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12 TOP WALKS IN THE LOWER SOUTH ISLAND

© AA Traveller 2021

1. ROYS PEAK TRACK

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Roys Peak, Wanaka © Adobe Stock

Where is it? A 10-minute drive from Wanaka.

Terrain: Steep walking track with a continuous climb. Exposed to the elements throughout.

Good to know: The track is on private property and closed from 1 October to 10 November for lambing.

Need to know: No dogs. 5-6hr return; 16km. High fitness required. Strenuous, uphill gradient.

TRACK OVERVIEW: The Insta-influencers have made this already popular track even more sought after, most notably for the photographic viewpoint approximately one hour before the summit. It is here you will find a narrow, exposed path leading to a vantage point with views as far as the eye can see. Feast your eyes on Lake Wanaka, its islands and surrounding valleys. Further up you will reach Roys Peak itself, where Mt Aspiring sits grandly in the background. There is nothing technical about this hike, but the incline zigzags relentlessly to the top so expect a steady slog uphill, with very few shaded areas. You’ll descend via the same track or, if you choose to hike up in the afternoon, camp overnight and catch sunrise the following day.

2. QUEENSTOWN HILL TIME WALK

Queenstown Hill © Destination Queenstown

So close to the bustling centre of Queenstown, this peaceful walk offers astonishing views when you get to the lookout at the Basket of Dreams sculpture.

Where is it? Well signposted, it starts and ends at Belfast Tce, Queenstown.

Terrain: Forest paths, some rocks, it can be muddy after rain.

Good to know: You can bike the track, although you have to be a confident rider as there are steep elements. Riders and walkers need to share with care.

Need to know: No dogs. Sheep grazing, and part of the walk is on private land. 2hr return, add 30min to summit; 2.5km to summit. Moderate fitness required. Gentle gradient.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Set off beneath a forest of Douglas firs. At a point in the trail you will reach a fork; if you go left, the trail is steeper, rockier and shorter than the other path. If you choose to go right, the walk is longer but easier with several information panels along the way. When you arrive at the lookout you’ll find the Basket of Dreams sculpture, a work made of steel by artist Caroline Robinson. There you will enjoy views over the Wakatipu Basin across to The Remarkables, Cecil Peak and down to Queenstown Bay.

3. BANNOCKBURN SLUICINGS

Bannockburn © Adobe Stock

The spectacular landscape of the Bannockburn Sluicings near Cromwell can be explored on foot or by mountain bike.

Where is it?

Travel 6km southwest through Cromwell, and cross Lake Dunstan to get to Bannockburn. This site can be accessed from Felton Rd. For those with little time, there are vantage points that can be reached by car, and walks that take just 10 minutes. If you’ve got more time to spare, trace the water source back up to the Menzies Dam in Stewart Town. There are remains of a stone cottage, an early 19th century orchard, and great views across Cromwell and Bailey’s Gully.

Terrain: Moderate fitness is required as this walk climbs up above the cliff faces and includes steps. There are vantage points that can be reached by car and smaller walks also.

Need to know: Dogs on a leash only. 1.5hr; 3.5km loop track. Moderate fitness required. Cliff faces and steps.

Bannockburn Sluicings © Central Otago Tourism

TRACK OVERVIEW:The walking track gradually climbs up above the cliff faces, where you have a wide view of how people from the past and present have shaped this land. This desert is not a natural site, but the 150-year-old aftermath of the Otago gold rush. It was created by a technique known as ‘hydraulic sluicing’ where water was blasted at the hills to release the gold. What looks desolate from the entrance turns into a rough, raw and rewarding walk through a valley of caves, tunnels and rock tailings left untouched since abandoned by the last of the gold miners.

4. ROUTEBURN TRACK

Routeburn Track © Adobe Stock

One of the Great Walks, this trail features alpine landscapes, waterways, valleys and sublime views of the Routeburn Falls, Hollyford Mountains and Darren Mountains.

Where is it? It is possible to start this track from the Routeburn Shelter near Glenorchy, or from the Divide Shelter near Te Anau – both options provide spectacular views.

Terrain: Bush trails, mountain paths, boardwalks, some steep sections.

Need to know: Avoid the Routeburn Track from May to September, when there is a higher risk of avalanches. During the Great Walks season (end of October to the start of May), you'll need to book your space in one of the huts. No dogs. 2-4 days; 33km. Moderate fitness required. Intermediate tramping track.

Road from Queenstown to Glenorchy © Adobe Stock

TRACK OVERVIEW: Walk through Mt Aspiring National Park and Fiordland National Park and find yourself surrounded by mountains in territory featuring swing bridges, lakes, waterfalls, grassy flats and rushing waterways. The birdlife is in excellent health so look out for korimako (bellbirds) and the tiny fearless toutouwai (robins), as well as kea, the alpine parrot famous for its cheeky ways. For many hikers the Harris Saddle is a highlight, at 1250m above sea level. This point links the Mt Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks and is home to heart-shaped Harris Lake, with views that lift the spirit, depending on the quantity of mist, cloud and rain.

5. MILFORD TRACK

Milford Sound © Will Patino

One of the world’s best-loved multi-day walks and one of this country's Great Walks, it features lakes, mountains and views to remember forever.

Where is it? Start at Glade Wharf at the head of Lake Te Anau, 27km from the township. Finish at Sandfly Point, Milford Sounds.

Terrain: Well-formed bush and forest tracks, some steps, dirt, gravel, very steep in parts and it can be slippery after rain.

Need to know: You may only walk in one direction and you must take a boat to the start at Glade Wharf. The final leg from Sandfly Point is also by boat through the majestic Milford Sound. For those who don't want to do the whole track, there is the option to independently day walk the track. Fiordland Co offers a drop-off and pick-up boat service to Sandfly Point. No dogs. Most do it in 4 days; 53.5km. Intermediate fitness required. Very steep in parts.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Valley vistas, lakes that reflect like mirrors when the wind isn’t blowing, mountain ranges and all manner of wildlife, most of it with wings, Milford Track has been charming visitors for over 150 years. Whether you walk independently or take a guided walk for a more comfortable experience, this is a seriously stunning adventure. Mackinnon Pass is the steepest section and many walkers are glad to have poles to take the strain off their knees. The huts on the Milford Track must be booked ahead of the Great Walks season from the end of October to the start of May. Mintaro Hut is new and one of the prettiest DOC huts in the country. Be prepared; it rains here 182 days of the year. Many Milford devotees say the walk is improved when the weather is moody so perhaps it’s best to subscribe to the old adage, ‘there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad gear’.

6. KEPLER TRACK

Kepler Track © Destination Fiordland

One of the Great Walks, this charming adventure features stunning lakes, rivers and bridges, alpine scenery and an ever-changing landscape that includes tussock and towering forests.

Where is it? Start at the Kepler Track car park, 5km from Te Anau township. Many people choose to start in Te Anau.

Terrain: Gravel, rock, dirt, largely well-formed forest tracks and alpine trails.

Good to know: Make bookings in advance for huts and campsites through the Department of Conservation.

Need to know: No dogs. 3-4 days; 60km loop. Intermediate fitness required. Some climbing.

TRACK OVERVIEW: For visitors eager to experience the highlights of Fiordland, the Kepler Track is ideal because in a way it’s Fiordland’s ‘best of’ album, featuring mountain ranges, ridge walking, lakes, forests, waterfalls and glacier-carved valleys. The birdlife is flourishing and you could spy kea, weka and pīwakawaka (fantails) along with kererū, kaka and even kiwi. There are three huts and two campsites to choose from. At the Luxmore Hut, make a detour to explore the Luxmore Caves and pack a swimsuit as there are several spots that are perfect for a dip.

7. SOUTH HILL WALKWAY

A walk right in the heart of Ōamaru featuring delightful coastal views, native forest and fabulous birdlife as well as an introduction to Ōamaru’s historic landmarks.

Terrain: Hills, grass tracks, beach with rocks and some urban elements.

Need to know: 30min; 2km. Average fitness required. Some hills and grass tracks.

Little blue penguins © Waitaki Tourism

TRACK OVERVIEW: Running between Takaro Park and Lookout Point, the South Hill Walkway winds its way through Ōamaru’s fascinating historic precinct then takes you up to the lookout with an option to detour to the Ōamaru Blue Penguin Colony. The track connects with the Skyline Walk which provides excellent views of Ōamaru, too.

8. MOERAKI BOULDERS BEACH WALK & MILLENNIUM WALKWAY

Moeraki Boulders, Otago Coast © Adobe Stock

The Millennium Walkway is a lovely coastal walk, well-signposted and dotted with information boards.

Where is it? Start at Moeraki Point, between Moeraki and Hampden on the coast of Otago.

Terrain: Tracks, boardwalks, steps, stiles, beach.

Need to know: Ensure the tide is low. 3hr return; extra 1.7km along Koekohe Beach to boulders. Average fitness required. Some steps. No dogs.

The easy option: You can visit the boulders by walking a short 150m loop from the café to view the boulders from above, which also makes it possible for people in strollers and wheelchairs to enjoy this spectacle.

TRACK OVERVIEW: The Moeraki Boulders are geological wonders, giant orbs of sedimentary rocks that were created 13-65 million years ago and exposed by erosion. Many people start The Millennium Walk at the Moeraki Village lookout, strolling past Puke Mataa, the ancient pā site, before setting off around towards Millers Bay.

9. HARBOURSIDE PATH

Designed for walkers and cyclists, this path is just the beginning of a longer, wonderfully picturesque adventure. With seabirds, ships, sailboats and refreshing sea breezes in the mix, it’s hard to imagine a better family walk so close to a major city.

Port Chalmers lookout © Dunedin NZ

Where is it? Along the edge of Otago Harbour from Vauxhall at the head of the harbour to St Leonards on the way to Port Chalmers. Note there are other stretches of this project under construction, including along the peninsula from Vauxhall to Macandrew Bay.

Need to know: Approx 1hr 15min each way; 6km. Low fitness required – great for families. Flat, sealed and well-maintained. Dogs allowed.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Eventually there will be a path from Port Chalmers all the way around to Otago Peninsula with a total distance of 42km. That’s a few years away but meanwhile, a good chunk of it can be enjoyed, tracing the harbour edge. From Vauxhall Yacht Club on Portobello Rd, the path crosses the causeway, winds through the harbourside precinct and crosses the Water of Leigh at its mouth, by way of an inspiring, architecturally-designed bridge near the Forsyth Barr Stadium. From there, it continues along the harbour edge to St Leonards. It’s an accessible, achievable, good fun walk with lots of interest and plenty of photo opportunities, too, with Mt Cargill and the peninsula providing the backdrop.

10. NUGGET POINT/ TOKATA WALKS

Nugget Point, Catlins Coast © Graeme Murray

Beautiful scenery, flourishing wildlife and a lighthouse. Also great viewing of the Aurora Australis, otherwise known as the Southern Lights, from here.

Where is it? On the Catlins Coast, drive along from Kaka Point and pull in at Kaimātaitai car park.

Terrain: The pathway leads to a platform at the base of the lighthouse and the path is suitable for strollers and wheelchairs.

Bright idea: The time to view the phenomenon of Aurora Australis is during winter.

Need to know: No dogs. 10-20min return; other longer tracks as well. Low fitness required. Easy walking track.

TRACK OVERVIEW: Walk to where the land thrusts out into the sea and visit one of the country’s oldest lighthouses, where it clings to the rocks above the surging sea. Originally called Tokata by Māori, Captain Cook dubbed the land mass Nugget Point due to its resemblance to pieces of gold. The short walk to the lighthouse is particularly popular at sunrise and sunset, when the colours are sensational. Look to the rocks below and see fur seals going about their lives. Also look for elephant seals, sea lions, yellow-eyed penguins and Hector’s dolphins. Spoonbills, sooty shearwaters and gannets also make their presence felt round these waters.

11. CATHEDRAL CAVES WALK

Cathedral Caves © www.cluthanz.com

A magical mystical coastal cave trail. Explore the cliffs at the north end of Waipati Beach and discover two passages carved by the ocean, close to 200m long and 30m wide.

Where is it? Chaslands Rd, The Catlins. 15km south of Papatōwai Village, 2km from the main road.

Terrain: Bush track, beach walking, cave interiors.

Need to know: Access to Cathedral Caves is only possible one and a half hours either side of low tide and only from late October to May. Adults $5, children $1, no EFTPOS. Be sure to take a torch. Insect repellent can also be handy. To safeguard the wildlife, no dogs. 30min each way; 2km return. Easy fitness required. Easy walk.

12. RAKIURA TRACK

Rakiura, Stewart Island © Great South

Escape on an island adventure and exchange the hustle and bustle of mainland life for the tranquillity of the Rakiura Track – one of the Great Walks. Revel in the peacefulness and idyllic surroundings with the bush, birds and beach at your side. Enjoy stunning coastal views and get absorbed in lush and dense virgin forest and regenerating podocarp forest on this leisurely circular track.

This is the ultimate island wilderness experience and a taste of the way New Zealand used to be. You’ll be welcomed by a cacophony of native birdsong and a warm greeting from the locals in the tiny settlement of Oban.

The amazing Rakiura tokoeka/kiwi (unlike their cousins further north) can sometimes be seen foraging during daylight hours and can often be heard calling at the day’s end.

Immerse yourself in the history, from early Māori settlement sites around Māori Beach and Port William/Potirepo, to sawmilling relics dispersed along the track.

If you get the chance, visit iconic Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara, off Stewart Island/Rakiura, a beautiful island sanctuary open to the public.

Where is it? Oban, Stewart Island/Rakiura. Take a 20min flight from Invercargill or a 1hr ferry trip across Foveaux Strait from the southern port of Bluff.

Good to know: During the Great Walks season you will need to book your space in advance, so planning ahead is essential.

Need to know: No dogs. 3 days/2 nights; 32km. Medium fitness required. Intermediate tramping track.

TRACK OVERVIEW: On the first day enjoy stunning coastal views from Lee Bay to picturesque Little River. Continue around to walk along Māori Beach. After the swing bridge, climb up the forested ridge then down to the hut. The next day you will walk through beautiful regenerating podocarp forest, as well as lush and dense virgin forest. The track descends to North Arm on Paterson Inlet. On the third day the track goes through native forest of kāmahi and rimu, with wonderful views across the inlet. Continue to follow the coast down to secluded bays, with historic mill sites along the way. Sawdust Bay has tidal mudflats, making it a great spot to watch wading birds feeding at low tide. The track ends at Fern Gully car park, 2km from Oban.

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