Wine Journal January/February

wine journal Ja nu a r y/ Febr u a r y 2017

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

Veuve Ambal might be the world’s best value sparkling wine

Copper Cane infuses the market with luxury

French Libations Trip 2016

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2017 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com

“Wine is the answer. What was the question?”

– Anonymous

wines carry the spirit 3 These 10 of the holidays into the dreariness of January.

5

Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com

Copper Cane’s Joseph Wagner introduces the newest wine to his stunning portfolio.

Sparkling wine is a growing category but it doesn’t have to bust the budget.

down” after the 12 “Wine holidays with these vinos.

OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountr y.

We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.

abcfws.com wine journal | A

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The French Libations Trip might’ve been the best one of 2016.

13

Riesling is once again defended as prestigious.

14

Kelley Styring let us into her world of wine.

8 16 trends: where we’ve 9 Wine been and where we’re going.

Tempranillo proves itself deliciously wallet-friendly.

This Columbia Valley Cabernet hits all the classic notes of the varietal with a luscious twist.

Celebrating Again BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER

I

after all the lights and decorations are down

Casarena Malbec Reservado 2013 – Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, $19

and put away. The holidays are over and we

Casarena’s Malbec Reservado is one of the

t’s remarkable how January seems so dreary

pick up the pieces to move forward into another year. Football bowl games keep some of the party atmosphere alive, which makes for good grilling opportunities and red wine to match.

Here are three favorites: Château Féret Lambert 2012 – Bordeaux Supérieur, France $19 This is one of the best values in Bordeaux.

The vineyard is planted on a deep deposit

very few top Malbecs from Argentina. Michel Rolland was the winemaker originally. The

Contadi Castaldi Rosé – Franciacorta, Italy, $22

wine shows a big framework with balance

Contadi Castaldi’s Rosé is Pinot Noir and

carrying notes of blueberry, plum and currant

Chardonnay with the color coming from the

with cedar and a hint of vanilla. This one is

Pinot Noir. It opens with bright pink color

made for beef.

leading to notes of strawberry and currantand

Block 817 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2014 – Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California $20

finishing with bright acidity.

Château de Pibarnon Rosé 2015 – Bandol, France, $27

of limestone like the one just across the

The Alexander Valley in Sonoma has a warm

This is one of the premier rosés of France.

Dordogne River in St. Émilion. It’s 90%

climate and alluvial soils from the Russian

The vineyard is a steeply terraced limestone

Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The

River. This Cabernet shows bright ruby color,

amphitheater planted in 65% Mourvèdre and

2012 opens with bright ruby color leading

a hint of cedar and notes of black cherry and

35% Cinsault. The wine is a salmon color with

to notes of plum, currant and a hint of cedar

plum on a ripe finish. It’s another solid match

notes of licorice, citrus and raspberry. The

carried on a medium framework.

for grilled red meats.

wine gets power from the Mourvèdre and

February is a time to start celebrating again

fruit notes from the Cinsault.

in my family. We have birthdays on the 12th,

Solitude Chardonnay 2013 – Carneros, California, $29

13th, 15th and 16th with Valentine’s Day in the middle. Champagne is always the wine for celebrating these occasions but these three less expensive options offer great value.

Contadi Castaldi winery in Franciacorta

Richard Litsch has been making Solitude for 27 years. The Chardonnay is 100% from The Sangiacomo family’s vineyard in Carneros. It’s barrel-fermented and shows pear and tropical fruit notes with firm acidity for balance. o

The vineyards of Franciacorta with the Lago d’Iseo in the distance

wine journal | 3

WINE LIST WHITES CHARDONNAY

Solitude Chardonnay 2013 Carneros (p 3)

RIESLING

Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling (p 13) Chateau Ste Michelle Dry Riesling(p 13) Eroica Chateau Ste Michelle (p 13) Fox Run Riesling (p 13) Thanisch QBA Riesling (p 13) Thanisch Badstube Kabinett (p 13) Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Kabinett (p 13) Wagner Riesling (p 13)

SANGIOVESE

La Gerla Sangiovese (p 12)

TEMPRANILLO

Adelfa Tempranillo (p 8) Cune Rioja Crianza (p 8) Neo Sentido (p 8) Torete Tempranillo (p 8)

ROSÉ

REDS

Contadi Castaldi Rosé (p 3)

BORDEAUX BLEND

SPARKLING

BLEND Nicolis Valpolicella Classico (p 12)

Veuve Ambal Prestige Brut 2010 (p 11)

Château Féret Lambert 2012 (p 3)

La Cappucina Madego (p 12) Racemi Giravolta (p 12) Chionetti Dolcetto San Luigi (p 12)

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Block 817 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2014 (p 3) Block 1029 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (p 16) Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon (p 5)

wine journal | 4

MALBEC

Casarena Malbec Reservado 2013 (p 3)

Château de Pibarnon Rosé 2015 (p 3)

Veuve Ambal Brut (p 11) Veuve Ambal Crémant de Bourgogne Demi-Sec (p 11)

A Patchwork of Napa MEGHAN GUARINO • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • MEGHANG@ABCFWS.COM

In 2013, Joe Wagner, of the legendary Napa

bit of Wooden Valley as well—that’s our blend…

an opportunity to showcase what Napa Valley is

winemaking Wagner family, launched a portfolio

We take some Cabernet from a cooler region, say

best at doing.”

of wines under a new name, Copper Cane. The

Coombsville or the east Napa area, and incorporate

portfolio includes Oregon Pinot Noir Elouan,

a little bit of mountain fruit and some of that firm

classic Napa Zinfandel Beran and Napa Valley

tannin from Atlas Peak and Howell Mountain

blended wines Carne Humana among others.

and merge that in with the base of the valley floor

Added to that list is a highly anticipated Napa

from Calistoga down to about Yountville... We

Valley Cabernet.

take the patchwork throughout Napa Valley and

Introducing the newest wine to the Copper Cane portfolio, Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon.

“Napa Valley is pretty much a monoculture in the sense that it’s one crop from beginning to end. If you look at it from an aerial you have a beautiful patchwork, but it goes beyond that,” Joe Wagner said. “The concept of Quilt was to take Napa Valley proper—Calistoga in the north down to Napa in the south, and then the hillside regions of Atlas Peak and Howell Mountain, and little

create a single blend that is Quilt.”

It’s hard to argue that. Napa Valley is known for creating some of the most highly coveted Cabernets in the world, and Quilt, a blend of some of the best characteristics Napa Cabs have to offer, is a salute to these legendary wines. Combining an array of Cabernet grapes grown throughout Napa, the team at Copper Cane are able to finely tune

This Cabernet Sauvignon offers incredible quality

the characteristics displayed in every bottle of

for the price. The philosophy at Copper Cane is to

Quilt. Showing lush fruit and elegant tannins,

make luxury and elegance attainable for everyday

this wine overdelivers in quality.

enjoyment. “I feel like Napa Valley has gotten so overpriced in the market at times that it’s hard for people to get acquainted with it,” Joe explained.

“I’m excited to showcase what Napa Valley does best,” Joe said.

“We wanted to get something out there that

Find Quilt and other Copper Cane wines at

would get the younger generation excited again

select ABC Fine Wine & Spirits locations

about Cabernet from Napa Valley, and give us

throughout Florida. o

wine journal | 5

WINE TRENDS 2O17:

What Are You Drinking and What Will You Be Drinking?

BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

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hose of us who have been enjoying wine for a long time have seen many changes in the buying habits of wine drinkers over the years.

Many of these changes have been for the better as consumers in general become more educated. A few changes, granted, can make some of us roll our eyes and shake our heads in wonder. But even these trends can have a positive result – everyone has to start somewhere.

Some things we know: Moscato is still a hot category (though trending down a little).

Argentinian Malbec continues strong (though the prime interest seems to now be in somewhat higher-end Malbec from more specific regions).

Inexpensive red blends – the white Zinfandel of modern times – continue strong. Pinot Noir remains mighty. Sparkling wine, especially Prosecco, is very popular and is definitely not just for celebrations anymore.

Dry rosé is gaining ground by leaps and bounds – no longer just a summer sipper.

New Zealand wines have shown the greatest growth in wine sales over the past year.

And Merlot – after 10 years in a comparative wasteland – is rebounding at all price points.

Since 2010 the U.S. has been the largest wine consuming nation. Today, about 93 million people in the U.S. are regular wine drinkers.

By 2025 we will have 104 million regular drinkers. The number of people drinking wine in this country has increased consecutively for the past 24 years. Although this past year has seen the least growth, much of that is due to wine drinkers who are also crossing over to other beverages, notably cider and craft beer. Currently women make up 56% of the total wine-drinking population in the U.S. But if we look only at millennial drinkers we find that women make up a whopping 66%.

wine journal | 66

Current trends seem to revolve around four major bullet points: • Wines that are true to their place of origin, their grape variety and their vintage • Climate change and sustainable (ecological) farming • The amazing growth of millennial wine drinkers • The positive growth in women who drink wine WHAT CAN WINE LOVERS LOOK FOR IN 2017?

A growth in single-vineyard and estate-grown wines. More and more, consumers are looking for wines that represent the terroir, the place where the grapes and the wine come from. Industrial farming is – except perhaps for the case of the big mega-monster wineries – on its way out.

Wine lovers are looking for more traditional techniques where most of the work is done in the vineyard. The use of local vineyard-produced yeast instead of commercial yeast is growing. And many winemakers are moving away from stainless steel fermentation tanks and are experimenting with the concrete vessels similar in concept to the ones that their grandfathers used.

Wines from newly planted vineyards usually in cooler regions. While some may overlook or deny climate change, grape growers have been aware of it for quite a few years and have already begun planting in areas they believe will be optimal in future decades.

Organic, sustainable and biodynamically farmed wines. While organic is the better known term and has many set rules to follow, sustainable farming is gaining in interest because, although it has few set rules, it is all about doing what is best for the complete eco-system. In a nutshell, organic is about the grape; sustainable is about every

thing. (Already, all wines coming out of New Zealand and South Africa are sustainably farmed.)

Fewer gigantic, in-your-face wines. The current trend is toward less overly-extracted wines with not so much oak and lower alcohol. This means not picking grapes that are over-ripe just to produce a monster wine, but picking when the grapes are truly ready and can offer fresher, livelier, less manipulated wine. Wines such as these work better at friendly gatherings and with food. Millennials often prefer to buy two bottles of wine with a lower alcohol level than one with a higher one. We will also see more of a return to classic style Pinot Noir, not ‘Pinot for Cab drinkers’ that is currently popular.

Less trophy hunting. Millennials are generally not committed to brands and there is much less interest in the trophy wines of yore. There is, however, a growth in sales of high-end boutique wines that are unique and interesting and have a story to tell.

Unusual varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay will remain big, but perhaps not quite so big. The new generation of wine drinkers are fascinated by lesser-known grape varieties. Look for wines made from Sémillon, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Tannat, Mourvèdre and especially Cabernet Franc.

Wine from lesser known places. Look for wines from Corsica, Sicily, Jura, Turkey, Croatia and Eastern Europe. The quality wines of South Africa are also gaining in appeal and recognition.

With these trends in mind it looks as if 2017 will be a real treat for wine lovers. We hope that some of these trends will inspire you to try wines you might not have had before and to challenge your own comfort zone. Great possibilities and a lot of fine wine lie ahead! o

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TEMPRANILLO Bargains from Spain JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

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textural intricacies aside (and to the thank-

Pesquera and Vega Sicilia. Finding outstand-

values both past and present. Surprised?

ful relief of wine professionals seeking to

ing value here can prove a challenge. Neo

Well unless you’ve been slumbering like ol’

identify it in a blind tasting), Tempranillo

Sentido ($17) is comprised of 100 percent

Rip Van Winkle recently, you’re already pen-

seemingly reveals itself where it counts most

Tinta del Pais, yet another name for the

nywise to the great bargain vibe these wines

with a telltale core of delicious cherry fruit.

Tempranillo grape variety. Neo Sentido

panish wines have often constituted good

frequently offer.

Look no further than to Tempranillo, the red grape of Spain, to deliver bigtime on this QPR (quality-to-price ratio) premise.

Let’s start our Tempranillo QPR hunt in Spain’s famous wine region of Rioja at the Bodegas Volver winemaker Rafael Cañizares

sports a deep ruby rim with black fruits and mocha on the nose. It’s very silky on the palate with cherry, chocolate and loamy earth. Winemaker Isaac Fernandez Montana sources fruit from dry-farmed bush-vine

Tempranillo is the most widely planted

parcels up to 60 years old, then ages the wine

red varietal in the country, but thanks in

for one year in a combination of new and

part to its many regional synonyms, it can

used French and American oak.

appear as a bit of a chameleon to the average wine consumer. Case in point: It’s known

Want a full-bodied red without a full-blown

as Tempranillo Peludo in Rioja, Tinto Fino

price tag? Look no further than the newest

in Ribera del Duero, Tinto de Toro in the

release from La Mancha producer Rafael

village of Toro, Cencibel in La Mancha and

Cañizares of Bodegas Volver, a top perform-

Ull de Llebre in Catalonia. It’s safe to say you’d be hard-pressed to find another wine grape hiding under so many different aliases outside of the Witness Protection Program.

But regardless of which disguise the Tempranillo grape adopts, there’s no hiding the flavorful charms of this early ripening variety (the name is derived from the Spanish word “temprano” – meaning “early”). It has an uncanny ability to channel itself aptly through the varied terroirs that it’s grown in, too. Tempranillo can be full and lush in warm Mediterranean appellations like La Mancha, but also supple and elegant in the cool Atlantic influenced environs of places like Rioja.

So it can be rich like a Merlot or delicate like Pinot Noir – sounds like the stealth ninja of the wine world! Even the grape’s ancestral origin is shrouded in mystery. Modern-day ampelographers have difficulty agreeing on whether it’s even native to Iberia, although it’s been documented to have existed in Spain since the 13th century. Historical and wine journal | 8

estate of CVNE (Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España). CVNE Cune is one of Rioja’s legendary producers, established in the historic village of Haro by the Asúa family in 1879. Cune Rioja Crianza ($12) is mostly Tempranillo with small portions of Garnacha and Mazuelo added for structure and complexity. Aged 12 months in American oak, it’s an elegant alternative to Pinot Noir with red cherry, violet, tobacco, spice box and mineral on the palate.

Further to the west, Ribera del Duero is home to many age-worthy yet often pricey wines from names like Dominio de Pingus,

er in the region. Adelfa Tempranillo ($17) is a full-bodied expression that explodes from the glass with crushed violets, black cherry compote, Asian spices, coffee and fig, leading to a long, mouth-filling finish.

Señor Cañizares also makes Torete Tempranillo ($8), a silky everyday sipper with fresh blackberry and plum on the palate.

Tempranillo is perfect to enjoy on its own but certainly makes for a versatile food wine.

It’s perfectly suited for chicken, beef and lamb, grilled vegetables, piquillo peppers, chorizo, tapas, Jamón Ibérico or Manchego cheese. o

Rioja Alta

The 2O16 French Libation Tour S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M

When I was asked to travel this past fall to

Haton property and even disgorged a bottle of

until the next issue! Until then, here is my

France for a week with a small group from

bubbly ourselves. Dinner left us all speechless.

review of this portion of the 2016 French

ABC, I couldn’t resist, as it has been a long two

Michelin-starred Hostellerie La Briqueterie

Libation Tour:

years since the last time I touched French soil.

(Google it, and please don’t be mad at me!) is

From my experience with trips to France, usu-

as fine as billed, with plenty of Champagne and

ally to Bordeaux in cold April for barrel tasting,

some old Cornas! Yes, I did order the pan fried

the days begin early, run late into the evenings

John Dory, and the cheese cart alone is worth

and don’t include lots of time to sleep or to

the price of admission!

digest. Some might call it work. I was in for a

“Opens with delicate aromas and flavors of Champagne, grabbing our attention and leaving us bubbling for more. The initial impression is immediately followed by flavors of the Southern Rhône, warm and fresh, like sipping rosé on the

Very early next morning, we packed up with

river side, with tapenade, of course. The flavors

heavy hearts and slightly heavy heads, and

then turn rugged and saline, with cool mountain

After a lovely airport dinner in Atlanta to cele-

boarded the TGV for Avignon. Twenty minutes

air and the lingering flavor of still warm sheep’s

brate a birthday, we were off to Paris. From de

after arriving, we were sipping rosé on the

milk cheese. This memorable journey in the

Gaulle we hopped the TGV to Reims, Cham-

banks of the Rhône overlooking the Pont Saint-

glass is perfect with a couple dozen fresh oysters

pagne. Immediately after checking in, we were

Bénézet (also known as Pont d’Avignon) and

plucked from the sea near Arcachon.

met by Jean Noel Haton and his lovely wife

the Palais des Papes. It’s sad the time slips by

Rosine. Within a few minutes were seated at

so quickly in such a beautiful place with such

Brasserie FLO and welcomed with a magnum

wonderful company. Lodging this evening was

of Dom Ruinart Champagne! Life was good!

at the breathtaking Château Gigognan, where,

surprise this time; the week was over, it seemed, before it even started!

After some much needed rest, we all met early the next morning for a guided tour of the cathedral at Reims. I have seen the cathedral a few times in the past, but having someone decode

So much complexity, so many layers, yet so unpretentious and enjoyable!” 100 pts, Shayne Hebert. o

after a tour of the vineyards on foot and a poolside nap, we grilled Côte de Boeuf and stayed up way too late with a few too many bottles of Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc!

the history was incredible! That could have last-

The morning bell rang way too soon and way

ed all day, but lunch was ready: a picnic above

too early, and by 6 am we were packed up and

the village of Hautvillers (think Dom Perignon)

ready for a drive to Marseilles for a quick flight

on the Montagne de Reims. What else needs to

to Corsica. That adventure will have to wait

be said? After lunch, we took a brief tour of the

wine journal | 9

VEUVE AMBAL

CRÉMANT

DE

BOURGOGNE

ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M

T

And yet, despite the struggle, the vines

Mousseux and were for the most part of

gogne or, for that reason, any other spar-

managed to produce grapes with almost

inconsistent quality which led to the es-

kling wine, we first need to set the record

perfect balance between sugar levels and

tablishment of strict regulations under the

straight on Champagne: No sparkling

acidity in 2016; the challenging climatic

new Crémant de Bourgogne appellation

wine could ever rival its greatness or

conditions are part of Champagne’s secret

in 1975.

challenge its place on the very top of the

to greatness.

o make the case for Crémant de Bour-

quality pyramid!

Crémant de Bourgogne is made today the same way as the sparkling wines of Cham-

Champagne remains unique in the world

pagne using the Traditional Method or

of bubbles for its geographical position,

Méthode Champenoise where the second-

climate and soil, and retains the title of the

ary fermentation takes place in the bottle

world’s best and most popular celebratory

and the wine is aged for minimum of nine

wine, synonymous with luxury, good life

months on the lees before disgorgement.

and festivities.

For those reasons Crémant de Bourgogne could be an alternative to Champagne and

Despite record sales and growing demand

with prices at around a third of those of

for Champagne world wide, the appella-

Champagne, Crémant de Bourgogne could

tion authorities, the Comité Interprofes-

be an everyday sparkler.

sionnel des Vins de Champagne (CIVC),

One of the ABC wine team’s most memo-

have set the maximum yield at 10 tons per

rable winery visits was to the Veuve Ambal

hectare for 2015, which puts the maximum allowable yields in Champagne at a 10-year

winery in Burgundy.

low. That doesn’t make much sense from

The Maison Marie Ambal was founded in

an economic point of view but confirms

the heart of the Burgundy wine-growing

the region’s commitment to quality and the highest industry standards, when other popular sparkling wine appellations are diluting quality by expanding production to unrealistic levels.

In 2016 there was no need to restrict yields

The rising Champagne sales are also driving the entire sparkling wine category to new record levels. Which of them comes the closest to the quality and style of Champagne? The answer (an opinion shared by most wine professionals) is

region by Marie Ambal. Marie was married to a Parisian banker; after his death she returned to her home village of Rully and, in 1898, started her own winery where she produced both red and white Champagne-method sparkling wines. The winery flourished to become one of Burgun-

in Champagne region, because Mother

Crémant de Bourgogne.

Nature did: Everything that could go

In fact, Burgundy borders the Cham-

wrong did in Champagne’s most difficult

pagne region to the south and shares the

growing season in almost 60 years, only to

same main grape varieties (Pinot Noir

be rescued by the most perfect conditions

and Chardonnay), and similar climate

at harvest time. Severe spring frosts,

and soil (white chalk). First attempts at

abundant rains from May through July,

producing sparkling wines in Burgundy

followed by hail storms in mid-July and

were made in the early 19th century in

Eric Piffaut, who is now assisted by his son

soaring temperatures in August brought

Nuits-Saint-Georges and Rully, where

Aurelien, has continued to maintain Veuve

the average yield to less than eight tons

the local white wines were particularly

Ambal’s dynamism through the quality

per hectare this year.

suited to this treatment. These wines were

of its wines and the performance of the

marketed under the appellation Bourgogne

production facilities. Through his efforts,

wine journal | 10

dy’s top names in sparkling wine. In 1929 the reins of the company were passed to her grandson Charles Roux-Ambal, who at his turn passed the baton to his grandson Eric Piffaut, the current managing director of Veuve Ambal.

Veuve Ambal has become the main

Veuve Ambal Brut – Crémant

producer and leading brand of Crémant

de Bourgogne, France, $14

de Bourgogne.

The Veuve Ambal Brut is made from Pinot

The brand new Veuve Ambal winery in

Noir, Chardonnay and Aligoté, bottle-fer-

Burgundy is large, ultramodern facility

mented. This cuvée has fruity and floral

equipped with the latest and greatest, state-

aromas with slight toasted hints and a

of-the-art vinification tools and robotics

bright finish. It’s a great everyday bubbly.

which allows the winery to maintain a very high level of quality in a large scale production.

And for those who like their bubbles not–too-dry-not-too-sweet, we have recently added the Veuve Ambal Crémant

Quality starts in the vineyard and here is

de Bourgogne Demi-Sec ($15), the extra

an interesting and very important fact,

dosage translating in just the right mellow

unknown to even some wine profession-

sweetness, making it perfect as an aperitif

als: All fruit for Crémant de Bourgogne is

or served at the end of a meal with

harvested by hand! This unprecedented

light desserts. o

restriction of machine harvesting is set by the Appellation (AOP Crémant de Bourgogne) and guarantees some of the highest quality standards in the industry.

The following three Crémants de Bourgogne from Veuve Ambal are currently available at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits: Veuve Ambal Prestige Brut , $20 Veuve Ambal’s Prestige Cuvée is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay aged 18-24 months.

It’s bottle-fermented like Champagne and shows a light golden color from the aging and notes of fresh flowers, toast and almonds with tiny bubbles and persistent effervescence.

wine journal | 11

WINE D OWN A FTER THE HOLIDAYS PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

W

ow! Are the holidays really over already?

Amarone and Valpolicella from their family

It’s hard to believe another year has flown by.

owned property. The Valpolicella has a ruby

I hope everyone had a fantastic season that

red color with a beautiful perfume of cherries,

included exuberant celebration and of course

plums and ginger. A great example of how good

sharing plenty of great wine with friends and

Valpolicella can be.

family. I personally almost never have a problem finding an occasion to celebrate and the holidays provide me with the perfect backdrop

Since 1890 the Tessari family has been making

to open some of my most treasured bottles.

wines at its La Cappuccina estate in the heart

However, now it’s time to “wine down” and return to reality. Unfortunately, my wine budget doesn’t allow me to drink well-aged Barolo and Brunello every night. That of course doesn’t mean I’m going to all of a sudden start drinking plonk on a daily basis. In fact, just the opposite is true. Savvy shoppers know that Italy is a treasure trove of delicious, affordable, food-friendly wines that make for great everyday drinking.

Exceptional examples of Italian wine values are not limited to reds but since we are in the midst

of the Soave Classico D.O.C. zone. While the majority of the wine produced here is white, the red wines are a terrific value that should not be overlooked. Madego is a Bordeaux style blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, with medium body and a fragrant bouquet of red berries, herbaceous notes and well-integrated oak. As an additional bonus, all of the La Cappuccina wines are 100% organically produced.

Racemi Giravolta ($19)

of winter I thought I would focus on just vino

Winemaker/owner of Racemi, Gregory Perrucci

rosso. The following is a short list of some of my

is one of Puglia’s most innovative personalities.

personal favorites guaranteed to over-deliver on

He has made it his life’s mission to showcase the

the price-to-quality ratio.

region’s native grape varieties to international

La Gerla Sangiovese ($17)

markets. His Giravolta Primitivo di Manduria is a rich, supple red with a complex nose of

Sangiovese is Italy’s most abundant red variety

raspberry coulis, mocha and licorice. Primitivo

and is the only grape used to produce the

doesn’t get any better than this.

celebrated wine, Brunello di Montalcino.

Winemaker Alberto Passeri produces world-

Chionetti Dolcetto San Luigi ($22)

class Brunello at La Gerla but his everyday

I had the great privilege of meeting the legend-

Sangiovese is delicious as well. With notes of red

ary winemaker Quinto Chionetti. Sadly, Quinto

cherries, berries and violets this lip-smacking

passed away last fall at 90 years young. He left

red wine is sure to please.

the reigns of the winery in the capable and tal-

Nicolis Valpolicella Classico ($14)

ented hands of his grandson Nicola Chionetti.

This wine is not just a sentimental favorite but is

Valpolicella is one of Italy’s most famous wines,

an outstanding example of a uniquely gratifying

however if the wine is not produced in the hilly

Italian Red. Aromas of raspberries, crushed

classic zone it is often uninspiring at best. That

flowers, licorice and cinnamon. A beautifully

is not the case with the historic Nicolis winery.

expressive wine that is impossible not to love. o

For generations they have produced prized wine journal | 12

La Cappuccina Madego ($13)

Ravishing Riesling DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM

I

f I gave an award to the most underappreciated grape variety, Riesling

would certainly be my top candidate. Written off as being too basic and too sweet, Riesling often gets overlooked. Yes, a lot of Rieslings are sweet, some are rather basic, and yes, it is a grape variety that does appeal to novice wine drinkers. There is nothing wrong with that.

I tasted were quite dry—they had the proper acidity to balance the sweetness making it less obvious, which is the key to quality Riesling.

Second, when it comes to quality, Riesling offers excellent bang for the buck. ABC Fine Wine & Spirits currently carries a selection of wines from one of Germany’s top producers, Thanisch. QBA Riesling ($17), Bad-

Unfortunately for the wine enthusiasts out there who have written off

stube Kabinett ($19) and world-renowned Berncasteler Doctor Kabinett

this grape variety, they are missing out on what many believe to be one

($30) all represent some of the finest values in white wine you’ll find on

of the most noble and finest white wine varieties eclipsing even the likes

the shelves at ABC!

of Chardonnay. And as you have probably guessed, I am one of

And while Germany certainly gets the top honor for quality Rieslings,

these people.

there are other regions worth checking out as well. In the United States,

First, I could make the argument that Riesling is the very best wine to pair

the New York Finger Lakes region makes some outstanding examples,

with a meal. At its pinnacle of quality, Riesling has a bright, refreshing

many rivaling the best of Germany. Two of my favorites, Fox Run ($14)

acidity that balances the natural sweetness of the wine and a lower alcohol

and Wagner ($19) are both semi-dry Rieslings that would pair beauti-

content to make it a perfect pairing with a variety of foods, particularly

fully with roasted chicken or grilled mahi with a mango chutney.

those with exotic flavor profiles. Do you enjoy Thai, Indian or Japanese

No discussion of domestic Rieslings would be complete without men-

cuisine? What about spicy food? Grilled seafood? How about fried chicken?

tioning Chateau Ste Michelle, America’s largest and best producer of this

All would be accompanied beautifully by Riesling thanks to that balance

variety. Their Eroica ($27) has long been considered the best domestic dry

of acidity, sweetness and lower alcohol.

Riesling made, and their basic Columbia Valley bottling ($9) along with its

“But Dave,” you say. “I do not care for sweet wines, so I wouldn’t like Riesling.” Granted, the majority of the Rieslings available in the American

dry counterpart ($9) may be the best sub-$10 Rieslings made anywhere in the world.

market are what most wine drinkers would consider sweet. But would you

Next time you need a wine to pair with a delicious meal, I encourage

believe that the majority of the Rieslings made worldwide are actually less

you to consider Riesling. I am confident that you’ll find the character-

sweet? In fact, on a trip to Germany back in 2010, many of the Rieslings

istics that define quality Riesling highly enjoyable and of great value. o

wine journal | 13

AN INTERVIEW WITH KELLEY STYRING DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

R

met Steve shortly after that. I introduced

to talk about the Styring Winery. Kelley

him to wine on our first date, and it was

and her husband Steve went from two

a terrible Côtes-du-Rhône, but he forgave

excellent jobs in Dallas, Texas, to owning

me and married me anyway.

ecently I sat down with Kelley Styring

and managing a winery in Oregon with

DE: And yet very modern.

KS: Yes, and yet very modern. We had a really wonderful accidental meeting with David Teppola, who founded Laurel Ridge winery in the Willamette,

no experience beyond their shared love

by stumbling into his tasting room after

of wine and a desire to spend more time

a long day with our two grumpy kids.

with their two children and with each

David was pouring, which is actually

other. During our conversation it became

quite rare. Steve said to him, “You know,

clear that they really love what they do

if I could do what you’re doing, I would

and imbue their wine with the “spirit

quit my job tomorrow.” And David said,

of craft” as well as committing to their

“What’s stopping you?” It was five o’clock

form of “practical sustainability”

and he locked the doors, and we talked

in a business that is truly all about

for three hours and we walked out with

the family.

an apprenticeship. Unbeknownst to us, DE: There you go, destiny.

KS: How we arrived at winemaking was a little more circuitous. In our early

David had terminal cancer and he passed away about two years later, so we think in a lot of ways he was passing on his craft to Steve.

40s we wanted to create a home-based family business, where we would stop choosing between work and family. We took a fortuitous family vacation in the Oregon wine country. We really just fell in love with the wine culture, with the idea of farming where you might actually Dan Eddy: So you and your husband founded the winery?

Kelley Styring: Yes, we’ve been married for 30 years and we’ve been winemaking for 13 of those, so we started at a very different place in our lives. Wine has always been a central focus of our family life, in a way. I discovered fine French wine accidentally, on a trip during college to France and discovered that fine wine doesn’t have to be expensive wine.

I kind of developed a love of red wine at that point, in my early 20s and then

be able to support your family. We had to redefine our net worth from having a great salary and a good job, to having an abundance of time. What we lose in income, we make up for in quality of life “the spirit of craft” in both of us—and a

DE: Already you seem to be attracted to Oregon over California.

little bit of entrepreneurialism. If we sold

KS: Yeah, I think it was a couple of

and richness. This sparked what I call

everything we own and clean-sheeted our life, is this the kind of life that we want to have? And the answer was a very strong yes! But how do you unravel a very complex, contemporary life and create something that is a little bit retro, a little bit different?

wine journal | 14

things. One was affordability. Even with the resources that we had there was no way we could afford California, it’s so premium. We liked good wine, so where else is there good wine? After doing research, we found the Ribbon Ridge area,

OF STYRING WINERY

and we liked the schools, the warmth of

up to a year after it’s bottled, because we

the people here, but I think the biggest

think it should taste good now and great

difference is that we are 40 to 50 years

later. We don’t like to say, “Taste this

behind California, so it’s a difference of

wine, and imagine it will taste great in

time. I think there is still a lot of craft

a couple of years.” It’s just not right.

here. There’s collaboration, there’s cooperation, there’s love.

DE: What is special about the Ribbon Ridge AVA?

DE: Which leads us to the difference in your wines and winemaking?

KS: Ribbon Ridge is very small and is

KS: We really focus on craft. Part of our

The soil is marine sedimentary, which

success is a theme of sacrifice, which

means it’s finely textured and while it

a very interesting terrain to begin with.

leads to the results that we have. Pinot

KS: Exactly. Why would we poison

holds water, it’s not very nutrient rich.

will push out about 40 clusters and in

ourselves? It would be silly. However, we

Both of those things are fantastic for

are not organic, we practice what we call

Pinot Noir and Riesling, so we settled on

“practical sustainability” which is a term

planting those two. We focused on work-

we invented, because the organic contin-

ing with the land rather than against it.

gent has rules that we think are wasteful.

We appreciate organic farming, because I think it does help to keep things clean, it keeps our watershed clean, it keeps our air clean, but it has impractical rules.

Biodynamic, I think is still yet to be

DE: How is it working with your family?

Your husband is the winemaker.

KS: It’s almost like living with a songwriter that writes songs just for you.

It’s great! o

proven, and for some people the power in it is their belief and that it centers their June we drop about half of that. We also hang long and by hanging long we lose tonnage to birds and rot. We’re minimalists in the area of any kind of spraying, so we use sulfur and orange oil, which is an organic way of treating for powdery mildew. We don’t treat for anything else.

DE: So you are in line with organic and biodynamic practices?

KS: We are very principle-based, so one of our principles was that we have little kids and we live here.

DE: You don’t want to expose them to dangerous chemicals.

life with the land and the wine and their

Styring Signature Pinot Noir, Oregon $32

synergy. I support that, but I don’t do

Aromas of pepper and

that. Almost every step in our process is sustainable, through composting, recycling and reusing. All of the garbage from the winery is just cheese wrappers, and that fits into our family trashcan.

spice lead into juicy berries and cherry.

Lush finish with touch of espresso.

DE: Therefore, you focus on the quality of your wines in a number of ways.

KS: Yes, we also barrel for a long time, from 14 to 18 months. So I can’t empty those barrels to refill each harvest. So there is lot of structure based around sacrifice, which is also why you are pouring 2012 right now. We cellar the wine for wine journal | 15

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

W INE

TO

WATCH:

Block 1029 Cabernet Sauvignon AROMA :

DARK BERRY, MOCHA AND VANILLA F LAVO R :

Blueberry, blackberry, roasted chocolate, vanilla, graphite BO DY:

Full

wine journal | 16

C O L O R:

DEEP RED

F I N I S H:

Concentrated and silky RE GI O N :

Columbia Valley, Washington PA I R

WI TH: