing for easy kayaking.

Ōpōtiki’s Carvings As one of the first places for Māori settlers, Ōpōtiki’s carvings will give you a feel for the history. Book a guided walk with an historian for deeper insight.

Spectacular coastlines, incredible forests and awesome trails.

Ride beside the sea, through historic farmland and deep into the forest, on your choice of fantastic journeys.

MOTU ROAD

PAKIHI TRACK DUNES TRAIL l MOTU ROAD l RERE FALLS TRAIL

l

l

Email jim@motutrails.co.nz to have an information pack sent out. www.motutrails.co.nz

DUNES TRAIL

Opotiki district attractions and information: www.opotikinz.co.nz Contact Opotiki i-SITE 07 315 3031 70 Bridge St Opotiki

PAKIHI TRACK 47

O

nepū Mountain Bike Park is a 30-minute drive from Whakatāne and offers four main trails. Each one offers gentle rolling terrain that will suit most riders, while the BMX-style jumps will entertain those practicing tricks.

More mountain bike trails exist in Tairāwhiti Gisborne, close to Gisborne city. At Millmore Forest there are 15km of trails and forest road, maintained by Gisborne MTB Club. The easy trails make it a family-friendly experience, while the advanced areas offer good challenges. Whataupoko Mountain Bike Park is handy to Gisborne town centre, with 7km of walking and mountain bike trails right on the doorstep.

Ō GREAT RIDE • MOTU TRAILS

pōtiki, the gateway to teh East Cape, has long, unspoiled beaches to wander, forests to explore and rivers to ride. The pretty town’s main street is decorated with the work of Māori master carvers. Activities centre around the water with good rafting, jet boating kayaking, surfing, swimming and fishing. Enjoy good cycling on the Motu Trails, one of the Great Rides. The Dunes Trail is a 10km ride along the coastline.

Hukutaia Domain has a fine collection of native plants including a 2500-yearold sacred pūriri tree. Ōpotiki also offers easy access to Te Urewera’s remote, rugged, forest terrain. Visit

More mountain biking, please

Lake Waikaremoana – there’s a fourday hiking trail around the water’s edge for the adventurous.

MORE CYCLING The Warren Cole Walk and Cycleway follows the Whakatāne River, while Burma Rd is a 12-minute drive from Whakatāne and offers an easy to intermediate bike ride with incredible scenery.

Onepū Mountain Bike Park © Whakatāne District Council

ŌHOPE BEACH > see PAGE 47

Opotiki Holiday Park

39 Potts Ave, Opotiki Phone: +64 7 315 6050 Email: opotiki.holidays @xtra.co.nz

Accommodation: Relax in a rural setting only 200m walk to Opotiki town centre. Start of the Motu Trail on our doorstep, or we can arrange shuttle services.

Secure lock-up for bikes and group rates available. Choice of self-contained units, kitchen cabins, tent sites & motel units.

www.opotikiholidaypark.co.nz

ŌPŌTIKI > see PAGE 48

Eastland Pacific Motor Lodge

Wide range of accommodation options.

Great for groups, couples or single travellers.

WiFi, SKY Select. Exceptionally clean rooms.

Your friendly hosts: Linz & Jo Call today

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Features: Communal kitchen, metered showers, laundry, TV lounge, Freeview TV, Zenbu WiFi, swimming pool, playground and dump station.

Tariff: 2 persons $50-$120, sites from $20, seasonal rates may apply. Visa, Mastercard, EFTPOS.

P: 07 315 5524

44 St John St OPOTIKI www.eastlandpacific.co.nz E:info@eastlandpacific.co.nz

Tirohanga Beach Holiday Park SH 35, Tirohanga Beach, Opotiki Ph/Fax: +64 7 315 7942 Email: tmcamp@xtra.co.nz

Tirohanga Beach Holiday Park: the right place to start your Motu Trail Adventure.

We have a variety of accommodation & are situated on the Dune Trail to assist you in making this ride something to remember.

Don’t rush home; enjoy our beautiful beach & see what Opotiki has to offer.

One of the trail’s OFFICIAL PARTNERS. Tariff: from $18-$140. 2 persons $50-$140. Sites from $20. Seasonal rates apply www.tirohangabeachmotorcamp.co.nz

MATAWAI to GISBORNE

RERE FALLS Trail

1-3 days

Y

ou can bump along one of New Zealand’s most remote regions year-round and in either direction, but the Matawai to Gisborne route enjoys longer stretches of descents, including the 4km Wharekopae Hill, whereas the opposite direction requires some serious effort. Either way, the trail presents hillside, fertile flats and high-country farmland, connected via sealed roads and

easy gravel trails. As a 103km Grade 3 ride, experienced cyclists often like to complete this journey in one day, while others break it down into several. The trail is known for swimming spots which are heavensent when you’ve worked up a sweat.

Rere Rockslide is such a place: a 60m natural slide formed from polished rock. The embankments are perfect for leisurely picnics and nearby Rere Falls spills off a wide ledge into

a welcoming lagoon. For shady respite, Eastwoodhill Arboretum is a 135ha labyrinth of cool woodland, with both flat walkways and those that climb steeply to gain farstretching views.

The Tairāwhiti river plains are home to Gisborne’s finest wineries, and the city, near where this ride concludes on the coast, is not far. Eastern beaches are sure to warrant a celebratory dip in the sea.

Cycling by Rere Falls © Mead Norton Photography

BEST FOR: ‘Yee-har’ descents through rural back roads and bucolic scenery.

© AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND open section

holiday park/camp

highway section

café/restaurant

start/finish point

toilets

point of interest

car park

i-SITE Visitor Centre

accommodation

shelter

state highway

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

1000m

Matawai

Rere Falls 50km

13km

Eastwoodhill Arboretum 36km

Gisborne

500m

0m

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HEARTLAND RIDE • RERE FALLS TRAIL

Switching between wide open roads and countryside to natural landmarks that require closer inspection, time spent off the bike is just as rewarding as time spent on it.

103km

riding the trail The trail can be ridden in either direction – though you’ll get much more downhill by starting from the historic village of Matawai (linking to the Motu Trails) and ending your ride in Gisborne.

HEARTLAND RIDE • RERE FALLS TRAIL

From Matawai, you have 7km riding on SH 2 before turning off onto a quiet, rolling country road, peaking at an altitude of 600m. After another 7km, the road becomes gravel for the next 27km and features some solid climbs.

The spectacular scenery is a mix of highcountry farms, forested reserves and peaks.

The sealed road resumes soon before you reach Rere Rockslide and Rere Falls. A little further, Eastwoodhill, the National Arboretum of New Zealand, has a stunning display of exotic and native trees. Walking tracks offer an opportunity to see many rare and unique species; accommodation is available.

The trail carries on down to the fertile Tairāwhiti Plains, home to some of Gisborne’s finest wineries. From there, a mix of flat roads, and the Coastal Waipaoa River Trail, bring you to stunning beaches and the Gisborne foreshore.

Follow the Pacific Coast south to reach Hawke’s Bay and the Hawke’s Bay Trails.

For more information, check out: motutrails.co.nz

Off the saddle

T

he Rere Falls Trail starts (or ends) at the historic village of Matawai – a great place to stock up on any supplies you may need As you wind your way along this trail through wild landscapes, stunning views and past the Rere Rockslide, Rere Falls and the Eastwoodhill Arboretum, you enter one of New Zealand’s biggest grape-growing regions. Although famed for its chardonnay cultivation, Gisborne is no one-grape-wonder with white varieties such as gewürztraminer, viognier and pinot gris, plus notable merlot and malbec reds also prospering here.

Gisborne is a thriving and sunny centre with a port, unspoilt beaches, a Mediterranean-style climate and city sophistication. Culture is strong

and proud in this town where te reo Māori is widely spoken and the local polytechnic has the country’s leading contemporary Māori art course.

Tairāwhiti Museum & Art Gallery houses a historic collection and showcases art by local, national and international artists.

The annual Rhythm & Vines threeday New Year festival injects an entirely different type of culture into the city. Take a tasting-tour of the wineries and complete the day by sampling local seafood at a waterfront restaurant.

Some of the best surf beaches in the country surround Gisborne. Wainui Beach has consistent top-quality waves and you can cycle the 6km there for a day jaunt.

COOK’S FIRST LANDFALL The Cook Landing Site National Historic Reserve on Kaitī Beach Rd in Gisborne marks the place where James Cook first set foot on New Zealand soil. His statue can be found at the end of Waikanae Park and on Kaitī Hill, which is well worth the climb for the incredible views alone.

TRAIL INFO 1-3 Days 103km

TRAIL GRADE: MATAWAI TO GISBORNE GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) BE PREPARED: Always pack warm and weatherproof clothing as weather conditions can be unpredictable in the inland parts of the ride. You will be riding between mountainous conditions and a warm coastal breeze. There is a good selection of accommodation providers including farmstays at several key points. It is recommended that you arrange your overnight stays prior to departure. Cycle Gisborne offer a suite of tour options.

Rere Falls • TOP: Gisborne. BOTH: © Adobe Stock

Rere Rockslide © Tairāwhiti Gisborne

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Highlights of the trail

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE is good around Gisborne and the plains, but patchy or non-existent inland.

• Speed down the 60m Rere Rockslide on a bodyboard or inflatable. You can often pick one up discarded ones there.

• Rere Falls are just 500m from Rere Rockslide.

• Eastwoodhill Arboretum offer guided walks, jeep tours and overnight accommodation.

Exit via the homestead for high tea with home-made scones.

DRINKING WATER: There are limited services on the trail, so you are advised to carry sufficient water and food for the duration of your ride.

• Head to Tūranganui-a-Kiwa/ Poverty Bay Flats, also known as the Gisborne Plains, to visit leading many vineyards producing chardonnay, syrah and rosé. Also visit Waipaoa River Valley north west of the city.

• Gisborne Botanical Gardens are bright and beautiful with a large cactus collection.

TOP TIP: This trail is on road or easy trail. You can use a mountain, gravel or touring bike with sturdy tyres.

Certain sections (but not all) can be ridden on a road bike.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

THE TIMBER Trail

BEST FOR: Wilderness adventures into one of our finest, most untouched rainforests.

PUREORA to ONGARUE 2 days

85km

Timbeeeeeeer! The cry that once resonated through Pureora Forest came to a welcome end in the 70s when activists put a stop to forest felling. Within years, nature reclaimed the area.

B

efore 2013, when the Timber Trail officially debuted, Pureora Forest was little-known, but fast-forward ten years and this remote track, deep in the forested heart of the North Island, now offers total escapism for riders of every ilk.

The track snakes through spirited soils; a land where 800-year-old rimu and kahikatea trees tower 60m above the floor, and where one of the world’s rarest, last remaining podocarp forests remains intact.

The only indication of human

existence are 43 suspension bridges crossing streams and gorges.

The most exhilarating being the 141m-long Maramataha suspension bridge which drapes itself over the treetops like a spider’s web.

Other highlights include overnight stays at charming Blackfern Lodge, complete with its whio (blue duck) recovery programme, or the more intrepid Piropiro Flats’ campsite.

Close to the middle of the track and just after the Maramataha Bridge, you’ll strike a 3km uphill assault which is equal parts fatiguing and fulfilling, and is fortunately followed by a long downhill stretch on a former tramway.

TOP TIP – The trail passes through subalpine environment with a high point of 971m; take warm clothes and wet weather gear whatever the forecast. Check timbertrail.nz for trail status

GREAT RIDE • THE TIMBER TRAIL

SEE P 59 FOR A CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDE

TRAIL INFO 2 Days 85km

TRAIL GRADES: PUREORA TO PIROPIRO – GRADE 2-3 (EASY TO INTERMEDIATE) PIROPIRO TO ONGARUE – GRADE 2-3 (EASY TO INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE & SAFETY: Mobile phone coverage is patchy and cannot be relied upon. Service is good near the Mt Pureora summit; signage along the trail indicates other hot spots. Some accommodation offers WiFi. Riders are also encouraged to carry a personal locator beacon, first aid kit; and notify someone of estimated arrival times.

DRINKING WATER: Minimal water stops along the trail, which includes drinking water from a stream. Although the water is clean you may choose to carry water purification tablets.

ADD-ON TRAILS TIMBER TRAIL CONNECTION: 24km/2 hours – Quiet back roads allow riders to bridge the gap between the southern end of the Timber Trail and the main service town of Taumarunui, without a shuttle.

TYPE OF BIKE: A mountain bike is essential for the remoteness and terrain. Riders should ideally have basic mechanical skills and carry a 2tool kit.

GRADE (EASY)

CENTRE OF THE NORTH ISLAND: 50km/1 day – Linking the Waikato River Trails to the Timber Trail. Take the small detour to a monolith that marks the geographic centre of the North Island.

ABOVE & TOP: © TimberTrail.NZ

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

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MAP LEGEND open section optional route walking track train ride start/finish point point of interest bridge hill/mountain café/restaurant

GREAT RIDE • THE TIMBER TRAIL

toilets camping shelter car park accommodation state highway

© AA Traveller 2022 © The Timber Trail

riding the trail Pureora 1000m 800m 600m

First Shelter

8.5km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Ongarue

Piropiro 31.5km

45km

400m 200m 0m

PUREORA TO PIROPIRO, 40KM The Pureora trailhead and car park is well signposted from SH 30. It winds its way through the bird-filled, virgin forest of Pikiariki Ecological Area. Not far from the start, a short detour leads to a 1920s Caterpillar crawler tractor, long-since abandoned in the bush and now preserved as a rather peculiar memorial to the area’s logging past. After passing through an open area of regenerating native and exotic trees, it’s a gradual climb up the flanks of Mt Pureora into the ethereal Cloud Forest with its verdant moss, gnarled trees and wafting mist.

A ‘whoop!’ or two is well deserved at the trail’s highpoint, 971m above sea level. It’s predominantly downhill for the rest of the day as the trail winds down the southern side of Mt Pureora and across the western flanks of the Hauhungaroa Ranges. There is the

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occasional lookout on the descent.

Around the 22km mark is the first of the trail’s amazing suspension bridges, the 115m one over Bog Inn Creek. This is quickly followed by another biggie, the 109m-long span over Orauwaka Stream. The trail continues downhill to Piropiro Flats where there’s road/shuttle access and accommodation – a DOC campsite, Camp Epic, the Timber Trail Lodge, and epic Black Fern Lodge a few kilometres away. In the summer months, Piropiro has a particularly special atmosphere as a stream of bikers, walkers and hunters bring this usually quiet area to life.

PIROPIRO TO ONGARUE, 45KM The trail heads off on a logging road before re-entering native forest on a flowing section of gently climbing uphill singletrack. Around 5km

in (at the trail’s 44km mark), the Maramataha Suspension Bridge swings into view. At 141m long and 53m high it’s not only an icon of the entire Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails, but also a thrilling experience with its wobbly crossing over a tumbling gorge. The bridge signals the start of the last major climb – the steady ascent to Ongarue Tramway terminus, the final station of the original Ellis and Burnand Tramway. From here the trail follows the old tramway in a generally downhill direction, with the occasional short uphill. In places, the tramway cuts through sheer rock faces shrouded in thick native bush, seldom reached by the sun’s rays.

Scattered along the way you’ll see remnants of the area’s logging past, and cross more bridges including the handsome 89m-long Mangatukutuku Suspension Bridge – a great spot for a picnic. Around 10km from the end is

the Ongarue Spiral. The finer points of this engineering marvel are explained in the interpretation panel alongside, but suffice to say that it’s pretty loopy with the bonus of a spooky old tunnel.

It is also truly unique, being the only bikeable railway spiral in the world.

The trail continues to Ongarue, mostly downhill except for a couple of short pinches along the final section through felled forestry blocks and farmland. At around the 82km mark you will pass Bennetts Rd car park where you can be collected by pre-arranged shuttle.

Fit riders can cycle an extra 26km to Taumarunui via the Ongarue Back Rd, the undulating and farmy Timber Trail Connection Heartland Ride that forms part of the world-famous Tour Aotearoa. This is a pleasant and possibly essential option for those who haven’t arranged shuttle collection back to town.

ITINERARY ENHANCERS: The Timber Trail is on the doorstep to many great places.

WAITOMO IS LIT Waitomo Glowworm Caves host the biggest concentration of glowworms in the country. Jump on a guided boat tour or try rock climbing through the caverns; abseiling, ziplining or tubing in pitch-black water. There’s also the small but astonishing Aranui Cave, with its mass of white, pink and brown stalactites, as well as Ruakuri Cave, a former sacred burial ground.

GET MORE IN TAUPŌ Visit the

SHIMMY INTO WHANGANUI NATIONAL PARK Home to

The Whanganui River Journey, a New Zealand Great Walk which involves little walking and instead, multiple days of kayaking down the Whanganui River. Also here is the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail which

• Camp Epic is a glamping ground in Piropiro just off the main track and where total wilderness meets soothing hot showers. Other accommodation along the way include Timber Trail Lodge and Blackfern Lodge.

• Created from old logging tracks, information panels detail the trail’s history.

• There are 35 bridges including eight suspension bridges. The daddy being Maramataha

will lead you to the handsome Bridge to Nowhere.

MAKE TIME FOR TE KŪITI

Proud of their sheep shearing heritage, there’s a giant 7.5-ton shearing statue at the town’s entrance. Visitors should also see the Tatsuno Japanese Garden with its Azumaya tea house and dazzling array of plants.

TAKE ME TO TARANAKI There are few places where cone-shaped Taranaki Maunga isn’t seen or felt.

Located in Egmont National Park, hikes criss-cross the landscape or to its summit. At sea level, Surf Highway 45 is a 105km stretch of road between New Plymouth and Hāwera divided only by surfy beach towns. Also home to 17 gardens of national or regional significance, New Plymouth’s contemporary art gallery, the Len Lye Centre, and the Forgotten World Highway. Visit the charming town of Hāwera and pay a visit to the Elvis Presley Museum and the Tawhiti Museum. You’ll be dazzled by their quirky collections.

Suspension Bridge: 141m long and 53m high.

• The Ongarue system was built to help timber trams ascend and descend the terrain. Consisting of a lower bridge, a curved tunnel, a circle of track and overbridge, it’s now great for bikes.

• Podocarp trees such as rimu, kahikatea and totara are numerous and birdlife flourishes.

• Visit the adorable Nevalea Alpacas in Ōngarue.

HĀWERA > see PAGE 53

• Opening hours on website • Cafe on site

GREAT RIDE • THE TIMBER TRAIL

10m-high Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings by boat tour or kayak. The rapids at Huka Falls are deafening, the geothermal energy at Craters of the Moon is immense and the highest water touching bungy in the country is here.

Highlights of the trail

With nine tourism awards to its credit, Tawhiti is now considered one of New Zealand’s most innovative historical presentations. Its lifesize figures, smaller scale dioramas and vast collection of artifacts is simply like no other.

401 Ohangai Rd, Hawera. Phone: +64 6 278 6837 TAWHITI MUSEUM email: info@tawhitimuseum.co.nz Museum website: www.tawhitimuseum.co.nz

The number one adventure ride in the North Island!

For expert service and insight, book with our official trail partners

timbertrail.nz/organise

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GREAT LAKE GREAT RIDE • GREAT LAKE TRAILS

Trails

Epic lake views © Cam McKenzie

BEST FOR: Epic lake views – towering volcanic cliffs, lush native bush, deep gorges, sparking waterfalls.

WAIHAHA to WHAKAIPO BAY 1-3 days

84km

If the idea of riding the rim of a super volcano isn’t enough, then perhaps the promise of volcanic gorges, waterfalls and beautiful beaches will get you on the saddle. With switchbacks and speedy descents, the Great Lake Trails is not only scenic, it’s seriously good fun.

Highlights of the trail • Kawakawa Bay is small, but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in aesthetics.

• A 20-minute drive from Taupō town is Kinloch. Collect supplies from the Kinloch Store or grab fish and chips to enjoy lakeside. Three of the four trail sections are accessed from here, so it makes a good base.

• Kinloch Club is an awardwinning golf course designed

by Jack Nicklaus.

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• The large rocky overhang at Echo Rock looms over the trail like a frozen stone waterfall.

• Uphill slogs provide elevated views of Lake Taupō and the mountain peaks in Tongariro National Park.

• In the Waihaha section, discover a secret waterfall hidden deep in the Waihaha Valley and some secluded swimming spots.

• Summer swims in the pretty bays are must.

A

s the result of one of the biggest volcanic eruptions in history, Lake Taupō’s enormous crater is lined with pumice which has created free-draining soils meaning all-season terrain and year-round riding. This Grade 3 trail straddles the north-western corner of Lake Taupō and is split into three sections comprising the Waihaha, Kawakawa and Whakaipo sections.

Each section is easily accessible from the lively hub of Kinloch and can be ridden in various combinations, or tackled all-in-one over the course of one to three days. Those taking on the entire stretch tend to work from the west to the east. Depending on your chosen route, shuttles may be required. There is now a choice of water taxis to transport cyclists to four points along the trail with a water taxi service taking trail users back to Kinloch or Taupō town!

Built for mountain bikers by mountain bikers, the trail is heaven for fans of single-trail riding, while the epic view over the lake and distant volcanoes offer a welcomed distraction.

Expect long downhills as well as few challenging climbs, plenty of switchbacks and gorgeous little bays beckoning you in for dips.

TRAIL INFO

1-3 Days 84km

TRAIL GRADES: WAIHAHA SECTION GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) KAWAKAWA SECTION GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) WHAKAIPO SECTION GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good coverage close to Kinloch on the Whakaipo and Headland Loop; but be prepared for areas of no coverage on other parts of the trail.

DRINKING WATER: Be selfsufficient and carry enough drinking water for the entire trip.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is recommended.

Electric mountain bikes are also welcomed.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

More mountain biking, please The 42 Traverse is known as the greatest mountain bike ride in the North Island, while the Rotary Ride traces the Waikato River for 6km all the way to Huka Falls. The Craters Mountain Bike Park is located on the outskirts of Taupō in Wairākei Forest and also connects to the Rotary Ride. Families tend to like the Huka Falls to Aratiatia Dam Trail.

TOP TIP – Riding the Waihaha section then taking a water taxi to Kawakawa Bay, Kinloch or Taupō is one of the best days out ever. All water taxis must be prebooked.

hill/mountain

camping (Note: fully self-

boat/water taxi route

café/restaurant

accommodation

start/finish point

toilets

state highway

bridge

car park

i-SITE Visitor Centre

contained campers only)

riding the trail Waihaha Bridge

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Waihora Bay

30km

© AA Traveller 2022

Whangamata Rd car park 9.8km

Kawakawa Bay 9.2km

Whangamata Rd car park Otaketake Trail 11.1km

Kinloch

Whakaipo Bay

13-22.5km

600m 400m 0m

Waihaha Section

WAIHAHA SECTION The start of the Waihaha Section is a 40min drive from Kinloch at the Waihaha River car park off SH 32. The trail ends at the remote Waihora Bay, requiring a water taxi to rejoin the Great Lake Trails at Kawakawa Bay or return to Kinloch or Taupō town. If you have your own transport, the best way to tackle this section is to get a shuttle from Kinloch or Taupō town to drop you off at the trail start; the water taxi will then drop you off back at your car. Riders without transport should ask a local bike tour operator to sort their shuttle and the boat. Whatever you do, don’t let the logistics deter you – this is considered by many riders to be the best day out on the trails. Seriously fit and eager riders can make the logistics easier by self-driving and riding the trail as a 60km return trip. Another option is to cut the ride short after 13km by cycling up a farm trail (Waihaha Rd) back to Western Bays Rd. The first half of this ride follows the Waihaha River high above a pretty gorge cloaked in native bush. Rocky outcrops command grand views over the volcanic landscape, with the spectacular Tīeke Falls a major highlight. The second half of the ride is equally scenic as it meanders around the lake edge. Highlights include rocky

ravines, cliff-top lookouts across the lake to the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park, the mysterious Echo Rock, and the trail’s descent alongside Kōtukutuku Stream with its gushes and waterfalls.

The trail ends at Kōtukutuku Landing in tranquil Waihora Bay where you can go for a dip while you wait for your boat. Note that a popular option from here is to get dropped off by the boat at Kawakawa Bay, for the lovely 10km ride through to Kinloch.

KAWAKAWA The Kawakawa sections of the Great lake Trails can be started at Kinloch or the Ōrākau car park off Whangamata Rd, a 20min drive from Kinloch. Self-drivers are advised to park at Kinloch and get dropped off. The Ōrākau Trail from Whangamatā Road to Kawakawa Bay also makes a nice short ride, suitable for family groups and inexperienced riders. A gentle down hill ride that ends in a fun water taxi trip back to Kinloch. From the car park, the trail winds virtually downhill all the way to the lake on flowing single trail, passing through wetlands and regenerating forest and over boardwalk and ravines. Beautiful Kawakawa Bay marks the halfway point and is a great place to stop for a snack and a dip in the lake’s clear waters.

There’s also a shelter and campsite here, which makes bike- packing an option

Kawakawa Sections for riders prepared to carry their tents and equipment. It’s a 3km climb via switchbacks to get out of the bay. Then it’s a long, flowing descent towards Kinloch with plenty of eye-popping views across the lake to the western bays. The Otaketake section opened late in 2019, this brilliant link can be ridden one way, return, or combined with the K2K Trail for a fabulous 32km loop. To reach the start of the Otaketake Trail from Kinloch, head west along the K2K for 3km where the new trail leaves the lakeshore to wind gently up through the Otaketake Stream Valley.

It’s a fun 10km, featuring native bush, delightful birdlife, and spectacular viewpoints around the Lake Taupō area. After emerging from the bush, it’s another 2km of riding beside a country road to reach the Ōrākau car park on Whangamata Rd. You can start riding from here, rather than Kinloch, of course. The 32km loop combines the Otaketake with K2K, with anti-clockwise riding popular for providing the best ‘reveals’ around the lake edge. It’s also worth noting that combining these trail sections with Whakaipo Section gives the longest contagious ride on the Great Lake Trails – 46km of awesome riding with an optional 9.5km on the Headland Loop to take it to the next level.

WHAKAIPO The popular Whakaipo Section can be ridden in either direction but – despite its name – is most commonly started in Kinloch. From there the options are either to ride to Whakaipo Bay (13km) and return to Kinloch via water taxi or shuttle (Whakaipo Bay has a basic DOC campground for self-contained campers only and is accessible by road); ride as far as the top of the headland and circuit the popular Headland Loop (20km in all); or ride to Whakaipo Bay and back (26km) with the option of adding in the loop (9.5km). From the Kinloch marina, the trail climbs steadily through native bush onto the headland to meet the aptly named Headland Loop. This 9.5km trail is optional but, with stunning views out to Tongariro National Park and the Kaimanawa Ranges, it would be a shame to miss it!

Where the Headland Loop trail rejoins the main trail it’s a fast and flowing descent to pretty Whakaipo Bay, popular with swimmers, picnickers and boaties. Return the same way or await your water taxi. Once again, this ride sees you finish in Kinloch where you can enjoy an ice cream or a meal, and watch the comings and goings in the marina.

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GREAT RIDE • GREAT LAKE TRAILS

MAP LEGEND open section

MOUNTAINS TO SEA NGĀ ARA

Biking the Ohakune Old Coach Road © Visit Ruapehu

TŪHONO GREAT RIDE • MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS

TRAIL INFO THAT PLACE MTB PARK

SEE P 59 FOR A CONNECTING HEARTLAND RIDE

BEST FOR: Enjoying the connected pathways that navigate riders from Tūroa to Whanganui, create an adventure to suit.

TŪROA, OHAKUNE to WHANGANUI 1-6 days

231km

(32km river)

Start your Mountains to Sea – Ngā Ara Tūhono adventure at Tūroa skifield. Local tour operators will deposit you 1700m above sea level on the lofty slopes of Mt Ruapehu.

Relish the distant views of Mt Taranaki before releasing the brakes for an exhilarating descent back to Ohakune.

I

t’s from here the actual leg work begins. Ngā Ara Tūhono, means connected pathways of which there are currently ten (two more under construction), parts of which require a boat ride to get across the almighty Whanganui River. The trail is typically completed in four

56

to six days but if you’re hard-core, two to three days is not unheard of.

You can also enjoy each section as separate adventures.

There are eerie yet enticing tunnels and long-forgotten viaducts, including the impressive 284m-long Hapuawhenua railway viaduct.

This 50ha private park off the Kaiwhaiki Road on the way to Whanganui was built by mountain bikers for mountain bikers. Offering coaching and guiding also.

Gain an insight into post-war life all along the Mangapurua Track, culminating in the fascinating Bridge to Nowhere. This handsome feature marks the route’s last stamp of civilisation before all hopes of settlement were abandoned. The nearby Mangapurua Landing is your launch pad to reach Pipiriki by jet boat. Alternatively, swap the pedals for paddles and navigate this stretch of the Whanganui River by canoe; your bikes travel ahead by shuttle. Once reunited with your wheels, the River Rd leads all the way to Whanganui City, via artist studios, flour mills and convents.

Clapping eyes on the Tasman Sea signifies the end of your journey, but the final hurrah should include watching the sunset at North Mole.

TOP TIP – An alternative connection is to ride from National Park up the short hill to Fishers Track which links Kaitieke and Whakahoro via an interesting gravel ride up Oio Rd. The trail then heads into Whanganui National Park along the Grade 4 Kaiwhakauka single track (upgrades in progress) before rejoining the Mangapurua Track at the Pou, where you can choose to cycle towards the Bridge to Nowhere or back through the Ruatiti Valley.

1-6 Days 231km (32km river)

TRAIL GRADES:

OHAKUNE MOUNTAIN RD GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) OHAKUNE OLD COACH RD GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) RUATITI RD & MIDDLE RD GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MANGAPURUA TRACK GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) Please check trails status for current conditions.

MANGAPURUA LANDING TO PIPIRIKI (32KM RIVER RIDE) WHANGANUI RIVER RD GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) UPOKONGARO TO TASMAN SEA GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good around Ohakune, National Park and Whanganui. Cannot be relied upon in outlying areas and is virtually nonexistent in the wilds of Whanganui National Park.

DRINKING WATER: Available in towns and settlements along the trail; water sources on the backcountry sections but boiling or treating is recommended. Taking sufficient supplies for the full day is preferable to filling up en route.

TYPE OF BIKE: A mountain bike is essential for all but the most urban of rides. Note: E-bikes are permitted on all parts of the track, however riders must be capable of lifting their bikes onto narrow bridges, or riding through the trail in the event the battery fails.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

Mangapurua Valley in which a series of old farm sites are signposted. You will pass remains of original settlements and the iconic Bridge to Nowhere. From the bridge, it’s only 3km to the Mangapurua Landing, where you will start your jet boat/kayak journey down the Whanganui River. This section of the trail is seasonal and maybe weather affected so do check mountainstosea.nz/trailstatus for updates.

MANGAPURUA LANDING TO PIPIRIKI, 32KM RIVER RIDE

WHANGANUI RIVER RD, 67KM

© AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND trail section

hill/mountain

alternative route

café/restaurant

boat/water taxi route

toilets

AA Centre i-SITE Visitor Centre

camping shelter hut

start / finish point

accommodation

point of interest

state highway

bridge

riding the trail 1200m 1000m 800m 600m 400m 200m

Tūroa Ohakune Mangapurua Track Horopito 16km 15km

48km

OHAKUNE MOUNTAIN RD, 16KM

From Ohakune town, local shuttles ferry you up to Tūroa skifield, 1700m above sea level on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. It’s an exhilarating 1000m descent back to Ohakune along 17km of sealed road.

OHAKUNE OLD COACH RD, 15KM

One of New Zealand’s best half-day rides, following an historic byway.

From the Ohakune Rail Station, the first few kilometres follow Old Station Rd and Marshalls Rd before reaching the trailhead where a series of info panels retell the Coach Rd’s fascinating story.

Wind up along the old cobbled road

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Bridge to Nowhere 36km

Pipiriki

North Mole Whanganui

boat

32km

into Tongariro National Park passing through ancient forest with giant rimu and tōtara, spiky mountain cabbage trees, ferns and feathery toe-toe. A highlight is the beautifully restored 284m Hapuawhenua railway viaduct. The trail then reaches Taonui Viaduct, smaller and in a state of rusty repair. The trail emerges from regenerating forest into a pretty meadow near the trail’s end at Horopito.

RUATITI RD & MIDDLE RD, 45KM

Ruatiti Rd and Middle Rd link the Ohakune Old Coach Rd section with the start of the Mangapurua Track. Overall, the ride is downhill, losing around 400m in elevation over 45km. However, some steep climbs make it best suited to fit

86km

cyclists. From Horopito, follow the trail official signage for 30km along Middle Rd and up Ruatiti Rd to the Ruatiti Domain (camping and toilets) along the meandering Manganui o te Ao River.

The gravel road climbs along the valley for the final 15km to the start of the Mangapurua Track.

MANGAPURUA TRACK, 36KM

From the trailhead at the end of Ruatiti Rd, the trail climbs through farmland and regenerating native bush to the junction with the Kaiwhakauka Track. It’s a little more climbing to reach Mangapurua Trig, a great spot to stop and take in the views. It’s downhill virtually all the way from the trig, the trail wending through the remote and rather beautiful

Quiet rural riding through an interesting slice of New Zealand history, stopping at Hiruhārama/Jerusalem to explore or stay at the convent, explore the historic Kawana Flourmill or a bite to eat and a chat at the Matahiwi Gallery. Marae and other settlements make this a delightful section of riding. The river road ends with the fairly hefty climb over Aramoana Hill and a well-deserved 3km swoop down to the junction of SH 4. It’s another 3km again to Upokongaro village.

UPOKONGARO TO TASMAN SEA, 19KM

From Upokongaro, the trail crosses under SH 4 to the new Upokongaro bridge. It then follows the new cycle trail by the river into the city filled with creative distractions. The riverside boardwalk detours into backstreets before returning to trace the river to the Tasman Sea. Keep an eye out for the cycle trail signage to keep on track. The trail ends at newly renovated North Mole, beside a moody, driftwood-strewn beach on the northern side of the Whanganui River breakwater.

Head back to the city along the same route or explore the bohemian suburb of Castlecliff with its café and galleries. A day or so in Whanganui is a great way to bookend your journey.

Please see mountainstosea.nz for official trail status updates. Please note: • Mangapurua may revert to advanced after heavy rain, check before departing.

• Shuttles and accommodation across all sections.

ALTERNATIVE START: NATIONAL PARK VILLAGE TO MANGAPURUA TRIG, 68KM From National Park and Ride follow Fishers Track (Grade 2) down through bush into the Retaruke Valley and along gravel roads to the Kaitieke Horse monument at the junction of Upper Retaruke and Oio Rd. Continue along Oio Rd to Whakahoro (Blue Duck Station) and the Kaiwhakauka Track (Grade 4). Travel through farmland before joining the official trail at Mangapurua Track. This route is slightly shorter but does include a Grade 4 section.

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GREAT RIDE • MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS

There are two ways of getting to Pipiriki, neither of which is on a bike! The easiest and most common is to be collected by the prebooked jet boat for the invigorating 32km buzz down the river (bikes stowed on board).

OHAKUNE > see PAGE 58

Highlights of the trail

GREAT RIDE • MOUNTAINS TO SEA TRAILS

Ohakune TOP 10 Holiday Park

A beautiful bush setting with the mountain stream flowing freely along the Park offering a truly tranquil camping experience.

0800 825 825 5 Moore Street, Ohakune ohakunetop10.co.nz

Motels | Units | Cabins | Sites BBQ Area • Playground • WiFi • Spa Bath • Spa Pool • Games room • Close to the Ohakune Old Coach Rd & Mountains to the Sea cycle trails

WHANGANUI NATIONAL PARK > see PAGE 58

Jet Boat Tours | The Lodge | Canoeing | Mountain Biking | Tramping

• Ohakune Meet like-minded riders (of snow and trail) in this buzzy township, swapping tales at Kings, the Powderhorn pub or any of the many eateries.

• Te Awa Tupua – Whanganui River is a special place where the people have always been connected to the heartbeat of the river. Row a canoe, book a jet boat or skirt the embankment by bike.

• During your descent of Mt Ruapehu, there are several walking tracks that lead to jaw-dropping waterfalls: Mangawhero Falls (aka Gollum’s Pool and Ithilien) and the highest one in Tongariro National Park – Waitonga Falls.

• The Bridge to Nowhere is 38m high and enveloped by verdant bush. There’s a picnic bench, history boards and enormous eels

ADD-ON RIDES Mountains to Sea Connection: 45km/3–4 hours Ohakune–Taihape Trail (OTT): 77km/5–7 hours Freephone 0800 480 308 or 06 385 4622

Three Rivers: 60km/1-2 days Whanganui to Hunterville

skulking in the water below.

• The 284m-long Hapuawhenua railway viaduct is 45m high and skims the treetops.

• Visit the reconstructed colonial cottage and museum at Kawana Flour Mill. Built in 1854 and since restored showcasing its original waterwheel and grinding stones.

• Salvaged from the bottom of the Whanganui River, the restored paddle steamer Waimaire provides leisurely river cruises from Whanganui city.

• Fishers Track is a bonus 27km, Grade 3 course through Tongariro National Park. It’s not an easy 2-3 hours, but it does reward the bold with beauty.

Kaiwhakauka Track is for the true masochist. This 16km track is two to four hours of Grade 4 pain with narrow, technical tracks.

TOP NATIONAL PARKS Explore two of New Zealand’s famed national parks: Tongariro, a volcanic wonderland, and Whanganui National Park, home to wild native bush and an even wilder river.

Bookings are essential | Tours depart from Pipiriki | info@bridgetonowhere.co.nz | www.bridgetonowhere.co.nz

Ride the connected pathways from Tūroa to the Tasman Sea.

For local experience and service book with our Official Trail Partners

mountainstosea.nz/organise

58

Mountains to Sea to Sea

Nga Ara Tuhono

Farm sheds at Ahititi on the Forgotten World Highway © Rob Tucker

HEARTLAND RIDE • FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY CYCLE ROUTE

TOP TIP – This trail provides access to two Central North Island Great Rides, the Timber Trail and Mountains to Sea Trail, both accessible via other Connector Rides, the Timber Trail Connection, MTS Connection and the Ohura Connector.

FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY Cycle Route

BEST FOR: A traditional Kiwi way of life that has remained undisturbed for centuries.

TAUMARUNUI to NEW PLYMOUTH 2-3 days

180km

With a name as intriguing as the Forgotten World, how could you not be interested?

Discover a pocket of Aotearoa that is little influenced by outside distractions and where remoteness is bathed in pristineness.

MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE! • Cycle the mountain bike track along the Old Whangamōmona Rd to the Bridge to Somewhere (sister bridge to the Bridge to Nowhere).

• Lake Mangamāhoe Mountain Bike Park sits on the southern edge of New Plymouth with tracks ranging from easy to advanced.

• Taranaki Cycle Park is a purpose-built complex with pump tracks, skills area, learners’ pad, two off-road courses and a velodrome.

• Stratford Bike Park opened in 2022 and features a kid’s cycle track with a miniature replica Glockenspiel tower and working traffic lights.

D

on’t be fooled by the immediate seclusion; even though your route, the SH 43, feels like the quietest state highway in New Zealand, this trail is by no means a doddle. Constant hills with a total ascent of 2017m, rugged farmland and gravel roads will exhaust both your bike tyres – and your derrière! You’re in for a demanding Grade 4 challenge from beginning to end.

Highlights along the way include historic tunnels, some with wooden gabled roofs and ceilings lined with fossilised shellfish; the remote township of Whangamōmona which is its own republic (complete with passport stamp) as well as challenging saddles and a sense of total abandonment. Here you can fully detach yourself from the real world, and while you will be travelling mostly by road, keep an ear out for vehicles and an eye out for rambling goats!

Finally, the award-winning New Plymouth Coastal Walkway brings civilisation back into cognisance, forging a route into New Plymouth proper, but not before dazzling new arrivals with its epic surf and kinetic artwork.

TRAIL INFO

2-3 Days 180km

TRAIL GRADES: ALL GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) TAUMARUNUI TO TAHORA SADDLE, 77KM TAHORA SADDLE TO PŪRANGI, 45KM PŪRANGI TO NEW PLYMOUTH, 63KM MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is very limited along most of the route.

DRINKING WATER: Whangamōmona offers the only easily accessed water once en route.

TYPE OF BIKE: Although the route mainly follows sealed roads, the rougher gravel sections mean a touring bike or mountain bike with wide road tyres or knobbly tyres are most suitable. E-bikes, with sufficient battery capacity, are also acceptable.

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

59

riding the trail HEARTLAND RIDE • FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY CYCLE ROUTE

TAUMARUNUI TO TAHORA SADDLE, 77KM From Taumarunui, SH 43 heads over hilly farmland for 30km or so before climbing over Paparata Saddle. It then drops down into the beautiful Tāngarākau Gorge, cloaked in native forest.

This is followed by 12km of gravel road.

Although this is relatively smooth, it’s not always an easy ride on road bike tyres, especially when the road has just been graded.

Beyond the gorge there is a moderate climb to the Moki Tunnel (known locally as the Hobbit’s Hole) and over Tahora Saddle.

TAHORA SADDLE TO PŪRANGI, 45KM It’s a long and gentle downhill ride to the settlement of Whangamōmona where you’ll find the Whangamōmona

Highlights of the trail Hotel and Bushlands Campground. Not only charming and full of rural history, it stakes a claim as New Zealand’s only independent republic, and celebrates that fact every second January.

Heading south from the ‘republic’, the route turns off the state highway and heads west on Junction Rd. The first 16km of Junction Rd is gravel, and requires wide road tyres or mountain-bike tyres.

Junction Rd passes through several original settlements, including Pūrangi, where accommodation is available in the original schoolhouse. The road is narrow, quiet and scenic. You will need to watch out for goats, sheep and cattle wandering along the verge.

PŪRANGI TO NEW PLYMOUTH, 63KM

The route continues over Tarata Saddle, through another picturesque tunnel, and

• Trundle down the Forgotten • Nip into some of the galleries or check World Railway in a self-driven rail out public art as your trail crosses the cart.

Coastal Arts Trail.

• Ride through Moki Tunnel.

• Taumarunui is your gateway to • Wind Wand is on the 12.7km New Whanganui National Park and Plymouth Coastal Walkway. home to top kayaking and trout • Visit New Plymouth’s museums, fishing. acclaimed surf beaches, the • When in season visit Lauren’s esteemed Govett-Brewster Art Lavender Farm and Bradleys Gallery.

Garden. down to a historic suspension bridge across the Waitara River.

The ride leaves the very best for last, as the route now becomes a shared path through Bell Block and around the coast where you will enjoy some spectacular views as you head into New Plymouth.

Known as the New Plymouth Coastal Walkway, this award-winning 12.7km pathway winds along the edge of the Tasman Sea, past epic surf breaks and dynamic kinetic art. You can take a 30-minute stroll from the central city to

Breakwater Bay, a bustling coastal precinct alongside Ngāmotu Beach.

New Plymouth has plenty to offer the visitor, including Egmont National Park, surfing, a boat cruise out to the Sugar Loaf Islands, plus dining and shopping in the bustling urban centre. Breakwater Bay is also a great spot to see a stunning west coast sunset.

For riders cycling from the Timber Trail, a safer scenic route is to use the Ohura Connector Heartland Ride. For more info, visit timbertrail.nz/ohura-connector

MAP LEGEND open section

town

AA Centre

café/restaurant

start / finish point

toilets

point of interest

car park

hill / mountain

accommodation

i-SITE Visitor Centre

state highway

tunnel

© AA Traveller 2022

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

400m 300m 200m 100m 0m

60

Taumarunui

87km

Whangamōmona

93km

New Plymouth

HAWKE’S BAY Trails

BEST FOR: Savouring the views, enjoying the company and satisfying your taste buds.

WINERIES RIDE, WATER RIDE and LANDSCAPES RIDE 1-4 days

200km

Celebrated for its vineyards, Hawke’s Bay doesn’t solely accommodate wine aficionados; whatever your disposition, this region delivers.

O

n the trail you can enjoy handmade cheese to the richest of ice cream, the coffee is to die for, and long, languid lunches and dinners are almost a condition of entry. And if your interests lie in the arts, nature and outdoors, Hawke’s Bay has that covered, too.

With mile upon mile of mostly flat gentle terrain, coastal trails, picnic spots, great surf and idyllic swimming holes, you’re invited to earn this array of indulgences.

Easiness prevails here. With nearly 200km spread over three unique rides, enjoy the year-round

TRAIL INFO Mediterranean-like climate. Pick and choose from mostly flat off-road routes, that don’t go above Grades 1 to 3. Even the littlest of legs can give it a whirl and playgrounds litter the routes.

With this variety of trails offering different experiences to enjoy, you’ll want to stay a few nights. There are endless ways to plan your journey into multi-day itineraries by utilising the region’s vast bike hire, cycle tour and accommodation options.

And if you need a break from the saddle the region features a multitude of attractions, from the National Aquarium, mini-golf or golf, gannet colonies, museums, galleries, Splash Planet Water Park, Te Mata Peak and shopping centres – such is the magnificence of this region’s offerings.

You can even ride directly from Hawke’s Bay Airport; the trails are literally out their front door.

TOP TIP – Soothe tired cyclist thighs at Napier’s Ocean Spa on Marine Parade. These outdoor hot pools stay open late.

1-4 Days 200km

TRAIL GRADES: WATER RIDE GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY) WINERIES RIDE GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY) LANDSCAPES RIDE GRADE 1-3 (EASIESTINTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Available on whole trail network.

DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements along the way.

TYPE OF BIKE: Suitable for everything from children’s bikes and uprights, to tourers, mountain bikes and e-bikes. Trikes, tandems and wheelchairs are also suitable for some sections, especially the 22km waterfront stretch from Bay View to Clive.

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

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GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

© Hawke’s Bay Trails

MAP LEGEND trail sections road sections start/finish point point of interest AA Centre/Service i-SITE Visitor Centre bridge hill/mountain town café/restaurant

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

toilets car park accommodation state highway

© AA Traveller 2022

riding the trail WATER RIDE

Napier i-SITE 200m

Napier i-SITE Taradale Taradale 33km 18km

100m

PUKETAPU LOOP

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LANDSCAPES RIDE

WINERIES RIDE Hastings Golf Club

Hastings Golf Club

Clive

Clifton

Havelock North

33-45km

20km

35km TUKITUKI RIVER

0m

WATER RIDE, 90KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST)

The Water Ride encompasses the flat, easy trails surrounding the city of Napier. A 22km concrete section from Bay View to Napier and onto Clive is suitable for all recreational users including wheelchairs. Inland following the estuary, you can explore pre-earthquake history, a working farm, while traversing conservation land, to learn about the wetlands, teeming with estuary birdlife. The ride then takes you up the Tūtaekurī River to Puketapu Pub and back to Waitangi Regional Park.

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WINERIES RIDE, 45KM GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY)

The loop around the Gimblett Gravels, Ngatarawa Triangle and Bridge Pā is a great way to get a taste of some of the Bay’s worldclass chardonnays, Bordeaux-style reds and syrah. Around a dozen wineries line the route; some have cellar-door dining – ring ahead to check opening hours and make bookings. Refreshing craft beer or cider is a short detour away, either at Roosters Brewery, on Omahu Road or a short detour up the road from Fernhill to Zeffer Cidery. Roys Hill Reserve or Hastings Golf Club are good places to start or from Clive riding along the Ngaruroro river trail.

LANDSCAPES RIDE, 55KM GRADE 1-3 (EASIEST – INTERMEDIATE)

The Landscapes Ride explores the picturesque coastal communities of Clive, Haumoana, Te Awanga and Clifton, before connecting with the village of Havelock North. The coast section of the trail borders the pacific ocean connecting you to the iconic Te Kauwae-a-Māui/Cape Kidnappers.

Travelling inland the river section of the trail explores the Tukituki Valley, traversing the foothills of sleeping giant ‘Te Mata; and into the quaint Havelock North Village.

PUKETAPU LOOP (SECTION OF WATER RIDE), 18KM GRADE

1-2 (EASIEST-EASY)

The Puketapu pub is a popular lunch destination on this excellent short loop from Taradale, on the outskirts of Napier. The trail follows the banks of the pretty Tūtaekurī River, attractions including a historic church, pā (Māori fortified village), gallery and chocolate factory café, plus plenty of spots for picnics and swimming.

Around the halfway point, Puketapu village is a rewarding pit-stop with its popular country pub, and a store next door serving ice creams. Riders wanting a longer outing can start at Waitangi Regional Park, on the coast and cycle upstream for 10km beside the Tūtaekurī River to Taradale. continued on p.63

continued from p.62

CLIVE TO CLIFTON (SECTION OF LANDSCAPES RIDE), 15KM GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY) Starting at the township of Clive, this short but intensely picturesque section of the Landscapes Ride hugs the Pacific Ocean, passing through Waitangi Regional Park and coastal communities along the way.

Highlights of the trail include wetlands, vistas of Cape Kidnappers across the bay, local cultural and heritage art installations, wineries, cafés, a popular surfing spot and even a farmyard zoo. Arguably the ride’s best feature, however, is accessed from the seaside hamlet of Clifton – gateway to Cape Kidnappers. The gannet colony, with the birds in residence from October to March, is viewable on either a 3–4hr guided tour; or by hiring fat bikes from a depot at Clifton.

• Warm up your muscles pre-ride at Napier’s Ocean Spa Hot Pools.

• All sorts of chocolate marvels are made in front of patron’s eyes at Silky Oak Chocolates found in Napier.

• Ātea a Rangi Star Compass is a series of large Māori carvings that form a striking Celestial Circle to represent traditional Māori navigation methods. Located in Waitangi Regional Park, a short drive from Napier.

• Head to the Ice Creamery on Heretaunga St in Hastings and sit amongst the roses and fish ponds while you enjoy an iconic Rush Munro’s ice cream.

• Origin Earth is an artisan cheese factory in Havelock North. Pop in for cheese tasting and a wedge of something punchy for your picnic.

• Venture a little off trail to find the Waiohiki Creative Arts Village: an art studio, workshop and gallery.

• Visit the coastal suburb of Awatoto and watch the model airplanes soar overhead.

• Large swells rolling in from the east make the surf at Te Awanga fantastic. Grab a coffee at a

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nearby café or feed the alpacas at Hawke’s Bay Farmyard petting zoo.

Discover Wetlands rich in native birds. Stop off at the bird hides and spy a myriad of species.

Cape Kidnappers peninsula is home to the largest gannet colony in the world (gannets can be seen from September to early April). Visit at your own risk and check warning signs.

The sunny Hawke’s Bay is one of New Zealand’s oldest wine regions and home to a multitude of vineyards.

The wine region produces numerous grape varieties, with chardonnay being the most widely planted. Hop onto a Coastal Wine Cycle Tour.

The little settlement of Puketapu is home to a traditional country pub with excellent meals, a general store with delicious ice creams and a great kids’ playground.

Te Mata Peak park boasts seven looped walking tracks offering spectacular 360 degree views from the summit.

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

Landscapes Ride © Hawke’s Bay Trails

Highlights of the trail

NAPIER > see PAGE 64

11 Storkey St, Napier P +64 6 843 9126 P 0800 457 275 kennedypark.co.nz

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unique experiences in HAWKE’S BAY

Parade. Jutting into the water is the Napier Viewing Platform with views of the Pacific Ocean. For something strenuous, Bluff Hill Lookout is a steep walk from the city centre, but the views are worth the puff.

ATTEND THE NAPIER ART DECO FESTIVAL If you’ve ever yearned to live in the glitzy Great Gatsby era, here’s your chance. Every year, over five fabulous days in February, Napier’s streets erupt with hundreds of art deco events.

concrete and French oak.

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

Visit Napier, one of the larger cities in Hawke’s Bay. Following a 1931 earthquake, Napier rebuilt itself into the cool coastal city that you see today.

VINTAGE ART DECO TOURS Almost as plentiful as the wine is Napier’s art deco scene. For the ultimate experience, book a guided tour around town in a striking 1930s classic car.

UNIQUE WINE TASTING Marvel at the giant-sized fermenters at The Urban Winery, Napier. Home to Tony Bish Wines, his cellar, located in the National Tobacco Company art deco building (known as the ‘Rothmans’ building) harbours huge egg-shaped wine barrels made from

DO TIME Provided with an audio device, you’ll be hanging on the narrator’s every word at Napier Prison. Built in 1862, this former penitentiary has stories to tingle your every vertebrae. Finger printing and mugshot photographers keep the mood light for children.

WALK IT OUT Stroll along Marine

Come to Hawke’s Bay for the best cycle trails, best food & best wineries.

We offer fun, easy scenic rides on dedicated cycle trails - do it over 1, 2, 3 or 4 days of cycle touring.

Contact us today.

GET ARTSY Admire the public art installations that speckle Te Mataua-Maui Art and Heritage Trail. The pathway traces the cycleway to Cape Kidnappers, passing the Haumoana and Te Awanga.

HAVELOCK NORTH Seek out the Keirunga Gardens that boasts a 846m-long miniature train.

Afterwards, head 10 minutes out of town to Arataki Honey Visitor Centre and discover what makes a queen bee tick. Grab a bag of sugar-loaded lollies from Birdwoods Gallery and Sweet Shop in Havelock North.

HASTINGS Pick up a self-guided walks’ brochure from the Info Centre or head to the City Art Gallery which is stoically guarded by Ngā Pou O Heretaunga: 18 Māori carvings.

Catch a film at Focal Point Cinema.

MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE! Hawke’s Bay is notoriously flat but there are still plenty of places for mountain bikers.

Pan Pac Eskdale Mountain Bike Park With more than 100km of tracks and five different sections for every skill level, this is one of New Zealand’s largest mountain bike parks.

Taradale Dirt Park and Pump Track Located beside the Pettigrew Green Arena in Taradale, this small dirt jump park is free to use and best for beginners and intermediates.

Napier Pump Track Stationed on Marine Parade next to the Rotary Pathway, this all-weather park is both free to use and super convenient for those staying in central Napier.

Te Mata Peak What goes up, must come down. At the top of Te Mata Peak there is a sign indicating a 2km downhill mountain bike track. As you can imagine, it’s steep, fast and if you’re a thrillseeker, a lot of fun.

Napier buildings on The Esplanade © Adobe Stock

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAILS GENTLE ANNIE: 136km/2 days Linking to the Hawke’s Bay Trails (as well as two other Heartland Rides: Route 52 and the Taihape Trail), this remote winding road was originally used by Māori.

ROUTE 52: 202km/2 days Linking Hawke’s Bay to the Wairarapa region, long stretches of riding pass through farm and towns.

• ­­35 units • Pool • Spa • Self-contained units • Overlooking estuary • 200m to beach • LCD TVs, 50+ Sky channels • FREE WiFi • Air-con/heat pumps in every room

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0800 TAKARO | info@takarotrails.co.nz www.takarotrails.co.nz | Ahuriri, Napier

• Walk to Ahuriri bars & restaurants • Secure bike storage • Cycleways • Cycleway metres from the motel • Friendly service guaranteed

56 Meeanee Quay, Westshore, Napier • Phone: +64 6 835 5991 Email: info@albatrossmotel.co.nz • RESERVATIONS: 0800 25 22 87 Always book direct for Best Rates www.albatrossmotel.co.nz

GREAT RIDE • HAWKE’S BAY TRAILS

A new experience whatever path you choose visit hbtrails.nz

65

MANGAWEKA to PALMERSTON NORTH

MANAWATŪ Cycleway

2-3 days

115km

HEARTLAND RIDE • MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY

There is more to the Manawatū Cycleway than first meets the eye. Tracing the quiet, backcountry roads connecting Mangaweka to Palmerston North, the colours somehow seem brighter here; the hues vivid and more defined. This off-the-beaten escape is not just a bike ride, it’ll completely re-establish your connection with nature. © AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND open section AA Centre start/finish point point of interest hill/mountain i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets camping car park accommodation

A

full two days is recommended to experience the Manawatū Cycleway, allocating plenty of time to stop and absorb the scenery, or to bunker down for the night at a farmland retreat. Every inch of this cycleway offers something retina-pleasing. The dazzling-white cliffs of Mangaweka defy the usual conventions of mountain peaks, instead, topping their creamy papa rock faces with a verdant green frosting. Nearby, Ruahine Dress Circle Reserve, so called for its opera-house aesthetics, offers an idyllic spot for picnics and swimming, and the Mangahuia Wetlands are so lush, one full inhale and you’ll feel replenished.

For glowworms, detour onto Table Flat Road. In autumn, the entire Pohangina Valley turns gold, while in summer, roadside blueberry picking is not only nostalgic, it makes for a great snack, too. The bijou townships of Rangiwahia and Āpiti throb with community spirit, and once you arrive in the bustling city of Palmerston North, a mecca of street art and sculpture, museums, history and culture awaits.

state highway

TOP TIP – Sticky from a full two days of cycling?

The Palmerston North i-SITE has hot showers.

BELOW: Totara Reserve, Pohangina River © ManawatuNZ.co.nz

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

600m 400m 200m 0m

66

Apiti

Mangaweka 45km

Ashhurst 55km

Palmerston North 20km

riding the trail

MANGAWEKA TO ĀPITI, 45KM

ĀPITI TO ASHHURST, 55KM

On from Āpiti, head back up Ōroua Valley Rd and into Pohangina Valley East Rd. There are some amazing photo opportunities as you wind your way down into the Pohangina Valley, especially in autumn when the foliage turns gold. In summer, look out for blueberry picking and swimming spots in the river.

From Āpiti, it’s 26km to Springvale Gardens & Accommodation, or 35km to Totara Reserve campground.

Tararua Traverse: 67km/1 day A challenging route over the Tararua Ranges. Check for closures: sections by taxi may be required.

The Country Road © ManawatuNZ.co.nz

This area is rich in native bush and has a good range of bush walks for all abilities.

Head down past the historic Komako Church and you will find Totara Reserve, a playground of native bush, glowworm caves, swimming holes and campsites with great facilities.

Another 12km on from here is Raumai Reserve, a great place to cool off in the river; there are also restrooms here.

Ride the trail down the road and turn left onto Pohangina Rd (on weekends, a 5km detour into Pohangina Village is worthwhile to visit County Fayre, a community-run tea room and heritage display site.

Continue down Pohangina Rd for 8km to reach Ashhurst. Stop for coffee and baked goods from the local cafés or grocery shop, picnic on the village green, or explore Ashhurst Domain where there is camping available. Ashhurst Inn offers all day dining and good accommodation.

ASHHURST TO PALMERSTON NORTH, 20KM

From Cambridge Ave, turn left onto SH 3 (Napier Rd). Continue down and pull off to the left before the bridge, then ride down under the bridge and onto the first section of the Manawatū River Pathway.

You’ll ride along for 3km before turning right onto Raukawa Rd, bringing you back out onto SH 3.

Turn right and head along SH 3, keeping to the shoulder for 2.6km then turn left onto Te Matai Rd. Follow Te Matai Rd until Riverside Dr. Turn left down Riverside Dr and at the end of this road is the second section of the Manawatū River Pathway.

You’ll follow a gentle, undulating path that follows the Manawatū River into Palmerston North city for 6km.

At the Fitzherbert Ave Bridge, take the path under and around the bridge to the right (where you can detour into the stunning Victoria Esplanade gardens and Wildlife Recovery Centre) and head up Fitzherbert Ave. It’s just 2km to The Square.

For a longer cycle, carry on another 1.5km along the river pathway to the new He Ara Kotahi bridge which will take you across the Manawatū River, along boardwalks and through native bush to Linton Military Camp (5.6km). For a shorter 3.8km cycle, you can do the Fitzherbert Avenue Bridge to He Ara Kotahi Bridge Loop.

Palmerston North i-SITE has luggage lockers and showers and can arrange your bookings while providing you information on your next stop.

‘Palmy’ has plenty to offer the visiting cycle-tourer, including street art and a sculpture trail, plus Te Manawa Museum of Art, Science & Heritage and the New Zealand Rugby Museum. It’s also great for

Highlights of the trail • Te Parapara Rd is particularly scenic, but no photograph does it justice. Seeing is believing.

• Swim at the secluded Ruahine Dress Circle Reserve: waterfalls bathed in native forest.

• Found in an old dairy factory, the Rangiwahia Environmental Arts Centre (REACT) reuses and upcycles almost anything into artwork.

• For handcrafted cheese from

the Pohangina Valley, the Cartwheel Creamery is open for sales and tastings, by appointment only so call ahead.

• Travel 35km west of Palmerston North to the coast and eat fish and chips on Hīmatangi Beach, watch the sun set and then enjoy a twilight walk.

• Pack a picnic and laze around the lake at Mangahuia Wetlands.

• Palmerston North ‘s Victoria

Esplanade public garden offers rose gardens, barbecues, aviaries, croquet lawns and a miniature railway.

• Detour one hour from Apiti for a 600m walk to Limestone Creek where there are caves, arches and glowworms.

• Manawatū Gorge Scenic Reserves brims with swimming spots, horse trekking and various walks.

dining, with a range of cafés, restaurants and pubs dotted throughout the central city centre.

TRAIL INFO

2-3 Days 115km One-Way

TRAIL GRADES: ALL GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MANGAWEKA TO ĀPITI, 45KM ĀPITI TO ASHHURST, 55KM ASHHURST TO PALMERSTON NORTH, 20KM MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is available in most places but not along the whole route.

DRINKING WATER: There are a number of settlements where you can fill your water bottle. River water should be boiled or treated.

TYPE OF BIKE: Road bikes and touring bikes are best suited for the terrain.

E-bikes are also suitable. Riders should ideally have basic mechanical skills and carry a tool kit and spares.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

67

HEARTLAND RIDE • MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY

Ride past the Mangaweka Campground and over the bridge where you will be greeted with the impressive sight of soaring white papa (mudstone) cliffs and magnificent cobbled river terraces. Stop off at Awastone Riverside Café for a coffee and bite to eat (open August to April).

Just 12km from the start of Ruahine Rd, you will find Mairenui Rural Retreat.

Be sure to check out the Ruahine Dress Circle Scenic Reserve. This swimming and picnic spot off Lagoon Rd sits on a river bend and is surrounded by cliffs and dotted with waterfalls. Early settlers named the spot the dress circle because the cliffs reminded them of an opera house. The turn-off is 11km south of the Mangaweka Bridge.

Rangiwahia is only 10km from Mairenui. It has public toilets, campsites, free WiFi and interesting stories to tell.

Get back on the road and head down Te Parapara Rd. Be sure to savour the views along this particularly scenic stretch.

Lush farmland with the Ruahine Ranges as a backdrop greets you as you enter Main South Rd. Stop for a break at Mangahuia Wetlands, a series of ponds that are home to native birdlife and trout.

Heading along Main South Rd, you’ll travel through the dramatic Mangoira Gorge.

After the Gorge, you can take a detour by turning into Table Flat Rd (gravel) for some great panoramic views of the region and the Limestone Creek Reserve glowworm caves Back on Main South Rd, continue down and detour onwards into Āpiti for a meal at the Āpiti Tavern and camping at the Āpiti Domain.

ADD-ON HEARTLAND RIDE

HEARTLAND RIDE • MANAWATŪ CYCLEWAY

Make the most of Palmerston North Bike Rides: If you’re missing the saddle, jump back on for a skedaddle around the city. Skirt the banks of the Manawatū River on a 10km riverside jaunt or step it up a gear on the Grade 3 Turitea Loop Track.

ABOVE: Cuba St, Palmerston North © ManawatuNZ.co.nz

Beer: Grab a cold one at Brewers Apprentice, or head to Brew Union on Broadway Ave for 21 taps all pouring the gold stuff. Just 30 minutes south of Palmerston North is the iconic Tui Brewery, featuring its recognisable brick tower, brew house, tours, café and free museum.

Mangaweka At Mangaweka, the Mangaweka Adventure Company and campgrounds are the gateway to the playground of the Rangitīkei River, which is popular for river rafting and kayaking.

In summer (and by special arrangement in winter) the fully licensed Awastone Café offers relaxed riverside dining with impressive views.

Offering top-notch food and a warm welcome, the Apiti Tavern is a great place to rest and refuel before the next leg. The Totara Reserve between Apiti and Ashhurst has good camping facilities surrounded by a large native forest. Bush walks, nature trails with glowworm caves and great swimming spots are all good reasons to spend some time here.

In Ashhurst, make sure you stop off at The Herb Farm, with its family-friendly gardens, day spa and great café. In summer, pop into the Ashhurst Domain for a swim in the Manawatū River. Te Apiti Wind Farm is always worth a look, affording a great view of the Manawatū and Wairarapa beneath the massive wind turbines.

Mangaweka Adventure Company and Awastone © Destination Manawatū

Nudging the banks of the Manawatū River, maximise your downtime in Palmerston North.

Mountain Biking: Palmerston North is jam-packed with mountain biking areas. Arapuke Forest Park (Grade 2-5) is the city’s premier mountain bike park for all skill levels but if you’re a total beginner, stick to the Jack Frost trail. In the surrounding Manawatū District, there’s Te Ara O Mahurangi (Grade 4) which is technical and downhill, as well as Takapari Rd (Grade 4-5) which climbs high into the Ruahine Range. For epic downhill mountain biking, try Kohitere Trig (Grade 3-4) in Kohitere Forest.

Museums: Te Manawa Museum of Art, Science and History is a must-do, with engaging exhibits that reflect the history in a way that’s meaningful to all ages. Right next door is the New Zealand Rugby Museum. You’ll find some of the world’s rarest rugby artefacts here.

The Square: With its striking clock tower and manicured lawns, The Square offers a peaceful sanctuary for everyone. The Māori name is Te Marae o Hine and within its borders there’s a pond, giant chess set, Māori carvings, interesting statues and scores of ducks. Come Thursday, The Square hosts a Food Truck Street Feast, with music and meals from around the world.

Street Art: In January 2020 a bevy of local and international artists were invited to help paint 20 murals emblazoned across the CBD. There now exists an impressive array of street art to soak up with both your eyes and your camera. Pick up a map from the Palmerston North City i-SITE to find the larger-than-life creations in all manner of unexpected places.

Download the Street Art App to reveal their whereabouts.

PALMERSTON NORTH > see PAGE 68

154 Park Road Palmerston North

Phone - +64 6 356 7077 Fax - +64 6 356 7030

WATCH VIDEO

3 Safe bike storage 3 Close to Manawatu River Bridle Track 3 Adjacent sports grounds & Esplanade Park 3 Quiet location off main street 3 Pet-friendly by arrangement 3 WiFi, HD LCD TVs, SKY & DVD players 3 Breakfasts available 3 Walking distance (900m) to most civic amenities & CBD 3 Tariff: $145-$249 (1-2 persons) Phon e Peak rates may apply

RESERVATIONS - 0800 BIG FIVE Host - Jenni Anderson

D i rect for Bes t Pri c es

stay@bigfivemotel.co.nz • www.bigfivemotel.co.nz

68

REMUTAKA

Wild coast section © Tim Bardsley-Smith

Cycle Trail

PETONE to ŌRONGORONGO 2-3 days

114km

Starting on the edge of Wellington Harbour, the Remutaka Cycle Trail flits between urban townships and untamed wilderness, meaning you’re never too far from a strong latte and a wild landscape.

F

rom disused train tracks to historic settlements, pockets of human activity hint at an industrial past, while rugged coastlines, lakes and river valleys allow for a total retreat into nature.

As intrepid as the ride may sound, there are no major hill climbs and the tracks are mostly flat. With several access points, day rides are just as feasible as the entire two to three-day shebang. © Remutaka Cycle Trail

TOP TIP – With several, often lengthy, tunnels along the trail, don’t forget bike lights or a head torch.

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

TRAIL INFO

BEST FOR: Losing yourself in the natural and industrial remnants that surround our capital.

2-3 Days 114km

Flirting with the seaside, Petone’s fondness for good coffee, food, fashion labels and craftmanship nurtures a lively and innovative spirit. Head to Jackson St to experience the best of it. Venturing into Hutt Valley, often referred to as Wellington’s ‘big backyard’, the terrain gets noticeably wilder, and by the time you reach the Remutaka Range, the only noise left is natural. This forested trail traces an old railway line and includes a 584m-long tunnel and a 90m swing bridge over Siberia Gully. To navigate the tunnels, don’t forget your bike lights or a head torch.

Pedal on towards Wairarapa, where several townships offer hearty food, and by the time Wairarapa Moana (Lake Wairarapa) comes into view, the topography has changed yet again, into one of wetland and estuary.

The coastal road is often lashed by an unforgiving wind that gives reason to its shipwrecks and plenty of quake-made topography.

At Turakirae Head, rocks once shaped by sea are now ruled by seals and it’s only a little further to Ōrongorongo River mouth, where pre-booked shuttles return to Petone and Wellington (or you can carry on along the add-on Wainuiomata Connector Ride back to Lower Hutt).

TRAIL GRADES: PETONE TO MAYMORN, 35KM GRADE 2 (EASY) MAYMORN TO CROSS CREEK, 25KM GRADE 2-3 (EASY TO INTERMEDIATE) CROSS CREEK TO OCEAN BEACH, 36KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) OCEAN BEACH TO ŌRONGORONGO RIVER, 18KM GRADE 3-4 (INTERMEDIATE TO ADVANCED) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is reliable throughout the Hutt Valley and in Wairarapa towns. There is some coverage beyond that – including around the coastal section – but it is patchy and should not be relied upon.

DRINKING WATER: Carry enough water for your trip, as after the first section there are no shops.

TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid or touring bike will suffice on the Hutt River, Remutaka Rail Trail (Hutt side) and Western Lake Rd. A mountain bike is required for the Wairarapa side of the Rail Trail and the ride around the coast. E-bikes are welcome on all the trails.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

69

© AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND open section on road section Wainuiomata Connector Ride Wainuiomata Connector Ride on road start/finish point point of interest

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets car park accommodation camping shelter 1

riding the trail Petone 400m

35km

Maymorn

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

25km

Cross Creek

Ocean Beach 36km

Ōrongorongo 18km

200m 0m

PETONE TO MAYMORN, 35KM Start on the northern shores of Wellington Harbour at the iconic Petone Wharf, or nearby at Petone Station. Travel on to the Petone Settlers Museum, built to commemorate the region’s very early Māori and European settlement.

Explore the area’s heritage with a pit stop in Jackson Street’s popular cafés and shopping strip, then follow the easy-riding Hutt River Trail through the leafy suburbs of Lower Hutt and Upper Hutt. You’ll find river side parks, cafés and playgrounds and local swimming holes dotted all along the way. When you reach Te Marua, you’ll leave the riverbank and follow a short 2km section of road to the end of the trail at Maymorn (the start of section two).

MAYMORN TO CROSS CREEK, 25KM The second section of the Remutaka Cycle Trail follows an old railway route and the most popular section of this trail, established in 1878 as a connection between Wellington and the Wairarapa. The trail weaves through the Remutaka Range taking in historical sights along the way.

You’ll plunge through restored rail

70

tunnels, cross the historic ‘Howe’ truss bridge (1876) spanning the Pakuratahi River, and pass through old rail yards before a gentle climb through native bush and plantation forest to the ‘summit’. Then, it’s a downhill ride along the historic Fell Locomotive Incline with an exciting half-kilometre journey through Summit Tunnel (1877) and the majestic Siberia Gully suspension bridge.

At the bottom of the hill you’ll emerge at Cross Creek, where you’ll enter the wide-open expanse of the Wairarapa Valley. At Cross Creek you can choose to turn north-east on Western Lake Rd and continue to Featherston (10km), to catch the train back to Wellington or carry on to section three.

CROSS CREEK TO OCEAN BEACH, 36KM Siberia Bridge, Remutaka Cycle Trail © Johnny Hendrikus

Starting at Cross Creek ride through quiet farm country along the shores of Lake Wairarapa and Lake Ōnoke to reach Ocean Beach on the shores of Palliser Bay. Your journey will take you south-west through ‘big sky country’, where sheep and cattle graze on lush farm pastures once home to some of New Zealand’s earliest sheep stations.

You’ll then pass Lake Ōnoke, part of the Wairarapa Moana Wetlands Park, supporting more than one hundred species indigenous and migratory water birds. Along the way you’ll find cottage accommodation options which are great options to overnight on multi-day journeys and you also have an option to detour into Wairarapa wine country.

Finally, you’ll arrive on the South Coast amongst rows of iconic Kiwi baches on Ocean Beach (the start of section four)

state highway

before things start to get a little wilder along the coast.

OCEAN BEACH TO ŌRONGORONGO RIVER, 18KM This is the most spectacular section with the rugged beauty of the wild south coast. It’s matched with equally big weather which can make the trail challenging in wind and rain – plus the trail surface can be rocky and sandy in short stretches. You’ll pass by Turakirae Head and see raised beaches formed by a series of tectonic uplifts over the past 7000 years and in winter meet some of the 500 fur seals that make their home here. Then ride alongside Ōrongorongo Station, one of the longest running farm operations in New Zealand, northwest to the mouth of the Ōrongorongo River and the car park signalling the trail end. Wainuiomata Coast Rd through to Petone provides a Connector Ride to take you back to the start of your adventure in Petone, along this road you will find side adventures to the Baring Head lighthouse trails, Remutaka Forest Park walking trails, hospitality in Wainuiomata.

Highlights of the trail

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Cabins. Offering tours as well as accommodation, the area is flush with our feathered friends.

Earthquakes and land movement have sculpted this area. Look for Kotumu Fan, the largest rockslide on the trail, although in reality you can’t miss it.

Turakirae Head is home to hundreds of kekeno (New Zealand fur seals).

A detour worth taking is to Wairarapa’s wine country, for obvious reasons!

Martinborough is in south Wairarapa and features small, locally run vineyards with over 20 boutique cellar doors.

The Great Harbour Way/Te Aranui o Pōneke is a 72km walking and cycling route around Te Whanganui-a-tara, the harbour of Wellington.

From Ōrua-pouanui/Baring Head in the east, to Te Rimurapa/Sinclair Head in the west. Knock it out in one day, or take your time and spread it over two or more.

WELLINGTON CITY > see PAGE 72

Tuck In & Drink Up

Fill your boots at one of Wellington’s tried and tested places to eat, drink and recharge.

Pour & Twist The first manual coffee brew bar in New Zealand, educating in the art of handbrewed coffee. Find them on Garrett St. The Oatery Get your porridge just the way you like. Their freshly baked granola can be found at Left Bank, Cuba St. Mabel’s A stone’s throw from Courtenay Place, this Burmese

WELLINGTON’S WELLINGTON’S

restaurant will transport you to the heart of Myanmar with every slurp of noodles and sip of broth.

Evil Twins serving up colourful jar drinks and coffee from their spot on Willis St. Fred’s Get in early (open from 8am) to grab one of these super scrumptious sandwiches. Located on Cuba St. Choice Bros Found on Ghunzee St, tuck into brunch or indulge in the fried chicken menu enjoyed with their signature beers.

Heyday Beer Co. A pet-friendly brewery on Cuba St pairing their beers to cheeses and charcuterie meats.

UPPER HUTT WATCH VIDEO

KIWIHOLIDAY HOLIDAY PARK KIWI PARK

Gateway to the south...

Features all-weather and grass power sites

Easy access to Remutaka Cycle Trail, Forest Park and Orongorongo Track. Secure bike storage and bike cleaning facilities.

Wellington’s Kiwi Holiday TARIFF: Park • Tent sites $18 adult, $10 child (unmetered showers) Suitable for large buses and campervans. Approximately 25min • Power sites $28 (single), $45 (double), extra adult $15, child $10 from Wellington and ferry terminals. 5min drive to CBD Upper Hutt.

• Standard Cabins $50 (double), extra adult $15, child $10 Connecting bus and train service to Wellington City from holiday • Family Cabins $75 (double), extra adult $15, child $10 park. Seasonal rates.

• ECO Cabins $80 (double), extra adult $15, child $10 45 Akatarawa Rd, • Kitchen Cabins $90 (double), extra adult $15, child $10 Upper Hutt • Tourist flats $120 (double), extra adult $15, child $10 P +64 4 526 7400 • Motels $145 (double), extra adult $15, child $10 M 027 243 2133 E harcourtholidaypark@xtra.co.nz • Dogs & cats by arrangement only.

Proprietors: Giles Family • Horses/ponies $15 per night, grazing & covered yards.

Phone for reservations: +64 4 526 7400 www.harcourtholidaypark.co.nz 71

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

• Visit Kaitoke Regional Park and you’ll end up at the location for Rivendell in The Lord of the Rings. Film sets aside, there are multiple swimming holes along the riverbank so pack a picnic.

• Hutt Valley is composed of 3000ha of parks, reserves, bush-clad hills, beaches and walkways, with the buzzy suburbs of Lower Hutt and Upper Hutt just minutes apart.

• The 221m-long Maymorn Tunnel grants an alternative starting point to the trail.

• Birchville Dam Waterfall is one of the most impressive falls in the region found in Belmont Regional Park, Upper Hutt.

• Petone’s trendy Jackson St boasts a collection of hip cafés, art galleries and boutiques.

• Discover the world’s only remaining steam powered Fell Locomotive at the Fell Locomotive Museum, along with a rich railway heritage, in historic Featherston.

• Bird lovers should incorporate a stay at Te Rakau Birding and

Coffee served at Pour and Twist, Wellington © WellingtonNZ

Spend a day in Wellington This is what a perfect day in our small but mighty-fine capital looks like.

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

MORNING: Wellington’s waterfront is one of the loveliest land-toseascapes in New Zealand.

Embark on your day by heading to Belén Vegan Bakery for coffee and a decadent pastry you’ll be thinking about all day. Stroll on the Wellington Writers Walk flanked with sculptures and quotations from New Zealand’s best wordsmiths. Head to Te Papa, New Zealand’s internationally acclaimed museum early to avoid the rush.

LUNCHTIME: With a rumble in your belly, head to Wellington’s Te Aro district. Fred’s on Cuba St whips up seven delicious sandwich filling combinations with relish, while Hannah’s Laneway (between Leeds and Eva streets) plays home to the Wellington Chocolate Factory, a bakery famed for its salted caramel cookies, a brew bar and a myriad of stores.

LED-lighted tunnels and of course, city-spanning views from the summit. Soak up the serenity of the Wellington Botanic Garden and learn more about Wellington’s tramways at the Cable Car Museum.

AFTERNOON: Next on your list is a Wellington must-do. Climb to the top of the city on board the iconic red cable car, marvelling at

EVENING: For an aperitif this evening, descend on Kuikui Lane, a cosy cocktail bar specialising in gin and shared plates using only New

Zealand sourced ingredients.

Get your dinner fix at Liberty on Cuba St; from Korean fried chicken to Te Matuku oysters, their food is made for sharing. Nearby Kisa’s flavourful Middle-Eastern dishes will keep you ordering more. For some cheap eats you can’t go past Little Penang’s mouth-watering Malaysian cuisine, found over on Victoria St.

ADD-ON TRAILS Wairarapa Valley Cycleway: 67km/4–6 hours This touring route runs between the Remutaka Cycle Trail and Masterton.

Route 52: 202km/2 days Linking Hawke’s Bay to the Wairarapa region.

More mountain biking, please

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he hub of Wellington’s vast mountain biking network, Mākara Peak’s tracks, range from flow to whoa! A massive hill around 15 minutes drive from Wellington, the purpose-built Mākara Peak Mountain Bike Park was established in 1998 and is now a first-rate attraction. With over 40km of tracks in 250ha of regenerating native bush, the park offers great variety for such an easily accessible location.

You can bring the whole family for a cruise around easy-grade Koru and Lazy Fern, get some berm action and spectacular summit views on

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the intermediate trails, or tear into the gnarly, technical trails if you’re an expert.

A great sampling of Mākara Peak’s intermediate and advanced tracks, the Grand Loop is a popular circuit.

Built and maintained by dedicated volunteers, the 12km loop takes in the summit and plenty of sweet single tracks with challenges for the more experienced rider.

The summit of the 412m-high peak is reached on a single-track climb that’s not too taxing. After taking in the sweeping views of city and sea, you have the choice of trails graded between 3 and 6 for the start of

the homeward run. The wide Peak Flow is designed to be the easiest descent from the summit, while Trickle Falls (Tricky Falls) is one of the most technical. If you can’t make the first drop-off with confidence, turn back as it only gets worse.

Mākara Peak can get busy at weekends and during public holidays, so if you like some space, an early, late or weekday ride is your best bet. The Mākara Peak Mountain Bike Park’s main car park is 1km down South Karori Rd. LEFT: Cycling Mākara Peak TOP: Rainbow crossing at Cuba St BOTH © WellingtonNZ.com

WAINUIOMATA

Cape Palliser © TBSPhotography.co.au

Connector Ride

GREAT RIDE • REMUTAKA CYCLE TRAIL

Connecting the Wainuiomata Coast to the Hutt River, the Wainuiomata Connector Ride makes the most of its natural environment. An all on-road route, this bike ride that opened in 2020 flirts with valleys, forests, coasts, rivers and hillside.

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tarting at the Ōrongorongo River car park at the end of Coast Rd in Wainuiomata, this 28km route travels over the Te Hikoi Arawera/Wainuiomata

Sleep in a lighthouse Wake up to the sound of crashing waves at the Lighthouse in Island Bay. Just 15 minutes from Wellington City centre, this three-floored lighthouse offers a unique seaside stay.

Hill Shared Pathway and finishes in Lower Hutt. Once here you can easily get back to Petone by hooking onto the Hutt River Trail (an easy scenic walking and cycling path Lighthouse, Island Bay © Lou Hatton

that runs alongside the Hutt River from Petone to Upper Hutt).

MORE MOUNTAIN BIKING, PLEASE

The Wainuiomata Connector Ride is a Grade 3-4 trail ride which utilises rural road from beginning to end.

Championed and maintained by local enthusiasts in Waiu Park, the Wainuiomata Trail Park is set in native bush and wetland 20 minutes from central Wellington. There is a decent selection of beginner and family tracks as well as a skills’ area.

TOP TIP – Combine your ride with a stay in Wainuiomata. Nudging both mountainside and coastline, this Lower Hutt suburb tickles picturesque Wainuiomata River.

Visit Wainuiomata Get back to nature: Mountains to the east, coastline to the west, you’re never too far from rugged forests, wild beaches, rivers and native bush.

Bring your rugby ball: Wainuiomata has a reputation for producing talented rugby league players, with many spawning from the local Wainuiomata Rugby League Club.

Meet kiwi: Book in at one of the rough-hewn huts in the Ōrongorongo Valley and come dusk, go in search of elusive kiwi.

Embark on a bush walk: Stretch out your body poles (your legs) on one of the walks in Remutaka Forest Park.

Jump on a horse: See the rugged landscape from a different saddle than your bike. Coastal View Horse Treks soak up the views over the valley and as far as Wellington City.

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QUEEN CHARLOTTE

TRAIL INFO

2-3 Days 73.5km

Track

TRAIL GRADE:

GREAT RIDE • QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

MERETOTO/SHIP COVE TO CAMP BAY, 28.5KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) to GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) CAMP BAY TO TŌREA SADDLE, 24.5KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) to GRADE 4 (ADVANCED). Kenepuru Saddle to the Bay of Many Coves Campsite is GRADE 5 (EXPERT) TŌREA SADDLE TO ANAKIWA, 20.5KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) to GRADE 4 (ADVANCED). Climb from Torea Saddle is GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

Queen Charlotte Track © MarlboroughNZ

BEST FOR: A challenging, multi-day ride that will leave you puffed, but impressed.

SHIP COVE to ANAKIWA 2-3 days

73.5km

Incredibly beautiful and rich in human history, the Marlborough Sounds is a magical place of deep blue bays, beaches, forest and viewfilled ridgelines. The Queen Charlotte Track takes visitors deep into its reaches.

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on’t be under any preconceived idea that this ride won’t test your endurance. Those jaw-dropping views you seek are found from ridgelines, after long, relentless climbs. There are many sections that skirt the shoreline, traversing from one idyllic bay to the next, but this track is graded as intermediate

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to advance for good reason.

Some areas, such as the ridgetop sections of the central part are listed as Grade 5. However, day trips are a feasible choice for less advanced riders and if you’re overnighting, backpacks can be transferred to your accommodation by local operators, allowing for a lighter ride.

ADD-ON TRAIL Queen Charlotte Drive: 40km/2–4 hours This spectacular, winding path links Picton to Havelock. The Anakiwa end of the Queen Charlotte Track is just 4km away from Linkwater, found halfway along this route.

Along the way, various lodges offer comfortable stays. In fact, so isolated are these far-flung hideouts, they feel pleasantly unattainable to the outside world.

From beginning to end, the journey never waivers from extraordinary.

From secret coves to saddles and ridges offering stupendous views, this 73.5km track is commonly regarded as one of the best singletrack mountain bike rides in New Zealand. We have a feeling you’ll agree.

Top Tip – A unique feature of this track is that entry and exit paths are accessed mostly by boat, starting with a scenic cruise from Picton to Meretoto (aka Ship Cove) to commence your ride.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Patchy along the first section of trail, from Meretoto to Camp Bay. From Camp Bay to Anakiwa there is reasonable signal most of the way.

DRINKING WATER: Water supplies are limited, particularly in the peak, dry season. Fill up your bottles from reliable sources before you set off each day.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is essential. In accordance with Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails’ policy, e-bikes are not permitted on trails graded 4 and above.

PLEASE NOTE: Sections of the QCT between Kenepuru Saddle and Anakiwa cross private land and require a Queen Charlotte Track Land Cooperative (QCTLC) Pass.

A QCT Land Cooperative Pass is required for all private land sections of the QCT between Kenepuru Saddle and Anakiwa. See www.qctlc.com to purchase and for more info.

ROAD CLOSURES: The Kenepuru Road and some side roads to the track are closed due to extreme storm damage at least until autumn 2022. Access to the track by road is only available at Anakiwa. The rest of the track is accessible by boat only until the Kenepuru Road reopens.

For more information on current road conditions please see www.marlborough.govt.nz GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

MAP LEGEND open section

café/restaurant

optional section

toilets

boat/water taxi route

car park

start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre town

accommodation camping shelter state highway

GREAT RIDE • QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK © AA Traveller 2022

riding the trail Ship Cove 600m

Kenepuru Saddle

Schoolhouse Bay

4km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

22.5km

24.5km

Tōrea Saddle & Portage 8km

Te Mahia Anakiwa Saddle 12.5km

400m 200m 0m

MERETOTO/SHIP COVE TO CAMP BAY, 28.5KM The first section from Ship Cove to Camp Bay is closed for biking between 1 Dec and 28 Feb. The trail climbs gently away from the beach thanks to the new reroute, passing through impressive groves of tall native trees and a diverse understory of shrubs and ferns. Your gentle ascent ends at the Ship Cove Saddle, a lookout point with views of both the outer and inner Queen Charlotte/Totaranui.

The track then winds its way to the shoreline at Schoolhouse Bay, where there is a DOC campsite, and then on above Resolution Bay. It’s a reasonably gentle climb out of Resolution Bay to reach Tawa Saddle. From there the

trail takes in views all the way around Endeavour Inlet. The track is mainly flat and wide, allowing riders to enjoy the forest and birdlife along with various salty seaside scenes and a couple of holiday resorts offering refreshments.

CAMP BAY TO TŌREA SADDLE, 24.5KM The QCTLC Pass is required for this section. Sidling around ridgelines for much of the way, this section certainly has its ups and downs but rewards riders with magnificent new panoramas at every turn. The climb from Camp Bay to Kenepuru Saddle is the first of many – totalling 900m in all – and ushers riders on to the ridgeline separating Queen Charlotte and

Kenepuru sounds. Eatwell’s Lookout is particularly impressive, but it is just one of many on this awesome section.

Onward it goes, passing two DOC campsites and endless other spots to stop and absorb the grandeur. It’s a bit of a bumpy final run to Tōrea Saddle where the track meets the short, steep road linking the two Sounds. The right turn leads to Portage where there’s a campsite and other accommodation options. On-road alternative: riders looking for an easier route can ride the sealed road from Kenepuru Saddle to Portage. The road is quiet and undulating with pretty views.

TŌREA TO ANAKIWA, 20.5KM

The QCTLC Pass is required for this section. A decent whack of the day’s

600m of climbing is delivered in the fairly brutal first few kilometres; many riders will have to get off and push.

This slog will soon be forgotten once back on the view-filled tops. Along this section the landscape is a patchy but pleasant mix of old farmland and regenerating native bush. The trail eventually dips down and sidles around the top of Lochmara Bay before hitting the final climb over Te Mahia Saddle. Riders with time and gas in the tank should head down to superpretty Mistletoe Bay, a great place for a picnic (or indeed an overnight stop). From Te Mahia Saddle, it’s a relatively easy cruise around Ōnahau Bay and the Grove Arm, with the trail hugging the shoreline for the last continued on p.76

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continued from p.75

Link Pathway BELOW: Ngākuta Bay, Link Pathway BOTH: © MarlboroughNZ

GREAT RIDE • QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK

few kilometres – handy if you’re keeping an eye out for your boat.

If you have time, linger a while at Davies/Umungata Bay just shy of the end of the trail. Then again, the ice cream stall at Anakiwa may well be open, and you’ll certainly have earned yourself a refreshing treat. In the past, most riders have finished their ride with the boat trip back to Picton, but the creation of the Link Pathway between Picton and Havelock means it’s also now possible to bike back to Picton via the picturesque Queen Charlotte Drive and Link Pathway which, once completed in 2022, will ‘link’ the Queen Charlotte Track with Picton and Havelock.

Highlights of the trail • Mistletoe Bay is a well-run eco-village with clean amenities and a laid-back vibe.

Currently road access is closed but you can still book a water taxi. See their website for details.

• Feed the stingray at the Underwater Observatory at Lochmara Bay. • The blue waters will tempt you to make time for swimming, kayaking, walks and beach picnics.

• Using interpretation panels, Meretoto/ Ship Cove details significant historic events in the Sounds.

• Charming locals such as dolphins and seals will come to greet you on one of the many wildlife cruises on offer.

• The boat back to Picton from Anakiwa takes approximately 30 minutes.

7 reasons to love Marlborough Sounds

• Add the optional section to ride on to Picton, a great base for seeing more of the Sounds and catching a full or half-day fishing charter.

• Recharge your carbs with one of Toastie Picton’s award-winning four-cheese sandwiche offerings.

The Marlborough Sounds are a collection of sunken river valleys that succumbed to rising sea levels over 10,000 years ago. The pull of what lies beneath and above has always attracted people. Here are our seven top picks:

1

Meretoto/Ship Cove

By visiting Queen Charlotte Sound, you will be following in the footsteps of both Kupe, the renowned Māori voyager, and Captain James Cook – the first European to land on New Zealand soil. Hence, the area is referred to by both its English moniker,

places by car. An example is the drive from Rai Valley to Okiwi Bay which leads to a quiet corner of the Sounds.

Road Trips

For views of the outer Sounds, the French Pass Rd is a good option.

Venture to a view of D’Urville Island, looking for the famously treacherous stretch of tidal pull.

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Those with access to four wheels as well as two can find many beautiful

COLONIAL MOTEL 66 Main Street, Blenheim

Res. Freephone: 0800 105 789 E: stay@colonialmotelblenheim.co.nz

• Great location & hospitality • Ideal central location – very close to cafés, restaurants, supermarket, gyms, CBD & Riverside bike & walking path • Multiple bike trails close by • Cycle storage & wash-down area on site • Relax in comfortable & fully self-contained units – mix of Studios, 1, 2 & 3-bdrm units • Free high-speed WiFi & 50+ Sky channels • Guest laundry, BBQ & swimming pool • Pet-friendly by arrangement

www.colonialmotelblenheim.co.nz 76

BEAUTIFUL BLENHEIM

Ship Cove, and its original Māori name, Meretoto. Today, there are sculptures, memorials and interpretation panels detailing fascinating stories of both men.

BLENHEIM > see PAGE 76

BLENHEIM

• Maritime History Visit the Edwin Fox Ship, the world’s oldest surviving merchant ship, last surviving convict ship and last wooden New Zealand immigrant ship. The Picton Heritage & Whaling Museum is also well worth a look in.

3

French Pass Whirlpools

4

Leisurely Cruises Boats grant access to every watery reach. Sail into Queen Charlotte or Kenepuru Sounds or help deliver mail to the remotest pockets of the Marlborough Sounds on board the Mail Boat Cruise.

Taxi Boats

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Water taxis and boat services mostly operate out of Picton, notably for the Queen Charlotte Sound, but some depart from Havelock for Kenepuru Sound as well as Pelorus Sound.

Take your pick from a feast of sights and attractions in this lively town. Don’t leave without trying Marlborough’s sauvignon blanc, which put New Zealand wine in the international spotlight and is revered around the world.

6

Dolphin Swimming Bottlenose dolphins are regularly spotted here. They’re famously curious, so taking a tour with local operators puts you in a good position for a dolphin encounter.

Fishing and Diving

7

Fishing charters scour the water for salmon and blue cod. To meet the sealife, rather than devour it, the wreck of the Mikhail Lermontov, a Russian cruise ship offers a spectacular diving experience.

COPPERMINE

Coppermine Trail © Virginia Woolf Photography

Trail

GREAT RIDE • COPPERMINE TRAIL

TRAIL INFO

BEST FOR: Wilderness on Nelson’s doorstep: one of New Zealand’s most accessible alpine rides.

BROOK STREET, NELSON ROUND TRIP 4-6 hours

43km

On the map this track loops favourably behind the city’s borders, but some seriously wild surprises lie in wait.

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hould you be prone to stopping often to smell the flowers, allow a full day to complete this stunning alpine ride. Otherwise, four to six hours will suffice. Before heading out from central Nelson, allow the good city folk to serve you a cup of their finest coffee; you won’t find a smoother drop.

From Nelson CBD the full loop is 43km, shortened to 38km if you start

and finish at the Brook St trailhead (as described on the following page).

Soon enough you’ll be riding through spectacular hill country via Codgers Mountain Bike Park before joining the old tramway, believed to be New Zealand’s first railway. The terrain then climbs gently through sweetsmelling forest, with head-turning views back towards Nelson and Tasman Bay. Upon arriving at Third

4-6 Hours 43km

House, 660m above sea level, join the weka for a picnic.

As the trail continues to undulate upwards, the landscape takes on an almost lunar-like appearance past Windy Pt (both by name and by nature) to Coppermine Saddle at 878m. The section between here and Maitai Dam can be seriously hair-raising but a side trip to Maitai Caves reveals enchanting grottoes.

You’ll need to dismount and walk 30 minutes each way, but it’ll provide some respite from the demanding terrain.

The final section follows a bushy ledge skirting the river before dipping back into Nelson. Those with an enviable amount of stamina can return via the slightly harder Maitai Valley Walkway.

Global conservation starts right here in Nelson. The Brook Waimārama Sanctuary is a 700 hectare mainland ‘ecological island’ that adjoins this trail.

While riding, listen look out for the South Island saddleback, or tīeke, and the orange-crowned parakeet also known as the kākāriki karaka.

TRAIL GRADES: BROOK ST TO THIRD HOUSE, 11.5KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) THIRD HOUSE TO COPPERMINE SADDLE, 6KM GRADE 3-4 (INTERMEDIATEADVANCED) COPPERMINE SADDLE TO MAITAI DAM, 9.6KM GRADE 3-4 (INTERMEDIATEADVANCED) MAITAI DAM TO BROOK ST, 11KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good coverage close to the city, and at points on the climb to Coppermine Saddle, Third House being one point. Once past Third House coverage is very poor.

DRINKING WATER: Sufficient water should be carried to last the entire day. Supplies are readily available in Nelson city.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is essential for this trail.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

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‘When you mix spectacular scenery with a pristine mountain trail you get an unforgettable experience.

Go see for yourself why more than 60,000 people per annum enjoy the trail, making it one of New Zealand’s hottest spots for mountain biking.’

MAP LEGEND

© AA Traveller 2022

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Former Nelson City Council Mayor, Rachel Reese

Coppermine Trail

café/restaurant

optional route

toilets

start/finish point

car park

point of interest

camping

AA Centre

shelter

Information

accommodation

hill/mountain

state highway

town

bike wash

BROOK ST TO THIRD HOUSE, 11.5KM

GREAT RIDE • COPPERMINE TRAIL

The trail begins in the lower reaches of Codgers MTB Park, a fun place to ride with trails to suit most abilities.

The trail soon joins the old railway, a narrow gauge, horse-drawn operation that is considered New Zealand’s very first railway. It was used to transport chromium copper from hillside mines – hence the name ‘Coppermine’.

The old railway line makes for a steady but gentle climb around the flanks of Wooded Peak, aptly named for its cloak of regenerating and mature beech forest. The views back towards Nelson, Tasman Bay and faraway ranges become evermore impressive as you progress.

Third House, the basic shelter at 660m above sea level, is an atmospheric place to rest with the possibility of a weka wandering in.

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THIRD HOUSE TO COPPERMINE SADDLE, 6KM

As the trail undulates upwards, the landscape begins its drastic transformation from bushy to bald, before long ushering riders on to an exposed ridge with stunted mānuka and other hardy plant life. Welcome to the so-called mineral belt, studded with strikingly coloured rocks.

At Windy Pt – which probably will be – the trail continues as singletrack for a couple of kilometres before reaching the trail’s highpoint, Coppermine Saddle (878m).

New views of the Maitai Valley and Richmond Ranges are revealed around these parts, which combined with its rugged beauty make it a pretty awesome spot to stop for lunch.

COPPERMINE SADDLE TO MAITAI DAM, 9.6KM

Get ready to rumble, because this is a wild ride of fast-forward, big corners and rock-dodging. Expect watery eyes, white knuckles and an ear-to-ear grin.

The descent from the Saddle to the Matai South Branch is the most technical section of the ride. It is a steep gradient with switchbacks and loose rocks – grade 4 trail. Upgrade work is planned on this section, but if you aren’t a confident technical rider check the website for updates on trail condition. Around three quarters of the way down, the gradient eases and from the South Branch crossing the track undulates towards Maitai Dam. Open stretches of flowing track offer a chance to open up the throttle a bit but be aware that this is a dual-use track, so keep an eye out for walkers.

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riding the trail Nelson 1000m

4km

Brook Street

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Third House 11.5km

Coppermine Saddle

6km

9.6km

Maitai Dam

Smiths Ford 3.8km

Nelson 3.1km

800m 600m 400m 200m 0m

After crossing the Maitai South Branch Bridge, note a left turn onto a walking track signposted to the Maitai Caves.

This is a worthwhile side trip if you don’t mind locking your bike to a tree or walking with it for the half an hour each way. The stunning caves are well worth the side-trip.

MAITAI DAM TO BROOK ST, 11KM

The final section of the Coppermine Trail parallels Nelson’s water pipeline on a cruisy, bush-lined trail on a ledge above the river. After around 4km, at Smiths Ford, the trail joins the quiet Maitai Valley Rd. Tired riders can simply follow the road back to Nelson, while those with gas left in the tank can follow the only marginally harder Maitai Valley Walkway – you can follow this all the way back to the Nelson CBD, or detour into the backstreets to close the loop back to the Brook St trailhead. A map or Google will get you there.

Whatever you’re into, NELSON serves it by the bucket load.

We’re talking water sports, music festivals, wine tasting as well as seafood, farmers’

markets, mountain biking and top-notch beer making. If you’re eating it, swinging it or simply sipping it, Nelson will show you a good time.

NELSON > see PAGE 78

Maitai Valley MOTOR CAMP

• 6kms to CBD • Spacious & affordable • Mountain biking & hiking trails • Coppermine Trail • Dun Mountain Trail • Maitai Caves • Centre of NZ • Pets by prior arrangement

Powered sites $24 per adult • Non-powered $13 per adult Cabins start from $53 per night

472 Maitai Valley Rd, Nelson • Enquiries: maitaivalley@ncc.govt.nz • +64 3 548 7729

BEST FOR: Reawakening your senses. This trail looks, tastes and sounds good.

NELSON ROUND TRIP 2-4 days

200km

Breathe in the tonic that is crisp, ocean air along the sparkling shores of Kaiteriteri, or watch a master glassblower manipulate great coils of molten glass; admire an army of grape vines falling into formation or sip the end result: a cool drop of snappy chardonnay. This is one hedonistic ride.

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trail with many options, all 200km of it is dipped in art galleries and boutique shops, fruit stalls, cafés, craft beer and wineries. Absorb the rural, urban, coastal and riverside scenery, with delightful forays into Tasman Bay towns. Those looking for short hops and day rides are just as welcome as those after a full-blown, four-day affair.

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE Trail

Biking vineyards in autumn © Oliver Weber/www.nelsontasman.nz

TRAIL INFO

2-4 Days 200km

TRAIL GRADES: NELSON TO WAKEFIELD, 34KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST) WAKEFIELD TO TAPAWERA, 31KM GRADE 2 (EASY) TAPAWERA TO RIWAKA, 63KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) Includes On-road section

As is common in New Zealand, looking seaward is steeped with reward: from Nelson, it’s not far to the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the largest enclosed estuary in the South Island, a wide range of seabirds will enchant. Other highlights include the causeway to Rabbit Island/ Moturoa. Popular for its picnic spots, pine forest and sandy beaches, a pleasant jaunt across the island leads to Ferry Landing. Pop your bike on the boat and enjoy a 200m hop to Māpua, where the cafés and shops are bountiful.

RICHMOND TO KAITERITERI, 64KM GRADE 1-3 (EASIEST, EASY, INTERMEDIATE)

Further along the route, the coastal pathway is licked with a salty breeze, while inland settlements such as Brightwater and Wakefield are pretty much paved with wine. For experiences that will arouse your internal fear detector, crossing the swing bridge over Waimea River, and later, spooky Spooners Tunnel will enthral.

MĀPUA FERRY: The 200m, 7min ferry journey across Māpua Inlet will take you between Rabbit Island and Māpua Wharf and back again. This is the only way to make the crossing; the alternative route is a hilly 15km via busy SH 60 and not recommended. Check the timetable ahead of time as sailings are infrequent.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good across the coastal section.

Gaps in reception on some of the inland sections south of Wakefield and Motueka.

DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements; be sure to carry plenty on hot summer days.

TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid bike is suitable unless you plan on tackling the Kaiteriteri MTB park.

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) LEFT: E-biking – Gentle Cycling © Lumiere/www.nelsontasman.nz

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

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© AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND off-road cycle trail

town

on-road cycle trail

café/restaurant

start/finish point

toilets

point of interest

camping

AA Service

shelter

i-SITE Visitor Centre

accommodation

tunnel

state highway

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

riding the trail Wakefield

Nelson

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Tapawera

Riwaka/ Kaiteriteri

500m 400m

34km

31km

63km

Richmond 64km

200m 0m

NELSON TO WAKEFIELD, 34KM Riders staying anywhere from

Nelson through to Richmond can easily join the trail at many points along the way. If starting in the CBD follow the signs and head along to the St Vincent St cycle route, which follows excellent commuter paths along the historic railway reserve towards the airport. The Nelson Airport is another good place to start and has ample parking available.

From here, join the coastal route to Richmond, which provides easy, relaxed riding. Trail goes adjacent to SH 6 for a while, so smile at commuting cyclists and watch the Waimea Inlet tide as you travel, or head off the trail for refreshments.

As the trail nears Richmond it splits This section heads off on an inland tangent, taking in the country settlements of Brightwater and Wakefield. If you are

prepared to explore off the trail there are several wine tasting opportunities here. Rich in history and home to 2000 people, Wakefield is a pleasant place to rest a while or break your journey overnight. Leaving Richmond (bottom Queen St), the trail passes through vineyards to reach Ranzau Rd, then turns a couple of corners to meet Pugh Rd and eventually the Waimea River.

An impressive suspension bridge takes you to the other side. Off the bridge, it’s a left turn towards Brightwater, a welcoming place to stop for refreshments before heading onwards.

Charlotte Lane then leads riders out of Brightwater, through an underpass, on to Lord Rutherford and Higgins roads and into the heart of Wakefield village via Edward St. WAKEFIELD TO TAPAWERA, 31KM Cross the bridge on Pigeon Valley Rd

and turn left to follow the off-road trail beside the Wai-iti River to Hoult Valley Rd. Ride alongside the main road (for just over 1km) to Wai-iti domain, then re-join the Wai-iti River on picturesque off-road trail until it reaches Belgrove.

Check out the Belgrove Railway Windmill (built 1897) as you pass through town. The trail shadows the road for a while then follows the old Nelson Railway route through pastoral countryside and past historic tobacco kilns until it reaches the seriously spectacular Spooners Tunnel. The railway line was in use up until 1955, when its closure was met by major protests.

The 1400m-long Spooners Tunnel is now New Zealand’s longest decommissioned rail tunnel. It’s also the sixth-longest pedestrian and cycle tunnel in the world, and the longest in

the southern hemisphere. Suffice to say, it’s pretty dark in there, so you’ll need to carry a torch if you want to survey the interior and avoid getting spooked, although we think a spot of spookiness is all part of its charm. A warm layer is also needed as it gets quite cold, particularly in the middle and obviously more so in winter.

Another 7km takes you down to Kohatu Junction (passing the Norris Gully car park along the way), which has a good place for refreshments at the Flat Rock Café. Continue following the historic railway alignment down the Motueka Valley, with views across hop plantations and farmland to Mt Arthur. Keep an eye out for remains of 150-year-old stone walls, culverts and bridges as you gradually descent to the village of Tapawera where there is a small railway museum, café, restaurant and accommodation options.

TAPAWERA TO RIWAKA, 63KM Note that there is limited food and drink available along this section so make sure you stock up at the Four Square in Tapawera.

From Tapawera there is a 15km stretch on gravel road up to the Baton Saddle Continued on p.81

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Continued from p.80

then right into Factory Rd to reach the junction with SH 60 at Riwaka.

junction of the inland trail heading up the Motueka Valley.

RICHMOND TO KAITERITERI, 64KM This section of trail takes you towards Māpua on a mix of quiet lanes and a stopbank track. It crosses the Waimea River via a purpose-built suspension bridge and then crosses a causeway to Rabbit Island/Moturoa, a popular recreation area. It’s a pleasant cruise across the island to reach the ferry landing, then it’s just a 200m boat hop to Māpua Wharf.

From the Woodstock Bridge, it’s 27km along the West Bank Rd to Brooklyn.

The road is relatively narrow but has light traffic volumes. With beautiful scenery the ride is an enjoyable section where the kilometres will pass quickly under your wheels. You will be peddling through orchards, hop gardens, farmland and native bush on and the eastern boundary of Kahurangi National Park. On a warm summer day choose from numerous picturesque swimming spots along the Motueka River to have a refreshing paddle.

After a short cycle along the shore along Ruby Bay you head into rolling hill country. Most folks will find it a comfortable granny-gear climb to a highpoint where there are panoramic views across to the western ranges and big blue of Tasman Bay. There’s plenty of time to take it all in as the trail gradually descends via the aptly named Tasman View Rd. After a few turns left and right along more country roads you’ll arrive at Motueka. Follow the salt-licked sights of Motueka’s seafront, then cross the impressive Motueka River and follow pretty country lanes to reach Riwaka, keeping your eyes peeled for a pie shop, café, brewery and fruit stalls. Riwaka is the

Riwaka to Kaiteriteri is a there-and-back ride of 8km each way. An underpass provides safe access to Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park. Riders without much ‘mountain biking’ experience should still enjoy this gently rolling and sweeping route through to Kaiteriteri.

Please be careful as this is single trail with some blind corners and bikers travelling in both directions. Kaiteriteri Beach’s glorious golden sands teem with holidaymakers in summer. The waterfront café is a good spot to take it all in. Various Abel Tasman National Park adventures also start from here.

Return to Riwaka to re-join the trail.

At Brooklyn, it’s a right turn onto Old Mill Rd, left onto Anderson Rd, straight across Umukuri Rd, on Swamp Rd, and

Highlights of the trail • Catching the ferry to Māpua gives this trail a charming point of difference. There is just one ferry crossing every hour.

• The lovely little town of Motueka is surrounded by fruit orchards and hop gardens.

• Pick your own berries (seasonal) at Tasman Bay Berries in Richmond. Or head straight to the counter and order a real fruit ice cream from December to February.

• Take a free tour of Pic’s Peanut Butter World.

• Riding through Rabbit Island with ocean on one side and pine forest on the other is a treat.

• Tasman, Marlborough and Nelson wines are world-class, the hard part is choosing which to visit.

KAITERITERI MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK

ADD-ON TRAIL Golden Downs Trail: 66km/1 day This links Nelson Lakes National Park with Wakefield and then connects with the Tasman’s Great Taste Trail at Wakefield to form a continuous touring route between the National Park and Nelson city.

This purpose-built 180ha off-road park is maintained by enthusiastic volunteers who have helped shape the park into a mountain biking mecca. The park has trails for all skill levels and is a hit with both locals and visitors.

© Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park

• Spooners Tunnel is the longest rideable railway tunnel in the southern hemisphere. There are no lights but there are reflectors.

• Nelson’s cherry blossom trees bloom in September. This is also the month of the annual Cherry Blossom Festival to celebrate the city’s Japanese sister-city, Miyazu.

• Visit Nelson Classic Car Museum, a standout attraction with more than 150 mint condition vehicles. Afterwards, grab a bite at the café, the Little Engine eatery.

• Watching hand-blown glass art at Nelson’s flamedaisy studio and gallery is almost hypnotic.

• Abel Tasman National Park is on the doorstep, where blue water, golden sands and green flora all wait to seduce you.

Abel Tasman National Park after Dutch navigator Abel Tasman

Abel Tasman National Park, Adele Island © nelsontasman.nz

Nelson New Zealand

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GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

and then a satisfying descent to the beautiful Baton River swing bridge, purpose built for cyclists. The trail then follows the Baton Valley Rd for 14km to Woodstock. The trail from Tapawera to Woodstock is on rural gravel road, shared by vehicles including logging trucks and milk tankers. Please keep left at all times and take care as there are sections of loose gravel. If you are on an e-bike make sure you have sufficient battery for the route, which includes a hill climb. You are in the back-country and there are no charging facilities.

Along the trail

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

Richmond: Not far from Nelson, Richmond boasts several vineyards all within a 20km radius. The area is also home to potters, glass blowers, wood turners and metalsmiths.

Aniseed Valley, just south of town, is laid-back and lush, perfect for languid walks, barbecues and swimming in the bush reserve.

Wakefield: Get your chops around one of the finest pies in New Zealand at Wakefield Bakery. Some of the architecture in this pretty township dates back to the 1840s including its Anglican church and post office.

Māpua: Celebrated for its produce, especially smoked seafood, foodies love Māpua. The refurbished wharf is bustling with NELSON > see PAGE 82

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Founders Park, Nelson © Tim Cuff LEFT: Motueka Sunday Market © abeltasman.com

cafés, boutique shops and galleries and is a glorious spot to sit with coffee in the sun.

Kaiteriteri: This dazzling beach region is a favourite Kiwi holiday spot. With plenty of sunshine, seclusion and golden sand, you can spend the entire day in or around the water.

At day’s end, duck into one of the waterfront restaurants for a sunset dinner.

Motueka: The marina bustles and the Saltwater Baths on the foreshore – filled by the incoming tide – are a local favourite. Also here is the rusty wreck of historic Janie Seddon, while the Gecko Theatre is a quirky picture house with cushions, couches and popcorn served in bowls.

Love Nelson Welcome to the one of the sunniest cities in New Zealand, and where the artistic energy beams just as brightly. Experience the art of glass blowing or learn the traditional skill of Māori bone carving.

The Nelson Classic Car Museum is one of Nelson’s most publicised attractions as is Pic’s Peanut Butter World for its Willy Wonka-style experiences. Founders Heritage Park is a replica pioneer village detailing early European settler days, and The Suter Art Gallery is Nelson’s free regional art gallery. For wine aficionados, the region is home to dozens of cellar doors and Nelson is also dubbed New Zealand’s craft beer brewing capital, so fill your glass. For tranquillity, both the Queen’s Gardens and the Miyazu Japanese Gardens offer pure zen.

Cyclists on Rabbit Island Beach © George Guille Media

Secret spots From Anchorage Bay, various short walks lead to pinch-yourself places. Undertake the Pitt Head Trail for access to the achingly beautiful Te Pukatea Bay, as well as the crystal-clear Cleopatra’s Pools, complete with natural water slide. Get to Anchorage Bay by hiking from Bark Bay or Mārahau or catch the water taxi from Kaiteriteri Beach.

Kayaking There isn’t a Google search out there that doesn’t spit out a kayaking image when you run a search on Abel Tasman National Park. Wildlife encounters are especially fruitful in the Tonga Island Marine Reserve, with most kayaking operators based in Kaiteriteri, Mārahau and Golden Bay. Take a guided tour and learn more about this special place.

Great walks The Abel Tasman National Park is well-known for its 60km Great Walk but if you’re starved of time, simply book a water taxi to the most popular sections. Some of the best inland hiking tracks are reached from the Golden Bay side of the park. Try Harwoods Hole (45 minutes one way) or Wainui Falls (1hr 20min return).

Boat trips Full-day catamaran tours depart (and return to) Kaiteriteri Beach, venturing past stunning beaches, fur seal colonies, a handful of deserted islands and gliding on sparkling turquoise waters along the way.

Alternatively, amp up the luxeappeal with an overnight stay aboard a luxury yacht moored at Anchorage Beach.

KAITERITERI > see PAGE 82

Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park sits on forested slopes behind our iconic golden beach. All year round riding and situated a stone’s throw from our accommodation and many delicious food and beverage options.

• With approx 30km of track network, the park offers trails to skill levels – beginner, intermediate and advanced.

• The grade 2 EASY RIDER forms part of the Tasman Great Taste Trail cycleway, connecting Kaiteriteri, via Martin Farm Rd, to the Kaiteriteri-Riwaka Rd. • Visit our website for more detailed information and maps.

www.experiencekaiteriteri.co.nz 83

GREAT RIDE • TASMAN’S GREAT TASTE TRAIL

Adventures in Abel Tasman National Park

THE OLD GHOST ROAD

Old Ghost Road © HagePhoto

TRAIL INFO

2-4 Days 85km

GREAT RIDE • THE OLD GHOST ROAD

TRAIL GRADE: LYELL CAR PARK TO LYELL SADDLE HUT GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) LYELL SADDLE HUT TO GHOST LAKE HUT GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) GHOST LAKE HUT TO STERN VALLEY HUT GRADE 4 (ADVANCED), with some GRADE 5 (EXPERT) sections of the trail

BEST FOR: The courageous and intrepid. This is one demanding but life-affirming adventure.

LYELL to SEDDONVILLE 2-4 days

85km

With ridgelines barely wider than your wheels, Grade 4 terrain and place names such as Suicide Slips – you’ll want to put your brave pants on!

A

world-class trail that requires some world-class mountain biking skills, or at the very minimum, plenty of experience, this former 19th century gold miners’ road between Lyell and Seddonville has been transformed into a demanding 85km ride.

Skimming one of the most remote, untouched areas of Aotearoa, the

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track often hinges precariously on the mountainside or tumbles down sheer-sided valleys cloaked in vegetation. Your reward for negotiating such a terrain is a series of trail huts in spectacular locations.

Days are undoubtedly taxing, although it is possible to do an ‘in-and-out’ overnight ride from either end of the trail, or embark on a single day ride by including

a heli-trip. For those putting in the hard graft, you’ll discover gold-rush relics and debris left by sizeable earthquakes, including two colossal land slips. There’s also the ominous-sounding Boneyard – a field of shattered rocks scattered by seismic forces.

Other highlights include emerging above the bush line to greet astounding views, the lofty face of Rocky Tor – a highpoint of 1456m – and the profoundly beautiful Skyline Ridge. With sheer drops that will leave you delirious, the track eventually (and mercifully) merges into Skyline Steps, where you can dismount to carry your bike. Not much further and you’re on the home run.

TOP TIP – Well-facilitated huts are all set in spectacular locations and many have bike tools, gas cookers, crockery and pots.

STERN VALLEY HUT TO GOAT CREEK HUT GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) GOAT CREEK HUT TO SPECIMEN POINT HUT GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) SPECIMEN POINT HUT TO NORTHERN TRAILHEAD GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: There is no cellphone coverage other than some patchy spots between Lyell and Ghost Lake.

DRINKING WATER: Water is available at the huts as well as various streams.

BE PREPARED: The Old Ghost Road is a remote wilderness experience and you will need to plan and prepare thoroughly to get the most out of your ride. There are no towns or shops along the trail so you will need to take all necessary provisions, including a first aid kit and an emergency communication device.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape dual-suspension mountain bike is absolutely essential, as are tools and good mechanical skills. In accordance with Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails trail policy, e-bikes are not recommended on trails graded 4 and above. Responsibility for e-bike use remains with the individual rider.

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

‘In my mind this is a very, very special trail.

Due to its remoteness and grade, it’s not for everyone and you need to pick the weather, but the visionaries behind this trail have given New Zealand a world-class tourism asset.’

MAP LEGEND open section

café/restaurant

start/finish point

hut

point of interest

accommodation

hill/mountain

state highway

Former Chair of Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails Inc. Richard Leggat

GREAT RIDE • THE OLD GHOST ROAD

etched out below the hut. It’s a 4km cluster-ruck of rock gardens, tight turns, slippery bits and an energy-sapping pinch to reach the spectacular Skyline Ridge. Just when you think you’re going to fall off the edge of a cliff, you encounter the Skyline Steps – the engineering marvel down which you carry your bike. The run into Stern Valley is a fun, snaking and gravity-assisted affair.

STERN VALLEY HUT TO GOAT CREEK HUT, 14KM

© AA Traveller 2022

The trail soon enters the Earnest Valley, quite the sight with its soaring peaks, alpine gardens and tarns. Arguably the valley’s most spectacular sight, however, is the Boneyard – a massive field of rocks crushed and scattered by seismic forces. Undeterred, the Old Ghost Road cuts a zigzag track right through the heart of it. Having climbed through the rock garden to Solemn Saddle, the trail now breaks into the headwaters of the Goat Creek catchment, and flows downhill to the Mōkihinui River’s South Branch and Goat Creek Hut.

GOAT CREEK HUT TO SPECIMEN POINT HUT, 11KM

riding the trail 1600m 1200m

Start

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Lyell Saddle

Ghost Lake

12km

13km

18km

Stern Valley

Specimen Point 25km

End 17km

800m 400m 0m

LYELL CAR PARK TO LYELL SADDLE HUT, 18KM

It’s hard to believe it now, but during its 1870–80s heyday Lyell was a thriving gold town lined with shops and pubs.

It was then that the building of a road between Lyell and Mōkihinui (near Seddonville) began, with construction starting at both ends. The end of the gold rushes and seemingly impassable terrain spelled the end of the effort, and so the story begins… The trail climbs gently into the thickly forested Lyell Valley via the original dray road, passing

relics of the olden days along the way.

It crosses two massive earthquake slips, scrambles through rocky fords, and offers increasingly impressive views as it winds up a total of 765m to Lyell Saddle Hut – 875m above sea level.

LYELL SADDLE HUT TO GHOST LAKE HUT, 12KM

As the trail continues upwards it passes a broken anvil where the original old road builders gave up the ghost. Little did they know that more than a century later a local crew would pick up the gauntlet and cut the track all the way up to the

exposed Lyell Range tops. It’s a bit of a slog through the forest to reach the bush line, but beyond it the world seems to open up to infinity. The trail cuts across the face of Mt Montgomery and a highpoint (1280m), all the while affording truly incredible views. Eyes popped, mind blown, it’s time to descend back through stunted alpine forest to reach Ghost Lake Hut.

GHOST LAKE HUT TO STERN VALLEY HUT, 13KM

Many riders may find themselves somewhat psyched out by the descent

This section weaves through towering podocarp forest with a ferncovered floor and birds twittering here and there. At Mōkihinui Forks – where two branches of the Mōkihinui River meet in a turbulent swirl – a hut provides respite from the sand flies should you wish to take a break. From here, though, it’s only 3km to Specimen Point Hut – a terrific spot for an overnight stop with its grandstand views over the Mōkihinui’s surging white waters.

SPECIMEN POINT HUT TO NORTHERN TRAILHEAD, 17KM Following the old-timer’s trail, this last leg hugs the side of an impressive gorge, crossing bridged streams and the unsettlingly named Suicide Slips, and passing the occasional gold mining relic. The trail finishes on the doorstep of the Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge, where the café is open during the high season and accommodation is available year-round.

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Highlights of the trail

GREAT RIDE • THE OLD GHOST ROAD

• The town of Lyell once throbbed with commerce, but it’s hard to imagine such bustle now. With little more than a cemetery left, when gold mining dried up in 1900, Lyell did too.

• Lyell Saddle Hut sits 875m above sea level with formidable views.

Specimen Point Hut looks over the Mōkihinui’s surging white waters, and Ghost Lake Hut has its own outdoor shower.

• Pass gold rush relics and dilapidated huts strewn with bits of crockery.

Deserted settlements to look out for include Gibbston, Eight Mile and Seatonville.

• You’ll need a head for heights to negotiate the track scratched into the slopes of Rocky Tor. • Heart in your throat moments include Skyline Ridge, the steeply stacked Skyline Steps, bridged streams and the disturbingly named Suicide Slips.

• The sign for Heavens Door, shortly before Ghost Lake Hut, presents a stretch of seriously narrow track with stupendous drops.

• Ghost Lake is a small, alpine tarn, shrouded in colourful plant life, with a namesake hut.

• Earnest Valley houses the Boneyard. Tectonic forces have shaved huge rock boulders off the mountains and scattering the basin with these stoney off-cuts.

• In Seddonville, access the popular Charming Creek Walkway. A 10.5km ramble with mining relics, the 25m-high Mangatini Falls and an abandoned mine.

LEFT: © Anka Martin INSET: Cycling the Old Ghost Road © Sven Martin

MURCHISON > see PAGE 87

Adventure base camp Adventure bike tours

Opene d Nov

2021

Nelson Airport return The Gorge • Paparoa • Old Ghost Road plus many more

www.otbtamurchison.co.nz

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK ACCOMMODATION & BIKE TOURS

30 Fairfax Street, Murchison • PHONE: +64 3 523 9011 • EMAIL: Info@Otbta.co.nz WESTPORT > see PAGE 87

www.palmcourtwestport.co.nz Luxurious NEW property; mix of Studio, 1-Bedroom, 2-Bedroom and 3-Bedroom units, central location, radiator and underfloor heating, modern sleek kitchens, unlimited FREE WIFI, guest laundry, Tariff: from $175 Studio.

99 Waller St, Murchison • P: +64 3 663 2030 RES: 0800 854551 • E: murchison@grandsuites.co.nz

www.grandsuitesmurchison.co.nz 86

Reservations: 0800 472 567 306 Palmerston St, Westport

• Sunny location • Walk to shops • Motorcycle & cycle friendly • Free WiFi • Tariff: from $130.00 (2 persons), extra $15 Well-travelled tourists say “the best motel we’ve stayed at”

ADD-ON TRAILS Old Ghost Road Roundabout: 85km/2–3 days A serious adventure for experienced riders, this track joins forces with The Old Ghost Road Trail to form a loop.

EXPLORE MORE Buller Gorge: Wild but handsome.

The West Coast’s largest river, the Buller, weaves between Westport and Murchison. The latter is the self-titled ‘white-water capital of New Zealand’.

Natural flame bush walk: Believe it or not, a natural flame has been

burning in the forest for a century. Join a four-hour walking and 4WD tour to see this marvel for yourself. Departs twice daily from Murchison.

Mountain biking: Drive 40 minutes south of Seddonville for mountain biking at Denniston Plateau. Nine

circuit trails are rated Grade 2 and 3.

Westport: Famed for its coal mining past, check out Coaltown Museum and learn all about life underground.

Seasoned surfers enjoy Tauranga Bay and Carters Beach that is just five minutes from town while whitebait

lovers will want to visit at Labour Weekend for the annual Whitebait Festival. Trails recommended by locals: Kawatiri Coastal Trail and Kawatiri River Trail are family-friendly walking and cycle trails packed with flora and fauna, history and rugged coastlines.

WESTPORT > see PAGE 87

If travelling for business or pleasure, make Westport Spa Motel your place to unwind, rejuvenate & enjoy.

DIRECT BOOKING

DISCOUNTS P: +64 3 789 7979

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Beautifully renovated and refurbished. BULLER COURT on Palmerston Street is comfortable and stylish but still with all those little extras that our guests love!

• FREE UNLIMITED WiFi • 50+ Guest Select Sky channels • Breakfast service • Complimentary EV charging points

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235 Palmerston Street, Westport P: +64 3 789 7979 • E: stay@bullercourtmotel.co.nz 87

GREAT RIDE • THE OLD GHOST ROAD

Charming Creek Walkway © Miles Holden

Westport to the Old Ghost Road: 17km/1 hour This one-hour ride bridges the gap between Westport and the Old Ghost Road roundabout, and in turn, The Old Ghost Road Trail.

It’s a relatively quiet highway which weaves through some very pleasant bucolic landscapes. The mountain views aren’t half bad, either.

Winter riding © Jason Blair, Katabatic Creative

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

WEST COAST WILDERNESS Trail TRAIL INFO

4-5 Days 133km

BEST FOR: An easy to access and an easy to ride venture into Aotearoa’s green heart.

GREYMOUTH

ROSS

4-5 days

133km

Stretching from Greymouth’s historic port to the neat old gold town of Ross, this easy trail takes riders on a journey through the Coast’s incredible natural landscapes, and back in time to Māori pounamu (greenstone) gathering and the glittering gold rush era.

T

here’s no better way to get up close to the West Coast’s lush rainforest, pristine rivers, tranquil lakes and rugged beaches, with the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps a truly sublime backdrop – especially in winter, a fabulous time to ride.

Easy to reach and to ride, the

88

spectacular multi-day trail retraces old packhorse tracks, tramlines, railways, water races and historic bridges, linked by flowing singletrack.

Many natural wonders are revealed along the way, while small towns and heritage sites offer a chance to delve deep into the region’s fascinating history.

Divided up into four roughly equal sections, this trail runs between Greymouth (the West Coast’s ‘big smoke’) and the small old gold town of Ross. We describe it on the following page in that north-to-south direction, but note that it’s equally enjoyable ridden in either direction.

With each leg taking around three to five hours, there’s plenty of time to check out attractions and linger in scenic spots along the way; factor in an extra day to dawdle and detour if your itinerary allows.

Unique points of interest include the twists and turns of an historic water race, a West Coast Scenic Waterways Cruise in the beautiful Mahinapua Scenic Reserve, an exhilarating treetop walkway at West Coast Treetop Walk and so much more.

Accommodation, shuttles and luggage transfers make it easy to ride the whole trail, or experience it on a range of different day trips.

TOP TIP – Pack for all weathers including a raincoat and togs for a swim in one of the West Coast lakes. Lake Kaniere is regarded by many as the most beautiful, so well worth a visit.

TRAIL GRADES: GREYMOUTH TO KUMARA, 28KM GRADE 2 (EASY) KUMARA TO MILLTOWN, 40KM GRADE 2 (EASY) to GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MILLTOWN TO HOKITIKA, 31KM GRADE 2 (EASY) to GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) HOKITIKA TO ROSS, 34KM GRADE 2 (EASY) to GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good in towns and on much of the coastal sections of the trail.

Virtually no coverage south of Kumara to Kaniere township.

DRINKING WATER: Water is readily available in towns and tourist stops along the way.

TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid bike is sufficient for the terrain. E-bikes are also permitted.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

open section highway section start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre bridge town café/restaurant toilets car park accommodation

MILLTOWN TO HOKITIKA, 31KM

camping

It’s time for the largely effortless sweep down towards the Arahura River. Emerging from bush into farmland after a few kilometres, the views of the Arahura Valley are quite the reveal. Across the river, the trail follows Milltown Rd for the gentle climb over Pyramid Hill to Lake Kaniere. Heading onward to Hokitika, the historic Kaniere Water Race is a pretty and fun section of trail. It connects with Lake Kaniere Rd, a quiet byway leading to Hokitika. If the skies are clear late in the day, don’t miss an evening ride (or stroll) along the beachfront to Sunset Point.

shelter state highway

HOKITIKA TO ROSS, 34KM

© AA Traveller 2022

riding the trail Greymouth 28km

Kumara

40km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Milltown

31km

Hokitika

34km

Ross

400m 200m 0m

GREYMOUTH TO KUMARA, 28KM

A photo stop is obligatory at the flood wall official start/finish gate before heading off along the Grey River flood wall. The river-mouth breakwater is a dramatic spot to reflect on the perilous river mouth and shipwrecks, and enjoy the rugged coastline. From here the trail follows the coast south,

tucked behind flax-lined sand dunes and beside tidal lagoons. A signposted detour at Paroa leads to Shantytown Heritage Park (6.5km return), a major West Coast attraction and a must-visit for the history buff. The trail crosses its first notable river, the Taramakau, then hops onto the historic Kumara Bush Tramway for a delightful wind through regenerating forest and farmland with

some terrific views out over the river.

This leg finishes at the Kumara Domain.

Check out Kumara’s splendidly restored Theatre Royal Hotel, perfect for a pub lunch or a memorable overnight stay.

KUMARA TO MILLTOWN VALLEY, 40KM

Smooth terrain with a gentle gradient makes easy work of the 317m climb to Kawhaka Pass, which starts by

An excellent option for beginners and families, this particularly flat section of trail starts by crossing Hokitika Bridge, with the Southern Alps in full view up front. A few kilometres in, a signpost indicates West Coast Scenic Waterways where a boat cruise or kayak trip on Mahināpua Creek can be factored in before continuing onward through impressive forest to meet the intriguing Mananui Tramline that cuts through bush and a historic pocket of exotic forest. Excellent information panels relay stories of Mahināpua’s rich past. From the end of the tramline, the trail follows a rural road to reach the West Coast Treetop Walkway where there’s a canopy tour and café. Beyond that, the trail soon reaches the main highway and follows it a short way to meet the historic Ross rail route. The old railway line is a long and straight haul, broken up with information panels and bridged creeks. It offers ever-changing views of wetlands and farmland backed by the mighty Southern Alps. The restored Totara Bridge (1908) is also a scenic highlight. From there it is a leisurely cruise into Ross, an old goldfields town with an information centre and small museum (where you can try your hand at gold-panning).

Complete your ride with a photo in the photo frame south of the centre overlooking the lake.

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GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

winding through Kumara’s back blocks up to Kapitea Reservoir.

Carrying onward, the subsequent Loopline Reservoir features a stoneface dam hand-laid in 1883 by gold miners. A sweeping boardwalk leads to a predominantly bush-lined gravel road section before the trail picks up old water races, logging trams and pack tracks up the valley, passing man-made dams and weirs. The Southern Alps are well and truly in view as you reach Kawhaka Pass and begin the descent through virgin rainforest to reach a suspension bridge stretching across a stunning gorge. The home run continues through more native bush, before arriving at Milltown.

MAP LEGEND

Highlights of the trail • Nature, anyone? Find scenic reserves, wetland, rainforest, pristine lakes, snow-dipped peaks, rivers, beaches and beautiful waterways, complete with swing bridges.

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

• Hokitika Gorge boasts water that is an astonishing electric blue. You won’t want to leave without crossing the swing bridge to admire dramatic gorge scenery. Located 33km from central Hokitika.

• Don’t miss the photo frame overlooking the lake behind the visitor centre at Ross.

• The Kaniere Water Race is crystal clear. Listen out for the noise it makes, which is a gentle gurgle.

• The Theatre Royal Hotel in Kumara is loved by many. The restaurant has been beautifully restored, and the brand-new standalone cottages are brimming with fetching antique furniture.

• Come nightfall, venture a step or two behind the Theatre Royal Hotel to spy glowworms.

• Stay at Scenic Waterways and hire their kayaks for a four to eight-hour sojourn on Lake Mahināpua. Alternatively, enjoy a sunset lake cruise aboard the Eco Adventurer.

• Arahura River is an important source of pounamu (greenstone) for the local Māori people. Pounamu, glass and other art studios abound.

ABOVE: West Coast Treetop Walk © West Coast Wilderness Trail RIGHT: Hokitika Gorge © West Coast Tourism

W

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T ES

C OA S

T

Natural Beauties of the WEST COAST

Cape Foulwind’s 7km return walk will have you navigating the coastal bluffs while keeping an eye out for the kekeno/fur seals’ breeding colony.

Paparoa National Park holds many a treasure, but perhaps most famously are the Punakāiki Pancake Rocks. Forged 30 million years ago they are partnered with erupting blowholes and a ferocious surge pool named the Devil’s Cauldron.

A 5-minute walk away, the Punakāiki Cavern can be reached via an unassuming wooden stairway descending

into 130m of safe, explorable passageways.

Staying inside the Paparoa National Park, you’ll find Pororari River’s crystal waters surrounded by forested limestone shelves.

Kayaking is the best way to immerse yourself and nearby operators provide all the equipment.

Subterranean adventures are underfoot! Journey into ancient cave systems, through rushing water, abseiling across chasms lit by resident glowworms with the Underworld Adventures guiding the way.

Climb up through dense forest, admiring the flora and fauna at West Coast Treetop Walks, then spiral up the 40m-high Hokitika Tower for epic views above the canopy. A stone’s throw away is Lake Mahinapua for a dip.

BOOK DIRECT FOR THE BEST DEALS

ASURE HIGHPARK MOTOR INN

Reservations – online check in: www.asurestay.com

11 spacious self-contained ground-floor units; studio, 1-bedroom & 2-bedroom units • SKY TV • FREE WIFI • Guest laundry & BBQ • Continental Breakfast • Near by: Aquatic Centre & Westland Recreation, supermarket & restaurant/bar • Charge-back meals available at local restaurants

90 High Street, Greymouth • P: +64 3 768 4846 • E: reservations@highpark.co.nz GREYMOUTH > see PAGE 92

www.highpark.co.nz • FREE phone: 0800 844 846

91

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Charming Creek North Walkway Bring your boots, bikes and dogs to enjoy the 5.5km track and Grade 3 bike trail, venturing past old mining sights to reach Mangatini Falls.

Pancake Rocks and blowholes © West Coast Tourism

STEP BACK In Time

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Westport is famed for its coal mining past and the Coaltown Museum is packed with fun exhibits and hands-on displays to learn about life underground. Be sure to pack a 50 cent piece to run the sand pump.

and interpretation boards convey stories of the hardy folk that lived and worked in this remote and extreme environment. Due to recent landslips, there is limited access to the Dennison Plateau, so check before you go.

The tiny settlement of Denniston, sits over 500m above the Tasman Sea and played host to a marvel of engineering: a 1670m-long incline coal railway with a gradient of nearly 45° in places. Reconstructions

Greymouth made a name for itself during the coal mining and goldrush eras. The History House is a museum packed with relics from this time, while nearby Brunner Mine Site was a significant mining

location with coke ovens, a brick factory and tunnel remnants.

Shantytown, a recreated gold-rush village 11km south of Greymouth, will transport you back to life 200 years ago, with more than 30 authentic buildings, including the original 19th century church and schoolhouse. Enjoy a ride on a vintage steam train, pan for gold, experience a working sawmill, and dress up in olden day costumes.

Greymouth, Māwhera Quay RIGHT: Shantytown BOTH © West Coast Tourism

ADD-ON HEARTLAND TRAIL Touring the West Coast: 402km/6–8 days Connecting the West Coast Wilderness Trail with Central Otago via Haast Pass and the national highway, this mammoth voyage serves up some dazzling scenery.

GREYMOUTH > see PAGE 92

GREYMOUTH

GREYMOUTH KIWI HOLIDAY PARK & MOTELS

Greymouth Seaside TOP 10 Holiday Park

Easy access to the West Coast Wilderness Trail and the Paparoa Track which includes the Pike29 Memorial Track.

0800 867 104 2 Chesterfield Street, Greymouth top10.co.nz

Motels | Units | Cabins | Sites • Seaview Apartments • Vehicle Storage • Bike Hire • Spa • Shuttle Advice • WiFi • BBQ area

Sundowner Motel Greymouth

Relaxing surroundings...

• • • • • •

1 min walk to beach FREE Unlimited WiFi FREE hot spa & BBQs Hot showers included Kitchen/TV lounge Access facilities

• • • • • •

Motel units Sky TV Standard cabins Powered and tent sites Laundry Children’s playground Pets by arrangement

Phone for reservations: 0800 101 222

92

14 Smith St, Greymouth Phone: +64 3 768 4666 E: stay@sundowner.co.nz

Reservations:

0800 080 859

www.sundowner.co.nz 318 Main South Rd, Greymouth P. +64 3 762 6768 E stay@greymouthkiwi.co.nz

www.greymouthkiwi.co.nz

• 100% Kiwi-owned & operated. Set back from the road: 11 modern studio units, 5 family units, serviced daily.

• Free WiFi, guest laundry. Free train transfers.

• 5min walk to town, shops, restaurants and bars.

Centrally located for all tourist attractions.

• Tariff: $130-$160 (2 persons).

First motel at the start of the cycle trail

H

okitika is a town of many riches.

Founded on a gold rush in 1864, it emerged as a bustling town with a roaring nightlife along its ‘golden mile’.

Today, Hokitika retains much of that frontier-town countenance with its wild west features. Though quieter now, there’s still plenty of riches to discover – namely, pounamu.

Hokitika

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Hokitika is located near a traditional source of pounamu (jade) and there is a range of expertly crafted jewellery and sculptures sold here. The town’s creative spirit is also evident in its interesting art and craft trail.

Hokitika’s coastline is an experience in itself. No visit is complete without a walk along the wild West Coast beach, awash with stories and strewn with driftwood.

At the National Kiwi Centre, you can view kiwi rummaging in dimly lit enclosures and see tuatara, native fish and 80- to 100-year-old eels.

For panoramic views of the Hokitika Valley and access to displays of the mining heritage of the area, head up to the Rimu Point Lookout at the top of Rimu Hill. The one-hour, 4km loop walk takes you over the Kaniere Bridge. Alternatively, pick up a leaflet from the Hokitika i-SITE and follow the Heritage Trail that loops the perimeter of the township.

ABOVE: Hokitika Gorge bushwalk RIGHT: Kiwi at the National Kiwi Centre BOTH © West Coast Tourism

HOKITIKA > see PAGE 93

Quiet & Secluded Your comfort is our concern Simon & Jill Robinson

Carve your own piece at

Bonz ‘N’ Stonz Come & create your very own carving out of jade, bone or shell with the help of our master carvers. In our sessions you learn about the significance of carving in Māori culture, carving & designing your own piece to take home.

16 Hamilton Street, Hokitika, 7810 P: +64 3 755 6504 E: bonznstonzonline@gmail.com

www.bonz-n-stonz.co.nz

12 ground-floor units Full cooking facilities 50 metres from the cycle trail Drop-off service availiable – call for more details • SKY Guest Select 50+ • Free unlimited fibre WiFi • Guest laundry • • • •

Free Phone: 0508 54 94 94 214 Weld Street HOKITIKA 7810 P: +64 3 755 8160 • E: annabellemotel@xtra.co.nz

www.annabellemotel.co.nz

BIKES, HIRES & REPAIRS ALSO ACCESSORIES, CAMPING & SPORTS

33 Tancred St. Hokitika

03 755 8662

www.hokitikasportsworld.co.nz 93

Reefton Mountain Biking © West Coast Tourism

Boutique accommodation in the heart of Hokitika Steeped in local history, this iconic listed building has been lovingly restored and converted into five beautifully styled holiday apartments.

• Free Hi Speed Unlimited Wifi • E-Car Charger • Tesla Charging Station • Free Parking • Bicycle Storage • Courtyard with open fire place

Email: bookings@hokitikafirestation.co.nz

Hokitika’s Kiwi

More mountain biking, please

HOKITIKA

Gold miners of yesteryear sure knew how to build a long-lasting track – perfect for today’s bikers.

HOLIDAY PARK AND MOTELS

HOKITIKA: Within rideable distance from downtown Hokitika, Blue Spur combines 32 single track trails. You’ll need advanced skills to negotiate the mix of rough and smooth.

Hokitika’s newest Holiday Park & Motels...

• 15min walk to town • Motel self-contained units – studio, 1 & 2-bedroom • Cabin & Powered Sites • Modern amenties block & laundry

• Massive communal area • Bike washdown facility • Lock-up bike storage with charging facilities for E-Bikes • Free WiFi

160 Davie St, Hokitika P +64 3 755 5141 E office@hokikiwihp.co.nz

Freecall reservations: 0800 115 322 www.hokitikakiwiholidaypark.co.nz

GREYMOUTH: Navigate 4WD tracks on the Grade 3 Napoleon Hill mountain bike track. Riders need prior permission from the landowner. Visit www.doc.govt.nz for contact numbers.

REEFTON: Kirwans Track, Blacks Pt and Big River Rd and Hut are all Grade 3+ trails, with some technical sections reaching Grade 5.

THE WEST COAST’S

Exciting NEW Attraction

Opening Summer 2022

An exhilarating treetop adventure among temperate rainforest giants.

Experience life with birds high in the ancient rimu and kamahi tree canopy.

Easy access for all to enjoy along a steel platform 20 metres high and over 450 metres long. Come and enjoy a leisurely 45-minute to one-hour stroll.

Freephone: 0508 TREETOPS www.treetopsnz.com 1128 Woodstock-Rimu Rd, Hokitika RD 3 • 15 minutes south of Hokitika Email: bookings@treetopsnz.com

$5

OFF

GREAT RIDE • WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

For reservations visit: www.hokitikafirestation.co.nz

Expires: Sep 2023

94

Conditions: This voucher entitles the bearer to $5 off the entry and all-day passes. Not valid with any other discount deals or special offers. (AA)

West Coast Treetop’s dual zipline starting from the existing tower 47 metres high, travelling through the giant rimu trees.

Our 500 metre dual ziplines will allow you to race your partner, friend or family. A whole new way to experience the West Coast Tree Top Walk & Café, soaring metres from the treetops.

Freephone: 0508 TREETOPS www.treetopsnz.com Email: bookings@treetopsnz.com 1128 Woodstock-Rimu Rd, Hokitika RD 3 15 minutes south of Hokitika

Treetop Walk, stay at the peaceful DOC campsite, swim in the lake and reconnect with nature. The lakes, creeks and swamps host an array of native trees, fish and birdlife.

Explore more

TOP TIP: Make the most of Mahinapua Scenic Reserve on a West Coast Scenic Waterways Cruise.

Lake Brunner receives so many tannins from surrounding rainforest, it’s almost black. This makes for startling reflections of the mountains. These glacial waters are a magnet for trout-fishing devotees, boat trippers and outdoor enthusiasts embarking on one of the walks.

Lake Brunner © West Coast Tourism

hub of gold-mining activity, now Ross Home of the Honourable a popular stop off on the West Roddy. In 1909, New Zealand’s Coast Wilderness cycling trail. Visit largest gold nugget was discovered in Ross, weighing in at 2.81 kilogram. the Theatre Royal Hotel, the West Coast’s only fully restored gold A replica of Big Rod sits in the Ross miners’ hotel; over the road, read Goldfield’s Information Heritage about the district’s fascinating Centre. The original was gifted history on display panels. In to the English monarchy, melted November, you can enjoy good into a tea set and subsequently Reefton mountain biking © West Coast Tourism old-fashioned fun in the form of ‘misplaced’! raffles, market stalls, vintage bike Kumara Town Once a bustling rides and Can Can girls at the

Kumara Gala Day. Lake Mahinapua Part of Mahinapua Scenic Reserve and a stone’s throw from West Coast

Lake Kaniere Drive or ride 24km inland from Hokitika for swimming spots, a jetty, biking and walking routes, and secret picnic nooks on this picturesque lake.

80 GIBSON QUAY HOKITIKA P: +64 03 755 8641 For a taste of good old WEST COAST hospitality RELAXED DINING EITHER IN OR OUTDOORS www.pioneerhotel.co.nz

Shining STAR Beachfront Accommodation • Direct Beach Access • Opposite Glowworm Dell

16 Richards Drive, Hokitika

• Feed NZ’s Giant Eels Feeding times: 10am, 12 noon & 3pm daily

• Guaranteed to see a kiwi • Catch and release a crawly

HOURS:

Summer 9am-5pm Last admission: 30 minutes before closing

64 Tancred St, Central Hokitika P/F: +64 3 755 5251 E: natkiwi@xtra.co.nz www.thenationalkiwicentre.co.nz

Email: shining@xtra.co.nz

MOTELS & HOLIDAY PARK

0800 744 646

• Small Farmyard with Animals • Apartments, Chalets, Cabins, Powered and Non-Powered Sites • Free WiFi

www.shiningstar.co.nz

STATIONS INN

• Offering an award-winning restaurant and luxury accommodation.

• Surrounded by majestic views of the Southern Alps and the Tasman Sea, capturing breathtaking sunsets.

• Evening dining from 6pm Tues-Sat. Bookings are advised.

11 Blue Spur Road, Hokitika • www.stationsinnhokitika.co.nz P: +64 3 755 5499 • E: info@stationsinnhokitika.co.nz

95

BLENHEIM TO HANMER SPRINGS

MOLESWORTH Muster Trail

3-5 days

207km

HEARTLAND RIDE • MOLESWORTH MUSTER TRAIL © AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND open section optional route start/finish point point of interest AA Centre i-SITE Visitor Centre hill/mountain town café/restaurant toilets car park camping shelter accommodation state highway

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

1500m 1000m 500m 0m

96

Molesworth Station

Blenheim 117km

Hanmer Springs 90km

TRAIL INFO

Molesworth Station © Department of Conservation BELOW: Sheep in Awatere Valley © Marlborough NZ

BEST FOR: Delving into the last frontier.

3-5 Days 207km

ACCESS: This cycle route is generally open to public access from Labour Weekend until Easter, subject to weather conditions and fire danger. To request access outside of the open period, please contact the Department of Conservation’s South Marlborough Area Office for an access permit. Cyclists are advised against riding this trail during winter or after heavy rainfall. If you do ride outside the open period, on an access permit, please keep DOC updated if your plans change.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Little reception outside Blenheim and Hanmer Springs areas.

DRINKING WATER: Water can be drawn from the river and streams along the route. While it is mostly suitable for drinking, it is recommended that water is boiled (3min) before drinking.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is essential for the remoteness and terrain; e-bikes are permitted.

GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) Molesworth sign in Awatere Valley © James Gilmour

Venture onto old dirt roads journeying from Blenheim to Hanmer Springs via Rangitahi Molesworth, both a Recreation Reserve and working cattle station. You will see more sheep and cattle than civilisation as you journey through.

M

ost riders start the 207km trail from Blenheim, taking the Taylor Pass Rd to the Awatere Valley, skirting the banks of both the Awatere River, and later, the Acheron River.

Shifting between grassland and hillside, it’s not a technical ride, but at 207km, it’s lengthy. Some of the steeper inclines will give your thighs a good workout, too.

To compensate your aches, the scenery astounds. Waterfalls, cirque basins and tarns are etched from glaciers from previous ice ages, while the vegetation, especially in Clarence River Valley is a

palette of colour. As you pass into Marlborough wine country, the route is littered with vineyards.

The ride finishes in the exotic spa town of Hanmer Springs, where a replenishing hot pool is exactly what your legs are begging for.

TOP TIP – From Hanmer Springs, why not detour (by approx 35km) on to the Hurunui Trail? This Heartland Ride offers a quieter and safer alternative to SH 1, taking riders from the Pacific Coast to the north of Christchurch over three to four days. See page 104.

Highlights of the trail • Campsites such as historic Molesworth Cob Cottage (1866) and Acheron Accommodation House (1862) once served early travellers.

• Molesworth Rd is lonely but beautiful.

• Enjoy a spot of fishing, bird watching or a splash in one of many swimming holes.

• Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa features over

14 mineral pools, waterslides and an indulgent menu of spa treatments. If one visit is not enough, stay overnight at the Chalets Motel, a short walk from the pools.

• Wither Hills Farm Park offers a range of bike trails for all levels, just a 10min drive from Blenheim.

• Expand your ride – Rainbow Trail (see page 98) and the St James Trail (see page 100).

riding the trail Starting in Blenheim, head south from the i-SITE to reach the bridge where you can drop down to the shared walking and cycling path running alongside the Taylor River. Follow the Taylor river Trail south for approximately 8.5km (there are paths both sides and numerous bridges along the way as far as Taylor Dam. Turn right on to Taylor Pass Rd. Stay on this road, which travels up over Taylor Pass and down into the Awatere Valley.

Hang a right on to Awatere Valley Rd and follow your nose past some of Marlborough’s famous vineyards all the way up the valley and then through Molesworth Station.

Molesworth Station is a working farm, so please keep to the road. Leave gates as you find them and respect stock and property.

Approaching Hanmer Springs you’ll come to a three-way junction at the top of Jacks Pass. If you’re keen for more cycling, you could always hang a right here onto the Rainbow Trail, a 112km cycle trail through to St Arnaud – you’ll want to restock supplies in Hanmer first, no doubt.

Heading left down Clarence Valley Rd, you’ll enjoy a long downhill into the Hanmer Springs township and the famous hot thermal springs, which will do much to help your recovery.

97

HEARTLAND RIDE • MOLESWORTH MUSTER TRAIL

TRAIL GRADE: GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

ST ARNAUD to HANMER SPRINGS

RAINBOW Trail

2-3 days

112km TRAIL INFO

MAP LEGEND Rainbow Trail optional route

HEARTLAND RIDE • RAINBOW TRAIL

To Hanmer Springs Ski Area

2-3 Days 112km

start/finish point point of interest hill/mountain

TRAIL GRADES:

i-SITE Visitor Centre

ALL GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

town

ST ARNAUD TO COLDWATER CREEK, 68KM

café/restaurant

COLDWATER CREEK TO HANMER SPRINGS, 51KM

toilets

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: No mobile coverage on this trail.

camping hut

DRINKING WATER: There is no treated drinking water along the route. Some huts may have water supplies, although this is not assured in spells of dry weather. There are many clear streams along the way.

accommodation state highway

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape gravel touring or mountain bike is essential for the remoteness and terrain; e-bikes are permitted – there are no charging stations.

IMPORTANT: Access to Rainbow Road is seasonal and can be closed due to heavy rain or fire risk. The best time to ride is when it’s open to public access (from Boxing Day to Easter Monday). There is a road toll (currently $5 for bikes) payable at the Old Rainbow Homestead.

For up-to-date road information, check www.rainbowstation.co.nz/ rainbow-access © AA Traveller 2022

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

ADD-ON TRAIL

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

1400m 1200m 1000m 800m 600m 400m 200m 0m

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St Arnaud

Hanmer Springs 112km

Golden Downs Trail: 66km/1 day This links Nelson Lakes National Park with Wakefield and Tasman’s Great Taste Trail to form a continuous touring route.

BEST FOR: Head in the clouds; nothing on your mind.

Rainbow Trail Island Pass BELOW: Rainbow Trail BOTH © Gill Wratt

Take on the original stock route between Marlborough and Canterbury by travelling from St Arnaud to Hanmer Springs. Remote and relatively challenging, the higher you climb, the greater the isolation.

T

he trail starts by winding its way to the Old Rainbow Homestead. There are also two working farms to pass through: Rainbow Station, which is privately owned, and Molesworth Station, managed by the Department of Conservation.

Once in the high-country, it’s just you and the natural habitat for company. Cycle past streams, gorges and breathtaking views spanning several high-country lakes. On the last day you’ll arrive in Hanmer Springs, where you can call it a day, or if you’re keen, forge on.

Embark on the St James Great Ride or head back to Blenheim via the Molesworth Muster.

HEARTLAND RIDE • RAINBOW TRAIL

TOP TIP – From Hanmer Springs, get to both Kaikōura and Christchurch by detouring (by around 35km) onto the Hurunui Trail Heartland Ride.

Alternatively, the 66km Golden Downs Connector Ride heads south from Nelson Lakes National Park to Wakefield.

Other connecting trails include the St James Trail and the Molesworth Muster Trail.

Highlights of the trail • St Arnaud is the main gateway to Nelson Lakes National Park where there are two stunning alpine lakes: Rotoiti and Rotoroa. Discover lakeside walking tracks and longer hikes.

• Lake Tennyson is a scenic high-country lake found on the eastern fringe of Nelson Lakes National Park. Isolated and insanely beautiful, it’s ideal for picnics, camping and fishing.

• In winter, the Rainbow Ski Area hosts powder hounds and alpine climbers.

• Ascend into true alpine country. The highest point is Island Saddle, a lofty 1372m.

riding the trail ST ARNAUD TO COLDWATER CREEK, 68KM At the turn-off from the main road, the Rainbow experience really begins. The route takes you up a bush-clad valley to the Rainbow Homestead, where the vista changes as the trail fords a number of streams and crosses a bridge over the Wairau River before entering ‘Hell’s Gate’, a scenic narrow gorge. You’ll find Coldwater Creek campsite just above the gorge and the boundary between Rainbow and Molesworth stations is just a little further on from there.

COLDWATER CREEK TO HANMER SPRINGS, 51KM The turn-off to the Sedgemere Sleepout

is located just after the trail recrosses the Wairau River – it’s a few hundred metres down a side road off the trail. A short detour past the sleepout car park will provide you with a spectacular view over several high country lakes.

This scenic high-country glacial lake sits in a beautiful, isolated spot at the headwaters of the Clarence River on the eastern fringe of the Nelson Lakes National Park. You can go camping and fishing here.

The track climbs gently into true alpine country to reach the rustic musterers’ shelter, Island Gully Hut. From there it’s another 6km or so in granny-gear to reach the highest point on this route – Island Saddle (1372m) – also the boundary between Marlborough and Canterbury.

Approaching Hanmer Springs there is a three-way intersection before Jacks Pass on the northern side. If you’re keen for more cycling, continue left here on to the Molesworth Muster Trail through to Blenheim. You might want to stop in Hanmer to restock supplies first, though.

Not far from Island Saddle, a further detour (3km) will take you to Lake Tennyson, a scenic lake formed by a glacial moraine dam – an ideal spot for a picnic.

Heading right down Clarence Valley Rd, you’ll enjoy a long downhill into the Hanmer Springs township and a soak in the famous hot thermal springs.

NOTE – ACCESS & CAUTIONS Access to Rainbow Rd is seasonal and can be

closed due to heavy rain or fire risk. The best time to ride is when it’s open to public access (from Boxing Day to Easter Monday). While access can be obtained outside of the open period, cyclists are advised against riding this trail during winter or after heavy rainfall.

Cycle this route at your own risk – safety is your responsibility. Plan your ride in advance, go well equipped and please respect the rights of the landowner.

Access through this land is a privilege, not a right, so please keep to the trail and do not venture on to farmland.

Leave gates as you find them and respect stock and property. Be prepared to encounter both livestock and vehicles at any point along the trail.

99

Biking in Hanmer Springs © Hanmer Springs Photography BELOW: St James Cycle Trail © Bevan Trielbels

ST JAMES Cycle Trail GREAT RIDE • ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

PLEASE NOTE: The trail is currently impassable at McArthur Bridge (36km) with no access across the Waiau River. All other elements of the trail are open.

TRAIL INFO 1-2 Days 64km

MALING PASS CAR PARK to ST JAMES HOMESTEAD 1-2 days

64km

Wide dirt tracks and expansive grassy flats stretch for as far as the eye can see. The lofty mountain peaks that look touchable are in fact, days of climbing away, and churning rivers cut through the landscape in seeming silence, until you get closer, and the water roars like a storming brigade.

F

or the fittest of riders, the St James Cycle Trail can be knocked on the head in one day, but it pays to experience the trail over two.

Sunrise and sunset in such remote parts is a big bonus, and you’ll get the chance to stay overnight in charming old huts. St James Station was one of New Zealand’s largest high-country farms, dating back to 1862 and there are still a handful of preserved farmers’ buildings to mooch around.

Most remnants, however, have been swallowed by golden valleys and beech forest.

Along the route you will pass through broad river valleys framed by crinkled mountainside. Rivers lead to hidden lakes and there is much wildlife: herds of wild horses are commonplace and nonchalant rabbits roam defiantly, having long since broken through the 1889 ‘rabbit-proof’ fencing.

This ride is challenging in parts, but on a sun-filled day, when the rays beam on golden meadows, it really is perfect.

SEE PP 96 & 98 FOR NEIGHBOURING HEARTLAND RIDES 100

TOP TIP – From Hanmer Springs, why not detour (by approx 35km) on to the Hurunui Trail? This Heartland Ride offers a quieter and safer alternative to SH 1, taking riders from the Pacific Coast to the north of Christchurch over three to four days. See page 104

TRAIL GRADES: MALING PASS CAR PARK TO WAIAU 4WD ROAD END, 12KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) to GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) WAIAU 4WD ROAD END TO SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE, 15.5KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE TO SCOTTIES HUT, 14.5KM GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) to GRADE 5 (EXPERT) Note: Impassable at the McArthur Bridge. No access across the Waiau River.

SCOTTIES HUT TO ST JAMES HOMESTEAD, 17KM GRADE 2-3 (EASY TO INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is lost once you go over Jacks Pass from Hanmer Springs.

DRINKING WATER: Available at various points along the trail, most easily accessible near the huts; note that boiling or treating it is recommended. Be sure to carry plenty in high summer.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is essential.

E-bikes are not permitted on trails graded 4 and above.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) GRADE 5 (EXPERT)

MAP LEGEND open section optional route start/finish point point of interest bridge bridge closed town café/restaurant toilets

shelter hut car park accommodation state highway i-SITE Visitor Centre

© AA Traveller 2022

riding the trail 1600m 1200m 800m

Maling Pass car park 12km

Waiau 4WD Road End 15.5km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Saddle Spur Bridge 14.5km

Scotties Camp Hut

17km

St James Homestead

400m 0m

MALING CAR PARK TO WAIAU 4WD ROAD END, 12KM

Those with a sense of adventure will feel pretty excited as they head off on the 4WD track into instantly big-hitting vistas. There are glimpses of Lake Tennyson as the trail winds steadily around the foothills of the St James range, climbing 250m over 6km to reach Maling Pass. A pretty big reveal from the highpoint (1308m) grows ever

McArthur Bridge closed greater on the descent, which winds down through alpine tussock and beech forest, and passes an 1889 rabbit-proof fence long-since breached by the bunny brigade. On the floor of the valley, the 4WD track levels out and comes to an end along Waiau River’s east bank.

WAIAU 4WD ROAD END TO SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE, 15.5KM This section of trail starts out on a purpose-built cycle track that soon

emerges into wide river terraces near the junction with the sidetrack to Lake Guyon. It’s well worth riding the extra 20min or so each way (5km in all) to Lake Guyon hut, as it takes in different vantages of the incredibly pretty lake and surrounds. The old hut is also a particularly nice spot for a break from the bike with the opportunity for a cooling dip – even if it’s just a toe. Back on the main trail, riders follow the old stock and farm tracks meandering

down valley over the grassy river flats, passing by Little Lake and Muddy Lakes before arriving at the spectacular Saddle Spur Bridge. A herd of wild horses inhabit this area and can often be seen grazing the river flats.

SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE TO SCOTTIES HUT, 14.5KM PLEASE NOTE: McArthur Bridge is closed and impassable.

This is the most challenging section of the trail, with 240m of climbing made all the more testing by some rocky and uneven terrain. Some narrow downhill sections and steep drop-offs require particular care, especially as any uncontrolled dismount may see you plough headlong into thorny matagouri. Having crossed to the river’s western side via the bridge over a stunning rocky gorge, riders are faced with the push over Saddle Spur. Down the other side, the track meanders another 5km or so to Pool Hut – micro-sized and a little bit mousey but well positioned around the middle of the trail. The trail then comes to the McArthur Bridge, which at the time of print, is impassable.

There is no access across the Waiau River. When the bridge reopens, you would continue by following an old farm track up a series of terraces before winding steeply to Charlies Saddle. The changing views are to die for; the climb you will survive. An invigorating descent leads to a bridge over the Edwards River and the hunters’ haven, Scotties Hut.

SCOTTIES HUT TO ST JAMES HOMESTEAD, 17KM

A 4WD track leads up the meadowlined Edwards Valley, with the terrain generally smooth save for short stretches of rocky riverbed and four unbridged stream crossings. A worthwhile 10min detour leads to Cow Stream hot springs. The trail makes its final sizeable climb out of the valley to reach Peters Pass, from where an easy downhill run wends down the smaller but no less beautiful Peters Valley. A series of farm fences signals the approach to St James Homestead, which appears straight out of the pages of New Zealand’s high country farming history. Be sure to nosy around the old farm buildings before you leave.

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GREAT RIDE • ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

camping

‘This is a real tourism asset and I have no doubt it will draw thousands of cyclists a year.

The landscape is stunning.’

Former Minister of Conservation, Kate Wilkinson

Amberley Beach © DWB

Highlights of the trail • Career down river on an exhilarating river rafting adventure along the Clarence River Dazzling scenery make this a 10/10 experience.

• Intrepid stays at rough-and-ready highland huts. For the lavish amongst us, a short detour leads to the more luxurious Anne Hut. • A short but steep trail arrives at the 41m Dog Stream Waterfall. Sturdy footwear is recommended as the track is rocky and slippery, often muddy after rainfall.

• Skinny swing bridges teeter over thrashing rivers.

• The fast and fun downhill ride to Ada Homestead is exhilarating and shin-deep river crossings add to the adventure. Ada Homestead is worth checking out with early colonial-run buildings that are constructed from mud and wooden studs.

• Formed after the 1929 Murchison earthquake, detour to the incredible Maruia Falls.

GREAT RIDE • ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

• St James’ wild horses are living the dream in the hinterland, standing stoic on the prairie.

• Along the second section, take a short detour to picturesque Lake Guyon for a quick dip.

• Cow Stream hot springs Don’t miss the 10-minute detour to two naturally heated rock pools bubbling with hot water.

• River crossings This route provides several challenging river crossings, mostly across Edwards River. Do not try to cross if the rivers are flooding.

ALONG THE TRAIL

a secluded campsite.

LAKE TENNYSON An isolated high-country glacial lake in the headwaters of the Clarence River. There’s also

DETOUR: CHARLIE’S SADDLE The ascent to the brow of Charlie’s Saddle will provide you with stunning views.

Top places in Hurunui Cheviot Enjoy coastal scenery, wander through the Cheviot Domain and experience 1850s rural life at Cheviot Museum.

Nearby Gore Bay is a holiday hot spot with surf and rock pools.

Hanmer Springs This alpine town has excellent walks, ski fields and its praised Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa.

Culverden Browse the selection of paintings and prints by local artists at Culverden Gallery, with prices that won’t make your eyes water. The gallery has limited opening hours so call ahead.

Waikari Come for the Māori rock drawings found on the Weka Pass Walkway and stay for breathtaking sunsets.

Amberley This relaxed rural town pours some of the area’s best coffee. Venture 17km south for the Old School Collective, a boutique retail complex complete with florist, gift store and antiques sold from revamped classrooms.

HANMER SPRINGS > see PAGE 102

Feel the fun in

HANMER SPRINGS for all skill levels, just 10 minutes from town.

QUADRICYCLE Cruise around town and share the workload on a four-wheeler with your cycle companions. Stop in for a slice or two at Springs Pizza. © Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa

SLIDE & SPLASH! Fling yourself down the waterslides at Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa, rewarding yourself with another round or a relaxing soak in one of the 12 open-air thermal pools ranging from 28-42°C. MOUNTAIN BIKING Not content to kick back and relax? Climb to the 550m summit of Conical Hill which zigzags skyward through pine trees.

Alternatively, the 25km purposebuilt Hanmer Forest network is mountain biking heaven, with tracks

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SKIING & BOARDING Hanmer Springs Ski Area is 17km from town, offering a small, low-key snow experience with a variety of groomed runs, off-piste courses and three ski lifts.

JET-BOATING Put yourself in the hands of the experts for a thrilling and adrenalin pumping Jet-boat ride on the Waiau River.

RIVER RAFTING Head down stream through the Waiau Gorge for wet and wild thrills. Stopping for a swim or a jump off the rocks into crystal clear waters, weather permitting.

When only the best will do • 10 studio & family apartments (sleeping 2-6), 1 with access facilities • Gas water heating, inverter heat pumps, complimentary WiFi • Sky Select all channels & flatscreen TV in all units, DVD player • On-site laundry facilities • Private terrace with outside dining facilities, safe on-site parking.

• 8 out of 10 units have double-size spa baths • Ideally located for all walking & cycle trails including St James • Secure undercover bicycle storage • Car parking and secure left-luggage facility whilst away on trails • Complimentary Welcome Basket • Tariff: From $190 (2 persons) • Designated smoking area Proudly Kiwi owned and operated by resident proprietors Robert & Rhian Sluggett 121 Argelins Road, Hanmer Springs • Tel: +64 3 315 7211 Email: alpinespringsmotel@xtra.co.nz

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www.alpinespringsmotel.co.nz

For extensive information and special options visit our website

• Completely separate self-contained chalets set amongst spacious green grounds with stunning mountain views • 1 & 2-bedroom units with full kitchen • FREE WiFi, 50+ SKY channels & DVDs • Your own parking for car, trailer & bikes • Spacious play area, BBQ, laundry • Easy stroll to thermal pools and town centre • Rates from $145 for 2 persons

56 Jacks Pass Road, Hanmer Springs P: + 64 3 315 7097 • E: reservations@chaletsmotel.co.nz

www.chaletsmotel.co.nz

GREAT RIDE • ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL

HC HST2591_C

Experience it all in the beautiful Hurunui region!

Just 45 minutes north of Christchurch, make the most of the numerous tracks and trails which weave their way through this magical part of the world. Take in rugged coastlines, sandy beaches and lush green forests all by cycle. Then, treat yourself to a rejuvenating soak at the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa, the perfect way to end the day!

Head to VISITHURUNUI.CO.NZ today and start planning your visit 103

HURUNUI Trail

Five Rivers, Around the Mountains Cycle Trail © Tourism NZ

KAIKŌURA to CHRISTCHURCH 3-5 days

260km TRAIL INFO

BEST FOR: Submerging yourself into the rural life, where every inch of scenery confirms that our countryside is seriously good-looking.

HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

3-5 Days 260km

TRAIL GRADES: ALL GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) KAIKŌURA TO MT LYFORD VILLAGE MT LYFORD VILLAGE TO WAIAU WAIAU TO CULVERDEN CULVERDEN TO HURUNUI BRIDGE

Hurunui Trail, Mt Lyford to Kaikōura © bennettandslater.co.nz BELOW: St James Cycle Trail ©Bevan Triebels

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South Island’s rural beauty is allconsuming. This is a ride where you’ll stop often, bike stationed before yet another glorious landscape while you pause to appreciate the rolling views.

resh country air, punctured pleasantly by the rich smell of farmland, the Hurunui Trail provides a quieter, safer alternative to SH 1, through gorgeous countryside communities laced by large pastoral farms, tussock land, creeks, rivers, vineyards and hilltops crackled with remnants of snow.

the trail can be ridden in either direction via a series of low traffic country roads. Cars are infrequent but trundling tractors must be expected. Cattle being moved may also slow your progress, but is there anything more delightfully rural than stopping to watch a farmer work their land?

Connecting Kaikōura to Canterbury,

The journey will see you crossing

TOP TIP – If you want more, this trail is conveniently close to the St James Cycle Trail Great Ride, as well as the Molesworth Muster, Rainbow Trail and Little River Rail Trail Heartland Rides.

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HURUNUI BRIDGE TO WAIKARI TURN OFF

both the Kowhai and Waiau rivers, using a mix of seal and gravel roads over a mostly flat terrain, but with just enough segments of undulated track to allow for some fun slopes.

Fling your legs up and re-enact childhood.

There is an opportunity just past the small village of Culverden to detour off the trail by 36km to Hanmer Springs. Cyclists feeling the aches of exertion will welcome the hot pools at Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa. Back on the main track, solitude is an expected highlight; sometimes there will be nothing but you, the road and views as far as the eye can see, but keep a look out for ancient landforms chiselled into their new faces by the massive 2016 earthquake, the beautiful vineyards of the Waipara wine region and limestone outcrops along Pyramid Valley Rd. Once in Christchurch, your ride expels its agricultural cloak, and the fizz, pop, whizz of a modern city takes centre stage.

WAIKARI TURN OFF TO AMBERLEY AMBERLEY TO KAIAPOI KAIAPOI TO CHRISTCHURCH MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Generally good with just two trail sections currently with no coverage – 50km of the Inland Kaikōura Rd (10km from Kaikōura through to Mt Lyford); and also a 12km section on Broxton, MacDonald Downs and Ram Paddock roads in the hills to the north of Amberley.

FOOD & WATER: There are numerous cafés and shops in all the towns on the route, with the longest unserviced stretch the 61km between Kaikōura and Mt Lyford Lodge.

TYPE OF BIKE: With approximately 20km of gravel, a sturdy touring style bike is recommended.

E-bikes, with sufficient battery capacity, are permitted in accordance with New Zealand Road Code. Riders should ideally have basic mechanical skills and carry a tool kit; most villages on the route have general mechanical repairs available.

GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

© AA Traveller 2022

HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

MAP LEGEND open section optional section start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets ford camping accommodation state highway

riding the trail 600m 500m 400m

Kaikōura 61km

Mt Lyford Village 22km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Waiau

Culverden

30km

26km

Hurunui 26km

Pyramid Valley

Amberley 40km

38km

Christchurch Kaiapoi 20.8km

300m 200m 100m 0m

KAIKŌURA TO MT LYFORD VILLAGE, 61KM The ride starts by

crossing the Kōwhai River via a ford and on to SH 70 – also known as the Inland Kaikōura Rd. Entering rolling hill country, the route soon crosses from the Kaikōura District to the Hurunui, climbing several inclines and passing over the Conway River and the historic Doone Station and grave site. The landforms around here still show the effects of the massive November 2016 earthquake, with the road crossing faultlines and scars. From the high point at the Whalesback it is downhill to Mt Lyford Village where the lodge will be a welcome sight.

MT LYFORD VILLAGE TO WAIAU, 22KM From the village, it’s

a downhill run to the farming town of Waiau, the village most damaged by the 2016 earthquake and famous for its country hotel and ice creams.

WAIAU TO CULVERDEN, 30KM

After crossing the Waiau River, the route turns towards the Kaiwara Hills, with some rolling gravel roads before crossing the Amuri Basin to Culverden. Hanmer Springs is a 36km side trip up SH 7/7a. A popular visitor resort for its hot springs, cafés and mountain biking, it is also the gateway to the St James, Rainbow and Molesworth Muster trails.

CULVERDEN TO HURUNUI BRIDGE, 26KM This largely flat, sealed

section leaves Culverden in a westward direction to follow the edge of the Amuri Basin out to Balmoral Station. It then heads back to the Hurunui Bridge, on the south side of which is an historic hotel.

HURUNUI BRIDGE TO WAIKARI TURN OFF, 20KM Another flat, sealed road section, this starts on SH 7 for 3km before heading off on quiet rural roads through Hawarden and on towards Waikari.

WAIKARI TURN OFF TO AMBERLEY, 45KM The route turns to the west at Pyramid Valley Rd, famous

for its limestone outcrops and winery.

The route heads over the hill country of the Waipara Gorge, with 19.5km of gravel riding including several climbs.

Care is required due to rural traffic, sheep, tractors, milk tankers among it.

Having returned to the sealed road, it’s a picturesque descent to the vineyards of the Waipara wine region, and on to the busy rural town of Amberley.

AMBERLEY TO KAIAPOI, 38KM

After refuelling in Amberley (check out Little Vintage Espresso), head out of town on the gravel path beside the highway before branching inland on Grays Rd. Assuming the weather is fine, follow signs continued on p.106

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continued from p.105

to a dry ford of Kowai Stream (after high levels of rain riders may have to take the wet-weather route). Either way, the route links into the Ashley gravel path, crosses the Ashley/Rahakuri River and then follows the signed bike path to reach the Waimakariri hub-town of Rangiora. Here, there’s a range of cafes, restaurants and supermarkets to choose from.Heading south from Rangiora township, look for the Passchendaele Memorial Path. Opened in 2021, this lovely shared path leads past farmland to Kaiapoi. Upon reaching the Kaiapoi River at the edge of town, the route crosses a small footbridge to Raven Quay and then heads to the centre of town.

KAIAPOI TO CHRISTCHURCH

HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

Leaving the quiet river town of Kaiapoi on Peraki and Vickery Streets, look for the shared path beside Main North Road. At Tram Road, safely cross the mighty Waimakariri River via the new bridge path, and then follow the long, smooth shared path that goes all the way to Christchurch. On the edge of the city, the path turns into Rutland Reserve, and then heads down Rutland Street and other streets all the way to Colombo Street, which takes cyclists right into the centre of Ōtautahi Christchurch.

This revitalised city is the South Island’s largest and is a wonderful place to explore on two wheels – navigate your way round with the Christchurch City Council’s cycling maps.

Highlights of the trail • Get a taste of Hurunui’s backyard situated well away from the state highway and discover plenty of little townships frequented by few. For those keen on fishing, trout, whitebait and salmon flush the rivers.

• Tuck into Kaikōura famed seafood, notably the plump crayfish.

• The modern Kaikōura Museum housed in the ‘craypot’ building is worth a visit as is the Mayfair Theatre with its fully renovated art deco cinema and artists’ hub.

• Sample the wine varietals in the boutique wine region of Waipara.

• Terrace Edge is a delightful family owned vineyard in Waipara, tended purely by hand. As well as exceptional grapes, the vineyard features a 2000-strong grove of olive trees.

• Waiau was the village most damaged by the 2016 earthquake and famous for its country hotel and indulgent ice creams.

• Cosy Mt Lyford Lodge offers food, drink and accommodation.

• Charming inside and out, the historic Hurunui Hotel has held its licence continuously since 1860 and has maintained its vintage good looks. Nip inside for home brews and good food.

• Frog Rock found in the middle of Weka Pass is a giant frogshaped rock surprises – and delights – passing travellers.

• Spend some time exploring Amberley and the nearby charming towns in the Hurunui District.

• Check out Iron Ridge Quarry Sculpture Park; a 14-minute drive from Amberley, the kinetic creations are not to be missed.

Cycle Waimakariri

Cycling in Kaikōura © Andrew Spencer

Wild Kaikōura

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aikōura is a haven for animal lovers, with various wildlife taking up residence in the area. Jump on a boat tour to get up close to these wonders; giant sperm whales can be seen here all year round as well as dolphins, seals, albatross and, depending on the season, other whale species.

One of the more surprising and affordable wildlife activities is to swim with fur seals. Snorkel in the shallow waters of the Kaikōura Peninsula or, if you prefer to stay dry, walk to the Point Kean seal colony to observe them napping on the rocks. Treat seals with caution. Avoid getting nearer than 20m and keep dogs well away.

KAIKOURA > see PAGE 106

THE ANCHOR INN BEACHFRONT MOTEL KAIKOURA

Fully self-contained comfort on the Esplanade • Waterfront location with outdoor seating at every room for magnificent ocean and mountain views • FREE WiFi • 50+ Sky Channels • TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence 2011-2020

208 Esplanade | Kaikoura | New Zealand Email: info@anchorinn.co.nz

Reservations Freephone: 0800 72 00 33 Book Online: www.anchorinn.co.nz

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2021

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ump on your bike and explore the cycle trails of Waimakariri. A network of fun, family friendly trails that connects contemporary towns with beautiful braided rivers, wide open sandy beaches and expansive rural landscapes.

Wharfedale Track Enjoy this 15km cycle trail that is accessed from the View Hill car park, 14km from Oxford.

Rakahuri Trail Keen cyclists will want to give this 18km one-way cycle trail a go. With access from the northern end of the East Belt in

Rangiora, this fun trail runs alongside the Ashley Rakahuri River.

Tūtaepatu Trail This 5km one-way top cycle trail can be accessed from Kiwi Ave, Waikuku Beach and will take you to a spring-fed freshwater wildlife sanctuary with stunning flora and fauna.

Pegasus Trail This 10.5km one way ride will take you through the beach settlement of Pines/Kairaki into the forest to Woodend Beach.

ABOVE: Ashley Rakahuri Regional Park © Visit Waimakariri

WHY NOT MAKE A DAY OF IT? HEARTLAND RIDE • HURUNUI TRAIL

KAIAPOI RANGIORA OXFORD CUST OHOKA WOODEND WAIKUKU PEGASUS

Explore the eclectic shops and enjoy coffee at the Brick Mill Complex in Waikuku.

10.15AM

Ride the Rakahuri Trail from Waikuku Beach to Rangiora through the forests along the Ashley/Rakahuri River.

11.00AM

Pop in to Rangiora for a quick bite or more leisurely graze at the wholesome Fools of Desire Café.

1.00PM

With over 60 kms of cycleways and tracks, river, beach, mountain walks and hikes, 10 km of coastline, 70 eateries and a number of different things to do such as cruise, kayak and row up the Kaiapoi River, find out why Waimakariri is the perfect place to make a day of it.

Find out what else is on offer at visitwaimakariri.co.nz/discover

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LITTLE

River Rail Trail

CHRISTCHURCH SQUARE to LITTLE RIVER 1 day

60km Cycling Little River Cycle Trail © Christchurch & Canterbury Tourism

HEARTLAND RIDE • LITTLE KAIPARA RIVER MISSING RAIL TRAIL LINK

TRAIL INFO 1 Day 60km

TRAIL GRADE: CHRISTCHURCH SQUARE TO LITTLE RIVER GRADE 2 -3 (EASY TO INTERMEDIATE) a 60km ride taking 5-7 hours

Oyster catcher © Alan Cressler

From Christchurch’s city centre, this trail follows the route of a 19th century railway line passing through Prebbleton, Lincoln, Motukarara and Birdlings Flat to reach the pretty village of Little River, nestled at the base of Banks Peninsula

Highlights of the trail • The Bone Dude’s Carving Studio, Birdlings Flat • Phytofarm, Little River • French Peak Vineyard, Banks Peninsula • Gemstone & Fossil Museum, Birdlings Flat • Te Waihora/Lake Ellesmere’s birdlife, Birdlings Flat • If you want more, this trail connects to the 260km Hurunui Trail.

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he Little River Rail Trail takes you on an elemental journey passing through rural areas and settlements on the Canterbury Plains. Skirting past the massive flanks of the ancient volcanoes making up Banks Peninsula along the shores of Lake Ellesmere/ Te Waihora and Lake Forsyth/Te Roto o Wairewa, internationally significant for abundant and diverse bird life, this trail is suitable for riders of all abilities.

Engaging places of interest along the way, include the Motukarara Station and Kaituna Quarry /

Ātaahua Reserve, where there is a short track to the lakeside. A 2km detour to Birdlings Flat, offers up breath-taking ocean views over to Canton’s Bay and the chance to stroll along the beach of the Kaitorete Spit, which is rich in gemstones, particularly agates.

The trail is flat and easy, with a variety of surfaces from asphalt (Christchurch to Lincoln) to hardpacked gravel (Ahuriri to Little River). There are a number of car parks along the way making the sections very accessible for shorter rides.

Although most of this trail is off road, some sections are on urban streets and country roads. You should be prepared to meet traffic, mostly between Prebbleton and Motukarara. There are no hills, and apart from the possibility of striking a headwind, this ride is physically easy. There is not a lot of shade so remember to take your sunscreen. During spring there can be large numbers of flies around Waihora (Lake Ellesmere) and Wairewa (Lake Forsyth). Face masks and sunglasses work well to keep them out of your face.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: There is coverage along the whole ride, however it can be patchy between Motukarara and Little River, especially during bad weather.

DRINKING WATER: There are cafés and places to buy supplies at Prebbleton, Lincoln and Little River but it pays to carry water bottles and snacks.

TYPE OF BIKE: Almost any type of bike is suitable for this ride, though sturdy types are best for riding on gravel surfaces.

GRADE 2 (EASY)

riding the trail CHRISTCHURCH SQUARE TO PREBBLETON, 15KM

PREBBLETON TO LINCOLN, 8KM

Mostly an off-road sealed route beside Birchs Rd, adjacent to the original railway line, through pleasant rural surroundings, wide enough for bidirectional cycling. You will ride on the road for 350m then turn left into Tosswill

LINCOLN TO MOTUKARARA, 15KM

The trail leaves Lincoln along Edward St/ Lincoln Tai Tapu Rd sharing the footpath to Liffey Springs; stay on the cycle/ footpath as it follows the river after the spring. Cross the river on either the cycle bridge or the concrete bridge and enter

the wetlands. Continue following the river downstream and enter the cycle path between the river and a field. This track goes to Moirs Lane leading away from the river until its end at Ellesmere Rd. Follow the dedicated cycle path through the fields and straight onto Collins Rd East for about 200m, turning right into River Rd (single file riding is recommended) which follows the Halswell River. Follow River Rd until it becomes Geddes Rd – there are Rail Trail signs that guide you to an off-road cycle path which follows the river downstream.

The section of the trail from Neills Rd is a mostly smooth, off-road surface and highly scenic area of riding. The route is adjacent to the Halswell River but deviates away onto farmland for approximately 1.7km along the Ahuriri Reserve to avoid disturbing visiting bird life. Continue on the path until it crosses a bridge and ends at a fork in the road.

Follow the Rail Trail signs, keeping left onto Park Rd, eventually crossing Duck

Pond Rd and continuing straight across Fiddlers Rd. After just 200m, look for the old railway station to your left where the trail goes off-road again.

MOTUKARARA TO LITTLE RIVER, 23KM

From Motukarara the trail follows the old railway line past the regenerating wetlands of Te Waihora/Lake Ellesmere.

During spring there can be large numbers of flies around these lake areas, so face masks and sunglasses are ideal to keep them out of your face.

The off-road car park at Kaituna Quarry/ Ātaahua Reserve provides a pick-up point for those not continuing further and a chance to explore the remnants of the quarry’s origins. An easy ride follows alongside Te Roto o Wairewa/Lake Forsyth. This section is relatively remote, all gravel, and has no shops so go well prepared. The trail ends at Little River, tucked into the nook of the steep Banks Peninsula hills with a popular café, art gallery and accommodation.

MAP LEGEND open section optional route start / finish point point of interest AA Centre / Service i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets car park camping accommodation state highway © AA Traveller 2022

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Christchurch 100m

15km

Prebbleton 8km

Lincoln

Motukara 15km

13km

Little River Birdlings Flat 10km

50m 0m

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HEARTLAND RIDE • LITTLE RIVER RAIL TRAIL

From Cathedral Square head towards Hagley Park and follow the Little River Trail signs to Marshs Rd. This section is easy and sealed, although there are some road crossings. From the outskirts of Christchurch, the trail continues on a sealed, off-road path to Prebbleton, with a short section beside the historic railway line. The route through Prebbleton goes via the Reserve where there are toilets and a rest area.

Rd which is followed for a further 350m to turn right into Oakwood Mews.

About 100m into the Mews there is a signposted path leading to Prebbleton Domain on the right, where there are very good toilets. Following the path around the edge of the domain there is another path leading to Stonebridge Way that will take you to Trices Rd. A short ride to the right up this road provides access to the dedicated cycle path on the edge of Birches Rd that leads to Lincoln.

Stay on this smooth separated cycleway for 6km until you reach Lincoln. The village centre has appealing diversions, perfect for foodies, and the Laboratory craft beer pub to rest your legs.

Cycling Little River Cycle Trail © Christchurch.org.nz

Visit Christchurch E Day trip out to New

Pop into historic Liffey Cottage and Pioneer Hall.

The former was built in 1875 and has since been restored into a working man’s cottage. Don’t miss Ōhinetahi Gardens which have been lovingly transfored into a glorious thing of beatuy, or for a quick dip, Chamberlains Ford is a nature-made plunge iwth public barbecues.

Brighton Beach and immerse yourself in He Puna Taimoana hot pools, a 15-minute drive from Christchurch city.

his playful peninsula is home to a thriving artisan culture, a marine environment teeming with wildlife – dolphins in particular – and New Zealand’s first French settlement, Akaroa, where great dining spots, boutique accommodation and lots of unique experiences abound.

Lincoln Motel There is so much to enjoy in

Lincoln Village

Reservations 0800 001 689 Lockable covered cycle storage Cycle hose-down area High-pressure showers & spa baths New bars, restaurants & cafés Boutique shopping & supermarket Lincoln Farmers’ Market every Saturday H BELT

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Lincoln Motel

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Craig & Colleen welcome you before or after cycling the Little River Trail to stay at the Lincoln Motel.

4-6 Maurice St, Lincoln, Christchurch Ph: +64 3 974 1620 • info@lincolnmotel.co.nz

www.lincolnmotel.co.nz

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You can’t visit the Garden City without exploring the Christchurch Botanic Gardens, nestled in a loop

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A Wheelie Warm Welcome Awaits you at

• • • • • •

xplore its many attractions including its numerous incredible gardens, the Avon River, the International Antarctic Centre, the Christchurch Tram and Gondola, The Arts Centre of Christchurch, Orana Wildlife Park and Willowbank Wildlife Reserve.

Cycling in Christchurch © Nancy Zhou

of the Avon River and surrounded

by Hagley Park. Spend quality time with Mother Nature at the beautifully positioned, and botanically named, ilex Café.

A base for epic adventures, the Christchurch Adventure Park on the Port Hills caters to all. It features downhill mountain biking tracks, zipline tours, a 1.8km-long chairlift to the top and a fully licensed bar.

Banks Peninsula

LINCOLN > see PAGE 110

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HEARTLAND RIDE • LITTLE KAIPARA RIVER MISSING RAIL TRAIL LINK

Lovely Lincoln

There is an instant attraction when you first set eyes on Akaroa.

Sheltered in a pounamu-coloured harbour and surrounded by dramatic hills, this Frenchinfluenced village is charming

in every respect. After some excellent cuisine and a spot of shopping, you can delve into the town’s Māori history and its French connection at the Akaroa Museum.

Don’t miss a walk through the secluded Giant’s House mosaic and sculpture garden, either. Akaroa is renowned for wildlife tours and its scenery, with countless vantage points to soak up the views. All this creates a laidback vibe, but there are also options for adventureseekers – swimming with dolphins being one of the most popular.

Hector’s dolphins © Chalita Aommy Klumjui – Akaroa Dolphins

ALPS 2 OCEAN

At the start BELOW: Alps 2 Ocean BOTH © Rachel Gillespie

Cycle Trail

6 Days 315km

BEST FOR: Discovering New Zealand’s staggeringly diverse landscape in one, ultimate trip.

AORAKI MT COOK VILLAGE to ŌAMARU 6 days

315km

Are you ready for pit stops like no other?

From picnics under snow-capped mountains to refreshing swims in alpine lakes, things are about to get extraordinary. Currently New Zealand’s longest cycling trail, this one takes you from the Alps to the ocean over six incredible days.

TOP TIP – If you decide to start from Aoraki Mt Cook, a helicopter flight is required to cross the Tasman River after an initial 7km of cycling.

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he trail is split into nine parts ranging from easy to intermediate, so it’s also possible to create a day trip.

Alternatively, you could tick off a couple of sections over the course of a weekend. The benefit of making it a multi-day affair is staying at various lodges, motels and cosy B&Bs. Riders can start from either Tekapō or Aoraki Mt Cook from where a mix of sealed road, dirt and grass pathways, as well as smooth and rough shingle make up the route.

Tracks wander below chalky-white mountains of Mt Cook National Park, vast open plains such as the Pūkaki Flats, springy forest trail and six expansive lakes, including the phenomenally blue lakes of Pūkaki and Tekapō.

You’ll take in the lofty views of Aoraki Mt Cook reflecting in Lake Pūkaki.

At the highest point on the trail, you can marvel at the Mackenzie Basin and enjoy long stretches of fast downhill. Take a small detour that leads to the hoodoo-style rock formations at Clay Cliffs. This ride also takes in as many small towns, pubs, cafés and vineyards (specifically in Waitaki wine country) as it does natural highlights, so you’re never too far from good food and a yarn with the locals. Your ride concludes when you reach the Pacific Ocean next to Ōamaru.

TRAIL GRADES: AORAKI MT COOK TO BRAEMAR RD, 35KM GRADE 2 (EASY) LAKE TEKAPŌ TO TWIZEL, 55KM GRADE 2 (EASY) BRAEMAR RD TO TWIZEL, 40KM GRADE 2 (EASY) TWIZEL TO LAKE ŌHAU LODGE, 38KM GRADE 2 (EASY) LAKE ŌHAU LODGE TO ŌMARAMA, 43KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) ŌMARAMA TO ŌTEMATATA, 35KM GRADE 2 & 3 (EASY-INTERMEDIATE) ŌTEMATATA TO KUROW, 44KM GRADE 2 & 3 (EASY-INTERMEDIATE) KUROW TO DUNTROON, 27KM GRADE 2 (EASY) DUNTROON TO ŌAMARU, 54KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage ranges from perfect to patchy. WiFi at cafés & accommodation.

DRINKING WATER: Available in the towns along the trail. There are some long stretches without water, so it will pay to plan ahead.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is essential for the terrain. E-bikes (up to 300kw) are permitted.

FOR MORE INFO: https://www.alps2ocean.com GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

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GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

TRAIL INFO

© AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND open section start/finish point/ key points point of interest hill/mountain bridge helicopter shuttle town café/restaurant

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

toilets car park camping accommodation state highway

riding the trail 1000m

Aoraki Mt Cook Braemar Rd Village 35km 40km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Twizel

Lake Ōhau Lodge 38km

43km

Ōmarama 35km

Benmore Dam 44km

Kurow 27km

Duntroon

Ōamaru 54km

800m 600m 400m 200m 0m

AORAKI MT COOK TO BRAEMAR RD, 35KM The trail starts at White Horse Hill Campground, 2km north of Aoraki Mt Cook Village, offering riders the chance to soak up the stunning mountain scenery before setting off down a glacier-carved valley. It’s just over 7km to Mt Cook airport where a short helicopter-hop transports bikes and riders across the Tasman River to Rotten Tommy. Please note there is a charge for the helicopter ride and

it must be booked in advance. The trail is a little bit lumpy as it winds alongside the Tasman River’s braided waters, which eventually empty into the turquoise blue of Lake Pūkaki. After 10km of riverside trail, Jollie Car Park marks the start of a 17km gravel road section to Braemar Rd. If you wish to avoid the helicopter crossing there are several alternative starts: Lake Tekapō, Tekapō B Power Station or Jollie Car Park.

LAKE TEKAPŌ TO TWIZEL,

55KM The trail’s alternative start takes in the striking contrasts of the Mackenzie Country’s turquoise blue lakes and canals, surrounded by golden tussock plains and bound by majestic mountain ranges. Leaving Tekapō township, the trail heads off on gravel tracks past Tekapō A Power Station, and on to the long but rather lovely Tekapō Canal Rd which is closed to vehicle traffic. The road passes two salmon farms and reaches Tekapō B Power Station. The

trail then drops down to Lake Pūkaki and meets Hayman Rd where riders join the Aoraki Mt Cook section of trail following the shoreline to Pūkaki Dam and across the tussock-covered flats to Twizel.

BRAEMAR RD TO TWIZEL, 40KM The trail follows a country road along the eastern shore of Lake Pūkaki, with notable flora and fauna and Tekapō B Power Station among the highlights. All continued on p.113

112

continued from p.112

eyes, however, will likely be latched on to Lake Pūkaki and the Southern Alps, all the way down to the bottom of Hayman Rd where an off-road trail heads towards Pūkaki Dam. After the dam, riders will have their sights set on the laid-back little town of Twizel, an oasis of green streets amidst the desert-like Pūkaki Flats.

before joining the quintessentially rural Quailburn Rd. Checking out the Clay Cliffs is a worthwhile (14km return) side trip off Quailburn Rd if you have time.

From the SH 8 junction, Ōmarama (with its soothing outdoor hot tubs) is just a few kilometres away.

TWIZEL TO LAKE ŌHAU LODGE, 38KM

It’s a whole new world after Ōmarama.

Over Chain Hills, it’s a big Welcome to the Waitaki Valley with its big blue hydro lakes and little country towns. This short leg takes riders down to Lake Benmore, along its edge past Pumpkin Point and on to Sailors Cutting Scenic Reserve – a popular boating, fishing and camping spot. From here the trail follows the lakeshore on a scenic route expertly carved into the side of the hill until Benmore Dam is reached. Ōtematata is well worth the visit to restock and replenish.

LAKE ŌHAU LODGE TO ŌMARAMA, 43KM

It’s a gentle 6km warm up to Freehold Creek. The next section has a 300m climb to conquer over a generous 5km.

The trail then winds through golden meadows and past an historic woolshed

ŌTEMATATA TO KUROW, 44KM Head back to the Benmore Hydro Dam – the last 800m to the top of the dam is a bit of a grind. From Benmore Dam (New Zealand’s largest earth dam) the trail follows the road along Lake Aviemore (swimming possible) to the Aviemore Dam. The next 16km of newly built trail delivers grand lake and river views and even a ghost town, before

Summer riding © Rachel Gillespie

arriving in Kurow, notable for locally produced award-winning wines (and Richie McCaw).

KUROW TO DUNTROON, 27KM This section follows a smooth shingle path down the Waitaki Valley, traversing ancient alluvial plains and crossing three side rivers. This is the heart of Waitaki wine country – taste it where you can. The trail then hugs the highway as it gets closer to Duntroon, taking a minor detour to Takiroa Māori rock art site along the way.

DUNTROON TO ŌAMARU, 54KM

It’s just 7km from Duntroon to one of the trail’s strangest sights – the huge limestone boulders scattered across a grassy paddock, aptly named Elephant Rocks although mammoths and even hippos may well be imagined. More limestone oddities crop up as the trail leads onward on- and off-road through bucolic farmland to Rakis Railway Tunnel. The trail then hops on and off the railway line through the dots of Windsor, Enfield and Weston, and on to Ōamaru. The town’s magnificent public gardens are a fine prelude to the grand finale of gargantuan Victoria warehouses overlooking Ōamaru Harbour and the Pacific Ocean.

CHRISTCHURCH > see PAGE 110

14 Greig St, Lake Tekapo P: +64 3 366 7049 RES: 0800 587049 E: tekapo@grandsuites.co.nz www.grandsuiteslaketekapo.co.nz

LAKE TEKAPŌ > see PAGE 115

Relax and enjoy the comfort and convenience of a fully self-contained holiday home, your ideal cycle tour base.

Ph 03 6806607 or visit our website for full list and easy online reservations: www.tekapoholidayhomes.co.nz

Luxurious new property; mix of Studio, 1-Bedroom and 2-Bedroom units, stunning views of Lake Tekapo, radiator and underfloor heating, modern sleek kitchens, unlimited FREE WiFi, guest laundry.

Open A ugust

2022

Tariffs start from $350 Studio

www.grandsuiteslaketekapo.co.nz 113

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

The next leg heads out on a pretty country road to reach Loch Cameron at the 6km mark – a great place for a swim if time and temperature are on your side. Just ahead, across the canal bridge, a straight easy pedal leads to the edge of Lake Ōhau. The Ben Ōhau Range dwarfs all and sundry as you follow the lake foreshore across Ōhau Weir and onward along the lake past Lake Ōhau Village to the Lodge. Note: there is no way across Ōhau Weir when it is in flood, so be sure to check this link https://alps2ocean.com/trail-status for updates.

ŌMARAMA TO ŌTEMATATA, 35KM

Highlights of the trail

Lake Pūkaki shoreline – Aoraki Mt Cook in the background BELOW: Aoraki Mt Cook – glacier explorers BOTH: © SouthCanterbury.org.nz

The brave can take a dip in the glacially fed waters.

• Tekapō Hot Springs can be enjoyed by day or night, for star gazing with a difference.

• A slight detour, but a must do, are the immense pinnacles of Ōmarama’s Clay Cliffs.

• In Twizel, see how salmon is farmed, feed the fish and catch your own at High Country Salmon. Accompany it with a trip to the local distillery, handcrafting white-whisky.

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

• For those devoted to the grape, sample a superb drop in the Waitaki’s wine region.

• Ōmarama is famed for its indulgent outdoor hot tubs which are surrounded by bucolic views and tussock land.

• The Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve is the world’s largest dark sky reserve, star gaze in the villages of Tekapō, Twizel and Aoraki Mt Cook is incredible.

• Aoraki Mt Cook is the region’s earthly star of the show and a visit to Lake Pūkaki affords stunning views of the mountain range.

AORAKI MT COOK > see PAGE 116

• Rakis Tunnel is a 500m-long abandoned rail tunnel with no lights. There is an alternative route if that sounds too claustrophobic.

• Save some energy and time for a visit to Ōamaru. A visit to the world’s smallest blue penguins in their colony is a must.

• Waimate Thirty-five minutes from Ōamaru, you’ll find some top MTB tracks, hoppingly cute wallabies and the White Horse Walkway leading to the famous monument.

TWIZEL > see PAGE 115

Aoraki Court Mt Cook Village • Studio & 2-brm luxury units, stunning views of Southern Alps.

• Unlimited free WiFi. • King-size beds, kitchen, spa bath units, radiator heating, laundry, free off-street parking.

0800 435 333 Tariff: (2 persons) studio from $295, 2-brm from $350, extra adult $35, child $25.

www.aorakicourt.co.nz 26 Bowen Dr, Mt Cook Village

114

+64 3 435 1111

info@aorakicourt.co.nz

0800 22 44 75 • cyclejourneys.co.nz • 3 Benmore Place, Twizel

More mountain biking, please

Lake Tekapō night sky © Adobe Stock

LAKE TEKAPŌ

COWANS HILL – 3.2km circuit This well-formed track sits on the outskirts of Tekapō, just past Lilybank Rd. It is a short circuit track, also used by walkers.

TE KAHUI KAUPEKA CONSERVATION PARK – 13km one way Part of Te Araroa, the Richmond Trail meanders along an old glacial terrace.

Enjoy dirt single track and bumpy, technical descents.

LAKE PŪKAKI AND TWIZEL TWIZEL RIVER TRAIL – 12km one way A great trip for the entire family, the trail runs parallel to the Twizel River and provides plenty of shaded rest stops and swimming spots.

BRAEMAR ROAD TO LANDSLIP CREEK – 10km one way

Ride along the top of what is an ancient glacial terrace, leading to Landslip Creek and public conservation land.

ŌMARAMA WAIREPO KETTLEHOLES – 3.5km one way Drive 14km along Quailburn Rd and you’ll see the signpost for Wairepo

Kettleholes Conservation Area. Lift bikes over the stile to gain access.

OTAMATAKOU SCENIC RESERVE – 5km one way A short but striking ride through private farmland that gradually climbs to the Otamatakou Scenic Reserve.

Tour Cycle Company Shop & Tour and Cycle Company Hire

The local Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail experts

Free unlimited WiFi

Just utes 5 4 min raki o A m fro k Mt Coo

• Luxury accommodation with 2 access units • Smokefree • King-size beds • Full kitchen facilities • Heating/airconditioning • Soundstop windows • Breakfast available • Guest laundry • Free off-street parking • Free Unlimited WiFi • Tariff: (2 persons) studio from $175, 1-brm $200, 2-brm $230, extra adult $30, child $15

• Epic Tours on the A20 • Small supported groups • Cycle hire • Ebikes available www.cycleventures.co.nz Ph: + 64 3 398 1255 63 Rata Road Twizel 7901

10 Mackenzie Drive, Twizel • Ph: +64 3 435 0274 Res: 0800 227 365 • E: info@thelakesmotel.co.nz

thelakesmotel.co.nz

115

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

GODLEY VALLEY TO RED STAG HUT – 25km one way A 4WD track traces the eastern side of the Godley River Valley. Continue up the Godley Valley on stony river flats to Separation Stream where the track concludes.

TOP AORAKI WALKS Duck into the Aoraki Mt Cook National Park Visitor Centre for information and advice.

HOOKER VALLEY WALK One of the most popular walks – complete with swing bridges – the Hooker Glacier terminal lake is your prize for a three-hour, mostly flat hike.

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

GOVERNORS BUSH WALK An easy one-hour loop with a gentle climb to the lookout point. Aoraki Mt Cook stands prominently in the background.

GLENCOE WALK Ideal for families, this 30-minute return walk starts from behind the Hermitage Hotel and presents impressive Hooker Glacier views.

MUELLER HUT HIKE A four-hour one-way walk will gift you with jaw dropping views of the Ngakanohi Glacier and Mueller Glacier.

Ōamaru

T

he quirky seaside town of Ōamaru is the last stop on your Alps 2 Ocean journey. It has its own Victorian Precinct complete with old-fashioned shops, a Victorian Steampunk Museum and Whitestone City, where history comes to life. Dress up in Victorian attire and have a ride in the penny farthing carousel. Tour the Whitestone Cheese factory and taste at the Craftworks Brewery.

LEFT: Aoraki Mt Cook © Adobe Stock • ABOVE: © Visit Ōamaru

KUROW > see PAGE 117

LAKE OHAU > see PAGE 117

Kurow Holiday Park

High country lodge on shores of Lake Ohau at base of Ohau Snow Fields & on Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.

• Aoraki Mt Cook, lake views.

• Cycling/fishing/skiing/walking.

• 72 rooms including 30 studios.

• Restaurant/bar. Weddings/groups. Free WiFi. • Tariff $290-$408 (2 persons), incl dinner, bed and breakfast.

Free call: 0800 142 649

Relax and explore in our peaceful park • Choice of tourist flats, cabins

and 3-bedroom shared lodge.

• Fish for trout/salmon in Waitaki

WWW.OHAU.CO.NZ

River/lakes. Safe swimming, canoeing.

• On Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.

• WiFi available.

• Tariff: (2 persons) Tourist Flats $130,

Cabin $55-$70 (linen $10 per night per person), Powered site $40, Non Powered site $ 35. Lodge (Groups only) $40 per person.

Kurow Holiday Park, 76 Bledisloe St, Kurow, Otago Phone: +64 3 436 0725 • Email: office@kurowholidaypark.co.nz Lake Ohau, North Otago • Ph/Fax: +64 3 438 9885 • Email: reservations@ohau.co.nz

www.kurowholidaypark.co.nz

ŌMARAMA > see PAGE 115

AHURIRI MOTELS 0800 438 945

KUROW HOTEL

• 1 4 motel units, studio, 1, 2 & 3-bedroom

•A lps 2 Ocean Cycleway at gate • FREE WiFi •L aundry facilities • Guest BBQ •C entral to shops, restaurants and airfield

The friendly place to stay State Highway 83, Omarama, Otago, New Zealand P: +64 3 438 9451 E: ahuririmotels@xtra.co.nz

BOOK DIRECT FOR THE BEST DEAL www.ahuririmotels.co.nz 116

1880 heritage hotel in town centre • Family-friendly country atmosphere • Clean and tidy with 16 warm, private rooms, 4 with ensuites • Sky TV in bar • On Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail • Garden bar and function room • Free WiFi • Breakfast available • Tariff: $55-$110 (1-2 persons).

55 Bledisloe St, Kurow • P: +64 3 436 0850 • E: kurowhotel@gmail.com

Top towns along the way

Duntroon: A small farming town situated at the end of the Vanished World driving trail, which winds through some spectacular geological sites. Dig for fossils at the Vanished World Centre and head to Elephant Rocks where huge deposits of limestone rock resemble a herd of elephants. Ōmarama: Soak in one of the famous private baths at Hot Tubs Ōmarama. Dotted under a starlit sky and surrounded by

nature, submerge in a basin of pure mountain water until your fingers wrinkle. Speaking of which, the nearby Wrinkly Rams is a sheep shed-cum-restaurant with shearing and sheep dog demonstrations. If you’re an aviation enthusiast, book a scenic flight with one of the town’s glider pilots.

Twizel: It’s impossible to ever get sick of Twizel’s vistas. An ever-present Aoraki Mt Cook

Kurow: Sandwiched between river and mountain range in the Waitaki Valley, Kurow is on the doorstep to a handful of hydro lakes and the braided Waitaki River that is one of the country’ best jet-boating venues.

Lake Tekapō Township: While Lake Tekapō needs little introduction, with its bright turquoise hues, Church of the Good Shepherd and striking purple flowers, the village is charming in its own right. With

a small flurry of cafés, motels and restaurants, it’s not huge, but it perfectly complements the premier attractions.

Lake Ōhau: Just as beautiful as the likes of Lake Tekapō but far less known, Lake Ōhau is a vision of pristine blue water and snowy mountains. Make the effort and you’ll likely enjoy the lake alone. If its winter, pay a visit to the Ōhau Skifields. Not the largest ski field in Aotearoa, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in exceptional staff and stunning scenery and the views across Lake Ōhau are exceptional.

Lake Pūkaki: There simply isn’t a bad Lake Pūkaki vista. However, both Lake Pūkaki Lookout and Peter’s Lookout provide two of the best, stretching as far as Aoraki Mt Cook on a clear day. While here zip across the lake’s vibrant blue waters on a hovercraft, buy Aoraki Mt Cook Alpine salmon from the lakefront shop and visit an Alpine lavender farm that serves delicious lavender-based ice cream.

DUNTROON > see PAGE 117

23328 The Flying Pig Cafe 464669 Eighth Page - Display Duntroon Breakfast – Coffee – Real Fruit Ice Cream Homestyle food & baking made fresh on site

Main Street Duntroon – Open 7 Days P: 021 0862 0428 • W: flyingpigcafe.co.nz

51 Thames St, Oamaru

P: +64 3 434 8416 • Local 100% family-owned business since 1913.

• Full range of cycles, e-bikes & back-up service.

• Also provide fishing gear, toys, key cutting and locksmithing service.

www.martynscycles.co.nz

ŌAMARU > see PAGE 116

Bikes and e-bikes Shuttles - to and from airports

www.hireplus.co.nz • P: +64 3 434 5222 • M: +64 27 5345 222 E: admin@hireplus.co.nz • www.alps2oceancycles.co.nz 117

GREAT RIDE • ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

Tekapō night sky © Vaughan Brookfield

casts its white glow across the skyline, and in autumn, the foliage erupts with a thousand golden hues.

Enjoy one of the many picturesque walks, glide across Lake Pūkaki on a 40-minute hovercraft excursion, or if it’s winter, there are four ski fields nearby.

OTAGO CENTRAL Rail Trail GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

Manuherikia Bridge No. 1 at start of the Poolburn Gorge © Otago Central Rail Trail

TRAIL INFO BEST FOR: Experiencing New Zealand’s original Great Ride, the one that inspired the entire network.

CLYDE to MIDDLEMARCH 1-5 days

152km

It’s the cycle trail that put many of the Central Otago’s small, forgotten towns back on the map. By encompassing all that is warm and welcoming about Central Otago, this former railway track provides an incredibly wholesome experience, and one that is largely nurtured by the locals.

TOP TIP – Autumn is a fantastic season to undertake this ride, notably for the astounding colours of the foliage which are rich in golden hues, but it’s also an ideal time – temperature wise.

118

G

et ready for some good old southern hospitality.

Over the course of five days and 152km, you’ll bank many friendly encounters. All off-road

1-5 Days 152km

and with no traffic to contend with, there’s only expansive terrain and self-reliant townships rich in craftmanship. Country cafés serve coffee and home-made cakes, while the wineries celebrate the region’s grape offerings. You can admire the tough grind of a working farm or discover how New Zealand’s worldfamous wool is grown.

Open year-round, the trail can be started from either end (Clyde or Middlemarch), or broken into shorter 1-4 day-rides to suit your agenda. The experience is designed to be slow, so you can dismount frequently and consume both the delicious scenery and local flavours.

The landscape abounds with railway stations, tunnels and viaducts, as well as fascinating remnants from the gold rush era, including towns that still feature mud-brick walls and stone buildings. For every charming country pub, there are old-world general stores. If anything, you’ve cycled back in time; yesteryear’s simplicities are both the secret and the seduction of Central Otago.

TRAIL GRADES ALL GRADE 1 (EASIEST) CLYDE TO CHATTO CREEK, 25KM CHATTO CREEK TO LAUDER, 19KM LAUDER TO ŌTŪRĒHUA, 22.5KM ŌTŪRĒHUA TO RANFURLY, 25.5KM RANFURLY TO HYDE, 32.5KM HYDE TO MIDDLEMARCH, 27.5KM MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is decent for the majority of the trail, but gets weak or nonexistent in more remote sections.

DRINKING WATER: Fill up your water bottles before you leave your accommodation each day, and refill (or purchase more) as you pass through the settlements.

TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid or mountain bike is recommended.

E-bikes are also permitted.

GRADE 1 (EASIEST)

town

optional route

café/restaurant

start/finish point

toilets

point of interest

accommodation

bridge

state highway

i-SITE Visitor Centre © AA Traveller 2022

riding the trail Clyde

600m

8km

Alexandra

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Ōmakau

29km

Ōtūrēhua 28km

Ranfurly 26km

Hyde 32km

Middlemarch 28km

400m 200m 0m

CLYDE TO CHATTO CREEK, 25KM

Allow plenty of time to explore historic Clyde before you set off. The trail is well signposted from the centre of town. Not long into the journey, it crosses its first railway curiosity – Muttontown Viaduct – one of the trail’s only two wooden trestle bridges without stone abutments.

Orchards, vineyards and pasture line the route to Alexandra, the trail’s largest town, from where it heads through old gold diggings and high-country farms – home to the world’s finest merino sheep.

Schist outcrops scraggle a landscape cut through by the willow-lined Manuherikia River. This section ends at Chatto Creek where there’s a charming country pub.

CHATTO CREEK TO LAUDER, 19KM

Continue through the irrigated lower Manuherekia Valley before ascending the sweeping S-bend up Tiger Hill. At Ōmakau, riders can detour to Ophir, another charming country town, Ophir boasts well-preserved mud-brick and stone buildings from the gold rush, including the photogenic Post Office.

Ride on through Ophir and loop back to Ōmakau via the Daniel O’Connell Bridge.

Constructed between 1879 and 1880, this attractive structure is a characteristic example of Central Otago suspension bridges with schist masonry towers. Back at Ōmakau, the trail meanders through a lovely open landscape flanked by the Dunstan and Raggedy ranges. At Lauder,

admire a clutch of rustic old buildings and breathe in the crisp air – said to be some of the purest on the planet.

LAUDER TO ŌTŪRĒHUA, 22.5KM

As you set off on this easy roll through rugged terrain, spare a thought for the 300 workers who took three years to build the two tunnels and two impressive bridges along the way. Manuherikia No.1 Bridge is first up, from where the trail climbs gradually into the stunning Poolburn Gorge to pass through the two tunnels that cut through sheer schist – ­201m and 230m long respectively.

The trail then crosses the 108m-long Poolburn Viaduct before descending past the old Auripo and Ida Valley stations, and Ida Burn Dam where the ancient sport of curling is played when it freezes over. Ōtūrēhua is a veritable goldmine of local history – don’t miss Hayes Engineering Works & Homestead and the totally eye-popping Gilchrist’s Store. From Ōtūrēhua, it’s possible to take the highly recommended detour to St Bathans – worth visiting for its man-made lake (great for swimming) along with a clutch of historic buildings including a crusty pub. It’s a 20km ride to get there, some reasonable hill climbs en route. Bike back to Ōtūrēhua for a 40km total off trail detour, or rejoin the trail further east at Idaburn, a 39km total off trail detour.

ŌTŪRĒHUA TO RANFURLY, 25.5KM

The latitude line of 45 degrees south is the first notable landmark beyond Ōtūrēhua, follow the intersection with Reefs Rd where a detour may be made to the Golden Progress Mine site and its wooden poppet head. There are splendid views of the Hawkdun and Ida ranges as the trail climbs gently to its high point of 618m above sea level. A little further along is the Wedderburn Goods Shed made famous by lauded landscape artist Grahame Sydney. It’s a good spot for contemplation before the cruise downward across the Māniototo Plains. Before you hit Ranfurly, it’s worth considering a side-trip or overnight stop in Naseby. Around 10km off the trail, Naseby is a little winner with its two lovely old pubs, indoor curling rink, unusual swimming dam and forested MTB trails suitable for all ages. Another 25km on from Naseby is Dansey’s Pass, a one-horse town well off the beaten track, famous for its rustic hotel. Unless you’re super fit and eager, the distance and nature of the terrain make this detour best suited to driving. Back on the main trail, this section ends at the sweet little country town of Ranfurly, notable for its art deco architecture and a smattering of serviceable shops and cafés.

RANFURLY TO HYDE, 32.5KM

This section offers broad views of the Kakanui Mountains and Ida Range as it heads towards Waipīata, where it’s worth cycling up to the historic

Hamilton cemetery for expansive views of the surroundings. As the trail leaves the Māniototo Plain, it skirts the sunken depression where Lake Taieri used to be before it was silted up by gold miners. The trail passes yet another rustic gangers’ shed at Kokonga, then enters the upper Taieri Gorge. This pretty section passes the old Red Dwarf gangers’ hut at Daisybank, and at Tiroiti there’s a well-preserved stone bridge with iron trusses. Further along at Price’s Creek is a notable viaduct followed by a 152m-long, fully bricked tunnel. The trail then enters the open and dramatic country of Strath Taieri Plain. The old gold-mining town of Hyde is a popular place to break the journey.

HYDE TO MIDDLEMARCH, 27.5KM

Check out the Hyde Railway Station, which is presented in almost operating condition, before continuing on an easy downhill ride into the Strath Taieri Plain and its many bridges and culverts.

Just south of Hyde Station, a memorial cairn commemorates the site of the region’s worst rail disaster in which 21 were killed in 1943. The trail traverses the foothills of the 1400m high Rock and Pillar Range with its huge rocky outcrops, before meandering through the valley’s productive farmland to the Ngāpuna Station site. In the east is the 700m high Taieri Ridge. The trail finally reaches its end at Middlemarch.

119

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

MAP LEGEND open section

Highlights of the trail

BELOW: OCRT © Brian R Richards BOTTOM: Clyde Railhead © James Jubb

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

• Breathe in the Central Otago air, said to be some of the purest on the planet, and drink Central Otago wine at one of the many acclaimed cellar doors.

• Meet the people of Central Otago and experience authentic southern hospitality.

• In Poolburn Gorge, two tunnels cut through sheer schist – an impressive 201m and 230m long respectively.

• The town of Naseby is famed for its curling. With both indoor and outdoor rinks, go and give it a whirl (or should that be curl)!

• Orchards and vineyards line the track to Alexandra and a cruise on the Clutha River is highly recommended.

• Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead is a gold mine of local history in Ōtūrēhua.

• Gilchrist’s general store in Ōtūrēhua has original 19th century products on its shelves.

• The now iconic Wedderburn Goods Shed was first made famous by landscape artist Grahame Sydney and has since been bolstered by Instagram users.

• The town of Ophir features preserved mudbrick and stone buildings from the gold-rush era, including a handsome Post Office.

• Ganger sheds freckle the trail. Formerly used by ‘working gangs’ (the men responsible for track maintenance), the sheds provided shelter and a space for ‘smoko’ breaks.

• Art deco Ranfurly Following a series of 1930s fires, Ranfurly was rebuilt with all the art deco flare of the era. The town’s art deco walk absorbs much of this grand aesthetic. The Centennial Milk Bar is an iconic art deco building and houses an attractive art gallery.

• Lake Dunstan Trail opened in May 2021 and links this trail from Clyde to Cromwell. See page 123. Roxburgh and Clutha trails also link to this trail.

CLYDE > see PAGE 121

CALL 0800 BIKE NOW

(245 366)

25 Holloway Street, Clyde Ph: +64 3 449 2228 Email: info@bikeitnow.co.nz

www.bikeitnow.co.nz 1800 446 356 AUS FREEPHONE

or BOOK ONLINE

BIKE IT NOW! CENTRAL OTAGO

ROOM TO MOVE

Quotes from Clients:

• Bike tours, itinerary planning • Half-day to multi-day hires • E-bike hire and retail specialists • Cycle retail • Clothing and accessories • Central Otago Cycle Trails Specialist

The Personal Touch because it is “all about you!”

“Professional and seamless service for the perfect Otago Rail Trail Holiday” Catherine Callaghan - London “Above and beyond expectations” Claudine N - Auckland

• Central to all cycle trails • 6 studios upstairs (some with spa baths) • 4 x 2-brm unit + access unit downstairs.

• 50+ SKY Channels • Close to Sports Complex • Great views from studios to the hills • On-site bike storage

ALEXANDRA HEIGHTS MOTEL

125 Centennial Ave, Alexandra • P: +64 3 448 6366 • Res: 0800 862 539 E: info@alexandraheights.co.nz • www.alexandraheights.co.nz

ALEXANDRA > see PAGE 121

12 Bantry St, Alexandra Ph/Fax: +64 3 448 7400 Email: stay@alparkviewmotel.co.nz

www.alparkviewmotel.co.nz Reservations: 0800 448 740

FREE WiFi allocation

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• Central location. Comfortable, ground-floor fully equipped motel/studio, 1 & 2-brm motel units, access unit.

• Free gas BBQ, outdoor dining.

Extra off-street parking. Free WiFi. • Adjacent to playground/park. Short walk to town centre, RSA, cafés, restaurants • Close to Rail Trail & other cycle trails.

• Large secure cycle storage, bikewash facility.

• Cycle friendly, knowledgeable hosts who enjoy the trails.

• Tariff: $110-$150 (1-2p), extra $20.

Alexandra Holiday Park

Riverside Location

• Groups welcome. Ask about the complex (5 brms, sleeps 30 or Matti Lodge, sleeps 18) • 300 camp sites • Heated ablution block in winter • Cabins, tourist flats, cottages, lodges & family units • Secure bike storage

44 Manuherikia Rd (PO Box 7), Alexandra • Phone: +64 3 448 8297 Email: info@ahp.nz • www.ahp.nz

Alexandra © Will Nelson BELOW: © R. Mackay

GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

For every full turn of your spokes, there’s something good to get off for.

Stop-offs Alexandra: The town's iconic clockface which overlooks the landscape is enormous. For wine lovers, the region specialises in pinot noir and cellar doors are numerous.

Chatto Creek: Duck into the Chatto Creek Tavern and buy some ‘donkey doos’ – a delicious mix of malt biscuits and dried fruit, they’re perfect for kilojoule-burning bikers.

Next door is one of New Zealand’s smallest post office.

Ōmakau: A former mining town in rural countryside, pretty historic buildings are set against Dunstan Mountains.

The latter opened in 1902 and still looks the same.

Naseby: Discover two lovely old pubs, ice rinks, curling, an unusual swimming dam, and forested mountain biking trails.

Middlemarch: Overlooked by the Rock and Pillar mountain range, find cosy pubs, a salt-water lake and small museum.

ŌMAKAU > see PAGE 121

Clyde: Cradled in a basin at the base of an enormous gorge, Clyde was flooded by the nearby hydro dam, but the surviving town centre was declared an historic precinct.

Waipīata: This photogenic dot of

Ōtūrēhua: Small but historic, Ōtūrēhua is home to both the famous Hayes Engineering Works and Gilchrist's Store. The former was established in 1895 by millwright turned engineer, Ernest Hayes.

Wander through the inventor's former home, marvelling at his work.

a town on the Otago Central Rail Trail is drenched in history; check out its fascinating cemetery.

OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL - Creating memories to last a LIFETIME

Cromwell: On the shores of Lake Dunstan, this town is an interesting blend of modern and historic and is famous for its stone fruit.

ALEXANDRA > see PAGE 121

bookings@shebikeshebikes.co.nz - +64 3 447 3271 RANFURLY > see PAGE 120

FERRIS ROAD

RANFURLY HOTEL

BREWERY

ART DECO HOTEL ON THE OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

• Ensuite and Share Facility Rooms

• • • •

Craft beers & cider brewed on site Epic, Emerson & International beers on tap Central Otago wines & non-alcoholic drinks Wood-fired pizzas (gluten-free & vegan options)

Open Thursday to Sunday from 4pm (But check our Facebook/Google pages for seasonal changes) 7 NGAPARA STREET, ALEXANDRA • PH: +64 3 448 7543 DOG-FRIENDLY or +64 27 467 1888 • www.ferrisroadbrewery.co.nz BAR

• Continental Breakfast Included • Free WiFi • On-site Restaurant, Bottle Store, Sports Bar with TAB, Gaming Lounge and Sky TV • Secure Bicycle Lockup 10 Charlemont Street, Ranfurly, Central Otago • P: +64 3 444 9140 E: ranfurly.hotel@xtra.co.nz • www.ranfurlyhotel.co.nz

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GREAT RIDE • OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL

ONWARD TO DUNEDIN Dunedin, 78km further south from Middlemarch, has its fair share of top cycling paths including the 54km Cycle the Loop trail that makes its way around the Otago Harbour.

More Around Moeraki

Otago Central Rail Trail © Otago Central Rail Trail

RANFURLY > see PAGE 120

Ground-floor family & studio units, full kitchens (sleeps up to 6). Quiet, park-like grounds, with outdoor games. Breakfast. Easy walk to bar & cafés, guest laundry, free unlimited WiFi. Otago Rail Trail 100m away. Ice skating/curling. Golf course.

Tariff: units from $140 (1-2 persons), extra person $25.

1 Davis Ave, Ranfurly P: +64 3 444 9383, Res: 0800 100 559 www.ranfurlymotels.co.nz E: info@ranfurlymotels.co.nz

MOERAKI BOULDERS Visit or stay in Moeraki, a small coastal village and home to the famous Moeraki Boulders. A series of huge spherical stones (some as tall as two metres high) assembled on the beach like giant marbles.

SHAG POINT/MATAKEA RESERVE Ten minutes out of Moeraki, this rocky headland was once used by early moa hunters and is the location of burial grounds, fossilised reptiles and sacred Māori sites. The cliff top gives a great viewing area for spotting basking fur seals.

KĀTIKI POINT LIGHTHOUSE Eight minutes from Moeraki is the historical lighthouse, built in 1878, now overlooking the breeding site for yellow-eyed penguins.

PUKETAPU/SACRED HILL Found in the town of Palmerston, a fifteen-minute drive from Moeraki, the scenic walk to the landmark is drenched in outstanding panoramic views.

MACRAES Explore the old Gold Point Stamp Battery and lookout over Frasers Open Pit. It’s a 45-minute drive from Moeraki but well worth the detour.

MOERAKI > see PAGE 122

wedderburn cottages Stay with us at MOERAKI on your cycle trail journey

• Comfortable 1928 farm homestead & 14 attractive, self-contained cottages + miners huts • FREE WIFI • On Central Otago Rail Trail. Under the Hawkdun Range, surrounded by stunning farmland/tussock landscape • Visit the Red Barn for water, toilets, shade, coffee & information.

Ph: +64 3 444 9194 • Mob: +64 27 268 9194 • E: enquiries@wedderburn.net.nz

www.wedderburncottages.co.nz

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• Stunning views & beach frontage • Motel units, tourist flats, cabins, bunkroom (8 people) • Modern facilities, power points & tent sites • FREE WiFi • Close to penguins, seals, restaurants • Tariff: from (2 persons) $75$170, tent/power sites $40

114 Haven St, Moeraki, Otago • Ph/Fax: +64 3 439 4759 Email: moerakivillageholidaypark@xtra.co.nz www.moerakivillageholidaypark.co.nz Hosts: Kristina & Robbie Mitchell

LAKE DUNSTAN Trail

Lake Dunstan Trail © Geoff Marks

TRAIL INFO

TRAIL GRADES: CROMWELL HERITAGE PRECINCT TO BANNOCKBURN BRIDGE GRADE 2 (EASY)

The newest addition to Ngā Haerenga Great Rides of New Zealand, this specially built trail provides a vital link to the Otago Central Rail Trail, Roxburgh Gorge and Clutha Gold trails.

BANNOCKBURN BRIDGE TO CAIRNMUIR GULLY GRADE 2–3 (EASY-INTERMEDIATE) CAIRNMUIR GULLY TO HALFWAY HUT GRADE 2–3 (EASY-INTERMEDIATE)

BEST FOR: More experienced riders with an appreciation of wide open spaces, heritage sites as well as great food and fine wine!

CROMWELL to CLYDE 5-8 hours

41km

Between these heritage towns, discover the landscape shaped by nature and worked by gold miners and dam-builders of the last two centuries. More recently, constructed clip-on boardwalks, an 86m suspension bridge and rock walls are sure to impress.

R

iders are richly rewarded along this trail with fabulous views, food and wine.

Expansive views across to the Bannockburn vineyards, give you something to work towards, and

short detours deliver you to the historic Bannockburn Hotel, or down to Felton Rd for some topnotch wineries. Wine appetites can also be worked up by climbing out of the Brannockburn Inlet to reach Carrick Winery.

If coffee floats your boat then you are in luck! Your brew will literally meet you on Cairnmuir Gully, at Coffee Afloat parked up on the lake most days from mid-morning to mid-afternoon where you can also sink your teeth into fresh scones and burgers.

Peculiar forms and unusual lines on the land are clues to the gold mining and hydropower history around here. The terrain transfers into rocky bluffs and Cromwell Gorge includes the first of the remarkable built-in boardwalks.

Take your time here and you may even spot the pickaxe embedded in the rock wall! Pass under the amazing Cairnmuir Slide, a terraced stone face engineered to protect the river from a major landslide that could overwhelm the Clyde Dam downstream.

HALFWAY HUT TO DUNSTAN ARM ROWING CLUB GRADE 2–3 (EASY-INTERMEDIATE) DUNSTAN ARM ROWING CLUB TO CLYDE HERITAGE PRECINCT GRADE 1 (EASIEST) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Mostly reliable across the trail, with some patchy areas. Text messages usually get through.

DRINKING WATER: Food and water are readily available in Cromwell and Clyde. Riders should carry more than enough for the journey, especially in summer months as there are long stretches without supplies.

Refreshment can be found at the Bannockburn Hotel, nearby wineries, and Coffee Afloat can be found around the trail’s midway point.

TYPE OF BIKE: Mountain bikes are recommended. E-bikes are also permitted and available through most bike-hire companies. E-bikers should ensure that batteries have sufficient capacity and charge for the day’s riding and, if staying in local accommodation, check recharged capabilities.

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

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GREAT RIDE • LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL

5-8 Hours 41km

© AA Traveller 2022

MAP LEGEND open section optional route start/finish point point of interest café/restaurant toilets camping car park accommodation state highway

to the start or finish. From here the trail follows the Kawarau arm of Lake Dunstan to reach Bannockburn Bridge. Before heading onward, it’s possible to detour up to the Bannockburn Hotel or down Felton Road to some top-notch wineries.

BANNOCKBURN BRIDGE— CAIRNMUIR GULLY, 11.3KM After crossing the Bannockburn Bridge, the trail heads around to the Bannockburn Inlet. Ascending out of the inlet to Carrick Winery before continuing towards Cornish Point.

Note that the most challenging and remote part of the trail is between Cornish Point and the Dunstan Arm Rowing Club, where trail sections are narrow in places (1.5m) with steep drop-offs.

GREAT RIDE • LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL

From Cornish Point, the landscape changes dramatically to rocky bluffs as the trail heads into the Cromwell Gorge. This section includes the first of the boardwalks built into the bluffs – you may prefer to walk. This section also passes under the amazing Cairnmuir Slide, a terraced stone face engineered to protect the river from a major landslide. Soon you will be approaching Cairnmuir Gully where Coffee Afloat is parked up on the lake most days.

CAIRNMUIR GULLY—HALFWAY HUT, 8.4KM This part requires the most attention and skill as there are narrow undulating sections with steep drop-offs. Remember that the trail is two-way so expect to meet riders or walkers travelling in the opposite direction so extra care required.

Getting out of the gully requires the trail’s biggest climb – 130m vertical up the aptly named Cairnmuir Ladder. The switchbacks are designed to ensure a reasonably gentle but steady climb.

The trail’s highest point is marked by the trig point, 324m above sea level and 130m above the lake.

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Smiths Way 300m 250m

Bannockburn Inlet

Cromwell Heritage Precinct 16km

7km

Cairnmuir Gully

11.3km

Halfway Hut 8.4km

Heritage Village of Clyde 11.9km

200m

Ideal for families and less experienced riders, this 16km section of the trail traces the Lake Dunstan shore from Smiths Way to the Cromwell Heritage Precinct, making for an excellent short ride.

Riders carrying on from Clyde to Alexandra can stay on the true right of the Clutha Mata-au River and follow it downstream via the family-friendly Millennium Track for another 12km.

At Clyde, the trail links with New Zealand’s original Great Ride the Otago Central Rail Trail. The Roxburgh Gorge Trail (and in turn the Clutha Gold Trail) is also easily accessed at Alexandra, reached from Clyde via the Rail Trail or via the Millennium Track on the other side of the Clutha Mata-Au River.

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The trail then shares a 4WD track closer to lake level before reaching a section of trail that includes more boardwalk sections and a narrow trail before you reach the storyboard overlooking Halfway Hut.

HALFWAY HUT—DUNSTAN ARM ROWING CLUB, 10.7KM

0m

Extend your ride

After an exhilarating downhill, the trail reaches the Hugo Suspension Bridge, 85.5m long and 28.6m high. A steep, walkable alternative is available for those with a fear of heights.

riding the trail There’s a total of 580m climbing between Cromwell and Clyde, with most of the ascents gentle but steady. Riders should be capable of riding the full distance, and be confident biking off-road on grade 3 (intermediate) trails.

CROMWELL HERITAGE PRECINCT—BANNOCKBURN BRIDGE, 7KM The official start point is Cromwell Heritage with shuttles transferring riders and bikes

Just past the historic Halfway Hut viewpoint are a series of switchbacks with tight corners and a decent climb/descent. After is mainly plain sailing to the Dunstan Arm Rowing Club, except for some short, tricky Grade 3 riding around Jackson and Byford Creeks, and Annan Gully.

DUNSTAN ARM ROWING CLUB— CLYDE HERITAGE PRECINCT, 3.5KM The trail follows the road uphill past the Clyde Dam and turns left off the road to descend down to the Clutha Matau-Au Riverside track and Clyde Bridge. Cross over to reach the historic town of Clyde marking the southern end of the Lake Dunstan Trail and the western end of the Otago Central Rail Trail.

Highlights of the trail

Clutha River in Clyde © Adobe Stock

• Cromwell Heritage Precinct The construction of Clyde Dam involved the flooding of Cromwell’s historic centre, but a handful of buildings were saved and rebuilt as the Heritage Precinct. This now sits on the banks of Lake Dunstan, with art galleries and shops.

• Bannockburn’s world-class wineries pave the road (via slight detours) but are perfect pockets to enjoy a relaxed lunch.

• Boardwalk sections around craggy bluffs are satisfying to coast. Take your time to spot the pickaxe lodged in the rock wall.

• Refuel at Cairnmuir Gully’s Coffee Afloat, nestled into the shoreline.

Sink your teeth into one of their mouth-watering burgers and finish up with a heavenly scone before pressing on.

• The 86m-long, 29m-high Hugo Suspension Bridge is a treat to travel over, but those none too keen on heights can bypass it in exchange for a steep but walkable alternative.

• Burton Creek Recreation Area offers a pretty campground with million-dollar views of the lake and Clyde Dam. • Clyde Dam is New Zealand’s largest concrete hydro-dam.

ABOVE: Lake Dunstan © Tourism Central Otago/Will Nelson

CROMWELL > see PAGE 125

BONNIE Clyde

C

lutching to the banks of the Clutha River, the bonnie town of Clyde is home to neat stone cottages tucked away in various nooks, cloaked in summer blooms and in winter plumes of smoke billow from brick chimneys. Clyde is also home to an almighty big dam, but

your eyes are always drawn to the hills, river and old mason buildings concentrated on Sunderland St. Authentic down to their very last beam, particularly impressive are the Old Bank (now a café), Paulina’s and Olivers Restaurant.

While in CROMWELL

o the ess t ail r t acc Direc unstan T D Lake

at

Lake Dunstan is a pleasant spot for a refreshing swim and a good spot for a dip is between the old town and the bridge. Before your ride, try hiking the surrounding hilltops or paying a visit the Harvest Hotel or Stoker Room, where your food is cooked in pinot noir barrels for a barbeque-meets-smoker taste sensation.

Explore the 25ha site at the Goldfields Mining Centre and you’ll come across the Chinese migrant village, plus many shafts and tunnels revealing the region’s gold-rush history. Stories of the past are followed with demonstrations on how they dislodged gold bearing ore, concluding with the chance to try your hand at gold panning.

CLYDE > see PAGE 125

CALL 0800 BIKE NOW

(245 366)

THE GATE, CROMWELL’S HOSPITALITY & TOURIST CENTRE

25 Holloway Street, Clyde Ph: +64 3 449 2228 Email: info@bikeitnow.co.nz

or BOOK ONLINE

www.bikeitnow.co.nz 1800 446 356 AUS FREEPHONE

Harvest Hotel offers 47 recently refurbished, premium rooms.

All rooms have breathtaking Central Otago views. Unlimited free WiFi, 24 hr reception, SKY TV, air-conditioning and spacious parking. Direct access to the Lake Dunstan Trail.

The Gate Hospitality & Tourist Centre also includes Five Stags Bar & Restaurant, Forage Information Centre & Café and Super Liquor outlet.

& CONFERENCE CENTRE

Corner SH8B & Barry Ave, Cromwell P: 0800 104 451 or +64 3 445 1777 E: info@thegate.nz W: thegate.nz/hotel FREE WIFI

BIKE IT NOW! CENTRAL OTAGO

• Bike tours, itinerary planning • Half-day to multi-day hires • E-bike hire and retail specialists • Cycle retail • Clothing and accessories • Central Otago Cycle Trails Specialist

Quotes from Clients: “Great Local Business” Andy W - Wellington “Above and beyond expectations” Claudine N - Auckland

The Personal Touch because it is “all about you!”

125

GREAT RIDE • LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL

• Cromwell gorge’s lake and mountain scenery will prove to be a distraction from the path ahead due its vast beauty.

Central Otago wine

DETOUR...

HIGHLANDS MOTORSPORT PARK

GREAT RIDE • LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL

If you feel the need for more speed, you have to check out Highlands Motorsport Park in Cromwell. Absolutely packed with go-karts, muscle car experiences, a sculpture park and motorsport museum with a VR ‘Young Guns’ room.

The ‘Loo with a view’ is also worth visiting.

Central Otago’s wealth of sunlight and fertile soils give life to this incredible wine growing region.

Fresh, clear skies and unadulterated views from the vineyards make them an easy place to relax into but hard to move on from.

With a vast range of microclimates in its sub-regions, Cromwell produces vastly different styles

of wine, from pinot gris to pinot noir. From the heartland to the fringes, boutique wineries and estates produce some of the world’s leading drops. If you are short on time, Mischa’s Vineyard is a must do, offering knowledgeable tastings with fresh platters. Found directly opposite the giant fruit is The Wooing Tree, with an all-day

ŌMAKAU > see PAGE 121

grazing menu to be enjoyed as you sip at their collection of pinots.

Look out for Quartz Reef Wines, Central Otago’s premium sparkling winemaker with the oldest pinot noir vines.

In the Bannockburn area, Carrick organic winery looks out over the Carrick Mountain and Bannockburn Inlet. Domain Road produces

spectacular cool climate wines including a pinot noir rosé; Mt Difficulty i renowned for single vineyard wines and Akarua’s Tasting Shed are not to be missed. Felton Road wineries are plentiful and bountiful, offering a worthwhile detour from the cycle trail.

ABOVE: Wine in the Cromwell-Bannockburn landscape © Otago Central Tourism

QUEENSTOWN > see PAGE 135

DAY & MULTI DAY RETURN TRIPS FROM QUEENSTOWN

LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL " It will take your breath away! "

Take the stress out of organising your next bike adventure

Book your trip with us

021 98 44 77

bookings@shebikeshebikes.co.nz - +64 3 447 3271 126

www.qbikehire.co.nz info@qbikehire.co.nz

Roxburgh Gorge Trail © Will Nelson

ROXBURGH GORGE Trail

1 Day 34km

BEST FOR: An isolated one-day adventure littered with surprises.

ALEXANDRA to ROXBURGH DAM 1 day

34km

Roxburgh Gorge Trail has a somewhat Jekyll and Hyde persona. Depending on the season and the correlating flora, colours and weather, you might experience big blue skies and bonniness or a sulky ashen temperament but it won’t matter which you meet because both are enchanting.

T

ravelling from Alexandra to Roxburgh (or vice versa) this trail skirts the Clutha Mata-au River, darting between sweeping willows and during springtime, the

heady buds of fragrant thyme. In between soaring river cliffs and desert-like landscape, the route is sprinkled with remnants from the gold-rush era, including schist

huts. These small den-like shelters were built into rockfaces by miners and offer a fascinating peek into the past. Years before these dwellings existed, the pathway was also trodden by early Māori moa hunters trekking from mountains to sea in pursuit of the prize.

TRAIL GRADES: ALL GRADES 2-3 (EASY-INTERMEDIATE) ALEXANDRA TO DOCTORS POINT, 10KM SHINGLE CREEK JETTY TO ROXBURGH DAM, 11KM

The earlier sections of the Roxburgh Trail are just a taster of the fascinations to come; between Doctors Pt and Shingle Creek, the track becomes inaccessible and riders are required to fill the missing link, which is etching slowly closer to getting constructed, with a 45-minute jet-boat ride. Deep inside the gorge are some of the most visually spectacular sights of the trip, and an isolation that many will deem a rare treat these days.

NOTE: An annual maintenance contribution of $25 per person or $50 per family covers the cost of maintenance for use of the Roxburgh Gorge Trail and the adjoining Clutha Gold Trail. A 1-day pass is available for $10 per person, or a life pass for $500. It can be paid at local bike tour companies and i-SITES.

Once off the boat, the ride turns into a steady climb out of the gorge, but the impressive views of Roxburgh Hydro Dam will counter any fatigue. Soon after, Roxburgh Village comes into view, signalling the ride’s conclusion.

DRINKING WATER: Once in the gorge there are no food/water outlets. Alexandra and Roxburgh are the closest places to stock up.

TOP TIP – Unless you’re prepared to turn back at Doctors Pt, book your jet-boat ride well in advance.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Some coverage at the far ends of the trail, after which it ranges from patchy to non-existent.

TYPE OF BIKE: A mountain bike is recommended. E-bikes permitted; note boat companies impose a surcharge to carry them on board.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

127

GREAT RIDE • ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL

TRAIL INFO

riding the trail

© AA Traveller 2022

ALEXANDRA TO DOCTORS POINT, 10KM

GREAT RIDE • ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL

The trail starts at the Clutha Mata-au River near Alexandra’s Blue Bridge.

Stranded in the river alongside it are the remaining piers of the original suspension bridge, built in 1882.

Weathered relics of a bygone era, these monumental pillars are an apt gateway to the journey ahead. The trail passes through a forest of silver poplars now covering Frenchman’s Point, formerly rich gold deposit workings. It then enters the narrow Roxburgh Gorge, flanked by bluffs up to 350m high. The wide, smooth trail passes Ketts Gully with its massive stacked rock walls, sporting several old rock bivvies and huts. The trail keeps meandering gently towards Butchers Creek, an old gold-mining site. It continues winding through the gorge, climbing a zigzag to access The Narrows, an ancient rock slide where care is required to negotiate the narrower trail section and boardwalk.

Doctors Point appears all too soon.

This is the pick-up point for the 13km jet-boat trip bridging the missing link.

The 45min boat tour down river is a highly memorable way to delve deeper into the gorge’s history.

MAP LEGEND open section boat/water taxi route start/finish point bridge town café/restaurant toilets car park accommodation

SHINGLE CREEK JETTY TO ROXBURGH DAM, 11KM

Disembarking at Shingle Creek jetty, riders commence a gentle climb up to Elbow Creek, each bend offering a different view of the river below. The river slows and widens as it forms Lake Roxburgh, the waters of which drive the power station ahead. With pretty islets in the lake and broad views of the surroundings, this is a lovely but quite different stretch of trail. A series of switchbacks lead to a fitting finale, the impressive Roxburgh Hydro Dam lookout. The trail ends at Commissioner’s Flat car park, starting point of the Clutha Gold Trail that can be followed for an additional 9km or so to reach Roxburgh township.

shelter state highway

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Alexandra

Doctors Point 10km

300m

13km boat

Shingle Creek

11km

Lake Roxburgh Dam

200m 100m 0m

ROXBURGH > see PAGE 129 141 Roxburgh East Road, RD1, Roxburgh Ph: +64 3 446 8364 • Mob: +64 27 203 7061 Email: cluthagoldcottages@xtra.co.nz

www.cluthagoldcottages.co.nz

FREE WiFi

• Ideal accommodation base for the Clutha Gold & Roxburgh Gorge trails. Easy access to the cycle trails • 1 & 2 brm s/c cottages $135$150 (1-2p), large house sleeps 11 – POA, camping $17pp & motorhomes $38 per night (1-2p) • Undercover storage, bike wash, kids’ pool/play areas

WHERE THE TWO TRAILS MEET! Clutha Gold Trail & Roxburgh Gorge Trail

• Ideally located accommodation with 11 studios and suites • Garden restaurant with licensed bar (craft beers & Central Otago wines) • Breakfast, a la carte dinner, espresso coffee, packed lunches available • All inclusive 2/3/4-night cycling packages • 50+ SKY TV channels and free unlimited Wi-Fi • Low season rates and group discounts

www.lakeroxburghlodge.co.nz

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20A Tamblyn Dr, Lake Roxburgh Ph: +64 3 446 8220 Email: stay@lakeroxburghlodge.co.nz

Trail Highlights

•

•

•

Teas - Fruit, Herbal, Black, Green, Earl Grey, Rooibos & Flavoured Black Teas.

Lots of Tea Gift Ideas, Gifts & Vintage China.

111 Scotland St, Roxburgh P: +64 27 832 8328

•

•

•

•

•

•

that the trail can be bathed in verdant green, autumnal golds, steely greys or the herbaceous colours of ‘spring thyme’ (springtime thyme).

While jet boating on the river, look out for miner’s dwellings, there’s even a little schist hotel and pioneer’s pub to spy.

Enjoy some fun switchbacks that climb gently to a vantage point over Roxburgh Hydro Dam. This concrete beast powers almost 200,000 homes.

Cruise down Clutha River, or take a 12km detour from Alexandra to the bonnie town of Clyde. Many of Clyde’s surviving gold-rush buildings have been carefully restored.

Scenic Lake Roxburgh offers kayaking tours and is flush with brown and rainbow trout.

If you want more, this trail connects to three other Great Rides – the Otago Central Rail Trail, the Clutha Gold Trail and the Lake Dunstan Trail.

LEFT: Spring in Roxburgh Gorge © Will Nelson

E: katrina@teviotteastore.com www.teviotteastore.com QUEENSTOWN > see PAGE 135

CLYDE > see PAGE 125

CALL 0800 BIKE NOW

(245 366)

25 Holloway Street, Clyde Ph: +64 3 449 2228 Email: info@bikeitnow.co.nz

or BOOK ONLINE

www.bikeitnow.co.nz 1800 446 356 AUS FREEPHONE

DAY & MULTI DAY RETURN TRIPS FROM QUEENSTOWN

Take the stress out of organising your next bike adventure BIKE IT NOW! CENTRAL OTAGO

• Bike tours, itinerary planning • Half-day to multi-day hires • E-bike hire and retail specialists • Cycle retail • Clothing and accessories • Central Otago Cycle Trails Specialist

Quotes from Clients: “Roxburgh Gorge was a magical day out” Liffy Springs “Spectacular location, awesome experience” Rebecca Cohn, Brisbane

The Personal Touch because it is “all about you!”

OMAKAU > see PAGE 121

Roxburgh Gorge and Clutha Gold Discover another world on this magic journey

bookings@shebikeshebikes.co.nz - +64 3 447 3271

Book your trip with us

021 98 44 77

www.qbikehire.co.nz info@qbikehire.co.nz 129

GREAT RIDE • ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL

ROXBURGH > see PAGE 129

• Alexandra is your starting point or finish line. Nip into the small but informative museum and tell the time by the enormous clock on the hill.

• Roxburgh is between Alexandra and Milton and is famous for its orchards. Adventure can be found here on the scenic trails navigating craggy mountain ranges.

Roxburgh Gorge hosts some of the best-preserved relics of Chinese miners’ rock shelters in Otago.

Pedal past the gorge’s narrow runnels, flanked by cliff bluffs that reach 350m.

The rugged bluffs and rock forms that define this area are home to several interesting birdlife species, including kārearea, our native falcon.

Seasonal diversity means

Clutha Gold Trail © James Jubb / Tourism Central Otago

CLUTHA GOLD Trail GREAT RIDE • CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL

TRAIL INFO BEST FOR: Couples or groups with conflicting interests – this one ticks a lot of boxes.

2 Days 73km

LAKE ROXBURGH DAM to LAWRENCE 73km

2 days

T

Whether you’re adventurous, a naturelover, history-buff or science seeker, this trail keeps every cyclist smiling.

here are Māori moa hunting and gold-rush stories for the historians; great feats of engineering for the perpetually intrigued, and between the countryside and rumbling Clutha Mata-au River (hello nature-lovers),

a bounty of farming and fruit orchards to elate the foodies.

The Clutha Gold Trail officially starts at Roxburgh Dam and finishes at Lawrence. (From late March 2023 this trail will be extended by 63km

riding the trail 200m 100m 0m

130

Roxburgh Dam 9km

Roxburgh

Rich in folklore, there are a handful of information boards along the route that detail days gone by, including 19th century gold fever.

These days, ‘golden’ finds are more likely to include native kōwhai trees, with their signature yellow flowers, and Roxburgh apricots, said to be the tastiest in the world.

The track eventually ambles into Lawrence, where local hosts welcome guests inside – and pour large drops of world-class wine.

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Millers Flat

20km

to finish in Waihola making it a total of 136km.) Speed demons could complete the 73km trail in one day, but two days allows for an overnight stay somewhere seriously gorgeous.

If you’d prefer to experience just a segment of the track, the four main villages to weave between are Roxburgh, Millers Flat, Beaumont and Lawrence.

Beaumont 25km

Lawrence 19km

TRAIL GRADES: ALL GRADE 1-2 (EASIEST-EASY) COMMISSIONER FLAT (ROXBURGH DAM) TO ROXBURGH, 9KM ROXBURGH TO MILLERS FLAT, 20KM MILLERS FLAT TO BEAUMONT, 25KM BEAUMONT TO LAWRENCE, 19KM LAWRENCE TO WAIHOLA, 63KM (FROM LATE MARCH 2023) NOTE: An annual maintenance contribution of $25 per person or $50 per family can be purchased at local i-SITES or bike tour companies. A 1-day pass is $10 per person or a life pass is $500.

MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is good for most of the trail, but can get patchy away from townships and in river narrows.

DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements.

TYPE OF BIKE: A mountain bike is recommended, but a hybrid bike will suffice. E-bikes are permitted.

GRADE 1 (EASIEST) GRADE 2 (EASY)

MAP LEGEND open section start/finish point point of interest bridge tunnel town café/restaurant toilets car park accommodation

The Clutha Gold Trail begins below the Roxburgh Dam, which is New Zealand’s biggest gravity-fed dam. The trail follows the gentle bends of the blue Clutha Mata-au, with the bald peaks of the Old Man Range and Benger Ranges a dramatic backdrop. It’s not far to the atmospheric little town of Roxburgh, famous for fruit orchards that serve up a splash of colour in every season.

Roxburgh is also the home of Jimmy’s Pie Shop, another way to taste local flavours.

ROXBURGH TO MILLERS FLAT, 20KM There are new scenes around every bend as the trail meanders along the river’s edge. Pinders Pond, 5km from Roxburgh, is a pleasant place to pause for a while, and offers safe swimming in the otherwise treacherous Clutha Mataau. Towards the end of this section, the trail cuts across pastoral farmland to reach Miller’s Flat. This wee town offers visitors dining in both a café and pub, along with a handful of accommodation options.

MILLERS FLAT TO BEAUMONT, 25KM

© AA Traveller 2022

WATCH THIS SPACE A new section of the Clutha Gold Great Ride Cycle Trail is due to open later in March 2023. This will expand the length from 73km to a total of 136km. The addition will run from Lawrence to Waihola via Milton.

© AA Traveller 2022

Continuing down the valley, the trail returns to the riverside and heads through the Beaumont Gorge on a mix of quiet roads and railway line spliced together with a custom-built cycle path. It’s well worth taking a couple of short detours signposted off the trail around here. The first is Horseshoe Bend Bridge, an impressive pedestrian suspension bridge built in 1913. The second, nearby, are the Lonely Graves – humble testament to the kindness of strangers. The trail emerges at the highway, across the other side of which is the Beaumont Hotel where you can stop for refreshments.

BEAUMONT TO LAWRENCE, 19KM This leg of the trail climbs gently along the old railway line to the highest point of the trail, Big Hill Tunnel. After a 440m pedal through the dark, the trail sets off on its final sweep down to Lawrence. Lush farmland surrounds the route, which crosses the highway several times on its way through Evans Flat with its bygone vibe of early industry – gold mining, flax milling and pioneer sheep farming. This leg of the trail ends at Lawrence. On its outskirts, the trail passes an historic camp where up to 120 Chinese miners lived in the 1860s, but there is plenty more evidence of the town’s heyday. A pleasant stroll can be enjoyed through the streets of Lawrence, where country cafés wait to lure you in with hot pies and lamingtons. If you have the time and energy, venture into Gabriel’s Gully (6km return), a peaceful reserve where stories of the first gold discoveries are retold. continued on p.132

131

GREAT RIDE • CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL

state highway

COMMISSIONER FLAT (ROXBURGH DAM) TO ROXBURGH, 9KM

continued from p.131

Nugget Point © Destination Clutha BELOW: Apricots © Central Otago Tourism

LAWRENCE TO WAIHOLA, 63KM EXTENSION (OPENS MARCH 2023) This is an extension of the trail and at the time of print it was due to officially open in March 2023. This leg passes through the townships of Waitahuna and Milton. Some features include the Waitahuna Railway Station and Goods Shed, the scenic Mt Stuart Reserve, two tunnels of 200m and 400m in length respectively, 1.5km of boardwalk with approximately half over wetland and half over water.

EXPAND YOUR RIDE

GREAT RIDE • CLUTHA GOLD TRAIL

This trail connects to three other Great Rides – the Otago Central Rail Trail, the Roxburgh Gorge Trail and the Lake Dunstan Trail.

Explore more

Highlights of the trail • Soak up the rick heritage in the lovely town of Lawrence where one of the world’s largest gold rushes took place. Take a spin on the mighty Clutha River in a jet boat or take a self-guided walking tour through Gabriel Gully.

• Stone fruit worth writing home about. Drop into the many orchards and tuck in.

• New Zealand’s endangered native falcon, the karearea calls Otago home but there are only approximately 3000 nesting pairs remaining. They are also one of the world’s fastest birds, so you’ll need a sharp eye.

• Roxburgh dam is a big, commanding presence on the river. Whether you find dams an eyesore or a marvel, there’s no missing this behemoth.

• Pinders Pond is a scenic reservoir, perfect for a picnic or quick dip. It might look serene now, but the pond was originally hand dug by a goldmining giant using an hydraulic elevator to uncover gold.

• Cycle across Horseshoe Bend Bridge. Built in 1913, the 70m-long timber bridge is one of the few reminders that Horseshoe Bend was once a booming gold-mining community.

• Bite into one of Roxburgh’s plump apricots or sweet juicy cherries.

Cherries are ripe at Christmas until January and apricots in January.

• Evans Flat is an interesting stretch of land, if only for its two former dwellers, George and Helen Munro. The couple arrived here from Scotland in 1857. Upon hearing about Gabriel Read’s momentous 1861 gold find, Helen set about finding her own, with nothing but a dish and butcher’s knife. She came up trumps – unearthing 18 ounces of pure gold just nine metres from their hut. It’s now called Munro’s Gully.

• Big Hill Tunnel is the only tunnel on your journey but at 440m, it's a jolly large one.

CLYDE > see PAGE 125

CALL 0800 BIKE NOW

(245 366)

From Lawrence, join the Southern Scenic Route – a ‘road less travelled’, where deserted beaches, rainforest, pristine lakes and mountains all feature.

The Clutha River runs through the town of Balclutha. Further south is the wild Catlins, with sweeping beaches and spectacular cliffs.

A ‘must-stop’ is Curio Bay where, at low tide, a petrified forest is exposed on a rock shelf. Curio Bay’s Tumu Toka CurioScape is a worldclass interactive heritage centre and also well worth a visit.

walk through beech forest to the magnificent three-tier Purakaunui Falls.

Invercargill is a city with a strong Scottish heritage. It’s also home to the country’s largest collection of tuatara. Bluff, 25 minutes south of here, is famed for its Bluff oyster and where the one-hour ferry departs to Stewart Island Rakiura. From Bluff, the route also heads towards Te Anau and onto Queenstown, where it concludes.

Nugget Pt, with its picturesque lighthouse, is where you’ll find seals, sea lions and a gannet colony. Stop at Porpoise Bay – rare Hector’s dolphins often swim close to the beach. Just north of Papatōwai, LAWRENCE > see PAGE132

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132

From the trail’s end at Lawrence, it’s a 30-minute drive to join SH 1 and the Southern Scenic Route – an exciting, wild road trip from the coast to Queenstown.

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THE QUEENSTOWN Trail

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

TRAIL INFO

1-4 Days 130km Edgar Bridge, Queenstown Trail © Destination Queenstown

BEST FOR: A trail that is as much about the sights as it is the cycling.

QUEENSTOWN to QUEENSTOWN 1-4 days

130km

Queenstown’s best hop-on, hop-off experience – by bike! Ridden as a multi-day adventure with overnight stops along the way, or by tailored day rides.

Biking in Arrowtown © Destination Queenstown

Cycling at Lake Hayes © Jim Pollard Goes Click

M

ost of the Queenstown Trail is ideal for beginners, families or those who haven’t seen a bike in a while. The trail hugs the Wakatipu lakeshore through to Frankton, passing shorefront hotels such as the Hilton (stopping for a chilled drink at its open-fire Pinot Pit is idyllic), golf courses, dazzling mountain views and blooming gardens.

For those after something more challenging, the Jack’s Point section is an enjoyable add-on but not for the faint-hearted. Comprised of some steep climbs, fast descents and tight bends, dropping back down to Lake Wakatipu is the only way to regulate your heartbeat.

Your journey could stretch as far as Gibbston and historic Arrowtown, during a section that includes the 80m Edgar Suspension Bridge, jet boats frothing up the Kawarau River and deep canyons filled with turquoise water. Stop at the famous Kawarau Suspension Bridge: the world’s first commercial bungy jump.

Once in the Gibbston region, the heart of pinot noir country, make a beeline for its world-class wineries. Shuttle services are available to transport you home – or simply jump on the bus.

TRAIL GRADES: FRANKTON TRACK & KELVIN PENINSULA TRAIL, 15KM GRADE 2 (EASY) JACK’S POINT TRAIL, 12KM GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) LAKE HAYES TRAIL, 8KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) ARROW RIVER BRIDGES TRAIL, 16KM GRADE 2 (EASY) GIBBSTON RIVER TRAIL, 9KM GRADE 2 (EASY) TWIN RIVERS TRAIL, 18.5KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) COUNTRYSIDE TRAIL 13.5KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is good across the whole trail network.

DRINKING WATER: Don’t forget your water bottle. Most local businesses will be happy for you to refill your drink bottle along the way. Plus you can buy food and beverages along the trail.

TYPE OF BIKE: A mountain bike is recommended. E-bikes are also permitted.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

133

© AA Traveller 2022

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

MAP LEGEND open section connector trails start/finish point point of interest

riding the trail Queenstown

13km

Old Lower Shotover Bridge 12.5km

i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant car park

toilets accommodation camping state highway

queenstowntrail.org.nz and nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Details...

Arrowtown

Kawarau Bridge

13.5km

15.5km

Old Lower Queenstown Shotover Bridge 15.5km

Kawarau Bridge

Gibbston

6.5km

600m 400m 200m 0m

FRANKTON TRACK & KELVIN PENINSULA TRAIL, 15KM The perfect ride for novices, families or those of questionable fitness, this ride offers varying viewpoints around Lake Wakatipu, with a dramatic back-drop of the Remarkables and surrounding ranges. Starting at Queenstown’s colourful municipal gardens, it also offers plenty of places to stop for rest and refreshments. The trail hugs the lakeshore through to Frankton where it passes the marina and crosses the picturesque Kawarau Falls bridge. Just across the bridge, the Hilton Hotel is a good place to turn back for the return ride, or riders can continue skirting the shore all the way to Queenstown Golf Club from where the additional Kelvin Peninsula Loop offers even more views as well as notable trail-side sculptures.

The welcoming golf club café is a lovely place to wait for a shuttle pick-up.

7-Mile MTB © Destination Queenstown

134

JACK’S POINT TRAIL, 12KM Eager riders can add this on to the Kelvin Peninsula Trail, or start it from nearby Jardine Park where there’s ample car parking and a neat loop track for the kids to practice on. This ride is not for the faint-hearted, with some steep climbs, fast descents, and tight bends. Older children with a head for heights should have no trouble completing it. The trail traces an undulating route through the tussock and schist of Lake Wakatipu’s eastern edge, with spectacular views across to iconic Walter and Cecil Peaks.

The final climb up and over Jack’s Point Golf Course delivers riders to the door of its super-stylish restaurant and bar – perfectly positioned for a well-earned long lunch before catching a ride back to town or returning via the same route.

LAKE HAYES TRAIL, 8KM No visit to Queenstown is complete without seeing New Zealand’s mostphotographed lake with its kaleidoscopic colours and exquisite mountain vistas, lying in the heart of the Wakatipu Basin and easily accessible from Queenstown, Arrowtown and Gibbston. A lovely jaunt in itself, this short loop can also be added into longer adventures including the Arrow River Bridges or Gibbston River trails. It’s also just a short ride away from Amisfield Winery & Bistro, offering the chance to factor even more local flavour into this quintessential Queenstown experience.

ARROW RIVER BRIDGES TRAIL, 16KM Gold rush-era Arrowtown is the starting point for this delightful ride taking in an interesting mix of bridges – with the purpose-built, 80m-long Edgar Suspension Bridge a highlight – as well as country lanes and old byways. It ends at the gateway wine-soaked Gibbston and the start of the Gibbston River Trail.

The views are ever-changing as the trail meanders along the Arrow River – tumbling in some places, tranquil in others, and eventually spilling out into the Kawarau Gorge. This leisurely journey ends at the historic Kawarau Bridge, the world’s original bungy jump site where brave souls can swap their helmet for a harness and go for glory. A calming glass of wine can be enjoyed at the wineries nearby.

GIBBSTON RIVER TRAIL, 9KM This easy meander is a great way to visit the wineries lining the ‘Valley of the Vines’ while soaking up its famously spectacular scenery. Fit riders should consider combining it with the Arrow River Bridges Trail or another Queenstown Trail for a big day out, while Gibbston-based bike hire and good shuttle connections make it easy to tailor tours to suit everyone – or just jump on a bus home if you run out of puff. The trail stretches for 9km between AJ Hackett Bungy at Kawarau Bridge, through to the Kinross Cottages tasting

room. In between are iconic Central Otago wineries such as Peregrine and Gibbston Valley, the latter perennially popular for its cellar door restaurant and wine-cave tours (with a bike hire depot, too). The Gibbston Tavern is also a highlight with its rustic vibe and beer garden.

TWIN RIVERS TRAIL, 18.5KM This Intermediate trail starts from Kawarau Falls Bridge and takes you to Morven Ferry Rd via Lake Hayes Estate.

This trail will show you Queenstown like you’ve never experienced before. Off the beaten track you’ll discover the remote and rugged landscapes, glorious vistas down the aquamarine Kawarau River and some of the best picnic and fishing spots on the trail.

COUNTRYSIDE RIDE, 13.5KM This ride starts at the Arrowtown River car park and takes you to the Shotover Bridge where you can turn around and head back to Arrowtown. You’ll enjoy quiet country lanes and trails that will reveal breathtaking homes, gardens and architecture, tree-lined avenues, historic galleries and rustic cafés. Here, the magnificent colours of the South Island come to life. Reward yourself with a stop in at fabulous Millbrook Resort which offers a super café, restaurant, bars, pro-shop and golf courses and of course the Day Spa, not to mention fabulous accommodation.

TOP: Crown Peak Ridge BOTTOM: Arrowtown Golf Course BOTH: © Destination Queenstown

Highlights of the trail • Queenstown has something to satisfy all. With a year-round playground created entirely by nature, discover enjoyment that stretches as far as the ski field and as close as your dinner plate.

• Once a traffic bridge, Lower Shotover Bridge now provides cyclists with 360-degree vistas of the Shotover River.

• Climbing Thompson’s Hill will burn, but the payoff is spectacular views downriver.

• Off the saddle, climb to the top of Bob’s Peak on a one-hour hike, or take the Skyline Gondola. The views are stunning, and Queenstown’s go kart-style luge will be there, begging you to take a ride.

• Thrillseekers are spoilt for choice. From Nevis Bungy jump from a 134m cable car to the 150km/hr canyon swing. Shotover Jets race you through the canyon or you can take it easy by paddling yourself on ‘Funyak’ down the Dart River.

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

• Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge debuted in 1880 but it wasn’t until 1988 that Bungy pioneers AJ Hackett and Henry van Asch created the world’s first commercially operated bungy jumping site here. Stop and watch the jumpers before cycling over it.

• Lake Wakatipu and Coronet Cecil and Walter Peaks are all standout landmarks.

• Queenstown & Central Otago Wine – you’re in the very thick of wine country so make sure you combine your ride with vineyard stops.

• You’ll need a good head for heights to cross Edgar Suspension Bridge. At 80m long and with the Arrow Gorge roaring below, the views are stunning, if a little scary.

• Gibbston Valley Winery is the place to get to grips with the region’s wine. Pop in for tastings and lunch at the Lodge restaurant, or pick up a treat from the on-site cheesery and deli.

• Listen for the growl of encroaching jet boats as they carve up Kawarau River.

QUEENSTOWN > see PAGE 135

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DON’T MISS…

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

Wānaka: Exceptional lake views are a standout on the four-hour return hike to Roys Peak; ’That Wānaka Tree’ is as Insta famous as a Kardashian, and this is one of only a few places in New Zealand to host a year-round market, on every Thursday. If you’re a daredevil, Skydive Wānaka will put Aoraki

Misha’s Vineyard, Bendigo © Central Otago Tourism

Mt Cook in your peripheral, and Wild Wire Wānaka has the highest waterfall cable climb in the world.

the world is made, pinot noir being responsible for most of the buzz.

Gibbston District: Part of the

Cromwell: Wander around

café. Marvel at Clyde Dam from lofty viewpoints or walk the 11.5km Millennium Track to Alexandra,

the original mason buildings in Cromwell’s Heritage Precinct and nip into a handful of boutique stores and coffee shops. Descend on Lake Dunstan for sailing, swimming and fishing. In winter, there are five ski fields and in summer, the roads are lined with fresh fruit stalls.

this town’s gold-mining history at the Central Stories Museum. Come summer, local apricots, peaches, cherries and apples fill the orchards and when the winter brings sub-zero temperatures, Manorburn Dam transforms into an ice rink.

Queenstown and Central Otago wine region, enjoy a setting of snow-capped mountains, deep river gorges and beautiful valleys. It’s also where some of the best wine in

HOME OF QUEENSTOWN’S FAMOUS LUNCHES – FROM $10!

Alexandra: Discover more about

Arrowtown: Dressed to impress in deciduous trees and historic buildings, Arrowtown maintains its handsome features from a bygone era. Top biking trails in and around the Wakatipu Basin link Arrowtown to neighbouring towns, and there are a handful of scenic walks.

Clyde: With a perfectly preserved old town, Clyde enjoys an historic centre surrounded by neat farmland.

Dine inside the original stone walls of gold miners’ buildings including the old bank which is now a delightful

LAKE HAYES Nicknamed the ‘Mirror Lake’, the glassy waters of Lake Hayes is just a four-minute drive from Arrowtown. The water reflects its snow-capped mountain surrounds in astonishing clarity – it’ll have you taking snap after snap.

Your perfect getaway in the HEART of QUEENSTOWN

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136

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EXPLORE MORE IN ARROWTOWN

SLEEPY STREETS Buckingham St is lined by trees and pretty heritage buildings built from stone. Inside you’ll find boutique gift shops, cafés and surprising art nooks.

Alex River Track © Tourism Central Otago

ARROWTOWN > see PAGE 137

Dramatic river and mountain scenery with trails suitable year-round for all fitness levels.

New Zealand’s hidden treasure just 20 minutes from Queenstown Airport, Arrowtown is the perfect hub to explore by bike.

ARROWTOWN’S VINTAGE CINEMA Dorothy Browns is Arrowtown’s retro-inspired cinema and a delightful hangout. Enjoy art house movies while sipping wine.

There’s a terrific atmosphere and the film reel is always projecting something wonderful.

GOLD PANNING Hire a gold pan from the Lakes District Museum in Arrowtown and try your luck panning for riches in the river. Lessons are conducted at Dudley Cottage.

Afterward, explore the museum’s fantastic displays that detail the 1860s gold rush. Kids particularly like the ‘spot the odd one out’ game, where modern items are hidden amidst the 19th century artefacts.

FINE WINE Lock lips with over 80 award-winning wines and whiskies at

The Winery. Try a drop of something special from boutique wineries that don’t always have their own cellar doors.

SKI FIELDS In Arrowtown, you’re on the doorstep to four superb ski areas – Cardrona, Coronet Peak, The Remarkables and Treble Cone.

Come winter, the pistes are some of New Zealand’s finest.

OLD-FASHIONED SWEETS Load up on nostalgic lollies at the Remarkables Sweet Shop. You won’t be able to resist the shelves packed with fudge and gobstoppers. Pop in for a sample and come out with a year’s supply of lemon sherbet!

GORGEOUS WALKS Discover at least four shore-fronting rope swings on the Arrowtown Anniversary Walk.

The Sawpit Gully Trail is a two to three-hour loop track that starts near the Chinese Settlement and follows the Arrow River Trail before turning onto the Sawpit Gully path.

Spacious and modern 1, 2 & 3-brm apartments 1min drive/10min walk from the Arrowtown CBD. Fully equipped kitchens, SKY TV, FREE WiFi, underfloor heating, laundry & single garages. On-site heated indoor pool, tennis court, gym & BBQs. Perfect base & central to the areas golf courses, wineries, bike trails & skifields.

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ES:TZ4 137

GREAT RIDE • THE QUEENSTOWN TRAIL

As one of New Zealand’s most pleasantly old-fashioned townships, Arrowtown is deliciously quaint. Steeped in history, this preserved gold-rush settlement is tonic for the soul.

AROUND THE MOUNTAINS

Around The Mountains Cycle Trail © Great South BELOW: Lake Wakatipu © DWB

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

Cycle Trail

TRAIL INFO 3-5 Days 186km

BEST FOR: Exploring through Southland’s rural heartland.

WALTER PEAK to KINGSTON 3-5 days

186km

Tracing the gentle curves of Lake Wakatipu and under the careful watch of Eyre Mountains, this easy, family-friendly ride follows well-graded paths over the course of three to five adventurous days.

TOP TIP – Watch the setting sun as it flickers across the mountain tops, casting a glow of golden ripples. Māori named the area Taka Ra Haka in reference to this dancing sunlight.

138

L

inking Queenstown’s Walter Peak Station to Kingston, the trail can be done in either direction, but starting from the foot of Walter Peak allows riders to first enjoy a scenic Lake Wakatipu crossing aboard the historic TSS Earnslaw steamship. Once on shore, the trail briefly skirts the lakefront before delving into a remote landscape. Grand vistas saturate every view point, and the isolation will have you believe that no one else has ever step foot here.

Nearby Mavora Lakes offer a serene campsite setting and camp fires are permitted in fire drums that the campground provides.

Cyclists are encouraged to attack this trail at their own pace, with itineraries customised to suit every member of your clan. With numerous highcountry townships speckling the route, there is every opportunity to stop at cosy, comfortable lodges – you’ll never have been more pleased to see a fluffy white towel.

Local shops showcasing regional craftmanship, southern hospitality and unique cafés are highlights of the route.

Once in Kingston, Lake Wakatipu comes back into view, signalling the conclusion of your ride. Jump on a scenic shuttle back to Queenstown and complete your voyage with hot food and drinks at one of the town’s inviting taverns.

TRAIL GRADES: WALTER PEAK STATION TO MAVORA LAKES GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) NOTE: GRAVEL ROAD MAVORA LAKES TO CENTRE HILL SHELTER GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) NOTE: GRAVEL ROAD CENTRE HILL SHELTER TO MOSSBURN GRADE 2 (EASY) MOSSBURN TO LUMSDEN GRADE 2 (EASY) LUMSDEN TO ATHOL GRADE 2 (EASY) ATHOL TO KINGSTON GRADE 2 (EASY) MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Reliable around Queenstown and the trail’s southern towns.

Virtually non-existent between Mt Nicholas Station and Centre Hill Shelter.

DRINKING WATER: Bottles can be filled at various settlements.

Water supply at shelters in the Von Valley and at Mavora Lakes DOC campsite; boiling or treating is recommended.

SAFETY INFO: There are two river crossings between Walter Peak and Mavora Lakes, please check weather conditions before riding.

TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is recommended; e-bikes are also permitted.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)

MAP LEGEND

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

open section TSS Earnslaw Steamship Barge Services NZ Gravel road section start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant shelter toilets ford camping accommodation state highway

© AA Traveller 2022

riding the trail 800m 600m

Walter Peak

50km

400m

Mavora Lakes 29km

Centre Hill Shelter 24km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Mossburn 20km

Lumsden

33km

Athol

30km

Kingston

shuttle / road section

200m 0m

WALTER PEAK STATION TO MAVORA LAKES, 50KM

The scenery on this initial leg will possibly knock your socks off. It begins with the scenic cruise across Lake Wakatipu with stunning views of the mountaintops as you approach Walter Peak. Here you can explore the historic homestead, enjoy the café and even watch a live shearing demonstration.

As it traces the lakeshore towards Mt Nicholas Station, the trail reveals postcard views across to the Richardson Mountains and beyond towards Mt Aspiring National Park.

Riding on a gravel road surrounded by golden grasslands and tussocky mountain tops, it’s a short but fairly grunty climb up Von Hill. It’s then pretty much downhill all the way to the magical Mavora Lakes.

MAVORA LAKES TO MOSSBURN, 53KM

The Mavora Lakes are a sight to behold, surrounded by forest and nestled between the Livingstone and Thomson mountains. Bike-packers can immerse themselves for longer in this magical environment made famous by The Lord of The Rings trilogy by pitching up overnight at the DOC campsite.

From Mavora, the trail continues along the gravel road to Centre Hill Shelter (29km), from where the trail joins the purpose-built off-road trail. The gravel section can get dusty in the summer months; you may prefer to organise a shuttle through to Mossburn.

Self-proclaimed deer capital of New Zealand but surrounded by cows, Mossburn enjoys a splendid setting in mountain surrounds and is a good

place to stop overnight.

MOSSBURN TO LUMSDEN, 20KM The ride through northern Southland to the town of Lumsden is quite the contrast to the previous day, rolling farmland taking the place of tussock-clad high country. This section traverses a mix of old railway line and well-graded track, threaded between the highway and farmland.

LUMSDEN TO ATHOL, 33KM This section serves up more charming rural countryside. Continuing along the old railway line, it also traces the edge of the Ōreti River, well known for fly fishing. Five Rivers is a good place to rest and rehydrate. Riders will continue on the well-manicured track to Athol where you can enjoy some time with southern folk.

ATHOL TO KINGSTON, 30KM Athol is a tiny rural town situated on a small plain surrounded by mountains including Mid Dome (1478m) to the south and Flagstaff (1037m) to the east. As you leave Athol look out for the wooden suspension bridges that locals have nicknamed the Golden Gate Bridges. Garston, known as New Zealand’s most inland town, is a good place to stop for refreshments. From there, the final leg of the ride takes you past historic Fairlight Station, where the Kingston Flyer train stops on charter trips. From here the trail follows the glacial moraine heading gradually downhill, finishing in Kingston on the shores of Lake Wakatipu where you can watch the sun hit the mountain tops and reflect on this journey through a special slice of New Zealand.

139

PLACES FOR A GOOD MUNCH

Around the Mountains Trail © www.southlandnz.com Cycling, Lumsden • RIGHT: Mavora Lakes BOTH © Chris McLennan

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

• Lumsden is a tiny town with world-class beef pies. They sell out as fast as they are made at Bafe-Bakery – and if you can leave without buying a fresh cream doughnut, you’ll be the first.

• Route 6 Café and Bar (also located in Lumsden) is pretty ordinary from the outset but step inside and you’ll find a retro American diner, complete with 1955 Dodge Kingsman car.

• In wee Garston, gobble up a hot bomb (sandwich) from retro caravan-cum-café, The Coffee Bomb. It’s a bit of a secret but we’re spilling the beans.

Highlights of the trail • Glacier carved Mavora Lakes are pretty as a picture and perfect for a picnic. The $8 per night campsite provides barbecues and steel drums for cosy camp fires under starlit skies.

• In Kingston, visit the lovingly restored Kingston Flyer steam train that runs sporadic public

trips after a bite to eat at the café by the water’s edge.

• Lumsden is revered for its farm-stays and fishing. Keen anglers flock here to try their luck at catching brown trout, which the local Oreti River is teeming with. No catch? Oyster & Chips takeaway in town will see you right.

• Between Athol and Kingston on the trail’s last leg, is Garston, New Zealand’s most inland town. A 10km detour along the Welcome Rock Trail leads to Mud Hut, a rough and ready trampers’ shack complete with rustic outdoor bath – and nothing but tussock views.

• Bracken Hall café is in Mossburn, and to quote a TripAdvisor review, ‘This place needs to be a UNESCO World Heritage site based on today’s venison pie!’

Milford Sound

Queenstown

www.fiordland.org.nz

Perenuka Park

Lake 2 Lake Trail

Te Anau

Welcome Rock Trails

Around The Mountains Cycle Trail

Lumsden

Borland Road

Hokonui Loop Track

Tuatapere

Bluff Hill

RIDE A WORLD-CLASS TRACK, EXPLORE BREATHTAKING TRAILS, OR EXPERIENCE EPIC MOUNTAIN BIKING

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Hokonui Water Race Trail

Gore

Bald Hill

Sandy Point

The cycling country we all dream of...

Dunedin

SIT Velodrome

Invercargill

The Catlins

Stewart Island

www.southlandnz.com

a thrilling adventure through pristine waterways to a breathtaking scenic backdrop.

SHOTOVER CANYON SWING Experience the world’s highest cliff jump with 60m of freefall.

SKI FIELDS Come wintertime, when the powder hits the peaks, you’ll be able to carve up the slopes of Treble Cone, The Remarkables, Coronet Peak and Cardrona with the other snow enthusiasts.

QUEENSTOWN MTB PARK Hop on the Skyline Gondola up to the peak, ready to ride one of the 30 world-class criss-crossing downhill runs, covering 450m of vertical descents above Queenstown. The number of downhill runs is mind-boggling giving you the opportunity to cruise and soak up the scenery or test your mettle… and your brakes!

SKYLINE LUGE This epic luge track will have you shrieking with laughter as you race your friends through bends and corners then hurrying back to the start for more.

KIWI PARK Sitting at the bottom of Queenstown’s Skyline gondola in the heart of town, meet parakeets, kea and weka and observe kiwi feeding at the Kiwi Encounter show.

RIVERBOARDING Ride grade 2 to 3 rapids on a specially built sledge for

o

‘Bike It’ list r ! u GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

JET BOAT Skid across Lake Wakatipu at hair-raising speeds then blast down the Kawarau and Shotover rivers.

Put it o ny

TOP QUEENSTOWN ACTIVITIES

HOT POOLS Sit in your own springfed, private Onsen hot pool, set in front of sweeping alpine views. The retractable roof is perfect for star gazing after dark.

FUNYAK Kayak down Dart River, exploring the dramatic landscape of Mt Aspiring National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage area.

QUEENSTOWN PARAFLIGHTS Set off by boat then lift off with legs dangling and views of Lake Wakatipu.

HORSE RIDING Trot through untouched backcountry with non-stop spectacular landscape backdrops.

aroundthemountains.co.nz

TSS EARNSLAW Enjoy a cruise upon this traditional steamship that has been gracing the lake and waters since 1912.

QUEENSTOWN > see PAGE 141

SHUTTLES - BIKING PACKAGES - BIKE HIRE

Biking Adventures Made Easy

TE ANAU > see PAGE 142

BIKE FIORDLAND Everything Bike

Multi Day tours - Day Trips - Bike Hire - Retail Shop - Servicing

Life’s an adventure, so grab it by the wheels!

Explore the Around The Mountains Great Ride and Te Anau’s Lake 2 Lake Cycle Trail.

We can organise bespoke tours including accommodation and tour planning plus day trips and transportation. Bike servicing and full retail store right in the heart of Te Anau.

We are your Southland Bike Specialists

Book your trip with us

027 241 0858 www.atmtrail.co.nz info@atmtrail.co.nz

Come and see us or check out our website and speak with one of our experts today! www.bikefiordland.nz Call us: 0800 9600 96 | 68 Town Centre, Te Anau Formerly known as Wild Rides Fiordland 141

Boat plane on the lake, Te Anau © Adobe Stock

Railway Hotel, Invercargill, Southland © Venture Southland Tourism

GREAT RIDE • AROUND THE MOUNTAINS CYCLE TRAIL

Time in Te Anau

P

erched on the shores of Lake Te Anau, the eponymous town is quite the treasure trove of geological phenomena. From a limestone grotto of glowworms and an underground waterfall in the local caves to its beautiful glacial lake – the largest in the South Island. With the main body of the lake running north to south and three arms stretching out from the western side – North Fiord, Middle Fiord and South Fiord

– its commanding presence is enhanced by the majestic mountains and forest set to the west, and the sweeping countryside to the east. Among the many things to do here, a cruise on the lake is essential.

Te Anau is basecamp for all Fiordland adventures. Wellknown as the walking capital of the world, the Milford, Hollyford, Routeburn, Greenstone, Caples, Kepler and Dusky tracks are all nearby.

iFi

FR

LUMSDEN MOTEL

With its proximity and easy access to the spectacular Fiordland National Park, the Lake 2 Lake Cycle Trail runs from Lake Te Anau towards Lake Manapōuri, winding through bird-filled woodland, native beech forest and traces the course of the mighty Waiau River. Some say it’s New Zealand’s most picturesque ride.

The trail is 28.5km and graded 2 (Easy) so it’s suitable for the entire family, although there are a number of hills and a handful of hairpin bends to negotiate. It’s easy to hire bikes in Te Anau, with electric bikes also available. With incredible views, the Lake 2 Lake trail offers a unique experience to take in the natural beauty of Fiordland.

MOSSBURN

regarded spot for catching brown trout.

A small town in Southland, 59km east of Te Anau and 113km south of Queenstown, Mossburn is New Zealand’s deer capital and the home of its first deer farm.

Early colonial history has a strong place here with a number of the quaint B&Bs providing stays in authentic heritage quarters. Fertile waters are ideal for fishing with the nearby Ōreti River a highly

LUMSDEN

Once a major rail junction with departing lines from each point on the compass, Lumsden honours this important part of its history as the local station building remains a major landmark to explore, along with heritage buildings populating the main streets and the classic Kiwiana filled cafés.

MOSSBURN > see PAGE 142

LUMSDEN > see PAGE 142

W EE

Lake 2 Lake Cycle Trail

QUIET, COMFY, CENTRAL

Café

• 5 self-contained ensuite units sleep 1-5 • Laundry & dryer available • Guest BBQ and outdoor socialising area • Sherpa Shuttle service for ATMCT available on request • Playground and shops across the road • Tariff: $130-$180 (1-5 persons). Extra adults $20 each, children $15

& GIFT SHOP Breakfasts, lunches, coffee, venison pies, real-fruit ice creams, takeaway lunches Free WiFi available Phone: +64 3 248 6033 Email: brackenhall@xtra.co.nz Open: 8.30am to 5.30pm www.brackenhall.co.nz

7 Hero St, Lumsden, Southland Ph: + 64 3 248 7418 Email: lumsdenmotel@gmail.com www.lumsdenmotel.co.nz

Main Street, Mossburn Date:

16 May 2019

Job Details: Logo Design

TE ANAU > see PAGE 142

Please Check Proof Carefully Spelling Colours Sizes

Customer: Aden Motel

Option 1

While every care has been taken with this proof, no responsibility will be accepted for mistakes found after this proof has been approved.

Copyright This proof shall not be reproduced without written permission from Creation Signs.

Designer: Kelly File Location: Z:\Creation Production\A to Z\R\Red Tussock Motel\Aden Motel logo

Approved By ______________

Aden Motel TE ANAU, NZ

88 Bill Richardson Dr PO Box 313 Invercargill. www.creationsigns.co.nz Phone 03 211 0301

Date ______________ Approval Signature ______________

• • • • •

NZSDA NZ SIGN & DISPLAY ASSOCIATION (Inc.)

•

Bar & Bistro • Formal private dining room • Gold Card Discounts 1-brm apartment, ensuite rooms + double/twin rooms with shared amenities Specialists in discounted group bookings • Secure bike storage.

6 Diana Street, Lumsden • P: +64 3 248 7817 • RES: 0800 LUMSTOPIA E: admin@thelumsdenhotel.com • www.thelumsdenhotel.co.nz

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• • •

Relax in a homely, Kiwiana -style motel Pet -friendly upon request Full cooking facilities Quiet location, studio, 1, 2 & 3‑brm units Tour bookings arranged, local knowledge is best 10min stroll to town centre, 100m to lakefront Environmentally friendly FREE WiFi • Cycle storage Playground & BBQ area

57‑59 Quintin Dr, Te Anau • Ph: +64 3 249 7748 • Email: info@adenmotel.co.nz www.adenmotel.co.nz • Reservations: 0800 11 66 44 • Hosts: Irene Benfell & David Herron

Check www.adenmotel.co.nz for current best rates & to book

Five Rivers, Around the Mountains Cycle Trail © Tourism NZ

MOSSBURN to BLUFF

SOUTHLAND Traverse

2-3 days

137km Signpost, Southland Traverse

HEARTLAND RIDE • SOUTHLAND TRAVERSE

BEST FOR: Getting from Mossburn to Bluff without using the busier highway.

TRAIL INFO 2-3 Days 137km

TRAIL GRADE: 39% GRADE 2 53% GRADE 3 8% GRADE 4 MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Available throughout the route.

FOOD, ACCOMMODATION & TOILETS: Available at either of the starting points, Mossburn/ Lumsden, and then Camp Taringatura (40km), Winton (67km), Wallacetown (90km), Invercargill (104km), and Bluff (137km).

NEED TO KNOW: The route is 95% sealed road, and 5% gravel road or gravel path.

Take the scenic route all the way to Bluff by negotiating the pleasant, reasonably quiet highways of the Southland Traverse.

Good-looking vistas come thick and fast on this two-day ride.

C

onnecting Mossburn (or Lumsden) to Bluff over 137km and two days, this Grade 2-4 bike ride slices through the South Island’s lower region, one that’s freckled with cyclists and sightseers soaking up the beauty.

This Heartland Ride is also part of the 3000km Tour Aotearoa trail which travels all the way from Cape Rēinga at the top of the North Island to Bluff at the bottom of the South Island.

You may meet a fair few weatherworn cyclists along this route who have just done over 2000km. Cyclists

should also be aware that the track often traces or criss-crosses parts of the Southern Scenic Route, a popular tourist highway that’s used by buses and couch tour companies.

It is still a fantastic alternative to busier highways and primarily uses scenic back roads. In total, the track utilises 95 percent sealed road and 5 percent gravel road or gravel path.

In between drinking up the pastoral scenery and bucolic views, stop in charming small towns such as Winton and Wallacetown for provisions and a rest.

This route is part of the 3000km Cape Rēinga to Bluff route called Tour Aotearoa. You are likely to meet weather-beaten tour riders on their final day of riding the length of the country.

In winter the weather can be bitterly cold in Southland, so expect the unexpected.

The route is signposted with Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails’ signs.

The newly opened section of the trail between Invercargill and Bluff is named Te Ara Taurapa.

TYPE OF BIKE: A touring bike, mountain bike or e-bike is suitable for the terrain.

GRADE 2 (EASY) GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)

143

riding the trail 300m 250m 200m 150m

Mossburn

Castlerock

13km

22km

nzcycletrail.com for more Trail Detail...

Dipton West

Winton 33km

Wallacetown 18km

14km

Invercargill

Bluff 33km

100m 50m 0m

This route can be started from either Mossburn or Lumsden. From Mossburn, head east on the trail, which runs beside SH 94. After 13km, turn right off the cycle trail,

HEARTLAND RIDE • SOUTHLAND TRAVERSE

MAP LEGEND open section on road section start/finish point point of interest i-SITE Visitor Centre town café/restaurant toilets camping accommodation state highway

© AA Traveller 2022

144

cross the highway and ride south on Dipton Castlerock Rd. Follow the Ngā Haerenga New Zealand Cycle Trails’ signs south, turning right at West Dipton down George St, then

left onto South Hillend Dipton Rd. When you are 54km from Mossburn, turn right onto Hundred Line Rd and shortly after, left onto Riverside Rd. When you reach SH 96, turn left

and cross the Oreti River, then turn right on to Winton Substation Rd. A few minutes later, turn left onto Gerrard Rd and ride into the centre of Winton, where there are dozens of shops. From Winton, ride back out of town on Meldrum St, and after 600m, turn left onto the Winton Walkway to follow a gravel path around the edge of town. Then follow Price Rd, Substation Rd, Calder Rd, Nelson Rd, Lochiel Branxholme Rd, Young Rd and Ryal Bush Wallacetown Rd to Wallacetown. There are a few shops at Wallacetown, and public toilets in the garage on your left as you enter town. From Wallacetown, carefully follow SH 99 for 3.5km before turning right down Steel Rd. Turn left at West Plains Rd, and right at Gloucester St. After entering the fringe of Invercargill, turn left along Bay Rd, and then at the main road (SH 6) turn right onto the signposted cycle path that crosses the Waihopai River. Take the shared path across the river and then turn right to follow a gravel path around the western edge of Invercargill.

There are various places where you can branch away from the trail and into the city for supplies or accommodation. After crossing Tweed Street, continue following the gravel path south, around New River Estuary and south to Kekeno Pl. From Kekeno Pl, the trail mostly follows parallel to SH 1 and is sealed. It provides a fast, safe ride, to Greenhills, before skirting around Bluff Harbour and into Bluff. Follow the main street for another few kilometres to Stirling Pt where you will find the famous yellow AA signs pointing out across the Foveaux Strait to various corners of the globe. You may encounter fit cyclists finishing their 3000km Tour Aotearoa ride from Cape Rēinga to Bluff. There is a restaurant just above the signs where you can relax and watch travellers come and go.

Moments of Adventure.

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