wine journal Sept emb er/O ctob er 2017
ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E
BILTMORE your new everyday East Coast offering
e t n a v B ra a rd s Viney S E T A CRE I C M AG LOOKING DEEPER INTO PINOT NOIR
going e r a e W N EE GR a b ck. etails on D
The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2017 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved. Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you! Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8. Prices listed are for 750mL bottles unless otherwise noted. Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com
“Pinot Noir likes to be left alone as much as possible.” – Steve Doerner, Winemaker at Cristom Vineyards
Pinot is worth 3 Finicky the attention.
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Trione isn’t new on our radar, but it’s still a favorite.
In a time of soaring Napa prices, Paso Robles Ancient Peaks Winery offers quality too. Northern Italy was every bit as dreamy (and delicious) as you’d imagine.
Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list. Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountr y. We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.
abcfws.com wine journal | A
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Discover a new everyday East Coast wine at Biltmore.
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Oregon Pinot Camp 2017 was one for the books.
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2017 revealed many 16 10 ProWein new offerings.
Shayne is still dreaming about his Wine Country meals. Bravante creates magic effortlessly. Torchbearer Zinfandel is a full, rich option for evening grill outs.
P I N O T
N O I R
An American Favorite
BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER
P
inot Noir in America has become one of the
wine. The name means black pine, named for the
most demanded varieties, but it’s also a finicky
tightly packed clusters which resemble pine cones.
variety in terms of where it will flourish. Quite
The density of the clusters maintains moisture
honestly, it doesn’t belong in the Central Valley of
and makes the grapes susceptible to rot. The
California with the artichokes and potatoes.
variety also has a thin skin making it vulnerable to diseases and insects. The skins lend low levels of color to the wine which is usually light to mediumbodied. The variety is also vigorous and needs to be cropped low to produce the best versions. Wines from Pinot Noir are a study in subtlety. They don’t overwhelm the drinker with deep color, high alcohol or density. Young Pinot Noir usually leads
Dave Grooters of Carlton Cellars, in his Vineyard
with medium ruby color, red cherry, strawberry aging process can be more of a roll of the dice. The wines can go into a dumb stage with little showing.
where the weather is generally cool and the soil
Emerging from that, they sometimes develop
is stony. The variety has been planted around the
barnyard or vegetal notes. Only time will tell. This is
world, usually in terroir suited to its nature. It’s
more common in Burgundy and is appreciated by
one of the key ingredients in Champagne and
some Burgundy fans.
and Central Otago in New Zealand; the Casablanca Valley in Chile; the Ahr Valley and Assmannshausen in Germany; Tasmania, the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula in Australia; and Elgin and Walker Bay in South Africa. All are cool climate areas.
Because of its lighter style, Pinot Noir pairs well with a wide range of foods. Bigger variants, often from California, can match with stews, pork, duck and other fowl as well as rack of lamb. Coq au Vin is usually made with red Burgundy and is a classic match. Dishes with mushrooms are also often a good match for red Burgundies. The lighter styles
In the United States, Pinot Noir thrives in Oregon
can work with salmon and tuna, turkey, ham,
and California’s Central Coast, Sonoma Coast,
chicken and pasta dishes with cream or red sauces.
Russian River Valley, Anderson Valley and
It’s a very versatile variety with endless possibilities
Carneros where cool breezes from the ocean or
and styles.
San Pablo Bay allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. Again, it’s difficult to ripen and turn into
Boedecker Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard 2013 – Yamhill Carlton, Oregon “The 2013 Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard was matured in 50% new French oak (nine months, and 100% neutral French oak another 9 months) and is limited to 150 cases. It has a light cranberry and strawberry-scented bouquet… The palate is fleshy on the entry, quite Volnay-like in style. A little chewy but clean and pure on the finish. 90” -Wine Advocate, $60
or raspberry notes and medium tannins. The
Pinot Noir’s home ground is in Burgundy, France,
has found welcoming homes in Marlborough
ABC TEAM FAVORITES!
Josh Cellars Pinot Noir 2015 – Central Coast, California “Aromas of bright cherries, raspberries and toasty oak burst in the glass. Dark cherry, cocoa and vanilla bean flavors fill the mouth with a rich intensity and long finish. Pair this Pinot with hearty vegetables like Brussels sprouts, with turkey or duck, or with a decadent chocolate and caramel drizzled dessert.” -Winemaker notes, $14
Faiveley Mercurey 2014 – Burgundy, France “Laced with smoke and graphite notes, this red evokes cherry and raspberry fruit. Lively and crisp, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2018. 88” -Wine Spectator, $33
Valckenberg Undone Pinot Noir 2015 – Rheinhessen, Germany “Fresh, primary red cherry and raspberry flavors are punchy and bright on this easygoing Pinot Noir for everyday enjoyment. It’s not a complex wine but pristinely fruity, balanced neatly by a crush of cranberry acidity. The finish lingers elegantly marked by fine, feathery tannins. 89” -Wine Enthusiast, $10
Pinot Noir in Champagne’s Marne Valley
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WINE LIST RED BARBERA
ZINFANDEL
Ancient Peaks Zinfandel p 11
Torchbearer Zinfandel p 16
Giorgi CostaRosa Sangue di Guida p 13
Pavia Barbera d’Asti La Marescialla p 13
Pavia Blina Barbera d’Asti p 13
WHITE
Pavia Moliss Barbera d’Asti p 13
ARNEIS
BLEND
CHARDONNAY
Bravante 2012 Trio p 15
Cascina Chicco Roero Arneis Anterisio p 12
CABERNET FRANC
Ancient Peaks Chardonnay p 11
Trione Russian River Chardonnay p 5
Bravante Cabernet Franc 2010 p 15
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
MUSCAT
Ancient Peaks Cabernet Sauvignon p 11
Biltmore Estate Cabernet Sauvignon p 7
PINOT GRIGIO
Bravante Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 p 15
Trione Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon p 5
MERLOT
Bravante Merlot 2010 p 15
NEBBIOLO
Castello del Poggio Moscato d’Asti p 13 Biltmore Estate Pinot Grigio p 7
RIESLING
A to Z Riesling p 8
Biltmore Estate Johannisberg Riesling p 7
SAUVIGNON BLANC
Trione Russian River Sauvignon Blanc p 5
Cascina Chicco Barolo Reserva Ginestra p 12-13
Cascina Chicco Langhe Nebbiolo p 12-13
PINOT NOIR
A to Z Essence Pinot Noir p 8
Boedecker Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard 2013 p 3
Faiveley Mercurey 2014 p 3
SPARKLING
Josh Cellars Pinot Noir 2015 p 3
Trione Russian River Pinot Noir p 5
Valckenberg Undone Pinot Noir 2015 p 3
RIOJA
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Cune Rioja Crianza p 10
ROSÉ
Biltmore Estate White Zinfandel p 7
Giorgi MoscaRosa Sweet Rosé p 13
Collalto Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry p 10
Moutard Brut Grande Cuvée p 10
T R I O N E V I N E YA R D S & W I N E RY, A SONOMA COUNTY GEM PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM
E
Covington filled. The Triones basically gave Scot a blank piece of paper and said, “Design your winery.” The current state-of-the-art building is customized to accommodate small lots of hand-crafted wines.
arlier this year our wine team embarked on our annual California exploration trip. We travel West every year in search of new opportunities and to cement existing relationships. One of our most successful discoveries from last year’s ventures was our visit to Trione Vineyards in Sonoma County. The Trione wines have been so well received by our guests that we thought another stop should be part of our itinerary this year.
Scot learned the art of winemaking from years of training under such Sonoma County icons as Bill Bonnetti and Mary Edwards. Today, Scot tells us that he is living a winemaker’s dream as he has his choice of the finest grapes grown in the Trione Family vineyards. Scot selects the top three percent of grapes from the estate vineyards, and the rest is sold off to some of the biggest names in the industry.
The Trione name has only appeared on the label since 2005, however the family has played a significant role in the success of Sonoma County for more than four decades. Henry Trione, the family patriarch, arrived in Santa Rosa in the 1940s and through his hard work became one of the leading postwar power brokers in Sonoma County. Today he is most remembered for his great philanthropy and as a shrewd financier who made a fortune in timber, real estate, banking and wine. Yes, wine has been part of the Trione family legacy since the beginning.
We toured the winery and surrounding vineyards with president Mark Trione, who is a dedicated farmer of 40 years, and his daughter Denise who oversees sales and marketing. Mark was beaming with pride and quick to point out that his daughter is the real boss around here. He told us that it was Denise who prodded he and her grandfather to develop the family winery.
Henry’s sons Mark and Victor along with his granddaughter Denise convinced Henry to start the family winery in 2005. As owners of five ranches with nearly 700 vineyard acres in the Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations, the all-important source of premium grapes would not be a problem.
Over lunch, Denise spoke of her love of being part of a family business and their commitment to the Sonoma County community. The Triones help shape the landscape of their home in ways that are too numerous to mention. Her grandfather was a man of great humility and he obviously passed this trait down to his sons and granddaughter. It was a delight to feel the passion they have for this Sonoma County gem.
With some of Sonoma County’s best vineyards at their disposal, the next task was to find a winemaker. As they still did not have an actual winemaking facility of their own, they looked for a winemaker who had design, construction and wine production experience—a tall order that Scot
T H E F O L L O W I N G W I N E S A R E AVA I L A B L E A T S E L E C T A B C F I N E W I N E & S P I R I T S S T O R E S : Trione Russian River Sauvignon Blanc, $20 Crisp and floral with aromas of white peach, tangerine, chive and white pepper. Tropical hints of guava and mango are also present. This wine pairs fantastically with oysters on the half shell or grilled mahi.
Trione Russian River Chardonnay, $29 I love this Chardonnay and I don’t say that very often. Balance is the key here, possessing both elegance and structure in a classic Russian River style.
Trione Russian River Pinot Noir, $40 Aromas of dark cherries, exotic baking spices, green tea and forest floor await you. Silky on the palate with a long savory finish. Impossible to have just one glass.
Trione Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $60 Complex aromas of black currants, allspice and a hint of clove. Full-bodied with a velvety texture, smooth tannins and a long finish. A relative bargain in today’s world of $100+ Napa Cabernets.
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Everyday East Coast Wines: THE BILTMORE ESTATE ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM
A
little less than 600 miles north of
our corporate headquarters in Orlando, a
grapes on property, one of Sharon’s favorite
fairytale-esque château drapes itself over the
aspects of the job is the opportunity to choose
misty hills of Asheville. The Biltmore estate
fruit from renowned regions all over the US.
will be the destination of almost 200,000
“From Monterey all the way to Mendocino,
visitors this fall – with its lavish vineyards
Lake County to Sonoma. Say Monterey
and glamorous allure, its an easy choice for
fruit isn’t so great one year, I can blend in
an autumn getaway. It’s also the home of
some fruit from Mendocino. It gives more
an excellent offering of everyday East
consistency of product,” Sharon explained.
Coast wines.
Even with so many different areas to work
To explain a little bit more about how everyday wines came to be at the Biltmore, Sharon Fenchak (winemaker), shared the ins and outs of the Biltmore wine portfolio. It all started with William Cecil Sr., George Vanderbilt’s grandson, when he “envisioned a
consistent. “We’ve been working with growers for over 20 years, but if you know the area and the region, then things stay even,” Sharon said. “Once in a while we’re surprised… and we have to get a little bit more creative.” The winery also works to create their wines
of his grandfather’s estate. He had the idea
sustainably. In addition to the geese, lambs,
of planting grapes on property in the ‘70s,
chickens and other animals that call the
and it was a risk at that time, because there
Biltmore property home, Sharon said,
weren’t a ton of vineyards planted in North
“We have canola that we use for biodiesel,
Carolina then. The whole idea was that it’s
and will eventually use for the restaurant... we
a self-sustaining property, with sustainable
have a vineyard on property which of course
agriculture,” Sharon told us.
goes into the wine product. We have a field
because let’s be honest, North Carolina isn’t exactly what you think of when you think of
to table program. The veggies are used in the restaurants. The idea is to be as sustainable as possible.”
Wine Country. “The ideal growing scenario
Unlike visitors to California and other
here in North Carolina is pretty much a
West Coast wine regions, a lot of the people
drought during ripening, and that comes
going to the Biltmore have never been to a
every few years. But the majority of the time
winery or even tasted wine. Because of this,
we’ll have to deal with a lot of humidity and
the Biltmore finds an opportunity—and
rain in this region. So we have to really stay
responsibility—for wine education. “We’ll
on top of taking care of the grapes,” Sharon
take people through the process, show them
said. Staying on top of the mildew and
how it’s made, taste through the wines, and
implementing their spray program can be
it’s almost like they have this a-ha! moment
challenging though, especially if they get rain
and they realize all the artistry behind wine,”
three days in a row and it washes the spray away. Sharon confidently asserted that “the team is very experienced, and they do a great job taking care of the vines.” wine journal | 6
with, the Biltmore tries to keep their wines
winery that honors the agricultural heritage
But the risk is still technically there today
Sharon Fenchak
Though the winery plants both red and white
Sharon said. Another misconception is that because the Biltmore is based in North Carolina, they only have sweeter wines. The winery produces
Biltmore Estate Johannisberg Riesling $10
dry reds, dry creek wines, Sonoma, Napa and
signed on to these local products is the goal,
other American appellated wines. However,
and many have already committed to it.”
the North Carolina grapes bring certain elements to the profile of Biltmore wines. For Chardonnay, they typically do a North Carolina barrel-fermented wine that is wellbalanced and more delicate than California Chardonnay. There’s usually little heat, not
Committed to the wines or not, the Biltmore
Biltmore Estate White Zinfandel $6.49
Estate is a great place to get lost in another era or in the enchantment of the grounds. When you’re craving quality wines with maximum drinkability, remember Biltmore.
higher than 13% alcohol, and it’s much more approachable early on – it also doesn’t require as much aging. It’s perfect for people visiting the Biltmore, who are knowledge hungry and crave a more approachable wine. “You see, the biggest thing with this Southeast region
Biltmore Estate Cabernet Sauvignon $13
is getting people to try it,” Sharon said. “You might really, really like this, even though it’s not from Burgundy or Italy. Getting people
Biltmore Estate Pinot Grigio $10
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OREGON PINOT CAMP 2017
DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM
T
hirty years in the wine business and I’ve been lucky enough to have a few once-in-alifetime travel experiences, but for the ultimate wine geek that is me, my recent attendance of Oregon Pinot Camp 2017 (OPC) soared above all else. It wasn’t just the beauty of Willamette Valley: Most wine regions are beautiful. It wasn’t just the incredible food we were served: Most wine trips are foodie trips too. It wasn’t just the incredible array of great Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling we tasted. It was how we tasted those wines and the in-depth seminars they created for sommeliers, wine experts and wine educators. Not only did I learn nearly everything you can about Oregon viticulture and geology, I met “Somm” new lifelong friends. I understand why they tell us at orientation that we are not allowed to move to Oregon for at least a couple of years after OPC. They need to recoup their educational investment in us. Only about 270 people are invited each year to participate, and you must be in the industry and sponsored by one of the participating wineries. A to Z Wineworks was my sponsor and I stayed at their guest house with some great guys from Kansas City, Chicago and Seattle. Our first night we ate at a trendy restaurant, Ned Ludd, in downtown Portland before making our way to Willamette Valley. The next day we had a tour of the Rex Hill/A to Z Wineworks facility. Rex Hill was the original and still represents their top tier of wine production. A to Z, which started 15 years ago, was created to make great Oregon wines accessible to more people and to prove one can make high-quality Oregon wine at affordable prices. We tasted through the entire A to Z line including the Pinot Noir, Unoaked Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling, which we carry at ABC Fine Wines & Spirits. We also tasted the A to Z Essence Pinot Noir, $25, selected from the best lots of all their source vineyards and created
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as a celebration of their 15 years in business. It’s been said that Oregon is the lovechild of California and France, and this wine expresses that beautifully, with plenty of Cali ripeness and full, fruit-forward characters, but framed with French acidity and that beautiful hint of earthy rusticity that hearkens to Burgundy.
Later that afternoon we attended a pre-party at Domaine Drouhin, which featured Oregon Chardonnays and local crab. That night we had the true opening event at Sokol-Blosser winery featuring all of this year’s participating wineries. It was a “Who’s Who” of Oregon wineries with Domaine Serene, Stoller and Willakenzie each hosting events, to name only a few. Over the next two days we were bussed around in school buses, each with a different color and theme, ending with an incredible tasting and dinner at some really stunning venues. The seminars included “The Multiple Personalities of Oregon Pinot Noir” (exploring local, winemakers’ styles and recent vintages) to “Oregon Pinot Noir Winemaking” (with question and answer sessions) and “Hunting the Great White” (an exploration of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling with blind tastings). To have access to these highly regarded winemakers was incredible, and then to be able to socialize with them at each lunch and dinner made me feel more like family.
They make an excellent Pinot Gris and unoaked Chardonnay but it was the A to Z Riesling, $14, that jumped out at me, showing lemon notes, a light sweetness on the palate and a bright mineral edge with a lingering finish. This is a great wine to pair with spicy Asian dishes, and is packaged in a beautiful, etched bottle revealing their support of local bees. Stewardship of this special land was a major theme of the tour.
After two days of driving around McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, Chehalem Mountains, YamhillCarlton and Dundee Hills on one of the hottest days on record (and yes, I was on one of the buses that overheated, requiring a “bucketbrigade” of smaller vehicles and pickup trucks to get us to our last stop at Ponzi Vineyards, but that only shows the incredible communality I experienced), we attended an after party back in Portland which featured many of the smaller wineries that could not participate fully in the event. We also had some lesser-known Oregon varietals like Grüner Veltliner, Melon de Bourgogne, Müller-Thurgau and even some Gamay Beaujolais. After 18 years of these camps, they really know what they are doing. And so, in honor of this wonderful trip and region, encourage everyone to pop open a bottle of Oregon wine tonight!
A to Z artÂ
Paella
Hunting the Great White
Views at Sokol Blosser
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P ro We i n 2 0 1 7 JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM
B
ack in March I had the privilege of attending ProWein 2017 in Germany to hunt for great wines to source for our portfolio. From modest beginnings in 1994, ProWein is fast becoming the premier trade fair in Europe for wine producers and buyers. The event appears first on the annual trade show calendar and rivals older, more established events on the continent such as VinItaly and VinExpo in terms of prestige. But ProWein of late seems to be stealing some of its competitors’ thunder. The reasoning behind its success may boil down to the notion that ProWein is truly a great show, run with signature German efficiency. Judging from the throng of trade professionals in attendance, it is definitely a place where the business of wine gets done. Many producers confided that ProWein was a could-not-miss affair in terms of importance to their overall objectives. The conference is held annually over three days in Düsseldorf, Germany’s ninth largest city. ProWein’s home is the cavernous Messe Düsseldorf, a fairground complex of 17 hangar-like pavilions spread across nearly 65 acres of indoor space. Naturally, this translates into a great deal of walking that is difficult to quantify unless you’ve actually trekked several miles in a single day between appointments. The breadth of ProWein’s exhibitor list is mindboggling. Producers in attendance comprise a veritable who’s who in the global world of wine, with nearly 6,500 exhibitors representing more than 60 different countries. For the record, the 2017 conference broke all previous ProWein attendance numbers. Nearly 59,000 visitors from 130 nations, no less, filtered into of the facility during the event. So who did we visit and what can our guests expect to see over the coming months at their local ABC Fine Wine & Spirits stores? In short, our appointments were made partly with producers that we already have an on-going relationship with to taste their new vintages and try other selections from their portfolios. Then there were meetings with wineries and suppliers who were completely new to us. To both ends, our focus was primarily with the classic wine regions
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of Europe, as the very good 2015 and 2016 vintages presented many excellent offerings and options. Look for new selections from Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Rhône, Rioja and the Mosel of Germany for sure; some Italian wines too. One goal this year is to have more Champagne selections, including some in bigger bottles for your holiday celebrations. We also managed to procure new labels from California, Portugal and South America. One of our follow up appointments this year was with our friends from CVNE (Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España). This is one of Rioja’s legendary estates, established by the Asúa family in 1879. The Cune label wines are vinified at their historic Haro estate in Rioja Alta. Cune Rioja Crianza, $12, is mostly Tempranillo with a dollop of Garnacha and Mazuelo added for structure and complexity. The wine spends 12 months in American oak. It’s an elegant alternative to Pinot Noir with red cherry, violet, tobacco, spice box and mineral on the palate. On our second day, we stopped by the booth at Collalto, one of the top producers of Prosecco Superiore in the Veneto. Princess Isabella Collalto de Croÿ is in charge of the winery that bears her family name. Winemaker Adriano Cenedese produces a stellar Collalto Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry, $15, from 100% estate fruit, with complex pear and Fuji apple accents and a beautiful bead of tiny bubbles on a long, balanced finish. The Champagne house of Moutard-Diligent makes their distinctively full-bodied, non-vintage Moutard Brut Grande Cuvée, $32, entirely from Pinot Noir grown on the prized Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone deposits found in their CÔte des Bar vineyards. This Champagne sports a lovely golden hue with rich notes of pear, hazelnut and toast with delightfully persistent minerality.
Ancient Peaks Winer y DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM
W
ith prices continuing to soar in Napa Valley, lovers of California wines have begun to look elsewhere to find good values throughout the state. That is not to say that good value doesn’t exist in Napa anymore. It has just become increasingly tough to find it. Fortunately for retailers and wine lovers alike, we have seen a huge surge in quality from other areas, including Lake County, Monterey and Paso Robles. On a recent buying trip to California, the ABC wine team spent several weeks scouting the state for top quality producers offering exceptional value. Our search spanned from Sonoma County all the way down to Santa Barbara and resulted in some great additions to the ABC portfolio. One of these finds, Ancient Peaks Winery in Paso Robles, recently hit the shelves at ABC.
Ancient Peaks Winery is family owned and operated by three families who farm the thousand-acre Santa Margarita Ranch in the Santa Margarita Ranch AVA in the southernmost part of Paso Robles. Their proximity to the Pacific Ocean (14 miles) and the Santa Lucia Mountains provide a unique terroir for the region. They have one of longest, coolest growing seasons in Paso Robles, get ample rain fall and have a unique diversity of soil types. This allows for maximum flavor development across an array of grape varieties producing wines of great structure, flavor and balance. Santa Margarita holds the distinction of being the only vineyard to have its own AVA in California. The ranch was first acquired by the families in 1999. Shortly thereafter, it was leased to Robert
Mondavi Winery, who recognized the uniqueness of this area, did extensive research and planted several grape varieties, most notably Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. In 2005, the families took over control of the vineyards, and Ancient Peaks, whose name was inspired by the mountains their vineyards border, was born. Life doesn’t stop at producing exceptional wines at Ancient Peaks. They also operate one of the area’s oldest cattle ranches and for the outdoor adventurer, a zip line course! On our visit, we had the opportunity to try out the zip lines. The course consisted of six lines, the first of which was over 2,800 feet long, about 100 feet high and only mildly terrifying. I’m kidding. It was an experience never to be forgotten. And the best part? The zip lines flew us over their vineyards!
ABC is proud to carry three wines from Ancient Peaks Winery. Their Chardonnay ($15) is aged for eight months in stainless steel (80%) and French oak (20%). The resulting wine is a balance between a brighter, leaner, more food-friendly style and a richer style from partial malolactic fermentation and oak aging. In an area dominated by high-quality reds, this was a surprise and a great find. Their Cabernet Sauvignon ($18), which has a splash of Zinfandel blended in, is aged for 16 months in a combination of French and American oak. It leads with notes of black cherry and cassis balanced by touches of black olive and tobacco. It’s a broad, flavorful wine that packs a ton of flavor but is easy on the tannins. For anything off the grill, it’s a perfect pairing. Lastly, we have their Zinfandel ($18). Aged for 17 months in French and American oak, this is a special wine that showcases what this area can do with a grape variety that deserves much more attention. Loaded with flavors of blackberry jam, spice, cherry and mocha, this lush, velvety Zinfandel coats your taste buds with flavor. It was recently featured as a top value for Zinfandel in Wine Spectator Magazine and is not to be missed. It, too, pairs perfectly with anything off the grill. Next time you visit your local ABC, look for the wines from Ancient Peaks Winery. I am certain you’ll find their quality and value among the best we offer in their price ranges. And if you’re ever out West be sure to check out their ziplining adventure and tasting room. It’s an experience you’ll never forget.
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NORTHERN
I TA LY
DAVID KLINE, WINE & SPIRITS SPECIALIST – JUPITER
T
he concept of farm to table has been the hot topic in recent years, and for good reason. Local goods are fresher. They come from our neighbors which means we can visit the places of their origin and verify the conditions under which they were grown or raised. Entrepreneurs can talk to farmers and producers face to face and work with them intimately to improve their product quality and better address local tastes. This also explains the explosion of interest in regional craft and artisan beers, wines and spirits. We can be certain that when we purchase these locally produced goods, we are contributing to real communities and consuming better food and drink. While a relatively new concept for us, the idea of the local is intrinsically knitted into the very fabric of the Italian way of life. After the fall of Rome, the idea of “the city” was the principio ideale, or “principle concept,” and this notion has informed almost every aspect of Italian life. It created small, functional economies and fostered a healthy competition between localities to produce better goods than their neighbors and cemented the importance of the local farmer in the supply chain. Many historians attribute this concept of locality as an important contributing factor in the emergence of the Renaissance, an era of art, architecture and sheer creative genius that is
forever celebrated and well-documented. The result is a country known for its flamboyant style, fantastic food and stellar wines made from stellar grapes that often refuse to grow anywhere except in their own native soils. This is certainly the case with Nebbiolo, the principle grape in both Barolo and Barbaresco. These are the king and queen of Northern Italian wine, where the king, noble, austere and commanding stands firm like the Alps which surround Piedmont; the Queen contemplative, generous and open as the verdant, terraced valleys and picturesque, welcoming skies that envelop its majesty. Nebbiolo is a grape that refuses to produce wines of equal elegance and structure anywhere outside the relatively small parameters of its ancestral home in Piedmont. My wife and I were fortunate enough to sample many fine examples of this wonderful varietal on our honeymoon in Piedmont recently. It is important to note that Barolo branched into two distinct styles. The modern style employs new French oak barriques, often displays a darker color and is drinkable in a relatively short time. The traditional style is noticeably lighter with an orange tinge, is aged in large casks and takes extended cellaring to soften the very prominent tannin. Maceration times differ by many weeks, but both are aged for as long as 4-5 years. Modern Barolo was created to appeal to the English and American tastes and visual aesthetic, but the traditional style is making a tremendous rebound with collectors and loyal fans, because the wines have greater aging potential. A third style is emerging, Neo-
traditional perhaps, with many borrowing from the best aspects of both. A great example of a winery making tremendous strides is Cascina Chicco. Enologist brothers Enrico and Marco Faccenda are creating delicious and compelling wines of structure, integrity and nuanced power, with Enrico’s wife Lara serving as ambassador and marketing strategist. Together, their dedication produces wines like their Barolo Riserva Ginestra, $93. Grown in a soil high in chalk, limestone and fossilized shells, it is a stately Barolo worth seeking, as each sip embodies finesse and sophistication from entry to its stunning, persistent culmination. If the price is daunting, remember it is a 7-year, labor-intensive process before it hits the market. If you simply want to see if you will like the varietal, opt for the Cascina Chicco Laghe Nebbiolo, $22. At an average of 20-year-old vines, you will certainly get a Barolo-esque experience for a quarter of the price. White wine fans will want to sample Cascina Chicco’s “white Barolo,” the Roero Arneis Anterisio, $21, from Canale, recognized as one of the premier places for the cultivation of this refreshing and food-friendly white wine. Barbaresco is not so steep nor the hills as faceted as Barolo. Instead they endlessly roll to the horizon in all directions and the climate is drier. The result is a wine generally accessible earlier, though they are just as compelling.
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We visited the winery of Giorgio Pelissero in Treiso which sits on a high hilltop which allows an almost 360-degree view of the surrounding vineyards. They have just completed construction of a stunning tasting room with unrivaled views of the Langa Hills. We were wowed by the outstanding array of Barbarescos our eloquent and informed guide Francesca presented. Each vineyard offered a sense of terroir strikingly different from the previous. The mainstay Nubiola is 100 percent Nebbiolo from the east, south and west lots and should be on every discerning wine drinker’s radar. The quality is astronomical. Afterwards, we enjoyed the local pasta with shaved truffles beneath the iconic Torre di Barbaresco at the aptly named Antica Torre, savoring a lovely single vineyard Pelissero that certainly held its own at court. Barbera will forever take a seat behind the royals in Piedmont’s heirarchy, but some of the finest examples come from the Monferrato region where, just south of the town of Asti, one can travel through some of the most profoundly idyllic landscapes in Italy to arrive at the winery of Agostino Pavia above the township of Agliano Terme. If local was your goal, you have essentially struck the mother-lode of small production gold. The flagship Barbera d’Asti Superiore Marescialla, $27, is one of my all-time favorites. It offers rich, ripe fruit tempered by satisfying herbal complements with light vanilla and keeps itself interesting with chocolate and an array of welcome nuances, including hints of earthy richness. This is a vibrant, powerhouse wine fit for a feast of diverse courses or for any comfort food combo you can imagine. For value Barbera d’Asti, the winery’s Moliss, $15, is a must, and for hot days, the un-oaked Blina, $13, is the perfect inexpensive Barbera d’Asti in a lighter style for al fresco dining or a simple meat and cheese plate. For dessert lovers, nothing satisfies like a Moscato d’Asti. Castello del Poggio, $14, should be known to many. Rich in Templar history, they produce Moscato d’Asti with a reputation for lightness both in alcohol (7%) and in body, which make it an ideal sweet wine for light fare.
Among Italy’s greatest secrets are the high-quality sparkling wines that abound. None can boast the commitment to quality like Giorgi, who have consistently produced wines of the highest caliber since 1870 and have countless awards to prove it. While their dessert wines, like Costa Rosa, $14, and Mosca Rosa, $13, enjoy enormous popularity stateside, it is shame that their sparkling wines produced with the same methods and attention to detail as the finest French offerings are not better known. If you see one, grab it. You will be richly rewarded. My wife and I sipped through the panoply of wines at the Giorgi tasting room in Oltrepo Pavese with Fabiano, his wife Ileana and his lovely sister Eleonora. On the terrace of the Bazini Ristorante in Canneto Pavese, we were served a luncheon that highlighted these wonderful wines paired with local dishes against a picturesque backdrop of curvaceous, terraced hills. We sat with a prominent Italian wine critic who is widely followed as well as the proprietors of a large wine society, and there was no question in anyone’s mind that these wines generally outshine any of their domestic or foreign competitors at a comparative steal. So whether you prefer sweet and bubbly or dry and complex, the name Giorgi should be in your mental database and in your Italian wine thoughts when you reach for anything with bubbles. I cannot say enough about the generosity of the Italian people, particularly the winemakers who took their time to explain the nerdy minutiae of their craft to this kid in a candy shop. I am very fortunate to find such patient and kind hosts willing to tolerate my novice attempts at the Italian language and to point me in the direction of the best local wining and dining. I am equally fortunate to have found a wife who values wine and its culture nearly as much as I do and has a willingness to traipse through hilly vineyards and taste through dozens of wines at a sitting. Salute!
EATING OUR WAY THROUGH Wine Country S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M
C
an we all agree that grapes don’t grow in
ugly places? Most wine regions offer beautiful scenery, some breathtaking and some with subtle elegance, but always beauty. And if wine grapes are growing, there’s a very good chance the table will be well set. It’s one secret reason we look forward to returning to Wine Country – the wine, the food, the people and the setting.
find, assuring myself that the rest of the week
That ended the first day, and so far, beef only
would be packed with wise food choices.
four meals in a row!
The morning came early and I took a hike
A few notable bites: A tasting with Joe Wagner
through the vineyards at Fault Line Winery—
and his Copper Cane wine projects with lunch
cold, misty and completely fog covered,
up on Howell Mountain on the second day,
precisely why these vineyards are where they
followed by dinner with the Indelicato family
are. I met the rest of my group at the Fremont
at their home—an annual treat and about the
Diner for breakfast. Have you ever had a
thickest sirloin you can imagine, but I
smoked brisket and burnt ends hash with over-
powered through.
About the same time I begin packing for these
easy eggs on top? Rich? Oh, yes. The service
excursions (usually the night before the flight),
was just relaxed enough so it was time for
I try to promise myself that this time I will eat
lunch by the time we finished breakfast, so we
more veggies and seafood and less red meat,
drove down past the Petaluma Gap to Ram’s
moderate amounts of wine and skip the sweets.
Gate Winery, where we tasted wine and had
It’s like making a New Year’s resolution, and like
filet mignon for lunch.
those annual failed promises, I don’t do well.
Our next tasting, which included dinner, was
The healthy eating tour began well. We left
in downtown Napa. Here we tasted through
San Fran and stopped for lunch in Sausalito
many barrel samples before we sat down to
at Scoma’s, where we behaved well, ordering
dinner (I thought we already ate dinner?)
oysters and cioppino, a tomato broth fish
and we enjoyed… filet mignon. I wasn’t even
soup. That’s about as long as my self-imposed
hungry if I recall, but I didn’t let that stop me.
health kick lasted. We drove to Santa Rosa
Roulot Meursault, 1970 Inglenook Limited
and arrived at Mitch Black’s guest home and
Cask Cabernet and 1955 Château Siran
unpacked. I drove to town and bought some
rounded out that exceptional dinner quite well.
wine and the three thickest sirloins I could
On day three, we dined al fresco at Cosentino in Yountville, with a delicious array of fresh salads and Pinot Blanc. After a tasting with Carolyn Wente at Bell Winery, we finished the day at REDD restaurant in Yountville, and I ordered fish! Our final full day, we met Clay Shannon and his team at Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch in Saint Helena and tasted through his new vintages, which were lovely, and had lunch before running back down to the village of Napa for dinner. We ate at Osteria Ca’ Momi, where I ordered the tripe, because it sounded healthy – it was fabulous. I haven’t eaten since!
VISITING BRAVANTE ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M
O
n my first day back from California, with the memories still fresh in my mind, one place stands out among the rest: Bravante. I have very much appreciated and enjoyed the wines from Bravante since ABC Fine Wine & Spirits first got them about 7-8 years ago, and they have been in my top five California wine producers since. I now know why. The visit to the property, which included the vineyards and the winery, confirmed the obvious: “Bravante is truly one of the few bastions of fine wine creation.”
“Bravante is truly one of the few bastions of fine wine creation.” The appellation is Howell Mountain and all the fruit comes from two sustainably farmed vineyards. The Stone Ridge Vineyard, upon which sits the winery and cave, is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, and lies roughly 1,680 feet above sea level on a volcanic bench cut by nature. The thick and rocky soil drains rather quickly, creating stressed vines and small clusters of berries. The outcome is deeply intense and complex wine. The Black Oak Vineyard is just up the mountain from the winery. It sits on a rocky hillside which creates intense minerality – especially in the Sauvignon Blanc grapes. This unique parcel of land is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and is one of the few Sauvignon Blanc vineyards on Howell Mountain. The Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on a loamy bench and produces a smoother, rounder Cabernet Sauvignon primarily used for blending purposes. The owners, George and Nancy Bravante, partnered with some close friends and set out
to create a state-of-the-art boutique winery. The first vintages were released in 2000. The construction of a winery and cave on the property was completed in 2009; the tunnel for the cave was dug in the hillside right underneath the vineyard, naturally providing, without the use of electrical power, consistent year-round temperatures and humidity levels, crucial for the proper élévage of the wines in the barrels. The latest and greatest in vinification equipment was carefully selected by George Bravante and Duane Dappen, winemaker at Bravante. At Bravante, everything comes together for the creation of great wines: the terroir of Howell Mountain, the quality of the fruit from sustainably farmed vineyards, the state-ofthe-art winery and hillside cave, precision winemaking, and the expertise and respect Duane Dappen has for the terroir and fruit. Currently available at select ABC Fine Wine & Spirits locations are: • 2012 Bravante Trio, $36 • 2010 Merlot, $43 • 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, $50 • 2010 Cabernet Franc, $55
Bravante wines are a musttaste for every wine aficionado; they are some of the highest quality and best value wines coming out of California today. wine journal | 15
8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824
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W I N E
TO
WATC H:
Torchbearer Zinfandel A RO M A :
DARK FRUITS AND EARTH VA RI ETA L:
Zinfandel F L AVO R:
Blackberry and blueberry with hints of sage and a touch of pepper
COLOR:
DARK PURPLE-RED FINIS H:
Smooth, with final hints of dark fruits and spice REGION:
Lodi, California PAIR
W ITH:
B O DY:
Big, full and rich
$15