7 minute read
ROAD TRIP: A journey down the Kauri Coast
Kaitāia to Ahipara via Kaitāia-Awaroa Rd near Herekino Forest and then on to Ahipara Rd to Ahipara - 12min, 13.4km
Ahipara to Ōpononi via Ahipara Rd, Kaitāia- Awaroa Rd, Awaroa Rd, Broadwood Rd Kohukohu Rd and across Hokianga Harbour on a ferry to Rāwene on SH 12, then on to Ōpononi - 1hr 57min,102km
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Ōpononi to Kaihū via SH 12 through Ōmāpere and the Waipōua Forest - 58min, 55.7km
Side Trip: Kaihū to Kai Iwi Lakes Via SH 12 off SH 12 onto Omamari Rd and then onto Kai Iwi Lakes Rd - 14min, 15.5km
Kaihū to Matakohe via SH 12 through Dargaville - 56min, 74.4km
Tāne Mahuta
David Kirkland
This part of your adventure will change all preconceptions of Northland. This road trip reveals an untamed wilderness in intriguing glimpses of secretive valleys, bush-clad hills, dusty roads and, at Kohukohu, the surprising west coast.
Hokianga Harbour is like no other. It’s deep and dangerous, with an infamous bar at its mouth, and great sand dunes on the northern edge creating an other-worldly backdrop. There is a lot of history in this region and it’s worth slowing down for.
Then it’s down the coast, south, to Dargaville with a few delights along the way including the magnificent Waipōua Forest, the utterly surprising Kai Iwi lakes and the arrival in Matakohe for a dose of kauri gum story-telling.
HIGHLIGHTS
AHIPARA is a rugged little beach town at the southern end of NINETY MILE BEACH. It’s famous for its towering sand dunes, spectacular sunsets and one of the best left-hand surf breaks in the world.
Boatshed Café, Rāwene
Northland Tourism
Ideally your introduction to the HOKIANGA HARBOUR would be by ferry from Kohukohu or Rāwene so as to get a feel for the strong tide and the marine drama of this wild harbour. Then drive to harbourside ŌPONONI and ŌMĀPERE and historic HŌREKE.
Hokianga
Northland Tourism
On the northern part of the Hokianga Harbour mouth is RANGI POINT where huge sand dunes lend themselves to dune surfing, while RĀWENE on the southern edge of the harbour, and the landing for the car ferry from KOHUKOHU, is blessed with charm and intrigue. Visit historic CLENDON HOUSE, wander the streets past heritage gardens, check out the local art gallery and take in the harbour views over lunch.
Utakura River, Hōreke
Twin Coast Cycle Trail
If you’re interested in the region’s kauri history, add KAIHŪ to your itinerary. This town played an important part in Northland’s kauri-logging boom during the 19th and early 20th centuries and the gallery celebrates all things kauri.
DARGAVILLE grows good kumara. Find out more at the Kumara Box, complete with tractor rides in old steel drums. Proud of its kauri felling and gum digging history, The Woodturners Kauri Gallery is home to woodturner, Rick Taylor,and the next door takeaway serves fab hot chips. Dargaville Museum shares stories of shipping, early pioneers, local Māori and the KAIPARA HARBOUR. In PAHI, you can marvel at dolphins, migratory orca, seals and blue penguins.
HOKIANGA'S COAST MUST-DO'S
> Rāwene
> Waipōua Forest
> Sand dunes
> Ōpononi’s historic jetty
> Kohukohu
FOUR OF THE BEST BEACHES
Ahipara
Destination Northland
BAYLYS BEACH - Is your gateway to Ripiro Beach:New Zealand’s longest driveable beach, and at 107km, longer than its more famous Ninety Mile Beach cousin. The rips are powerful and better suited to surfers than swimmers, but it’s brilliant for long walks and sunset picnics in the dunes.
PAHI - On the Kaipara Harbour, a short drive from Matakohe, this small settlement has a delightful swimming beach and campground by the water.
AHIPARA - This unspoiled sandy beach is at the southern end of Ninety Mile Beach and is best known for surfing, fishing and incredible sunsets. It’s also ideal for invigorating walks, land yachting and shellfish gathering.
ŌMAPERE - Together with its neighbour, Ōpononi, this harbour beach provides shelter, shade and deep water swimming for confident, careful swimmers.
TĀNE HAHUTA
Tāne Mahuta
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Your journey down the west coast takes you through Waipōua Forest, an impressive swathe of protected native forest that is home to New Zealand’s largest living kauri tree – TĀNE MAHUTA, ‘LORD OF THE FOREST’. This imposing giant has a 13.77m girth, a trunk height of 17.68m and a total height of 51.5m. Tāne Mahuta’s nearest challenger is TE MATUA NGĀHERE, ‘FATHER OF THE FOREST’. Due to the threat of kauri dieback disease, keep to the tracks, stay away from kauri tree roots and clean your gear before and after visiting. To check the track is open beforehand, go to www.doc.govt.nz
Trounson Kauri Park
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KAURI LEGACY
There are only a few pockets of kauri left now. Northland was built on the milling of the valuable timber and the digging of the gum for varnish in the 19th century. Magnificent kauri still rule in WAIPŌUA FOREST north of Dargaville and, closer to the town, in TROUNSON KAURI PARK. Having met kauri face to face, head to MATAKOHE KAURI MUSEUM to learn the history of this incredible and impressive tree.
NORTHLAND HERITAGE - MUST-DO'S
Motukaraka Point Catholic Church, Kohukohu
Northland Tourism
> Clendon House
> Masonic Hotel
> Methodist church
> Rāwene courthouse
> Kohukohu ferry
> Motukaraka Catholic Church
Rāwene Wharf
Northland Tourism
MĀNGUNGU - This house on the shores of the Hokianga Harbour, 3km from Hōreke,was built in 1838-1839 for the Reverend Nathaniel Turner.The largest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi took place here and that event is remembered each year on February 12 – festivities that all are welcome to – but visitors can tour the house and grounds all year round.
CLENDON HOUSE - This charming home in Rāwene was built for Captain James Clendon, the Chairman of New Zealand’s first bank and the first United States Consul in this country. Now owned by Heritage New Zealand and open to visitors, it provides fascinating insight into early colonial history.
Clendon House entrance
David Kirkland
ARAI TE URU RESERVE - At the south head of the Hokianga Harbour with expansive views of the coast and across to the famous sand dunes is this hugely significant historic site.It marks the first landing of Kupe, Māori settlement of the area and European influence. Remnants of the signal station which guided ships across the harbour entrance, which closed in 1951, can still be seen.
SIDE TRIP to KAI IWI LAKES
FROM DARGAVILLE 35KM, 30MIN - It’s a detour of 11km from SH 12 between Hokianga and Dargaville to see Kai Iwi Lakes and it’s a detour well worth taking.
Kai Iwi Lakes
Destination Northland
SPEND A DAY OR TWO - These dune lakes are like nothing else. They’re very deep but rimmed with warm,shallow water making them ideal for swimming. Their white-sand beaches are perfect for sunbathing. The three lakes are within the wide green expanse of the 538ha Taharoa Domain, where you can camp or just visit for the day. It really is an extraordinary spot.
ON THE WATER - Bring your kayaks, windsurfing boards,boats and water skis, even your fishing and diving gear. As well as rainbow trout, there are kōura, crabs and freshwater mussels in the lakes.
ON THE LAND - Satisfying activity options include cycling or hiking around the lake perimeters; there is an extensive walking track system within Taharoa Domain. The lakes are just 2.5km from the Tasman Sea and you can walk to the coast on a walkway that accesses an adjoining farm property. Once you have completed your hike or your cycling adventure, it’s back to the lakes for a dip.
VISIONS OF THE PAST
Tokatoka Scenic Reserve Track
Northland Tourism
MATAKOHE - Built on the banks of the Matakohe River, this settlement is probably best known for its excellent museum dedicated to the history of kauri. It tells stories of the pioneer settlers of the area through the theme of kauri, with high-quality displays and elements of surprise that create an exceptionally fun experience for visitors of all ages.
DARGAVILLE MUSEUM - Overlooking the township with views across the Northern Wairoa River, the Dargaville Museum Te Whare Taonga o Tunatahi is a genuine treasure trove of the region’s history. From around 1880 to early 1900, Dargaville was the country’s busiest port so, along with kauri industry history, there is a wealth of marine history at the museum.
KAIPARA HARBOUR - This shallow harbour is, surprisingly, one of the largest in the world, with over 400 square kilometres exposed as mudflats and sandflats at low tide. Its heyday was during the kauri boom. These days, it’s home to kayaks, fishing charters, birdwatching and cruises between Dargaville and Helensville.
Pōuto Lighthouse, Kaipara Harbour
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