8 minute read
OTAGO CENTRAL RAIL TRAIL
CLYDE to MIDDLEMARCH
1-5 days - 152km
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© AA Traveller 2022
It’s the cycle trail that put many of the Central Otago’s small, forgotten towns back on the map. By encompassing all that is warm and welcoming about Central Otago, this former railway track provides an incredibly wholesome experience, and one that is largely nurtured by the locals.
Get ready for some good old southern hospitality. Over the course of five days and 152km, you’ll bank many friendly encounters. All off-road and with no traffic to contend with, there’s only expansive terrain and self-reliant townships rich in craftmanship. Country cafés serve coffee and home-made cakes, while the wineries celebrate the region’s grape offerings. You can admire the tough grind of a working farm or discover how New Zealand’s world-famous wool is grown.
Open year-round, the trail can be started from either end (Clyde or Middlemarch), or broken into shorter 1-4 day-rides to suit your agenda. The experience is designed to be slow, so you can dismount frequently and consume both the delicious scenery and local flavours.
The landscape abounds with railway stations, tunnels and viaducts, as well as fascinating remnants from the gold rush era, including towns that still feature mud-brick walls and stone buildings. For every charming country pub, there are old-world general stores. If anything, you’ve cycled back in time; yesteryear’s simplicities are both the secret and the seduction of Central Otago.
Clyde Railhead © James Jubb
TRAIL INFO
TRAIL GRADES
ALL GRADE 1 (EASIEST)
CLYDE TO CHATTO CREEK, 25KM
CHATTO CREEK TO LAUDER, 19KM
LAUDER TO ŌTŪRĒHUA, 22.5KM
ŌTŪRĒHUA TO RANFURLY, 25.5KM
RANFURLY TO HYDE, 32.5KM
HYDE TO MIDDLEMARCH, 27.5KM
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is decent for the majority of the trail, but gets weak or nonexistent in more remote sections.
DRINKING WATER: Fill up your water bottles before you leave your accommodation each day, and refill (or purchase more) as you pass through the settlements.
TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid or mountain bike is recommended. E-bikes are also permitted.
RIDING THE TRAIL
CLYDE TO CHATTO CREEK, 25KM
Allow plenty of time to explore historic Clyde before you set off. The trail is well signposted from the centre of town. Not long into the journey, it crosses its first railway curiosity – Muttontown Viaduct – one of the trail’s only two wooden trestle bridges without stone abutments. Orchards, vineyards and pasture line the route to Alexandra, the trail’s largest town, from where it heads through old gold diggings and high-country farms – home to the world’s finest merino sheep. Schist outcrops scraggle a landscape cut through by the willow-lined Manuherikia River. This section ends at Chatto Creek where there’s a charming country pub.
CHATTO CREEK TO LAUDER, 19KM
Continue through the irrigated lower Manuherekia Valley before ascending the sweeping S-bend up Tiger Hill. At Ōmakau, riders can detour to Ophir, another charming country town, Ophir boasts well-preserved mud-brick and stone buildings from the gold rush, including the photogenic Post Office. Ride on through Ophir and loop back to Ōmakau via the Daniel O’Connell Bridge. Constructed between 1879 and 1880, this attractive structure is a characteristic example of Central Otago suspension bridges with schist masonry towers. Back at Ōmakau, the trail meanders through a lovely open landscape flanked by the Dunstan and Raggedy ranges. At Lauder, admire a clutch of rustic old buildings and breathe in the crisp air – said to be some of the purest on the planet.
LAUDER TO ŌTŪRĒHUA, 22.5KM
As you set off on this easy roll through rugged terrain, spare a thought for the 300 workers who took three years to build the two tunnels and two impressive bridges along the way. Manuherikia No.1 Bridge is first up, from where the trail climbs gradually into the stunning Poolburn Gorge to pass through the two tunnels that cut through sheer schist – 201m and 230m long respectively. The trail then crosses the 108m-long Poolburn Viaduct before descending past the old Auripo and Ida Valley stations, and Ida Burn Dam where the ancient sport of curling is played when it freezes over. Ōtūrēhua is a veritable goldmine of local history – don’t miss Hayes Engineering Works & Homestead and the totally eye-popping Gilchrist’s Store. From Ōtūrēhua, it’s possible to take the highly recommended detour to St Bathans – worth visiting for its man-made lake (great for swimming) along with a clutch of historic buildings including a crusty pub. It’s a 20km ride to get there, some reasonable hill climbs en route. Bike back to Ōtūrēhua for a 40km total off trail detour, or rejoin the trail further east at Idaburn, a 39km total off trail detour.
ŌTŪRĒHUA TO RANFURLY, 25.5KM
The latitude line of 45 degrees south is the first notable landmark beyond Ōtūrēhua, follow the intersection with Reefs Rd where a detour may be made to the Golden Progress Mine site and its wooden poppet head. There are splendid views of the Hawkdun and Ida ranges as the trail climbs gently to its high point of 618m above sea level. A little further along is the Wedderburn Goods Shed made famous by lauded landscape artist Grahame Sydney. It’s a good spot for contemplation before the cruise downward across the Māniototo Plains. Before you hit Ranfurly, it’s worth considering a side-trip or overnight stop in Naseby. Around 10km off the trail, Naseby is a little winner with its two lovely old pubs, indoor curling rink, unusual swimming dam and forested MTB trails suitable for all ages. Another 25km on from Naseby is Dansey’s Pass, a one-horse town well off the beaten track, famous for its rustic hotel. Unless you’re super fit and eager, the distance and nature of the terrain make this detour best suited to driving. Back on the main trail, this section ends at the sweet little country town of Ranfurly, notable for its art deco architecture and a smattering of serviceable shops and cafés.
RANFURLY TO HYDE, 32.5KM
This section offers broad views of the Kakanui Mountains and Ida Range as it heads towards Waipīata, where it’s worth cycling up to the historic Hamilton cemetery for expansive views of the surroundings. As the trail leaves the Māniototo Plain, it skirts the sunken depression where Lake Taieri used to be before it was silted up by gold miners. The trail passes yet another rustic gangers’ shed at Kokonga, then enters the upper Taieri Gorge. This pretty section passes the old Red Dwarf gangers’ hut at Daisybank, and at Tiroiti there’s a well-preserved stone bridge with iron trusses. Further along at Price’s Creek is a notable viaduct followed by a 152m-long, fully bricked tunnel. The trail then enters the open and dramatic country of Strath Taieri Plain. The old gold-mining town of Hyde is a popular place to break the journey.
HYDE TO MIDDLEMARCH, 27.5KM
Check out the Hyde Railway Station, which is presented in almost operating condition, before continuing on an easy downhill ride into the Strath Taieri Plain and its many bridges and culverts. Just south of Hyde Station, a memorial cairn commemorates the site of the region’s worst rail disaster in which 21 were killed in 1943. The trail traverses the foothills of the 1400m high Rock and Pillar Range with its huge rocky outcrops, before meandering through the valley’s productive farmland to the Ngāpuna Station site. In the east is the 700m high Taieri Ridge. The trail finally reaches its end at Middlemarch.
Otago Central Rail Trail © Brian R Richards
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Breathe in the Central Otago air, said to be some of the purest on the planet, and drink Central Otago wine at one of the many acclaimed cellar doors.
• Meet the people of Central Otago and experience authentic southern hospitality.
• In Poolburn Gorge, two tunnels cut through sheer schist – an impressive 201m and 230m long respectively.
• The town of Naseby is famed for its curling. With both indoor and outdoor rinks, go and give it a whirl (or should that be curl)!
• Orchards and vineyards line the track to Alexandra and a cruise on the Clutha River is highly recommended.
• Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead is a gold mine of local history in Ōtūrēhua.
• Gilchrist’s general store in Ōtūrēhua has original 19th century products on its shelves.
• The now iconic Wedderburn Goods Shed was first made famous by landscape artist Grahame Sydney and has since been bolstered by Instagram users.
• The town of Ophir features preserved mudbrick and stone buildings from the gold-rush era, including a handsome Post Office.
• Ganger sheds freckle the trail. Formerly used by ‘working gangs’ (the men responsible for track maintenance), the sheds provided shelter and a space for ‘smoko’ breaks.
• Art deco Ranfurly Following a series of 1930s fires, Ranfurly was rebuilt with all the art deco flare of the era. The town’s art deco walk absorbs much of this grand aesthetic. The Centennial Milk Bar is an iconic art deco building and houses an attractive art gallery.
• Lake Dunstan Trail opened in May 2021 and links this trail from Clyde to Cromwell. See page 123. Roxburgh and Clutha trails also link to this trail.
