Academy Art U News Special Graduation Fashion Show Preview
Style
Meet the Designers: Fashion students share their style inspiration in the run up to the Graduation Fashion Show. Page s-2. INSIDE Alumni Updates: See how our talented alumni have found their creative success in the fashion world. Page s-20. SHOP657: Find out about the unique collections from students and alumni in the School of Fashion’s reopened retail store. Page s-24. Teen Vogue Fashion University: Fashion insiders share career-launching tales and inspiring advice with fashion hopefuls. Page s-26. Take My Picture Thursday: This series showcases inventive styles and interesting personalities from people on the street. Page s-28.
page s-2 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Amanda Manashi By Mary McNeil Amanda Manashi, B.F.A. fashion design, was born in Houston, Texas, and grew up in Danville, Calif. In the summer of 2014, she interned with Global Brands Group, Marchesa Voyage, where she managed and completed line sheets and tech packs for knit and woven categories. Additionally, she assisted with fittings, product development, mood
Process images for part of Amanda Manashi’s collection. boards, concept illustrations and technical flats. For her senior collection, Manashi was inspired by Art Nouveau architect,
Hector Guimard. The juxtaposition of linear and organic shapes in his architecture was translated into pleats and voluminous
Amanda Manashi. Photo by Rob Curry. silhouettes in Manashi’s designs. She completed her collection using a mixture of silk, specifically men’s tie silk.
Amanda Manashi’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Amanda Manashi.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Remain open-minded, and let the process take its course.
Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: Zip-up hoodie. Q: What is your style motto? A: Simple and classic.
Mary McNeil is an online School of Fashion student.
Cherng-Hann Lee By Malcolm Thomas B.F.A. fashion design student Cherng-Hann Lee was born in Taipei, Taiwan. Lee was the 2012 winner of a $5,000 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund scholarship. Lee’s 2015 graduation collection is inspired by a medieval suit of arms and is made of fabrics ranging from lace to wool, embossed corduroy to cotton to create looks that give his garments both “an elegant and masculine feeling.”
Lee isn’t afraid to push the sartorial buttons of masculinity either, designing pieces like a blue velvet top paired with a lace-patterned gray wool pant and managing to make it look as laissez faire and modernly machismo as a leather biker jacket. Q: Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing, bag or designer piece would you buy right now? A: I want to buy a Dior shirt and an Orphan Bird
coat, I think, but I want to make garments for myself. Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: Big and loose hip-hop wear. Q: What is your style motto? A: Don’t just wear clothes, wear your attitude.
Cherng-Hann Lee’s moodboards. Courtesy of Cherng-Hann Lee.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Cherng-Hann Lee’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Cherng-Hann Lee.
B.F.A. fashion design student Cherng-Hann Lee. Photo by Rob Curry.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-3
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Yunseon Kim and Carmen X Liu By Faye Harris Yunseon Kim was born in Daegu, South Korea. After completing high school, she moved to San Francisco to pursue fashion design at Academy of Art University. Kim collaborated on her collection with B.F.A. jewelry and metal arts design student, Carmen X Liu. Liu was born in China and grew up in Vancouver, Canada, where she gained
a B.F.A. in fine arts before moving to San Francisco to continue her design education in jewelry and metal arts at the Academy. Liu won Best of Show at the Academy’s 2013 Undergraduate Jewelry and Metal Arts Award Show and was a first place winner in 2014. For her graduation collection, Kim drew inspiration from the shape and silhouettes of traditional Korean dress,
Left: Yunseon Kim. Right: Carmen X Liu. Photos by Rob Curry. hanbok, which is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines. To accent Kim’s garments, Liu created a collection of elegant and brightly colored costume jewelry pieces. She depicts organic and geometric shapes, using harmonious groupings of colors, such as varying shades of blues and greens to create unique, statement artworks. Color is the most important aspect of her work; she uses color to express the emotion behind the pieces, their vibrancy brings them to life. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? Carmen X Liu: Keep the inspiration flowing. Never stop thinking of new ideas and once you have it write it down in your journal. Q: What are your plans after graduation? CXL: Looking for internships and eventually set up
Carmen X Liu’s jewelry collection process. my own studio. Q: What is your dream job? CXL: Jewelry designer. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? Yunseon Kim: Come to school early and stay longer than your classmates. Be the first person [to] come to school and last person to leave.
Carmen X Liu’s jewelry collection illustration.
Yunseon Kim’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Yunseon Kim.
Q: What is your style motto? YK: Sometimes nothing is better than too much. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? YK: The first time I saw a model walk in a garment that I made.
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-4 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Damien Chandra By Faye Harris Damien Chandra, B.F.A. fashion design, was born in Jakarta, Indonesia. After completing high school in Indonesia, Chandra went on to become a design assistant for Danjyo Hiyoji wom-
enswear, before moving to San Francisco to pursue fashion design at Academy of Art University. Chandra’s graduation collection is inspired by the work of figurative sculptor Willy Verginer. Verginer employs techniques of color dipping,
Damien Chandra’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Damien Chandra.
Damien Chandra. Photo by Rob Curry.
texture change and color blocking to cut up his sculptures in unexpected places, giving them a surreal quality. Taking a page from Verginer’s signature style, Chandra used a mix of fabrics and colors to create a collection that gives the illusion of being cut apart and sewn back together. The collection is executed in wool fabrics in polka dot and herringbone patterns, laminated wool, acrylic faux fur and rayon
acetate. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: I would say when we had mini dance sessions every once in a while, especially during late nights spent working in the lab. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do a collection? A: Get yourself mentally ready for working late
nights for weeks and weeks. Try to also get help to finish up your collection. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: That would be Carine Roitfeld. She has a nonchalant attitude about the way she dresses. She’s edgy, cool and sexy at the same time.
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Dominic Tan By Malcolm Thomas B.F.A. fashion design student Dominic Tan hails from Singapore. Before coming to Academy of Art University, Tan spent a year in the Republic of Singapore Navy as a corporal. During this time Tan was also awarded the 2008 Arts & Craft Bronze Award by the Singapore Youth Festival. For two years, Tan was first a design intern and later a design consultant with several socially conscious design projects through
the non-profit organization Design For. He also assisted alumna Seth C. Olson with sewing, pattern manipulation and printing textiles for his 2014 graduation collection. That same year, Tan received an honorable mention from the CFDA and was awarded a summer internship at Yigal Azrouël in New York and made the Academy’s President’s Honor List. Using ice dyed cotton blends in stripes and checks, Tan’s graduation collection draws from his Singaporean heritage. “I
… looked for something embedded in our cultural wear and realized that we Singaporeans do not exactly have one. However, every one of us have had to wear uniforms at some point in our lives, so I looked to the kinds of uniforms Singaporeans might wear to develop this collection,” Tan explained. One example of Tan’s result? A beautiful red chevron stripe vest over a pink shirt with mini red and white striped overlap pant; after all, they say real men wear pink.
Dominic Tan. Photo by Rob Curry. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: My sister once told me it’s okay to not take life too seriously.
Dominic Tan’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Dominic Tan.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Going to Six Flags with my menswear friends during Spring Break for a really quick getaway.
Q: What is your style motto? A: Find your voice when it comes to designing or dressing. Sometimes the end result is super weird, but what’s the point of being like everyone else?
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-5
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Eleonore L. Santos and Anna Metzel By Faye Harris Eleonore L. Santos grew up in San Diego, Calif. After completing high school, she went on to attend Academy of Art University to fulfill her dream of being a fashion designer. Santos collaborated on her graduation collection with B.F.A. textile design student Anna Metzel. Metzel was born in Gurnee, Ill. Metzel first began her studies at the Academy in the graphic design program, but eventually found her calling, while working toward her B.F.A. in applied textile design. While studying for her undergraduate degree, Metzel has gained real world experience through a display design internship at San Francisco-based Pottery Barn Kids. Santos and Metzel’s graduate collection was inspired by Irish-born figurative painter Francis Bacon, who was recognized for his bold, emotionally charged and surrealist imagery. Santos and Metzel’s collaborative collection infuses garments with Bacon’s wild use of color and erratic brushstroke style to mimic the utter chaos shown in his paintings. With complex seaming and innovative pattern design, the cotton twill garments are technically complicated, yet the water color-like textiles ground the collection in
solidly beautiful, evocative territory. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? Eleonore L. Santos: “If you like it, do it. If you don’t like it, try it. You might like it.” - Rob Curry, associate director, 3-D design Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? ELS: The first time I had to draw a nude male model in my illustration class. It was so hard to concentrate. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? ELS: Treat school like it’s your job. Treat your teachers like they are paying you to do the work. Everything you do leading up to your senior year is practice for your collection. Level five is where it all counts. Q: What advice would you give to students who want to do collection? Anna Metzel: Make sure you have enough time to dedicate to yourself, but more importantly, don’t forget to have fun! Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? AM: Joséphine de La Baume, because she makes me feel like it’s okay to have messy hair and Gwen Stefani, because she knows how to have fun!
Eleonore L. Santos. Photo by Rob Curry. Q: What is your dream job? AM: My dream job is to
Eleonore L. Santos’ illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Eleonore L. Santos.
be a lace designer or a floriculturist.
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-6 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Emma Xueling Cui By Malcolm Thomas B.F.A. fashion design student Emma Xueling Cui grew up in Shenyang and Dalian, China. Cui has lent her fashion design skills to the Korean Art Festival, worked as a uniform de-
signer for Machine China and served as a textile designer for San Francisco streetwear brand Dashing Knight. Cui’s collection is an ode to the late British sculptor Lynn Chadwick. “My collection is a clash of
Emma Xueling Cui’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Emma Xueling Cui.
Emma Xueling Cui. Photo by Rob Curry.
interesting organic shapes with a modernistic feel. I wanted to [interpret] Lynn Chadwick’s idea of showing movement and fluidity through the use of rib knits and curvy cuts. He used bronze and other heavy materials; in contrast, I wanted the collection to move freely,” Cui said.
Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: You must do what scares you, because it will pull out the best [in] you. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: The most memorable year was the collection year, because I got to know my friends better. We
Fei Lin By Malcolm Thomas B.F.A. fashion design student Fei Lin grew up in Fuzhou, Fujian, China. Before coming to Academy of Art University, Lin interned as a design assistant at “He” Fashion Studio in China. During her time at the Academy, Lin has gained industry experience through her roles as a design and patternmaking assistant at San Franciscobased Azadeh Couture and as a sewing assistant at the
Academy. Lin’s graduation menswear collection draws on the work of Dutch handbag designer Ilvy Jacobs, whose signature origami brown paper bags inspired Lin with their shape and modern design. Leather, cotton twill and double knit jersey encapsulate Lin’s collection, which consists of looks such as a gunmetal leather coat with grey short pants. Q: What is the best advice
Fei Lin’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Fei Lin.
you have ever received? A: If you like it, do it. If you don’t like it, do it until you like it. Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: Nothing. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Anyone can be my inspiration.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Fei Lin. Photo by Rob Curry.
stayed up all day and night at the studio and had fun working hard. Q: Which talent would you most like to have? A: I wish I could play the cello like Yo-Yo Ma.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-7
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Gaia Giladi By Ashlin Randolph Gaia Giladi, B.F.A. fashion design, was born in Los Angeles, Calif., and grew up in Irvine. In 2014, Giladi interned with Sausalito-based brand Gr. Dano, where she worked directly with the designer Jill
Giordano, 2004 B.F.A. fashion design alumna. Giladi also assisted Academy of Art University MFA alumni Arijana Kajdić and Jaci Hodges in pattern making, garment construction and beading for their Fall 2014 New York Fashion Week collections.
Gaia Giladi’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Gaia Giladi. For her senior collection, Giladi used cotton, polyester, rayon and plastic fabrics. Skate parks were the inspiration for her collection, which features “shapes and dimensions [that are evocative of] the ramps and half pipes that are found in skate parks.” Giladi also used 3-D lenticular printed materials as a means to capture movement and a selection of different images within her pieces. Giladi paired the visually stunning lenticular materials with a
Gaia Giladi. Photo by Rob Curry.
new textile she created by seaming together a variety of black and white striped fabrics to create her own striped fabric. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: If you don’t like it, try it. You might like it. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Be open minded to change and try all suggestions given to you by your
instructors. Experimenting will be worth the extra time, because you never know what will come of it. Q: Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing, bag or designer item would you buy right now? A: These amazing Acne sandals I just saw on Pinterest!
Ashlin Randolph is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Gisel Ko By Malcolm Thomas Fluent in Korean, Spanish and English, B.F.A. knitwear design student Gisel Ko, who grew up in Monterrey, N.L. Mexico, shares the unique heritage of being both South Korean and Mexican. In 2014, Ko was a CFDA Scholarship Competition nominee. One of her designs was also featured in a “Child of the Stars” web editorial for Chasseur Magazine.
While browsing an art exhibition in Korea, Ko was struck by paintings of a Korean girl in traditional dress playing sports. One painting in particular, which pictured a girl skiing, inspired Ko’s graduation collection. “I connected with sportswear and skiwear, taking a sporty and masculine look from skiwear and [adding] a feminine touch from the Korean traditional dress,” she explained. Ko’s collection features
hand-knitted items such as a floral bomber jacket and a jacquard sweater. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Practice is the mother of skill. Our knitwear lab technician used to tell us that all the time. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Definitely know and understand that you have to commit yourself
Gisel Ko. Photo by Rob Curry. completely. Also, as you move forward, be brave enough to ask for help. It’s really tough to think that you’re standing alone.
Gisel Ko’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Gisel Ko.
Q: What is your greatest style regret?
A: Not having collected enough sweaters and denim jackets from vintage shops.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-8 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim By Faye Harris Gyuwon Jeong was born in Seoul, South Korea. After completing high school in Korea, she attended Tokyo Mode Gakuen College of Fashion in Japan, where she competed in the Freshman Fashion Show Competition, winning an award for fashion show directing. Jeong then moved to San Francisco to continue her studies in B.F.A. menswear fashion design at Academy of Art University. Jeong collaborated on her graduation collection
with B.F.A. textile design student Jimin A Kim. Kim was born in Seoul, South Korea. After completing high school, he went on to own a custom t-shirt menswear store named AKim & S in Seoul from 2006-2009. Kim then moved to Reno, Nev., where he earned his associate degree from UNR, before pursuing his B.F.A. in textile design from the Academy. Jeong’s designs were inspired by the Mexican Cholombian and South African Ndebele tribes, particularly the eccentric
Left: Gyuwon Jeong. Right: Jimin A. Kim. Photos by Rob Curry. haircuts and non-proportional clothing that are customary in both tribes. Her collection consists of oversized silhouettes executed in jersey and rib knit fabrics, with cotton and polyester braided piping; the latter evokes the feeling of the solid copper and brass neck rings worn by the Ndebele tribe. To complement Jeong’s silhouettes, Kim’s textile designs were inspired by African tribal prints and the evident brush strokes seen in many mural arts. Kim wanted to use a variety of colors along with unusual and unexpected patterns that reveal multicultural influences. Q: What is your greatest style regret? Gyuwon Jeong: Morning class fashion (my outfit when I have morning class). Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion?
Jeong and Kim’s graduate collection mood board. GJ: Meeting the menswear design family in our school. Our class is small, so we are always together. Q: What is your dream job? GJ: Creative designer. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? Jimin A Kim: What design is without effort, is in general seeing without pleasure. Q: Who are your favorite
fashion icons and why? JK: Marcelo Burlon and Henrik Vibskov are my idols. They are especially strong in the menswear textile and graphic design fields. Q: What is your dream job? JK: I’m going to be a fashion textile designer, art director.
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Jeong and Kim’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Gyuwon Jeong and Jimin A. Kim.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-9
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Karina Garcia and Mariana Pazos By Malcolm Thomas A double major in B.F.A. fashion design and B.F.A. fine art, Karina Garcia is preparing for her graduation collection in collaboration with B.F.A. textile designer Mariana Pazos. While simultaneously developing a business foundation for her jewelry line, Garcia claims the endeavor has opened her eyes to the grueling amount of work involved, however she is happy to do it. After all, hard work is no stranger to the Mexican born Garcia, who previously completed a two-year fashion design program in her native country. In 2009, her textile prints were selected for the 2009 Academy of Art University Spring Show. In 2014, Garcia was chosen to participate in the Joe’s Blackbook Design Competition, a scholarship program awarded to the best in American student design. In addition, Garcia has also done styling for Ford Models with photography alumna Isabella Bejarano and designed garments for clients. Inspired by Georgia O’Keefe, Pearl Harbor and World War II uniforms, Garcia and Pazos’ collection consists of printed cotton fabrics, midnight navy light wool and silk charmeuse. Half-printed
cotton and navy blue lightweight wool long sleeveless tops with exaggerated pockets matched with low waisted semi-fitted pants are, “one of the things that make this collection… unique,” said Garcia. “The color combination [of] all the prints have a Hawaiian feeling, and they are placed in order to project two faces in the garments. All front faces of the garments are printed with a hint of navy [in the front and on the back] … the hint of color makes this collection half dark and half printed.” Q: What is your style motto? A: Blue jeans and a leather jacket. Q: What talent would you most like to have? A: To sing. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: [Cristóbal] Balenciaga was one of the most inspiring designers of all times. [The house’s] collections are always clean and elegant. B.F.A. textile design student Mariana Pazos was born in Chihuahua, Mexico and graduated from ITESM (Monterrey Institute of Technology and Higher Education) high school in 2008. An
Left: Karina Garcia. Right: Mariana Pazos. Photos by Rob Curry. Urban Knight, Pazos has won numerous awards for her athletic endeavors at the Academy, including the Division 2 Athletics Directors Association Academic Achievement Award for the 2012-2013 and 2013-2014 academic years. Pazos also made the Pac West All-Academic Team for both the 20122013 and 2013-2014 academic years. She has been a member of the Academy’s women’s golf team as well as a Student Athletic Advisory Committee Women’s Golf Representative. For the 2013-2014 academic year, Pazos also made the President’s List for having a GPA higher than 3.9. Pazos’ textile designs for Garcia’s Georgia O’Keeffe, Pearl Harbor and World War II inspiration consists of three
prints in 12 colorways that transition from bright to dark. Pazos looked to the tropics and bright colors of Hawaii and the darkness of World War II for design inspiration. Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: Thinking I could pull off orange curly hair.
Karina Garcia and Mariana Pazos’ illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Karina Garcia and Mariana Pazos.
Q: Which items in your closet do you most use? A: My Nike running shoes Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Everyday people I pass on the street.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-10 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Jc Munoz By Faye Harris Jc Munoz, B.F.A. fashion design, was born in Monterey, Calif. After completing high school in his hometown of Austin, Texas, Munoz went on to become an assistant designer for Punky Couture in 2012 and Abercrombie & Fitch in 2014. Munoz’s industry
recognitions include being named as a finalist for sustainability in design by the Royal Society of Arts in 2015 as well having his prints featured in the Fashionsnoops.com Textile Competition in Spring 2015. Munoz’s graduation collection was inspired by aviation, specifically the
Jc Munoz’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Jc Munoz.
Jc Munoz, B.F.A. fashion design. Photo by Rob Curry.
beauty of fighter jets as they fluidly move through the air. The silhouettes of his designs mimic the curves and aerodynamic shapes of F-16 and B-2 fighter jets. Munoz’s collection features his own textiles, as well as material he made by piecing together over 300 felt stripes. The collection includes ombre printed sweaters, dresses and pants overlaid with thermal insulated, flame retardant and eco-friendly
material and paired with contrasting white silks and pink cotton denim. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Have the courage to live a life true to yourself, not the life others expect of you. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Love what you create. Q: What is your style
motto? A: All black everything. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Yohji Yamamoto because of his modern and elegant style and Alexander McQueen for his ability to push boundaries while staying true to himself.
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Keith Gunning By Faye Harris Keith Gunning, B.F.A. fashion design, was born in Galway, Ireland. He grew up in Calgary, Canada, where he worked as a sales assistant at Club Monaco. He then went on to earn his first degree in liberal arts from Acadia University before moving to San Francisco to pursue fashion design at Academy of Art University. Gunning has since worked as a construction draping and flat pattern teacher’s aide at the Academy in 2011, an intern at Smith Brand Bow Ties in 2012 and most recently, as a sales assistant for Sandro Paris at Bloomingdales.
Gunning’s graduate collection, made entirely of neoprene, was heavily inspired by the legendary London-based artist, Leigh Bowery, who has influenced artists like Alexander McQueen, Lucian Freud, Boy George and Lady Gaga. He was known for his flamboyant designs and his ability to cause a reaction. This is what led Gunning to create a brightly colored collection of neoprene dresses, draped kimonos and jackets using cable ties, which were attached to rope, spray-painted and sewn into each individual seam.
Keith Gunning’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Keith Gunning.
Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Probably all of the crazy late nights working at Polk Street until 11 pm. We would play ridiculously loud music in the fifth floor studios and danced when we cut patterns or ironed muslin samples. There was a ton of work being done, but there was also a ton of laughter. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: You need to be open to change and criticism, and you need to be able to work incredibly hard. It’s definitely difficult. You’re
Keith Gunning. Photo by Rob Curry. in a constant state of uncertainty, but you need to be confident in your work. It’s not an easy process at all, but if you’re passionate about your work then it will be right for you.
nap. Then I am off to Los Angeles for the summer to intern with BCBG Max Azria in their eveningwear department before moving to Paris at the end of the year.
Q: What are your plans after graduation? A: A few months ago I wouldn’t know how to answer this question. Thankfully in the past month, several opportunities have come my way. Directly after school finishes, I will be getting myself a drink and taking a long
Gunning was granted a place in the Academy’s French Exchange Scholarship Program and will be studying at Studio Berçot in Paris beginning September 2015.
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-11
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Lauren Giovanna Nypaver By Malcolm Thomas Born in Boulder and raised in Colorado, B.F.A. fashion design student Lauren Giovanna Nypaver graduated from Loveland High School in 2006, where soon after she was forced to make the difficult choice between financial stability versus art.
Nypaver chose art, by any means necessary. From waiting tables, teaching skiing to teaching English in Prague, Nypaver made it happen to finance her dreams of becoming a fashion designer. In 2012, she was part of the technical team at Marmot, where she helped with fit testing, garment wear and pattern
Lauren Giovanna Nypaver. Photo by Rob Curry.
grading. In 2014, Nypaver became a design intern at San Francisco-based messenger bag company, Timbuk2. The journey has been long, but Nypaver is now on the heels of premiering her collection this month. Declaring her collection a “love letter to the Colorado Rocky Mountains,” Nypaver’s pieces incorporate re-purposed camping tents such as a hand painted silk and black mesh “Hooligan” two-person zipper gown over a hand painted silk “Bianca” jumpsuit. Photos of lichen (a composite organism found in the forest) taken from Nypaver’s summer hikes were her textile inspiration. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Only do it if you have something to prove to yourself and if you are able to believe in yourself and your designs when no one else does.
Lauren Giovanna Nypaver’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Lauren Giovanna Nypaver.
Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: Not being born in a different century. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Holden Caulfield (from J.D. Salinger’s “Catcher in the Rye”) because he can spot phonies; and my Great Grandma Joy, because even in her ‘90s, she would dress up for company; red lips, ciggy in hand [and] a Yankees game on the TV. She would always offer us nuts and individually wrapped hard candies in crystal trays when my
sisters and I would visit her as small children. After her death, all her things were stored in a boxcar. Dresses with matching gloves, shoes and hats all in boxes with fancy labels and tissue paper, dance cards, costume jewelry, marbles … a lifetime of style no one stopped me from playing dress up with. [It] inspired my earliest ideas of what fashion meant to me.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Linka Rowland By Malcolm Thomas North of San Francisco lays the beautiful coastal town of Mendocino. This is where B.F.A. fashion design student Linka Rowland grew up, graduating from Mendocino High School in 2000. Since then, Rowland has lent her time as a special events coordinator and venue designer for various local Mendocino events. In addition to receiving her fashion education from Academy of Art University in 2013,
Rowland also attended private pattern-making and construction classes with Academy instructor and San Francisco-based luxury designer Julia Panciroli. Currently working on her collection for the graduation fashion show this month, Rowland’s wool, leather, neoprene, rabbit, Tibetan lamb and kid lamb fur garments are nothing short of lush. Her garments are embellished with “thousands” of white, pink, orange, yellow and black rabbit foot key
chains. Inspired by the oversized silhouette and a new interpretation of fringe, Rowland’s girl is no wallflower. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Trust the process. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Illustration classes with Dale Dombrowski; it’s where I remember first really connecting to my time here.
Linka Rowland. Photo by Rob Curry.
Linka Rowland’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Linka Rowland.
Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: Not finding fashion sooner. I never grew up wanting to pursue fashion. I had no idea this is where I would end up. But I’m really happy. Fashion does something for my soul
that nothing else does. I just think of all the years I spent not thinking about style, and I regret the time lost.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-12 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Livia Bianda By Malcolm Thomas B.F.A. fashion design student Livia Bianda was born and raised in Jakarta, Indonesia. While in high school, Bianda was named South East Youth Softball Tournament Champion in 2008 and 2009. Upon moving to California, Bianda attended community college in Cupertino before
enrolling at Academy of Art University to pursue her love of fashion. Since then, she has immersed herself in the design world, serving as the menswear intern at Alexander Wang in New York during the summer of 2014, assisting the 2014 Academy seniors with their graduation collections and contributing to the design development
Livia Bianda’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Livia Bianda.
Livia Bianda. Photo by Rob Curry.
process and assisting in styling menswear looks as a part of the design team for the Indonesia Day festival in San Francisco. In March 2014, Bianda’s work was chosen by the Academy to participate in the first round of the Joe’s Blackbook Design Competition in New York. Bianda’s lycra, mesh, pinstripe wool and pinstripe cotton graduation collection was inspired by the uniforms and exaggerated silhouettes seen on football players. What’s even cooler than Bianda’s
mesh pullover t-shirts and two-layered pants are the built-in backpacks and fanny packs that adorn her garments. However, innovation comes at a cost; Bianda warns to be prepared to “fully commit to work on your collection, and to willingly spend most of your senior year in the lab.” Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Take it one step at a time. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the
School of Fashion? A: Having lunch and dinner with my fellow creative and talented classmates after going through nonstop drafting, cutting and sewing all day. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Raf Simons for his radical menswear fashion and his own way of interpreting traditional menswear structures.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Lucky Jiang By Faye Harris Lucky Jiang, B.F.A. fashion design, was born in Dandong, Liaoning Province, China. After completing high school in China, Jiang moved to San Francisco to pursue fashion design at Academy of Art University. She has since worked as a fashion and technical design intern for 440 Brannan
Lucky Jiang. Photo by Rob Curry.
Studio in San Francisco and Patrik Ervell in New York. Her impressive list of awards include: Council of Fashion Designers of America Menswear Award, Clara Hancox Award for Menswear Design, Joe’s Blackbook Menswear Design Finalist and Teen Vogue/Design Council of Fashion Designers of America Menswear Award. Jiang’s graduate
Lucky Jiang’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Lucky Jiang. menswear collection was inspired by the oversized shape and curvature of an astronaut’s spacesuit. She used a curve-cutting technique on navy, baby blue and pink herringbone wools, which were pieced together using strips of leather. The contrast of the binding material against the soft wool fabric simulates the piping found inside spacesuits, which protects against temperature extremities. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Don’t be afraid to fail. Keep trying and never give up, you will find the right way in the end!
Lucky Jiang’s graduation collection mood board. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Doing the fashion show last year with my menswear designer friends. We encouraged each other, helped each other and shared both our happiness and tears.
Q: What is your style motto? A: Never blind follow trends, follow your style.
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-13
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga By Mary McNeil Lauren Lusby, B.F.A. textile design, was born and raised in Houston, Texas. She recently received the Fashion Snoops 2015 Recognized Designer award and won the Surtex 2015 award. For her collection, Lusby hand embroidered and created beading brushstrokes on wool, raw silk
and mesh-neoprene. She collaborated with fashion design student Nomin Gantulga. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: This is a field that will never die, no matter what others will say. Follow always your heart and senses, they’re the best friends one can have. There’s no such
a thing about knowing it all, that’s a misconception. There’s always something new waiting for you at the opening of your door every morning, take it and make good use of it. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Do NOT forget to HAVE FUN! Q: Which talent would you most like to have? A: WILD Animal Tamer!
Lauren Lusby. Photo by Rob Curry.
Nomin Gantulga, B.F.A. fashion design, was born in Prague, Czech Republic and raised in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. In Mongolia, she interned with Goyo Cashmere. In 2015, Gantulga was a Royal Society of Arts finalist, and in 2014, she was honored on the President’s List. Collaborating with Lusby, Gantulga created a collection in cotton, wool blends and raw silk. She was inspired by the Japanese photographer Araki, flower petals and
Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Lauren Lusby and Nomin Gantulga.
a Japanese rope tying art called Shibari. “Initially, the collection strips down the world’s objectification of women, making them look strong within this complexity,” said Gantulga. “Araki tied the women down, and I made them run by breaking the ties around them.” Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: I cherish the memories of spending everyday from 8:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. with my fellow classmates. They probably don’t know how inspiring and strong they are. You guys rock!
Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: I didn’t have a chance to look like a fashion designer my whole senior year. I regret wearing all black and gloomy with messy hair and makeup. Q: What is your dream job? A: My dream job is to do what makes other people happy and fulfilled, or at least contribute to the society. Of course, it has to be related with my artistic nature.
Mary McNeil is an online School of Fashion student.
Novi Utami By Malcolm Thomas Novi Utami, 2014 CFDA Liz Claiborne Design Scholarship Excellence in Technical Design winner, was born and raised in Indonesia. In 2010, Utami moved from her home country to Mesa, Ariz., to attend community college and participate in Scottsdale Fashion Week. In 2013, Utami took part in the Where Hip Hop Meets
Couture fashion show in San Francisco, where she is currently enrolled as a B.F.A. fashion design student at Academy of Art University. Utami’s silk charmeuse, cotton twill, lace, organza, wool suiting and neoprint collection is inspired by Japanese origami artist Yuko Nishimura and the war in Gaza. This unlikely combination allows her to marry the “masculinity of military
clothing with the precision of delicate origami,” Utami explained. “The Japanese calligraphy character for the word origami can actually be translated as ‘pray,’ therefore, the collection is not only about the mix of masculinity and femininity, but also the inner peace and conflict that happens within us.” Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Never limit yourself
Novi Utami. Photo by Rob Curry.
Novi Utami’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Novi Utami.
A: A Valentino Couture gown.
when you are designing or creating something. Just because it’s not something that you would be interested in does not mean you can’t make your own best version.
Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: All of the years during high school.
Q: Ignoring the cost, what item of clothing, bag or designer would you buy right now?
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-14 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-15
graduation fashion show
2 015
Photo by Isabella Bejarano, MFA Photography (May 2013)
3:00 pm – Thursday, May 14, 2015
all students welcome
1142 Van Ness Avenue, San Francisco, California 94109 Looping shuttles will be provided beginning at 2:00 pm from 625 Polk, 180 New Montgomery and Northpoint
page s-16 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Patricia Wiljaya By Jazelle Prado Patricia Wijaya, B.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Jakarta, Indonesia, and now resides in Oakland, Calif. Before pursuing her degree in the States, Wijaya worked as an assistant for Indonesian designers Itang Yunasz and Susan Budihardjo. Prior
to working on her 2015 graduation collection, in 2014, Wijaya contributed her beading design efforts to a graduating senior’s final collection. Wijaya’s family history of scoliosis has been a source of inspiration for the collection. Scoliosis is represented through the center-curved seams on
Patricia Wiljaya’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Patricia Wiljaya.
Patricia Wiljaya. Photo by Rob Curry.
both the front and back of each garment. The hole cutouts on every piece represent the shapes of a back brace similar to the one her sister had to wear in childhood. Wijaya has also incorporated elements of sportswear—to represent her love of playing sports— with her use of denim throughout the collection. Wijaya has taken no easy route, as she’s implemented an intricate and traditional technique with hand
beading detailing in her asymmetrical designs. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do a collection? A: Give it your all, do it wholeheartedly, do not give up and try your best. Manage your time wisely, and make going to school your full time job. Lastly, listen to your instructors; they give the best insight. Q: Who are your favorite
fashion icons and why? A: Biyan; he has a classy and feminine style for women of all ages. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Try your best in everything you do. Most importantly, be on time.
Jazelle Prado is a fashion journalism student.
Ruone Yan By Mary McNeil Ruone Yan, B.F.A. menswear design, was born and raised in Chongqing, China. Yan created his collection with canvas that he dyed with oolong tea. He was inspired by the Cephalotus, also known
as the Venus flytrap. He wanted to capture the idea of the insects being trapped within the Cephalotus. “Outside, the insects are vulnerable to other elements of danger even though they are being slowly ingested,” said Yan. “So are the insects safe or in
Ruone Yan’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Ruone Yan.
danger within the body of the plant?” Q: What is your greatest style regret? A: I stopped wearing Abercrombie & Fitch because someone opened my eyes. Q: Which items in your
closet do you most use? A: My black coat. Q: What is your dream job? A: To be a menswear designer and to have my own brand.
Mary McNeil is an online School of Fashion student.
Ruone Yan. Photo by Rob Curry.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-17
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Shuman Yao By Malcolm Thomas B.F.A. fashion design student Shuman Yao was born in Shijiazhuang, Hebei, China and grew up in Beijing. She received her first bachelor’s degree in character makeup design. Yao was also a former costume designer at China’s National Grand Theatre (National Center
for the Performing Arts) and styling assistant at Harpers Bazaar China. She was the 2009 recipient of the Central Academy of Drama’s Best Makeup Award for Fashion Makeup. Yao’s graduation collection, constructed from rubber PVC, wool cashmere, polyester and denim, is inspired by
Shuman Yao’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Shuman Yao. “Anachronox,” a sci-fi video game about the salvation of a lowly artificial planet and its universe. “I took the shape of the spacecraft and the details of the space suit to create the silhouette shapes. The layer details and the closure are inspired by Saturn’s rings,” Yao said. Q: What is your style motto? A: Let fabric sculpt the shape.
Shuman Yao. Photo by Rob Curry.
Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why?
Shuman Yao’s collection mood board. A: David Bowie, he has a keen fashion [sense] and I love his style mash-up.
the woman who wants to wear a story.
Q: What is your dream job? A: To design garments for
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
Xun Li By Faye Harris Xun Li was born in Chongqing, China. Li has worked as a fashion intern for two flagship retail stores in China, Shang Xia in 2012 and Cai Lia in 2013. He then moved to San Francisco to pursue his passion for fashion design with an emphasis in menswear at Academy of Art University. His recognitions include being chosen as a finalist for CFDA’s Teen Vogue Competition in 2012.
Li’s graduation menswear collection is evocative of his source of inspiration, which were windows, translucent plastic sculptures and art that explores light and transparency. He used translucent and buff-rubber silicone fabrics as overlays on black shirts and pants made from cotton twill. The collection is accented with blue Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU) shirt collars, cuffs and fastenings for an ultra-modern feel.
Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? A: Creating a collection is a long and tough journey. You may have no time to hang out with your friends or even with your parents. However, when you see your own garments on the stage, it makes everything worth it. Q: Which items in your closet do you most use? A: My leather handbag from Saint Laurent. I keep
Xun Li. Photo by Rob Curry.
Xun Li’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Xun Li.
all of my fabric samples in it. I also put a sketchbook inside, in case if I have any inspiring ideas.
own brand or fashion business after I feel confident enough to work on my own as a designer.
Q: What are your plans after graduation? What is your dream job? A: I would like to work for a fashion design agency first and then open up my
Faye Harris is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-18 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Jeremy Vu, Justin Lei Wang and Lupita Ramirez
L–R: Jeremy Vu, Justin Lei Wang and Lupita Ramirez. Photos by Rob Curry. By Alexa Palacios For their 2015 graduation menswear collection, B.F.A. fashion designer Jeremy Vu, B.F.A. jewelry designer Justin Lei Wang and B.F.A. knitwear designer Lupita Ramirez have joined forces to create a stunning collaborative collection. Vu was born in San Jose, Calif., and raised in Santa Clara. While working toward his undergraduate degree, Vu worked as an alterations assistant at design powerhouse Rodarte, where he helped complete the Spring/ Summer 2012, Fall/Winter 2012 and Spring/Summer 2014 collections. Vu also interned with Bay Areabased designer and fellow Academy of Art University graduate Melissa Fleis in the spring of 2014. During his internship at Melissa Fleis, Vu assisted with fittings and alterations, pattern-making and sample construction. Ramirez was born and raised in Fortuna, Calif. With one of her top goals being to work as part of a design team, it’s no surprise that Ramirez is working alongside two designers to collaborate on a collection. Wang was born and raised in Harbin, China. Concurrent with his undergraduate studies, Wang has worked as a freelance jewelry designer, honing his experience in jewelry
and metal arts. Wang’s work has earned him recognition. In 2014, he won the third place Jewelry and Metal Arts Award at the Academy’s Spring Show. For their collaborative collection, which they have named “Truly Outrageous,” Vu, Ramirez and Wang took a stylistic page from the 1980s, specifically the film “Heathers” and the animated television show “Jem and the Holograms.” The wide-shouldered silhouettes are a clear nod to the decade, while the loud color palette and funky, mixed patterns evoke the rock star attitude captured in the animated television
series. Vu took additional inspiration from the music video for the song “Good Girl Freak Out,” by Double Duchess featuring Future People. By combining elements from the film, television show and music video, Vu created “a fun, full-on glam collection for the man who’s not afraid to stand out in a crowd.” Q: What is the best advice you ever received? Jeremy Vu: Have fun with it. If you’re not enjoying what you’re doing, it will show in the end. Q: What is your favorite memory about being in
Jeremy Vu’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Jeremy Vu.
the School of Fashion? Lupita Ramirez: When the heater system broke down in knitwear the December before last, and we had to finish our garments that weekend. We layered jacket[s] over sweater[s] on top [of] sweater[s] with beanies and scarves. We looked completely ridiculous running around trying to get through finals. Q: What advice would you give students who want to do collection? Justin Lei Wang: Be patient, learn to listen, don’t give up. Q: What is your greatest
style regret? JV: Pretty much all of 19951999 for me. Q: What is your dream job? LR: My dream job is to be a part of a great team that all have different views but together have the same vision. Q: Which talent would you most like to have? JLW: I would love to be able to play the violin!
Alexa Palacios is a B.F.A. fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-19
GRADUATION FASHION SHOW PREVIEW MEET THE DESIGNERS
Ye Kuang and Candy Hsinyu Chu By Malcolm Thomas B.F.A. fashion design student Ye Kuang was born and raised in Shanghai, China. Kuang was a former design intern at the storied And Re Walker design studio in New York City, where she helped the designer source fabrics and trims and assisted in pattern making and garment construction. Using neoprene, imitation leather and lace as her medium, Kuang took
inspiration from sculpture, Dutch architect Erick van Egeraat’s “Incineration Line in Roskilde” to be exact, for her collection. Looks like the short sleeve high collar neoprene top with 3-D pop-in detail and laser-cut holes, paired with leather shorts have a sculptural quality reminiscent of her inspiration. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Working with all my
friends and classmates in our last year, and struggling together almost everyday in school until it closed. Q: Which talent would you most like to have? A: Endless inspiration. Q: Who are your favorite fashion icons and why? A: Issey Miyake. He’s very good at transforming the sculpture into garments, which is also my design style. His technology-driven clothing designs make him a master in the fashion field. Kuang collaborated with M.F.A. jewelry design student Candy Hsinyu Chu for the jewelry portion of the collection. Chu was born and raised in Taipei, Taiwan, and earned her B.F.A. in fashion design from Academy of Art University in 2014 before undertaking master’s courses in jewelry design. She’s held assistant internship positions at San Francisco-based retailers Harputs and Margaret O’Leary and was the 2014 M.F.A. Director’s Choice as well as the M.F.A. Student Choice award winner at the Academy’s Spring Show. Inspired by “an acrylic series of Scandinavian interiors, furniture and architecture,” the color palette of Chu’s jewelry is reminiscent of “Nordic summers, rocky coastlines
Ye Kuang’s illustrated lineup. Courtesy of Ye Kuang.
Ye Kuang. Photo by Rob Curry. and pristine, untouched beaches.” Expertly crafted, each piece is strung together on vinyl tubing that’s designed to sit beautifully on the curves of the body. Q: What is the best advice you have ever received? A: Dutch-based [jeweler], Peter Hoogeboom [once said], “Take a workshop in a completely different design field or art technique. I think the most interesting works are to be found or made in
overlapping areas.” Q: What is your favorite memory of being in the School of Fashion? A: Working on a collection with design partners. We learned from each other. Q: What is your style motto? A: Elegant and simple.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-20 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
STYLE alumni update
Michelle Helene Grunberg By Malcolm Thomas With an eponymous New York City fashion label under her belt, Michelle Helene Grunberg is the designer behind Michelle Helene. A line of soberly chic wears at a contemporary price point. Grunberg is also a 2003 School of Fashion B.F.A. fashion design alumna. Twelve years after graduating from Academy of Art University, Grunberg talks inspiration, her Fall/Winter 2015 collection, shares candid advice about the travails of the fashion industry and tells us why “going to AAU really changed my life.” Q: Why the name Michelle Helene? A: Just keeping it simple. It’s my first and middle name. Q: Tell us about your collection. A: The collection is special to me because it is a reflection of who I am and the things that inspire me. I work to create designs that I hope will be accepted or seen as more or less timeless, while always trying to find new ways to convey a mood or tell a story. It’s easy to get caught up in just making something that’s aesthetically pleasing or that attracts attention, but it’s maybe most important to me, to focus on the communication and emotion [that goes into] every piece. My garments are handmade and on many of them, I’ve worked closely with my brother Alex, who is
a weaver living in Taos, New Mexico. We spend a lot of time exploring and learning different weaving techniques; sourcing materials that are more rare or unique; and finding new ways to translate it all into each season. Q: Where do you find inspiration? A: My designs are not rooted in one idea. They are based on evolving concepts and my inspiration comes from so many different places. I am fascinated by different cultures, subcultures and the quirks and oddities of day-to-day life that often go unnoticed, aren’t valued or are maybe even under-appreciated. I am constantly observing the world around me, and looking for subtle ways to weave the things I see into my designs. Q: What is next for you and your line for 2015? A: To continue to collaborate with great people and develop new ideas. I will also be looking to show my line a little bit more, as I’ve been hyper-focused on getting things to a point where I feel good about the quality and creativity of the pieces I am developing. I would like to spend more time sharing my designs and ideas with people and giving them a better idea of what the line is about. Q: What’s the funniest thing that’s happened recently in your business? A: To be honest, just starting
A look from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection of 2003 B.F.A. fashion design alumna, Michelle Helene Grunberg. Photo by 2014 M.F.A. photography alumna, Isabella Bejarano. a business altogether. It’s one thing to be a designer, it’s a whole other thing to run a business. I’ve been very fortunate to have the opportunity to establish a business that affords me the opportunity to do something that’s very personal to me. That said, I definitely don’t envision myself as a “business person,” but I’m applying the skills I’ve developed along the way and doing my best to embrace the role, so I can continue doing what I love.
A look from the Fall/Winter 2015 collection of 2003 B.F.A. fashion design alumna, Michelle Helene Grunberg. Photo by 2014 M.F.A. photography alumna, Isabella Bejarano.
Q: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion? A: Going to AAU really changed my life. I had some of the most inspirational teachers and I also made some life-long friends. My time here really challenged me in ways that made me push the boundaries of what I was capable of. But as far as my favorite memories, (academically speaking, of
course) they are of locking myself in the studio late at night and working through the early hours of the morning. It was a time to tune out the rest of the world, listen to my music, focus on the work and have fun. It always makes me smile when I think about it. Q: What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned? A: Dealing with some of the attitudes and personalities you encounter in the industry and learning not to take it so personally. Q: Any “insider information” from the fashion industry that you could share with fashion students today? A: The fashion industry is not easy, but don’t let it consume you. As a professional, create a vision, be observant and make goals for yourself along the way. As a person, stay humble, be willing, have the
confidence to be who you are and you will succeed. Always treat people fair and show respect. With some of the people out here, it isn’t always the easiest, but you will see in time that it pays off. Q: What advice would you give to students? A: Appreciate the opportunities that come your way and make the most of them. Utilize your teachers and resources at AAU as much as possible. Most of all work hard and always have fun in what you are doing. Visit: http://www.michellehelene.com. Follow Michelle on Instagram: @mh_michellehelene.
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
san francisco | academy of art university |
May 2015 volume 1 | page s-21
STYLE alumni update
Mingyu Du and Dan Dong By Malcolm Thomas Partners in business and in life, School of Fashion alumni Mingyu Du and Dan Dong credit Academy of Art University for being the catalyst that started their careers and their label 625 Lab, which is named after the School of Fashion’s Polk Street building. Now living and working in New York, the design duo share their upcoming plans for the rollout of 625 Lab and reminisce in the sweet nostalgia of fashion school life. Q: When did you graduate? Mingyu Du & Dan Dong: We graduated in December 2013. Q: How did you two meet? MD & DD: We met each other at school orientation in 2011 and then we became classmates and roommates. Q: Is it difficult being partners in business and life? MD & DD: Not at all. We have similar habits and hobbies. When we’re working together, we can always find something in common. We have the same goal. That’s the reason we’ve been living together and doing business together for more than four years. Even though we have different opinions, we always find a balance. Q: Why the name 625 Lab? MD & DD: One day, Ming bought fabrics from B&J [Fabrics], and a salesperson said,“Your brand sounds like a street name,” which is exactly what we wanted. 625 is the number of the School of Fashion building. We spent
most of our time there in the last three years. It was like a big magic lab for us, because we [got to] test out different fabrics and use them to make all kinds of garments. We were always full of inspiration, and a lot of good collections were born there. The number means what we paid, what we gained and what we are dreaming for. Scientists invent new techniques in labs, and we created our first line in the 625 Lab. Q: Are you selling your line in stores? MD & DD: Not yet. We are connecting with some stores in New York and will be selling them in August, but we are planning to sell our collection on our website soon. Q: Tell us about the fabrics, shapes and colors of your collection MD & DD: We prefer clean cutting lines and believe simplicity is powerful. About the choice of fabric, we choose high quality wool, cotton and fur. The fabric contacts with our skin directly, so we must ensure the comfort of fabric of our garments. We also took the textile class at school and we both loved it. We did a print and put it into our collection. Except for the print, we used lots of contrasting colors this season, such as black with gray, dark gray with light gray and navy with black. All these colors are very easy to style together. Wear your sneakers and grab your handbag, that’s it! Most of the shapes of this collection are boxy and
A look from the 625 Lab Fall/Winter 2015 lookbook. Courtesy of Mingyu Du and Dan Dong.
oversized, which is consistent with our design details, such as the pocket. We used straight lines and squares to make the pocket designs more interesting. We think interesting and fine details are more attractive and impressive. Q: What inspires you, and where do you find inspiration? MD & DD: One day, when we walked into our studio we saw a picture frame hanging in the pocket of a garment sample. It looked very interesting and also reminded me of the art works of artist Jean Spencer, [whose work] I had once seen. So we started to do research. We are always inspired by life. Modern art, music, travel, even a piece of folded paper. [Everything] inspires us a lot. We usually go to museums when we have time and there are lots of art fairs and exhibitions in NYC. Q: What is next for 2015? MD & DD: We are preparing the Spring/Summer 2016 collection for our brand.
Above and below: looks from the 625 Lab Fall/Winter 2015 lookbook. Courtesy of Mingyu Du and Dan Dong.
Q: What’s the funniest thing that’s happened recently in your business? MD & DD: After the collection came out, our friends came to our studio and said that our studio was more like a store. They couldn’t wait to try on [our pieces] and purchase them. Even though we haven’t started to sell them yet, we have already had more than 10 orders from our friends. We are so appreciative of their support. Q: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion? MD: I kind of miss those days staying up late to do projects. My favorite memory is when I was doing my collection in 2014. We ... all worked so hard and encouraged each other. Also, the teacher’s advice always helped me improve and still influences me now. DD: I’ll always remember that time my friends and I were working together in the basement of 625 Polk. We were so busy but enriched at the same time. I’m so lucky to have met Ming and other friends in AAU. My three years spent at AAU will be my best memories forever. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in New York Fashion Week? MD: The best moment I have ever had was being backstage to see my collection on the runway. I am also very excited to see so many talent[ed] AAU designers showing their collections at New York
Fashion Week every year! DD: I have seen the AAU shows at New York Fashion Week four times. So many excellent collections have been shown in Lincoln Center. I’m so proud I was one of those students. Q: What advice would you give to students? MD & DD: Make a to-do list before you go to bed, that will help make things more efficient the next day. Don’t always look at what others are doing and stop complaining that you didn’t have enough time. Be positive, find your advantages and maximize them. Keep practicing and
constantly learning. The process will make you ready for the challenges of the future. Opportunities will always open to prepared people. More importantly, you need to have someone to talk to and discuss everything with to get useful advice. Not too many designers can achieve their success without the help of their friends, teachers or business partners. Visit: http://www.625lab. com; Follow 625 Lab on Instagram: @625lab
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
page s-22 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
STYLE alumni update
Minh Tran By Malcolm Thomas School of Web Design + New Media 2014 graduate Minh Tran has never been afraid to speak his mind and follow his heart. With fervor, Tran realized early on in his college career that while he was not a fashion major, he had an unshakeable knack for the industry. A former Beyond the Front Row board member and closet fashion illustrator, Tran has been working backstage at New York Fashion Week every season since 2010 and spends his free time sketching the glamazons that drip from his colorful imagination. He sat down with the School of Fashion to talk life post graduation. Q: What have you been
doing since you graduated in December of 2014? A: I am currently the studio manager and in-house visual designer for a luxury fitness center specializing in mind, body and soul. Ascend Body clientele includes: fashion models, techies of San Francisco and working professionals around the Financial District. Q: What do you love about your job? A: What I love about my job is the fact that I can use my skills from new media to create promotional ads for the social media platform. Q: What is your average day like? A: My day consists of customer care, social media ads, photo shoots, reaching out to the
Fall 2014 B.F.A. Web Design + New Media alumnus Minh Tran. Courtesy of Minh Tran.
Illustrations by Minh Tran. Courtesy of Minh Tran.
community, brand marketing and yoga! Q: We love your illustrations; when did you realize that you loved to illustrate? A: I never knew that I could illustrate but have always had a passion for fashion. Being in the new media department, we were trained to be on the computer all the time. I decided to take an elective class in fashion illustration and my instructor noticed my drawing skills and ability to express myself through the brush – every stroke on the canvas or paper has a story to tell. Q: While you were at the Academy, you were a member of the fashion club, Beyond the Front Row. Tell us about your experiences with the club. Did it help you professionally? A: While I was in school, I joined Beyond the Front Row and later became a board member, which was one of the greatest experiences I have had. I learned the industry’s rules and protocols. Our mentor (and School of Fashion instructor) Hersha Steinbock taught me so much. Being on the board exposed me to many opportunities such as joining the School of Fashion directors, other club members and the featured fashion designers at New York Fashion Week (NYFW). I worked backstage at NYFW every season since 2010. Another great opportunity was working as a dresser with other Beyond the Front Row members at the Fall 2012
An illustration by Minh Tran. Courtesy of Minh Tran. Duckie Brown MBFW Show. Q: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion? A: My favorite memory would be running around campus trying to get things ready before the fashion shows, such as assisting on fittings and helping the models backstage. I miss having Beyond the Front Row board meetings in the Dior Café at 625 Polk Street where we would talk about our upcoming projects. Q: What was your biggest challenge as a student? A: The most challenging time was my last semester when I was preparing for my senior project review. Q: What was the hardest lesson you’ve learned? A: I am learning everyday, what I have realized now compared to then was the fact that no one thinks alike, and we have to understand people not understanding. I learned to speak my mind when I have a strong idea and stick to it. The School of Fashion taught me that.
Q: What advice would you give to students? A: I learned that you only have one chance to impress your employer. Don’t mess it up, just work hard! Be you! Stay strong and focus on your goal. Be adventurous and don’t be afraid to ask for help when you need it! Q: What are you currently obsessed with? A: I am currently obsessed with the idea of being a fashion illustrator (pens, feathers, paint and coal) and hopefully becoming a teacher one day. Q: What would people be surprised to learn about you? A: I am obsessed with Logo TV’s “RuPaul’s Drag Race” and dressed in drag on Halloween. Q: Favorite quote? A: “If you can’t love yourself, how can you love anyone else!?”
Malcolm Thomas is a fashion journalism student at Academy of Art University.
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STYLE alumni update
Sherise Eways
By Jeanie Walsh With her jewelry line She. Rise sold in over 60 stores nationwide, 2007 M.F.A. fashion design alumna Sherise Eways isn’t holding back when it comes to planning her future. Inspired by Eways’ interest in the inherent healing properties of natural materials, the She.Rise jewelry collection is a way for the designer to express her passion for freedom, individuality and femininity. “She.Rise is a line of handmade, healing, fashion forward bracelets made by me in collaboration with Swarovski Crystal International,” Eways said. “I use Swarovski Crystal, copper and Italian leather. The copper magnets are extremely strong and bearing on good health and circulation.” Eways explained the benefits that come from incorporating magnets and copper, “Studies have shown magnetic bracelets to have health benefits. With continued use, these include effects on physical and mental well being. Copper is an essential nutrient, playing a vital role in keeping bones, skin, brain, blood vessels and immune system strong and healthy.” What Eways had to say was inspirational, proving she’s more than just a talented designer; she’s also an exceptionally caring person. Find out how Eways finds time to give back during her jam-packed days and the advice she has to give to current students. Q: Why the name She.Rise? A: I’ve always enjoyed the playfulness of the way my name is spelled and the inspirational aspect of it. For me, it was a way to create a brand name with an optimistic association for myself and others.
Courtesy of She.Rise.
Q: Last year you were in over 60 stores nationwide; what are your retail plans for 2015? A: This year we are working on expanding throughout the Midwest and East Coast, interested in high-end boutiques and jewelry stores, mainly focusing on the small, well-curated, artisanal businesses. Q: Tell us about your collection. What prompted you to go into accessories? A: After graduating from AAU, I managed a Hayes Valley boutique for five years and began to study what our customer was purchasing. The brands that I noticed to have consistent and straightforward sell through were making accessories, so I was inspired to make samples and start wearing them. Q: You have had a relationship with Swarovski since using their crystals in your thesis collection for the Academy’s February 2008 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show. How did that come about? A: While in school, I worked as an assistant jewelry designer and was able to establish a relationship with the U.S. Swarovski Headquarters. I proposed a sponsorship and after meeting in person, they agreed to help me achieve my vision within the collection by sponsoring products for me to design with. Today, I am business partner with them promoting that my product is made with authentic Swarovski elements. Q: Where do you find inspiration? A: I tend to research just about everything under the sun. But most importantly, I love to research the relationship between technology and nature, because these two things are constantly in flux
2007 M.F.A. fashion design alumna, Sherise Eways. Courtesy of She.Rise. with each other so that there is a consistent communication of change, its fascinating. Like fashion is ever changing, I’m inspired by the evolution of things. This line of jewelry is especially inspired by freedom, strength and femininity. Q: What is next for you and your line for 2015? A: Slowly and steadily, I am branching out to make this a full accessory line. I have plenty of design ideas for leather goods, such as handbags, belts, as well as incorporating precious metals to increase the specialness of the She.Rise jewelry line. Q: What is the funniest thing that has happened recently in your business? A: My line began as a line of wrap bracelets connected by magnets. The magnets that I use are quite strong so I’ve received numerous photos from my customers of their magnets picking things up such as metal plated utensils! Q: When was the first time you recognized your interest in fashion? A: I began to sketch clothing at the age of six years old, and at that time, I was living with my grandfather, who was a tailor and pattern maker, so he began to see my sketches and make my clothes for me. I started going to first grade in some of my clothes that I drew and he custom made for me! I never lost touch with it, always sketching my way through school and eventually into the industry. Q: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion? A: At the time, the long hours and late nights of patternmaking and sewing seemed miserable, but that is what I miss the most ... learning how to work very hard on
Large cuffs collection. Courtesy of She.Rise. my vision and finally seeing an end result. All of that time reworking my projects really paid off. Especially the memory of working alongside such an amazing group of creative peers from all over the world, I made some of the greatest friends at the School of Fashion crunching late at night. Q: What is your favorite memory of being in New York Fashion Week? A: So many great memories, it’s hard to say. Somewhere in-between the final stages of accessorizing and finishing the look of my collection to the moment that I was backstage in the tents at Bryant Park. I recall one moment I was holding my breath and 15 minutes later exhaling with relief! Smiling to myself, thinking what an accomplishment! Q: What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned? A: I’ve learned that through the hardships of rejection, humility and the exhaustion of burying my head in hard
work, I have to always pick myself up after the trivial life lessons and keep looking ahead on my journey, whereas I’m finally starting to see a little light! Q: Any “insider information” from the fashion industry to share with fashion students today? A: The knowledge of business is as important as the design. When I started working in a boutique, I will never forget the owner saying to me, “You just got an M.F.A. in design, well I am about to give you a Ph.D. in business.” Q: What advice would you give to students? A: If you work on it every day … your work will improve and eventually you will have discovered your success, because hard work pays off! She.Rise is sure to add a touch sparkle to any woman’s wardrobe!
Jeanie Walsh is a M.F.A. fashion journalism student.
page s-24 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
STYLE shop657
SHOP657: The evolution of the School of Fashion’s retail store
Snacku by Yoshimi Fukazawa, M.F.A. fashion design. Photo
by Jeffry Raposas. Styled by Boa Chu, Michelle Hsu, Chaw Chaw San and Kamila Marquez.
By Go-Un Yi On Thursday, April 30, Academy of Art University’s retail store, SHOP657, reopened at its 657 Sutter St location to showcase the exceptional work from talented School of Fashion students and alumni. SHOP657, a permanent, not-for-profit retail space created and curated by School of Fashion merchandising students, sells one-of-a-kind clothing, shoes, accessories and decorative lifestyle items designed by students and alumni. “SHOP657 builds on the momentum that the Academy of Art University
School of Fashion experienced with our successful pop-up store, which made its debut at our spring show last year,” said Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising Keanan Duffty. “SHOP657 is continually evolving and new alumni lines are being added to the roster of student and alumni collections that are carried at the shop. Creating and operating a dedicated fashion retail space is a unique opportunity to launch our graduates to be future stars in the fashion firmament.” I sat down with a few of the designers whose collections are carried at SHOP657
UNPLUG by Busara Boussard and Taufik Marasabessy. Photo by Jeffry Raposas. Styled by Stacey Bledsoe, Sophia Charles and Erin Ryan.
to chat with them about their lines, their time in the School of Fashion and their plans for the future. VOIDTHEBRAND
As one of the original lines sold at the retail store, VOIDTHEBRAND
GAZEL by Pinar Badur, M.F.A. fashion merchandising. Photo by Anthony Rogers. Styled by Lanie Rouch and Bibiana Pina.
is no stranger to SHOP657. For the reopening, VOIDTHEBRAND has collaborated with a local graphic designer on uniquely hand-dyed limited edition pieces, which will be available at SHOP657. With a strong belief in honest products, the brand presents basic but distinctive designs that are both high quality and affordable. “As an alumni, it is my honor to participate in such an event and be able to encourage others to pursue their dreams,” said brand founder Zhao Wu. Wu and his friends started VOIDTHEBRAND while they were still students at the Academy, because they “felt the urge to create a lineup of clothing that represented our perspectives in fashion.” After graduating with a B.F.A. in fashion merchandising, Wu and his business partners continued to develop the brand into “a complete collection with more product variations and collaborations.” Wu explained, “My philosophy is simple. I wanted to create a line of well designed products with great quality at the lowest prices available.” To transfer their fashion philosophy into tangible products, VOIDTHEBRAND sources their materials from a fabric mill in southern California and the rest of the manufacturing process is done locally in San Francisco.
When asked what’s next for VOIDTHEBRAND, Wu cited successful mega brand Nike as a source of inspiration. “I admire the way Nike conducts research and integrates the results into their products—to me it is beyond any other apparel brand that exists,” he said. “I would love to do that with technology; tech-apparel is something I would like to further explore.” Snacku
New to SHOP657, Snacku is the brainchild of M.F.A. fashion design alumna Yoshimi Fukazawa. Describing the name of her company, Fukazawa said, “I want my customers to find the kind of pleasure in my designs that snacks can bring to people.” After graduating from the School of Fashion, Fukazawa worked for local designers and brands where she faced two obstacles: the fast fashion trend and working as a design assistant as opposed to the head designer. Fukazawa soon figured out that “what customers really appreciate are well made, functional, basic styles from quality materials such as leather.” Such analysis made more sense to her than the fast fashion trend, and it eventually encouraged her to create a brand that truly represented her design philosophy. As a fashion designer and
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STYLE shop657 a cartoonist, Fukazawa creates classic and versatile outerwear for Snacku that have “fun and surprising functional details.” Her vintage leather bomber, for example, has rolled rib cuffs with a hole on each side so they can be worn as mitts when they are stretched. Fukazawa’s commitment to well made fashion can be seen in all aspects of her collection, from the process of sourcing the raw materials—the leather hides come from Italy and the rest of the raw materials are sourced domestically from mills that hand-dye the leather to order—to the construction of the garments by hand in the Snacku “Squirrel Factory” studio. “Fashion is a business, not conceptual art, so I am learning a lot of the practical side to making collections and it is very hard. I think it’s great for fashion merchandising
students to learn how to run an actual store and be able to learn some of these things while they are still in school!” Fukazawa is presenting Snacku’s Fall 2015 capsule collection, “Hobo,” at SHOP657. “Hobo” is her first collection to include wool-only jackets and coats, and uses domestically sourced wool from a small production mill. Of her inspiration, Fukazawa said, “My muse is my sister, who wants her clothes to fit into an office situation but also work for a Sunday brunch or shopping trip. So every time I design a new jacket, I have to step back and make sure it’s not too avant-garde but that it still has something special, like a zip out lining filled with my cartoon characters.” In 10 years, Fukazawa hopes to have Snacku sold at Barney’s New York, but in the meantime you can find her capsule collection at
Mute by Joanne Lu, M.F.A. fashion merchandising. Photo by Jeffry Raposas. Styled by Stacey Bledsoe, Sophia Charles and Erin Ryan.
SHOP657 in San Francisco. Diana Garcia
VOIDTHEBRAND by Zhao Wu, B.F.A. fashion merchandising. Photo by Anthony Rogers. Styled by Laynie Rouch and Bibiana Pina.
Hook Me Up by Qing Yan and Immaculata Adhista. Photo by
Anthony Rogers. Styled by Laynie Rouch and Bibiana Pina.
New to SHOP657 is the stunning jewelry from M.F.A. jewelry and metal arts student Diana Garcia. Garcia is not simply a designer, but also a narrator; when looking at necklaces like the double-headed horse pendant or ‘paper planes’ statement necklace, you cannot help but ask “what is the story behind this jewelry and who makes them?” Garcia launched her brand in 2013 while she was a student at the Academy. “The journey is like a roller coaster. Sometimes it is super fun, but it can also be really scary,” Garcia said. “Being at the Academy of Art University has been a huge influence and it’s been a dream come true to be with all the people that I admire. I really want to follow in their footsteps.” Garcia said of her design process, “When I design, I envision that my customers want to look different, be avant-garde, and they are looking for a jewelry that they can take with them on a journey…[with it, they can] always be ready for anything.” Garcia works primarily with brass and silver, because she loves that “they can be permissive and let you mold and sculpt just the way you want.” At SHOP657 you can find Garcia’s handmade sterling sliver jewelry pieces that she hopes will “make you fall in
love.” “When they told me that SHOP657 was looking for emerging designers I didn’t think twice. I knew that I wanted to be there, showing my work alongside so many other talented designers. For me, as a student, it is an honor to have my work included in the shop.” Through her participation in SHOP657, she hopes her brand will be recognized in the city. San Francisco is just the first of many cities she hopes to conquer over the next decade. She is also curating a new collaboration with SHOP657. Wu, Fukazawa and
Garcia are just a few of the talented students and alumni whose collections can be found at SHOP657. In addition, San Francycle, Mute, Apartment 415, Gazel, Rinat Brodach, 625 Lab, Dale Beevers, Deanna Wardley and VIPE are great alumni brands that can be found in the shop. Stop by 657 Sutter St. to see the amazing collections in person.
Go-Un Yi is a student in the School of Fashion.
GAZEL by Pinar Badur, M.F.A. fashion merchandising. Photo by Anthony Rogers. Styled by Laynie Rouch and Bibiana Pina.
page s-26 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
STYLE teen vogue fashion university
Nine stellar tips and learnings from Teen Vogue Fashion University Spring 2015 By Stacey Bledsoe
The 10th annual Teen Vogue Fashion University was held at Conde Nast’s new headquarters located at One World Trade Center in NYC. The event, which offered three majors, rounded up some of fashion’s biggest players and influencers including Michelle Phan, Landra Minie, Who What Wear’s co-founders Katherine Power and Hillary Kerr, Jessica Simpson, top bloggers, a panel of Teen Vogue editors and other industry professionals. The three-day event started with a kick-off party at Express in Times Square where students mingled with the magazine’s Editor-in-Chief Amy Astley, and Style Features Director Andrew Bevan. Classes were then held on the 64th and 65th floors of the building, which featured a lobby that celebrated the release of the new “Cinderella.” Specialty designs from Edie Parker, Zac Posen and Coco Rocha were on display as were sketches by Donald Drawbertson and Charlotte Tilbury. The utterly inspiring and posh event was organized by Teen Vogue and drew students from across America and neighboring countries. The seminar series allowed fashion insiders to share their career-launching tales, current ventures, personal anecdotes and advice with aspiring fashion hopefuls. Below are my top nine takeaways from the event,
Keynote speaker Zac Posen at Teen Vogue Fashion University. which I hope you’ll also find informative. 1) “Have a knowledge of many things.”— Vashtie Kola (Director, filmmaker, artist, designer, creative consultant and DJ)
The multi-credited and accomplished artist, Kola,
Dita Von Teese’s 2014 Met Gala dress by Zac Posen.
stressed the importance of having many facades in order to reach peak success. Personal and passionate interests should be taken seriously as they can differentiate you from the pack, while showing your dedication to one aspect of life outside of fashion. Knowing a second language or embracing differ-
ent cultures might just be the extra key to propel you into a job or opportunity other than what you originally sought after. Kola shared that her love of Jordan shoes eventually lead to a collaboration, making her the first female and non-athlete to design a shoe for the line. Being a well-rounded individual is causally stated, but actually adopting the passion for a new subject, area of design, social movement,
Rebecca Minkoff.
underground artist or technological movement can make you a better marketable and knowledgeable individual. 2) “Team over idea.”—Jens Grede (Co-founder of Frame Denim)
The über famous denim company’s co-founder spoke on building a brand in three years. Grede highlighted the value of execution. He stated that an ‘A’ idea with a ‘B’ team
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STYLE teen vogue fashion university is a ‘C’ idea to account for the lack of execution of a brilliant idea. Rather a ‘B’ idea with an ‘A’ team is an ‘A’ idea. He noted that many people have creative ideas, but that having ideas without a team to bring visions to life isn’t truly a great idea, it’s just a thought. 3) “Marketing equals telling true stories.”—Jens Grede (Co-founder of Frame Denim)
The man who chose Karlie Kloss as his muse and brand ambassador repeated over and over that selling a brand requires telling the truth. He added that in order to have a good market for your company you must craft a good product, which is true as great marketing comes from the ability to tell a true story. No one would ever buy polyester for the price of cashmere and the same goes for a brand starting out. Having a great product or design at the right place and the right time, that is of good quality and execution, will make for great marketing. Consumers crave products which promise qualities showcased in marketing ventures. Adhering to honesty will not only make your brand good, but will make it desirable. 4) “Find and execute internships in different areas.”— Micaela Erlanger (Stylist)
The famed stylist of Lupita Nyong’o, Olivia Munn, Jared Leto and Jamie Foxx is most definitely not a one-sided expert. Erlanger emphasized the value of learning an array of skills from different departments within the fashion sphere. Internships offer the time to learn and meet credited professionals within an industry. Understanding the fashion world should not be narrowed down solely to your desired position. Working in public relations, sales and marketing will make you a well-rounded player in the industry with the knowledge and experience to back your understanding.
5) “It’s about doing it.”— Micaela Erlanger (Stylist)
Upon realizing that life in the medical field wasn’t her forte, Erlanger made the jump to what she’d always found in her heart to be calling her name. While many people resort to dreaming and planning the ideal job, project or life, it really comes down to doing it. Jumping off the cliff of fear and into the life you want can only be done by you. Going after what you want is essential for self success and while you may weigh pros from cons in any big decision, just doing it and finding out what is to come after you’ve made the move is utterly rewarding. Erlanger said she’s never looked back. 6) “The importance of parents. ”—Zac Posen (Designer)
The modern American fashion designer, CFDA Perry Ellis Award Winner, Project Runway judge and Brooks Brothers creative director spoke of his journey to success. Upon leaving Central Saint Martins in London and gaining attention for his work, Posen returned to his childhood home in NYC. He turned his parent’s family room into a workshop where he created his first collection alongside his small, but mighty, team. Posen credits his artistic father and supportive mother for helping him pursue his gift and get his company off the ground at such a young age. Posen spoke of his tireless work nights sleeping on the couch along with his team in his early days as a key to his launch and success. 7) “Don’t let the fear of not being picked up keep you from believing you will.”—Jodie Snyder Morel (Co-founder and President of Dannijo)
Danielle Snyder and Jodie Snyder Morel founded the stylish cool girl jewelry line Dannijo in 2008. Finding a young love for jewelry making,
Teen Vogue Fashion University. the sisters began crafting items with their father’s medical instruments. The duo sold their pieces to fellow peers and to small local boutiques where they began to discover a following. Upon graduating college and landing corporate jobs, the sisters decided to go after their young love in the pursuit of building their business, only allowing themselves six months to get the company off the ground. They created each piece by hand during their early NYC days and spent an immense amount of time contacting department stores, small retailers and other fashion outlets. Jodi spoke of her sister Danielle’s fearless personality, which eventually landed them a spot on the Bergdorf Goodman sales floor. Her initiative to reach out to buyers at BG resulted in an instant partnership. Jodi spoke of heart and timing being ideal factors for their company’s breakout success.
you’re not dressing as you.
8) “Sense of style.”—Rebecca Minkoff (Designer)
9) “Keep reading.”— Brandon Maxwell (Stylist)
What does Minkoff look for when she interviews potential employees? Personal style and a sense of fashionable instinct. Nothing is more unflattering or ill-fitting when
Zac Posen discussing Dita Von Teese’s 2014 Met Gala dress.
Lady Gaga’s red glove stressed the importance of reading often. Discovering a favorite artist, author or director not only allows you to find inspiration and expand
L–R: Brandon Maxwell, Erin Hover, Jessica Minkoff, Marina Larroude, Andrew Bevan and Amy Astley at Teen Vogue’s editors panel.
your creative knowledge, but it can be handy in conversion. Connecting with someone over an article in The Wall Street Journal may lead you to a relationship you might not have had. In addition, having a go-to designer that you’ve followed and admired allows you to draw references and really follow a major player in fashion. Having the knowledge of the designer’s inspiration for the collection, their outside likes, past or current collaboration projects and their overall aesthetic is important. It’s impossible to know the ins and outs of the many hundreds of designers, but having the knowledge of a handful of designers can redefine and narrow your own creative taste. With stylists’ abilities to pick and choose from many designers and their work, having a favorite can minimize the overwhelming wave and allow one to dive deep into one’s work, so choose wisely.
Stacey Bledsoe is a B.F.A. fashion styling student. Her website is staceybledsoestylist.com.
page s-28 | May 2015 volume 1 | academy of art university | san francisco
STYLE street style
Take My Picture Thursday: Tyrice Hicks Take My Picture Thursday is a series that will showcase inventive styles caught on the street. Striving to reveal the personalities of the well-dressed individuals, this series proves that there is more than what meets the eye.
By Dairia Kymber Harvin Meet Tyrice. Full name: Tyrice Hicks Age: 22 Hometown: Prince Edward County, Virginia Title: Fashion design graduate student at Academy of Art University I was drawn to Tyrice’s look because of its minimalism, play on structure and his demeanor. For this look, he wears a black brim hat from Target, black H&M blazer, a basic, oversized white crew neck from Urban Outfitters, black joggers that are also from Urban Outfitters and tops the look off with black creepers from ZARA. Many things were discovered through our interaction. Q: Describe yourself and your style. A: My style is me, me and me. I can’t [describe myself] because I change every second. Q: Do you admire anyone in the fashion industry? A: I look up to people I can relate to…like Kanye West, A$AP Rocky, Theophilus London … they’re all artists with great music and they dress nice. They have a
unique style. Q: What kind of designer are you? A: I’m an Internet designer. I get most of my inspiration from Tumblr and Instagram. It’s a new age of designers. I came to the Academy because I thought it would be a good opportunity to showcase my work at New York Fashion Week. Q: How do you combat the
pressure of being a fashion design student? A: I have projects due every Wednesday morning, so most of the time, Tuesday is my only free day. I have to gather up all of the information I learned in the previous Wednesday morning class. I ask questions, go back and watch some vid-
eos … you just have to fake it until you make it.
You can follow Tyrice on Instagram at trillionaire_tyrice.
Q: You’re 22 years old. You’re a graduate student. You’re doing pretty well for someone your age. Do you have any advice for young people? A: Stay true to yourself. Drink water.
Dairia Kymber Harvin is a M.A. fashion journalism student. Follow Dairia’s blog at dairiakymber. tumblr.com.