wine journal Ju ly/Aug ust 2017
ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E
Wine pro OR
wine snob? Organic, sustainable & natural wine Cutting through all the fluff
INNOVATION MEETS TRADITION AT RUFFINO
Photo by Mary Small
The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2017 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved. Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you! Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8. Prices listed are for 750mL bottles unless otherwise noted. Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com
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We chatted with Beppe d’Andrea, Senior Brand Ambassador for Ruffino. The best of French Malbec. Canoe Ridge has a juicy story to tell. Naturally delicious wine. We followed Bill through a week of his sophisticated sips. Here’s what happened.
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When wine meets sand, sun and a lot of wine lovers. Know your wine stuff and flaunt it. The Champagne difference. A memorable trip to Italy. This Pinot Noir beats the summer heat every time.
OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list. Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountr y. We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.
abcfws.com wine journal | A
Congratulazioni,
PAUL!
In April, Paul Quaglini, our esteemed wine & spririts sales manager based in southeast Florida, traveled to Italy to do something a little more than just visit wineries and drink Sangiovese. This time he attended the Vinitaly International Academy (VIA), arguably the most well-known and respected certification course for Italian wines. Founded by Stevie Kim and Dr. Ian D’Agata, VIA is a four-day program that prepares a select group of wine professionals for a final exam to earn the status of Italian Wine Expert. This year, only 59 applicants were accepted, 10-12 of whom were there to retake the exam. After weeks of studying to prepare for this course, Paul sat in a classroom in Italy for four grueling days,
learning the science behind Italian grape varietals and the wines they produce. “The technical, scientific parts of the course were intimidating at first, but it’s important to understand why there are so many grape varietals,” Paul explained. And all his studying paid off, because Paul is now a VIA Certified Italian Wine Ambassador who finished in the top 5 of his class. Read about his trip on page 15! Congratulations, Paul! “I am very happy for Paul as the first-time pass rate of the VIA certification course is quite low. Only about 40% of those who try reach the Ambassador level, which is what Paul managed to accomplish. He’s both knowledgeable and passionate about Italian wines and I hope, not only that he sits the exam again in order to reach VIA’s highest qualification level, that of Expert status, but also to work with Paul in the future.” – Dr. Ian D’Agata, Scientific Director of Vinitaly International Academy
La Vita Ruffino ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM
M
any cultures around the world are really
Ruffino Prosecco $13
good at the art of living richly – but Italians seem
Crisp, clean and delicate with fine bubbles caressing the palate.
to have it mastered. Aside from their fashion and food and romance, Italians also impress the world with their wine. The most adored wine region in Italy, Tuscany, boasts about 50,000 wineries, and all of them share the same sun-drenched hills, the same cooling breeze from the Mediterranean,
Ruffino Chianti $8
the dry summers and the mineral-laden soils. But Ruffino, with over 140 years of innovation and quality under their belts, has always chased something beyond their terroir.
All that money, time and tradition-founding is well spent, because the wines are highly acclaimed. The Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Gold consistently receives scores of 90+ points
Medium-bodied, Chianti Ruffino is characterized by a marvelous freshness that makes this a very pleasant and easy-to-drink wine. Persistent fruity sensations feature a long aftertaste.
from James Suckling and Wine Spectator, with the most recent vintage, the 2011, pulling in 91 points from James Suckling. The Prosecco has also received praise from critics, including a solid 89-point score from The Tasting Panel. Easily slipping from modern styles to timeless varietals, Ruffino is, in Beppe’s words, an “old winery that is young at heart.” They understand the importance of tradition. It can be challenging to stand out from those
2010 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tan Label $18 Fruity and well-balanced with velvety tannins and enjoyable spice. Oak aging enriches the fruity core with hints of cacao and cloves. The lingering aftertaste adds notes of rosemary and fig.
50,000 wineries mentioned earlier, but Beppe is Beppe d’Andrea
“It became a very well-known brand, and we
ever-positive. “We love the competition because it pushes us to improve,” he said with a smile.
are still making wine with the same concept.
Ruffino’s mission is to turn every meal into a
We [actually] make the wine, we have our own
special occasion. What if we lived like this? What
vineyards, this is a [major] difference,” Beppe
would happen to our stress levels, our outlook,
d’Andrea explained. As the Global Brand
our priorities? Pick up a bottle of Ruffino
Ambassador, he makes his daily goal to meld
wine today and see what a difference this
innovation and tradition. And with a 140+ year
perspective makes. o
old winery, one might think this is difficult. “We always say, innovation today must be tradition
Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Gold Label $32 Ruby red. A classic Chianti Classico bouquet with notes of violets, cherries, plums and spice. Full-bodied with a generous, fruity core; notes of cherries and small berry fruits blend with sensations of rosemary, thyme and hints of oak. The finish is very long and reminiscent of violets, nutmeg, plums and sweet tobacco.
tomorrow. When we talk about a new wine, and we need to invest money and create a team that works for that product, we don’t like to work just for fun and then after years it disappears and there will be another wine,” he said. Instead, when they work with something new, they work with the idea in mind that it will become tradition.
Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio $8 Medium-bodied, fragrant and elegant with marvelous freshness and notes of yellow fruits. A pleasant mineral touch completes a long-lasting final, which recalls hints of sage and still denotes a good freshness. wine journal | 3
WINE LIST WHITE
CHARDONNAY
MERLOT
Boedecker Purity Chardonnay (p 10)
Canoe Ridge Expedition Chardonnay (p 7)
PINOT NOIR
Boedecker Pinot Noir (p 10)
PINOT GRIS
Boedecker Reflection Rosé (p 10)
La Cappuccina Organic Pinot Grigio (p 10)
Elouan Pinot Noir (p 13)
Pappas Pinot Gris (p 10)
Suvali Pinot Noir (p 11)
Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio (p 3)
REDS CABERNET Canoe Ridge Expedition Cabernet Sauvignon (p 7) CHIANTI
Ruffino Chianti (p 3)
Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Gold Label (p 3) Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tan Label (p 3) MALBEC
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Canoe Ridge Expedition Merlot (p 7)
Château de Haute-Serre Cahors (p 5)
Château de Haute-Serre Cuvée Géron Dadine (p 5)
Château de Haute-Serre Icône (p 5)
SPARKLING
Chandon Brut Classic (p 14)
Charles Mignon Brut Rosé Cuvée Comte de Marne Grand Cru (p 14)
Collalto Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore (p 10)
Giorgi Costarosa Sanque di Giuda (p 10)
Mumm Napa Brut Rosé (p 14)
Ruffino Prosecco (p 3)
Treveri Blanc de Blancs Brut (p 14)
WO R L D ’ S B E S T M A L B E C S ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M
The perfect trifecta of Malbec is now complete
Dating back to Roman times, the Cahors vineyard
Cuvée Prestige Géron Dadine is only made in
with the addition of the 2014 Cuvée Géron
is one of the oldest in France. Cahors wines are
top years and the 2014 Cahors Cuvée Géron
Dadine from Château de Haute-Serre in Cahors.
powerful and robust, with deep color that inspired
Dadine is 100% Malbec aged for 18 months
Cuvée Géron Dadine ($40) has joined the other
the English reference “Black Wine of Cahors.”
in new French oak. This is a full-bodied wine,
two wines from Château de Haute-Serre: The
Adopted by the Orthodox Church as Mass wine,
exhibiting opaque purple color, aromas and
Icône ($110), which is quite possibly the world’s
the Black Wine is becoming increasingly popular
flavors of currant and blackberry liqueur,
best Malbec, and the standard Malbec of Château
with the wine enthusiasts of the 21st century to
moderate, ripe tannins and an ever-lasting finish.
de Haute-Serre ($22), which makes it the world’s
whom it is better known as Malbec.
best value in Malbec.
The Icône is the ultimate achievement of the
In fact, Malbec (aka Côt, Côt Noir, Auxerrois,
joint efforts of Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux and
The wines are produced by Bertrand-Gabriel
Pressac, etc.) is original to Burgundy but got its
Paul Hobbs, the emblematic world’s-top-Malbec-
Vigouroux, proprietor of several wine estates
fame in Bordeaux and Cahors. Cahors wine can
expert. Paul is the “flying-winemaker” who
in the area, including Château de Haute-Serre
be enjoyed young but some of the best examples
consults for hundreds of wineries around the
and Château de Mercuès. At the time when
can be aged for 10 or more years.
world, most notably in California and Mendoza,
Georges Vigouroux, Bertrand’s father, purchased Château de Haute-Serre in 1970, the estate had been abandoned for nearly 100 years after the phylloxera devastation of the late 19th century. The vineyard of Château de Haute-Serre is a 70acre single plot of Malbec planted on
south-facing slopes of a hill, the top of
which marks the highest elevation of
the Cahors appellation at 1,000 feet.
The 2014 Château de Haute-Serre Malbec exhibits deep purple color and enticing aromas of black currant, blueberries, black truffle and mocha. The palate is generous, balanced and complex, reinforced by rich, spicy oak flavors. This one is best enjoyed with grilled red meats and
truffle-based dishes.
with his latest projects taking him to the oldest vineyards of the world in Eastern Europe. He is passionately involved in every-one of his projects and that transpires in his engaging personality. The Icône exhibits opaque purple-black color and aromas and flavors of black currant, blackberry, vanilla and violets; full-bodied, with solid but silky and well-integrated tannins, perfect balance and an impressive 30+-second finish. Best enjoyed with grilled red meats and black trufflebased dishes. Quantities are very limited as total production is only 3,000 bottles. o
Medieval bridge over the Lot river in Cahors
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CANOE RIDGE:
The Spirit of Northwest Adventure DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM
Famed explorers Lewis and Clark named the Canoe Ridge as they came down the Columbia River, since it looked like an upturned canoe. The winery
was founded in 1989 in Horse Heaven Hills with winemaker John Abbott. His good friend Bill Murray took over as head winemaker in 2011 and has since then expanded their portfolio. The new Expedition line embodies what the winery calls “The Spirit of Northwest Adventure,” a spirit one can taste in every handcrafted bottle of Canoe Ridge wine.
Dan Eddy: Bill, you grew up in Napa. How
some of the pioneers of the Washington wine
DE: I’m curious since we’re talking about
is Washington different for you?
industry. It’s been pretty cool watching it go
differences. Aside from varietal composition,
Bill Murray: You know it’s different in a
from Chalone, to Diageo, to now Precept, and
what is the one major difference to growing
lot of ways, and in some ways it’s similar.
see the success that we’re having now.
grapes in Washington versus California?
If you look at the similarities, winemaking is winemaking. The difference is obviously the terroir, the climate, where we sit on the parallel, as far as the hours of daylight we get during the growing season and the type of varietals that I’m working with. If you know anything about my California winemaking it was all Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and that’s all I did for 20 years.
DE: You were really instrumental in defining Horse Heaven Hills as an AVA. Do you feel like Horse Heaven Hills is completely on the map now?
BM: Definitely. There is no doubt about it. It’s such a unique area. If you look at the portfolio of Precept, being Waterbrook and Canoe Ridge, their wine styles are very different, and when I hear that, I take it as
DE: Is it a little bit of a different community
a compliment. The area where the fruit is
culture? It seems like the creation of Canoe
grown is very distinct, tannic. We get these
Ridge originally was a bunch of farmers and
high winds so the grapes have these tough
businessmen getting together, so almost like a
skins that bring color, tannin and structure.
convivial community atmosphere rather than
More than anywhere else I’ve seen in my
a cutthroat business creation.
winemaking career. Very distinct from any
BM: I was very much a part of the beginning
other Washington wine appellation.
of the whole concept of Canoe Ridge. Chalone
“We get these high winds
started it and I worked at Acacia with John Abbott. In John’s second year at Acacia, they
so the grapes have these
approached him to head this new project, and
tough skins that bring
since we were so close I would go up with John to Walla Walla and work with him on
color, tannin and structure.
the project. It also had to do with meeting
More than anywhere
Rick Small at Woodward Canyon, who was
else I’ve seen in my
instrumental in helping us out. We jumped in and were fortunate enough to work with wine journal | 6
winemaking career.”
BM: I think the thing that we look at is how high we are on the parallel, we get a shorter season, we get bud break much later, but then we catch up—by the middle of June we have 16 hours of sunlight. We slow down towards the end (this is my sixth vintage at Canoe Ridge), and I get to this panicking point where we are not quite where we should be on ripeness, on our later varietals like Cabernet, but the beauty of Horse Heaven Hills is the Columbia River right off our banks controlling the climate and the temperature, because it still has some warmth in it. I have hung grapes on the vine until the 8th or the 12th of November, the week before Thanksgiving, and I could never do that in my 20 years in Napa. You wouldn’t get any sugar movement, maturing of the fruit, but you can in Horse Heaven Hills. We’ve also had some problems with frost in the Northwest in the last few years, and again we get that protection from the Columbia River, so we’ve escaped while others haven’t.
DE: At this time ABC is just carrying The Expedition line. I know this is a newer line for you guys, and I’m curious: Was it because you wine journal | 5
wanted to broaden your exposure? What was
DE: Since Canoe Ridge is new in our stores,
the thought behind the Expedition line?
what is the one thing you want our guests
BM: When we came up with the idea of the
to know about your wines or the winery or
“The one thing that
Expedition, we wanted to make wines that
your practices?
were more approachable right away. Wines that
BM: The one thing that we’ve talked about,
we’ve talked about,
don’t necessarily have to lay down, they are just
which is so important, is the appellation of
which is so important,
everyday drinking wines made in the opposite
Horse Heaven Hills. It makes the wine so
is the appellation of
style of the Reserves, less time on the skins,
distinct from anywhere else. I think that’s one
possibly a higher crop in the vineyard, not as
of the most important selling points. When
Horse Heaven Hills.”
much time in oak. We’re really working on
I go on the road, and I talk and I do sales
softening those tannins, so the wine was a lot
meetings, that is the one key point,
more approachable, and that was the concept
the location. o
of the Expedition line.
Canoe Ridge Expedition Cabernet Sauvignon $15
Canoe Ridge Expedition Chardonnay $15
Canoe Ridge Expedition Merlot $15
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Wine Naturally! S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M
atural wine is recent in headlines, but is nothing new. It means exactly what it says: non-interventional winegrowing/winemaking. And while I grasp the N concept, I can see this “new” idea of winemaking getting caught up in the already existing confusion between organic, sustainable and biodynamic winemaking. So let’s clear a few things up. Before we try to define each ideology/practice, let’s remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I don’t personally buy any wines simply because they are organic or natural, although I do drink many wines from some of the producers who work biodynamically or organically, because I like their wines. It doesn’t hurt that all of these processes put Mother Earth first. That you gotta love!
Wine made from organic grapes
When a wine is labelled “Wine made from Organic Grapes,” it is an indication that the grapes used to produce this wine were farmed within the principles of organic farming, which disallow the application of herbicides, pesticides, fungicides and artificial fertilizers. This wine will still likely have added sulfites, which act as a preservative to fend off any bacterial uprisings. While some producers may choose to lower the amount of sulfites added, that is arbitrary and I usually assume they add the standard dose. These rules are regulated. Try these vineyards for wines made from organic grapes. • Maison Champy, Burgundy • Château Gigognan, Rhône
• Zinck, Alsace
• Poggerino, Tuscany
• Château de Trians, Provence
• Tenuta la Ripa, Tuscany
• La Cappuccina, Veneto
Certified Organic wine
A Certified Organic wine, at least in the United States, is a wine whose grapes were grown following the rules of organic farming similar to wines made from organic grapes. The difference is that in this instance the addition of any sulfites is prohibited. They are also the least shelf stable wine and there is a chance, especially in white wine, that they can spoil due to bacterial issues or re-fermentation.
Sustainable farming practices
Here you find practices used in the vineyard that go beyond the organic regulations. Using compost is probably the best-known practice in sustainable farming, but additionally, growers may plant other crops near the vines, sometimes between the rows, to attract insects like bees (to aid in pollination), as well as other bugs which prove to be healthy for the vineyard, vines and earth. Clay Shannon at Shannon Ridge in Lake County, California, is well-known for his use of sheep in the vineyards, a system called the Ovis Cycle. Others till the earth between the rows with horses, rather than machines, which reduces gas emission. The government does not regulate sustainable practice as they do organic, but the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance defines the codes. Try these. • Shannon Ridge
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• Vigilance
• Cross Springs
Biodynamic farming practices
Biodynamic wines follow the standards set by the Demeter Association, the certifying body whose rules follow the farming techniques of Austrian Rudolf Steiner. He believed and taught that farms are self-sustaining, living systems directly connected with nature. His techniques consider the entire ecosystem as well as some more spiritual aspects. As with organic farming, biodynamic uses no synthetics, but here no additions are allowed, such as non-indigenous yeasts. Biodynamic wines follow lunar cycles and astrological charts. Remember, these are farming practices, so a wine labelled as “made with biodynamic grapes” can still have sulfites for stabilization. Biodynamic wines cannot. These estates follow biodynamic farming practices. • Oakville East, Napa • Maysara, Willamette Valley
• Domaine de Bila Haut, Roussillon
CONFESSIONS of a Wine Sipper BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM
Being in the wine business, my colleagues and I have the opportunity
to sip a lot of wine. Just how much I never took the time to think about. So in the name of research, and as a matter of interest, here is a record of what I sip over an average week – FRIDAY
Today happened to be a vacation day, but a wine importer/friend invited me to lunch, and as the lunch happened to be at the Élevage Restaurant in the Epicurean Hotel in Tampa, and as my friend always brings some great wine to taste, I was not averse to doing a little work on my day off. He didn’t disappoint. Lunch was excellent – a duck club sandwich with brie, poached pear, arugula and mustard seed paired with three stunning wines from Zuccardi, one of my favorite Argentine producers. Given the opportunity to order another wine from the wine list I chose Jean Luc Colombo ‘Le Terres Brulées’ Cornas from the Rhône Valley – to compare and contrast.
SATURDAY
Oh dear, another lunch! A very good friend asked if I would like to join her at Alesia, a great French Vietnamese restaurant in St. Pete. It was a gorgeous day so we sat outside at a table underneath a bougainvillea and enjoyed a charcuterie platter, followed by a Croque Madame, comprised of jambon de Paris, sautéed onions, gruyère, mushrooms and Mornay sauce topped with an egg sunny-side up. Is there any wine in the world better for outdoor daytime sipping than a rosé from Provence?
SUNDAY
As much as possible I like Sunday to be my quiet stay-at-home day. I truly enjoy dawdling over a simple breakfast of juice, tea, toast and marmalade while listening to some soft classical music. At about noon I usually invite my mom over and we open a bottle of bubbly – sometimes Champagne, or it could be Cava, Franciacorta, Prosecco. Today we enjoyed Fusion by Giorgi, a brut sparkler from Italy, paired with brie, pecorino romano, olives, almonds and grapes.
MONDAY
Back to work and off to our main office in Orlando for a meeting. This is an all-day session of tasting a hundred or so wines to decide which fit the needs of our portfolio and show an excellent quality-to-price ratio. Out of the hundred or more wines that we assess we may choose about 15. One wine from Argentina made the cut – a Malbec/Cabernet Franc blend from Santa Julia that got 95 points from Decanter magazine. Home run!
TUESDAY
WEDNESDAY
I don’t want to give the impression that I only drink wine. Some evenings I arrive home tired and with a thirst that only beer can quench. Especially after a day of wine tasting, a cold beer is just the thing to clear your palate. More than one winemaker of my acquaintance has said to me, “It takes a lot of beer to make good wine!” Another occasional favorite when I get home is a gin and tonic – for me, one of the most refreshing drinks there is.
THURSDAY
Tonight, one of our Tampa ABC stores had a wine tasting and I was asked to pour at a table. This is a part of my job that I delight in– pouring and talking about the wines to our guests, listening to their reactions, especially to wines they might not have sampled before. Tonight I poured Höpler Pinot Blanc from Austria, Hope Estate Shiraz from Australia, Humo Blanco Gran Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile, La Bella Prosecco from Italy, and Oakville East Exposure from Napa. And there was just enough left of the Höpler and the Humo Blanco to enjoy when I got home.
My own sipping enjoyment at home can be varied. If I’ve been teaching wine classes to our store staff, as I did today, I usually grab a leftover bottle to sip while I cook. Today I grabbed bottles of Fault Line Chardonnay from Sonoma Coast, and Cuvelier Los Andes Colección, a red blend from Mendoza, Argentina.
So there you have it. An average work week. And despite how it may sound I don’t really drink a lot. But when I think that I could be selling dental equipment or used cars, I am more than thankful that my love of wine has allowed me to do what I do! o wine journal | 9
Wine festivals > Music festivals DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM
T
here is no doubt that wine festivals have grown in popularity in recent years. These multi-day events often attract wine enthusiasts from all over the country who come together to celebrate wine and discover new favorites, often while benefiting local charities. One such festival, The Sandestin Wine Festival, recently celebrated its 31st anniversary with the help of ABC and other sponsors who raised money for children’s charities. This four-day event, which takes place just steps from the beautiful Emerald Coast of North Florida, has been named the “best annual event” by Destin Magazine and is regarded as one of the top wine festivals in Florida. There aren’t many places where one can sample hundreds of wines and delicious bites while basking in the warm Florida sun. This year, over 2,000 attendees took advantage! For 2017, ABC was pleased to welcome three special guests to present some of their amazing wines to this year’s attendees: Athena Pappas of Pappas Wine Company, Stewart Boedecker of Boedecker Cellars, and Nadia Galati of Alberello Imports. The husband and wife team of Stewart and Athena founded their winery in 2003 with a focus on wines of quality and finesse that represent the true style of Oregon viticulture. Today they make multiple bottlings, including Athena’s Pappas label, from some
of the top vineyard sites throughout the Willamette Valley. Boedecker’s Purity Chardonnay, an unoaked version aged on its lees for added complexity, was a huge hit with the Sandestin crowd. This style of Chardonnay is surging in popularity, and this is one of the best ABC carries. It opens with aromas of citrus and apple, with
a creamy mouthfeel and refreshing acidity. This is not to be missed for those looking for a wine to pair with seafood. Not to be outdone was Athena’s Pappas Pinot Gris, with its classic flavor profile of peaches and apricots. As white wine goes, the Willamette Valley is known for its Pinot Gris, and this is one of the best for the buck you’ll find anywhere. Another crowd favorite was Stewart’s Pinot
Boedecker Purity Chardonnay – $19
Noir, a classic Oregon Pinot with aromatics that pop and a flavor profile of red fruits with a hint of spice. Those who read publications like Wine Spectator will find multiple top ratings
Pappas Pinot Gris – $16
for this wine. For fans of this style, it is not to be missed.
Boedecker Pinot Noir – $29
The real star of the show was Boedecker’s Reflection Rosé made from Pinot Noir. Many attendees were unaware that rosé could be done in this style, but that didn’t stop them
Giorgi Costarosa Sanque di Giuda – $14
from enjoying this crisp, delicious, bone-dry, refreshing rosé in the 80-degree weather! No discussion of Italian wines at ABC would
Collalto Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore – $15
be complete without a mention of Nadia Galati. Nadia has been a strong supporter of ABC for years, hand-picking amazing Italian wines from family-run wineries. Those who have had
La Cappuccina Organic Pinot Grigio – $12
the pleasure of meeting her at an event and tasting her wines will all say the same thing: Nadia gets it right. Having Nadia at Sandestin
Boedecker Reflection Rosé – $15
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Destin Shoreline
was a real treat, and her lineup did not disappoint. The most popular wine in her portfolio and a star at the wine festival was Giorgi’s Costarosa Sangue di Giuda from the Lombardy region. This sweet red, with its slight effervescence, was wonderfully refreshing with notes of red raspberries. I loved seeing the looks on people’s faces when they tried this wine for the first time. It was one of both intrigue and amazement. If you’re telling yourself, “It’s sweet, and I don’t like sweet wines, so I won’t like it,” do yourself a favor and give it a chance. You might be surprised. Another crowd favorite and top performer in her portfolio was Collalto’s Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore. The popularity of Prosecco continues to rise, and those with the Superiore designation are considered the best. This bubbly screams, “drink me at the beach!” It’s deliciously fruity, crisp and refreshing. If you love sparkling wine and warm weather, this Prosecco is for you! Another hit, as well as a personal favorite, was La Cappuccina’s Organic Pinot Grigio. To understand this wine, one must first excuse anything they’ve heard about Pinot Grigio being simple and uninteresting. When made in the right hands, that is simply not the case. La Cappuccina’s grapes are grown in volcanic soil and the wine is aged for five months on its lees to give it depth and complexity. It’s a wine with lovely citrus notes, refreshing acidity and a minerality that leaves your mouth watering. Next time you’re thinking Sauvignon Blanc, try this instead. You won’t be disappointed. Having Stewart, Athena and Nadia join us for this year’s festival was a real treat appreciated by all attendees who tasted their wines. Fun was had by all and money was raised for a great cause. If you were not able to attend this year’s festival, mark your calendars for next year when the 32nd annual Sandestin Wine Festival returns in April. o wine journal | 11
12 THINGS TO KNOW TO SOUND LIKE A WINE PRO ( AND LESS LIKE A SNOB ) JANESSA SCHUSTER – ABC WINE & SPIRITS SPECIALIST, TAMPA • CERTIFIED SOMMELIER
W
e’ve all been there. Scared to open our mouths and say what style of wine we like. Scared of not being able to participate in a wine conversation without an “expert” seeing right through us. Many times, a guest will come to me in the store and admit: “I’m not a connoisseur, but I’m going to a friend’s house and they drink a lot of wine. What do I bring? What do I say?” What are the basics to know when you talk to a wine pro? Here are 12.
grandfathered in, you can’t put “California Champagne” on it anymore. “Sparkling wine” is the proper term, even when discussing French sparklers that aren’t from the region of Champagne. The biggest difference is a fermentation method in which the second fermentation (that creates those small, silky bubbles) occurs in the bottle. Other restrictions involve aging time and grape varietals permitted.
6. Know that wine has acidity
There are many different styles of wine in a range of sweetness levels. Wines can also have only a hint of subtle sweetness from winemaker’s choice or natural residual sugar left after full fermentation. While less expensive wines usually do appeal to the sweet-toothed masses, sweetness does not equate to lower quality whatsoever. Try a sweet Sauternes with foie gras or spicy sushi with sweet German Riesling. It’ll change your opinion quickly.
Acidity levels range with different varieties of grapes, and grape growers and winemakers are relentless about harvesting grapes at optimal acidity levels. Acidity is what makes wines food friendly, so don’t be scared by its harsh appearance. If you want to sound really knowledgeable, talk about malolactic fermentation. Malic acid is what’s in a tart, green apple; lactic acid is what’s in yogurt and butter. Winemakers choose how much malic acid to convert into lactic acid for ideal balance in both red and white wines. It’s from this process that we achieve those buttery Chardonnays.
2. Tannins are not taboo
7. Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape.
1. Know the difference between sweet and dry (and that one is not better than the other)
There are good tannins and not so good tannins. Tannins are best described as a bitter, astringent quality derived from the skins of grapes and the wood barrels used to age wine. Tannins are what make your mouth feel dry. It’s a matter of personal preference if a tannic style of wine is desired.
3. Know the difference between full, medium and light-bodied wines A wine’s body is best compared to the consistency of milk. Full is like whole milk, medium is like 2% and light is like skim. But remember: Less body does not mean less flavor.
4. Pink does not mean sweet! Whether rosé is still or sparkling, it’s a common misconception that a pink hue means the wine is sweet. Try a Provence rosé to see what I mean.
5. Champagnes are not all created equal Champagne is a region in France whose name is protected by law. Unless your wine label was wine journal | 12
Shiraz is the term used in Australia and South Africa. To-may-toe, to-mah-toe. Also, Petite Sirah is a different grape entirely.
8. Screwcaps are not a sign of inferiority In fact, screwcaps are a safer way to enclose wine. No more cork taint! They’re also less expensive—especially for countries like Australia and New Zealand who would need to pay steep prices to get cork all the way from Portugal and Spain where it grows. Screwcaps are generally (but not always) reserved for wines meant to be consumed young and fresh. Bonus tip: Smelling the cork tells you nothing about the wine, but it does tell the seasoned wine expert that you don’t know any better.
9. Not all wines improve with age Time can do a world of difference to a wine, and there are optimal times to enjoy every style of wine, but a lot of wines don’t stand up as well as people think. Some wines are just meant to be enjoyed young, and that’s ok.
10. Know how much alcohol you prefer Fortified wines have alcohol added to them, but many wines from hotter climates like California or Australia can have alcohol levels approaching 16 percent! Cooler climates like Germany or parts of France have lower levels around 11 or 12 percent. This is because the extra sun will produce riper grapes with more sugar (which is what converts into alcohol). The alcohol content is what causes “legs” to form on the sides of the wine glass (called the Marangoni Effect). The speed of the running streaks clue you in to a wine’s alcohol content, a task only really useful for those assessing wine in a blind taste test.
11. Sulfite-free wine doesn’t truly exist You can always tell who the true wine geeks are when we start talking about sulfites. Sulfite sensitivity is a real thing to consult a doctor about, but it’s not as major as the population makes it out to be. Although organic wines are lower in added sulfites, sulfite compounds are natural to the winemaking process. Sulfites also preserve dried fruits like apricots, as well as seafood, jams and pickles, and are naturally occurring in cheese.
12. Know a style of wine you prefer and be confident about it Whatever style of wine you enjoy, mainstream or obscure, it’s all subjective. It’s acceptable to have your own taste, and confidence and passion radiate far in wine discourse. True wine professionals need to be objective in order to professionally evaluate wine and make recommendations, but we have our own personal favorites too. It’s our job to decipher your context clues and find the perfect fit for you. The next time you approach your local ABC Wine & Spirits Specialist, let them know your preferences and they’ll be happy to guide you through a journey of wines you’re sure to love. o
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Elouan Pinot Noir | $20
T HE C HAMPAGNE D IFFERENCE BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER
C
hampagne refers to the wines of a specific region east-northeast of Paris. Because of its fame, other sparkling wines around the world have usurped the name – that is finally changing. The method of making Champagne is long and cumbersome. Called Méthode Champenoise, it is what sets it apart from other sparklers. The wine begins in fermenting in the bottle, with a small amount of grape juice added to then age. After aging, the bottles are placed in a pupitre, an A-shaped rack with holes for the bottles. The bottles are stored neck down for disgorgement process by which the bottles are turned and given a little shake regularly until the sediment rests
against the cork. The cork is then plunged into a freezing brine solution which attaches the sediment to the cork. The cork is popped off and a small amount of liqueur is added which determines the relative dryness of the finished wine. Depending upon the style, the finished wines can be laid down for years to age before release. Many other sparkling wines are made in a closed tank to eliminate the expensive disgorgement process. Some are very good value but Champagne really is the king of complexity. o
Charles Mignon Brut Rosé Cuvée Comte de Marne Grand Cru – Champagne, France | $47 This is one of the few rosés produced from grand cru vineyards. Made from 55% Pinot Noir and 44% Chardonnay with a little still Pinot Noir from Bouzy for extra color; the wine has light orange color, fresh strawberry aromas and an elegance that sets it apart from lesser rosés.
Mumm Napa Brut Rosé – California | $19
Treveri Blanc de Blancs Brut – Yakima Valley, Washington | $15
A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay made in the Méthode Traditionnelle, the Pinot Noir adds depth and strawberry and currant notes on a dry, toasty finish.
Treveri is a rising star in American sparkling wines. The vineyards are in the Yakima Valley of Washington. Reviews have been high for the wines from the beginning. The Blanc de Blancs Brut is 100% Chardonnay, bottle-fermented in the Champagne method. It’s toasty and rich with bracing acidity in the finish.
Chandon Brut Classic – California | $18 Made in the Champagne method, dubbed Méthode Traditionnelle in California, the wine is a blend of the same grapes in Champagne: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The grapes are sourced from the cool climate regions of northern California and the wine is toasty and dry in the Champagne style.
wine journal | 14
A MEMORABLE DAY
IN VERONA
PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM
I
n general I have a very positive outlook on life.
there is no greater one-day tasting event than
my classmates were wined and dined in what
Opera Wine.
made for an unforgettable evening.
Attending Opera Wine would have been
Days like that don’t happen all the time but
enough to qualify this as being a noteworthy
that’s why we appreciate them so much. Grazie
I had one of those remarkable days on my most
day but as students of the VIA Certification
mille to all who helped make this day possible. o
recent trip to Italy this past April. I awoke the
Course, we were given VIP status to sit in on a
morning of April 8th having just completed
press conference and enjoy a light lunch with
one of the most intense weeks of my life. I was
the winemakers. This also meant we had early
enrolled as a student in the Vinitaly International
access to the tasting before the crowd became
Academy (VIA) Certification Course. The
too large. The press conference was the custom-
VIA Certification Course is held each year in
ary matter of business: lots of speeches by the
Verona, Italy. Taught by Dr. Ian D’Agata, widely
president of Vinitaly, Wine Spectator editors
recognized as the world’s foremost expert on
and the owner of the world’s largest retail wine
Italian grapes and wine, the classes were as
chain in China. Stevie Kim, the Managing
demanding as any I have ever taken. Needless
Director of Vinitaly International, then took the
to say, it was a relief to have that part of the trip
microphone and began to explain the purpose
behind me. With all the classroom lectures and
and goals of the Vinitaly International Acade-
guided tastings completed, it was time to have
my. The objective of the VIA Certification is to
some fun.
develop a cadre of enthusiasts who are highly
Even challenging days are balanced out by days that put a smile on my face whenever I think back on them.
First on our agenda for the day was a wine tasting presented by the Wine Spectator and Vinitaly known as Opera Wine. Now in its sixth year, Opera Wine is an exclusive event held in the palatial Palazzo Della Guardia overlooking the Roman Arena in the heart of Verona. Each of
knowledgeable about Italian wine and can share their expertise with others. She and Ian D’Agata subsequently announced the top five in this year’s graduating class and invited them up on stage. I was completely taken by surprise when I was included with this group.
the wineries selected pour one great vintage of
By the conclusion of Opera Wine I am in a state
their wine. The owners and winemakers are on
of bliss and before you ask, no I did not do a lot
hand to answer any questions. The selection of
of spitting at the tasting. The day however still
these prestigious estates is based on their track
had much more in store for us. Our entire class
record of quality and their historical impor-
of VIA students were invited to a gala dinner
tance in the region. It is really an extraordinary
inside the Verona Arena. The Arena is an am-
gathering of some of Italy’s most distinguished
phitheater built in the first century and is one
wineries: Biondi Santi, Bruno Giacosa, Fontodi,
of the best preserved ancient structures of its
Gaia, Ornellaia, Sassicaia and the list goes on
kind. Talk about atmosphere! Under a starlit sky
104 producers strong. For an Italian wine lover,
many of the attendees at Opera Wine along with
wine journal | 15
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WINE
TO
WATCH:
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RIPE CHERRY, OAK, CORIANDER & SAFFRON
FL AVO R :
Plum and black cherry
BODY:
Medium-bodied
COLOR:
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FINISH:
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