09 15 2014 Academy of Art University Newspaper

san francisco | academy of art university |

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Special Edition | page 25

Style Photo by David Dooley.

INSIDE

Behind the scenes of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week: Go backstage with the designers as they watched their collections make their runway debut. Page 26.

Victor Cembellin: The lead make up artist for the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week talks about his love for teaching at the Academy. Page 28.

Nigel Barker: The renowned fashion photographer speaks about his varied career in the industry at a symposium for the School of Fashion. Page 29.

Jenny Hoang: The Fashion Design alumna’s uniquely feminine and powerful pieces stun at Supima Design Competition. Page 30.

page 26 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Special Edition | academy of art university | san francisco

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BACKSTAGE

Chaos, fabulousness and fun: Backstage at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

By Doreen Du As you might guess, fashion shows are not a low-fuss event. It takes a huge team to pull together a successful show; every single facet of the fashion industry works to put on a successful show that lasts for just 15 minutes.

In the front of the house, the vibe is cool, calm and collected. The music and lights go up and models walk the runway in a Zen-like state. Even if they take a spill, they just act like that was all part of the show. In most cases, everything goes off without a hitch, and the show is done before you know it.

The chaos of backstage, however, is in sharp contrast with the serenity of front of house. Makeup artists and hair stylists scramble to get the models ready in time, designers hurriedly fix hems and steam garments, dressers speedily undress and redress models and a throng of media outlets move through the crowded space interviewing, photographing and filming the designers as they work.

I’m pleased to offer up an exclusive, behind-thescenes look of all the chaos, fabulousness and fun that went down backstage at Academy of Art University’s Spring 2015 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show.

Designers watch the runway show from backstage. (L–R) Mia Jianxia Ji, M.F.A. Fashion and Knitwear Design; Wei Bai, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Yin Yang, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Max Lu, M.F.A. Fashion Design. Photo by David Dooley.

The preparations backstage started hours before the runway show. From hair and makeup to last-minute

garment alterations and runway rehearsals, the models, beauty team, stylists and press were all on-site

long before guests started filing into The Theatre at Lincoln Center for the show.

Working backstage was defi-

nitely a team sport; it was not uncommon to see a group of 10 people hurriedly working on just one model to get her

(L–R) Back row: Jingci Wang, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Max Lu, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Yin Yang, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Liz Li, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Yaqiong Zhou, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Jihyun Kim, M.F.A. Fashion Design Menswear; Madison Detro, M.F.A. Fashion Design. (L–R) Front row: Szu Chi Huang, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Die Zhou, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Wei Bai, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Mia Jianxia Ji, M.F.A. Fashion and Knitwear Design.

Photo by David Dooley.

san francisco | academy of art university |

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Special Edition | page 27

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BACKSTAGE

(L–R) Max Lu, M.F.A. Fashion Design; Yaqiong Zhou, M.F.A. Fashion Design. Photo by David Dooley.

Mia Jianxia Ji, M.F.A. Fashion and Knitwear Design, gets help from 3-D Design Coordinator Gonbee Tanaka. Photo by Randy Brooke / WireImage.

runway ready.

Amidst the chaos, however, was a sense of Zen. It wasn’t a dramatic scene at all—the designers didn’t yell at the producer, the producer didn’t yell at the hair and makeup artists and the hair and makeup artists didn’t yell at the models. Everyone backstage said, “please” and “thank you” all the time, even though they were working under intense pressure and a tight deadline. Seeing this just reinforced my belief that politeness and professionalism are the key to getting the best out of any team.

For a long time, my biggest MBFW misconception

Max Lu, M.F.A. Fashion Design, and Szu Chi Huang, M.F.A. Fashion Design, answer a reporter’s questions backstage. Photo by David Dooley.

was that fashion industry people are pretentious and entitled, as they are so often depicted in the media. At the Academy’s fashion show, this was unequivocally not the case. All the people I saw working were, by and large, the loveliest, most creative, down-to-earth and most relentlessly hard-working group of professional individuals I have ever met.

I love the dynamic vibe of backstage! It’s difficult to put in words the feeling of being among the diverse talent that converges inside just a few hours to execute the perfect fashion show. The excitement and nerves, the chaos and harmony; once the

show began, the outpouring of positive energy backstage was all encompassing.

Working backstage taught me the importance of planning and logistics, thinking on my feet, clear communication and again, teamwork. Be efficient.

Focus. Enjoy the moment.

This produces the best work.

Sure, it seems exhausting to work in a fast-paced, high-energy environment that is filled with nearly every type of character; however, there’s no better feeling than seeing all of that hard work come together as a look goes down the runway.

Yes, this fashion show was a whirlwind, but it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I’m sure the 12 designers will never forget.

Max Lu; M.F.A. Fashion Design, watched the show from backstage along with Simon Ungless, Executive Director of Academy of Art University School of Fashion and Gonbee Tanaka, 3-D Design Coordinator. Photo by David Dooley.

Doreen Du is an M.F.A. Fashion Merchandising student.

page 28 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Special Edition | academy of art university | san francisco

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BEAUTY

Backstage beauty

By Alexa Palacios As one can imagine, the scene backstage at a major fashion show is exceptionally fast paced, with a huge number of people working to complete varied tasks all within a short span of time. The Academy of Art University show was no different from what I had imagined, and the controlled chaos backstage was a sight to see.

Among the talented individuals putting in tons of work backstage was Victor Cembellin, the lead makeup artist for the show. Together with the M.A.C. PRO team, Cembellin created a minimal, ethereal look to complement the Spring 2015 collections.

With over 20 years of industry experience, Cembellin’s credits include freelance editorial makeup artist, educator at the Academy of Art University and also Senior Makeup Artist for North America at M.A.C. Cosmetics.

Cembellin’s extensive experience and knowledge are an exceptional asset for Academy of Art University students who wish to further their career in the world of beauty.

“I initially became involved with the Academy of Art University after leading the makeup team during New York Fashion Week several years ago, back when the tents were still in Bryant Park.

Upon returning home to San Francisco - I was born and raised in the Bay Area - I shot several covers and editorials for 180 Magazine,” Cembellin said.

Cembellin was then approached by the Academy to teach a course solely dedicated to hair and makeup, which he teaches alongside hair stylist Joel Cortes. Cembellin gushes that he loves working with other creatives and “in-

Head hairstylist Jon Reyman demonstrates the chosen hairstyle to the Aveda team. Photo by David Dooley. terfacing with students at the Academy of Art University gives me the opportunity to share my lifetime of industry experience as they embark upon their creative paths.”

Collaboration is the key to a successful beauty concept, Cembellin reminds me.

Hair and makeup are decided upon as a team.

“In the case of New York Fashion Week and the Academy of Art University show, the hair and makeup team met with Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion, two or three days prior to the show for something called a test,” Cembellin said. “One female model and one male model are secured in order to actualize various hair and makeup visions for the show.

The process is finalized with pictures that are taken for

Aveda and MAC PRO team artists work side by side to get models runway ready. Photo by Randy Brooke / WireImage.

reference and to assist the backstage hair and makeup teams on the day of the show.”

Aveda and MAC PRO team artists work in harmony to perfect models’ hair and makeup.

Photo by David Dooley.

It was during these tests that the look for the show, which Cembellin dubbed “Puritanical Minimalism,” began to take shape. With this look, the models were “meant to feel slightly sorrowful with their sculpted cheekbones and glossy stained eyelids.

Rather than ‘playing into the pretty,’ we focused on the architecture of each models face,” Cembellin explained.

Just as designers pull inspiration from multiple sources, so did the beauty team. Cembellin explained that the inspiration for the makeup came courtesy of Ungless and ranged from “pictures of Greek marble statues to movie stills from the movie Jane Eyre.”

He was then able to conceptualize a look that fell within this creative vision while also tying in with modernity and current trends. Complementing the

minimal makeup was a sleek, almost wet-looking hairstyle dreamed up by hair guru Jon Reyman for Aveda.

Each station backstage was masterfully set up for efficient, speedy work. To get every beauty aspect covered in the short time allotted, multiple artists worked on one model simultaneously.

One artist worked on makeup while another perfected the model’s coif, and yet another artist was hard at work on manicures and pedicures.

Although at times the beauty area backstage seemed hectic, the masterful, sculpted makeup lent the models an ethereal peace as they walked the runway.

Alexa Palacios is a B.F.A. Fashion Journalism student.

san francisco | academy of art university |

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Special Edition | page 29

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK DESIGNERS

180 Degrees of Style Fashion Symposium: Keanan Duffty talks with photographer Nigel Barker

By Doreen Du Four hours before the Academy of Art University fashion show took place at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the School of Fashion held their very first fashion symposium at the New York Public Library for the Performing Arts. Keanan Duffty, Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising, talked with internationally renowned fashion photographer Nigel Barker and both shared their valuable insights and experiences in the fashion industry.

You may know Nigel Barker as one of the judges on the hit CW Network show “America’s Next Top Model” with Tyra Banks or as the host of “The Face” with Naomi Campbell. Being a noted fashion photographer, his career did not begin behind the camera but actually started in front.

Barker spent 10 years as

Keanan Duffty, Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising, talked with internationally renowned fashion photographer Nigel Barker at the School of Fashion’s first fashion symposium at the New York Public Library for the Performing Arts.

Photo by John Perez and Ho Ting Shiu.

a top male fashion model, walking for many powerful fashion houses, such as Giorgio Armani and Jean Paul Gautier, while traveling the world to pursue his career. As a model, Barker grew an intense love for fashion and in the mid '90s he decided to step back from being in front of the camera and use his knowledge and unique perspective of the industry to take on a new career path as a photographer.

For many people, jumping around careers between modeling and photography seems to be a dead end, however, Barker has no fear to venture out to every facet of the fashion industry.

Above: Keanan Duffty, Senior Director of Fashion Merchandising, and noted fashion photographer and “America’s Next Top Model” judge Nigel Barker. Below: A rapt audience at the New York Public Library for the Performing Arts. Photos by John Perez and Ho Ting Shiu.

“Don’t limit yourself,” he said. “Many people limit themselves to what they think they can do.”

Barker didn’t stop at his success with his modeling career. Instead, he dared to follow his passion and accepted challenges along the way.

“Everyone has something to contribute to this world,” he said. “It is up to you to take the first move.”

Barker added, “Do things with passion or don’t do it at all. Whether you’re thinking about starting a fashion magazine or just thinking about what career path to choose, it’s important that you follow your passion. That enthusiasm is very powerful. When you can combine it with your work, you are setting yourself up well for achieving true success. When we are enthusiastic and proud of the work we do, the better equipped we’ll be to overcome the obstacles that will surely arise in the process of moving up in a career.”

Barker also expressed to the audience that confidence, not conceit, is a very critical attribute, regardless of your age. His confidence came from working nonstop for everything he did and putting 100 percent into his work.

“At the end of the day, no one is going to hold your hand and tell you everything is going to be fine,” he shared.

The photographer also

encouraged everyone to believe in themselves and what they have been doing because if they don’t, no one else will.

“Working in the fashion industry—it requires pretty much continual mental and physical effort—a lot of patience, understanding, flexibility and most of all, communication,” said Barker.

At the end of the symposium, both Barker and Duffty shared their opinions on how the digital era has changed the photographic landscape in terms of building a brand or name.

“Currently, people with all kinds of social media outlets can easily have access to connect to the world, which makes the process easier and yet more competitive,” explained Duffty.

The fact that millions of users worldwide are on Instagram and Twitter reflects a broader shift from print toward a digital age, which targets users only on their smartphones. Both Duffty and Barker suggested we all keep up with the digital world and always be thinking ahead as we all know one thing about the fashion industry—one minute you’re in, the next minute you’re out.

Doreen Du is an M.F.A. Fashion Merchandising student.

page 30 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Special Edition | academy of art university | san francisco

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK SUPIMA DESIGN COMPETITION

Jenny Hoang presents stunning collection at Supima Design Competition in NYC

Jenny Hoang’s collection. Photos by Ze Takahashi and Olivier Claisse / FirstView.

By Doreen Du On Thursday, September 4 at Lincoln Center, Supima, a non-profit organization, held its annual Supima Design Competition dedicated to promoting the use of Pima cotton.

Committed to giving young talent a chance to show their work on the runway, Supima chose six senior college students to create collections and compete at a runway show at MercedesBenz Fashion Week in New York City. From floral patterns to color blocking to bold silhouettes, the designs were truly inspired.

The competition was hosted by top model Coco Rocha along with guest judges Bryanboy of BryanBoy. com, stylist Isabel Dupre, Tom Fitzgerald and Lorenzo Marquez of TomAndLorenzo. com, Natalie Joos of TalesOfEndearment.com, W Magazine’s Fashion Market & Accessories Director Karla Martinez, Phil Oh of StreetPeeper.com, consultant Roopal Patel, fashion designer Marcia Patmos, stylist Mary Alice Stephenson and stylist Anya Ziourova. The live runway event featured music

by DJ Mad Marj (Marjorie Gubelmann).

From Academy of Art University, Jenny Hoang, B.F.A. Fashion Design alumna, was selected to create a collection and compete for the $10,000 prize. Raised in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and Oregon, Hoang is a former CFDA Award winner.

She presented outstanding, fresh and unique pieces, which she describes as “feminine yet powerful and fierce.”

Pima cotton was the

(L–R) David Lee, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising; Anastasia Iafrate, Kent State University; Yuxi Bi, Savannah College of Art and Design; Ou Ma, Fashion Institute of Technology; Sharon Moon, Rhode Island School of Design; Jenny Hoang, Academy Of Art University. Courtesy of the School of Fashion. basic fabric with which the finalists were required to design their collections. Hoang found the cotton to be a bit of an obstacle at first, but over time she saw the fabric as a fun challenge. “Cotton is not typically an eveningwear material, but working with the fabric helped me think outside the box in terms of design and construction,” Hoang explained.

“The fabric was just fantastic.

I could do so many things with it and it still kept its shape and quality.”

With the help of her design instructors, Hoang built the collection step by step, starting first with the fabric. By dyeing the fabric and then using a bleaching technique on certain areas, Hoang achieved a textile reminiscent of Batik fabrics and transformed plain cotton into a textile that was appropriate for luxury evening gowns.

The whole collection was fashioned in a monochromatic plum palette.

The silhouettes in Hoang’s collection were

inspired by Megatron from the movie “Transformers.”

Structural volume in the shoulders reflected the idea of transformation, giving each garment a strong presence on the runway.

Although Anastasia Iafrate from Kent State University was named the winner of the competition, Hoang was thrilled to have had the opportunity to compete. “I had never shown at fashion week before, and it was exhilarating to present my own designs on the New

York Fashion Week runway.”

A fan of Giorgio Armani, Hoang hopes to one day be a designer for the Italian fashion house. Hoang’s talent and passion are clear, and with a drive to never stop learning and improving her skills, we are sure that she’ll wow us on the runway for seasons to come.

Doreen Du is an M.F.A. Fashion Merchandising student.