12 01 2015 AAU Newspaper

san francisco | academy of art university |

December 2015 volume 2 | page 29

Style One of the looks from Antonio Luna’s menswear collection. Photo by Claudia Goetzelmann. Styling by Konrad Janus. Model August Gonet. Make up by Olga Pirmatova.

INSIDE

Antonio Luna: The menswear design alumnus shares his fashion journey and the inspiration for his new collection. Page 31.

Jacqueline Rabôt: Hear from the Free People designer about her experience in the School of Fashion and why she loves her job. Page 33.

Elena Slivnyak: The designer talks about her couture fashion brand and designing for “The Hunger Games: Mockingjay —Part 1.” Page 32.

Janey Cao: The textile designer spends her days using different techniques and enjoying watching her designs turn into real products. Page 33.

Michael Carbaugh: The B.F.A. textile design alumnus’ line of aromatic sprays use natural essential oils to evoke inspiring aromas of nature. Page 34.

Street Style: For acting major Daidre Powell, feelings and emotions inspire her clothing style. Page 34.

House of Borel: The fashion start-up focuses on the timeless when creating classic bags, made in Italy.

Page 35.

NEWH awards: Kristin Choi’s passion and talent for interior design is rewarded by a scholarship at awards dinner. Page 36.

page 30 | December 2015 volume 2 | academy of art university | san francisco

STYLE ANTONIO LUNA

Antonio Luna launches menswear collection

By Ian MacKintosh Antonio Luna, 2012 B.F.A. menswear design alumnus, presented his senior collection at the 2012 Graduation Fashion Show.

In April 2013, his collection was selected for the Academy of Art University Fashion Show during a San Francisco Museum and Historical Society event, Standing Ovations VI—San Francisco Style Gala. This is an annual event celebrating the city’s unique contributions to the fashion industry. Earlier this year, he launched his eponymous collection and online store.

Q: How did you come to study at the Academy?

A: Since childhood, I have been drawn to fashion and design. At the age of 14, I began to design special-occasion dresses that my mother would sew for my older sisters. However, the social climate in Guadalajara did not encourage men to pursue careers in fashion. I pragmatically completed a degree in business administration, moved to California, learned English and began working in hospitality. This career paid reasonably well and offered growth potential, but the work did not inspire me.

I started taking fashion classes at City College of San Francisco. After two years, one of my instructors advised me that Academy of Art University offered a full scholarship to one City College fashion student each year. I knew that the Academy of Art University

Antonio Luna with President Stephens at the 2015 Graduation Fashion Show. Photo by Bob Toy. had an incredible four-year fashion program, and a scholarship was the only way I could get in. For the next six months, I put together a strong collection of seven looks on a budget of $4,000, which I earned waiting tables. Of the 14 students who competed, my collection was selected as the winner and I was awarded the Presidential Scholarship by Dr. Elisa

Stephens. That night changed my life forever.

Q: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

A: Presentation days were the best. Although nerve-wracking, I learned the most about my aesthetic and the way I communicate through fashion. I also learned about the way my classmates approached challenges and channeled their creativity.

This interactive structure created a rich learning environment.

Q: What was your biggest challenge during your time as a student?

A: My biggest challenge was the cost of living in

San Francisco. The School of Fashion curriculum is rigorous and the projects demanding, leaving little time for a part-time job. I earned a few hundred dollars per week as a waiter. After rent, my

income was spent on fabric and supplies. While producing my final collection, I had to sublet the living room of my one bedroom apartment in order to buy shoes for the models. I am very grateful for that experience, because I learned to be very resourceful.

Q: Thinking back to when you were creating your senior collection, do you have any advice for students who want to create a collection for one of the Academy fashion shows?

A: Be honest with yourself in every sense—your aesthetic, your resources, your timelines and your skills. If you decide to go for it, don’t hesitate to give it your all. Work the hardest you can. At the end of the day, your work will speak for itself on the runway and that is the best feeling of satisfaction.

Antonio Luna. Courtesy of Antonio Luna.

Q: Did you always know that

san francisco | academy of art university |

December 2015 volume 2 | page 31

STYLE ANTONIO LUNA you wanted to start your own line?

A: No I didn’t. At some point I wanted the security of working for somebody else.

A year after the final show, I had evaluated several options but couldn’t commit because I wanted to continue to explore my own aesthetic. It has been an organic process.

I have always been a handson person, and having my own label means that I get to learn all aspects of creating, manufacturing and merchandising my garments. I had to expand my design aesthetic

to acknowledge the commercial needs of a sustainable business. I identified a niche segment of the market for special occasion menswear, and I have a defined style that resonates with creative professionals.

Q: As a designer, what is a typical day for you like?

A: I wear many hats, my day changes depending on the stage of production. If I am creating a collection, I sketch new designs, develop patterns, cut fabric and sew samples. It is very important for me to

sew my own samples because I learn so much through the trial and error process of creating muslins. The development phase is what I enjoy the most.

Since the Bay Area garment manufacturing industry lacks the centralized infrastructure of New York or Los Angeles, the manufacturing phase requires frequent travel.

My pattern grader is located in the Bayview District of San Francisco, my cutter is in the Mission and my contract factory is in Oakland. Since I work closely with each, I find myself running back and forth to troubleshoot unexpected issues, which inevitably arise.

In the commercial or marketing phase, I focus on customer engagement and information technology (IT). For the last collection, I developed my own website and digital look book. This required me to create concepts, hire vendors and learn the technical skills needed to run an online store. I also designed the marketing materials, including the brand style guide, stationery, business cards and packaging. I review the status of inbound or outbound shipments daily and check emails nonstop. Finally, I commit significant time and resources to public relations and social media.

Q: Where do you find inspiration?

A: Art and architecture are my primary inspirations. I like the contrast created by the light and shadows of a building or the compilation of colors that clash or embrace each other in harmonious or dissonant ways in a painting. Boldness can be created with simple lines and a stroke of color on a monochromatic background. I am also fascinated with the detailed construction of vintage military or police uniforms because they are skillfully crafted and define a historical masculine aesthetic.

Q: Tell us about your new collection.

A: My collection is deceptively simple, it is structured yet has a soft quality. I incorporate subtle details into my garments, which translate into an understated sophistication. For Fall 2015, I used heavy weight cotton for shirts, cotton twill and canvas for pants, and wools in varying weights and colors for jackets.

The palate is mostly hues of blue and teal-blue, with accents of warm ivory and rust red.

My customer is a creative professional. He works in the arts and needs special occasion garments to wear to parties, gallery openings, concerts, photo shoots or even a first date. For these

occasions, the ubiquitous uniform of jeans and a blazer won’t cut it, but a suit is not edgy enough. My customer turns to me for garments that will help him tell his unique story through menswear.

Q: How is the launch going?

A: The first phase was the launch of the website/online store. The website was successfully launched in July 2015. The second phase is partnering with small contemporary boutiques for product placement. Careful selection of a stockist will increase the probability that my garments are available to the right customer at the right time.

Q: What are your goals for the rest of 2015 and 2016?

A: For the rest of 2015, I will be developing small production runs of garments from the Fall collection. In addition, I have already begun to work on the Spring 2016 collection so that the samples and look book can be in front of buyers by the end of February.

Ian MacKintosh is the Director of Public Relations & Special Events for the School of Fashion. All looks photographed by Claudia Goetzelmann, styled by Konrad Janus, model August Gonet and make up by Olga Pirmatova.

page 32 | December 2015 volume 2 | academy of art university | san francisco

STYLE ALUMNI UPDATE: ELENA SLIVNYAK

The Futuristic World of Elena Slivnyak

By Taufik Marasabessy After graduating in 2010 from Academy of Art University with a B.F.A. in fashion design, Ukrainianborn Elena Slivnyak has successfully launched her own couture fashion brand, IIMUAHII (pronounced “eee-mooah-eee”). IIMUAHII produces avant-garde fashion with a unique and distinctive style that is loved by celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Tyra Banks and Debby Harry, just to name a few.

The brand also made its debut on the silver screen by appearing in the film “The Hunger Games: Mockingjay— Part 1” film, while Slivnyak herself participated in season 10 of “Project Runway.”

Recently, the environmentally friendly brand appeared during the Los Angeles Fashion Week and the first annual 360 Fashion & Tech “Startup Runway & Innovation Awards.”

Naturally, we caught up with Slivanyak to inquire about her remarkable success.

Q: First of all, I would like to congratulate you for all of the success you have achieved. It interests me how you went to establish your brand right after you graduated as opposed to gaining some experience first under other fashion brands. What drove you to take such a leap?

A: Thank you! When I graduated in 2010, the economy was still really bad, and I wasn’t able to get a job. I tried applying to many different companies, different positions and even other countries.

The process was very hard to swallow, and I knew I had

Elena Slivnyak. Courtesy of Elena Slivnyak. to do something for myself.

So instead of sitting around waiting for a job opportunity to arrive, I decided to make a collection and go for it myself.

Q: What’s the idea behind the name IIMUAHII? A: IIMUAHII was a name that I coined by playing around with different letters. I wanted the name to sound very futuristic and alienesque, and almost looked like it’s from another planet.

I also knew that I wanted something one of a kind and that no one in the world had, hence came IIMUAHII. Q: Your clothes are absolutely beautiful. Where do you find inspiration?

A: I love looking to things that aren’t an ideal kind of beauty for inspiration. I love architecture and unusual shapes and silhouettes and look to things like weird creatures, insects, plants and other unusual forms of nature. I’ve always also been inspired by anything that has to do with science fiction and surrealism.

With everything I create, I love to explore emotional

Image from the IIMUAHII lookbook. Courtesy of Elena Slivnyak.

settings that evoke strong feelings from the viewer.

Q: Why are you pursuing a more niche market and not a ready-to-wear?

A: Ready-to-wear really bores me and does not make me as happy as when I create avant-garde type of clothes. I really enjoy costuming more than ready-to-wear, because it’s really who I am. I had to do a lot of soul searching to finally realize that this is what I want to pursue. My goal is to work more in the entertainment industries around the world creating amazing and striking imagery for viewers.

Q: What’s a day-to-day life of Elena Slivnyak at IIMUAHII? A: Sometimes there is no day-to-day for me. Sometimes there is work non-stop for months at a time and then there are months where I’m not busy at all, and I usually take this time to myself and regroup for the next set of projects. I take on many different projects that keep my business afloat whether it’s a custom jacket for a client or a bigger project for someone in the entertainment industry.

Q: Speaking of the entertainment industry, your clothes appeared in “The Hunger Games: Mockingjay.” How did that come about?

A: One day I received an email from the costume designers of the film Kurt and Bob. They found my design company online and commissioned a few costumes from me based on what they saw in my sci-fi collection. It was an amazing experience to know that people of that status are actually noticing my work.

This helped me to make the decision to continue creating unusual and unique fashion.

Image from the IIMUAHII lookbook. Courtesy of Elena Slivnyak.

Q: IIMUAHII presented during LAFW 2016, what preparation was involved for the show? And can you tell us a bit about the collection?

A: I usually avoid fashion

week productions, because they are of no benefit to what I do and me. I decided to go through this one in L.A., so that I [could] invite my film industry contacts to view my new work up close and personal. The preparation was very grueling just like when you are participating in any fashion week event. I normally just produce a look book and send it out to various people around the world to get people [to] see my work, so this was not normal for me to do. The main reason for this decision was to go down there and make more contacts in the film and entertainment industry.

Q: In your opinion, do you think LAFW can match the hype of NYFW? A: I really don’t know. I think that NYFW has gone downhill from what it used to be and it doesn’t really interest me. LAFW is incomparable to NYFW, as it’s on a smaller scale, and I think they have a long way to go to match NYFW hype.

Q: Recently you were in San Francisco for an IBM Cloud and 360Fashion Network event, can you tell us about the event? And how was it?

A: I was approached by the organizers to participate in this event infused with technology and fashion. At that time I was working on a fashion tech accessory line with my business partner, and [I] thought this would be an amazing opportunity to showcase some of the designs. I love this world where fashion and technology [are] mixed. I feel closer to it than I am now to the existing fashion world, because it’s so futuristic and there are so many possibilities to do imaginative and innovative clothes and products.

I think I will be exploring this world more deeply in the future, because what I do goes hand-in-hand with it so well.

Q: What’s the best memory or experience you have from all of your success?

A: I think the most rewarding

The brand made its silver screen debut in “The Hunger Games: Mockingjay—Part 1.”

Courtesy of Elena Slivnyak.

part of my career is to have been working on costumes for “The Hunger Games: Mockingjay.” I get ecstatic when the fantasies in my head come alive into amazing look book creations, which I use to convey to the world who I am and how I’m feeling at the time. Being able to express myself through my art is more fulfilling than being financially stable at a nine to five job.

Q: Can you give any advice for the Academy of Art University students who want to pursue careers in the fashion industry?

A: Yes! My advice would be: Don’t wait for opportunities to come to you, always seek them out yourself. Sometimes all it takes is an email or a phone call to get what you want. Be persistent and blindly believe in what you do. If you’re passionate about your work, the world will notice. Don’t rely on others to teach you, the best knowledge comes from trying things out yourself. There will be people who don’t like what you do and you cannot let that discourage you from moving forward. I don’t think I would be where I am if I hadn’t got an amazing education from the Academy of Art University.

For more information about IIMUAHII by Elena Slivnyak, please visit http:// iimuahii.com.

Taufik Marasabessy is a fashion merchandising student at Academy of Art University.

san francisco | academy of art university |

December 2015 volume 2 | page 33

STYLE ALUMNI UPDATE: JACQUELINE RABÔT

Designing the clothes she loves

By Ian MacKintosh For the 2012 Graduation Fashion Show, Jacqueline Rabôt, 2012 B.F.A. fashion design, collaborated with Julie Seltzer, B.F.A. textile design, on a womenswear collection that was one of the highlights of the show. Abercrombie & Fitch was so impressed by her collection and portfolio that they offered her a design position after the show.

Q: What have you been doing since graduation?

A: I started my career working at Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister and have since transitioned to work as a designer at Free People.

Q: What do you love about your job?

A: I love that the company that I work for has a similar aesthetic to my own. It’s refreshing that I am able to envision myself wearing the clothing that I design.

Q: What is your average day like?

A: A day in the life at Free People is exhilarating. I find myself doing everything from mocking and draping on the form, sketching product for multiple deliveries, fitting on models, researching the latest trends and presenting our

work to the buyers and head of the company.

Q: Where have you found inspiration lately?

A: My main source of inspiration is thrifting and vintage shopping. There are some hidden gems of thrift stores in the Philadelphia area, and I can spend hours on end sorting through the used garments to find something rare and spectacular. I would urge anyone in the NYC area to check out the “China Through the Looking Glass Exhibit” at the Met—it was one of those exhibits that will stick with me for a long, long time.

Q: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

A: The memory that stands out most prominently was during those last hours of completing collection. I think I will always remember the intense scrambling to sew on that last bead and hem the final dress. I distinctly remember the chaos on the top floor of the Polk building and then the relief and joy once every garment was completed and handed in.

Q: What was your biggest challenge during your time as a student?

A: My greatest challenge was managing every aspect that senior year entails. I was juggling a part-time job, completing collection, working on my portfolio, attending four other classes, working on multiple side projects and applying to jobs (which some require expansive projects). I remember it as a whirlwind and if I stopped moving or slowed down, I would fall behind. Once the semester was completed, my hard work had paid off and every stressful moment was worth it.

than your boyfriend and your family, it’s important to get along. Add a stressful job in the mix and you’ll quickly realize the importance of a smile and even temper.

The chances that you will land your dream job directly out of school is rare. Be patient. You have your entire career ahead of you!

Q: What advice would you give to students?

A: To be open about the job that you take after graduating.

Ian MacKintosh is the Director of Public Relations & Special Events for the School of Fashion.

Q: What was the hardest fashion lesson you’ve learned?

A: To not overanalyze fashion.

It should in fact be very simple to criticize your work by asking yourself the question of “Is it beautiful?” I learned that from John Bauernfeind in the School of Fashion, and that is the mantra that I use when critiquing my work to this day.

Q: Any insider information from the fashion industry that you can share with fashion students today?

A: Personality and being level-headed is as important as being talented and creative.

When you’re working with co-workers day in and day out and you see them more

Jacqueline Rabôt. Courtesy of Jacqueline Rabôt.

ALUMNI UPDATE: JANEY CAO

A passion for original design

By School of Fashion PR Staff Q: What have you been doing since graduation?

A: After graduation, I stayed in San Francisco for a year working as a fashion designer at Alvarado Mills for my OPT. As soon as I returned to China, I found my first job as a fashion designer for

a brand called Five Plus at Trendy International Group in Guangzhou. During that period, I also took part in the Zac Posen for Five Plus Cooperation Project. I researched and [developed] new designs and followed up the process of fabric and design development. It was a great experience. After Five Plus, I worked as an assistant

of the English fashion design professor and textile instructor for [my] first year in ESMOD Guangzhou. During that time, I assisted and translated for the fashion design professor in second and third year classes, as well as the textile instructor for first year preparation and planning classes, translating school work from English to Chinese. That was a wonderful time working at the school.

And recently, I have been busy working at EXCEPTION de MIXMIND as a textile designer.

Q: What do you love about your job?

A: I love my job since I have a passion for original design.

EXCEPTION de MIXMIND is one of the most famous original fashion design companies in China. I work as a textile designer. I work with fabric and create new pattern design and use different techniques for my work, and I am always happy to see my design turn into real product.

2012 M.F.A. fashion design alumna Janey Cao. Courtesy of Janey Cao.

Q: What is your average day like?

A: My average day begins with coffee in the morning and

making a list of my goals for that day. Sometimes we have meetings and I end up working until 9 p.m., but usually I get out of work [at] about 6 p.m., so I relax and play the guitar in the evening.

my work from those textile classes in my interview for EXCEPTION de MIXMIND and got accepted. So that was my biggest surprise—that I could work as a textile designer as well as a fashion designer.

Q: Where have you found inspiration lately?

A: I have been finding inspiration from a Chinese painter called Peng Wei and Song dynasty art.

Q: What was the hardest fashion lesson that you’ve learned?

A: That would have been in my 3-D design class, as a student I found patternmaking was the biggest challenge, because sometimes it is difficult to make designs into real garments. I remember I spent more time on pattern making and sewing than designing.

Q: What is your favorite memory from your time at the School of Fashion?

A: My favorite memory from the School of Fashion would be my two dresses showcased during the spring show in 2011. As I remember, those dresses were from the 3-D design class and that was how I first learned the 3-D draping technique.

Q: What was the biggest surprise during your time as a student?

A: As a student, my biggest surprise was that I found textile design was my second favorite thing. The first being fashion design. I took applied textile 1 and 2, and I used

Q: What advice would you give to students?

A: My advice would be keep working hard; no pain, no gain. If you don’t understand, always ask. Someday you will be grateful for what you’ve learned from the School of Fashion at Academy of Art University. Know what you are good at, what you are most interested in. Always remember the three w’s—who, when, where and your statement for design. Be professional. Don’t give up if you love fashion.

page 34 | December 2015 volume 2 | academy of art university | san francisco

STYLE ALUMNI UPDATE: MICHAEL CARBAUGH

Inspired by the scents of nature

Peace fragrance from Sandoval. Courtesy of Michael Carbaugh.

By Isabelle Eder Michael Carbaugh, 2002 B.F.A. textile design alumnus and previous assistant design director at the School of Fashion, has launched a line of aromatic sprays called Sandoval Interior Aromatics, which are made in California.

Fragrances are trending at the moment as a way to express individuality and create a sense of escape. Now that we are heading into the winter season, people are switching their scents into more winter appropriate smells with warm accents such as wood. A few months ago, the trend analysis and product development students went on field trip to Tigerlily Perfumery in San Francisco’s Mission district to learn about the fragrance business from the point of view of a retail business owner and to get real world feedback from that retailer.

The School of Fashion wanted to learn more about Carbaugh and his role in the expanding world of scents, so we sat down for a chat.

Q: Tell us about Sandoval Interior Aromatics.

A: Sandoval is a line of interior aromatic sprays, inspired by the essence of global travel and the luxe and ease of the California lifestyle. Our intention is to create beautiful interior fragrances that not only smell great but also elevate your senses. Sandoval Interior Aromatics are hand made in small batches in California, using natural essential oils and absolutes that engage the science of nature.

Each glass bottle contains a natural crystal, charged in the light of the full moon, enhancing the intention of every

spray. We strive to create conscious, informed products that inspire and elevate you and your space. All of our products are made with natural, ethically harvested aroma therapeutic grade essential oils and distilled water. Our products are chemical free and safe for you and your space, actually enhancing your health and being. The foundation of our endeavors begins and ends by helping you create inspiring, customized spaces. Use our sprays to refresh your space, refresh linens and refresh yourself.

Elevate your space, elevate yourself with Sandoval.

Q: What inspired you to create the line of products?

A: The space in the market for a natural home/self fragrance.

There really wasn’t a natural/ conscious product like this on the market. I made them for a few years as gifts and for my own home, then decided to refine the blends and design a unique, modern packaging concept to bring the product to market.

Q: Have you enjoyed starting a new business?

A: I have enjoyed the excitement of making something that the public responds to.

It’s great working for myself, despite the challenges there have been so many great successes that make it exciting.

Knowing that people around the world are using Sandoval in their homes and on themselves is amazing!

Q: Where does your line retail?

A: Ron Robinson/ Fred Segal, ABC home, Alchemy Works and MOCA LA. Q: Any advice for those

Michael Carbaugh. Courtesy of Michael Carbaugh.

who are looking to launch a product?

A: Do your research and don’t rush it. Test your product.

Design fresh and unique packaging and marketing concepts. It took me about six months to nail the packaging and the blends. Make your product stand out from the crowd.

Q: What is next for you?

A: Expanding production, working with bigger factories to produce packaging, expanding my production space.

Rolling out new forms of the product and new blends.

Q: Any fun upcoming plans?

A: Building accounts, and going on a vacation to Colorado, for a wedding in Aspen.

Nature, nature, nature! As much as possible. Nature recharges and inspires me. It puts things into perspective!

Isabelle Eder is a B.F.A. Fashion Styling student.

STREET STYLE

Writing on emotions

By Alexandria Ceranski The definition of fashion contains the words “subject to change,” therefore it is always moving. When people hear the word fashion, their minds automatically go to clothing.

Fashion goes much deeper; it is in architecture, furniture, fine art, automobiles, the list is endless. It is the way we perceive or imagine something and make it real.

Having the ability to absorb the zeitgeist, be inspired by events that people create and inflict emotion; it is a tool that everyone uses whether they know it or not.

In history, there were always purposes for dressing. King Louis XIV of France’s court used fashion to implement an image of power and wealth.

His court members spent their life income on this court dress, but they did leave a lasting impact on fashion to this very day. Fashion’s ability to influence has been existing since the beginning of time, and only a select group of people can harness that.

Acting major Daidre Powell has mastered it, read more about her below!

Getting dressed in the morning is an activity that Powell takes to a whole new level. When speaking with her, she mentioned that clothes are a form of expression. Being an acting major, she is no stranger to portraying emotions to the public, whether it be her own or a character’s. Clothing and style are just objects to some people, many don’t even know why they dress the way they do. For someone like Powell, clothes can say

Brands included in the ensemble: H&M, Nordstrom, Buffalo Exchange and Old Navy.

Photo by Alexandria Ceranski.

her words that go physically unspoken. By not defining her style and fashion tastes to what is in the zeitgeist or what walks down the runway, she is thinking like an artist.

The true power of fashion can only be channeled by a particular group of people, but when it is, influential things happen. Powell’s look that captured my interest had the modern age’s love of black and a pop of color that added so much personality.

Q: How would you describe your style?

A: Well if my style had a name it would be called “Writing on emotions.”

Somewhat goth, with a little bit of life.

Q: Who is your style muse?

A: Feelings and emotions inspire my style, but I’m a vintage lover!

Q: How does your style reflect your personality?

A: It shows that I am outgoing, sad, in love, etc. My style speaks for my personality.

Q: What are some of your favorite places to shop?

A: This is a hard question. I shop wherever, just as long as it speaks to my current situation.

Above: Faux leather and gold accents are huge details appearing in the fall and winter trends. Photo by Alexandria Ceranski.

Right: Blocking fabrics and accenting them with embellishments or studs has been a trend that has survived for the past year. It’s variations and styling persuasions have changed, but the trend that was so famously named “Heavy Metal” has persisted through the ever changing world of fashion.

Photo by Alexandria Ceranski.

Alexandria Ceranski is a fashion journalism student and member of Beyond the Graphite.