11 minute read
The Eye-Gasmic Bay of Islands
Boy oh boy are you in for a treat. Welcome to an oasis that's freckled with 144 to-die-for islands, gold sand and sunshine.
Remember when you were small and you’d draw pictures of the seaside? And it was all impossibly blue water bleeding into yellow sand and rolling green hills? Well, such an idyllic existence doesn’t solely exist in a child’s mind; it’s very real, very reachable and it’s called the Bay of Islands.
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Once you’ve finished goggling at these startling vistas, you’ll be inspired to jump in. Quite literally. You’ll also find no issue pursuing paragliding and big-game fishing, snorkelling and sea kayaking. Divers are also spoilt, with mile after mile of rocky seabeds and two noteworthy shipwrecks.
Take a cruise in the company of whales and dolphins, or sail to the world-famous ‘Hole in the Rock’ where your skipper will expertly navigate the wide vessel through a narrow gap.
Active types can walk to serene Rainbow Falls or kayak up the Waitangi River to the thunderous Haruru Falls, whereas history buffs will enjoy Russell, namely for its fascinating, salacious past and the ancient Duke of Marlborough Hotel with its delightful, seafronting pub.
Urupukapuka Island, Bay of Islands
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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
• Kupe, the legendary Polynesian navigator, first settled at the Hokianga Harbour in 925 AD. For centuries after this, more Māori arrived in their waka (canoes).
• The Bay of Islands is home to tribes such as Ngāpuhi.
• The signing of the Treaty of Waitangi took place in 1840. Learn more at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Open daily, except Christmas Day.
• In 2006, a study found that the Bay of Islands has the second bluest sky in the world after Rio de Janeiro.
• Located in what’s often referred to as the ‘winterless north’, winters are mild and summers are hot. Typically, temperatures are 20-22°C in summer and 15-16°C in winter.
• Sheltered bays and tropical currents from the equator make the water very inviting.
Hundertwasser toilets, Kawakawa
NorthlandNZ.com
Looking For A Loo?
When heading north to Paihia and its surrounds, make sure you stop in Kawakawa to see the unusual Hundertwasser public toilets. The multi-coloured tiles, collage and psychedelic design in the beautiful toilet block are the only southern hemisphere project of the world-famous Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. We bet you’ve never spent such a colourful few minutes on the throne.
RUSSELL
History to Make your Eyes Water
Romantic Russell is a beautiful historic town on a peaceful harbour. but it wasn’t always so serene…
Russell waterfront
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It’s a beauty now, but over 180 years ago, Russell was better known by its unflattering nickname – The Hell Hole of the Pacific.
This was mostly because the European population was growing and so were the number of runaway convicts, drunkards and wayward seamen. Collectively they made it rather rowdy. Fast forward to the present day and Russell’s attractive promenade and quiet waterfront speaks nothing of its debaucherous past.
The unruly residents are long gone but Russell’s heritage buildings stand much as they did during the 19th century. Pop into The Duke of Marlborough Hotel for a hearty lunch; it’s one of the oldest pubs in New Zealand and if you score a seat on the deck you can sit and watch the ebb and flow of the bay.
Outdoor pursuits include renting kayaks and dinghies along the Strand, cycling 1.5km to Long Beach for a swim, or catching a ferry from the wharf to an offshore island. It is from Russell where you can also embark on the Twin Coast Cycle Trail.
Energetic PAIHIA
Paihia sunrise
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Strap yourself in. There’s so much to do in Paihia, you’ll barely have time to stop for breath.
Many visitors to the Bay of Islands choose Paihia as their base: accommodation is plentiful and restaurants showcase the superb locally caught seafood.If you’re in need of relaxation, book a massage at one of Paihia’s day spas or simply wander towards the water and laze on the white-sand beach. If it’s spine-tingling adventure you’re after, go skydiving and take in the amazing views of the Bay of Islands, test your skills on a flying trapeze, try paragliding, or whiz out to the Hole in the Rock on a speedboat. To gain an insight into local Māori culture, book a culture show or to learn about the birth of modern day New Zealand visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and Museum. For those who want to get active, the easy, two-day Twin Coast Cycle Trail weaves between Paihia and Hōreke. Cyclists will also love the Waitangi Mountain Bike Park in the Waitangi Endowment Forest which has over 40km of scenic trails.
PAIHIA FARMERS’ MARKET
There’s no need to set the alarm because this all-weather farmers’ market doesn’t start until midday. Set up opposite the Maritime Building on the village green, many of the stalls are organically certified and offer tastings right up until closing time, which is 4.30pm.
5 FREE Activities to do in PAIHIA
1. HARURU FALLS - Set off on a 2.5-hour walk along Waitangi River to Haruru Falls and back. Wide and boisterous, if you’re not on a budget, you can also rent a kayak and paddle there.
2. FLAGSTAFF HILL - In the 19th century this important landmark saw the British raise the Union Jack on four different occasions, only for it to be removed by defiant Māori every time. The hill is now a circuit walk with panoramic views across the isles.
3. ŌPUA FOREST - This easy 30-minute return walk reaches an elevated platform surrounded by kauri trees. The youngsters are just 25 years old, but their ancestors are over 400.
4. SULLIVANS BEACH - A local secret, you need to scramble across the rocks at the southern end of Paihia Beach at low tide to reach this sheltered spot.
5. FERRY TO RUSSELL - It’s not free but for $13 you can catch the 15-minute ferry to Russell. Observing picturesque islands en route is well worth the splurge.
Fish and chips in Russell
David Kirkland
SAILING THE BAY OF ISLANDS
See it all from the water!
The Bay of Islands is exactly that – a bay full of islands. It therefore makes perfect sense to explore the region by boat. Whether you launch from Ōpua, Paihia, Russell or Kerikeri, you’re bound to discover your own private piece of paradise.
Misty morning, Bay of Islands
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Sailing options include half-day, full-day and overnight trips with vessels ranging from 20ft yachts to traditional gaff-rigged schooners. Dive in – beds of plump scallops await divers and the fishing here is excellent.
For something unique, the ‘Cream Trip’ is fantastic. In 1920 a launch service began running to the scattered islands to pick up cream from the dairy farms. It also dropped off mail and supplies for a number of years. Sightseers started going along for the ride and the trip subsequently became a daily commercial tour.
WAITANGI
History in the making
If you want to know more about Māori and European history in New Zealand this is where to start.
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
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Waitangi welcomes families to visit the Treaty Grounds and those under the age of eighteen get in for free (not including groups).
A Family Pass costs $50 for a New Zealand family, which must include two adults. It’s valid to use across two days and includes the following:
• A children’s Discovery Trail is provided on arrival. There are three different types for different age groups
• Full access to the historic sites, including all heritage buildings and the world’s largest war canoe
• Entry to Te Kōngahu Museum of Waitangi and Te Rau Aroha Museum
• Informative guided tour around Waitangi Treaty Grounds (50 minutes)
• Authentic Māori cultural performance (30 minutes)
• Live demonstrations in the Carving Studio
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
Destination Northland
It was in Waitangi on 6 February 1840 that the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed between Māori and the British Crown. The treaty established British control over New Zealand or governance (kāwanatanga), depending on whether you’re reading the English or Māori version. And while neglected for many years, the treaty has played an increasingly important role in recent times. The 35-metre waka taua (war canoe), Ngātokimatawhaorua, was built for the centenary of the treaty and a photographic exhibit details how it was fashioned from gigantic kauri logs.
The flagpole in the grounds marks the spot where the Crown representatives and Māori chiefs signed the treaty. Other must-see attractions on the estate include the Treaty House, which was built in 1832 for the first British resident James Busby, as well as a magnificently ornate Māori meeting house and master carvers busy at work. Admission fees apply for entry to the Treaty Grounds with discounts available for New Zealand residents.
WAITANGI NEWS
Carving at the Meeting House, Waitangi Treaty Grounds
David Kirkland
Keep calm and KERIKERI on
Come, stay a while – Kerikeri has plenty to keep its visitors happy.
Kemp House
Northlandnz.com
BUT FIRST, WINE! Hundreds of years ago, Samuel Marsden had an inkling that grape vines would prosper in Aotearoa, and he inkled right. Now a multimillion-dollar industry, Kerikeri is the official birthplace of New Zealand wine and the cellar doors are plentiful.
ARTISTS, ARTISTS, EVERYWHERE With its relaxed holiday vibe, many artists have set up home here. Pick up a Kerikeri Art Trail Map and visit galleries and workshops. The talented artists at Keriblue Ceramics will ensure you return home with a boot full of hand-made homewares.
FUDGE FOR ALL Keriblue Ceramics is anything but a one trick pony. The studio is also home to ‘Get Fudged’,with 36 flavours to buy.
FEATHERY RESIDENTS The Parrot Place is home to 300 exotic birds including a dancing macaw. Some of these exotic residents are also prone to perching on visitors’ arms, hands and shoulders.
MĀORI VILLAGES Rewa’s Village is a replica Māori fishing village representing life before Europeans arrived. You can also enter the Discoverers Garden from here and learn how Māori learnt to use different plants in their day-to-day activities.
NEW ZEALAND’S OLDEST BUILDING Established in 1819, the Kerikeri Mission Station was one of the first places where Māori and Europeans lived together. Home to both the Stone Store, built in 1832, and Aotearoa’s oldest building, thepreserved Kemp House, it offers a physical peek into the past. Pintsized visitors can partake in the daily Children’s Chores Tour.
KERIKERI MISSION STATION. The historical Kerikeri mission station was protected by a chief called Hongi Hika. He encouraged European settlement so he could get his hands on muskets and give his people of Ngāpuhi a military advantage over other tribes.
Stone Store, Kerikeri
Destination Northland
TICK THESE OFF YOUR KERIKERI TO-DO LIST
Marina, Kerikeri
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• Access to Aroha Island is via a causeway just 11km from Kerikeri town centre. If you decide to stay over at this 12ha bird sanctuary, the kiwi-spotting night walk is not to be missed.
• There’s nothing more refreshing than jumping off the embankments at Charlie’s Rock swimming spot.
• Chocoholics rejoice! Watching master chocolatiers at work and gobbling samples is all part of the Makana chocolate factory experience.
• Cinnamon sugared doughnuts are always a good idea. The Rusty Tractor Café is open 8am-3pm every day and dishes out these sweet sensations for breakfast.
TUCK IN!
From fine wine to kiwifruit, Kerikeri is a town to gorge on.
Kororipo Heritage Park, Kerikeri
NorthlandNZ.com
Hongi Hiki was kind to European missionaries, allowing Samuel Marsden various privileges, including the freedom to start growing grapes. Having established that New Zealand was favourable for wine making, Kerikeri became the first place in the country to plant vines. And what a success that was!
Kerikeri’s warm, sunny weather also provides ideal growing conditions for oranges, kiwifruit, tamarillos, macadamia nuts and avocados. Buy them fresh and in season at the Old Packhouse Market, held every Saturday and Sunday morning. Failing that, the Bay of Islands farmers’ market pops up every Sunday morning on Hobson Ave in the Post Office car park.
Still hungry? There’s also gourmet cheese, ice cream and liqueurs to try, and chocoholics will be pleased to know that there are free samples at Makana Confections.
Kororipo Heritage Park, Kerikeri
NorthlandNZ.com
EXPLORE WATERFALLS AND NATIVE BUSH
Take a 3.5km walk along the Kerikeri River Track which follows the riverbank to Wharepuke Falls and its peaceful swimming hole. Dry off and move on to the next dazzling swimming spot called Fairy Pools, just 10 minutes further. Rainbow Falls are as pretty as the name suggests and only 4.5km from the centre of Kerikeri. The water spills with a thunderous grace over a 27-metrehigh ledge. Aroha Island is Kerikeri’s best-kept secret. Accessed via causeway or kayak, this 12ha sanctuary is an Eden of plantlife, birdlife and glistening water.
Rainbow Falls
David Kirkland
