Off Tap.: October/November 2016

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016

W HAT’S BREWIN G P.2

Beer Speaks, Peop le M umb le

P.4

Octoberfestbier

P.5

Talk to the L ef t Ha nd

P.6

Crooked Can Bre w ing Co.

P.8

Big Storm Oktoberfest

Off Tap. is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits.

Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

Meghan Guarino Editor Allie Smallwood Contributing Editor

Follow us on Twitter @abcbeercountry Email us at offtap@abcfws.com Our certified beer experts on Twitter: We have approximately 30 beer consultants on Twitter. To find the one nearest you, tweet us @abcbeercountry or email us at offtap@abcfws.com to be pointed in the right direction.

abcfws.com

BEER SPEAKS, PEOPLE MUMBLE M E GH A N G U A R IN O

Lagunitas Brewing Company is arguably

would not only remove “craft” from their dis-

On The Heineken Factor

one of the most famous, most original, most

tinction for good, it would also give Lagunitas

“They’ve been really graciously hands-free,”

fill-in-the-blank “craft” breweries in the coun-

the help they needed to take their beer across

Jeremy Marshall, master brewer at Lagunitas,

try. Craft in quotes to appease the fanatics

the pond, across continents, across whatever

said of Heineken’s influence. Aside from the

and technicality critics of the industry.* Be-

other landmass you can think of, with the

heightened wealth of resources and informa-

cause about a year ago, this California-based

promise that the brewery would maintain their

tion available to the crew at Lagunitas, daily

brewery announced its partnership with big

punk rock image and the quality of their beer.

operations haven’t been noticeably affected.

However, Lagunitas is enjoying a broadening

beer Heineken “to take craft beer global,” according to the joint press release you can still find on their website. The 50 percent stake

Thus far, the brewery has lived up to its word.

footprint, seducing hop heads and American craft drinkers in countries near and far.

Lagunitas Brewering Company, Petaluma, California

across the US, in the Caribbean, Japan, Sweden, Ireland, the UK and so many more countries globally—many of which Lagunitas infiltrated before Heineken was ever in the picture. Even still, “Heineken opened a lot of doors internationally,” Jeremy said. The brewery has many more countries left on

On Quality Beer Boasting a slew of core beers, a handful of limited brews and countless one-offs made and featured at the numerous breweries and brewpubs Lagunitas operates, this brewery knows how to make beer. And with that knowledge comes a crucial decision all breweries, distilleries and winemakers

the map to explore.

must make: to innovate or not?

The number of breweries and brewpubs is

“The thing about being craft is it comes

growing as well. Upcoming are the anticipated new brewery in Asuza, California (the third brewery for Lagunitas is expected to open in 2017), a brewpub in Charleston, South Carolina, and a rumored brewery in the UK as well as at least two brewpubs in London, according to a quote attributed to Lagunitas founder Tony Magee printed in an August 22, 2016, article on the Sonoma Index-Tribune website.

Heineken has catapulted a steadily growing

synonymous with innovation, right?” Jeremy said. But the larger the brewery, the harder it gets to innovate—too many cooks in the kitchen, as they say. It is possible, though.

This year, Lagunitas launched their first ever can, The 12th of Never, a concept the brewery swore they’d never take on. But times change, markets change, and The 12th of Never has arrived. Stoopid Wit is their latest

brewery into a realm of rapid expansion.

innovation—it seems straightforward enough,

On The Brewery’s Punk Rock Image

traditional Belgian wit yeast with an unmalted

“This was the most punk rock brewery I had ever encountered when I first started working here,” Jeremy said—he joined Lagunitas in 2002, nearly a decade after its doors first opened. “I was surrounded by misfits and pierced everything and blue mohawks and brewers that looked like the Fraggles and Muppets.”

Muppets may not be the sexiest descriptor of a brewery, but the imagery is good. Salty,

but for a brewery that has never combined a white malt, Stoopid Wit was an experiment in beer. It’s brews like these that keep the crew at Lagunitas pumped about what’s next.

“There is a nice intersection of art and science and it continues to kick our ass every day,” Jeremy said.

For a taste of Lagunitas new and old, visit your local ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. And if you’re not sure where to start, start with their IPA. It’s the crowd favorite.

grumpy, iconoclastic, weathered, battletested, all words Jeremy used when talking about Lagunitas.

With frequent parties, weekly concerts and smart-ass beer labels, Lagunitas is a beenthere-done-that brewery with a history—and nearly perfected beer—to back up their

*To be fair, a “craft” brewery is defined by their production size and/or ownership of the brewery—

birds-in-the-air attitude. “We had to make

I know this and I know that under those definitions, Lagunitas does not qualify as a “craft” brewery.

a lot of mistakes to get things right,” Jeremy

However, they did start out as a craft brewery in 1993, and they do still think, act, make beer and

said. “We did a lot of things wrong and paid

defend the industry like a quintessential craft brewery, and that’s more than some technically craft

for it and learned the hard way.”

craft breweries can say.

October/November 2016 | Page 3

Currently, Lagunitas beer can be found

OKTOBERFESTBIER M A R K C R OU C H , C R A F T A ND IM PORT TRADE BREW ER C E R T I FIE D C IC E R O N E , T ENTH AND BLAKE BEER COM PANY

As summer turns to autumn, pref-

and so avoided summer brewing. In

conditions for new strains of yeast

was transformed into an annual

erences turn from lighter, refreshing

fact, in 1553 the Bavarian ruler Duke

to thrive, which produced crisper

folk festival known as Oktoberfest,

beer styles – pilsner, helles, weissbier

Albrecht V issued a decree forbid-

beers that had fewer fermentation

which is still celebrated to this day.

– to something a bit bolder. Beer that

ding brewing between April 23 and

flavor and aroma by-products. Lager

The beer served at the early festivals

warms us up, just as the temperature

September 29.

brewing therefore spread throughout

was still a relatively dark lager, but

Bavaria and the region was renowned

became lighter in appearance as the

for their innovative and refined

years went by. These amber Märzen

new beers.

lagers eventually came to be called

begins to fall, and resonates with the colors of the changing leaves – those classic fall amber lagers collectively known as Oktoberfestbier.

During the month of March, as the brewing season was winding down, brewers would gather up their remaining stores of malt and hops

Once summer gave way to fall, bar-

Brewing in Germany was once largely

to brew the final batches of the year.

rels of Märzen would be procured

performed during the colder months.

These beers would eventually come

from the caves and tapped in cel-

Farmers, busy in the fields during

to be known as Märzenbier, German

ebration of harvest and the conclu-

the heat of the summer, would brew

for “March beer.”

sion of the growing season. One such

during their down time. And it didn’t escape their attention that beer brewed in the summer was more prone to spoilage. They couldn’t have known that strains of wild yeast and bacteria were more active in warm temperatures, but they could taste the evidence for themselves without ever looking under a microscope,

The invention of refrigeration was still a few hundred years in the future, so Bavarian brewers began storing, or lagering, their beer during the summer in caves dug into hillsides and packed with ice. With cooler fermentation and cold conditioning, they were unwittingly creating the ideal

SENSORY EVALUATION Appearance: Clear as crystal, deep amber of late autumn leaves, accentuated by a creamy white foam cap Aroma: Distinctive toasty aromatics from Munich malt and a spicy noble hop character Taste: Caramel malt flavors balanced with the spicy hop undertones, balance slightly skewed to the malty sweet side which is characteristic of the style Mouthfeel: Medium bodied yet thirst-quenchingly crisp with refreshing, effervescent carbonation Finish: Lingering malty finish that interplays deliciously with a spicy hop bit; crisp, clean and refreshing ABV: 5.1% IBUs: 20 Malts: Pale 2- and 6-row blend, Caramel, Munich Hops: Cluster, Tettnang, Hallertau, Perle Food pairings: Bratwurst, späetzle, pork chops, soft pretzels and spiced apple cake

Oktoberfestbier in the late 19th century, and an even paler version, known simply as Festbier, became the dominant style of the festival beginning in the 1970s.

celebration was particularly extrava-

The Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing

gant: the wedding of Prince Ludwig

Company has been brewing since

and Princess Therese. In Munich on

1867 in Chippewa Falls, WI, and

October 12, 1810, it encompassed

their proud German heritage shines

a 5-day celebration that included

through in their homage to the

parades, horse racing, feasting and

world’s greatest festival.

of course, lots of Märzen beer. This

Talk to the [Left] Hand M EG H A N GU A R IN O

For a brewery that’s been around for over 20

But before we get our hands on Left Hand’s

years, Longmont, Colorado-based Left Hand

cans, the brewery is ending 2016 with a salute

Brewing Co. is certainly no old dog. During the

to stouts. Known for introducing bottled nitro

brewery’s installation of their brand spankin’

beer, Left Hand is gearing up to celebrate

new canning line and in the midst of creating

November with the best of their portfolio: nitro

new recipes for the 2017 year, fairly-new-to-

stouts. Welcome to Nitrovember.

a few minutes to tell us a little about what his team has been up to lately.

Featured all month long are Milk Stout Nitro, Wake Up Dead Nitro and new-to-market Bittersweet Nitro. The one we’re sure you’re

“I think it’s really cool to see a brewery that’s

interested in—and the one we’re most excited

been around for 23 years accept change so

to try—is Bittersweet, an imperial coffee milk

well and realize the world of beer isn’t just one

stout that was one of Truck’s first projects at

or two flagship styles. It’s having a portfolio with

Left Hand (and one that is already tapped out in

offerings for every palate out there,” Truck said.

their taproom). “The base beer was awesome

“Left Hand was always known for traditional

and the coffee that we went with from Allegro

styles, and next year’s portfolio is anything

is incredible too,” he said. “We went there for

but traditional.”

several cuppings (coffee tastings) and ended up

Coming soon to the distinct pleasure of those always ready to try something new are a slew of saisons (“It just so happens to be my favorite style, and next year we’re releasing four,” Truck said), the introduction of Belgian yeast strains, a revamped barrel program and the anticipated arrival of Left Hand cans. It is worth noting that at the time of our conversation, the canning line had yet to arrive at the brewery. “I’ve done this

combining a couple of the coffees they had with their roasting practices and made a proprietary and started going for it!”

on a mellowed, creamy mouthfeel. Boosted coffee milk stout is reminiscent of a chocolatecovered espresso bean. Bitter and sweet, it’s

Start your celebrations with a toast to Interna-

from the brewery.

3. Grab a 16-ounce glass

by exotic mocha and java flavors, this imperial

Included in their initial canning release (ex-

three well-balanced, highly drinkable staples

2. Open the bottle

Bittersweet shows dark cherry and spice flavors

the perfect nitrogenated brew.

American IPA, Milk Stout and Fade to Black,

1. Chill the bottle to 40-45°

blend out of it. We brought the coffee in house

before,” Truck said, laughing at my exasperation.

pected at the end of this year) are Extrovert

How to Pour a Left Hand Nitro Beer

tional Stout Day on November 3, and remember, pour hard.

4. Pour at a 180-degree angle into the glass (turn the bottle upside down)

5. Watch those teeny-tiny bubbles bounce around in your glass

October/November 2016 | Page 5

Left-Hand director of brewing Truck Thrall took

A N N I V E R S A R Y

B E E R

CROOKED CAN STEAM JACK A L L IE S MA L LWO O D

ABC has been helping Florida families, friends

bitterness. “We made it a Florida Common. We

the craft industry and the mainstream, lighter

and companies celebrate for 80 years now.

invented Florida Common with this beer. It’s kind

beer drinker.”

During our 80th lap around the sun, we’ve been

of tongue in cheek at the end of the day. We

gearing up for our anniversary celebration with

wanted to have fun with it, we’re from Florida,

events, promotions, a new Block wine and now a

not California,” Chad explained.

craft beer. Brewed by a fellow Central Florida-

Because this beer isn’t seasonally based, it’s drinkable when it’s hot, when it’s cold, when you don’t know what you want, or when you need to please a crowd. Jared said the goal for this beer

based company, Crooked Can’s Steam Jack

was for it to be “approachable by people who

pays homage to the man who started our busi-

don’t normally drink craft beer but still enjoyable

ness both in name and in the team that brewed

for all the beer geeks out there as well.”

the beer.

With a bright, light amber color Steam Jack’s

“I always had a knack for anything in the

intricate lacing and solid head retention rein-

industry, so I follow in his footsteps and try to

force the attention to detail put into this brew.

make him happy at the end of the day and do

“We made sure to treat the mash very delicately

his legacy some justice,” said Chad Holloway of

throughout the entire process so that the proteins

his grandpa Jack Holloway, founder of ABC Fine

wouldn’t be destroyed,” explained Chad. It shows

Wine & Spirits and the Jack in Steam Jack. Chad

a moderate malt body with an ale mouthfeel that

makes up half of the original brewing duo at

immediately finishes and cleans up like a lager.

Crooked Can; Kent Waugh is the other half.

Slight earthy woodiness and bitter Northern Brew

“Chad and I started these recipes in Jared

hops are rounded out by the addition of southern

Czachorowski’s (a founding member of Crooked

cane syrup.

Can) garage in the beginning of this, so Steam

This beer will keep you busy until it runs out,

Jack isn’t the first recipe we’ve worked on,” Kent

but the rest of Crooked Can’s offerings will have

said. He and Chad tweaked every recipe for the

you enthralled until our 100 year anniversary

past year to create a lineup with glaringly evident

rolls around. (Chad and Kent have some ideas

quality. “We’re pretty proud of every single one

for that collaboration too: “Big barrel aged beer,”

we have up there,” he said, nodding to the chalk-

Chad said. “We’d probably do a barrel aged beer

board menu above the brewery’s taproom bar.

and finish it with some Belgian yeast, but that will be a surprise.”)

The synergy of the two brewers together is perhaps one of the more interesting dynamics

The release of Steam Jack also marks Crooked

of Crooked Can’s original brewing process. “He

Can’s first statewide can distribution. With less

[Kent] was old school, with hardcore experience

than 400 miles between the brewery and the

out in the field, for decades at this point, and

farthest ABC (Destin) from Crooked Can, this

I was the young, whipper-snapper fresh from

will be some of the freshest beer on our shelves.

brewing school (Siebel Institute of Technology),”

As Chad said simply and truthfully: “The best

Chad explained, laughing. Kent swore he didn’t

beer is the freshest beer that you can drink.”

have to tone down Chad too much, though. “The solid education that he had was just the perfect partnership for us, coming up with recipes,” he

said. “Even just the suggestion of a Florida Common was totally his idea [for ABC’s 80th Anniversary beer]; for what we wanted to do I can’t think of a better style of beer.”

Steam Jack is styled after a traditional California common, an American-style lager fermented at warmer temperatures. Beers typical of this style showcase a malty body with evident hop

So what makes this Florida Common so uncommonly delicious and perfect for ABC’s 80th anniversary beer? “Steam Jack starts as an ale in the mouthfeel, at the beginning of your sip, and

Editor’s Note: Steam Jack is the last beer Chad

finishes as a lager. A lot of the mainstream folks

Holloway brewed for and with Crooked Can.

are used to that more lager, lighter flavor,” Kent

After its release, he will be working on a new

said. “It’s a perfect happy medium, really, for

project, still with his grandfather’s legacy in mind.

August/September 2014 | Page 7 October/November 2016 | Page 7

8 989 SOUT H OR ANGE AVE. OR LAND O, F LORID A 32824

BI G S T O R M OKTOBERFEST

Every year Florida brewers—both professional and homebrewers—compete in the Best Florida Beer Championship to see whose brew would be named the Best Beer in Florida. This year’s winner hails from Big Storm Brewing Co., a Tampa Bay-based brewery that has been making top-notch beers since 2012.

In addition to a Bronze in the Euro and International Beer category for their Helicity Pilsner and a Silver for Belgian Single in the Belgian/French Ales category, Big Storm Brewing snagged Gold in the Euro Dark Lager/Ale for their Oktoberfest Märzen Lager, which then went on to win the trophy for Best Beer in Florida 2016.

And that’s perfect because now choosing an Oktoberfest to drink all fall long is easier than ever. Drink local, drink award-winning, drink Big Storm Oktoberfest Märzen Lager.

Brewed in the traditional Bavarian style, this seasonal pours a brilliant amber and shows classic aromas and toasty flavors, sweet malt and a clean finish.

Pairings recommended by the pros at Big Storm include biscuits & gravy, chocolate truffles and gorgonzola cheese. Pairings recommended by Oktoberfest lovers worldwide include bratwurst and pretzels with dark mustard.