Wine Journal November/December

wine journal Novemb er/ D e c emb er 2016

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

The allure of the Trione Vineyards

The Petaluma Gap: California’s fresh AVA

5 Generations of Napa Winemaking

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com

It is well to remember that there are five reasons for drinking: the arrival of a friend, one’s present or future thirst, the excellence of the wine, or any other reason.

– Latin Proverb

newest AVA 3 California’s offers up some stunning vinos.

11 12

Napa winemaking through 5 generations. Read it all here.

5

Trevor Sheehan wines make for an easy itinerary in Napa.

6

Fresh holiday wines fit for the entire season.

13

We highlight Spain’s regions for its varied wine styles.

We chatted with Lisa Evich from SIMI – here’s what she had to say.

14

Paratus Vineyards: so incredible even the Old World lovers want some.

16

This Sonoma Coast Pinot is ripe with all the juicy cherry, licorice and spice that the holidays call for.

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates brings the best wines possible at the best price possible.

Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountr y.

We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.

8

Vineyards in Sonoma 10 Trione are special for more than three great reasons.

abcfws.com wine journal | A

The Petaluma Gap DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

I

n their book, American Wine, Jancis

Robinson and Linda Murphy write “Sonoma Coast is one of the most confounding AVAs in California.” From Marin County to Mendocino County and inland to include parts of Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Mountain and Carneros, it covers more territory than any other AVA but fewer vines when compared to other Sonoma AVAs, creating a spotty patchwork within its territorial expanse. No wonder winemakers and

doors in 2000 and the Kellers have been in the

A combination of stingy volcanic soil, rocky

vineyard owners are trying to subdivide it to

forefront of this new AVA petition process.

uplifts and cooling Petaluma Gap breezes all

get more clearly defined American Viticultural Areas. Two are proposed to break off from Sonoma Coast, a West Sonoma Coast AVA around Fort Ross in the north and the Petaluma Gap AVA in the south, where I visited two wineries this year: Keller Estate and Black Knight/Fault Line.

Petaluma Gap is most famous for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah grapes, and the Kellers grow all three as well as some Pinot Gris. Ana told us that first bud break occurs in The Gap and their two major vineyard sites are La Cruz and El Coro. From La Cruz they

combine to inspire the subtle textures and layers to these wines. In his 32 acres there are over 10 microclimates and Mitch knows each row intimately. From Pinot clones 667 (to give acid) to 828 (to give fruit), he knows which clone does best where.

make Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and

The property was originally a vineyard in the

Petaluma Gap is named for the break in the

Syrah — look for some of these in our stores

1800s but has since been a dairy and an apple

coastal mountain range that allows marine

in the new year. The El Coro is their highest

orchard until Mitch came in and brought the

winds and fog to flow inland around the

and windiest locale and where six different

vines back. The Fault Line Chardonnay has

town of Petaluma (also famous for being the

clones of Pinot Noir are planted. “We farm for

classic Sonoma characteristics, juicy fruit

location for American Graffiti) seeking out

each particular block (or site) by managing

meets plenty of rich butteriness, but gives a

the upper reaches of San Pablo Bay to the

the vigor, the soil and by watering very min-

definite nod to its Burgundian cousins show-

southeast. Petaluma Gap cuts inland, abutting

imally to ensure healthy, yet stressed vines,”

ing complex minerality, depth and tart apple

Sonoma Mountain and Southern Sonoma, yet

she explained.

notes in the finish. Though he used to sell his

would begin at Bodega Bay (also famous for The Birds) and go inland through Sebastopol to the southern edge of Santa Rosa. The Pacific sends consistent daily winds, on average over 8 mph, through The Gap. “That wind makes the grape skins tougher and thicker,” as Ana Keller of Keller Estates told us during our visit to her family winery. “Which brings more complex flavors to our wines.” The wind also shuts the vines down allowing for a longer hang time and more flavor maturity at lower sugar levels. Keller Estate opened its

Keller Estate is in southeastern corner of Petaluma, while Mitch Black is in the northeast corner, just south of Santa Rosa, with his

juice to Sonoma-Cutrer, he prefers a crisper, higher acid style of Chardonnay when he makes his own Fault Line Chardonnay.

Black Knight Vineyards. Here, on a true fault

The Petaluma Gap, cooled by ocean breezes,

line, he grows and crafts his Fault Line wines,

provides mitigating temperatures as well as

focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

plenty of sunshine. The two vineyards we

Purchased in 2007, this is a family endeavor

visited create wines that express a French

partnering with his wife and daughter,

style acidity from mineral-laden soils, really

a geologist. As Mitch says, “Great wine is

distinguishing their wines from their Sonoma

truly all about location.” Fault Line vines

cousins. Further proof of why they truly

straddle the Rodgers Creek Fault on top of

need their own AVA. o

Taylor Mountain.

wine journal | 3

WINE LIST WHITES CHARDONNAY

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay (p 12) Domaine Champy Meursault 2014 (p 7) Fault Line Chardonnay (p 3) SIMI Chardonnay (p 8) Trione Russian River Valley Chardonnay River Road Ranch 2014 (p 10)

RIESLING

Eroica Riesling (p 12) Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Dry Old Vines 2014 (p 7)

SAUVIGNON BLANC

Chateau Ste. Michelle Horse Heaven Hills Sauvignon Blanc (p 12) Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Sauvignon Blanc (p 11) SIMI Sauvignon Blanc (p 9) Trione Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc River Road Ranch 2015 (p 10)

REDS BRUNELLO

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino (p 6)

CABERNET SAUVIGNON Block 80 Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (p 5) Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (p 12) Octopoda Oakville Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (p 5) Paratus Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (p 14)

wine journal | 4

Precision Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (p 5) Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (p 11) SIMI Cabernet Sauvignon (p 8) Trione Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Block Twenty One 2011 (p 10)

MERLOT Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Howell

Mountain Merlot (p 11) SIMI Merlot (p 9)

PETITE SIRAH Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Petite

Syrah (p 11)

PINOT NOIR Malk Family Vineyards Pinot Noir (p 16) SIMI Pinot Noir (p 9)

PORT Graham’s Vintage Port 2011 (p 7)

Taylor-Fladgate Vintage Port 2011 (p 6)

RED BLEND Pestoni Family 1892 Field Blend (p 11) Hierogram Atlas Peak/Coombsville Blend 2013 (p 5) Hindsight 20/20 Red 2014 (p 6) Navigator Red Blend (p 5)

SPARKLING Charles Mignon Brut Cuvée Comte de Marne Grand Cru (p 6) Charles Mignon Brut Rosé Cuvée Comte de Marne Grand Cru (p 6) Moutard Brut Grand Cuvée (p 6)

One-Stop Napa

Octopoda 2014 Oakville, Napa

S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M

This past summer’s trip through Napa has

his time with each lot, blending, barrel aging,

been well documented, and many of our faithful

raising the wines until he believes they are com-

readers have seen blogs, tweets and even a Wine

plete. Although he is constantly rooting out new

Journal piece or three detailing the back roads,

sources of juice, he keeps a few more permanent

cool cellars, young wines and late dinners that

contracts with small growers to ensure a constant

This, I promise, will not be another one of those

Block 80, a 2013 Atlas Peak and consistent supply of some of his better known Cabernet and ABC’s 80th anniversary wine labels. He told me he has sources from Beckstoffer

mouth-watering articles.

Vineyards, Turnbull and the Dutton Ranch in the

accompany trips like these. Been there, love that!

We paid our dues, spending four long days bouncing from cellar to tasting room, restaurant

Russian River Valley, a few in Oakville, and others throughout Napa, Sonoma and Lake County.

to picnic table out back under the big tree, all

We have been offering Trevor’s wines for a few

while tasting wine after wine in hopes of finding

vintages now, but it was not until this past spring

good juice for some of our private label projects,

that I got to meet him and his pal Don in down-

most importantly our Block Series. Tasting the

town Napa. At a restaurant. A restaurant that was

2015 vintage was exciting and a bit intimidating

under construction—it seemed Trevor was in the

not for the wine, but for the prices. As 2015 was a

process of opening Napa’s newest eatery, a place

short crop, some say 40% down from 2012-2014,

I have learned recently opened in July of 2016: the

the prices were up and that makes the selection

Corner Napa, a modern looking eatery with over

process more important than ever. We were

a thousand wine selections. Their website states,

tasting many wines, but with only intermittent

“The Corner Napa features seasonally driven

pockets of quality… That is until Thursday eve-

cuisine with a fresh interpretation on American

ning, our last stop of the trip.

classics. Paired with handcrafted cocktails and the

If you have not heard the name Trevor Sheehan, you are not alone. But I am pretty certain you have heard of some of his wines. If you haven’t yet, you might like to finish reading, jump in the car and get to the closest ABC Fine Wine & Spirits to find his stuff. It’s that good! I spoke at length with him in August about his business model. He’s very passionate about wine with a taste for French wines and an appreciation for quality, which shows in each of his labels.

Hierogram 2013, a blend from Atlas Peak/ Coombsville (thus, Napa Valley AVA)

Precision 2013 Cabernet Napa Valley

best wines from near and far.” We didn’t get the chance to dine there, as they were still under construction, but Morimoto Napa is right next door, and that was an unbelievable dining experience!

Don Echevarria works closely with Trevor, on the shipping/storage/logistics side of the operation, as well as managing the wine inventory at The Corner Napa. Together we tasted through his offerings for the season. Stop by ABC and look

Navigator Red Blend 2013

for these wines from Trevor! o

Trevor moved to Napa from Dallas in 2008 to be in the wine business. He made his first wine, a Chardonnay from Beckstoffer Vineyard fruit, in 2008 and his first Cabernet, sourced from the Coombsville AVA, in 2009. He doesn’t own vineyards, or a winery, or, as of today, a facility. But he does do something a bit different than many others involved in the business of buying and selling wine. Rather than buy and sell, he spends wine journal | 5

Wine for the Holidays BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER

C

ould there be a better time for en-

joying wine than the holidays? Giving special wine as gifts and enjoying it with meals brightens the end of another

Mignon’s Comte de Marne is 55%

year and starts the new one on

Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. It’s a

a high note.

selection of 15% of the top wines from

Large bottles can handle holiday meals when there are more than a few people at the table. They also age well and can last for decades in the wine cellar. Of course, these wines also come in the standard 750mL size.

the Grand Cru vineyards. It opens with floral and toasty aromas followed by a long, elegant middle and crisp finish carried on tiny bubbles. This is a great food or celebration wine. $47 (750mL)

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2010 – Tuscany, Italy

Charles Mignon Brut Rosé Comte de Marne Grand Cru – Champagne, France

Brunello di Montalcino from Tusca-

This is one of the few rosés produced

ny is always a stellar gift. From the Sangiovese grape variety, it can age almost endlessly. La Gerla’s Brunello is consistently one of the stars of the region and we get some of the magnums in wooden gift boxes for the holidays. $130 (1.5L) Hindsight 20/20 Red 2014 – Napa, California

from Grand Cru vineyards. Made from 55% Pinot Noir and 44% Chardonnay with a little still Pinot Noir from Bouzy for extra color, the wine has light orange color, fresh strawberry aromas and an elegance that sets it apart from lesser rosés. $47 (750mL)

This is a new one from Napa. A blend

Taylor-Fladgate Vintage Port 2011 – Douro, Portugal

of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cab-

“Powerful, featuring concentrated dark

ernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the wine shows dark ruby color, dried cherries, raspberries, coffee, cocoa, minerals and oak with a rich finish. $50 (1.5L) Moutard Brut Grand Cuvée – Champagne, France Moutard’s Brut Grand Cuvée is one of the best values for a magnum in Champagne. It exudes the toasty notes of quality Champagne with tiny bubbles and a long, lingering finish. It’s just the right size for New Year’s Eve parties. $70 (1.5L) wine journal | 66

Charles Mignon Brut Cuvée Comte de Marne Grand Cru – Champagne, France

plum and spicy cherry flavors that are finely balanced, showing notes of raspberry preserves. The mocha and wild herb accents are interwoven and supported by powerful tannins. The finish offers intense grip and violet hints. 97” Wine Spectator $95 (750mL)

Graham’s Vintage Port 2011 – Douro, Portugal “It has a more “serious” bouquet compared to the Dow, with beguiling scents of blackberry, wild hedgerow, tobacco and cloves. Straight-laced, very well-defined and compelling, the palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and supremely welljudged acidity. It is utterly harmonious, with a pure core of ripe black cherries, damson, marmalade, clove and spices, and the finish lingers long in the mouth. 97” The Wine Advocate $90 (750mL) Domaine Champy Meursault 2014 – Burgundy, France Champy’s Meursault is the perfect match for turkey with a light gold color, notes of peach and subtle oak carried on bright acidity. Turkey needs a wine like this to counterbalance its full flavor. $55 (750mL) Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Dry Old Vines 2014 This wine shows the bright red apple notes of Riesling with minerality and a crisp, dry finish. It’s a good match for subtle foods like shellfish or grilled fish. $22 (750mL)

wine journal | 7

5 Questions with SIMI winemaker Lisa Evich MEGHAN GUARINO • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • MEGHANG@ABCFWS.COM

A

vineyards, sustainably. So we wanted to go

ning wineries and with a history of women

ahead and get the certification for that. It’s

at the reins, SIMI is a gem in Sonoma Coun-

not something we really use to promote

ty. This year SIMI celebrates its 140 year

ourselves or talk about a lot, it’s just kind

anniversary, and winemaker Lisa Evich took

of an intrinsic part of what we do and who

some time to tell us what the winery brings

we are and what our values are.

s one of the longest continuously run-

to the table.

In 2010 you launched a Pinot Noir. Why did

140 years is quite a long time to be making

it take so long to bottle that varietal?

wine. How has the focus of SIMI wines

It fills out our portfolio of what we distribute

changed in that time?

really nicely. We made smaller amounts for

The changes are pretty dramatic from our

our tasting room for quite some time. And

first days of making wine. Back in the 1800s,

when we were thinking about making

the wines were mostly Mission grapes

a Pinot, we started working with our growers

(brought over from the California Missions),

because many of the growers that we work

and the Zinfandel that was brought over

with are in Carneros and the Russian River

from Italy in the early years before Prohibi-

Valley—those are areas that are very good

tion—nothing was bottled. It was bulk wine and it was sold in barrels and it wasn’t until after Prohibition that we started bottling our

In 2008 SIMI became green certified. Why was it important to receive that certification?

for growing Chardonnay and are also good for Pinot Noir.

What makes SIMI wines stand out among

wines and selling them to restaurants across

The green certification is for the winery

the country. Then in the ‘70s and ‘80s we

itself. We go through an audit every year

started developing the programs that we’ve

and they make sure we’re meeting all the re-

I think our wines stand out because they’re

stuck with to this day—like our Alexander

quirements, which we always do with flying

an excellent representation of what Sonoma

Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and our Sono-

colors. We were doing these things already—

County has to offer. There are 15 different

ma County Chardonnay—really focusing on

trying to operate our facility in a sustainable

distinct appellations within Sonoma County—

the grape varietals that grow best in our area.

manner—that’s how we farm our own

it’s a rather large growing area—and so

wine journal | 8

the rest, particularly your Cabernet?

we have the capability of producing a lot of different grape varietals and styles of wine. So we’re able to source consistently and produce wines that really reflect what Sonoma County has to offer.

What does it mean to you to be one in a long line of female winemakers for SIMI?

$12 SIMI Chardonnay Sonoma County 750mL

It’s such a great honor to be in these shoes.

I mean, just starting in our earliest days in 1904 when Isabelle Simi took over running the winery and was our first winemaker, to the ‘70s with Marianne Graff and Zelma Long

$17 SIMI Merlot Sonoma County 750mL

who are really pioneers and trailblazers in the world of women being involved in winemaking. It’s just a great honor to be part of that.

And it’s not just in our winemaking. We have an all-female winemaking team. But in our cellar, also. Half of our cellar crew is women.

It’s throughout and we’re really like a family here so it’s a really neat place to work.

We’re so inspired by our history and everything that Isabelle did to make this winery survive so many challenging times, like Prohibition, and just to be part of that history

$11 SIMI Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County 750mL

and legacy is really great. o

$20 SIMI Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 750mL

$19 SIMI Pinot Noir Sonoma County 750mL

wine journal | 9

A VERY SPECIAL PLACE – Trione Vineyards & Winery

BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

W

e didn’t quite know what to expect.

The ABC wine team was traveling in Napa and Sonoma, searching for new and exciting wines to bring back to our Florida stores.

One of our scheduled visits was to the

dry, refreshing and with enough complexi-

Chardonnay vines thrive in well-drained

ty to make it interesting.

soils, shrouded with fog cooled nights,

ABC is happy to offer three of the wines we had the pleasure of tasting that day. We add winemaker Scot Covington’s own notes.

ideal growing conditions. We made this wine using time-honored, traditional Burgundian protocols: pressing whole bunches for gentle juice extraction, settling the

Trione 2011 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Block Twenty-One ($56)

juice then racking directly to French oak

the winery itself is fairly new – it was

Our Block Twenty One Cabernet is a

aromas of apple, citrus and vanilla lead to

founded in 2005 – the Trione family has

selection from the Trione Cloverdale

been heavily involved in the wine

Ranch, located on the western flank of the

business for three generations.

Mayacamas Mountains, in the northern

Trione Vineyards & Winery, located in Geyserville in Sonoma County. Although

Henry Trione settled in Santa Rosa in 1948 and began a very successful career in mortgage banking. By the late 1960s he was able to develop his interest in vineyards and wine. Between 1970 and 1976 he bought properties in the Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Coast – each over a decade before they were given AVA status. Through most of the ‘80s and ‘90s the Trione family owned the very popular Geyser Peak Winery. At the same time they managed to increase their banking activities when, in 1983, Henry’s sons Victor and Mark co-founded Luther Burbank Savings.

In 2005 Mark and Victor founded the Trione Winery to craft small lots of wine from some 650 acres of their own vineyards. The first vintage was in 2008.

We arrived on a beautiful late-May morning and were graciously met by Denise Trione, winemaker Scot Covington and national sales manager Patrick Seymour.

After some pleasant conversation they kindly offered us a glass of their Trione Sauvignon Blanc. It was everything you could ask for in a Sauvignon Blanc – crisp,

wine journal | 10

barrels — 40% new. Elegant and seductive a smooth, silky palate — firm in structure, rich in flavor. The Chardonnay’s full dimension extends through a lingering finish

portion of Alexander Valley. The wine is a

with hints of orange peel and warm spice.

classic Bordeaux blend of 85% Cabernet

Trione 2015 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc – River Road Ranch ($20)

Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 2% each of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.

Growing season 2011 was relatively cool, thus promoting slow ripening, full flavor development and complex structure. We hand-harvested and fermented each variety, then moved the wines to barrel, where they aged six months. Once we determined our blend, we returned the wine to barrel for an additional 12 months, to ‘marry’ the varietals. Complex aromas foretell rich flavors of black currants, allspice and a hint of clove. Full-bodied with velvety texture, smooth tannins and an extensive finish.

Trione 2014 Russian River Valley Chardonnay – River Road Ranch ($29) River Road Ranch is a 115-acre jewel in the heart of the Russian River Valley AVA.

Our River Road Ranch is in the heart of the Russian River Valley appellation.

Sauvignon Blanc grapes thrive here in the well-drained gravel and clay loam soils.

We handpicked fruit from 15-year-old vines planted with clone #01, a selection with a distinguished history in California.

In 2015, the California drought conditions contributed to an early growing season with mild weather and a relatively light crop. We gently pressed the whole bunches and chilled the juice for two-three days, in stainless steel tanks. Aromas of rose petal, white peach and a mineral quality we describe as ‘wet stone’ extend to the full palate. The wine is luscious, highlighted with distinctive minerality and a firm, refreshing finish. o

The Pestoni Family, 5 Generations of Napa Winemaking PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

H

ighway 29 is undeniably one of the

Henry and Lena purchased land close

most famous wine routes in the world.

to Highway 29 on Whitehall Lane and

The section of road that stretches south

named it Pestoni Ranch. Today this

from Calistoga to the town of Napa is

vineyard is home to one of Napa’s best

nectarine as well as citrus notes.

home to many of America’s greatest

Sauvignon Blanc.

1892 Field Blend ($26)

Henry Pestoni had two sons, Bob and

A tribute to the type of wine that Albi-

wine estates. Some of the most iconic wineries on this road include Beringer, Schramsberg, Grgich Hills, Ingelnook and Robert Mondavi. Driving down Highway 29 it would be easy to overlook a little gem such as Rutherford Grove Winery.

Marvin, who did not immediately gravitate to the wine business. Instead they created a waste disposal service for the upper Napa Valley. By the 1980s they were processing nearly all the discard-

Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Sauvignon Blanc ($18) Aromas of guava, pineapple and

no Pestoni used to make 124 years ago.

A delicious blend of Zinfandel, which gives raspberry and pomegranate flavors; Cabernet Sauvignon, for flavors of dark cherry and fig; and Petite Sirah,

ed pomace (grape seeds, skins, stems)

for density and texture.

Rutherford Grove is an unpretentious

from local wineries into compost. Their

family owned winery located in the

company became the Upper Valley

Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Petite Sirah ($35)

historic Rutherford appellation of Napa

Disposal & Recycling Service.

Valley. It has been owned and operated by the Pestoni family since 1993 but the Pestoni story dates back to a time before any of us had ever heard of Napa Valley.

In the 1990s Bob felt his family legacy

rich aromas and toasty

calling and bought a small winery

flavors of plum, boysenberry and

between Highway 29 and the Pestoni

roasted meat.

Ranch. This modest winery is Rutherford Grove where some of Napa’s best

In 1882 Albino Pestoni immigrated

Cabernet, Merlot and Petite Sirah

from a humble Swiss village near the

are produced.

Italian boarder where he grew up. He settled next to some cousins at the base of Howell Mountain in Napa Valley.

This was at the same time that more distinguished vintners such as Frederick Beringer and Gustave Neibaum (Ingelnook) were also moving to Napa with dreams of producing wine in this faraway land. Ten years later in 1892 Albino, his wife and four sons planted their first vineyard.

Ten months of oak aging contribute

Today the Pestoni Family owns nearly 60 acres in four of California’s most celebrated AVAs: Rutherford, Howell

Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Howell Mountain Merlot ($60) Plush and expressive, bursting with black cherry flavors and silky tannins.

Rutherford Grove Pestoni Family Howell Mountain Cabernet ($60)

Mountain, Saint Helena and Lake

This classic Howell Mountain Cab

County. Long-serving winemaker Ale-

hides its tannic muscle well but I still

jandro Alfaro has been crafting some

recommend decanting for an hour

irresistible wines from the Pestoni Fam-

before enjoying. o

ily vineyards in recent years. Look for the following wines available in select ABC Fine Wine & Spirits stores.

Albino’s son Henry Pestoni followed in his father’s footsteps. Henry married Lena Domingos whose family vineyards were located on the western slopes of Howell Mountain. In 1923

wine journal | 11

STE. MICHELLE WINE ESTATES DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM

S

a brilliant job blending lots of Merlot from

of what these wineries do best, I suggest

wineries such as Col Solare, Northstar, Chateau

the Columbia Valley, Red Mountain, Indian

trying the following: Columbia Crest Grand

Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest, has lead the

Wells and Walla Walla regions to make what

Estates Chardonnay, Chateau Ste. Michelle

charge in Washington winemaking for nearly

is perhaps one of the best Merlots coming out

Columbia Valley Cabernet, Chateau Ste.

five decades. They’ve produced both the high-

of Washington. His wines are bold, rich and

Michelle Horse Heaven Hills Sauvignon

est rated white wine (2005 Eroica Single Berry

full-bodied. It is not uncommon for Merf to

Blanc and Eroica Riesling. These all sell

Select, 98 points) from Washington and the

use Cabernet Sauvignon to soften the wine,

for $30 or less, are found in most ABC Fine

only wine from here ever to be named the wine

highlighting a key stylistic difference between

Wine & Spirits locations, and rank amongst

of the year (2005 Columbia Crest Cabernet

Merlot grown in Washington versus California.

my favorites from Washington. o

te. Michelle Wine Estates, comprised of

Reserve) by Wine Spectator.

Col Solare and Northstar are certainly shin-

We started with a visit to Col Solare winery,

ing stars in the Ste. Michelle portfolio and are

a partnership with the Antinori family of

worth seeking out for special occasions, but the

Italy, who have been making wine for nearly

real testament to the quality of their winemak-

400 years. Col Solare, which in Italian means

ing lies in their less expensive offerings.

“shining hill,” is appropriately named given its location on a hill in the Red Mountain appellation, one of the warmest in Washington.

Unlike most wineries of their size, Columbia Crest and Chateau Ste. Michelle take great care to ensure even their inexpensive wines are given the rock star treatment. All of their red wines are aged in barrel, and at Columbia Crest, they even hand-stir their Chardonnay barrels destined for the grand estates bottling to give the wine extra complexity and flavor nuances. For a wine that sells for under $10, this practice is virtually unheard of.

So why do they do it? Because Ste. Michelle

Col Solare is always a Cabernet-based blend, with Merlot, Syrah and Malbec rounding out the balance. The grapes are all hand-harvested,

Wine Estates is committed to making the best wine possible at all price ranges, even if it means undergoing winemaking techniques

and once pressed, are handled with great care

that will cost them more.

by the winemaking team to ensure the highest

One of my coworkers, who was visiting these

quality. The wine is almost always aged in 100%

wineries for the first time, said it best: “I had no

new oak for an average of 22 months. The qual-

idea.” Until you see it firsthand, it is difficult to

ity of this wine has not gone unnoticed. Since

imagine that a group of their size can pull off

its first vintage in 1995, it has received a 90

making the amount of quality wine they do at

or better rating from at least one major

the various price ranges they offer. It was truly a

wine publication.

wonderful learning experience and one that all

The next morning we ventured over to Walla

wine lovers should seek to experience.

Walla for a visit to North Star Winery. Dave

In addition to the great wines of Col Solare and

“Merf” Merfeld is the winemaker and does

Northstar Merlot, if you want to get a good idea

wine journal | 12

Region Spotlight: Spain JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

T

raditionally Spain built its reputation on its

famous fortified wines. And while these are justly revered by wine lovers today, contemporary Spanish regions are home to distinctive wines in all styles (dry, fortified, sparkling and dessert) created from a dizzying array of indigenous grape varieties.

Wine regions in Spain are classified under the Denominacion de Origen (DO) system which supports 67 official areas across the country. The two regions of Rioja and Priorat are classified as the higher status Denominacion de

Rioja DOC: The classic red wine region of

and PX (Pedro Ximenez). The neighboring

Origen Calificada (DOC).

Spain, Rioja lies just south of the Cordillera

Montilla-Moriles DO near Cordoba produces

Spanish DOs/DOCs may incorporate certain

Cantábrica in the Ebro River Valley. Tempra-

fortified wines of similar style and character

nillo is the dominant red grape variety with

from 100% Pedro Ximenez.

defined terminology on the label to indicate how long the wines have been aged before

Garnacha (Grenache), Graciano and Mazuelo

release into the marketplace:

grape varieties also permitted. A small amount

DOC with Viura being the traditional white

Cosecha: The Spanish term for vintage.

of dry rosé and white wine is produced in this

Jumilla DO: A warm, southeastern DO that produces complex and structured red wines featuring the Monastrell (Mourvèdre) grape variety.

Crianza: A minimum of two years aging

grape variety.

before the wine can be released with at

least six months spent aging in small oak

Campo de Borja DO & Calatayud DO:

barrels. In Rioja and Ribera del Duero,

the minimum aging requirement is one

year in barrel aging followed by one year

in the bottle.

Reserva: A minimum of three years aging

produced including dessert-style Moscatel.

before release with one year spent in barrel.

Cava DO: The sparkling wine of Spain, Cava is

grape variety, Tinto Fino, is used to produce

Gran Reserva: A minimum of five years

primarily produced in the Penedès region from

intense, dark-fruited wines. Small amounts of

aging: two years in the barrel and three

approved varieties Macabeo (Viura), Paralleda,

Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon are also

years of bottle aging.

Xarel-lo and Chardonnay. Cava Rosado can

planted and sometimes used for blending.

Spanish DOs and DOCs of note Priorat DOC: Known for powerful red wines, Priorat is located east of Penedès, an area noted for its rocky soils. Wines are primarily produced from Garnacha and Cariñena (Carignan) grape varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Tempranillo can also be part of the blend.

Rias Baixas DO: Located in northwest Spain in the province of Galicia, this region

Located in Aragon, these relatively new DO

produces crisp, tangy white wines from the

regions (1980 and 1990 respectively) fea-

Albariño grape variety to pair with the fresh

ture mostly red wines from Garnacha and

local seafood.

Tempranillo and often represent very good price-to-quality values. Some white wine is also

contain the red grapes Garnacha, Monastrell and Pinot Noir.

Ribera del Duero DO: A famous red wine region situated on the valley slopes of the Duero River. A genetic variation of the Tempranillo

Rueda DO: A primarily white wine region located west of Ribera del Duero DO that

Jerez-Xeres-Sherry DO: Located in southwest

produces mouthwatering wines from Viura and

Spain, Sherry is the legendary fortified wine

Verdejo grape varieties. Some Sauvignon Blanc

produced from two white grape varieties:

is also planted.

Palomino and Pedro Ximenez. Seven differ-

Toro DO: Adjacent to the Rueda DO, this

ent styles of sherry are made ranging from delicately dry to richly sweet: Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, Cream

region specializes in purple-hued, full-bodied red wines produced from Tinto de Toro (Tempranillo). o wine journal | 13

PARATUS: A TRIUMPHANT TRIFECTA ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M

P

aratus! This is pinnacle territory

vines nestled in-between, resulting in the

where only select few have a foothold,

most amazing terroir. Paratus is a rare

and Paratus sits on the very top of the

gem and a true Grand Cru!

quality pyramid.

After climbing to the vineyard and

On June 2, our ABC wine team drove

getting detailed information from Robert

up the steep Mount Veeder Road almost

Jennings, tasting the wines was merely

all the way to the top where we were

a formality to make sure winemaker

warmly greeted by Robert Jennings, the

Massimo Monticelli is not sleeping at the

proprietor of the beautiful and impres-

wheel. I expected to be amazed, and cer-

sive Paratus Vineyard, in the prestigious

tainly was, even beyond my expectations.

Mount Veeder appellation. It was a great

Massimo heads the winemaking team

pleasure to be there; we were in for

with a strong assist from his brother,

a treat.

Mario. They are a 4-generation family

This domain was first farmed by Chandon, who terraced and planted the vineyard in the late ‘70s with Chardonnay vines with the intention of creating a very high-end Napa cuvée sparkling wine.

Robert Jennings and his wife Christina purchased the 80-acre property in 1999.

Paratus wine is produced from a dryfarmed, 12-acre single vineyard of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes planted on a steep slope (over 35˚ incline) on top of Mount Veeder—the county of Napa no longer allows planting on slopes that are inclined over 30 degrees, however this vineyard was fortunately grandfathered in. Dry-farming (the norm in France) is an extremely rare practice in California, but it produces small, dark berries of great intensity. At Paratus the vine roots have reached an average depth of 30 feet

of winemakers, beginning with their great-grandfather in Italy. Under Massimo’s careful and precise vinification, the wine gets the best expression of the terroir and the specificities of the vintage.

There are no ‘bad’ vintages at Paratus!

Robert Jennings is deeply passionate about his Paratus vineyard and is committed to working in harmony alongside nature and its rhythms and patterns, to listen more closely to it and to understand and preserve it. In his words, “In Latin, our name [Paratus] means prepared, ready. It represents our commitment to mindful preparation of soil, vines and grapes – a triumphant trifecta that creates estate-grown Cabernets with a luxurious balance of velvety texture, finely woven tannins and deep, dark fruited flavors.”

and are using the same pure water from

Currently available at ABC Fine Wine &

the aquafer as the surrounding Redwood

Spirits is the 2011 Paratus Mount Veeder

forest (there are no Redwood trees on the

Cabernet Sauvignon, which will be

actual vineyard site, probably due to an

followed shortly by the 2012 vintage

ancient landslide). Paratus is the symbi-

available in select ABC locations. o

osis between the Redwood trees and the wine journal | 14

wine journal | 15

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

Save $5 off your purchase of Malk Family Vineyards Pinot Noir (Limit one bottle) Note to Guest: To redeem the offer, please present this coupon and your ABC Rewards Card. Offer excludes items ending in 8. If more than one coupon is used in a transaction, the criteria for each coupon used must be met individually. This offer may be combined with the ABC Rewards $10 off $100+ wine discount if the wine total is $100 or more after this and all other coupons are applied. Coupon value cannot be doubled and may be used only once. The discount cannot be applied to prior purchases, special orders, gift cards, online orders, event tickets or sales tax. Valid on in-store, instock items only. Selection varies by store. This coupon has no cash value. Limit one coupon redemption per person per promotional period ending December 31, 2016.

W INE

TO

WATCH:

Malk Family Vineyards Pinot Noir AROMA :

BERGAMOT AND EARL GREY TEA F LAVO R :

Ripe black cherry, licorice, wild mint, spice and forest floor BO DY:

Medium

wine journal | 16

C O L O R:

LIGHT PURPLE

F I N I S H:

Satisfying and dense RE GI O N :

Sonoma Coast PA I R

WI TH: