10 minute read
TASMAN'S GREAT TASTE TRAIL
NELSON ROUND TRIP 2-4 days 200km
© AA Traveller 2022
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Breathe in the tonic that is crisp, ocean air along the sparkling shores of Kaiteriteri, or watch a master glassblower manipulate great coils of molten glass; admire an army of grape vines falling into formation or sip the end result: a cool drop of snappy chardonnay. This is one hedonistic ride.
A trail with many options, all 200km of it is dipped in art galleries and boutique shops, fruit stalls, cafés, craft beer and wineries. Absorb the rural, urban, coastal and riverside scenery, with delightful forays into Tasman Bay towns. Those looking for short hops and day rides are just as welcome as those after a full-blown, four-day affair.As is common in New Zealand, looking seaward is steeped with reward: from Nelson, it’s not far to the bird-filled Waimea Inlet. As the largest enclosed estuary in the South Island, a wide range of seabirds will enchant. Other highlights include the causeway to Rabbit Island/ Moturoa. Popular for its picnic spots, pine forest and sandy beaches, a pleasant jaunt across the island leads to Ferry Landing. Pop your bike on the boat and enjoy a 200m hop to Māpua, where the cafés and shops are bountiful.Further along the route, the coastal pathway is licked with a salty breeze, while inland settlements such as Brightwater and Wakefield are pretty much paved with wine. For experiences that will arouse your internal fear detector, crossing the swing bridge over Waimea River, and later, spooky Spooners Tunnel will enthral.
TRAIL INFO TRAIL GRADES:
NELSON TO WAKEFIELD, 34KM GRADE 1 (EASIEST)
WAKEFIELD TO TAPAWERA, 31KM GRADE 2 (EASY)
TAPAWERA TO RIWAKA, 63KM GRADE 3 (INTERMEDIATE) Includes On-road section
RICHMOND TO KAITERITERI, 64KM GRADE 1-3 (EASIEST, EASY, INTERMEDIATE)
MOBILE PHONE COVERAGE: Good across the coastal section. Gaps in reception on some of the inland sections south of Wakefield and Motueka.
DRINKING WATER: Water bottles can be filled at various settlements; be sure to carry plenty on hot summer days.
TYPE OF BIKE: A hybrid bike is suitable unless you plan on tackling the Kaiteriteri MTB park.
MĀPUA FERRY: The 200m, 7min ferry journey across Māpua Inlet will take you between Rabbit Island and Māpua Wharf and back again. This is the only way to make the crossing; the alternative route is a hilly 15km via busy SH 60 and not recommended. Check the timetable ahead of time as sailings are infrequent.
E-biking – Gentle Cycling
© Lumiere/www.nelsontasman.nz
RIDING THE TRAIL
NELSON TO WAKEFIELD, 34KM Riders staying anywhere from Nelson through to Richmond can easily join the trail at many points along the way. If starting in the CBD follow the signs and head along to the St Vincent St cycle route, which follows excellent commuter paths along the historic railway reserve towards the airport. The Nelson Airport is another good place to start and has ample parking available. From here, join the coastal route to Richmond, which provides easy, relaxed riding. Trail goes adjacent to SH 6 for a while, so smile at commuting cyclists and watch the Waimea Inlet tide as you travel, or head off the trail for refreshments.As the trail nears Richmond it splits This section heads off on an inland tangent, taking in the country settlements of Brightwater and Wakefield. If you are prepared to explore off the trail there are several wine tasting opportunities here. Rich in history and home to 2000 people, Wakefield is a pleasant place to rest a while or break your journey overnight. Leaving Richmond (bottom Queen St), the trail passes through vineyards to reach Ranzau Rd, then turns a couple of corners to meet Pugh Rd and eventually the Waimea River. An impressive suspension bridge takes you to the other side. Off the bridge, it’s a left turn towards Brightwater, a welcoming place to stop for refreshments before heading onwards. Charlotte Lane then leads riders out of Brightwater, through an underpass, on to Lord Rutherford and Higgins roads and into the heart of Wakefield village via Edward St.
WAKEFIELD TO TAPAWERA, 31KM Cross the bridge on Pigeon Valley Rd and turn left to follow the off-road trail beside the Wai-iti River to Hoult Valley Rd. Ride alongside the main road (for just over 1km) to Wai-iti domain, then re-join the Wai-iti River on picturesque off-road trail until it reaches Belgrove. Check out the Belgrove Railway Windmill (built 1897) as you pass through town. The trail shadows the road for a while then follows the old Nelson Railway route through pastoral countryside and past historic tobacco kilns until it reaches the seriously spectacular Spooners Tunnel. The railway line was in use up until 1955, when its closure was met by major protests.The 1400m-long Spooners Tunnel is now New Zealand’s longest decommissioned rail tunnel. It’s also the sixth-longest pedestrian and cycle tunnel in the world, and the longest in the southern hemisphere. Suffice to say, it’s pretty dark in there, so you’ll need to carry a torch if you want to survey the interior and avoid getting spooked, although we think a spot of spookiness is all part of its charm. A warm layer is also needed as it gets quite cold, particularly in the middle and obviously more so in winter.Another 7km takes you down to Kohatu Junction (passing the Norris Gully car park along the way), which has a good place for refreshments at the Flat Rock Café. Continue following the historic railway alignment down the Motueka Valley, with views across hop plantations and farmland to Mt Arthur. Keep an eye out for remains of 150-year-old stone walls, culverts and bridges as you gradually descent to the village of Tapawera where there is a small railway museum, café, restaurant and accommodation options.
TAPAWERA TO RIWAKA, 63KM Note that there is limited food and drink available along this section so make sure you stock up at the Four Square in Tapawera.
From Tapawera there is a 15km stretch on gravel road up to the Baton Saddle and then a satisfying descent to the beautiful Baton River swing bridge, purpose built for cyclists. The trail then follows the Baton Valley Rd for 14km to Woodstock. The trail from Tapawera to Woodstock is on rural gravel road, shared by vehicles including logging trucks and milk tankers. Please keep left at all times and take care as there are sections of loose gravel. If you are on an e-bike make sure you have sufficient battery for the route, which includes a hill climb. You are in the back-country and there are no charging facilities.
From the Woodstock Bridge, it’s 27km along the West Bank Rd to Brooklyn. The road is relatively narrow but has light traffic volumes. With beautiful scenery the ride is an enjoyable section where the kilometres will pass quickly under your wheels. You will be peddling through orchards, hop gardens, farmland and native bush on and the eastern boundary of Kahurangi National Park. On a warm summer day choose from numerous picturesque swimming spots along the Motueka River to have a refreshing paddle.
At Brooklyn, it’s a right turn onto Old Mill Rd, left onto Anderson Rd, straight across Umukuri Rd, on Swamp Rd, and then right into Factory Rd to reach the junction with SH 60 at Riwaka.
RICHMOND TO KAITERITERI, 64KM This section of trail takes you towards Māpua on a mix of quiet lanes and a stopbank track. It crosses the Waimea River via a purpose-built suspension bridge and then crosses a causeway to Rabbit Island/Moturoa, a popular recreation area. It’s a pleasant cruise across the island to reach the ferry landing, then it’s just a 200m boat hop to Māpua Wharf.
After a short cycle along the shore along Ruby Bay you head into rolling hill country. Most folks will find it a comfortable granny-gear climb to a highpoint where there are panoramic views across to the western ranges and big blue of Tasman Bay. There’s plenty of time to take it all in as the trail gradually descends via the aptly named Tasman View Rd. After a few turns left and right along more country roads you’ll arrive at Motueka. Follow the salt-licked sights of Motueka’s seafront, then cross the impressive Motueka River and follow pretty country lanes to reach Riwaka, keeping your eyes peeled for a pie shop, café, brewery and fruit stalls. Riwaka is the junction of the inland trail heading up the Motueka Valley.
Riwaka to Kaiteriteri is a there-and-back ride of 8km each way. An underpass provides safe access to Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park. Riders without much ‘mountain biking’ experience should still enjoy this gently rolling and sweeping route through to Kaiteriteri. Please be careful as this is single trail with some blind corners and bikers travelling in both directions. Kaiteriteri Beach’s glorious golden sands teem with holidaymakers in summer. The waterfront café is a good spot to take it all in. Various Abel Tasman National Park adventures also start from here. Return to Riwaka to re-join the trail.
ADD-ON TRAIL
Golden Downs Trail: 66km/1 day This links Nelson Lakes National Park with Wakefield and then connects with the Tasman’s Great Taste Trail at Wakefield to form a continuous touring route between the National Park and Nelson city.
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRAIL
• Catching the ferry to Māpua gives this trail a charming point of difference. There is just one ferry crossing every hour.
• The lovely little town of Motueka is surrounded by fruit orchards and hop gardens.
• Pick your own berries (seasonal) at Tasman Bay Berries in Richmond. Or head straight to the counter and order a real fruit ice cream from December to February.
• Take a free tour of Pic’s Peanut Butter World.
• Riding through Rabbit Island with ocean on one side and pine forest on the other is a treat.
• Tasman, Marlborough and Nelson wines are world-class, the hard part is choosing which to visit.
• Spooners Tunnel is the longest rideable railway tunnel in the southern hemisphere. There are no lights but there are reflectors.
• Nelson’s cherry blossom trees bloom in September. This is also the month of the annual Cherry Blossom Festival to celebrate the city’s Japanese sister-city, Miyazu.
• Visit Nelson Classic Car Museum, a standout attraction with more than 150 mint condition vehicles. Afterwards, grab a bite at the café, the Little Engine eatery.
• Watching hand-blown glass art at Nelson’s flamedaisy studio and gallery is almost hypnotic.
• Abel Tasman National Park is on the doorstep, where blue water, golden sands and green flora all wait to seduce you.
Abel Tasman National Park, Adele Island
© nelsontasman.nz
