Wine Journal March/April 2014

wine journal March/April 2014

A BC FINE W INE & SPIR ITS W INE M AGA ZINE

I NSI DE MEET THE MAN THEY’RE CALLING

The James Bond of the Wine World

2011

A N EXC ITING PREV IEW O F S O M E O F THE

BORDEAUX VINTAGES

Planning a Wedding?

W E H AV E THE GU ID E FO R YOU !

Château Carignan, Bordeaux

SWIRL, SIP, READ, REPEAT. The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2014 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Our experts have a lot to share with you on their latest wine adventures...

Hannah Grantz Editor hannahg@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com Lorena Streeter Contributing Editor lorenas@abcfws.com

OUR WINE EXPERTS: Ken Amendola kena@abcfws.com @abcwinekena Daniel Eddy dane@abcfws.com @abcwinedane Jim Greeley jamesg@abcfws.com @abcwinejimg

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A CLOSER LOOK AT CHÂTEAU CARIGNAN

Atanas shares his travel adventures from one of Bordeaux’s finest

THERE’S MORE THAN ONE WINE COUNTRY

New Zealand, South Africa and Australia are bringing us great vinos this year, and Bill has all the insight

LEARN MORE ABOUT CALIFORNIA WINES WITH A FRENCH INFLUENCE FROM JEAN-CHARLES BOISSET

Hannah had a chat with one of the country’s most dashing winemakers

MISSED OUR BORDEAUX GRANDE TASTING?

Shayne lets you know which Bordeaux from the 2011 vintage to look forward to

Shayne Hebert shayneh@abcfws.com @abcwineshayne Atanas Nechkov atanasn@abcfws.com @abcwineatanas Paul Quaglini paulq@abcfws.com @abcwinepaulq Bill Stobbs wstobbs@abcfws.com @abcwinebills

If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Lorena Streeter (lorenas@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountry.

We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.

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A FOOD AND WINE PAIRING THAT’S TO DIE FOR

If you’ve never had jamon Iberico, Jim fills you in on how to experience it the right way

PARTY PLANNING DOESN’T HAVE TO BE STRESSFUL

Wine guy Daniel is here to make sure your bar is stocked to perfection

WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO LEARN ABOUT WINE…TRAVEL!

Paul’s recounting his top wine travel memories

SPRING IS HERE, AND THAT MEANS NEW WINES ARE HITTING THE SHELVES Cabernets, Chardonnays—Ken’s your guide for what new wines to be looking for

WINE TO WATCH

Spring brings rosés, and we’d like to introduce you to Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila Haut

IN-STORE W INE TA STINGS! We’d love to see you at one of our in-store wine tastings! To keep up with the latest schedule, visit our website at www.abcfws.com/events.

All tastings are $10, include 50+ wines to sample from, a tasting glass to keep and a coupon for you to use on the night of the event.

Jacksonville Wine Tasting Wednesday, Mar. 5th ­­— 6-8 p.m.

9436 San Jose Blvd. 32257

Ft. Myers Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 13 — 6-8 p.m.

14725 S. Tamiami Trail 33912

Charlotte Harbor Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 20 — 6-8 p.m.

4250 Tamiami Trail 33952

Doral Wine Tasting Wednesday, Mar. 5 ­­— 6-8 p.m.

9721 NW 41st Street 33178

Satellite Beach Wine Tasting Wednesday, Mar. 19 — 6-8 p.m.

1426 S. Highway A1A 32937

Venice Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 6 — 6-8 p.m.

1741 S. Tamiami Trail 34293

Boynton Beach Wine Tasting Wednesday, Mar. 19 — 6-8 p.m.

1531 Boynton Beach Blvd. 33436

Jacksonville Neighborhood Wine Tasting Thursday Mar. 20 — 6-8 p.m.

5440 Beach Blvd. 32207 *$5 admission

Orlando Wine Tasting Wednesday, Mar. 12 — 6-8 p.m.

14806 E. Colonial Drive 32826

Vero Beach Wine Tasting Wednesday, Mar. 19 — 6-8 p.m.

5905 20th Street 32966

Spring Hill Neighborhood Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 27 — 6-8 p.m.

4120 Commercial Way 34606 *$5 admission

West Palm Beach Wine Tasting Wednesday, Mar. 12 — 6-8 p.m.

3323 S. Dixie Hwy 33405

Gainesville Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 20 — 6-8 p.m.

5820 NW 34th Blvd. 32653

Naples Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 27 — 6-8 p.m.

2755 East Tamiami Trail 34112

Tallahassee Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 13 — 6-8 p.m.

1930 Thomasville Road 32303

Wesley Chapel Wine Tasting Thursday, Mar. 20 — 6-8 p.m.

1845 Bruce B Downs Blvd. 33544

Barrel room at Château Carignan

Bordeaux’s Best Seller,

RIGHT HERE IN FLORIDA

A T A N A S N E C H K O V, C E N T R A L F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

O

ne of the most memorable visits of a wine domain last year was the one to Château Carignan in Bordeaux, in the days following VinExpo 2013. Our ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine team was greeted and showed around the domain by its English owner, Andy Lench. Unlike many other Bordeaux wine domains where “Château” is only part of the name, there is a real château at Carignan.

Carignan was first built in the eleventh century on the site of a Roman villa.

It was given by King Charles VII of France to Jean Poton de Xaintrailles, who was a companion-in-arms of Joan of Arc and fought the English invasion in the Hundred Years’ War. In 1452 Poton de Xaintrailles rebuilt the castle, and a year later he was victorious over the English troops led by Constable Talbot in the Battle of Castillon, the battle that ended the Hundred Years’ War and reattached Bordeaux (Aquitaine) to the kingdom of France. After the war, Jean Poton de Xaintrailles became Governor of Aquitaine.

Over the following five centuries, Carignan changed ownership and name numerous times.

Andy Lench purchased Château Carignan in 2007. He didn’t have to update the winery since it had already been made into a state-of-the-art, most up-to-date, modern vinification facility by its previous owners.

In fact, the winery at Château Carignan can vinify three times the size of its current planted vineyards and has nothing to envy in technological innovations to even the First Growth estates.

Château Carignan is one of Bordeaux’s largest estates; the domain covers an area of 150 hectares total, of which 70 hectares

are vineyards planted on stony hillsides of predominantly clay-limestone soil with southwestern exposure.

The vineyard is composed of 30% 40-yearold vines and 70% between 8-25 years of age.

The varieties are divided into 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Planting density is 5,200 plants per hectare for 30% of the vineyard, and 5,000 plants per hectare for the remaining 70%.

The harvest is manual for all the old vines; the young vines are machine harvested.

After careful manual sorting, the grapes are vinified in thermo-regulated stainless steel tanks. The malolactic fermentation and aging are done in oak barrels—100% new oak for the domain’s top cuvée Château Carignan Prima, and one or two years (maximum) old barrels for Château Carignan. The third wine, l’Orangerie de Carignan is tank fermented and aged.

The entire production is vinified and bottled at the domain; no grapes are ever sold to other producers. Château Carignan is embracing the sustainable approach in farming. Most importantly, no herbicides are ever used in the vineyards of Château Carignan and occasionally organic fertilizer, from the Château’s own herd of Limousin cows, is used.

Prime quality terroir and impeccable vinification are obviously not a rarity in Bordeaux, the worlds’ largest fine wine region. What makes the wines of Château Carignan unique is the next step: distribution. In fact, the wines of Château Carignan are directly distributed through an importer (not available through the négoc network after 2009) to select wine retailers in the United States. Château Carignan’s hands-on approach to the distribution process adds even more value to the high

quality, moderately priced wines from Château Carignan.

Both 2009 and 2010 Château Carignan Prima ($30) have received 93 points from James Suckling. The 2008 Prima ($24.99) has received gold medal at the prestigious Concours de Bordeaux in 2011. Even better than a rating, the third wine, l’Orangerie de Carignan Red ($13), a blend of 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, is the best-selling by-the-glass wine (out of thousands!) at the restaurants and brasseries in the city of Bordeaux!

Our ABC wine team is proud to present the wines from Château Carignan to our guests. Don’t miss on some of the greatest values in red wine! Santé!

L’Orangerie de Carignan 2010 A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc; the wine exhibits saturated ruby red color and aromas and f lavors of red currant, blueberries and black cherry. L’Orangerie de Carignan is the best-selling red wine by the glass in the brasseries in Bordeaux! And for a reason—this easy-to-drink red is smooth, fruity and balanced and can be enjoyed as aperitif or paired with grilled meats, pasta dishes, mixed salads and aged cheeses.

Château Carignan Prima 2008 Prima is the top cuvée from Château Carignan; it is 100% Merlot from 45-yearold vines and is aged in oak barrels for 18 months. Complex and mellow mouthfeel with aromas and f lavors of blueberries and currant; this wine seduces with its pure fruit, silky texture and perfect balance.

Wine List BORDEAUX • • • • • • •

REDS

Château Ampelia (pg. 9) 2008 Château Carignan Prima (pg. 3) 2009 Château Carignan Prima (pg. 3) 2010 Château Carignan Prima (pg. 3) Château Clinet (pg. 9) Château Grand Corbin Despagne (pg. 9) l’Orangerie de Carignan (pg. 3)

CA BERNET SAU V IGNON • • • • •

Block 533 Reserve (pg. 15) Block 907 Reserve (pg. 15) Christophe Cabernet Sauvignon (pg. 7) Fog Bank Cabernet Sauvignon (pg. 13) Frenchie Napoleon Cabernet Sauvignon (pg. 7)

CH A RDONNAY

• B Chardonnay (pg. 15) • Christophe Chardonnay (pg. 7) • Christophe Limited Edition Napa Chardonnay (pg. 7) • Christophe Limited Edition Sonoma Chardonnay (pg. 7) • Fog Bank Chardonnay (pg. 13) • Frenchie Marie Antoinette Chardonnay (pg. 7) • Shannon Ridge Chardonnay (pg. 15)

CHENIN BL A NC

• Painted Wolf ‘The Den’ Chenin Blanc (pg. 5)

GA RNACH A

PINOT GRIS

PINOTAGE

SPA RKLING

• Cistum (pg. 11) • Painted Wolf The Den Pinotage (pg. 5)

PINOT NOIR

• Christophe Limited Edition Pinot Noir (pg. 7) • Christophe Pinot Noir (pg. 7)

RED BLEND • • • •

Angosto Tinto (pg. 11) Cune Rioja Reserva (pg. 11) Frenchie Red Blend (pg. 7) Tormentoso Syrah/Mourvedre(pg. 5)

TEMPR A NILLO

• Viña Real Crianza (pg. 11)

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W HITES

• Jules Taylor Pinot Gris (pg. 5) • Hi! Prosecco (pg. 13) • Veuve Ambal Brut (pg. 13)

ROSÉ

• Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila Haut Rose (pg. 16)

WHEN BUYING YOUR NEXT BOTTLE OF WINE

Don’t Forget the Other Half of the World!

BI L L STOBB S , W E ST F LOR I DA W I N E SU PE RV I S OR

O

ne of the more interesting questions when talking about the wine business to me is, how does a wine producing country that is not traditionally thought of as a major wine producer manage to work its way into the public consciousness?

Think about it. Living in the U.S. we quite naturally consume a huge amount of our own wine, principally from California, Washington, Oregon and New York. We accept that the wines of France and Italy can be called classic and are worthy of our attention. We acknowledge the long history of winemaking in Spain and Germany. But why should we buy a wine from, say, New Zealand, South Africa or Australia?

New Zealand got its foot in the international wine market’s door with its own slant on a well-known grape variety— Sauvignon Blanc. They offered a style of this classic grape that grabbed your attention with its sizzling vibrancy and crisp but lush f lavors. Australia entered the world market in the 1990s with great value-for-money wines that offered big f lavor, as well as a grape variety that was revamped Aussie-style—Shiraz. South Africa is still finding its foothold on the international market despite a revitalized industry and a great many quality wines.

True, they have Pinotage—their own native cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault—but the style and quality of this grape variety can vary greatly. It has its lovers, but otherwise it tends to be somewhat ignored. The good news is that South Africa is producing some excellent Chenin Blanc, a delicious wine that all Chardonnay/Pinot Grigio-centric wine buyers should explore. Keep in mind, though, that this delightful wine is dry and quite unlike the California version you may be familiar with.

Cape Town, South Africa

All three of these countries have made significant entry into international wine consciousness, and their efforts are definitely paying off. The percentage increase of New Zealand’s wine shipments to the U.S. have been in the double digits for the last five years, and the 2013 vintage promises to be one of the best in its history. South African wine sales are up 26% internationally, and they also promise an exceptional 2013 vintage. And the Australian wine market is very busy revitalizing itself by getting the message across that besides inexpensive brands, they also produce a great many quality wines that can stand proudly beside the best of California and the Old World.

The next question is, having made inroads to the international wine market, how do these countries maintain and improve their standing? New Zealand is offering some very interesting Pinot Noir, and I think that in the future we’ll all be a lot more aware of their Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon—particularly from Hawkes Bay. To quote British wine journalist Jamie Goode, “Bold statement: within 10 years New Zealand could be known for making the world’s consistently best Pinot Noir and Syrah.” South Africa’s standing will grow not only with Chenin Blanc, but also with Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as some of the Rhône and Southern French varietals. Australia will continue to wow us with great Shiraz that is full-bodied but also impeccably balanced and complex. They will also offer us some superb Cabernet, Grenache, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Riesling, Semillon and any number of great Italian varietals.

What is truly heartwarming to see are the winemakers and owners from all three of these countries showing such enthusiasm and pride and vitality in their art and craft, and in the recognition that their supreme quality is now being accepted worldwide.

And so my lesson for today is this: When buying your next bottle of wine, don’t forget the other half of the world. Try the wines that made them famous, by all means. But perhaps even more importantly, be among the first to try the wines for which they inevitably will be famous for in the years to come.

Here are a few suggestions – Jules Taylor Pinot Gris: Take a chance on something other than Sauvy Blanc.

With creamy and delicious aromatics of nutmeg, butterscotch and ripe nashi pear, this is a winner!

Painted Wolf ‘The Den’ Chenin Blanc: This is what South Africa is becoming famous for – vibrant, zesty and packed with f lavor.

Painted Wolf ‘The Den’ Pinotage: A good example of South Africa’s native cross, this Pinotage shows red and black summer berries, savory spice and toasty wood f lavors.

Tormentoso Syrah/Mourvedre: South Africa is gaining attention with their Rhône and Southern French varietals.

Rich plummy fruit f lavors coupled with peppery spices and subtle oak.

A lot more fine Australian wines will be also be coming to ABC soon. Stay tuned!

We Make Serious Wines...

Photo of Jean-Charles Boisset taken by Brad Mollath

WHATEVER THAT MEANS HANNAH GRANTZ

H

e’s not your average farmer in the vineyard. In fact, I don’t think you’d ever find Jean-Charles Boisset walking about in grape-stained jeans... at least not in public.

He’s been called the James Bond of the wine world, perhaps because of the way he dresses, or maybe because, as he says, he prefers his wine “shaken and not blended…

I like the purse sense of wine.” Well, what does that really mean? Jean-Charles says the Boisset family is “a very historical company in many ways, thanks to the collection of great wineries we have, but we have, as well, a very fresh look at the wine world—with a lot of youth and fun to it, so this is why people say that we’re serious in the quality of our wine, but we also have a great time. This is refreshing in the wine world where a lot of the things have been done the same way.”

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An American now by way of Burgundy, Jean-Charles’ family-owned line of wines was founded in 1961 by his father. As of now, the Boisset family is the fifth-largest producer of wines in France, where Jean-Charles was born, but they may be even better known for their California labels. Christophe is the newest Boisset Family Estates wine that you will be seeing at your local ABC this quarter, produced at a winery the Boissets started in the 80s and rejuvenated from an idea on the exploration of the Americas and more specifically, California. Jean-Charles said, “I’m very excited… they’re wines coming from Sonoma and Napa and the idea is to capitalize on the thinking of going beyond one winery and exploring different areas of Wine Country.” ABC is eager to introduce Christophe Limited Edition Napa Chardonnay, as well as a Sonoma Chardonnay and the Christophe Limited Edition Pinot Noir. We are also introducing Christophe Cabernet, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But of course, Sonoma and Napa aren’t the only areas of California Wine Country that Jean-Charles’ has been exploring…

When I asked him where on this side of the pond he’s been growing which grapes, he told me that the Central Coast and Monterey are where his team grows “crisp, fresh and pure Chardonnays and Pinots…wines that would be great for Floridians to drink with their seafood.” And then in Carneros, north of San Francisco, they “love to grow phenomenal, richer, powerful Chardonnay with great intensity and the wonderful personality of the North Coast.” In Sonoma, Merlot, Pinot and Zinfandel are all plentiful. Jean-Charles added, the “Zinfandel is great, specifically at the first California winery—the most historical—Buena Vista. Then north of US 101, closer to the coast, is another winery called DeLoach Vineyards, which is very exciting if you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in a Burgundian style, and what we mean by that is very earthy, terroir oriented, open-top fermented and greatly intense. DeLoach really represents where I originally come from…

Burgundy.”

The tradition of combining the style of Burgundy and new “Californianized” techniques and flavors is becoming JeanCharles’ signature on the winemaking world.

Though his roots may be in Burgundy, his life now is with his family, including his wife Gina Gallo (yes, of that winemaking Gallo family) and their French Bulldog, Frenchie, among a farm-length long list of other animals.

Frenchie was the muse behind one of our most popular California wines, with, of course, a French influence, and though the bottle says Napa Valley—you can’t miss what first catches your eye on the label, the dog dressed as Marie Antoinette or Napoleon. “We make serious

Frenchie Winery.

Photo by Mike Anderson

wines… whatever that means,” Jean-Charles said of Frenchie Wines, “But we wanted to make sure animal lovers would have a wine with the image of the dog that would be fun and unique.” And that they certainly did. Staring at a bulldog dressed as Marie Antoinette while sipping your Chardonnay… who wouldn’t love that? But it used to be that you had to travel to Napa Valley to try Boisset’s Frenchie wines: “What I love is that Charles Bailes (ABC’s CEO) came to the winery, saw it, and said ‘Would you consider selling us the wine?’ Charles was the first one in the United States to start with Frenchie in any retail operation, and that was at ABC.” And we’re now carrying Frenchie Red Blend, Marie Antoinette Chardonnay and Napoleon Cabernet Sauvignon so you can enjoy the French spin on Napa Valley without traveling too far!

And as for traveling, Jean-Charles seems to be as well-traveled as they come, but he’s strong in his belief that there are “no better places to enjoy—from lifestyle, allure and vision— there’s nothing better than America and France.” The combination of the two seems to be working well for the Boisset family in the winemaking world, at least. Jean-Charles added, “The two countries together create the perfect blends. America has had a great influence on France—naturally vice versa, as well—and when you blend the two together it creates a spectacular energy, a dynamic that no other nation can literally come close to.”

A delicious blend, indeed, but how does a man who was used to the style and dynamic of one region, where there is such a sense of place and history when it comes to winemaking— and Burgundy, perhaps, makes wine reflect that sense of place better than most anywhere in the world—compared to California, where importance is reflected less on the place and

maybe more so elsewhere? Jean-Charles recognizes that “California is a fairly younger region, specifically making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We own the first and most historical winery in CA, Buena Vista, which really started to be on the map in 1815-16, not long ago. So CA is really defining its place, defining its terroir and defining its appellation system, and it’s doing a phenomenal job at it.

And more will come.” The development of a “new,” or newer, wine region like California is a beautiful thing, and Jean-Charles feels it’s going to come quicker than we might realize:

A greater sense of place will come over time— but we’ve only just started. In Burgundy we’ve been doing it for thousands of years. I believe, comparatively speaking, California will go much faster than Burgundy because this is the 21st century. Thanks to knowledge, communication and science, we know much more than we did ten years ago. The acceleration process of knowledge has never been faster. There’s no meal I ever do without both (California and French wine) on the table, and it’s not one against the other, it’s one with the one another. The comparison of both and the blending of both is fantastic. Our wineries are representing a sense of both, and I think that’s why they’re doing well. We feel that the entire energ y or all of us, as a company and as a family, is representing both on the forefront.

Marie Antoinette Chardonnay

WINE TASTING…

I

have been to my share of tastings, events and trade shows, enough to know they come in all shapes and sizes. Some are a f lurry of wines, in packed rooms with barely a chance to ask questions and take away any useful information. Others are more elegant affairs where one on one is the norm, and the opportunity to really taste and learn is at your fingertips!

With A Touch of Class

S H AY N E H E B E R T, C E N T R A L F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

Such is the case with our annual Bordeaux Grande Tasting, held on Wednesday, January 15th, at the Rosen Shingle Creek. We hosted this event last year, and attendees had the opportunity to taste nearly 50 wines from some of the top estates in Bordeaux. Tables were staffed with wine professionals and estate owners happy to share their insight and a few secrets.

This year, we were fortunate to repeat the success of last year, again with 30 tables pouring 50 wines, all Bordeaux, to a crowd of nearly 150 wine smart, savvy guests who were looking for conversation and information. Add to this top quality gourmet delights and you have the recipe for one of the best wine events in the state!

The vintage 2011 has plenty of high quality wines to boast about, although not a great deal of astounding wine was produced.

St. Emilion, Bordeaux

BRIGIT TE LURTON

Château Brane Cantenac, Margaux

Baron de Brane, Margaux

“It’s interesting to talk with the consumer. We are at the estate so often, it’s very important to see what happens to the bottle.”

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RONAN LAB ORDE

Château Clinet, Pomerol

“As the vintage is currently, you can enjoy the tannins, see the oak, dark chocolate, balsamic, coffee, jammy mature fruit—I’m quite proud of this vintage. It’s very nice.”

JOSE SANFINS

V É R O N I Q U E DAU S S

Château Cantenac Brown, Margaux

Château Phélan Ségur, St. Estèphe

“2011 is fresher with more acidity.

It’s elegant; not too bold.”

“Phélan Ségur is family-owned, so we are free to make the changes we want to make—we like an elegance in everything…and the 2011 gives a very soft, velvety flavor.”

JEAN BERNARD GRENIE

Château Daugay, St. Émilion

“This event is a wonderful moment to meet Florida consumers. We recognize people and they recognize us. It brings us closer and the consumers will be accustomed to our wine.”

2011 had the difficult position of following 2009 and 2010, two spectacular vintages in Bordeaux with some spectacular prices to boot. So 2011 was overlooked while buyers soaked up the ’09 and ’10 vintages. This has happened in the past, and smart buying (and an event where you can taste 50 wines) could help consumers fill out their wine vaults with delicious wines from top estates, with the satisfaction of knowing they can begin opening these wines in three-five years and enjoy them!

In Robert Parker’s summary of the vintage, he was quick to point to Pomerol as the top appellation. So I made a bee line to the wines being served. Ch. Clinet. One of my favorites, it was on form showing deep color and a load of fruit. Ch. La Croix St George from the Jean-Philippe Janoueix stable also had everything in place.

Next, I set out to see if nearby St. Émilion had as much success as Pomerol, the two being neighbors and all. They did. CyrilleThienpont was showing three wines from St. Émilion: Ch. Berliquet, Ch. Larcis-Ducasse and Ch. Pavie Macquin. Consistently, Ch. PavieMacquin is on my radar for value/quality in St. Émilion, especially in difficult vintages (I own a case of magnums of the 2007, my daughter’s birth year) and all three of these wines were beautifully made. Then a quick visit with Stefan von Neipperg, whose elegance and class are ref lected in his wines. His Ch. Canon la Gaffeliere (last year’s favorite for many who attended) was fabulous! It was at this table that I tasted his

PHILIP O’ CONOR

Château Haut-Bâges Libéral, Pauillac Château FerrIère, Margaux

“It shows the dispersity of the vintages really well when you taste them side by side (the 2010 and 2011 vintages)… 2011 was a hot, dry year with an early harvest.”

Pictured with ABC’s Shayne Hebert

Clos Marsalette. This was one of the most open and expressive wines of the evening, which is interesting because it hails from Pessac-Leognan, an appellation which did not impress Robert Parker in the 2011 vintage.

As for the Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, Ch. Branaire Ducru and Ch. Brane Cantenac were delicious, as was Ch. St. Pierre and Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte…and on, and on, and on…

The dry white wines are also a point of interest. Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc was racy, bright and much more approachable than the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, which was again (like in 2010) seamless, powerful and a bit closed. Odd that the dry whites of Bordeaux don’t sell as well as we wished.

These are intense wines with power and place, and unlike most Sauvignon Blanc, there is no hurry to open them!

Finally, I must mention Sauternes. 2011 has turned out to be a top notch vintage for this intense, botrytis beauty. Ch. de Suduiraut (Parker 93-95) and their Lions de Suduiraut (a lighter and more food-friendly version of the Ch. de Suduiraut) were both beautiful.

Look for the Lions de Suduiraut coming soon!

Ch. Coutet, from Barsac (Parker 94-96) was also amazing in its weight, feel and intensity of noble rot. Wow!

express their charms. But these wines were delicious! Not light or angular, but colorful and packed with f lavor, weight and more near-term pleasure. And certainly nothing like you may have been led to believe by reading any vintage summary. Each wine deserves to be tasted, not brushed into the closet because someone said it was a weak vintage. Not every vintage can be a 2009, and remember…you won’t be drinking those 2009s for quite a while!

One of the hidden benefits of attending this event is having the chance to purchase the wines being sampled. We had purchased our 2011 Bordeaux in the spring of 2012, nearly two years ago, and many of the wines being offered this evening were not on our original purchase. We do make these new wines available, but only on the night of the event. So if there happened to be something special you tasted and ordered, you might just be the only one holding this wine once it is delivered. And remember, these 2011s are still back in Bordeaux, waiting to be shipped.

The wines being offered the Bordeaux Grande Event should begin to arrive in fall 2014.

So it would be difficult to choose the best wines from this misunderstood vintage… mainly because many of the offerings were still a bit youthful and need a few years to

A L I N E BA LY

Château Coutet, Barsac

“Our 2010 was more robust, but the 2011 has more finesse. It’s beautiful, with exotic fruits, beautiful nose and beautiful texture. We’re excited to be here and see how people react to our wine, and to Bordeaux.” *fun fact: A bottle of 1919 Château Coutet was featured in a January episode of the TV series Downton Abbey!

KINOU CAZES HACHEMIAN

AU G U S T I N DESCHAMPS

Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

Château La Tour Carnet, Bordeau

“We wanted something to drink with oysters at our beach house…

The Blanc de Lynch Bages is a typical white Bordeaux, with pineapple and citrus notes, and we only make a few thousand cases.”

Château Pape Clément, Haut-Medo

Pictured with ABC Wine Consultant Carl Johnston

Château Frombrauge, St. Émilion

“2011 is a really fresh vintage; it needs less time than ’09 and ’10 to be drank. It’s very valuable, good quality—a good opportunity for consumers because it has the freshness of 2010, but its more drinkable.”

F R A N Ç O I S D E S PA G N E

Château Grand CorbinDespagne, St. Émilion

Château Ampelia, Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux

“Our family has been in St. Émilion since the beginning of the 15th century. The 2011 Château Grand Corbin-Despagne is the Despagne’s 200th family vintage!”

Pictured with ABC’s Shayne Hebert

Rioja Alta

Heaven A M ATCH M A DE IN

J I M G R E E L E Y, S O U T H W E S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E R V I S O R

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hroughout my visits to Spain there’s a constant. Yes, the terrific regional wines are always the starring attraction during each outing as a whole. I look forward every time to taste the newest releases from the top regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Much of the new buzz in Iberia centers around the exciting vinos produced in less storied appellations including Navarra and Valencia.

But besides great wine, along the way you’ll surely encounter another mainstay of Spanish culture: the king of dry cured hams, Jamón Ibérico.

Seemingly at every meal, be it breakfast, lunch, dinner, as a midday snack or palate chaser, you won’t have to venture too far to find a platter of thinly, expertly sliced jamón somewhere in the immediate vicinity. It’s prevalent at every winery, restaurant, bar or rest stop you’ll visit. If we Americans take pride in our love affair for beef (believe it or not, the Argentines eat more), then you get an idea of how much the Spanish enjoy their jamón. Want more proof? Well, during a previous stay in Madrid, I counted four jamón establishments, including two Museo del Jamón locations within a ¼ mile radius of my hotel!

Jamón Ibérico de Bellota comes from the free-range black-footed, or pata negra, pig that subsists on a diet of wild acorns. It differs from other quality hams like Italian Prosciutto di Parma or French Jambon de

Bayonne by the breed and how long the meat is cured, usually a minimum of 36 months.

The f lavors of Ibérico are creamy, nutty, rich, moist and sublime. And due to consuming all those acorns (and the long aging), it’s actually kind of healthy for you: Ibérico de Bellota is high in oleic acid (just like olive oil), which apparently is good for lowering bad cholesterol.

Personally, I prefer jamón with a glass of tinto (red wine). I recently enjoyed some paired with Angosto Tinto ($15), a Valencia blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Garnacha Tintorera (alias Alicante Bouschet). Bodegas El Angosto sources fruit for this firmly textured, yet generous vino from hillside vineyards laden with calcareous limestone deposits. The 2009 vintage received a 91 point rating from Wine Advocate.

From the region of Navarra comes Cistum ($17), an old-vine Garnacha (Grenache) from a truly old vineyard planted in 1899. Cistum (rated 92 points in Wine Advocate) is the handiwork of winemaker Rafael Reverte whose family owns Bodegas Reverte in nearby Rioja. Remarkably, the vines used for this wine are ungrafted, a rarity in postphylloxera Spain.

Speaking of Rioja, Spain’s most famous wine region is riding high these days with an unprecedented accolade. Wine Spectator recently named a Rioja Gran Reserva from CVNE the number one wine for 2013 in its annual Top 100 list.

Known affectionately as Cune among us wine geeks, CVNE (Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España) is one of Rioja’s legendary producers, established by the Asúa family in 1879. Today it’s comprised of three wineries: Cune located in the village of Haro, Viña Real in Rioja Alavesa and Contino in Laserna.

Tempranillo fans shouldn’t miss two available releases from CVNE well worth trying.

You can’t go wrong with a plate of jamón and a glass of Viña Real Crianza ($14), a tremendous value (91 points Wine Advocate).

This wine expresses intense raspberry fruit and lively f loral notes, a hallmark of Tempranillo from the cool Rioja Alavesa.

Matured 18 months in French and American oak, Cune Rioja Reserva (89 points, Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar) is produced from 85% Tempranillo with remaining 15% a mix of traditional Rioja grape varieties Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo (Carignan). This wine is beautifully balanced, with a bright ruby rim and deep black cherry fruit. It displays the classic richness of the Rioja Alta district.

One final jamón anecdote: should you travel from Madrid via Barajas Aeropuerto, you can purchase a whole designer suitcase of jamón (black hoof and all) at the Duty Free shop.

You’re then free to take your jamón “luggage” virtually anywhere in the world, except the USA!

Jamón Iberico

Wedding Wine 101 D A N I E L E D D Y, G A I N E S V I L L E W I N E C O N S U L T A N T

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wedding should be one of the most joyous occasions for any couple, filled with wedding bells, f loral explosions and heartfelt I do’s. Yet so often it gets bogged down in pleasing everyone else, turning blushing brides into Bridezillas— forcing new grooms to watch Say Yes to the Dress. A wedding is a story, a chance for a couple to share their interests with their family and friends. At ABC, we can help find that story in the choices of wine, beer and/or cocktails. If you plan well ahead, it will make the event easier for you and more fun for you and your guests. If you may want specialty wines (that could require special ordering) or larger quantities (that may not be on hand in the store you visit) then at least a month’s

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notice gives us the time to find exactly what you want.

To begin, what do you want to serve? Will this be a “full bar” or just beer and wine?

Will you serve Champagne or just have it for the toast? Do we want to try pairing wines with the reception menu, or do we want to simplify our choices? Some people like to make their reception a mini wine tasting, while others do not. At ABC we have a lot of experience helping guests, but we don’t have a crystal ball. So it’s important that we get a sense of your guests’ likes before committing to certain quantities. If it’s a younger crowd, then we might skew the selection to include a good amount of craft beer. If you know your

guests are big into cocktails, then let’s make sure we’re not skimping on the bar menu.

We have a tendency to think there is one right answer for weddings (thanks, Martha Stewart), but it’s your event and you can create the night you want to have.

On the ABC Fine Wines & Spirits website (abcfws.com) under the tab of “Entertaining” we have a few helpful pages, starting with Party Planning: Wine. Here we give a rundown of quantities for daytime versus nighttime events, general amounts to serve and even glassware choices. Between the Party Planning: Beer and Party Planning: Spirits, we’ve got you covered—including some new cocktail recipes. That’s my first

therefore giving me a cushion on quantities with no fear of running out. Caterers tend to triple the amount you’ll actually need because of their fear of running out. If it’s 100 people for three hours, then let’s look at 300 drinks for this event. If there is a full bar, then I might split that 300 into three, looking for 100 servings of beer, 100 servings of wine and 100 servings of cocktails. You get 24 bottles of beer to a case, so four cases gets us to 96 servings (almost 100). You get 60 glasses (five oz.) of wine to a case; therefore two cases would be 120 servings. For liquor drinks, one shot is basically 50mL, so you’ll get 15 shots out of a 750mL and 35 shots out of a 1.75L, so we’d need five liters total for this event.

Selecting the type of wine can be the hardest, since many couples like to choose wines they know or have special meaning for them, that tell their story. I’ve helped couples that wanted wines from the locale of their upcoming honeymoon, or wines that their parents’ had at their wedding, to themed wedding labels and wines with a certain color label to match wedding decor. Given a little notice, we can make all of this happen.

An important decision up front is whether there will be a Champagne toast or not. It is not required, but it is often customary. I tell my guests that you get 72 servings of bubbly to a case rather than 60, because of the shape of the glasses and the frothy bubbles.

piece of advice: Consider a signature cocktail, or two or three, to focus your guests’ mixed drink desires. Then you won’t need a full bar, but will still have creative options if you choose three drinks with the big three: vodka, rum and bourbon.

For example, by choosing Cosmopolitans, Mojitos and Manhattans as signature drinks, you can easily fill out the potential menu with vodka tonics, rum and Cokes and 7 and 7’s.

A great ratio to consider is one drink per person per hour, and it works better the larger the number of people. This could include soft drinks, but I tend to leave out the soft drinks and focus on the booze,

French Champagne will start at about $30 per bottle and go up, therefore for a wedding toast I tend to recommend something a little more affordable, and Italian Prosecco can be the perfect option since it’s dry, but not as dry as brut Champagne. Two of my closest friends were planning a honeymoon in the Veneto, so a sparkling wine from there fit the bill perfectly, and Prosecco was their choice. The Hi! Prosecco ($11) is extra dry, which is less dry than brut but not sweet like an Asti Spumante. White f lowers and pear blossom on the nose, opens up to bright acidity on the palate with a refreshing finish. If a yeastier, French-style sparkler is required, perhaps due to a honeymoon on the Riviera, but the price of Champagne is a deterrent, then a Cremant de Bourgogne like the Veuve Ambal Brut ($17) is an excellent alternative. Here we have Champagne quality but not at Champagne prices. Think scents of brioche and granny smith apples, with a creamy mouthfeel that is very elegant. There are plenty of great bubbly options at all price points if you want to make a Champagne toast a part of your story.

As far as wine selections, if there is no preference or theme, then I tell our guests that Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon

are still the two most popular wines. If we want a choice of both a heavy red and a light red, then consider a red blend or Pinot Noir, and with white I might select a lighter Pinot Grigio to balance off the Chardonnay. If you know you have sweet wine lovers then look to Moscatos, White Zinfandels and sweet reds. ABC carries the Fog Bank Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon for just $11 per bottle and these are outstanding wines that have great f lavor at an affordable price, with a romantic label reminiscent of a seaside getaway.

Long before the event, come by one of our stores with a wine consultant. Most of our larger stores have a wine tap system to let you sample from four to twelve wines. Look at the calendar for upcoming ABC wine tastings to help you find the wines you like best, that best tell the story of your wedding.

We may not have that crystal ball but we do have a party planning program that gives us potential quantities when we’ve outlined some basic criteria to give you a quote to set your budget, even including mixers. Let our years of expertise help you to make this day your perfect wedding day and create the happy ending you deserve.

Cortona

Ah Hah, TIME TO TRAVEL AGAIN PAU L Q UA G L I N I , S O U T H E A S T F L O R I D A W I N E S U P E RV I S O R

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s with any profession, it’s vital to keep up with what’s happening in your industry.

My colleagues and I spend hours each week tasting wines, reading publications, studying trends and trying our best to stay ahead of the never ending changes to wine laws around the world.

While all the aforementioned tasks are an important part of staying on top of our game, nothing gives us more knowledge, understanding and what I call “ah-hah moments” than stepping outside our comfort zone and traveling to wine country.

Having been with ABC for nearly 20 years now, I have had the opportunity to explore vineyards around the world, to meet more winemakers than I can count and to taste wines with their friends and families. As springtime approaches and our travel season starts up again, inevitably I will hear from someone, “Haven’t you already been to Italy (France, Germany, Spain…fill in the blank) before?” Unless you have traveled to a wine destination, it is difficult to explain how much more understanding you gain when you taste wine in the greater context of the food, the land and the culture of a particular country.

I’m sure I could fill pages of this journal with personal accounts of inspiration and insight but in the spirit of keeping my editor happy, I’ll share just a few.

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Not long after I moved to Florida I noticed people drank a lot more dry rosé here than in New England. Maybe it had something to do with the Florida sunshine but I, personally, was pretty apathetic when it came to dry rosé wine. That is until I had the opportunity to travel to Provence, France. Rosé represents more than half of all Provencal production. Sitting down in a little seaside café eating a steaming bowl of Bouillabaisse is when my epiphany came. There is no better wine in the world to drink while in this sun-drenched corner of southern France. It pairs perfectly with garlicky seafood and sunshine. I went from almost never buying a bottle of rosé wine to almost always having a bottle chilling in my fridge.

Classic German Riesling is incomparable. No other wine can offer in a single sip as much finesse, purity of fruit, intensity of flavor and thrilling acidity as a fine Riesling.

Those words of renowned wine writer Tom Stevenson were lost upon me until I finally had the opportunity to visit German wine country.

Climbing high above the Mosel River on some of the steepest vineyards in the world provided me with another moment of sudden realization.

We were with Johannes Selbach, a man whose family has been growing grapes on these formidable hillsides since the 1600s. Looking down at the sun reflecting off the river like a mirror onto the glistening blue slate beneath our feet was when

Tom Stevenson’s words rang true. The only thing I still don’t understand is how such labor intensive, hand-crafted wine can sell for so little money.

Italy is the country I have visited most often and the place I have said eureka! more times than I can remember. Italy is also the country I feel most humbled by when it comes to understanding its diversity. Generalizations about a peninsula 750 miles long planted with over 2000 indigenous grape varieties are impossible. Throw in 4,000 years of winemaking history and twenty different regions all with their own local cuisine and customs and you can understand why one trip to Italy is barely enough to scratch the surface.

If I could choose just one destination in Italy I can think of no better place to start than a trip to Tuscany. Three of the best days of my life were spent driving around the Tuscan countryside with my colleagues Marie Griffin and Bill Stobbs. It is the dream of every wine lover to be seduced by the rolling vineyards, forest and olive groves of Tuscany. Mission accomplished.

The sights, sounds, smells and spirit of a travel destination can endear a wine lover forever. There is no better way to cement that connection than to actually be there. My advice to anyone who is truly passionate about wine is to travel again, and again… and again.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Shannon Ridge Vineyards in Lake County, CA

THAT

Spring FEELING K E N A M E N D OL A , NORT H F LOR I DA W I N E SU PE RV I S OR

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or the people that live north of the Mason-Dixon Line, this will be the most anticipated spring in recent memory.

Record cold, ridiculous snowfalls, power outages and forever shoveling was the norm for many this past winter, and though we here in Florida had a few nights of covering our f lowers, we didn’t have too much to complain about. With that said, it is very welcoming to hear the birds a chirpin’ and see the temperatures back in the 70s every day.

In the wonderful world of wine, the spring is when everything leads up to the start of another growing season “vintage,” looking toward the waking up of the vines, “bud break” that leads to the f lowering of the vine, setting of the fruit, veraison (the grapes gaining their color), harvest, and vine management. This is all far more complex and technical than I just laid out and making great wine has as much to do with science as terroir.

But as it has been said many times by many people, you cannot make good wine from bad grapes, but you can make bad wine from good grapes. So the relationship between the farmer (vineyard manager) and the scientist (winemaker) has to be a very symbiotic one to achieve success in the production of this amazing drink.

For our wine drinking guests, this time of the year means they will soon be seeing new wines on our shelves—we will certainly begin to see more and more California wines from the 2012 vintage. This was a very, very happy

time for most in the California wine industry.

After two extremely difficult vintages prior to 2012, it was a welcomed time in wine! For nearly all the major wine regions in California it was almost too easy a year, especially after what 2010 and 2011 put everyone one through.

Mother Nature did most all the hard work in 2012, assuring most that their major problem was what to do with all of the huge yields that were harvested. Many claimed there wasn’t an empty fermenting tank to be found anywhere, and some even started to look at their bathtubs in whole different light! Everything in 2012 seemed to fall into place, as the f lowering was very even and the berries reached veraison at the same time for the most part. The grapes, especially Cabernet Sauvignon, had very thick skins, which lead to maximum concentration.

When harvest time arrived, it was all hands on deck—a much different vibe than in the 2010 and 2011 when the harvest was very late and could be described, at best, as uneven, sporadic and woefully—what’s a nice way to say it?—sparse.

A few of these excellent 2012 vintage wines that I have had a chance to drink and recommend to my guests are a couple of our fantastic Block Cabernet Sauvignons, the Block 533 Reserve ($22) from Chalk Hill in Sonoma and the Block 907 Reserve ($20) from Dry Creek also in Sonoma. The Block 533 Reserve is terrific example of the Chalk Hill AVA with its muscular frame of dark, ripe fruit, balanced structure of toasted oak, firm elegant tannin and age-worthy acidity.

An awful lot of wine for the money. The 2012 Block 907 is a perfect wine to either put down for a few years and watch how it evolves or pop, pour and enjoy tonight with your favorite cut of beef on the grill. This wine has intense f lavors of ripe black cherries, dark chocolate, coffee and a hint of toffee and spice from the oak finish. Yes, this one is built for the long haul, but at this price you buy a case or two and watch how it grows.

Two Lake County white wines from this stellar vintage are the Shannon Ridge Chardonnay ($14) and a fairly new and wildly popular wine to us called B Chardonnay ($17). The Shannon Chard is one of the most balanced, mouthwatering Chardonnays to come along for quite some time. A mouthful of tropical fruits, mango, and rich and creamy crème brûlée with a long, smooth and zesty finish that belies is menial price tag. The B Chardonnay vastly over delivers in its price category. The wine has very rich aromas of citrus, vanilla, spice and hint of toasted oak that draws you in to its luscious, creamy texture. Bright acids, purity of fruit and buttery, toasted f lavors on the equally long finish.

There are going to be many distinguished wines out there this year from the glorious 2012 vintage, and these are very good place to begin your journey through them all. I do love the spring—so much to look forward too!

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

W I NE

TO

WATC H :

Chapoutier Les Vignes de B I L A HAU T ROSE

B E S T

TO

D R I N K

W I T H :

Barbecue AND GAME F L AVO R :

B LE N D:

Syrah, GRENACHE,

CARIGNAN A R O M A :

Delicate melon notes of orange

FLORAL B O D Y :

MEDIUM with crisp tannins

BLACK CHERRY

and juicy strawberry, CRUSHED RED FRUITS C O L O R :

B RIGHT P I N K F I N I S H :

FIRM with a fresh citrus element R E G I O N :

Vin de Pays d’Oc,

FRANCE