8 minute read
ST JAMES CYCLE TRAIL
MALING PASS CAR PARK to ST JAMES HOMESTEAD
1-2 days - 64km
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© AA Traveller 2022
PLEASE NOTE: The trail is currently impassable at McArthur Bridge (36km) with no access across the Waiau River. All other elements of the trail are open.
Wide dirt tracks and expansive grassy flats stretch for as far as the eye can see. The lofty mountain peaks that look touchable are in fact, days of climbing away, and churning rivers cut through the landscape in seeming silence, until you get closer, and the water roars like a storming brigade.
For the fittest of riders, the St James Cycle Trail can be knocked on the head in one day, but it pays to experience the trail over two. Sunrise and sunset in such remote parts is a big bonus, and you’ll get the chance to stay overnight in charming old huts. St James Station was one of New Zealand’s largest high-country farms, dating back to 1862 and there are still a handful of preserved farmers’ buildings to mooch around. Most remnants, however, have been swallowed by golden valleys andbeech forest.Along the route you will pass through broad river valleys framed by crinkled mountainside. Rivers lead to hidden lakes and there is much wildlife: herds of wild horses are commonplace and nonchalant rabbits roam defiantly, having long since broken through the 1889 ‘rabbit-proof’ fencing.This ride is challenging in parts, but on a sun-filled day, when the rays beam on golden meadows, it really is perfect.
TRAIL INFO
TRAIL GRADES:
MALING PASS CAR PARK TO WAIAU 4WD ROAD END, 12KM - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) to GRADE 4 (ADVANCED)
WAIAU 4WD ROAD END TO SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE, 15.5KM - GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE)
SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE TO SCOTTIES HUT, 14.5KM - GRADE 4 (ADVANCED) to GRADE 5 (EXPERT) Note: Impassable at the McArthur Bridge. No access across the Waiau River.
SCOTTIES HUT TO ST JAMES HOMESTEAD, 17KM - GRADE 2-3 (EASY TO INTERMEDIATE)
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Coverage is lost once you go over Jacks Pass from Hanmer Springs.
DRINKING WATER: Available at various points along the trail, most easily accessible near the huts; note that boiling or treating it is recommended. Be sure to carry plenty in high summer.
TYPE OF BIKE: A ship-shape mountain bike is essential. E-bikes are not permitted on trails graded 4 and above.
Biking in Hanmer Springs © Hanmer Springs Photography
RIDING THE TRAIL
MALING CAR PARK TO WAIAU 4WD ROAD END, 12KM
Those with a sense of adventure will feel pretty excited as they head off on the 4WD track into instantly big-hitting vistas. There are glimpses of Lake Tennyson as the trail winds steadily around the foothills of the St James range, climbing 250m over 6km to reach Maling Pass. A pretty big reveal from the highpoint (1308m) grows ever greater on the descent, which winds down through alpine tussock and beech forest, and passes an 1889 rabbit-proof fence long-since breached by the bunny brigade. On the floor of the valley, the 4WD track levels out and comes to an end along Waiau River’s east bank.
WAIAU 4WD ROAD END TO SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE, 15.5KM
This section of trail starts out on a purpose-built cycle track that soon emerges into wide river terraces near the junction with the sidetrack to Lake Guyon. It’s well worth riding the extra 20min or so each way (5km in all) to Lake Guyon hut, as it takes in different vantages of the incredibly pretty lake and surrounds. The old hut is also a particularly nice spot for a break from the bike with the opportunity for a cooling dip – even if it’s just a toe. Back on the main trail, riders follow the old stock and farm tracks meandering down valley over the grassy river flats, passing by Little Lake and Muddy Lakes before arriving at the spectacular Saddle Spur Bridge. A herd of wild horses inhabit this area and can often be seen grazing the river flats.
SADDLE SPUR BRIDGE TO SCOTTIES HUT, 14.5KM
PLEASE NOTE: McArthur Bridge is closed and impassable.
This is the most challenging section of the trail, with 240m of climbing made all the more testing by some rocky and uneven terrain. Some narrow downhill sections and steep drop-offs require particular care, especially as any uncontrolled dismount may see you plough headlong into thorny matagouri. Having crossed to the river’s western side via the bridge over a stunning rocky gorge, riders are faced with the push over Saddle Spur. Down the other side, the track meanders another 5km or so to Pool Hut – micro-sized and a little bit mousey but well positioned around the middle of the trail. The trail then comes to the McArthur Bridge, which at the time of print, is impassable. There is no access across the Waiau River. When the bridge reopens, you would continue by following an old farm track up a series of terraces before winding steeply to Charlies Saddle. The changing views are to die for; the climb you will survive. An invigorating descent leads to a bridge over the Edwards River and the hunters’ haven, Scotties Hut.
SCOTTIES HUT TO ST JAMES HOMESTEAD, 17KM
A 4WD track leads up the meadowlined Edwards Valley, with the terrain generally smooth save for short stretches of rocky riverbed and four unbridged stream crossings. A worthwhile 10min detour leads to Cow Stream hot springs. The trail makes its final sizeable climb out of the valley to reach Peters Pass, from where an easy downhill run wends down the smaller but no less beautiful Peters Valley. A series of farm fences signals the approach to St James Homestead, which appears straight out of the pages of New Zealand’s high country farming history. Be sure to nosy around the old farm buildings before you leave.
St James Cycle Trail © Bevan Trielbels
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Career down river on an exhilarating river rafting adventure along the Clarence River Dazzling scenery make this a 10/10 experience.
• Intrepid stays at rough-and-ready highland huts. For the lavish amongst us, a short detour leads to the more luxurious Anne Hut.
• A short but steep trail arrives at the 41m Dog Stream Waterfall. Sturdy footwear is recommended as the track is rocky and slippery, often muddy after rainfall.
• Skinny swing bridges teeter over thrashing rivers.
• The fast and fun downhill ride to Ada Homestead is exhilarating and shin-deep river crossings add to the adventure. Ada Homestead is worth checking out with early colonial-run buildings that are constructed from mud and wooden studs.
• Formed after the 1929 Murchison earthquake, detour to the incredible Maruia Falls.
• St James’ wild horses are living the dream in the hinterland, standing stoic on the prairie.
• Along the second section, take a short detour to picturesque Lake Guyon for a quick dip.
• Cow Stream hot springs Don’t miss the 10-minute detour to two naturally heated rock pools bubbling with hot water.
• River crossings This route provides several challenging river crossings, mostly across Edwards River. Do not try to cross if the rivers are flooding.
Amberley Beach © DWB
Top places in Hurunui
Cheviot Enjoy coastal scenery, wander through the Cheviot Domain and experience 1850s rural life at Cheviot Museum. Nearby Gore Bay is a holiday hot spot with surf and rock pools.
Hanmer Springs This alpine town has excellent walks, ski fields and its praised Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa.
Culverden Browse the selection of paintings and prints by local artists at Culverden Gallery, with prices that won’t make your eyes water. The gallery has limited opening hours so call ahead.
Waikari Come for the Māori rock drawings found on the Weka Pass Walkway and stay for breathtaking sunsets.
Amberley This relaxed rural town pours some of the area’s best coffee. Venture 17km south for the Old School Collective, a boutique retail complex complete with florist, gift store and antiques sold from revamped classrooms.
