Bringing a chinese brand to the uk market by Abbi Minchin

Synergy with Julie Hodson Manchester Metropolitan University Published on March 2016

Contents Page 1.0

Introduction (written by all - not included in word count)

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Literary Review 2.1 The Brand (words by Phoebe Hallas) 2.2 The UK Fashion Market (words by Melissa Hadley) 2.3 The Consumer (words by Francesca Stevenson) 2.4 Social Media Strategy (words by Megan Bradley) 2.5 The Retail Envrionment (words by Abbi Minchin)

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Donoo-1 (words by Phoebe Hallas) 3.1 Brand Philosophy 3.2 Links with Culture 3.3 Store Appraisal 3.3.1 Location 3.4 Celebrity Endorsement 3.4.1 Sung-Jin Park

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The UK Fashion Market (words by Melissa Hadley) 4.1 The Menswear Market 4.2 Selfridges Launch 4.3 Competitors 4.4 Gap and Market Opportunity 4.5 Why Should the Brand Come to the UK?

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The Target Consumer (words by Francesca Stevenson) 5.1 Adapting a Brand 5.1.1 “Glocalisation” 5.1.2 Donoo’s British Appeal 5.2 The Dilemma of the Male Shopper 5.2.1 Consumption 5.3 Sociological Influences 5.4 Selling to the Male Consumer 5.4.1 Buying Psychology 5.4.2 An Investigation into the Modern Male Shopper 5.5 Donoo’s British Launch

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Social Media Strategy (words by Megan Bradley) 6.1 The Consumer: How They Use Social Media 6.1.1 Instagram 6.1.2 Twitter 6.1.3 Facebook 6.2 Donooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Strategy 6.3 The #WearItWednesday Campaign

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The UK Store Launch (words by Abbi Minchin) 7.1 The Concept Store 7.1.1 Donooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pop-Up Store 7.2 The Retail Environment 7.2.1 Interactivity and Digital Technology 7.2.1.1 The Changing Room Initiative 7.2.2 Product Display 7.2.3 The Value of Service 7.3 The Strategy

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Conclusion (written by all - not included in word count)

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Appendices

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Reference List (by Phoebe Hallas)

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Reference List (by Melissa Hadley)

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Reference List (by Francesca Stevenson)

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Reference List (by Megan Bradley)

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Reference List (by Abbi Minchin) 51

1.0 Introduction (words by all) Donoo-1; referred to as Donoo, is a contemporary Chinese menswear brand. In working collaboratively with representatives internationally we have explored the potential launch of Donoo into the UK fashion market. Research into both the British and Chinese male consumer along with extensive reseach into technology such as social media and store layouts have allowed for a clear and concise justification behind the success of a possible launch of Donoo into the UK. The objective of the the project sees the use of research methods, both primary and secondary, being analysed and explored in order to create a successful and in depth analysis of the launch of a Chinese brand into the UK. In using extensive research we will enable what makes a successful brand and how to differentiate a launch in the UK from that of one in China. Extensive research into statistics, trends and media will find valued information to ensure that the launch will be highly successful and worthwhile. In looking at current theories over a number of platforms such as books, journals and online articles; precise and accurate decisions will be put into place for the success of the launch. Along with study of current theories and trends extensive primary research will be put into place though the medium of questionnaires, asked of the 18-25 year old Donoo consumer surrounding their shopping habits. Furthermore a store appraisal will be undertaken within a Shanghai Donoo store as a covert operation. This information will be invaluable in understanding the brand on a deeper, more personal level and seeing how the brand markets and expresses itself through a bricks and mortar store. Primary research will allow a much deeper understanding of the male consumer, in regards to both shopping habits but also the ideas and understanding of why they do what they do first hand. In undertaking a store walk followed by a survey, this research will give in depth knowledge not readily available in academic texts, journals and articles . This has allowed our launch plan and store layout for the UK Donoo stores to create a retail environment that will capture the consumer to its best potential. Whilst there has been research dating back to the 19th Century regarding the male apparel consumer, much of the available information regarding men’s shopping habits are based on assumptions or gender stereotypes. These stereotypes claim that ‘men hate shopping’ and therefore research aims to prove this. However, recent figures show that the 21st century male is spending more on fashion than ever before, making it a prime time for Donoo to explore the British menswear market. This being said, the male consumer is still something of an enigma, which primary research and the analysis of secondary data within this report will aim to uncover. By thoroughly investigating the wants of their target market, a strong plan for Donoo’s move to the UK can be proposed. In depth research into the UK fashion market and more specifically, the menswear market will help Donoo understand the environment in which they are competing in. By collating facts and figures illustrating the type of environment the company will emerge into, will distinguish whether there is a gap in the market for Donoo, and how they will be able to survive as a brand. Furthermore, by explicitly looking into the menswear market and how the market is evolving, it will also assist in understanding the consumer and their buying habits. It is also important to recognise the nature of Selfridges and Donoo’s main competitors in the market, which will be undertaken through primary research. All of which research will justify why the brand should come to the UK.

2.0 Literary Review 2.1 The Brand (words by Phoebe Hallas) As a brand Donoo support a number of theories in regards to the placement philosophy behind the brand, why they do what they do and how it ensures consumer loyalty. The use of a celebrity within brand marketing, is of big importance in the success of a brand. Using a celebrity can make or break a brand. ‘the primary benefit of using a celebrity endorser is heightened awareness for the brand’ (strategic brand management) with a 300% rise in the use of celebrities. Rosenbaum-elliott., Percy, L. and Pervan, S, (2015) place emphasis on the power of the celebrity fitting perfectly with the brands social language and personal handwriting. their purchasers must completely relate whilst also ensuring positive representation of the brand. There is a clear differentiation of what entices a consumer when entering the retail environment, Cohen (2005) made reference to the key factors of consumer buying habits, stating that at 62% colour is the most important factor in first impressions, followed by price, comfort and fit. Customers feel that should the brand get the perfect store environment, they really connect to their consumer and understand their needs and desires on a deeper level. Brand personality and social language provides an emotional identity or a brand. A brand personality allows the brand to differentiate themselves from other brand and create customer loyalty, an important factor int he success of a brand. through the use of their brand personality motivates consumer spending habits and subsequently relate to hedonic and cognitive factors. (Schiffmn and Kanuk, 2014).

2.2 The UK Fashion Market (words by Melissa Hadley) Mintel reports that the menswear clothing market has seen remarkable growth over the past few years, it ‘has seen sales rise by 22% in the last five years to reach £13.5 billion’. By 2019 menswear will reach £16.5 billion as more retailers (online and multi channel) grow the male clothing offer (2015). Gender is becoming more irrelevant now then ever before, men are now a fashion conscious consumer ‘with males aged 16-24 equally as likely as young women (50%) to have bought clothes in the last three months’ (2015). Braddock et al. state that ‘Retailers must act now to take advantage of this flourishing market’, Verdict highlight that the gap in the market has stemmed from London Collections: Men. It has been seen as a ‘pivotal’ moment for the menswear market, it indicates ‘the strength and growing interest in British men’s fashion’. Passport further recognizes that fast fashion retailers grow in the menswear market due to their ability to produce affordable products for the male consumer who bases their ‘apparel choices primarily on their social image’ (2016). So taking Zara’s market level being similar to Donoo’s, the brand must understand that Zara builds up a ‘sense of prestige through location’ and that it places itself near high end brands such as ‘Ted Baker and Fat Face’ to fulfill this.

2.3 The Consumer (words by Francesca Stevenson) Launching a Chinese brand into the UK requires insight and analysis of the British consumer in order to ensure success. Warden et al. note how an ‘insufficient understanding’ of the market and local consumer values can be the decider of whether a foreign brand is welcomed in its new location (2012). For Donoo, as a menswear brand, this is even more valuable. There has been a large amount of research into the male consumer and how they shop and it is evident that changing social norms have induced a new trend of 3

males whom are more interested in shopping and fashion (Bakewell & Mitchell, 2004). However, it is similarly still apparent that male shoppers behave in a very different way to females. From proposals of male-only retail outlets (Underhill, 1999) to stores with a built in bar (Trish, 2004), many attempts to make shopping more enjoyable for men have been suggested. Porter supports Warden’s claims but debated that the international success of a brand is credited to their ‘strategic superiority’- a thorough and developed plan for the products and services they will provide (1990) and thus would suggest that a detailed plan of how to target British males would ensure the success of Donoo in the UK. The whole riddle of the male fashion consumer however is underlined by the social stigma surrounding the ‘feminine’ aspects of shopping (Tuncay & Otnes, 2008) and thus it can be argued that the main aim of Donoo’s launch strategy should focus on combatting this stigma. Therefore, in depth market research of the modern male shopper needs to be conducted in order to launch Donoo to the wants and needs of the Britsh man in 2016.

2.4 Social Media (words by Megan Bradley) The following sources and information should support any comparisons drawn between the UK and Chinese consumer markets within this report, with a large focus on what these comparisons mean for the launch of a Chinese brand in the UK market. There will also be a large focus on how marketing to men is an activity that requires a clear and strong focus on the unconscious and conscious needs of male consumers, and that men cannot simply be blanketed under a ‘marketing to consumers’ cloud, but the very fact that they are men alters marketing activities entirely for those operating male focused services and goods. This first source is an online article from the London-based Digital Marketing agency ‘Make-it-rain’ where Simon Green writes a very industry driven account about the nature of social media within marketing and how it is of particular use within the male fashion market. Green draws attention to the benefits of the use of social media, when tuned into to the unconscious and conscious needs of men within the retail environment, a theory also supported by Mark Tungate in his ‘Branding toolkit’ of his 2008 ‘Branded Male’ book, can bring brands. He largely summarises that digital marketing, and social media in particular has been the imperative element to success and growth within the fashion industry overall in recent years, and in terms of growth, most importantly within, what could be argued, the most stubborn consumer segment, men’s fashion. Other resources quantified the need for brands launching in the UK to invest in social media strategies as an underlying support, and additional feature to their operations by outlining the current state of the UK market with relevance to its online activity. Simon Kemp in his article, ‘Are Millennial’s are ditching Facebook?’ published in January of this year, stated that, as of January 2016, the number of global active social media users stood at 2.307 Billion, a 10% increase from the previous year, and that the number of active social media users in the UK, as of January 2016, stood at 38 Million, and the number of social mobile users at 33 Million, both numbers that are near and beyond half of the UK’s entire population. Warren Knight, on his self-titled marketing website, further looked into the same study and found that in the UK alone the number of social media users had grown by 6% since January 2014, and Pew research center updated data findings on their website in 2014 that shows the millennial market to be the most active users of online social media platforms, with 89% of all adult users being within the millennial demographic, further evidencing that a UK launch for the Donoo-1 brand is as viable now as it will ever be.

2.5 The Retail Environment (words by Abbi Minchin) Christiaans and Almendra (2012) examine the significance of retail design, and its importance in both developing and extending the communication process between brand and consumer, and improving the customer experience. They found that retail mirrors society, and with Western societies currently searching for new experiences, needs should be acknowledged by brands to keep them in competition. To gain success in the market, there needs to be an understanding of what will work aesthetically within the space provided and how it will perform both functionally and commercially. They emphasise the importance of consumer perception and experience in the design process, which can range from one person to another (Quartier et al. 2008). Jeffrey and Perkins (2015) believe that increased integration will force businesses to change their method when evaluating digital influence and performance in the retail environment. It was recorded that consumers enjoy the use of digital devices on their path to purchase, with 41% of shoppers claiming that digital engagement makes their shopping trip easier. This changing social dynamic forces retailers to be innovative in order to impact on how products are consumed. New technologies shift the boundaries of traditional retail and allow for new ways of interaction (Christiaans and Almendra, 2012), constantly revolutionising the retail process.

1.0 Donoo-1 (words by Phoebe Hallas) As a design oriented menswear brand that combines culture and style, Donoo strive to provide high quality tailoring within a reasonable price point. They work closely with the Chinese culture and art scene to create collections that relate to their consumers daily life. Their strong values place emphasis on the draping, cut and design of the garments making Donoo a retailer that is sleek and stylish but affordable. Donoo pride themselves on being the go to retailer for the fashion and media industry but also have a strong recognition within the arts and culture fields. ‘We are hoping to connect the high-end design and our daily life, not only from clothing, but life-style, art and culture also’ (Donoo-1, No Date).

1.1 Brand Philosophy Donoo’s strong brand philosophy aids with their success, their website features articles and videos surrounding agriculture and the working men of China, this gives their consumers an insight into the company’s background and this enables them to tie with the brand on a personal level. Donoo focus on the emotional aspect of consumer behaviour. Brands often strive to create positive emotional responses associated with feelings such as familiarity and well-being, as, this emotional attachment, gives them a competitive advantage by inducing a personal position within the consumer (Rosenbaum-Elliott, Percy, and Pervan, 2015, p.7). Donoo do this successfully, and create a deep emotional attainment on a number of levels. As a private label, Donoo are able to create garments that are designed specifically for their consumer, this allows the vision and feel of the brand to be continued into the clothes that they sell. They are very clever in creating a lifestyle around their brand, focusing not only on stylish design but the wider world, creating this whole lifestyle ethos their consumers create a relationship with the brand. By identifying their consumers’ emotional motives behind purchases drives customer satisfaction thus leading to long-term relationships and retention (Schiffman and Kanuk, 2014, p 42). As a brand Donoo explore the techniques used over the fashion industry to allow and ensure all design details fashion modern china. They incorporate traditional and modern China to create clothing that reflects the sharpness of the current Chinese climate. Clean lines and sophisticated fabrics allow Donoo to create collections that really connect with their consumer. By putting so much thought into their fabric compositions and manufacturing techniques it further puts Donoo into a top quality retailing category. Along with their blog posts which serve an active part in cultural, social and political developments, Donoo continue to prove they are more than just a clothing retailer.

1.2 Links with Culture Donoo’s blog page featured on their website has a current focus on single farmers along with a heavy emphasis on industry and agriculture, specifically the notion of dynamic farming. The ‘single farmers’ campaign was launched in 2014 and focuses on a very specific consumer, carefully selected by Donoo as their main demographic. In relation to the Chinese market as a whole, the single farmers demographic is a large one. Research suggests that the success of a brand is more likely if the consumer feels like their complex lifestyle has been understood (Cohen, 2005, p 8). In creating a whole campaign dedicated to the single farmers consumer they are projecting themselves to their consumers on a deeper level. In keeping with their constant association with not only fashion but also art and cultural events, advancements and changes, Donoo’s blog features posts that surround the subjects in detail giving the brand a depth not often found in other brands. This depth will allow Donoo to expand into new markets by using the power of personal communication. 7

Their website’s current focus on ‘Dynamic Farming’; a modern farming technique that emphasises mystical and spiritual perspectives in farming, a theory founded by Rudolph Steiner further proves Donoo’s active input and research into the latest phenomenon (Steiner, 2016). In Donoo’s discussion of this farming technique they are ever proving that they are in touch with their consumer and frequently research the latest developments in farming, industry and agriculture to ensure they are consistently in-keeping with their demographic on a much deeper level than any other competitors.

1.3 Store Appraisal A store appraisal was conducted within the Shanghai Donoo store housed within The Kerry Centre Mall, Jing’an District on the 29th February 2016. Conducted by English student Charlie Bridges partaking in a study abroad Scheme in Shanghai through the medium of a personal communication. A covert store appraisal allowed for a true feel of the stores aesthetic without bias. Donoo’s stores have been likened to being a ‘city within a city’; they create an interesting atmosphere in their shops and make them highly design oriented, rather than solely marketing themselves as a clothing retailer. Their stores are minimal and contemporary with a colour pallet of white, greys and black, in keeping with the colour and style of the garments they sell. Concrete floors on varying levels give the store an interesting feel creating an experience more than just one of simple shopping for the customer. The lighting in the store sets a mood and atmosphere that both engages and interests consumers. Donoo’s mantra places strong emphasis on the lifestyle surrounding their consumers and by creating an atmosphere different to competing stores their consumers will be kept interested and loyal (Bridges, 2016). Donoo’s strong focus on style and aesthetics is evident in their store layout and the feel of the brand as a bricks and mortar store in general. Their website is simple, stylish and easy to navigate giving it a sense of ease and sophistication; an ideology reflected closely within their stores. Simple yet stylish shop fittings, clean and concise lines throughout the store to give it the effortless stylish feel which supports the company mantra. Purchaser instinct sees consumers instantly drawn to style, including colour, which is then followed by price, comfort and fit (Cohen, 2005, p.33). The stylish and easy to navigate stores are layout perfectly for the Donoo consumer of males, everything is in plain sight and spacious making the shopping experience simple and easy. All styles and colours out on display in keeping with the theory that these are the things and draw the eye first. Donoo show through the layout of their stores this is something they have closely thought about in regards to their consumer, and the recognition that style is a big part of their lifestyle further aids Donoo’s success in being a go to retailer for the Chinese mens’ consumer.

1.3.1 Location Often found in a high fashion malls surrounded by designer stores, Donoo put themselves in a position around major designer stores such as Paul Smith and Loewe. In doing this Donoo are marketing themselves to the higher end consumer giving them a sense of brand exclusivity associated with designer labels. Their placement within high end malls surrounded by designer shops will see Donoo gaining similar consumers to the high end brands, thus allowing for a higher price point for their items. This allows Donoo to market themselves to as an aspirational brand for the male consumer (Bridges, 2016).

1.4 Celebrity Endorsement The importance of celebrity endorsement for success within a brand is recognised strongly by Donoo, who frequently feature a celebrity within their marketing.There is a clear link with using the power of a celebrity 8

and an increased traffic towards a brand, with 53% of consumers making a purchase as a result of an endorsement deal (Dwivedi, johnson, and mcdonald, 2015). This creates strong reasoning behind Donoo’s use of celebrity endorsement as a fairly new brand, as celebrities can attracts attention from previously unexplored markets. However it is also imperative that Donoo use celebrities who reflect their brand mantra, ethos and handwriting perfectly. In order to justify the use of a celebrity to endorse a brand, there must be a strong link established between the brand equity and endorser qualities (Dwivedi, johnson, and mcdonald, 2015). Donoo are aiming for their consumer to create a relationship with the brand, which is more likely to occur if they identify with the person they have used for the endorsement (Danesvery and Schwer, 200).

1.4.1 Sung-Jin Park Their latest celebrity endorsement deal with Sung-Jin Park, a footballer and model from South Korea, his effortlessly cool style and flawless face show his perfect association with the brand. His interests outside of modelling, most notably playing for the South Korean football team sees him fitting perfectly with Donoo’s focus on lifestyle just as much as fashion itself. For a celebrity to succeed in bringing new consumers whilst also creating a buzz and interest around a brands’ attributes such as accomplishments and lifestyle choices were found to be the most successful (Cohen, 2005, P.63). Sung-Jin pack shows perfectly accomplishments and lifestyles choices are key in choosing a celebrity endorser.

2.0 The UK Fashion Market (words by Melissa Hadley) The nature of the UK fashion market is energetic and fast paced, it is said to be ‘one of the most competitive fashion markets in Europe’ in regards to its structure and trading characteristics. Thus, making it ‘the most difficult for a foreign fashion retailer to enter and secure market penetration’ (Moore, 1998, pp. 154 – 154). With that being said, studies have proved that in the UK there is a ‘systematic bias in favour of products of particular countries’ based on a number of variables, such as the economic development of countries. Consumers tend to be more favourable of those countries that have a high level of economic development, such as China. (Rugimbana, Nwankwo, and Nwanko, 2002). Furthermore, despite Mintel reporting that ‘smaller brands are less likely to be trusted’ (2015) they do ‘often score well on differentiation’ (2015), which will work positively for Donoo entering a foreign market, with correct marketing they can gain trust from the male consumer investing in the brand. As implied by Ostrow and Smith in Bickle’s book ‘Fashion marketing: Theory, principles and practice’ ‘Image is a mental perception or impression held by an individual about himself, about others, or about products or services’ (Bickle, 2010), so Donoo must portray the correct image to encourage the male consumer to trust the brand. For example, according to the systematic bias that consumers favour products from countries that have high levels of economical development, Donoo could exaggerate this aspect of the brand and its Chinese heritage. As well as implementing the idea that the brand combines ‘realism, comfort and practicality’ (Easey, 2008), which it clearly displays, being largely influenced by agriculture and functionality. Mike Easey outlines that consumers are requiring styles, which are more understated.

2.1 Menswear Market The emerging and ever growing menswear market, has ‘seen sales rise by 22% in the last five years to reach £13.5 billion, driven by a growing interest in men’s fashion and more retailers expanding into menswear’ (Mintel, 2015), which only indicates how a menswear brand will strive in the current UK menswear retail 9

environment. With further forecasts ‘that menswear will reach £16.5 billion by 2019 as more multichannel and online retailers grow their men’s clothing offer’ (Mintel, 2015). The menswear market is claiming to have a massive impact on the UK economy and jobs available (Marriott, 2016), making it a prime opportunity for Donoo to launch in the UK, providing more jobs to the British public and contributing to positive economic growth. With gender becoming less of a contributing factor in fashion, and increased fluidity breaking gender stereotypes, men are becoming a fashion conscious consumer, ‘with males aged 16-24 equally as likely as young women (50%) to have bought clothes in the last three months’ (Mintel, 2015). With this in mind, it is important to remember that despite the metrosexual male becoming more prominent, males are still shopping for male clothes and male items. Donoo engages this and will further be discussed in it’s launch plan, as men shop in a more ‘hit- and – run’ (Lea-Greenwood, 2008, pp. 61 – 61) style, or are described as ‘hunter-gatherer shoppers’, ‘They do not need to see a number of different ideas’ (Lea-Greenwood, 2008, pg 61). Donoo will further have to be aware that men are still very cautious of how much they spend on clothes and they are not as confident as women when it comes to buying (Mintel, 2015). Britain is said to have ‘always been good at menswear’ (pure London, 2015), for example heritage goods have been a massive aspect of British culture, from Savile Row suits to Barbour jackets - Britain is home to tradition. Although Oliver Spencer claims that’s ‘we haven’t showcased it well’ (Pure London, 2015), until the rise of London Collections: Men, which has managed to instill a buzz for menswear, with a fashion event purely for men, it almost justifies why men should care about their appearance. Thus, giving menswear brands a platform to showcase their products or in Donoo’s case, a platform to attract attention to the brand and get their name recognized. With all eyes supposedly being on London for Menswear (Pure London, 2015), Donoo has the potential and opportunity to become familiarized to the British consumer.

2.2 Selfridges Launch Donoo will be launched in all Selfridges stores across the UK, which is fitting considering the changes Selfridges has made regarding menswear. Selfridges has recently tried to re invent the store as a destination for menswear (The Business Desk, 2015), as of September 2014 their Birmingham store underwent a ‘£20 million facelift’ in order to make Selfridges more of a ‘male haven’ (The Business Desk, 2015). The space covers 25,000 square feet, equating to the whole of the second floor and is said to maximize sales by 20%, with the menswear section currently making ‘up a fifth of the store’s overall sales’ (The Business Desk, 2015). Selfridges has quickly identified the transition to menswear being popularized and in higher demand than previous years, so have taken the opportunity to capitalize on this, by offering more to men. The menswear department in the Birmingham store includes high end designer labels such as Michael Kors, Guiseppe Zanotti and Paul Smith, with Burberry also opening its very first in-store boutique. It is important to note that Donoo’s location within the Selfridges store will be positioned near these high end designer brands, so consumers will understand and identify their market position. It will immediately be seen as a high end brand and the location will further underpin the target market. Mintel further distinguishes the importance of location, using Zara as an example, saying that ‘Zara manages to build up a sense of prestige through location’ (Mintel, 2016), the company positions itself near high end brands like Ted Baker and Fat Face, Zara also builds an aspirational and exclusive brand image by not advertising ‘as much as other brands’ (Mintel, 2016). After Donoo’s launch, it may benefit the company to take on a similar marketing strategy to Zara’s, this will build their brand image to make it feel more exclusive, premium and sophisticated.

2.3 Competitors In regards to targeting Donoo’s target market, Jay Diamond et al outline in their book ‘Fashion Retailing’ the concept of ‘Lifestyle profiling’. It is said that the ‘VALS (Values, Attitudes and Lifestyles) segments table identifies each segment, defines specific individual characteristics of each, lists what motivates these types, and describes the nature of the purchases they are likely to make’ (Diamond et al 2015). From looking at the VALS segments table, it can be suggested that Donoo’s target consumer has the potential to be ‘Innovators’. Their characteristics include being ‘successful, sophisticated with high esteem’ and their motivations include ‘Image, new ideas and technology’ and their purchases will be ‘upscale, niche products and services’ (Diamond et al 2015). With this in mind, it may be useful to look at some of Donoo’s competitors, who will also be ‘innovators’ such as All Saints and COS, to see how they target their consumers in the UK market in regards to the VALS segments table. All Saints is notoriously known for having ‘a mission to create an image that blends culture, fashion and music’ (Fashion Review, 2011). The aesthetic of All Saints appears similar to Donoo’s; the colour palette being a mix of greys as well as beiges, and ‘attention being paid to elegant, architectural, sharp edge, clothing and vintage style pieces’ (Fashion Review, 2011). Their pricing strategies further fall in a similar range to Donoo, with their cheapest item falling at around £15.00 and most expensive being £700.00. The way All Saints attracts their target consumer is by being consistent in their brand image and having a sharp edge and attitude - this is a major motivator for the ‘innovator’ consumer. They also have strong links with the music industry, they use this factor as a way to ‘brush off traditional marketing campaigns to better communicate its brand values’ (Mortimer, 2014), again this connects to the innovator consumer as they’re motivated by new ideas and technology. All Saints music video with band ‘Blonde Redhead’s’ which promotes their Christmas clothing collection, would be more likely to attract their particular consumer, as it highlights the ‘design and craftsmanship of AllSaints’ leather jackets’ (Mortimer, 2014), implementing the idea that their products are ‘upscale’. COS is a brand for males and females ‘who want modern, functional, considered design’ the brand creates pieces that are ‘timeless’ and ‘understated’ (cosstores.com, 2016) with styles that are inspired by ‘architecture, graphics, design and arts’ (Walker, 2012). Their pricing strategy lies in the middle market, lower than all All Saints, with their cheapest item at £5.00 and most expensive item at £200.00, with a similar brand image to Donoo and affordable pricing Donoo should be aware COS has the potential to be their main competitor. COS has a unique marketing strategy in the sense that it does not advertise its new collections, it shares directly with ‘its audience via its website and a biannual printed publication’ (Howarth, 2014), it further sponsors events to advertise the brand. The lack of advertisement gives the brand an exclusive and high end image, which is what the ‘innovator’ consumer is looking for. Marie Honda, the managing director of COS explicitly explains that their consumer is ‘very aware of how they spend their money and what they buy into, so they really appreciate value for money’ (Howarth, 2014), again this mirrors an ‘innovators’ buying behaviors as their purchases will be ‘upscale’ with a desire for ‘niche products and services’.

2.4 Gap and Market Opportunity As previously mentioned, the menswear sector its vastly developing, with Mintel reporting that ‘that menswear will reach £16.5 billion by 2019 as more multichannel and online retailers grow their men’s clothing offer’ (Mintel, 2015), making the growth ‘25.7 per cent in the five years to 2019’ (Braddock, Teasdale, and Hershey, 2015). Verdict retail added that ‘in 2016 we forecast menswear expenditure growth

will exceed womenswear for the first time since 1998, reaching £11.1bn’ (2016). Verdict reports that men are now more confident and experimental in what they wear and more accepting of unknown brands (2016). For Donoo this underlines an opportunity to engage the male shopper considering their growing acceptance to male fashion, but even more so to their acceptance of ‘un known’ brands. Verdict reinforce this – ‘Retailers must act now to take advantage of this flourishing market’ (Braddock, Teasdale, and Hersey, 2015). The current gap in the market and business opportunity for Donoo derives from the male consumer having an aspiration to ‘improve ones social image or prospects of career advancement’ (Passport, 2016). Fast fashion retailers grow in the menswear market due to their ability to produce affordable products for the male consumer who bases their ‘apparel choices primarily on their social image’ (Passport, 2016). Donoo, would appeal more to the ‘working professionals’ as it is believed that the quality of clothing is ‘valued more than the ability to look different’ (Passport, 2016), thus these consumers will be more likely to spend ‘more per item in order to purchase high-quality apparel’ (Passport, 2016). However, Donoo has the potential to appeal to both consumers, the working professionals and the consumers who choose products with the intention to improve ones’ social image. Verdict also refers to London Collections: Men as a ‘pivotal’ moment for the menswear market, it indicates ‘the strength and growing interest in British men’s fashion’ (Verdict Retail, 2016) and that the ‘high street must take advantage of this spotlight on the menswear market and satisfy the growing demand for affordable, trend-led pieces’ (Verdict Retail, 2016).

2.5 Why Should the Brand Come to the UK? From the information presented it can be concluded that the UK market is an appropriate market for Donoo to launch into. The UK fashion market is one of the most competitive markets within Europe, but also one of the fastest growing markets regarding menswear. The popularization and high demand in the menswear market is claiming to gave an immense impact on the UK economy and on the jobs that are available. Britain is understood to have always been strong in the menswear department, which positively corresponds to the newly fashion conscious male consumer, Donoo can use this opportunity and capitalize on this. Furthermore, the brand can easily compete with rival competitors by exaggerating their focus for agriculture and functionality in their apparel. Mike Easey confirms this ideology by stating in his book ‘The Importance of Fashion Retailing’ that the ‘store image can create loyal customers who may provide a measure of stability in sales income and profit’ (Easey, 2008).

3.0 The Target Consumer (words by Francesca Stevenson) Donoo’s target consumers are males aged 18- 24 who value the status of semi-designer labels, with enough disposable income to invest in branded garments. This consumer segment is often referred to as the ‘Millennials’ (See Appendix 9.1); the group of individuals born between 1980 and 2000 whom marketers believe have very different ‘priorities and expectations’ from previous generations due to the digital age they’ve grown up in. (Goldman Sachs, 2016) Through applying ACORN’s consumer segmentation, Donoo’s ideal consumer in the British market would be category 2E-20, ‘Mixed Metropolitan Areas’. These individuals are young, starting out in their professional careers and have a disposable income (see Figure 1) but not are particularly affluent and technology is a key aspect in their lives. (Acorn, 2016) A Euromonitor report investigating the male apparel consumer notes how the Millennials are ‘more willing to experiment with their personal style’ due to their rising prosperity and their deep involvement with social media, where personal appearance is constantly on display. (2015) It is also no secret that the male consumer is rapidly developing and with global menswear sales expected to reach $480bn by 2019 (WGSN, 12

2015) it is a great time for Donoo to make the cross over to the UK menswear market. However, it is of upmost importance that the brand firmly understands the British male consumer they are aiming to sell to.

Figure 1. A graph displaying the average gross income ($) by age group in 2014 (Mintel, 2015)

3.1 Adapting the Brand 3.1.1 Glocalisation As a foreign brand, it is imperative that Donoo adapt to British consumer requirements. ‘Glocalisation’ refers to the adaptation of multinational corporations to the new local cultures they’re launching in (Matusitz, 2015). Warden et al. believe that an ‘insufficient understanding of local values’ can lead to the failure of an internationally expanding brand, although they also note that adopting new foreign concepts runs the risk of abandoning ‘home market core values’ (2012). It is for this reason that Porter (1990) developed a new concept of international competitive advantage for companies. He argued that it wasn’t ‘comparative advantage factors’ (e.g. price, cost or productivity) that was causing certain companies to succeed, instead it was their level of ‘strategic superiority’. With a developed international strategy comes efficiency and the ability to provide ‘exactly the types of products and services that are needed, wanted and desired by their carefully defined international target markets’. He believed that this can put the company ahead of the genuine local businesses.

3.1.2 Donoo’s British Appeal Whilst it appears that glocalisation is an important strategy for Donoo, there is argument that the relevance of globalisation, localisation and glocalisation, respectively, all depend on the meanings behind the products or services that are being transferred to a new culture. Merz, He and Alden (2008) argued that goods with a more functional meaning can easily be transferred through globalisation (keeping the brand mantra and techniques the same regardless of the country or culture they are being sold in), whereas goods with a more symbolic meaning require more glocalisation or localisation (adapting the brand’s voice to suit the new culture). When this is applied to Donoo’s offering of menswear apparel, there are two possible ways to interpret the approach. On one hand, the offering of clothing can be seen as functional: men want/ need clothes and therefore it is a concept that is global and easily transferable from country to country. On the other, Donoo’s brand identity is more symbolic, its’ style, heritage and philosophy need to be translated to the new local market. It is for this reason that thorough investigation into British male consumption habits and desires is vital for the brand. 13

In spite of this however, there is evidence that Donoo may already be relevant and fitting for the Western market. Karl Gerth notes how the shopping experience in China is now much the same as in America and Europe (2010:5). He states that the Chinese consumer is now ‘independent, rational and individualistic’, exactly how the more Western purchasers are. As a modern menswear brand with a strong philosophy and youth presence, it can be assumed that Donoo will already provide a consumer experience that is applicable to the British market. This being said, the menswear market is not the easiest to grasp.

3.2 The Dilemma of the Male Shopper The male consumer is a consumer segment that has succumb to a large degree of research in recent years due to the mass change in society that has seen much of the older theories rewritten.

3.2.1 Consumption As previously mentioned, the menswear market is going from strength to strength, even surpassing womenswear in its’ growth rate (See Figure 2). In their 2015 report, market research firm Euromonitor also identified how male customers are ‘brand and status’ driven when purchasing clothing, something that has not changed from reports in the past. This desire for luxury and status may explain why menswear spending is on the rise (males are very significant in the luxury segment, having a CAGR of 5% between 2010-15) but there are also many theories as to how the values of Western societies drive the male need for prestige.

3.3 Sociological Influences Many of the modern reports on male shoppers note that ‘cultural attitudes’ towards male shopping, grooming and general appearance have changed, but it should be examined how and why this has occurred. (Euromonitor, 2015)

Figure 2. Graph showing mens & women’s wear yearly growth (Euromonitor, 2015).

Geert Hofstede (1983) used four criteria to characterise consumers’ behaviour in their respective culture; individualism- collectivism, power distance, uncertainty avoidance and masculinity- femininity. Whilst each of these four classifications have an impact on the behaviour of humans as consumers, for the purpose of this essay the focus will be on the ‘masculinity- femininity’ or ‘gender roles’ classification. Hofstede refers to the division of the gender roles within societies and the effect that this has on how and what each sex purchases. In some societies there are very clear cut definitions of male and female expectations and values whereas others are more relaxed and the gender roles are more fluid. Hofstede then takes his four criterion and evaluates them against five factors, again we will just look at the gender roles in these terms.

If we apply Hofstede’s theory to the British male consumer, then the following assumptions can be made. The information that a brand emits regarding itself should be tailored to the male market and products should be ‘made with these pronounced sex roles in mind’ in order to be successfully disseminated. As for the gender values within British society, there is now much more acceptance to subverting the traditional stereotypes of gender, but there is still a general consensus on how men are expected to behave, as highlighted in the British Social Attitudes Survey (See Appendix 9.2). This also influences consumption patterns as, with apparel in particular, the garments should be designed to favour males and their preferences. Purchase behaviour argues that ‘attribute orientation’ should be directed towards males and the way they shop. Both males’ and females’ affinity and acceptance toward new ideas will be affected by whether the new concepts have ‘gender implications’ that go against the dominant ideology of their society. (Samli, 1995) As noted, Hofstede’s theories are harder to apply to the complex society of Britain today, as there is a diversity of views and less rigid definitions of gender. However, male shoppers still prescribe to much of the masculine stereotypes in terms of what they wear and how they buy it. In a study of heterosexual male shoppers, Tuncay & Otnes found that males suffer from what they coined ‘identity related vulnerability’ due to the idea that shopping is still perceived as a ‘feminine’ activity. Despite the respondents being fashion consumers, they felt as though by doing so they were ‘violating cultural norms of masculinity’ (2008). This leads to the examination of how retailers can make the shopping experience more socially acceptable for men.

3.4 Selling to the Male Consumer In order to combat the stigma surrounding male shoppers, it appears that a brands focus should be less about the clothing and more about the experience and offering to the consumer. Though there have been extreme suggestions from the likes of Underhill (1999), whom believed that male only retail districts were necessary for men to enjoy shopping (see Appendix 9.3), there is theory and evidence to support more male-orientated shopping destinations.

3.4.1 Buying Psychology Pellegrin argues that the key to getting males to purchase is ‘less about the product and more about customer service, store design and the way the total shopping experience impacts and reinforces a man’s desire to return to the store again and again.’ (2009) This argument has been reinforced by market researchers Euromonitor, as they note how omni-channel selling strategies are more important than ever for the ‘digitally-savvy’ male consumer; ‘one in six male shoppers under 35 has used a mobile device to shop for clothes whilst in store’ (Mintel,2015). They also support Pellegrin’s belief by stating that ‘those who choose to invest in creating retail spaces dedicated solely to men, while providing a comfortable and engaging shopping experience, will be best equipped to capitalise on this expanding market.’ (2015) Pellegrin’s integral argument throughout Branding the Man is that retailers must understand male buyer’s psychology in order to provide a shopping experience that is enjoyed by men. He refers to a need of understanding who the consumer is, but also who he wants to become. ‘A man will buy if he believes that his purchase will contribute to his well-being’ but whilst Pellegrin notes this is mostly referring to the product offering, he argues that it is the ‘store and the branded experience’ that really secures a male buyer.

3.4.2 An Investigation into the Modern Male Shopper Between 9th February and 6th March 2016, a combination of overt observation and questionnaires were conducted on thirteen British males aged 18- 24 (to reflect Donoo’s target market). The observation involved the researcher monitoring the route taken by the male participant as they shopped in the Manchester Zara store. The results can be seen n Appendix 9.4. Following the observation, a questionnaire was then conducted to find out how the participants found the in-store experience, but also to see, as males, to what extent they noticed the layout and visual merchandising of the store, i.e. ‘7. Did you notice where the accessories (bags, shoes, etc) were displayed?’. As displayed in Appendix 9.5, there appeared to be a variety of answers amongst the participants, with no clear cut ‘truth’ of what males want. For example, seven of the males said they preferred items mixed on displays, whereas 6 preferred blocking by garment type. Again this mix of opinion was evident when participants were asked to think of a store that they particularly enjoy shopping in, although department stores such as Selfridges and Debenhams were mentioned a few times, supporting past research such as that by Torres et al, which found that males felt that department stores ‘offer the variety in price ranges, quality of merchandise and merchandise selection they desire’ (2001). This being said, only having a subject pool of thirteen is not a representative figure, making it hard to apply the results to all males. However, producing qualitative data gives us higher validity and more in-depth insight into male consumers.

3.5 Donoo’s British Launch From information on both how and why men purchase, it is evident that Donoo must focus on more than just their product offering in order to successfully sell to the male market. Euromonitor refer to this as ‘retailainment’, the practice of using ‘innovative store concepts’ to increase attraction to store based retailing and new, fresh customers (2015). As both primary and secondary research point out, ‘subtlety, accessibility and a sense of fun’ are the key aspects to satisfying male consumers (Lorenz, 2009). This said, the extensive research undertaken into the target consumer will aid in all aspects of the store, the product range and the marketing implementations for Donoo’s move to the UK. By collating all the information gathered regarding how males shop it has enabled us to create a thorough launch plan for Donoo, gratifying 16

the needs and psychological motivations of males within the retail environment.

6.0 Social Media Strategy (words by Megan Bradley) In this section we will be discussing the implementation of a social media strategy to support the launch of the Donoo-1 brand in the UK market and exploring the idea that the implementation of a strong and sustainable social media strategy is integral to the success of brands operating within any modern market, as it ‘is a key element in assisting consumers in their decision making process.’ (Alyward and HutchinsonBrown, 2014) By posting content relevant to their brand and customers, Donoo-1 can increase recognition and awareness online, and reach a wider demographic of consumers beyond their original target segment. (Alyward and Hutchinson, 2014) Brands focusing within the millennial 18-30 age demographic will see the most benefit of a social media strategy as this demographic continues to be the largest user of social. (Pew Research Centre, 2014) The function of social media is to target the unconscious needs and desires of consumers by providing a platform of interaction, that functions on a more personal level than existing marketing tools, capitalising on the genetic human need to ‘interact with other people’, which is why ‘so many of us find social media incredibly compelling’. (Ryan, 2014) Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (Figure 3) further explores what motivates consumers to invest, financially and emotionally, in brands. Using 5 stages, it segments the needs that successful brands will acknowledge and fulfil within their operations. Social Media provides visual, written, and interactive platforms, which brands can use to fulfil these needs by posting the correct and relevant content to their specific market. The frequency at which it allows brands to interact with their consumers, also means that they can seamlessly integrate themselves into their everyday lives, in a more effective way than traditional marketing tools. 1. Biological and Physiological needs – air, food, drink, shelter, warmth, sex, sleep. 2. Safety needs – protection from elements, security, order, law, stability, freedom from fear. 3. Social Needs – belongingness, affection and love, – from work group, family, friends, romantic relationships. 4. Esteem needs – achievement, mastery, independence, status, dominance, prestige, self-respect, respect from others. 5. Self-Actualisation needs – realizing personal potential, self-fulfillment, seeking personal growth and peak experiences. Figure 3. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (Mcleod, 2007)

For the male consumer, it is ‘Esteem needs’, that men most, unconsciously prioritise when interacting with a brand, as unlike women, who use social media to predominately ‘make connections’ and ‘share and express feelings’, men use social media within personal and professional settings to ‘gather information they need to build influence’ and make ‘relevant contacts and ultimately increase their status’. (Vermeren, 2015) 17

Quantitative research also evidences that the UK market is at its most susceptible state for social media marketing; As of January 2016, the number of active social media users in the UK stood at 38 Million, and the number of social mobile users at 33 Million, both numbers that are beyond half of the UK’s 64.1 Million population. (Kemp, 2016) The number of social media users has grown by 6% since January 2014 (Knight, 2016), all figures that further solidify the need for brands to implement effective social media strategies to launch more successfully in the UK market.

6.1 The Consumer: How They Use Social Media The Donoo-1 male is an 18-24 young professional, with a higher disposable income, who uses designer labels and quality garments as an indicator of his rising status. (See Figure 4, Acorn, 2016) “Young individuals that are starting out in their professional careers, have a disposable income but are not particularly affluent yet, and who recognise technology to be a key aspect in their lives.” Figure 4. Acorn Consumer Classification, Category 2E-20, Description (Acorn, 2016)

This demographic segment is often refereed to as the ‘Millennial’s’, young individuals who ‘are more willing to experiment with their personal style’ because of their frequent use of social media. (Euromonitor, 2015) The relationship that Millennial’s share with social media is so prevalent that they are pinned as ‘the internet generation’, spending over 3 hours a day on online, using social media the most actively than any other demographic. (Acorn, 2016) Over 89% of all active social media users fall within the Millennial demographic (Pew Research Centre, 2014), further establishing the need for Donoo-1 to implement a social media strategy to support their UK launch, making themselves available where their consumer is most present, as you would in offline marketing, implementing relevant marketing materials in locations frequented by the target consumer.

6.1.1 Instagram Instagram, as a visually based platform, see’s 90% of its active users fall under the age of 35, (Knight, 2016) evidencing its suitability for use by the Donoo-1 brand to target their millennial male market. Its overall ‘story-telling power’ as a visual platform, again fulfils psychological needs of the male consumer (Clasen, 2015), to associate themselves with a brand that has a clear moral heritage, in order to confer their aspiring status. (Tungate, 2008) Consumers no longer invest their time and money in a brand just for its products, but now, a brand can become just as popular for their Social Media content as they are for their products; 48% of Instagram users follow a a brand because ‘they find its content interesting or funny’, 62% follow a brand because ‘they love the brand’, and 54% follow a brand ‘to discover new things’. (Clasen, 2015)

6.1.2 Twitter Twitter is arguably the most interactive platform, allowing users to converse with each other freely across any subject matter, encouraging the use #hashtags to subjects trending. 65% of Twitter users, fall under the age of 35, evidencing its suitability for use by the Donoo-1 Brand to target their millennial male market. For Donoo-1, this offers an ideal opportunity to stimulate conversation around the brand and interacting 18

at large and in real-time with their target consumers, showing consideration of the fact that men prioritise functionality and interactivity when choosing to financially and emotionally invest in a brand (Tungate, 2008); Twitter is a platform on which they can directly interact with the brand instantly, fulfilling these needs.

6.1.3 Facebook Facebook, is still the most widely used social platform in the UK (Knight, 2016), but only see’s 26% of its 31 million users in the UK under 35 (Knight, 2016). While the declining user-ship among young people since 2012 (Kemp, 2016) could make brands like Donoo-1 forgo the creation of a page, it’s important to acknowledge that it is still the 3rd most used platform by their demographic at current, evidencing its suitability for use by Donoo-1 in their plan.

6.2 Donoo’s Strategy The aim of the social media strategy will be to support the overall launch of the Donoo-1 brand in the UK market, with a large focus on growing a strong following prior to its physical Selfridges store launch. Using the quantitative and qualitative evidence that has been discussed throughout this report, it has been established that using visual and interactive platforms, and the three most used platforms by Donoo-1’s customer, Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook (Kemp, 2016), all of which have a continually rising male user figure (Knight, 2016), is a calculated strategy that will fulfil the business objectives of Donoo-1’s UK launch; to grow and sustain their brand in the UK market.

Figure 5. Examples of Donoo’s Instagram.

Using these three platforms also diversifies the way in which content can be digested by the consumer, through imagery, written content, and more interactive functions, which adheres to the diverse and everchanging needs of the millennial male consumer market, who like to experiment with different forms of social media and internet technology. (Walgrove, 2015) 19

There are certain marketing activities that are more effective within the male market than the female one, and brands that recognise these differences, altering their strategies accordingly, will more likely see success in both short and long term. In Mark Turngate’s ‘Branded Male’, he suggest that there is are 9 key elements of a ‘branding toolkit’ (Figure 6) that, when marketing clothing to men, successful brands acknowledge. Within that, there are 4 key elements that are best fulfilled by the implementation of social media strategy (as shown in bold below):

Branding Tool Kit: Stress technical, performance, or quality elements. (relating to the unconscious desire for functionality that the male consumer seek) Heritage engenders trust. (to confer status and create loyalty) Confer status. Create Loyalty: Men are not promiscuous consumers. The retail environment: sober yet relaxed, with impeccable service. Detain the male consumer with additional services. Men appreciate guidelines for ‘correct’ dressing. Retail websites for men have yet to achieve their full potential. Celebrity endorsement and product placement are extremely powerful.

Figure 6. Mark Tungate’s Branding Tool Kit (Tungate, 2008)

The visual and interactive nature of social media, particularly Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook, of which the Donoo-1 customer spends most of their time, is the most appropriate environment in which to fulfil the timeless psychological needs of the millennial male, but still remains a versatile platform where content can be instantly developed to keep up with the ever-changing demands of the menswear market, particularly as it continues to grow. The presence of marketing content online via social media, as opposed to in print and street advertising, keeps the content in circulation for longer, with no real expiry date as consumers have access to features such as ‘retweeting’, ‘hash-tagging’, and ‘reposting’ content via their very own platforms, further making them feel personally involved with the brand. Social media also allows for reach of a wider audience because there is no restriction to who can access your content. Furthermore, publishing marketing content where the Donoo-1 male frequents most in the online environment, as you would with physical marketing materials in the physical environment, is wise but also makes marketing content, and the brand in general, extremely accessible, tapping into their unconscious need for functionality, which Turngate highlights as one the things men unconsciously prioritise. (Tungate, 2008)

6.3 The #WearItWednesday Campaign

Figure 7. Examples of Donoo’s Facebook.

While a presence on these three platforms may show initial success, Donoo-1 need to ensure they are able to maintain user engagement and continue to meet the conscious and unconscious needs of the male market in order to achieve their long term business objectives. The #WearItWednesday campaign will see Donoo-1 posting every Wednesday from Instagram, a series of images throughout the day that look like they’ve been shot in a street-style setting, that depict a male in the Donoo-1 products, showing customers how to style Donoo-1’s products. The campaign may often include celebrities, bloggers, or other high-profile personalities that the Donoo-1 customer recognise as aspiring, young, modern gentleman. The reasoning behind this idea again lies in the fulfilling of the unconscious and conscious needs of men within the retail environment, and what motivates them to invest personally and financially in a brand. It’s important that men feel like they can, find guidelines on ‘dressing correctly’, and can identify an icon of their interest that they feel accurately represents themselves or someone they 21

aspire to be like, that, though the development of a campaign, they associate with the brand, resulting in loyalty and conferring of status and quality, all of which men place great importance on when investing in a brand. (Tungate, 2008) While the campaign will run primarily from the Instagram account, because of it’s visual setting, it will span across all three social media accounts in order to fully capitalise on the use of social media to expose the brand in their market, and other potential markets. Facebook will share the images, and provide links back to the Instagram where customer can continue to interact with the brands account and be encouraged to share their own #WearItWednesday images by using the hashtag on their own Instagram posts. Twitter, again, will also sharing the images, but will stimulate written conversation by using the campaign hashtag, encouraging followers to ‘tell us who you want to see featured on #WearItWednesday’ and ‘Send us your own #WearItWednesday to be in with a chance of winning a VIP experience at our @Selfridges launch’.

Figure 8. Examples of Donoo’s Twitter.

The launch of a continuous social media campaign allows Donoo-1 to stimulate an on-going conversation that is specific to the brand but has the potential to become recognisable away from the brands own pages and in external settings. It will allow followers to become more familiar with the brand, whilst remaining exciting and engaging as the campaign continually develops over time and features different high-profile endorsers, showing different products, all of which will enhance encourage trust and loyalty whilst maintaining an interactive relationship with its followers. It’s weekly publishing format will also outline a dedicated area online, which over time becomes an archive, where men can click through and find guidelines, or similar, on how to wear the product, often be strengthened by the feature of high-profile endorsers whom the target male admire or respect, fulfilling the suggested elements of the male branding toolkit. (Tungate, 2008) The benefit of using social media platforms lies in the ability to post freely and at any point, seamlessly, if done correctly, weaving your brand in to consumer’s everyday lives until it becomes, rather effortlessly, a personified object in their lives. Consumers begin to blur the line between it just being a brand that sells a product, and a ‘someone’ that ‘understands’ who they are and why, and reflects who they want or aspire to be in a way that seems unique and authentic, like a really good friend or role model.

7.0 The UK Store Launch (words b Abbi Minchin) Global expansion is becoming increasingly common for the Chinese fashion market. However, Western consumer awareness remains relatively low, with only 23% of people studied being able to name a Chinese brand. Although China’s market has rapidly digitised its products and services – even more so than many Western countries – expansion success is not guaranteed. Brands must understand what makes them unique and “express that quality through everything they do” (Lin, 2014). Innovation and strong consumer understanding, combined with digital technology is key to UK market success. Without this, a brand is irrelevant. (Wang, 2015)

Figure 9. The male ‘millennial’ generation shopping habits, in comparison to that of the average male and women shoppers. (Shoppercentric cited in Hardie, 2012)

It is essential that Donoo emphasize their unique brand philosophy when entering the UK, as it will differentiate them from the highly saturated market. Over the past few years, brands have recorded a 40% increase in sales due to retail design accurately narrating their story and making items more desirable. This statistic proves that offering a richer experience to customers can give you an advantage in a society 23

where one can buy almost everything online (Editorial Assistant, 2014). 70% of men now say they enjoy the experience of shopping (Cohen, 2014), a contrast to popular thought 5 years ago. With younger male shoppers “less likely than ever to conform” to feminine shopping stereotypes (Pinnington cited in Hardie, 2012. See Figure 9), Donoo need to recognise a logical strategy to promote their brand in the UK.

7.1 The Concept Store E-commerce has grown substantially in the past three years and is set to take even larger leaps in the near future (Chaffey, 2015. See Figure 10). Although many traditional bricks-and mortar retailers are suffering from this, there is a minority that are using this to their advantage: reimagining their physical stores to keep up with the trends in technology and accessibility. At 88% in 2015, the majority ¬of retail sales are still generated in-store, so this development should not be overlooked by retailers (Jeffrey & Perkins, 2015:9).

Figure 10. A bar chart showcasing the growth of retail ecommerce sales in the UK from 2014-2019 (billions of £, % change and % of total retail sales). (eMarketer, 2015)

Concept stores are the result of retail experimentation, with brands looking for inspiration within museums and magazines to build innovative bricks-and-mortar spaces that appeal to their consumer. David Womak rationalizes: “the retail experience is an incredible part of the consideration process”, making it almost vital for brands to create spaces that influence the buying habits of the the modern consumer. A physical space where the virtual and physical worlds collide (Shearman, 2014) is fitting for Donoo – a modern brand that has a strong focus on agriculture.

Expansion introduces the pressure of entertaining the pampered consumer of today. For Donoo, this is the male consumer aged 18-24 – a difficult market that need innovative design and technology presented to them (Sender, 2014). As a retailer bringing their brand to a new market, Donoo will need to have a strong understanding of the “value of service, great product display, interactivity, digital technology” and an overall satisfying shopping experience (Davis, 2014). “The days have passed where a shop is just a shop” says Creative Director of Fitch London, so these elements are increasingly vital. UK department store Selfridges has, in the past, experimented with both concept and pop-up stores – reinforcing themselves as an innovative retailer who understands the importance of the customer experience (Loeb, 2013). A majority of their high-end brands are displayed as their own individual store within the store; granting them the opportunity to cross-market their products and reach a wider audience (Saluja, 2015). Donoo’s positioning in Beijing is within affluent shopping districts and department stores, therefore Selfridges fits the exclusivity that the brand already possesses (Beijing Group, 2016). With their positon in the market now balancing between high street and high end (Brooks, 2012), their 2015 annual report displaying a record 4.3% growth in gross sales and their digital outlook on retail ever-evolving (WGSN Insider, 2015), it is a location worth investing in for Donoo.

7.2 Donoo’s Pop-Up Store In October 2013, the brand collaborated with an architecture firm to create a pop-up store. The performance art illuminated the brand ethos and complimented their beliefs as a company in an architectural display. There was a focus on the juxtaposing phrases: “ordered vs. freedom […] cutting vs. growth […] a sense of enclosure vs. open” – which created an imaginative walk through a valley, with mountains of all sizes in the surrounding area (see Figure 11). In an interview, it was revealed that the intention behind the piece was to create a new retail format in the wake of online shopping dominance. It aims to be a space not limited to shopping, but allowing customers to participate in the brands culture – stimulating joy and creating an unforgettable experience. (Donoo, 2016)

Figure 11. Donoo’s 2013 pop-up store installation. (Donoo, 2016)

7.3 The Retail Environment According to Morgan (2008:132) “a concept store should be designed with the product in mind, with bespoke features, and strong branding” – to create a stimulating shopping experience for consumers. The Donoo website is effectively a museum – showcasing artists, designers and architectural design that identifies with the brands handwriting (Donoo, 2016). The concept store will be a museum of their product range, a space for customers to browse products easily and understand this emerging Chinese brand. Taking inspiration from primary visits to stores such as LN-CC, Dover Street Market, as well as Donoo’s pop up 25

store aforementioned, the exterior of the store will be formed with concrete, to make it stand out amongst the plethora of competition within Selfridges and imitate the modern, industrial branding that Donoo encompass. In juxtaposition, the interior will incorporate the brands focus on agriculture, by hanging Chinese evergreen leaves from the ceiling (see Figure 12). Not only will this be visually appealing, but it will also help the customer to identify with the brand and hopefully, encourage them to buy into it. The ambience and an inviting design are both key to promoting the product to its best advantage (Morgan, 2008:34), which is why Donooâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exterior and interior have been key focus points in the design process. These design characteristics will compliment the stores location is Selfridges as, since their Birmingham store launch in 2003, they have embraced a more contemporary outlook on retail design (Morgan, 2008:31).

Figure 12. A concept drawing of the store exterior and interior; including elements of retail design, visual merchandising and in-store technology.

7.3.1 Interactivity and Digital Technology The use of smartphones for additional information on products is most common in young men aged 1624, with many keen for retailer specific apps and innovative technology to aid their shopping experience (Mintel, 2015). iBeacon technology has been introduced as a smart phone software extension, and uses transmitters to detect the location of consumers. The beacons activate when customers are within a certain radius of the tracker – releasing content that travels directly to an app (Sender, 2015). Donoo’s app will not only be advertised on social media, but also within the store, through sales assistants and signage. The app will open to an area that can only be accessed in-store, showcasing look books and styling ideas, as well as discount offers for first time buyers. This technology is an innovative way for the brand to market themselves in the UK, both increasing exposure and encouraging customer return (Lea, 2013).

7.3.1.1 The Changing Room Initiative A recent Mintel (2015) report, found that a quarter of under-35 male clothes shoppers would be interested in tablet equipped fitting rooms, supporting results from a focus group of 18-24-year-olds, where 67.14% showed interest in the concept (see Appendix 9.6). These interactive information terminals act as personal sales assistants – driving efficiency and customer satisfaction (Renko & Druzijanic, 2014:839). The iPad technology will hold information such as stock availability, product description, and examples of garment fit, to encourage understanding of the product before purchasing – and in turn, avoid costly returns (Mintel, 2015). It will allow customers to request substitute sizes, colours and styles of a product, which will be delivered direct to the fitting room. This technology will also be available on the shop floor, helping to guide the customer to a specified product. Introducing characteristics of online shopping, such as product information and stock availability, to the in-store environment will stimulate the control that male shoppers require (Faktor, 2012).

7.3.2 Product Display

Figure 13. Donoo Autumn Winter 2014 ‘Still Life’ look book. (Donoo, 2016)

Bakewell & Mitchell (2004) believe that an “important consideration for the typically time-restricted male shopper” is the organisation of products. By adopting categories by aesthetic, rather than grouping them according to product, they believe that total concept selling can be introduced, reducing men’s “decisionmaking time and need for imagination”. However, when exploring primary research from seventy males aged 18-24, there was a very clear division in opinion. While many said that they enjoy item blocking – as it allows the customer to find a specific product when rushed for time – others prefer products to be intentionally placed together to mimic a trend and assist with styling ideas. A majority of the respondents (see Appendix 9.5), however, did agree that clothing looks more presentable hung up or styled on mannequins, rather than folded – as it can be difficult to see all the features of an item and when busy, become disorganised. Donoo will take inspiration from their 2014 look book (see Figure 13), which uses a combination of angled surfaces to present their product. Items will be laid out – not folded – across these surfaces, showcasing the components of the product and allowing the customer ample viewing. Alongside the raised surfaces, there will be single rails that will hang items, giving the customer the opportunity to view and handle the collection effortlessly.

Figure 14. The interior design for the concept store: hanging Chinese evergreens, iPad technology, raised platforms and rails for product display, and lighting.

7.3.3 The Value of Service Despite applying modern technology in the retail environment, Donoo will still house sales assistants in its 28

four concept stores across Selfridges. According to Mintel, half of male consumers say that good customer service encourages them to shop at a store, with the attitude peaking among better-off consumers (Sender, 2014). Although Donoo’s price is situated between high end and high street (Beijing Group, 2016), it is important that they understand the importance of customer service, as part of the Selfridge’s group. With developments in technology, service encounters have now expanded to embrace virtual contact (Lee, 205:678), such as self-service. Although the implementation of this machinery is often utilised to turn customers into co-producers of a service, reduce costs and raise productivity; it is less apparent in fashion retail. For the customer, the sales assistants are the brand, and therefore it is essential that they emulate the brand and create “an experience that the customer will always remember” (Lent and Tour, 2009:15). The concept store will have a limited space within Selfridges, and therefore all areas of the store will need to be utilised to promote both the brand and product. To allow for optimum product display, Donoo will not occupy stand-alone tills – instead, staff will operate portable electronic point of sale systems. These EPOS systems will be equipped with stock management, search options, and integrated chip and pin for efficient interaction between employee and customer (IntelligentPOS, 2016). These technological advances are expected to improve the shopping experience for the male consumer; limiting overcrowding and extensive queues (Mintel, 2015).

7.4 The Strategy Adopting a holistic view towards retail design is key for brands, as consumers view the environment as a whole, rather than individual elements (Christiaans & Almendra, 2012:1894). There has been a shift in customer dynamic in recent years – they are “no longer seen as only a buyer of products”, they are a consumer – with a personality, feelings and preferences. This perspective requires a different approach to the retail environment, and in particular design (Quartier, 2008:2). By adapting and combining a bottom-up and top-down strategy when launching their Selfridges concept store (Christiaans & Almendra, 2012:1897. See Appendix 9.7), Donoo will produce an environment appropriate for both their consumer and their brand.

8.0 Conclusion (words by all) Conclusively, it can be agreed that the UK market is an appropriate environment for the Donoo-1 brand to launch. This is supported by conclusive quantitative and qualitative data, of which we have gathered from both primary and secondary resources, and all of which evidence a growing demand within the millennial male market for quality conscious and status conferring garments. It is further concluded that, due to the nature of ‘marketing-to- men’, a theme which has been heavily analysed throughout this report, Donoo-1 can fulfil the specific unconscious and conscious needs of the male consumer through the implementation of additional features, such as a supporting social media strategy and exciting concept store design. By acknowledging the idea that men prioritise themes of functionality and interactivity, these additional features have been proposed with concepts that fulfil these needs and will allow Donoo-1 to capitalise on the growing menswear market, and its increasingly online-orientated consumer. Furthermore, by remaining true to their contemporary brand philosophy, Donoo-1 can differentiate themselves from their competitors, in what is an increasingly saturated market. Using social media, across the three platforms on which their millennial male consumer most actively use, Donoo-1 can begin to engage with the UK male millennial prior to their physical launch in Selfridges, establishing their niche contemporary brand and making UK consumers aware of their strong culture, arts, and media heritage, fulfilling the need for a brand ‘heritage/backstory’ that often engenders the trust of the male consumer. With careful examination of the Donoo-1 consumer, their changing demands, increasing online activity, and psychological motivations within the retail environment, both online and off, we have proposed a strong launch plan, supported by an underlying social media strategy, an integral feature to any brand launch within the modern consumer market, and specifically for those targeting the millennial demographic. With acknowledgement of this, and the unique requirements that are necessary when operating within the male market, the launch plan we have suggested will allow Donoo-1 to successfully launch with the UK market, and sustain their success over the long-term.

9.0 Appendices (by Francesca Stevenson) 9.1. “Goldman Sachs - Millennials Who are they? - A different world, a different worldview. Millennials have grown up in a time of rapid change, giving them a set of priorities and expectations sharply different from previous generations. There were 92million people born between 1980- 2000, compared to 77million during the ‘Baby Boom’ era. Brands and Retail - Millennials’ affinity for technology is reshaping the retail space. With product information, reviews and price comparisons at their fingertips, Millennials are turning to brands that can offer maximum convenience at the lowest cost. The Power of Social - If brands are shrinking in importance, social media is growing. Millennials are turning to their online networks when making purchasing decisions. “When a brand uses social media, I like that brand more.” – 34% of 18- 35 year olds.” Goldman Sachs (2015) Millennials Infographic [online] [Accessed: 18th February 2016] Available at: http://www.goldmansachs.com/our-thinking/pages/millennials/

9.2. “A generational shift in attitudes? In order to reflect on whether we are likely to see a further erosion of traditional values, and further progression of the ‘gender role revolution’, it is helpful to understand whether the trends in societal attitudes we report above are the result of generational change – with more ‘traditional’ generations being replaced by less ‘traditional’ ones as time goes on. If that is the case, we might expect to see a continued decline in support for traditional gender divides into the future. To look at this, we focus on the proportion of the public who agree with the statement that “A man’s job is to earn money; a woman’s job is to look after the home and family” – a view which most clearly encapsulates a traditional division of gender roles. We first look at variations in the responses of people in different age groups. Because there is very little difference in the views of men and women on this issue, either in 1984 (when 45 per cent of men and 41 per cent of women agreed with the statement) or in 2012 (when levels of agreement were 13 per cent and 12 per cent respectively), we do not separate our analysis by sex.”

Park, A., Bryson, C., Clery, E., Curtice, J. and Phillips, M. (eds.) (2013), British Social Attitudes: the 30th Report [online] London: NatCen Social Research [Accessed: 14th February 2016] Available at: www.bsa-30.natcen.ac.uk

9.3. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Underhill (1999) argues that one solution is to provide stores designed completely for male shoppers rather than trying to sell genderless products, e.g. vitamins, in a standardized way. Giving males their own stores can help retailers to provide store layouts and atmospherics that fit with a male style of shopping. For example, retailers could employ fewer product lines, but with larger and more prominent signs so that goods are easier to find. Books/magazines and hobbies specifically of interest to men could feature in the store layout to encourage them to feel comfortable in the retail setting and spend time browsing. Indeed, everything from the packaging to the colour schemes could be differentiated to reinforce the feeling that this form of shopping is different from that experienced by women. It may be that to achieve this aim, retail locations away from traditional shopping districts will be necessary (e.g. next to athletic clubs and gymnasiums). Furthermore, given that almost one in five male shoppers appear to be actively uninterested in fashion, perhaps because they associate it as being a female concern, retailers who merchandise clothing, shoes and other personal effects to men, should probably avoid communication appeals that use or emphasize these terms. Instead, our research would suggest that most male shoppers are associated with decision traits that emphasize quality and/or brand consciousness and therefore communication strategies should emphasize these points.â&#x20AC;? Cathy Bakewell & Vincent-Wayne Mitchell (2004) Male Consumer Decision-Making Styles, The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, 14:2,223-240.

9.4. A map displaying the route taken by thirteen males when shopping in the Zara Manchester store.

9.5. Transcript of the interviews conducted with the male shoppers following their experience in the Zara store (the colours reflect the footprints of the above floor plan). “1. Before entering the store, did you have a rough idea of what the layout of the store was? 1. Yes. 2. Yes mostly. 3. It changes quite regularly so only a vague idea. 4. Not particularly. 5. Didn’t know what to expect in terms of the layout but on entering the store, the window displays gave an insight to what to expect on the shop floor. 6. Yes I’m familar with the layout. 7. Yes. 8. Sort of. 9. Roughly based on other menswear store layouts. 10. Yes, the majority of clothing retailers have a similar store layout. 11. Yes, Zara rarely change the layout of their shops. 12. Yes. It’s pretty similar to a lot of other multi story stores in Manchester with a set of escalators in the centre, menswear on top, kids bottom & ladies ground & first. Sometimes hard to get past things as walk ways are narrow & space between rails is very small in some parts. 13. No as they often change it. 2. Upon first entering the store, did you notice anything about the atmosphere/ ambience? e.g. the smell, lighting, busyness, tidiness/mess. 1. It was tidy and I noticed the perfumed smell. 2. As I walked in the atmosphere was really relaxed and friendly, all seemed well organised and the lighting was fairly neutral. 3. Ladieswear always seems very hectic, the lighting is good but it always seems like a bit of an organised chaos but it is a very relaxed environment. 4. Quite busy, fairly messy in places. 5. The store has somewhat of a formal atmosphere as the staff wear black Blazers and the interior design of the shop is extremely modern with basic colours. Some table displays were untidy but there were employees tidying them as I walked past. 6. Very busy, well lit, wide variety of clothes to choose from. 7. The lights were very bright and it seemed quite tidy. 8. A very minimalist shop, with bright lighting and plenty of space. 9. The lighting was very bright and highlighted the clothes and made it feel rather clean. 10. The store was well lit and easy to navigate around, the store was also moderately busy with nice music making a good first impression. 11. Generally very tidy, no distinct smell. Men’s department never as busy as women’s. Never notice anything odd about lighting. 12. Lighting is good although they put a dark tint on most of the mirrors for some reason. & on a busy day it does get messy but most of the time I’ve been in its kept quite tidy. 13. Plain, the menswear section is small but mostly tidy. 3. Were the garments item blocked (all trousers together, all tops together)? 1. No. 2. No. 36

3. Were the garments item blocked (all trousers together, all tops together)? 1. No. 2. No. 3. They awere mixed together. 4. I think they were mixed. 5. No, all the clothes were grouped in styles, such as basic clothes, more formal clothes and then more casual. A lot of the clothes are presented as an outfit. 6. Not blocked, all mixed. 7. Yes they were. all item types together. 8. I have no idea, sorry! 9. No they were catergorised by style I think. 10. Yes all the items seemed to be blocked together, however in some cases that displayed trousers with tops that would go together in an outfit. 11. Yes I think they were all in garment blocks. 12. No, they merchandise by style I think (suits/smart clothing, urban style street ware, summer clothes) all in separate sections. Or they just go by colour. Merchandising is good either way. Although they do have one table full of jeans. 13. I think they’re mixed but they tried to keep garment types together mostly. 4. Do you prefer item blocking or garments mixed on rails? 1. Mixed, as when all garment types are together it looks like sale rails to me. 2. Prefer them all together so when you’re after a particular item you can narrow your search time down. 3. Item blocking, definitely, it makes iteasier to shop. 4. I prefer item blocking,all things in one place. 5. I prefer items on mixed rails as it gives you an example of what you could wear with the product, if I don’t like the full outfit then I can just find something else to go with it. 6. Mixed rails look nicer I think. 7. Item blocking probably. 8. Probaby mixed. 9. When they’re mixed on rails it’s easier to see everything they have. 10. I do prefer item blocking as it allows me to choose one garment at a time. 11. I prefer blocking as when I know I’m looking for a certain type of clothing I don’t need to walk all around the store. 12. I prefer garments mixed, helps you pick an outfit & match colours. Blocking has its perks though like if you’re in a rush, it’s good to know where all the things of that type are. 13. Put all together by garment type. 5. If items were mixed, do you find yourself picking up items that are displayed together on rails? 1. Yes. 2. Yeah generally if it looks good. 3. I think I sometimes unknowingly do pick up garments that are displayed together. 4. Occasionally. 5. All depends on whether I like the full outfit, I always look round the whole store and just pick up what I like. 6. Yes sometimes, if I like all the pieces. 7. No, I don’t think so. 8. Yes I do. 37

9. Yes I pick up things I might not of usually picked up. 10. Mixed items does allow the customer to see what might match, personally I would not generally select items that are together unless I liked the way they looked together. 11. Yes I do most of the time- if I like it! 12. Yes, if items displayed together work well as an outfit. 13. No I don’t think I tend to like the outfits put together in shops. 6. Did you notice where the accessories (bags, shoes, etc) were displayed? If so, did you look at them? 1. Yes, mainly at the front near the till and yes I tried on a scarf. 2. Yeah I noticed and I often look at them if I’m not rushed for time. 3. Yes, they’re at the bottom of the rails but I don’t tend to look as it ‘s often hard to find your size. 4. Yes. on the shelves and yes I often look at them. 5. Most non-clothing is displayed underneath the clothes, there wasn’t a specific area for non clothing which is quite annoying. I’d prefer to have one area for say shoes as it makes it easier to find what you’re looking for. 6. Yes I notice where they were but I didn’t look at then. 7. No, I don’t think I can even think where the section is. 8. I think they were near the front check out but I only looked briefly. 9. Yes, I looked at the shoes. 10. The shoes tend to be in one section with some displayed underneath other garments and yes I do look at them. 11. Normally near the tills, but only I briefly look at them whilst I’m in the queue. 12. They are displayed close to the till point or in clear view of the staff, and yes I look at them, they do nice scarves & ties. 13. They’re mostly on the top and bottom shelves on the clothing rails but I don’t really look, I wouldn’t think to go to Zara for accessories. 7. Was there anything that you struggled to find in the store? 1. Not really. 2. No, it’s all fairly basically laid out. 3. If I was looking for shoes I probably wouldn’t go to Zara, I’d struggle to find them. 4. Not particularly. 5. As something things are layed out in outfits, it can sometimes be difficult to spot a specific pair of jeans as they could be displayed behind a t-shirt. 6. No I can’t think of anything. 7. No I didn’t think so. 8. A good pair of shoes! 9. Things that I’ve seen online weren’t in the store which is annoying. 10. No not at all, all items were easily accessible. 11. There wasn’t anything I struggled to find, however I’m not a fan of how the shoes are laid out as it can be hard to find a pair. 12. No really, from time I time I find something on the website that I want to try in store first but they have so many products sometimes it’s hard to locate a specific item. 13. It can be hard to find the simple items like plain t-shirts. 8. Did the display of garments look aesthetically appealing to you? 1. Yeah, I think the layout is quite nice. 38

2. To an extent but I prefer when the clothes are displayed on mannequins so I can see what it looks like on and there weren’t that many. 3. Yes, on menswear they normally keep it looking quite sleek. 4. Yes, I think it looks nice and professional. 5. The displays are very aesthetically pleasing, there have been times where I’ve went to try on an outfit just because it looked really good on the display. 6. Yes, all sections are nicely self contained and neat. 7. Yes mostly. 8. Yes I thought it was all very well presented. 9. Yes I thought so. 10. Yes, all the displays were extremely pleasing on the eye and contributed to the shopping experience. 11. Yes, simple but nice. 12. In most cases yes. Some things I wouldn’t put together but that’s personal taste. Over all it all looks good to me. 13. Yeah, the simple layout is ok but not always easy to navigate as some stands are very close together. 9. Was there anything in particular about the display of garments or the store layout that you didn’t like or found inconvenient when trying to browse? 1. Not at all, it was easy browsing. 2. No it was all fine. 3. Again the shelves at the top and bottom of the clothing rails aren’t ideal. 4. Some of the displays were too low down, had to bend down, uncomfortable for a tall person. 5. Only issue is there are too many table displays which makes it difficult to find your size and they are often messy as customers can’t be bothered to fold all the clothes they look through, which is understandable. 6. Shoes sometimes are located underneath the clothes or on the bottom shelves, a bit awkward to get to. 7. No nothing bothered me. 8. The shoes are in an inconvenient location at the bottom of clothing rails. 9. Related items wouldn’t be near each other such as casual jackets which is annoying when you’re shopping for a specific item. 10. In the men’s section no, as there tend to be less displays. The layout however seemed to be a bit jumbled, (for the men’s section anyway) this was a little off putting but did not affect the shopping experience. 11. I don’t like in general how they display an outfit on a mannequin and I can’t find it in the store. 12. The till placement is a bit awkward on the men’s floor, especially when it’s busy. If there is a big queue it’s pretty hard to get through to the other side, sometimes you have to go back on yourself. 13. Not really, I like that everything is mostly on hangers. 10. If you could make one suggestion, as a male shopper, for the improvement of your shopping experience in the store, what would it be? 1. Possibly more collections out on the shop floor as a lot was dedicated to sale. 2. More mannequins. 3. More staff available to help if you needed it. 4. Possibly turn the temperature down. 5. I would suggest to make an area just for shoes so that people can easily find what they’re looking for, and maybe shorten the amount of table displays, even though they look nice when folded, they spend more time looking messy and it’s harder to find your size. 6. Maybe block all the shoes together to make them more visible and easier to get at. 39

7. Wider variety of clothes. 8. Probably supply a little more stock of better quality shoes and not place them on the bottom rail. 9. Have some linked items grouped together to make it easier to find what you’re looking for. 10. I would say to have more of a flowing layout for the male section that guides you first through the casual, more commonly brought items and then to the more formal and more expensive items! Also potentially more seating for male customers. 11. More seats as when I shop with a female I can sit down and not follow her around the store. 12. Sometimes it’s hard to find staff or even tell who is staff, maybe some way of identifying them easier as its a big store, without having a ‘uniform’. 13. More interesting products and accessories like in Urban Outfitters. 11. What elements of store layouts do you find the best (e.g. having products folded or hung)? Can you think of an example store that you find particularly pleasing? 1. I prefer having the clothes hung on display, I like the display of Slefridges menswear. 2. I like All Saints, the chilled atmosphere and the friendly staff, the clothes are always displayed nicely too. 3. The menswear section in Manchester House of Fraser is good because it’s all separate from the womenswear. 4. I prefer products to be hung up on display and spacious store layouts are better. I like the Size? stores. 5. I like products being hung just because it’s easier to pick your size, when a table display is tidy I think it looks better, I like urban outfitters as I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of their table displays looking as messy as they do in some stores and they seem to have a good balance between hanging clothes and folded. 6. When clothes are hung, Hull St Stephens Zara store is always tidy and set out nicely. 7. I like Ted Baker, their stores are a bit quirky and different to the normal boring menswear shops. 8. Clothes that are hung up and easy to access are the best, I like the menswear floor in Selfridge’s as you can see loads of brands in one go. 9. The less items that are folded the better as I don’t like messing up the piles, I prefer going into department store as it’s only one shop but you can do loads of brands at once. 10. I think Topman’s layout is best as everything is hung up on display, even the plain t-shirts, which makes it easy to navigate. There are also plenty of staff around if you need any assistance. 11. Topman and Topshop have a good balance I think, equal areas for males and females and the Topman section is nicely laid out. 12. All Saints. I like the distinct, inimitable almost unfinished qualities the shop has- the wood, the dark walls and the barely-lit lighting. The distressed layout and the clothing choices of the courteous staff add to the brands unique affinity for plainness. 13. Reiss, it’s classy and sleek, the staff are always dressed smart and chilled atmosphere.

9.6 Results from a survey of seventy 18-24-year-old males, on the retail environment and the implementation of technology in-store.

9.7 Retail design strategy â&#x20AC;&#x153;In retail design branding and consumer behaviour play a key role. Designers can adopt a top-down strategy - from brand/firm to consumer - taking the perspective of the brand and translate it into a retail environment; or a bottom-up strateg in which consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; behaviour including their goals and desires are leading. [...] should be able to match both strategies, meaning that in the design task they should combine both top-down and bottom-up approaches in order to hold a holistic view.â&#x20AC;? Christiaans, H.H.C.M. and Almendra, R.A (2012) Retail design: a new discipline. The Design Society.

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