academy of art university
School of Fashion
new york fashion week
spring 2019 & fall 2019 collections photographer:
Danielle Rueda art director:
Simon Ungless hair:
Sarah Dean make-up:
Victor Cembellin models:
Tiffany at Stars Management, Jovan at Look Model Agency
Hat and dress designed by Nicholle Jones, M.F.A. fashion design. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
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lusha wang, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in QingDao, China. Inspired by the movie “We Need to Talk About Kevin” and using the film’s star, Tilda Swinton, as her muse, Wang aimed to use the details in her collection to show the constraints and struggles women face in society. To represent this, Wang wove yarns together by hand and used strategic binding and stitching to constrain her fabric; her loose-fitting silhouettes symbolize an independent and confident woman. Her collection includes: cottonrayon shirting, virgin wool and bamboo blends, cotton sateen, patent leather, wool and metallic yarns, elastic and ribbon. In 2018, Wang received the San Francisco-Paris Sister City Scholarship Exchange Award, allowing her to study fashion at Studio Berçot in Paris during the academic year ahead, and Wang was selected to participate in the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) Fashion Future Graduate Showcase in New York during the summer.
Lusha Wang. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
zhihan liu, M.F.A. fashion design, is originally from Jilin, China. For this collection, Liu gleaned inspiration from the movie “Shutter Island,” especially the scene when the main actress is burned to ashes, starting from her backside. As Liu described it, for her, the scene evoked feelings of hurt, pain, darkness, austerity and purity; her aim was to transfer that scene onto the collection as a symbol of those emotions and experiences. Liu’s experimentation with texture included burning some of her fabric to get a faded,
decomposed effect. During her recent graduate coursework, Liu participated in Levi’s Made & Crafted contest and was one of the eight finalists selected from more than 500 applicants. In 2018, Liu was selected to participate in the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) Fashion Future Graduate Showcase in New York. Instagram: zhihan_n Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/zhihanliu/ Website: www.zhihanliu.com
Zhihan Liu. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Instagram: lushawang Website: www.lushawang.com Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/lushawang CFDA Fashion Future Graduate Showcase Online Portfolio: cfda.com/ programs/designers/fashionfuture-graduate-showcase/ future-graduate/lusha-wang
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SCHOOL OF FASHION · NEW YORK FASHION WEEK LOOKBOOK
justing kong jiang, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Guangzhou, China. Initially inspired by kinetic art and an appreciation for mechanic structure, Jiang’s inspiration evolved to focus more on the artwork of surrealists Oskar Schlemmer and Salvador Dali, and capturing the ‘spirit of surrealism.’ “I was drawn to the idea of designing a collection which would challenge the established ‘rules’ of clothing,” he explained. Through trial-anderror, Jiang experimented with different fabric manipulation techniques, including the use of boning to create gathers and shape. Jiang’s collection incorporates the use of unconventional materials such as insulation paper, reflective materials and conductive fabric—all sourced from a fabric and material supply company co-founded by Jiang, named Hautico. Jiang aimed to use the fabrication in the collection to enhance the play of light coming off the garments as they appear on the runway, lending a dynamic and futuristic tone to the collection.
Justing Kong Jiang. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Instagram: justingkong Website: justingkong.com
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SCHOOL OF FASHION · NEW YORK FASHION WEEK LOOKBOOK
changsheng yu, M.F.A. fashion design, is originally from Changsha, China. For his collection, Yu began analyzing the compositions, contrasts and shapes created by natural light and shadows in San Francisco. Yu also incorporated his appreciation of photography, turning to the work of Andrés Cañal and Horst P. Horst. Yu aimed to capture the texture conveyed through their images, the play of light and shadow, sculptural shapes and unexpected elements. In this collection, Yu also honors his mother and her longtime dream of being a dancer. He examined black and white photographs of his mother’s youth, as well as long-exposure photographs of dancers to help capture movement and fluid lines that he translated into his silhouettes. Yu’s draping, fabric manipulations and hand-dyed fringes capture his inspirations; his use of a simple black and white color story is a nod to his Chinese heritage as it represents Chinese calligraphy and ink paintings, and his intent to maintain design that reflects “an Asian soul.” In 2017, Yu was one of the finalists selected to have his garment exhibited at The Metropolitan Museum Design Competition for Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons; in 2018 he was selected as one of the five finalists considered for the Geoffrey Beene Scholarship Award granted annually by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and participated in the CFDA Fashion Future Graduate Showcase in New York during the summer. Instagram: changshengyu.design Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/changshengyu/ CFDA Fashion Future Graduate Showcase Online Portfolio: cfda. com/programs/designers/ fashion-future-graduateshowcase/future-graduate/ changsheng-yu
Changsheng Yu. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
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SCHOOL OF FASHION · NEW YORK FASHION WEEK LOOKBOOK
jessica (ching chi) lai, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Taichung, Taiwan. For this collection, Lai focused upon draping and textile development. The silhouettes are inspired by packaging design and advanced 3-D techniques, rather than the human body. Lai also incorporated the full freedom of personal design and creativity by using her own handdrawn images transferred into digital format, then applied onto the fabrics with silk screening. Inspired by the works of graphic illustrator Olimpia Zagnoli, Lai created a playful collection with bold ‘pop art’ colors, textured applique, irregular geometric shapes and improvised, hand-drawn plaid. The primary fabrics used in her collection are organic cotton and organic wool. In 2018, Lai was selected to participate in the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) Fashion Future Graduate Showcase in New York.
Jessica (Ching Chi) Lai. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
Instagram: Jessica_lai320 Website: www.iamjessicalai.com CFDA Fashion Future Graduate Showcase Online Portfolio: cfda.com/ programs/designers/fashionfuture-graduate-showcase/ future-graduate/jessicaching-chi-lai
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snežana aničić-van pelt, M.F.A. fashion design, is originally from Belgrade, Serbia. During the completion of her M.F.A. in fashion design at Academy of Art University, Aničić-Van Pelt derived inspiration for her collection through personal “observations of the ways our society has been shifting.” With rapid societal changes and diversity in modern gender identity and lifestyle choices, Aničić-Van Pelt views her collection as a “catalyst of the different qualities (identities) that can coexist as a whole, rather than fighting against each other.” AničićVan Pelt explores the juxtaposition of soft to crisp drape, organic to sharp shapes, warm and cold textures, and the raw to industrial fabric manipulations “translate this idea of a multitude of choices clashing together—in harmony.” Aničić-Van Pelt uses a range of materials in the collection, including, yet not limited to: human hair, Mongolian yak and lambswool, organdy, crinoline, and siliconed poplin and chenille. In 2017, Aničić-Van Pelt was one of the finalists selected to have her garment exhibited at The Metropolitan Museum Design Competition for Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons; her garment, which she titled “Landscapes of the Human Condition,” received the honor of ‘fan favorite.’ Instagram: snezana_anicic_van_pelt Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/snezanaanicic
Snežana Aničić-Van Pelt. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
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SCHOOL OF FASHION · NEW YORK FASHION WEEK LOOKBOOK
Longwen Li and Kiwon Kang. Photo by Danielle Rueda. Fashion design and textile design collaboration: Longwen Li and Kiwon Kang longwen li, M.F.A. fashion design, is originally from Guangzhou, China. Li’s collaborative menswear collection with Kiwon Kang (M.F.A. textile design) is designed to celebrate potential stereotypes and capture a ‘modern, nerdy, and futuristic’ style, inspired by the movie “Revenge of the Nerds II:
Nerds in Paradise” as well as glitch art (the practice of using digital or analog errors for aesthetic purposes). Li’s silhouettes are structural and stiff with large geometric shapes, which were inspired by his Photoshop manipulations of stills from the movie and glitch art overlays that resulted in some distinctive shapes emerging. For Li, the unusual menswear silhouettes represent ‘functionality.’ To create the intended
silhouettes, Li improvised by fusing different thicknesses of felt onto his fabrics to maintain shape. The collection includes the use of wool suiting, rayon, corduroy and the repurposed use of vintage Hawaiian shirts. kiwon kang, M.F.A. textile design, was born in Busan, South Korea. For this collection, Kang worked with Longwen Li (M.F.A. fashion design) and Li’s inspirations for a ‘modern, nerdy, and
futuristic’ style. Additionally, Kang merged complimentary inspirations for texture from Nam June Paik’s video art by focusing on the motif of distorted images and white noise coming from an old CRT TV screen, coupled with his own artistic interpretations. Kang used a variety of colors in his textile design and overlays, as well as techniques to re-create color and patterns on the vintage Hawaiian shirts.
longwen li Instagram: longwen_liiiiiiii Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/longwenli/ kiwon kang Instagram: textile_kang Website: www.kwkang11.com
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zibo wang, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Beijing, China. For her debut collection, Wang was inspired by her childhood and her experience of growing up on a military compound. The mixes of fabrics she chose for the collection are related to ‘family life’; her machine embroideries reflect both her home and military themes. Wang combines traditional masculine and military details with the womenswear collection, intentionally playing with the notion of gender stereotypes and an emphasis on redefining femininity. Instagram: z1b0_wang Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/zibowang
Zibo Wang. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
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SCHOOL OF FASHION · NEW YORK FASHION WEEK LOOKBOOK yoonsuk lee, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Seoul, South Korea. For his debut collection, Lee combined his education in menswear and womenswear design with visual associations from the ‘walk of shame,’ along with inspirations derived from his
grandfather’s custom tailored suits and the surrealist black and white photography of Vivian Maier and Irving Penn. Lee experimented with the collection by merging details of menswear tailoring with elements of womenswear couture, including the use of boning, horsehair facing and
Yoonsuk Lee. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
hand-stitching. He also included the process of deconstructing and reconstructing as a nod to “the reinterpretation of objects through fashion” and efforts in sustainable design. Lee scoured vintage stores in the Haight district of San Francisco to source some ideas for the fabrics,
and reconstructed vintage garments to develop the silhouettes for the collection. He also created exaggerated houndstooth patterns by hand-weaving surplus black, white and cream-colored lace trimmings found within the school. In 2017, Lee was a finalist
for the Geoffrey Beene Design Scholarship Award annually bestowed by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Instagram: tailor_boys Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/yoonsuklee
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vivid yunan ma, M.F.A. knitwear design, was born and raised in Taiyuan, China. Ma’s collection is inspired by the photography of Mark Nixon, in particular his series of portraits that appear in the book, “Much Loved,” featuring teddy bears and stuffed animals that show all the signs of wear and tear as dearly beloved ‘stuffies.’ Ma’s collection aims to capture the essence of unconditional love and nostalgia, pointing to an overall sense of harmony and serenity that these worn-out toys seem to convey. For Ma, the color choices in her collection are representative of the emotions and memories associated with “Much Loved”; bold colors, like the red and orange, represent ‘love,’ whereas the midnight blue represents ‘blurred memories.’ Ma sourced her yarns mainly from Italy, using mohair, cashmere, rayon and elastic for the construction of her zero-to-no-waste garments. She demonstrates versatility through the use of single and double bed knitting machines, hand knit and crochet, as well as the Dubied and Stoll machines, experimenting with techniques and stitch, including: cable, ripple, weaving, jacquard and tuck lace. Ma brings these elements together to create depth and dimension to each garment in her collection. Instagram: yunan_maa Website: yunanma.com
Vivid Yunan Ma. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
nicholle jones, M.F.A. fashion design, was born and raised in Columbus, Ohio. As a successful online student, Jones is demonstrating how one can successfully study and complete a degree remotely. Jones integrated her millinery background into her collection and outlined a three-part vision: to create an emotional, moving experience through the clothing; to create intelligent construction and patternmaking through advanced and bespoke tailoring; and to confront limitations of conventional fashion and beauty. For Jones, the idea is to have her level of
critical thinking and problem solving challenged. Jones’ inspiration for the collection were masks; the mystery that hides underneath—either a physical mask, an invisible mask, or simply ‘an act or behavior’ that is an attempt to cover or distract. Jones experimented with unusual materials to create her sculptural garments; her primary material is sinamay, a hat-making fabric, mixed with other lightweight fabrics. Instagram: carte_blanche_df Website: www.2187149.com
Nicholle Jones. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
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Mark Kazu Mekaru, Katy Fang Liu and Amo (Yu Ling) Chou. Photo by Danielle Rueda. Fashion design, textile design, knitwear design collaboration: Mark Kazu Mekaru, Katy Fang Liu and Amo (Yu Ling) Chou mark kazu mekaru, M.F.A. fashion design, is a San Francisco native. The inspiration for Mekaru’s collection originated from a Miyako Ishiuchi photograph of a disintegrated garment destroyed during WWII, along with some elements of the Japanese art of origami. Ideas of disintegration, peeling and falling away are incorporated in the garment shapes as well as textiles and knits. The collection merges the use of denim, wool, cot-
ton, twill, oilskin, polyester, waxed cotton canvas and linen, as well as a combination of layering, draping, details and textures. katy fang liu, M.F.A. textile design, was born in Shanghai, China. Liu always aims to repurpose materials, to create sustainable textiles, and to incorporate advanced methods of processing natural materials whenever possible. Liu’s aesthetic is often inspired by the work of Dries Van Noten; she admires his risky choice of colors and his manipulations that create vivid patterns and ‘a wildness.’ For this collection, Liu collaborated with Mark Kazu Mekaru
(M.F.A. fashion design) and Amo Chou, (M.F.A. knitwear design), working with Mekaru’s lead inspiration of a Miyako Ishiuchi photograph of a disintegrated garment destroyed during WWII. She created multi-layered fabrics treated in burn-out, screen printing and discharge techniques, using denim, oilskin and waxed cotton canvas. In 2017, Liu was selected by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) as one of 41 students (out of 1,000+ entrants) for the CFDA+ 2017 “The Power of We” showcase connecting global student talent with their membership.
amo (yu ling) chou, M.F.A. knitwear design, was born and raised in Taiwan. For this collaborative menswear collection, Chou teamed with Mark Kazu Mekaru (M.F.A. fashion design) and Katy Fang Liu (M.F.A. textile design), working with Mekaru’s lead inspiration of a Miyako Ishiuchi photograph of a disintegrated garment destroyed during WWII, as well as some elements of origami. Chou focused upon creating knitwear that mimicked traditional surface textile effects such as burnout and discharge. Her knitwear in this collection is composed of wool, cotton and natural bristle yarns.
mark kazu mekaru Instagram: mkazum Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/markmekaru/ katy fang liu Instagram: katytextiles Website: katyfliu.com CFDA+ Design graduate October 2017 online portfolio: cfda.com/ programs/designers/cfda2016-design-grads/graduate/ fang-katy-liu amo (yu ling) chou Instagram: chou.amo Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/yulingchou/
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Fashion design collaboration: Tingting Cai and Esther (Tian) Qi The designers’ shared inspirations, appreciation for the layering of fabrics (representing the pages of books and points of connection), and asymmetrical silhouettes, offer a collection that represents physical, emotional and intellectual intimacy. tingting cai, M.F.A. fashion design, grew up in Shanghai, China. For her collaborative collection with Esther (Tian) Qi, M.F.A. fashion design, Cai identified her point of inspiration in vintage books; specifically, the construction of the books, as well as the connection between people and books—how they leave traces of their experience of reading throughout a book such as dog eared pages, writing, highlights, coffee spills, etc. Cai experimented with fabric layering to reflect the pages of books and to also support the sculptural silhouettes of the collection, which are based upon Qi’s inspirations. Cai used a variety of colors and textured fabrics in her layers, as well as hand-sewn details that also represent the manner in which many vintage books are bound. In order to create the three-dimensional look, Cai arranged layers slowly and gradually. esther (tian) qi, M.F.A. fashion design, was born in Xi’an, China. For Qi’s collaborative collection with Tingting Cai, M.F.A. fashion design, she sought to incorporate her initial inspiration of Siamese twins and their irregular, connected bodies, specifically, the point of where their bodies connect. Prior to collaborating with Cai, she was also drawing inspiration from books and the connection made between people and books. The fabrics in the collection include worsted wool and flannel, mull, cotton twill and wool crepe. tingting cai Instagram: tingting_cai61 Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/tingtingcai/
Tingting Cai and Esther (Tian) Qi. Photo by Danielle Rueda.
esther (tian) qi Instagram: Esther.Qi Portfolio: www.artsthread. com/profile/estherqi/