Wine Journal May/June 2016

wine journal May/Ju ne 2016

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

Cava cocktails might be your summer sip!

Secrets to a flawless cheeseboard

Must love dogs

(to work at Shannon Ridge)

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!

“I drink red wine on ice to water it down.”

Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Heather Burton East Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list.

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abcfws.com wine journal | A

- Diane Keaton dogs of Shannon 3 The Ridge are as cute as

5 6 8 9

they are essential.

Learn the wine tasting basics!

Region spotlight: Chile & Argentina These wines are in their prime, so sip now for peak flavor!

Italian whites to heavily consider for pool and beach sessions.

10 12 13 14 16

Cheese. Enough said.

Cava is the new Champagne, and it makes to-die-for cocktails.

Dad’s day is better with wine.

The mother lode of Mother’s Day wines.

Wine to Watch: Flegenheimer Bros.

‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz

The Dogs of Shannon Ridge DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

I

remember driving up the Shannon Ridge

weeks. He places the puppies with a few

vineyards five years ago (a trip purposed

sheep in a corral until the dogs are about six

to explore sustainable wine production) in

months old, then they are fully integrated

Clay Shannon’s tractor-led bench wagon. It

into the vineyards.

was a beautiful, sunny day and the conversation flowed from the fruit and the climate, to the sheep and finally to the sheep dogs.

Clay’s endearing name for his sheep, his “little wooly compost machines,” speaks to their importance. They are the epitome of sustainability and have been an integral part of the process for the past eight years.

The ranch can be tough on these dogs, and it’s really very sad. They live outside with the sheep and aren’t supposed to bond with people. Last year Clay lost a few dogs: one to a fight with another dog, one to a rattlesnake bite and one to infection. The dogs I met five years ago have changed, also signifying a shift from Anatolian Sheep Dogs to Great

The sheep were not in the vineyard on this

Pyrenees and Border Collies.

particular day. They are only in the vine-

“Currently we have Jack, he is part Anatolian

yards at certain times of the year, or they might eat the first buds. My visit was in late spring so the sheep were in their other pastures waiting for the final harvest before they are brought in to clean up all the leafy debris after the grapes are picked. The dogs

and Great Pyrenees, Pearl is Great Pyrenees, and Cricket and Lad are Border Collies.”

They are an investment in time and money but mostly an investment in love, so loss is especially brutal. Even though they are not as “bonded” to humans as the typical house

are their constant companions from birth.

pet, these dogs are warm, loving and have

Across a verdant field, we could see a mass

no fear of the people that work and visit the

of white puffs. The Anatolian sheep dogs

vineyards. These breeds are protectors,

noticed us first, and with a whistle from

not hunters.

Clay they bounded over. I could tell that Clay, a true cowboy in the classic sense of the word, noted which among us were not frightened by his adored canines, as if we had passed a test.

The next glass of Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red ($11) you sip, know that real cowboys make the wine. Sustainability may be a buzzword of late, but it has been Clay Shannon’s commitment for over a decade.

In the beginning he reached out to other

That care comes through in his wines, so

sheep farmers all over the world. He needed

check out Shannon Ridge, Vigilance, Cross

breeds that could handle some of the dangers

Springs and his newer line, High Valley. All

of Northern California like coyotes and

are great wines with Napa quality, but not

mountain lions, so size mattered. He looked

the Napa price. Most noticeably, they exhibit

first to a Spanish breed, the Anatolian Sheep

the beauty of Lake County. Shannon Ridge’s

Dog. The dogs don’t require much human

Buck Shack Red ($20) is a great one to toast

training per se, just time, since sheep herd-

the amazing dogs that protect the sheep that

ing is a natural part of their breeding. Clay

nourish the vineyard. One sip and you’ll

gets most of the dogs as puppies and begins

get a sense of how interconnected all of this

integrating them with the sheep around 12

winemaking really is. o wine journal | 3

WINE LIST RED

WHITE

Cascina Chicco Barbera d’Alba 2013 ‘Granera Alta’ (p 13)

Cascina Chico Arneis (p 9)

BORDEAUX

Domaine Gueguen Chablis (p 11)

BARBERA

Carruades de Lafite 2010 (p 8) Duhart-Milon Rothschild 2010 (p 8) Secret de Cardinale 2012 St. Émilion (p 13)

MALBEC

Santa Julia Reserva Malbec (p 11)

PETIT SIRAH

Flegenheimer Petite Sirah 2013 (p 13)

PORT

Fonseca Vintage Port 2011 (p 8)

RED BLEND

Owen Sullivan ‘16th Street Bridge’ (p 13) Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red (p 3) Shannon Ridge Buck Shack Red (p 3) RIOJA La Tercera 2010 Rioja Reserva (p 13)

SANGIOVESE

ARNEIS

CHABLIS

CHARDONNAY

Pellegrini Chardonnay Russian River (p 11)

FALANGHINA

Tenuta Cavalier Pepe ‘Lila’ Falanghina (p 9)

GRECO

Ippolito Ciro Bianco (p 9)

ORVIETO

Le Velette Orvieto (p 9)

PINOT GRIGIO

Storico Pinot Grigio (p 11)

SOAVE

La Cappuccina Fontego Soave (p 9)

SAUTERNES

Château Climens 2005 (p 8) Le Petit Guiraud 2012 (p 14)

La Gerla Gli Angeli Sangiovese (p 11) Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino VERDICCHIO 2009 (p 8) Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (p 9)

SHIRAZ

Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz (p 11, 16)

VERMENTINO Santa Maria Palma Vermentino Blu (p 9)

SUPER TUSCAN

VERNACCIA Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano (p 9, 11)

Antinori Solaia 2009 (p 8) Antinori Solaia 2010 (p 8)

ROSÉ

Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé (p 11) Pulse Grapefruit Rosé (p 15)

VOUVRAY Chateau Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec (p 15)

SPARKLING

Dominio de la Peseta Cava Brut (p 12) Mas Vida Cava Brut (p 12) Murviedro Luna Cava Brut (p 12)

wine journal | 4

HOW TO TASTE W INE H E AT H E R B U R T O N • @ A B C W I N E H E AT H E R B • H E AT H E R B @ A B C F W S .C O M

Enjoying wine that you like and appreciating

evaluate the “look” of your wine: check out

wine that you don’t like requires the same

the color, opacity and viscosity (wine legs).

thing: the skill of tasting. The more you fine-

This evaluation should only take 5 seconds.

tune your sensory abilities, the better you are able to understand and enjoy the nuances and details that great wines express.

Now the swirling that you did a bit earlier has had the chance to aerate the wine in your glass. Aeration is necessary to release sulfur

While there is no one right or wrong way

dioxide, aldehydes and esters. Once the wine

to learn how to taste wine, some “rules” do

has aerated, you can actually smell the aroma

apply. First and foremost, take a minute to

and bouquet. Try and pick out at least two

evaluate the surroundings of your wine

aromas and take your time identifying them.

tasting experience that may affect your impressions of the wine. For instance, a noisy

There are 3 types of wine aromas:

or crowded room makes concentration diffi-

• Primary aromas come from grapes and

cult. Cooking smells, perfume and even pet

include fruit, herb and flower notes.

odor can destroy your ability to get a clear sense of a wine’s aromas. A glass that is too small, has the wrong shape, smells of dish

• Secondary aromas come from fermentation and yeast.

soap or has a layer of dust in it can also affect

• Tertiary bouquets come from aging,

the wine’s flavor.

oxidation and oak; these are often

The temperature of the wine will also have an impact on your impression, as will the

described as being similar to baking spices, nuts and vanilla.

age of the wine and any residual flavors from

To assess the taste of the wine you must

whatever else you’ve been eating or drinking.

evaluate the two elements that make up

You want to neutralize the tasting condi-

the palate: flavor and structure.

tions as much as possible, so the wine has a

• Flavors such as lemon, blackberry

fair chance to stand on its own. If a wine is served too cold, warm it with your hands by cupping the bowl. If a glass seems musty, give

or vanilla.

• Structure has to do with the level of

any characteristics that stood out and impressed you? Surely, you’ll encounter a wide

it a quick rinse with wine, not water, swirling

sweetness, body, alcohol, acidity and tannins.

it around to cover all the sides of the bowl.

• Profile tastes can also be time-based;

and other flavors, and if you’ve done your

there is a beginning, middle (mid-palate)

sniffing homework, most flavors will follow

and end (finish).

right along where the aromas left off. Aside

This is called conditioning the glass. Finally, if there are strong aromas nearby—especially perfume—walk as far away from them as you can and try to find some neutral air.

Now, let’s taste.

First, give the wine in your glass a good swirl around. Be careful, this does take practice.

If you are new at this, use the top of a table nearby to help steady your swirl. Next

Take a sip (not a large swallow) and try sucking on it like you’re pulling it through a straw—I definitely suggest practicing this at home first. Ignore the stares of those around you; this simply aerates the wine and circulates it throughout your mouth. Did the wine taste balanced or out of balance? Was this wine unique or unmemorable? Were there

range of fruit, flower, herb, mineral, barrel

from simply identifying flavors, you are also using your palate to determine if the wine is balanced, harmonious, complex, evolved and complete. Remember that practice makes perfect, and the time and effort invested in palate training is rewarding… and very, very fun. o wine journal | 5

A Visit to CHILE & ARGENTINA BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

L

The wines were, generally speaking, excellent.

Santiago de Chile, and with only about two

Elegant Cabernet Sauvignon without the

hours sleep under our belts, we hit the ground

green, vegetal quality sometimes found in

running. A private bus was waiting there to

Chilean wine. Crisp Sauvignon Blanc with

rush us off to the Colchagua Valley and in less

a true sense of minerality. Carménère that

than three hours we had wine glasses in hand

showed us what this misunderstood grape is

and, along with about 20 other wine people

really about. Pinot Noir and Syrah with real

from around the world, were taking part in

character and Cabernet Franc that forced us

a power tasting with Bordeaux legend

to collectively wonder why Chilean Cabernet

François Lurton.

Franc wasn’t on everyone’s lips.

We were there to join in the 20th anniversary

François Lurton is indeed a pioneer in the

celebrations of Lurton’s Chilean property, Ha-

field of wine. From the earliest days he has

cienda Araucano. The winery and most of the

been a staunch advocate of screwcaps. In fact,

vineyards are located in an interesting subdivi-

he stands against much of today’s received

sion of Colchagua called the Lolol Valley. Lolol

knowledge that screwcaps are for young wines

is located 43 km (26 miles) from the Pacific

and cork is still the safest way to go for wines

Ocean and average temperatures are generally

that age. Screwcaps, he insists, are the perfect

cooler than the rest of the area, which allows

closure for wines that need to age, and if cork

for more elegant wines and is what Lurton was

is used at all it should be for young wines. To

looking for when he first explored this area.

prove his point, in an unplanned exercise, he

anding early on a Friday morning in

poured for us two glasses of an old wine from

François Lurton

Lunch at Araucano

Lolol Valley from Francois Lurton’s home

wine journal | 66

the same vintage, one that had been aged with

kind of caring shines through their wine as

a cork enclosure and one with a screwcap. The

well. It goes without saying that their Malbec

differences were mind-boggling. The wine

– at all levels and price-points – is something

from the cork bottle was beginning to break

special. But as fine as it is, and as popular as it

down and tasted a little tired, while the same

is internationally, it would be nice to see some

wine from a screwcap bottle was fresh and

of Argentina’s other well-deserving varieties

well-structured.

gain acceptance worldwide. We were very

With José Alberto Zuccardi and “Santa” Julia

impressed with Zuccardi’s Tempranillo, which That evening we attended the anniversary

can easily stand up to the Riojas and Ribera del

party at François Lurton’s home overlooking

Dueros of Spain. Bonarda is also an impressive

the Lolol Valley. There were a number of local

grape variety in Argentina. And of course their

winery owners there, a lot of French friends,

white Torrontés is that crisp, aromatic white

World Press and our little group of five Ameri-

that so many of us are looking for.

cans. We sipped some excellent wine, talked of many things and danced the night away to the

On our second day we took a trip out to Paraje

very wee hours.

Altamira in the Uco Valley where we attended a seminar – one of the best we’ve ever sat

The next day was a delightful lunch outdoors

through – on ‘terroir.’ Terroir is something we

and of course, some more wine. Afterward we

all thought we understood, but soon found

took a walk through the vineyards and had

that we had so much to learn. In a nutshell,

a fascinating seminar on organic and biody-

terroir is about uniqueness. It is about the

namic winemaking, for this is another one of

natural qualities that make a wine in a certain

François Lurton’s longtime pioneering beliefs.

area unique. It is not a question of the wine of

“Biodynamic agriculture helps our vineyards

one area being better or worse than another.

develop in harmony with nature,” he says,

It is a question of allowing the area’s unique-

“without any use of chemicals, thus encourag-

ness to shine through.

ing the vines to nourish themselves naturally.”

Some of it sounds like mumbo-jumbo at first,

From there we went to Zuccardi’s brand new

but beneath it are some very sound principles.

facility – not quite operational yet – in the Uco

And the results are always delicious!

Valley which is known as Piedra Infinita (In-

Peruvian-style Pisco Sour

finite Stone). Even to someone who has spent A few days later we were on the other side of

years visiting wineries, this facility was breath-

the Andes, in Argentina, visiting the iconic

taking in its presentation and its capability.

Zuccardi Family Wines estate along with

Here we took part in a tour and tasting with

their sister-venture Bodega Santa Julia. Let us

winemaker Laura Principiano, after which we

first say something about the word ‘family’ in

became the first American guests to lunch at

Zuccardi Family Wines. Spending a few days

their brand new restaurant, not yet open to the

with the Zuccardis we quickly became aware

public. And if you know anything about the

of a sense of ‘family.’ It is a sense of caring

cuisine of Argentina, then you can begin to

and sharing that radiates out from the heart

know how delicious that meal was.

Empanadas!

of their own family to their co-workers, their guests and visitors, and to the people in the

All in all, it was a fascinating trip that whet

community. The Zuccardi Family are setting

our appetite to explore and discover more

up a network of schools, libraries, gyms and

about the wine, the cuisine, the culture and

social centers, not just for the people that work

the people of these two great wine-producing

for them in the vineyards but for everyone lo-

countries. They should indeed be much

cally who has the need for these facilities; that

better known. o wine journal | 7

Primetime Wines BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER

W

hen is a wine ready for primetime? Or rather, when is it in its prime? It depends upon the wine. Most

wines are meant to be enjoyed within a year or two of release, but some of the world’s great wines age for decades to develop a deeper complexity. These wines are sometimes hard to find, but when you do, the first sip will pull you down into a world of subtleties, flavor, balance and mm, mm deliciousness. Here are a few wines ready for primetime that are available in select ABC locations.

Château Climens 2005 – Barsac, Bordeaux, France, $70 (375mL)

Carruades de Lafite 2010–

“Toffee, dried lemon rind and tropical fruit on the

“The wine displays much of the same lead pencil,

nose. Full-bodied and very sweet, with a dense palate

charcoal and black currant notes of its bigger sister,

of candied fruit and a long, sweet finish. Very con-

although it is forward, precocious and far less struc-

centrated. The botrytis spice creeps up on the finish.

tured than the grand vin. Nevertheless, this wine,

Best after 2013.” 95 points, Wine Spectator

which can be drunk now, will cellar beautifully for

Fonseca Vintage Port 2011 – Portugal, $90

at least 20-25 more years.” 94 points,

Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, $315*

“The Fonseca 2011 is typically more forthcoming on

The Wine Advocate

the nose compared to the bashful Croft: a strident bouquet with lifted scents of freshly picked blackberries,

Duhart-Milon Rothschild 2010 – Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, $150

kirsch, crushed stone and a dash of Hoi Sin and

“Dense purple, with classic notes of cedar and lead

oyster sauce. It is very well-defined, very focused and

pencil shavings as well as gobs of black currants and

direct. The palate is silky smooth with not a rough

licorice, the wine has a full-bodied mouthfeel with

edge in sight, though not a typically voluptuous

precision and density. It also possesses a long, silky

Fonseca because of the keen thread of acidity and

finish with moderately high tannins, but they are

the structure that lends this mighty Port wonderful

ripe and well-integrated. The wood is clearly pushed

backbone. A slight viscosity on the finish lacquers

to the background in this dense, full-bodied Pauillac,

the tongue and indicates a core of sweet fruit is

which should drink beautifully for 30+ years.” 96

ticking away underneath that will surely explode

points, The Wine Advocate

several years after bottling.” 97-99 points,

Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2009 – Tuscany, Italy, $50

The Wine Advocate Antinori Solaia 2010– Tuscany, Italy, $200* “A dense, powerful red, with a good lashing of oak, this evokes black currant, blackberry and spice flavors.

Finds equilibrium with air, gaining suppleness and finishing long and complex. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2016

“Wild sage, juniper and eucalyptus notes pick up some cherry accents in this lean, chewy red.

Well-proportioned, with a firm, sinewy finish, this has character and should come together with a little time. Best from 2016 through 2024.” 90 points, Wine Spectator o

through 2028.” 93 points, Wine Spectator *These wine prices end in 8 and are therefore ineligible for further discounts, including our $10 off $100 wine offer and $2 Rewards.

wine journal | 8

Italian Whites for Floridian Summers PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

I

t’s been said that there are no guarantees in

the Orvieto we see in the U.S. tends to be a

life except death. Here in sunny, sub-tropical

bland, pedestrian wine. In the hands of

South Florida, we have a more optimistic out-

quality producer such as Le Velette Orvieto

look. One thing that is a given in South Florida

is transformed into a wine that is anything

is that by this time of year our beautiful, balmy

but ordinary. The Le Velette Orvieto, ($12), is

weather is gone until (at least) November…

clean and dry with pleasant acidity and peach notes.

And that’s OK. The heat and humidity gives us an excuse to slow down, spend some time around blue water and rethink what we’re pouring into our glasses. It’s never been a better time to stock the wine rack and the fridge with some crisp, vibrant Italian white wines.

SOAVE: Once one of the most popular imported wines in the U.S., Soave fell into disfavor as its commercial success led producers to quantity at the expense of quality. La Cappuccina has worked diligently to counter this negative perception. The single vineyard La Cappuccina

Before I lose everyone who thinks this going to

Fontego Soave, ($12), is the flagship wine of

be another article about Pinot Grigio, have no

the estate. Golden delicious apples, hazelnuts,

fear. Italy offers an enormous array of intriguing

citrus and white flowers are found in this

white wines that are both thought-provoking

complex, age-worthy wine.

and pleasurable. These lesser-known varietals are just intriguing enough to keep you satisfied and delicious enough for you to fall in love.

VERDICCHIO, VERMENTINO & VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO: Yes, these are three different wines but I couldn’t

ARNEIS: One of my favorite new wines from

decide between them so you get all three.

the Piemonte region, the Cascina Chicco

Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di

Arneis, ($23), offers notable complexity with

Jesi, ($11), is a mouthful of words and wine.

white peach, mint and minerals.

This crisp, dry wine from the Marches region

CIRO BIANCO: Produced from 100% Greco Bianco, this white varietal was brought to Calabria by the ancient Greeks. The Ippolito Ciro Bianco, ($12), is a brilliant lemon-green colored wine with aromas of peaches and citrus fruits. Undertones of fresh cut herbs and flowers round out the taste profile.

of central Italy is ideally matched with a plate of seafood. Vermentino is grown all around the Mediterranean coastline but really excels on the island of Sardinia. The Santa Maria Palma Vermentino Blu, ($13), is another wine sure to improve any seafood dish you might serve with it. Mormoraia Vernaccia, ($18), is a new addition from the enchanted

FALANGHINA: Falanghina is a grape variety

Tuscan town of San Gimignano

that has found its best expression in the volca-

and is one of the best examples

nic soils in the Campania region of Italy. The

of Vernaccia I have tasted. o

wine Tenuta Cavalier Pepe ‘Lila’ Falanghina, ($12), is an aromatic offering with lively acidity and a real sense of place from the unique soil.

ORVIETO: Orvieto never seems to get the attention it deserves; partly because much of

wine journal | 9

Secrets to a Well-crafted Cheeseboard (and the kick-butt wines to pair with)

ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM

E

veryone has an inner Ina Garten.

2. BREAD, CRACKERS AND SPREADS

I don’t care who you are, or what walk of

This will serve as the anchor for your palate.

life you come from, an evening filled with

Crackers and bread are the blank canvases

SECRET #3: Cover cheeses in a damp towel to keep them from drying out too much, which can alter flavor.

lip-smacking wines, a laden cheeseboard,

cheese flavors bounce off of. Think bread

and hearty laughter tickles everyone’s fancy.

4. SALTY, SWEET AND CURED

sticks for height, toasted baguettes for

This is where your briny olives, cured meats

spreads, and crackers for crunch. Remember

and candied/spiced nuts come in. Olives are

that the carbs here are to showcase the

a staple on a cheeseboard, but if you want to

flavors of the cheese and wine together, so

turn this course into a meal you could add

simple flavors like cracked pepper and sea

prosciutto, salami, genoa and other cured

salt always work.

meats. The nuts provide some extra crunch

SECRET #2: Cheese should always be served at room temperature, so letting the cheese breathe for 30-45 minutes after taking from the refrigerator is a good idea.

and can be used to echo flavors in the chees-

Since you’ve suddenly come across a craving for the fancy-schmancy, why not take a stab at a cheeseboard? It can’t be done wrong (because cheese can’t be wrong), and it’s a fun excuse to try some new wines and entertain friends.

1. THE BOARD AND THE CHEESE When most people craft a cheeseboard, they focus on hitting all the flavor bases: sharp, nutty, creamy, fresh and funky. Instead, focus more on hitting these bases: aged, young, goat and blue. You do want a healthy representation of sharp, nutty, creamy, fresh and funky, but if you’re not a cheesemonger you

go on can be anything solid, from wood to marble to glass to ceramic. Cake stands and cutting boards also make great cheeseboards!

If you don’t have special cheese knives, just pair one butter knife per cheese.

SECRET #4: The board should be arranged (and eaten) from mild to strong, left to right or clockwise. Make sure there is space between stinky cheeses and mild cheeses; odor (and flavor) can and will transfer easily!

This part is easy… garnish with herbs!

flavors right off the bat.

The actual board that the cheeses and treats

almonds would pair perfectly with that!).

5. GARNISH FOR AESTHETICS

might not know what cheeses exhibit these SECRET #1: Unwrap cheeses to let them breathe and “open up” just like you would a wine.

es (got an espresso dusted Cheddar? Cocoa

Choose edible greenery to fill empty spaces around the board.

If you want to add another level of complex flavor and beauty to your board, consider some spreads. Bacon jam, olive tapenade, red pepper jelly, fruity marmalades, Sierra Nevada mustards and honey are great candidates. Or just go for a chunk of honeycomb; its rustic look will have your board

SECRET #5: Each person will eat about 6 ounces of cheese, so buy according to how many people will be in attendance to make sure everyone gets a bite!

Once you gather your cheese it’s time to think about the wines.

screaming “I’m Barefoot Contessa’s

Our Wines to Watch are expert selections

best friend.”

that exhibit an unparalleled sense of place.

try, style or age. In the beginning, though,

3. FRUIT

They maintain heightened personality and

it’s always more fun to experiment with all

Fresh and dried, it’s always good to think

styles and flavors.

about season with fruit. Since we’re embarking

Once you’ve done this a few times, you can begin to build boards based on region, coun-

on summer, mandarins, cherries, apricots, strawberries, cantaloupe and blueberries will be at their freshest. You can never go wrong with candied lemons! Oh, and wrap some prosciutto around the cantaloupe (it’s to die for). wine journal | 10

hail from distinct coordinates. These wines aren’t just ABC’s newest wines, they are the wines that might just be the world’s next favorite. o

W I N E S

T O

W A T C H

Domaine Gueguen Chablis, $19

Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano, $18

Pair with soft, creamy cheeses like

This citrusy, refreshing wine belongs with

an aged Brie or a Jarlsberg.

semisoft, washed-rind, young cheeses like

Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz, $15

Taleggio. This Italian cheese has a robust aroma with a tangy fruit flavor.

This wine calls for a cheese that can tango

Santa Julia Reserva Malbec, $13

with its spice, such as Extra Sharp Cheddar

Seek out funky, umami-heavy cheeses for

or Gouda.

Malbec. This particular wine would do well

Pellegrini Chardonnay Russian River, $22

with soft to semi-firm cow and sheep milk

You could go the typically creamy Brie

cheese like Cashel blue or Manchego.

route here, but a goat Alpine Shepard

Storico Pinot Grigio, $10

cheese will really dance with this wine.

Storico’s Pinot Grigio is super fruity and

Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé, $17

crisp, so a delicate, slightly tangy and

Because this is a drier style of rosé, pair with rich cheeses like goat, Mahon (a Spanish

somewhat salty cheese like Asiago Fresco would go very well. Or try a nutty, grassy

cheese with creamy texture and sharp bite),

St. Nectaire.

or Appenzeller, a style of Gruyère whose

La Gerla Gli Angeli Sangiovese $18

slightly herbal and spicy character pairs

This delicious Sangiovese is nutty and rich

so well with this rosé.

so it needs a cheese that follows suit. Try Pecorino and Fontina but especially dry Jack.

wine journal | 11

Cava Cocktails JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

W

ith the seasonal temps inching the mercury north of comfortable,

it’s a perfect time to enjoy wines that offer great flavor and cool us off a bit. I can’t think of a better reason to invite friends over for an informal gathering, fire up the grill and sip a chilly glass or two of Cava.

Next time you reach for a bottle of bubbly make it for a Cava cocktail. o

Sparkling S angria Cock ta il

1/2 oz Sim ple syrup 1 Orange qu arter 1 Lime quar ter 1/2 oz Ora nge liqueu r 1/2 oz Span ish brandy (a Solara B de Jerez li randy ke Felipe I I ($19) shou suffice nic ld ely) 4 oz Domin io de la Pes eta Cava, c 2 oz Lemo hilled n-lime soda , chilled 1 Maraschin o cherry Muddle fru it slices in a shaker w syrup. Add ith simple liqueur an d brandy wit Shake and h ice. strain into a cocktail soda and to glass. Add p off with cava. Drop and garnish in cherry with an ora nge slice. (R modified f ecipe rom www.f reixenetus a.com.)

Fre n ch 75

Bloo d Ora n g e Ca va Co ckta il 2 Blo

od oranges , plus 1 thin slice for ga Splash of rnish fresh lemo n juice Splash of bitters 4 oz Mas V ida Cava Bru t, chilled Using a ream er, juice th e blood ora a strainer p nges into laced over a b owl. With of the spo the back on work th e pulp agains to extract t th e strainer all of the juice, abou a small pit t 1/ 4 cup. In cher comb ine the blo lemon juice, od orange ju bitters and ice, the chilled it a little s Cava. Give tir. Pour in to a chilled flute. Garni Champagne sh with a th in slice of blood orang e.

(Recipe mo dified from www. foodn etwork. com .)

wine journal | 12

Brut o Luna Cava 2 oz Murviedr juice 1 /2 oz Lemon ith citrusy mend a gin w m co re (I in )) 1 oz G oles Gin ($32 e Los Apost lik s ic at om ar ple syrup 2 dashes Sim ice in a and lemon ju p ru sy n, gi Combine ice. Shake viger filled with ak sh il ta ck co flute glass. into an iced in ra st d an y orousl tir gently. more Cava. S h it w p u op T te tail substitu of this cock ns io it ed r c te La dy VS Cogna e gin. Try Har cognac for th ive. rrific alternat ($30) as a te

Fathe r’s Da y :

All I Really Want is a Six-pack

S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M

A

h, Father’s Day, the annual pilgrimage of man to grill, cold beer in hand to sear a side of beast, pronounce it done and present it to table, where it

gets wolfed down. Then, said father beelines it to the couch to try and capture just a little relaxation before day’s end.

I wish my day went something like that on Father’s Day, though I might replace that cold beer with a glass of wine.

My typical ‘dad day’ includes driving my daughter to and from dance rehearsal and recital, enjoying lunch at Harry’s near Munn Park in Lakeland (best gumbo in the area), and spending the evening watching the recital, along with a theater half-filled with other dads looking like they would rather be nowhere else, except maybe in front of a grill.

Since I don’t get to laze around all day, at least let me daydream about the perfect Father’s Day gift: a 6-pack. Yep, that’s all I ever wanted—that and half a cow and some taters. My 6-pack contains no beer, I’m sorry to report. Mine is wine, red wine—red wine that pairs well with meat to be precise.

It’s not everyone’s ideal beverage when it is 90 degrees out and the grill is on, but isn’t that why air conditioning was invented in the first place? o

Here is my 6-pack starting line-up:

“A classic, traditional Rioja,

Cascina Chicco Barbera d’Alba 2013 ‘Granera Alta’, $22

Owen Sullivan Cabernet Franc ‘16th Street Bridge’ 2013, $17

it exhibits notes of lead pencil

Jumps from the glass with

This release is devoted

shavings, unsmoked cigar

sweet, red berries, flowers,

to Cabernet Franc (79%)

tobacco, black cherries,

spice and mint. This

and supported by Cabernet

blackcurrants and subtle

Barbera is beautifully

Sauvignon (11%) and Merlot

oak in the background.

perfumed and ready to

from acclaimed vineyards

Medium-bodied, elegant and

drink now and over the

such as Champoux, Elephant

pure with lovely texture and

next few years.

Mountain, Sheridan and Two

La Tercera 2010 Rioja Reserva, $25

lushness.” 93 points,

Blondes. French Cab lovers

The Wine Advocate

will embrace this for its aromas and flavors of Bing cherry, red currant, bell pepper, oregano and thyme.

Secret de Cardinale 2012 St. Emilion, $37

Cascabel Composé 2011, $17

“This 2012 is a super-con-

Composé is a blend of 50%

Bila Haut 2013 ‘Occultum Lapidem’ Cotes du Roussillon Villages/Latour de France, $25

centrated, layered, opulent

Mourvèdre and 50% Syrah.

“An incredible effort, the 2013

wine with fruit largely

Bright ruby-red with pun-

is made from a mix of Syrah,

concealing some serious

gent aromas of raspberry

Grenache and Carignan that

tannins. This blockbuster

liqueur, lavender and licorice,

comes from schist and chalky

displays plenty of mocha,

lifted by an exotic Indian

soils. A serious, classically

black cherry and cassis fruit.

spice quality. Lush and

styled effort, it offers awesome

It has an incredibly dense,

pliant but with a surprisingly

aromas and flavors (blackberry,

opaque purple color and a

light touch to its flavors of

mineral and licorice), full-bod-

full-bodied mouthfeel.”

red berries, floral pastilles

ied richness and fabulous

93+ points, The Wine

and spice cake. Youthfully

concentration that never comes

Advocate

energetic and taut on

across as heavy. 94-97 points

the finish.

The Wine Advocate wine journal | 13

3 French Stunners for Mother’s Day ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M

M

Under the expert guidance of Xavier Planty,

Guiraud; this property dates back to the early

the wines of Château Guiraud have been

18th century and in 1855, Château Guiraud

certified organic since the 2011. Château

was officially classified as a Premier Grand

Guiraud is the first Grand Cru Sauternes

Cru of Sauternes in Bordeaux, France.

to carry the organic logo.

Over a period of 100 years various families

Organic farming begins with regenerating the

succeeded as owners of the estate: During

soil, biodiversity and grassy vegetation that

a dinner in early 2006, Robert Peugeot, an

grows naturally around the vine stock. An

industrialist, and three winemakers, Olivier

insect census of Château Guiraud’s 128 hectares

Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, Stephan

of vineyards found 635 different varieties,

Von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière

compared to fewer than 200 in conventional

and Xavier Planty, the estate’s director, decid-

vineyards. To help expand biodiversity, 3.7

ed to buy Guiraud. They signed a purchase

miles of hedges have been planted to help pro-

contract on July 20, 2006, thereby uniting

tect insects and feed them in spring. Multiple

their shared passion for wine, gastronomy

‘bug houses’ have also been placed throughout

and nature.

the vineyards. The multiplication of insects

y favorite Sauternes estate is Château

The wine produced here is made from Sauvignon Blanc (35%) and Sémillon (65%) grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea, or Noble Rot, a

Guiraud vineyard living soil

which feed on vine predators has allowed Xavier Planty to dispense completely with

Another personal favorite sweet wine—and

insecticides at Guiraud since 2004.

one perfect to serve on Mother’s Day—is the Vouvray from Château Moncontour in the

type of fungus that feeds on the water inside

But back to the wine. Available at select ABC

the grapes and thus naturally concentrates

stores is the second wine of Château Guiraud,

the aromas and flavors in the grapes resulting

Le Petit Guiraud. The 2012 Petit Guiraud is

If you are a fan of semi-sweet (demi-sec)

in a Sauternes wine with an exquisite taste.

an excellent choice for Mother’s Day brunch –

white wine, or simply want to taste one of

Botrytis brings natural sweetness to the wine

in a 375 mL bottle it’s offered for only $19!

the best, the Vouvray Demi-Sec by Château

Loire Valley in Northern France.

and a great range of flattering aromas such

Moncontour should be on top of your list; it is

as sweet pineapple, candied fruit, black tea,

not only of the highest quality but is probably

white pepper, saffron and sandalwood.

the best value in its category.

The vineyards at Moncontour are some of

Château Moncontour, Loire Valley, France

the oldest in Loire Valley; a castle has existed there since the fourth century. The current structure dates back to the Renaissance when Charles VII, King of France, rebuilt the castle during the 15th century for his mistress Agnès Sorel.

The current owner, the Feray family, purchased the domain in 1994. With the same passion as their predecessors, they have never stopped to revamp the vineyard and to improve the

wine journal | 14

cellars to make Moncontour vineyard one of

a favorite with European consumers. Initially

the most beautiful and renowned of the region.

several flavors were crafted, including straw-

Currently Château Moncontour has 130

berry, raspberry and apple, but only one has

hectares under vine, mostly in AOC Vouvray,

survived the market test—grapefruit!

on calcareous and clay soils. The cellars of Château Moncontour have been carved in the rock below the park of the château so that the grapes can be transferred smoothly by gravity into the presses and the barrels and tanks.

The 2014 Château Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec ($15) exhibits pale yellow-gold

Now at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits is Pulse Grapefruit Rosé at the friendly price of only $8.

Pulse Grapefruit Rosé is quality rosé wine from Southern France with natural grapefruit flavors.

color with green hues and aromas and fla-

This style comes from a French tradition of

vors of apricot, sweet orange, green apple and

adding a touch of fruit juice or syrup to a

acacia flowers; soft and round in the mouth

glass of wine. The freshness of the rosé wine

with medium sweetness and nice acidity for a

is perfectly balanced by the vibrancy of the

perfectly balanced finish. Enjoy as an aperitif,

citrus fruit, tangy aromas of natural grapefruit

by itself or with light appetizers, fresh fruit

and a touch of peach, resulting in a vibrant

or fruit tarts.

and refreshing drink. Serve chilled over ice

The third selection of sweet wine is more than

or with light appetizers. o

just a wine, it is a wine cocktail!

Five years ago a new trend emerged in the rosé wine market: the flavored rosé. These are refreshing, low calorie, off-dry and fruity wines. In a very short time they became

wine journal | 15

8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824

W I NE

TO

WATCH:

Flegenheimer Bros.

‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz AROMA :

CRACKED PEPPER, CINNAMON AND CLOVE WITH NOTES OF BLACKBERRY F LAVO R :

Dark plum and spice with chocolate undertones and jammy berries BO DY :

Full-bodied and rich wine journal | 16

C O L O R:

DEEP PURPLE WITH GARNET HUES F I N I S H:

Well-structured with lingering tannins and bright acidity RE GI O N :

Mclaren Vale, Australia PA I R

WI TH: