6 minute read
Heading 'Up North' to Greatness
Northland is an avid storyteller. Historic accounts flood from its age-worn settlements, tales pass between elders and their kin, and the land is steeped in Māori tradition.
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Visitors are provided with an excellent opportunity to learn about New Zealand’s earliest inhabitants, listen to the lore of the land and delve into a captivating past. Proud to be called the Birthplace of the Nation, Northland is a region instrumental in shaping the New Zealand of today.
Historians estimate that Kupe, the legendary Polynesian navigator, first settled at Hokianga Harbour in 925 AD. Centuries later, when the first Pakeha (Europeans) arrived, Māori and Pakeha had to learn – often turbulently – to live together. The signing of the Treaty of Waitangi occurred on 6 February 1840. This resulted in British control over the country or governance, depending on whether you're reading the English or Māori version. The Waitangi Treaty Grounds chronicles this occasion and the decision, mixed with defiance, which was ultimately made by about 40 Māori chiefs on that day.
Rainbow Falls, Kerikeri
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The town of Kerikeri hosts some of the country’s oldest buildings, creaking with the weight of secrets trapped within their walls, while the ancient kauri trees of the Waipōua Forest, some five metres in diameter and 60 metres tall, have lived through every New Zealand milestone.
The ocean, both New Zealand’s gateway and guardian, is wild and unruly on the west coast, while the east is privy to white-sand serenity. The Bay of Islands in particular hosts a bevy of idyllic isles and bays. In contrast is the wind-whipped tip of Cape Rēinga where you'll see the meeting of the Tasman Sea and the fierce Pacific. As one of New Zealand’s most sacred sites, it’s here Māori believe spirits of the dead depart the world.
Whether you arrive in Northland to chase oceans, forest or townships, behind every beautiful vista there is an equally gripping story.
The summer never ends in the WHANGĀREI DISTRICT
Ocean Beach, Whangārei
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Beach escapes - MANGAWHAI
MANGAWHAI AND MANGAWHAI HEADS ARE PART OF THE KAIPARA DISTRICT ON NORTHLAND'S EAST COAST. IT'S A HOLIDAY HOT SPOT THANKS TO ITS PLATINUM WHITE BEACHES: FIVE BEING WITHIN A 15-MINUTE DRIVE.
Mangawhai Heads
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Sometimes there’s no better place than a laid-back beach town. Put all the urban bustle of Auckland in your rear view mirror and arrive in Mangawhai less than 90 minutes later.
Brimming with sea, sand, golf courses and tasty artisanal produce such as hand-made chocolates, gourmet cheese and olive oil, it's easy to settle into the good life in Mangawhai. Kick back and go fishing, swimming, surfing, birdwatching or horse riding.
Mangawhai’s surf beach, Mangawhai Heads sits a further 5km north and is a real treat. Lofty gold sand dunes are its standout feature, while the 5km Mangawhai Walk weaves along the beach and up a pretty track, leading to outstanding views of Bream Head and the Hauraki Gulf.
Off-the-Beaten Track - OCEAN BEACH
Ocean Beach, Whangārei
Gyles Dyer
The road to Ocean Beach may have been upgraded from a dirt track to tarseal over the years, but that hasn't changed its serene appeal. There are no shops or cafés here, just good surf, good people, warm water and explorable rock pools.
Highland Heritage in Waipū
Led by Scotsman, Norman McLeod, almost 1000 Scottish Highlanders migrated to Waipū in 1854 having already journeyed to Nova Scotia and Australia. This great voyage is told in fascinating detail at the Waipū Museum, including heritage trails to historic sites such as the McLeod’s house, the church and the blacksmiths. The annual Waipū Highland Games are held every New Year’s Day, with haggis and field events aplenty.
GLORIOUS COAST
Lap up Whangārei’s year-round subtropical climate, where every day is a good day for beach walks, surfing and sailing.
National Geographic Traveler rates Whangārei District as one of the top three coastlines in the world, so forget your togs at your own risk.
On your way north, schedule a stop in Te Hana, a small town that has found a new life in recent times. Experience Northland before European settlers at Te Ao Mārama, a Māori cultural centre with overnight marae accommodation, guided tours and delicious hangi pies in the café. The Arts Factory and its captivating owner will also enthral, and the enormous kauri sculptures are a particular highlight.
If you’re staying here over the weekend, stop at Mangawhai and visit the Mangawhai Village Market held every Saturday from 9am-1pm on Moir St. Alternatively, the Mangawhai Beach and Country Market is on designated Sundays at the Mangawhai Domain from Labour Weekend until Easter.
The sheer number of shells saturating Ruakākā Beach indicate how fruitful the shellfishing opportunities are, while a short 12-minute drive north brings Marsden Cove into the picture. Home to a pretty marine village and Marsden Point Oil Refinery. Check out the 150-square-metre model replica at the visitor centre; accurate to every last pipe and valve, visitors are always left impressed.
Waipū? Why not?!
BEACHES ARE EASY ON THE EYE, SURFERS LITTER THE WAVES AND LOCALS PACE THE SAND WITH THEIR DOGS. WAIPŪ IS THE KIND OF PLACE YOU’LL WANT TO STAY FOREVER.
Explore Waipū Caves. The car park is all but three minutes from the entrance, but once inside you can wander deep into the abyss. Stepping-stones and hanging stalagmites pierce the pitch-black crevices twinkling with glowworms. Back outside, stride from Langs Beach to Waipū Cove via the 90-minute Waipū Coastal Trail, famed for its rock slabs, exhilarating ledges and exposed cliff edge. When in Waipū itself, nip into Little Red, a shipping container-cum-coffee shop with adorable Cape Codstyle chairs out front, or try McLeod’s Pizza Barn and Brewery (directly opposite) for small batch brews and an inventive pizza menu. Should time permit, nearby Pīroa Falls look year-round fabulous.
Waipū Caves
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BREAM BAY DREAMY BEACHES
A long curve of white sand dotted with bays and coastal communities, ask any local and they'll tell you the water is warm enough to swim in from November through to May.
RUAKĀKĀ - Pristine beach with summer surf patrol for safe swimming. Also popular for surfing, horse riding and kitesurfing. Sunrise beach walks are nothing short of exceptional.
Langs Beach, Bream Bay
Destination Northland
URETITI - Often deserted, a small, picturesque DOC camp site hides behind the sand dunes. Surfing, fishing, swimming and horse riding are all excellent.
LANGS BEACH - A coastal paradise of soft white sand. There are no shops, but Zippy's food and ice cream truck parks up regularly.
DING BAY - Small and curvy, dolphins regularly frequent this quiet sliver of shoreline.
