wine journal May/Ju ne 2016
ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E
Cava cocktails might be your summer sip!
Secrets to a flawless cheeseboard
Must love dogs
(to work at Shannon Ridge)
The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2016 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved. Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you!
“I drink red wine on ice to water it down.”
Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8. Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Heather Burton East Florida Wine & Spirits Supervisor Brad Lewis Contributing Writer If you would like to ensure you’re receiving the Wine Journal each time it’s published, send an email to Jennifer Baker (JenniferB@abcfws.com) and we’ll add you to the “always mail” list. Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountr y. We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.
abcfws.com wine journal | A
- Diane Keaton dogs of Shannon 3 The Ridge are as cute as
5 6 8 9
they are essential. Learn the wine tasting basics!
Region spotlight: Chile & Argentina These wines are in their prime, so sip now for peak flavor! Italian whites to heavily consider for pool and beach sessions.
10 12 13 14 16
Cheese. Enough said. Cava is the new Champagne, and it makes to-die-for cocktails. Dad’s day is better with wine. The mother lode of Mother’s Day wines. Wine to Watch: Flegenheimer Bros.
‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz
The Dogs of Shannon Ridge DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM
I
remember driving up the Shannon Ridge
weeks. He places the puppies with a few
vineyards five years ago (a trip purposed
sheep in a corral until the dogs are about six
to explore sustainable wine production) in
months old, then they are fully integrated
Clay Shannon’s tractor-led bench wagon. It
into the vineyards.
was a beautiful, sunny day and the conversation flowed from the fruit and the climate, to the sheep and finally to the sheep dogs. Clay’s endearing name for his sheep, his “little wooly compost machines,” speaks to their importance. They are the epitome of sustainability and have been an integral part of the process for the past eight years.
The ranch can be tough on these dogs, and it’s really very sad. They live outside with the sheep and aren’t supposed to bond with people. Last year Clay lost a few dogs: one to a fight with another dog, one to a rattlesnake bite and one to infection. The dogs I met five years ago have changed, also signifying a shift from Anatolian Sheep Dogs to Great
The sheep were not in the vineyard on this
Pyrenees and Border Collies.
particular day. They are only in the vine-
“Currently we have Jack, he is part Anatolian
yards at certain times of the year, or they might eat the first buds. My visit was in late spring so the sheep were in their other pastures waiting for the final harvest before they are brought in to clean up all the leafy debris after the grapes are picked. The dogs
and Great Pyrenees, Pearl is Great Pyrenees, and Cricket and Lad are Border Collies.” They are an investment in time and money but mostly an investment in love, so loss is especially brutal. Even though they are not as “bonded” to humans as the typical house
are their constant companions from birth.
pet, these dogs are warm, loving and have
Across a verdant field, we could see a mass
no fear of the people that work and visit the
of white puffs. The Anatolian sheep dogs
vineyards. These breeds are protectors,
noticed us first, and with a whistle from
not hunters.
Clay they bounded over. I could tell that Clay, a true cowboy in the classic sense of the word, noted which among us were not frightened by his adored canines, as if we had passed a test.
The next glass of Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red ($11) you sip, know that real cowboys make the wine. Sustainability may be a buzzword of late, but it has been Clay Shannon’s commitment for over a decade.
In the beginning he reached out to other
That care comes through in his wines, so
sheep farmers all over the world. He needed
check out Shannon Ridge, Vigilance, Cross
breeds that could handle some of the dangers
Springs and his newer line, High Valley. All
of Northern California like coyotes and
are great wines with Napa quality, but not
mountain lions, so size mattered. He looked
the Napa price. Most noticeably, they exhibit
first to a Spanish breed, the Anatolian Sheep
the beauty of Lake County. Shannon Ridge’s
Dog. The dogs don’t require much human
Buck Shack Red ($20) is a great one to toast
training per se, just time, since sheep herd-
the amazing dogs that protect the sheep that
ing is a natural part of their breeding. Clay
nourish the vineyard. One sip and you’ll
gets most of the dogs as puppies and begins
get a sense of how interconnected all of this
integrating them with the sheep around 12
winemaking really is. o wine journal | 3
WINE LIST RED
WHITE
Cascina Chicco Barbera d’Alba 2013 ‘Granera Alta’ (p 13)
Cascina Chico Arneis (p 9)
BORDEAUX
Domaine Gueguen Chablis (p 11)
BARBERA
Carruades de Lafite 2010 (p 8) Duhart-Milon Rothschild 2010 (p 8) Secret de Cardinale 2012 St. Émilion (p 13)
MALBEC
Santa Julia Reserva Malbec (p 11)
PETIT SIRAH
Flegenheimer Petite Sirah 2013 (p 13)
PORT
Fonseca Vintage Port 2011 (p 8)
RED BLEND
Owen Sullivan ‘16th Street Bridge’ (p 13) Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red (p 3) Shannon Ridge Buck Shack Red (p 3) RIOJA La Tercera 2010 Rioja Reserva (p 13)
SANGIOVESE
ARNEIS
CHABLIS
CHARDONNAY
Pellegrini Chardonnay Russian River (p 11)
FALANGHINA
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe ‘Lila’ Falanghina (p 9)
GRECO
Ippolito Ciro Bianco (p 9)
ORVIETO
Le Velette Orvieto (p 9)
PINOT GRIGIO
Storico Pinot Grigio (p 11)
SOAVE
La Cappuccina Fontego Soave (p 9)
SAUTERNES
Château Climens 2005 (p 8) Le Petit Guiraud 2012 (p 14)
La Gerla Gli Angeli Sangiovese (p 11) Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino VERDICCHIO 2009 (p 8) Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (p 9)
SHIRAZ
Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz (p 11, 16)
VERMENTINO Santa Maria Palma Vermentino Blu (p 9)
SUPER TUSCAN
VERNACCIA Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano (p 9, 11)
Antinori Solaia 2009 (p 8) Antinori Solaia 2010 (p 8)
ROSÉ
Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé (p 11) Pulse Grapefruit Rosé (p 15)
VOUVRAY Chateau Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec (p 15)
SPARKLING
Dominio de la Peseta Cava Brut (p 12) Mas Vida Cava Brut (p 12) Murviedro Luna Cava Brut (p 12)
wine journal | 4
HOW TO TASTE W INE H E AT H E R B U R T O N • @ A B C W I N E H E AT H E R B • H E AT H E R B @ A B C F W S .C O M
Enjoying wine that you like and appreciating
evaluate the “look” of your wine: check out
wine that you don’t like requires the same
the color, opacity and viscosity (wine legs).
thing: the skill of tasting. The more you fine-
This evaluation should only take 5 seconds.
tune your sensory abilities, the better you are able to understand and enjoy the nuances and details that great wines express.
Now the swirling that you did a bit earlier has had the chance to aerate the wine in your glass. Aeration is necessary to release sulfur
While there is no one right or wrong way
dioxide, aldehydes and esters. Once the wine
to learn how to taste wine, some “rules” do
has aerated, you can actually smell the aroma
apply. First and foremost, take a minute to
and bouquet. Try and pick out at least two
evaluate the surroundings of your wine
aromas and take your time identifying them.
tasting experience that may affect your impressions of the wine. For instance, a noisy
There are 3 types of wine aromas:
or crowded room makes concentration diffi-
• Primary aromas come from grapes and
cult. Cooking smells, perfume and even pet
include fruit, herb and flower notes.
odor can destroy your ability to get a clear sense of a wine’s aromas. A glass that is too small, has the wrong shape, smells of dish
• Secondary aromas come from fermentation and yeast.
soap or has a layer of dust in it can also affect
• Tertiary bouquets come from aging,
the wine’s flavor.
oxidation and oak; these are often
The temperature of the wine will also have an impact on your impression, as will the
described as being similar to baking spices, nuts and vanilla.
age of the wine and any residual flavors from
To assess the taste of the wine you must
whatever else you’ve been eating or drinking.
evaluate the two elements that make up
You want to neutralize the tasting condi-
the palate: flavor and structure.
tions as much as possible, so the wine has a
• Flavors such as lemon, blackberry
fair chance to stand on its own. If a wine is served too cold, warm it with your hands by cupping the bowl. If a glass seems musty, give
or vanilla. • Structure has to do with the level of
any characteristics that stood out and impressed you? Surely, you’ll encounter a wide
it a quick rinse with wine, not water, swirling
sweetness, body, alcohol, acidity and tannins.
it around to cover all the sides of the bowl.
• Profile tastes can also be time-based;
and other flavors, and if you’ve done your
there is a beginning, middle (mid-palate)
sniffing homework, most flavors will follow
and end (finish).
right along where the aromas left off. Aside
This is called conditioning the glass. Finally, if there are strong aromas nearby—especially perfume—walk as far away from them as you can and try to find some neutral air. Now, let’s taste. First, give the wine in your glass a good swirl around. Be careful, this does take practice. If you are new at this, use the top of a table nearby to help steady your swirl. Next
Take a sip (not a large swallow) and try sucking on it like you’re pulling it through a straw—I definitely suggest practicing this at home first. Ignore the stares of those around you; this simply aerates the wine and circulates it throughout your mouth. Did the wine taste balanced or out of balance? Was this wine unique or unmemorable? Were there
range of fruit, flower, herb, mineral, barrel
from simply identifying flavors, you are also using your palate to determine if the wine is balanced, harmonious, complex, evolved and complete. Remember that practice makes perfect, and the time and effort invested in palate training is rewarding… and very, very fun. o wine journal | 5
A Visit to CHILE & ARGENTINA BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM
L
The wines were, generally speaking, excellent.
Santiago de Chile, and with only about two
Elegant Cabernet Sauvignon without the
hours sleep under our belts, we hit the ground
green, vegetal quality sometimes found in
running. A private bus was waiting there to
Chilean wine. Crisp Sauvignon Blanc with
rush us off to the Colchagua Valley and in less
a true sense of minerality. Carménère that
than three hours we had wine glasses in hand
showed us what this misunderstood grape is
and, along with about 20 other wine people
really about. Pinot Noir and Syrah with real
from around the world, were taking part in
character and Cabernet Franc that forced us
a power tasting with Bordeaux legend
to collectively wonder why Chilean Cabernet
François Lurton.
Franc wasn’t on everyone’s lips.
We were there to join in the 20th anniversary
François Lurton is indeed a pioneer in the
celebrations of Lurton’s Chilean property, Ha-
field of wine. From the earliest days he has
cienda Araucano. The winery and most of the
been a staunch advocate of screwcaps. In fact,
vineyards are located in an interesting subdivi-
he stands against much of today’s received
sion of Colchagua called the Lolol Valley. Lolol
knowledge that screwcaps are for young wines
is located 43 km (26 miles) from the Pacific
and cork is still the safest way to go for wines
Ocean and average temperatures are generally
that age. Screwcaps, he insists, are the perfect
cooler than the rest of the area, which allows
closure for wines that need to age, and if cork
for more elegant wines and is what Lurton was
is used at all it should be for young wines. To
looking for when he first explored this area.
prove his point, in an unplanned exercise, he
anding early on a Friday morning in
poured for us two glasses of an old wine from
François Lurton
Lunch at Araucano
Lolol Valley from Francois Lurton’s home
wine journal | 66
the same vintage, one that had been aged with
kind of caring shines through their wine as
a cork enclosure and one with a screwcap. The
well. It goes without saying that their Malbec
differences were mind-boggling. The wine
– at all levels and price-points – is something
from the cork bottle was beginning to break
special. But as fine as it is, and as popular as it
down and tasted a little tired, while the same
is internationally, it would be nice to see some
wine from a screwcap bottle was fresh and
of Argentina’s other well-deserving varieties
well-structured.
gain acceptance worldwide. We were very
With José Alberto Zuccardi and “Santa” Julia
impressed with Zuccardi’s Tempranillo, which That evening we attended the anniversary
can easily stand up to the Riojas and Ribera del
party at François Lurton’s home overlooking
Dueros of Spain. Bonarda is also an impressive
the Lolol Valley. There were a number of local
grape variety in Argentina. And of course their
winery owners there, a lot of French friends,
white Torrontés is that crisp, aromatic white
World Press and our little group of five Ameri-
that so many of us are looking for.
cans. We sipped some excellent wine, talked of many things and danced the night away to the
On our second day we took a trip out to Paraje
very wee hours.
Altamira in the Uco Valley where we attended a seminar – one of the best we’ve ever sat
The next day was a delightful lunch outdoors
through – on ‘terroir.’ Terroir is something we
and of course, some more wine. Afterward we
all thought we understood, but soon found
took a walk through the vineyards and had
that we had so much to learn. In a nutshell,
a fascinating seminar on organic and biody-
terroir is about uniqueness. It is about the
namic winemaking, for this is another one of
natural qualities that make a wine in a certain
François Lurton’s longtime pioneering beliefs.
area unique. It is not a question of the wine of
“Biodynamic agriculture helps our vineyards
one area being better or worse than another.
develop in harmony with nature,” he says,
It is a question of allowing the area’s unique-
“without any use of chemicals, thus encourag-
ness to shine through.
ing the vines to nourish themselves naturally.” Some of it sounds like mumbo-jumbo at first,
From there we went to Zuccardi’s brand new
but beneath it are some very sound principles.
facility – not quite operational yet – in the Uco
And the results are always delicious!
Valley which is known as Piedra Infinita (In-
Peruvian-style Pisco Sour
finite Stone). Even to someone who has spent A few days later we were on the other side of
years visiting wineries, this facility was breath-
the Andes, in Argentina, visiting the iconic
taking in its presentation and its capability.
Zuccardi Family Wines estate along with
Here we took part in a tour and tasting with
their sister-venture Bodega Santa Julia. Let us
winemaker Laura Principiano, after which we
first say something about the word ‘family’ in
became the first American guests to lunch at
Zuccardi Family Wines. Spending a few days
their brand new restaurant, not yet open to the
with the Zuccardis we quickly became aware
public. And if you know anything about the
of a sense of ‘family.’ It is a sense of caring
cuisine of Argentina, then you can begin to
and sharing that radiates out from the heart
know how delicious that meal was.
Empanadas!
of their own family to their co-workers, their guests and visitors, and to the people in the
All in all, it was a fascinating trip that whet
community. The Zuccardi Family are setting
our appetite to explore and discover more
up a network of schools, libraries, gyms and
about the wine, the cuisine, the culture and
social centers, not just for the people that work
the people of these two great wine-producing
for them in the vineyards but for everyone lo-
countries. They should indeed be much
cally who has the need for these facilities; that
better known. o wine journal | 7
Primetime Wines BRAD LEWIS • CONTRIBUTING WRITER
W
hen is a wine ready for primetime? Or rather, when is it in its prime? It depends upon the wine. Most
wines are meant to be enjoyed within a year or two of release, but some of the world’s great wines age for decades to develop a deeper complexity. These wines are sometimes hard to find, but when you do, the first sip will pull you down into a world of subtleties, flavor, balance and mm, mm deliciousness. Here are a few wines ready for primetime that are available in select ABC locations.
Château Climens 2005 – Barsac, Bordeaux, France, $70 (375mL)
Carruades de Lafite 2010–
“Toffee, dried lemon rind and tropical fruit on the
“The wine displays much of the same lead pencil,
nose. Full-bodied and very sweet, with a dense palate
charcoal and black currant notes of its bigger sister,
of candied fruit and a long, sweet finish. Very con-
although it is forward, precocious and far less struc-
centrated. The botrytis spice creeps up on the finish.
tured than the grand vin. Nevertheless, this wine,
Best after 2013.” 95 points, Wine Spectator
which can be drunk now, will cellar beautifully for
Fonseca Vintage Port 2011 – Portugal, $90
at least 20-25 more years.” 94 points,
Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, $315*
“The Fonseca 2011 is typically more forthcoming on
The Wine Advocate
the nose compared to the bashful Croft: a strident bouquet with lifted scents of freshly picked blackberries,
Duhart-Milon Rothschild 2010 – Pauillac, Bordeaux, France, $150
kirsch, crushed stone and a dash of Hoi Sin and
“Dense purple, with classic notes of cedar and lead
oyster sauce. It is very well-defined, very focused and
pencil shavings as well as gobs of black currants and
direct. The palate is silky smooth with not a rough
licorice, the wine has a full-bodied mouthfeel with
edge in sight, though not a typically voluptuous
precision and density. It also possesses a long, silky
Fonseca because of the keen thread of acidity and
finish with moderately high tannins, but they are
the structure that lends this mighty Port wonderful
ripe and well-integrated. The wood is clearly pushed
backbone. A slight viscosity on the finish lacquers
to the background in this dense, full-bodied Pauillac,
the tongue and indicates a core of sweet fruit is
which should drink beautifully for 30+ years.” 96
ticking away underneath that will surely explode
points, The Wine Advocate
several years after bottling.” 97-99 points,
Poggio Il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2009 – Tuscany, Italy, $50
The Wine Advocate Antinori Solaia 2010– Tuscany, Italy, $200* “A dense, powerful red, with a good lashing of oak, this evokes black currant, blackberry and spice flavors. Finds equilibrium with air, gaining suppleness and finishing long and complex. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2016
“Wild sage, juniper and eucalyptus notes pick up some cherry accents in this lean, chewy red. Well-proportioned, with a firm, sinewy finish, this has character and should come together with a little time. Best from 2016 through 2024.” 90 points, Wine Spectator o
through 2028.” 93 points, Wine Spectator *These wine prices end in 8 and are therefore ineligible for further discounts, including our $10 off $100 wine offer and $2 Rewards.
wine journal | 8
Italian Whites for Floridian Summers PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM
I
t’s been said that there are no guarantees in
the Orvieto we see in the U.S. tends to be a
life except death. Here in sunny, sub-tropical
bland, pedestrian wine. In the hands of
South Florida, we have a more optimistic out-
quality producer such as Le Velette Orvieto
look. One thing that is a given in South Florida
is transformed into a wine that is anything
is that by this time of year our beautiful, balmy
but ordinary. The Le Velette Orvieto, ($12), is
weather is gone until (at least) November…
clean and dry with pleasant acidity and peach notes.
And that’s OK. The heat and humidity gives us an excuse to slow down, spend some time around blue water and rethink what we’re pouring into our glasses. It’s never been a better time to stock the wine rack and the fridge with some crisp, vibrant Italian white wines.
SOAVE: Once one of the most popular imported wines in the U.S., Soave fell into disfavor as its commercial success led producers to quantity at the expense of quality. La Cappuccina has worked diligently to counter this negative perception. The single vineyard La Cappuccina
Before I lose everyone who thinks this going to
Fontego Soave, ($12), is the flagship wine of
be another article about Pinot Grigio, have no
the estate. Golden delicious apples, hazelnuts,
fear. Italy offers an enormous array of intriguing
citrus and white flowers are found in this
white wines that are both thought-provoking
complex, age-worthy wine.
and pleasurable. These lesser-known varietals are just intriguing enough to keep you satisfied and delicious enough for you to fall in love.
VERDICCHIO, VERMENTINO & VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO: Yes, these are three different wines but I couldn’t
ARNEIS: One of my favorite new wines from
decide between them so you get all three.
the Piemonte region, the Cascina Chicco
Marotti Campi Verdicchio dei Castelli di
Arneis, ($23), offers notable complexity with
Jesi, ($11), is a mouthful of words and wine.
white peach, mint and minerals.
This crisp, dry wine from the Marches region
CIRO BIANCO: Produced from 100% Greco Bianco, this white varietal was brought to Calabria by the ancient Greeks. The Ippolito Ciro Bianco, ($12), is a brilliant lemon-green colored wine with aromas of peaches and citrus fruits. Undertones of fresh cut herbs and flowers round out the taste profile.
of central Italy is ideally matched with a plate of seafood. Vermentino is grown all around the Mediterranean coastline but really excels on the island of Sardinia. The Santa Maria Palma Vermentino Blu, ($13), is another wine sure to improve any seafood dish you might serve with it. Mormoraia Vernaccia, ($18), is a new addition from the enchanted
FALANGHINA: Falanghina is a grape variety
Tuscan town of San Gimignano
that has found its best expression in the volca-
and is one of the best examples
nic soils in the Campania region of Italy. The
of Vernaccia I have tasted. o
wine Tenuta Cavalier Pepe ‘Lila’ Falanghina, ($12), is an aromatic offering with lively acidity and a real sense of place from the unique soil. ORVIETO: Orvieto never seems to get the attention it deserves; partly because much of
wine journal | 9
Secrets to a Well-crafted Cheeseboard (and the kick-butt wines to pair with)
ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM
E
veryone has an inner Ina Garten.
2. BREAD, CRACKERS AND SPREADS
I don’t care who you are, or what walk of
This will serve as the anchor for your palate.
life you come from, an evening filled with
Crackers and bread are the blank canvases
SECRET #3: Cover cheeses in a damp towel to keep them from drying out too much, which can alter flavor.
lip-smacking wines, a laden cheeseboard,
cheese flavors bounce off of. Think bread
and hearty laughter tickles everyone’s fancy.
4. SALTY, SWEET AND CURED
sticks for height, toasted baguettes for
This is where your briny olives, cured meats
spreads, and crackers for crunch. Remember
and candied/spiced nuts come in. Olives are
that the carbs here are to showcase the
a staple on a cheeseboard, but if you want to
flavors of the cheese and wine together, so
turn this course into a meal you could add
simple flavors like cracked pepper and sea
prosciutto, salami, genoa and other cured
salt always work.
meats. The nuts provide some extra crunch
SECRET #2: Cheese should always be served at room temperature, so letting the cheese breathe for 30-45 minutes after taking from the refrigerator is a good idea.
and can be used to echo flavors in the chees-
Since you’ve suddenly come across a craving for the fancy-schmancy, why not take a stab at a cheeseboard? It can’t be done wrong (because cheese can’t be wrong), and it’s a fun excuse to try some new wines and entertain friends. 1. THE BOARD AND THE CHEESE When most people craft a cheeseboard, they focus on hitting all the flavor bases: sharp, nutty, creamy, fresh and funky. Instead, focus more on hitting these bases: aged, young, goat and blue. You do want a healthy representation of sharp, nutty, creamy, fresh and funky, but if you’re not a cheesemonger you
go on can be anything solid, from wood to marble to glass to ceramic. Cake stands and cutting boards also make great cheeseboards! If you don’t have special cheese knives, just pair one butter knife per cheese.
SECRET #4: The board should be arranged (and eaten) from mild to strong, left to right or clockwise. Make sure there is space between stinky cheeses and mild cheeses; odor (and flavor) can and will transfer easily!
This part is easy… garnish with herbs!
flavors right off the bat.
The actual board that the cheeses and treats
almonds would pair perfectly with that!).
5. GARNISH FOR AESTHETICS
might not know what cheeses exhibit these SECRET #1: Unwrap cheeses to let them breathe and “open up” just like you would a wine.
es (got an espresso dusted Cheddar? Cocoa
Choose edible greenery to fill empty spaces around the board. If you want to add another level of complex flavor and beauty to your board, consider some spreads. Bacon jam, olive tapenade, red pepper jelly, fruity marmalades, Sierra Nevada mustards and honey are great candidates. Or just go for a chunk of honeycomb; its rustic look will have your board
SECRET #5: Each person will eat about 6 ounces of cheese, so buy according to how many people will be in attendance to make sure everyone gets a bite! Once you gather your cheese it’s time to think about the wines.
screaming “I’m Barefoot Contessa’s
Our Wines to Watch are expert selections
best friend.”
that exhibit an unparalleled sense of place.
try, style or age. In the beginning, though,
3. FRUIT
They maintain heightened personality and
it’s always more fun to experiment with all
Fresh and dried, it’s always good to think
styles and flavors.
about season with fruit. Since we’re embarking
Once you’ve done this a few times, you can begin to build boards based on region, coun-
on summer, mandarins, cherries, apricots, strawberries, cantaloupe and blueberries will be at their freshest. You can never go wrong with candied lemons! Oh, and wrap some prosciutto around the cantaloupe (it’s to die for). wine journal | 10
hail from distinct coordinates. These wines aren’t just ABC’s newest wines, they are the wines that might just be the world’s next favorite. o
W I N E S
T O
W A T C H
Domaine Gueguen Chablis, $19
Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano, $18
Pair with soft, creamy cheeses like
This citrusy, refreshing wine belongs with
an aged Brie or a Jarlsberg.
semisoft, washed-rind, young cheeses like
Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz, $15
Taleggio. This Italian cheese has a robust aroma with a tangy fruit flavor.
This wine calls for a cheese that can tango
Santa Julia Reserva Malbec, $13
with its spice, such as Extra Sharp Cheddar
Seek out funky, umami-heavy cheeses for
or Gouda.
Malbec. This particular wine would do well
Pellegrini Chardonnay Russian River, $22
with soft to semi-firm cow and sheep milk
You could go the typically creamy Brie
cheese like Cashel blue or Manchego.
route here, but a goat Alpine Shepard
Storico Pinot Grigio, $10
cheese will really dance with this wine.
Storico’s Pinot Grigio is super fruity and
Domaine Maby Tavel Rosé, $17
crisp, so a delicate, slightly tangy and
Because this is a drier style of rosé, pair with rich cheeses like goat, Mahon (a Spanish
somewhat salty cheese like Asiago Fresco would go very well. Or try a nutty, grassy
cheese with creamy texture and sharp bite),
St. Nectaire.
or Appenzeller, a style of Gruyère whose
La Gerla Gli Angeli Sangiovese $18
slightly herbal and spicy character pairs
This delicious Sangiovese is nutty and rich
so well with this rosé.
so it needs a cheese that follows suit. Try Pecorino and Fontina but especially dry Jack.
wine journal | 11
Cava Cocktails JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM
W
ith the seasonal temps inching the mercury north of comfortable,
it’s a perfect time to enjoy wines that offer great flavor and cool us off a bit. I can’t think of a better reason to invite friends over for an informal gathering, fire up the grill and sip a chilly glass or two of Cava. Next time you reach for a bottle of bubbly make it for a Cava cocktail. o
Sparkling S angria Cock ta il
1/2 oz Sim ple syrup 1 Orange qu arter 1 Lime quar ter 1/2 oz Ora nge liqueu r 1/2 oz Span ish brandy (a Solara B de Jerez li randy ke Felipe I I ($19) shou suffice nic ld ely) 4 oz Domin io de la Pes eta Cava, c 2 oz Lemo hilled n-lime soda , chilled 1 Maraschin o cherry Muddle fru it slices in a shaker w syrup. Add ith simple liqueur an d brandy wit Shake and h ice. strain into a cocktail soda and to glass. Add p off with cava. Drop and garnish in cherry with an ora nge slice. (R modified f ecipe rom www.f reixenetus a.com.)
Fre n ch 75
Bloo d Ora n g e Ca va Co ckta il 2 Blo
od oranges , plus 1 thin slice for ga Splash of rnish fresh lemo n juice Splash of bitters 4 oz Mas V ida Cava Bru t, chilled Using a ream er, juice th e blood ora a strainer p nges into laced over a b owl. With of the spo the back on work th e pulp agains to extract t th e strainer all of the juice, abou a small pit t 1/ 4 cup. In cher comb ine the blo lemon juice, od orange ju bitters and ice, the chilled it a little s Cava. Give tir. Pour in to a chilled flute. Garni Champagne sh with a th in slice of blood orang e. (Recipe mo dified from www. foodn etwork. com .)
wine journal | 12
Brut o Luna Cava 2 oz Murviedr juice 1 /2 oz Lemon ith citrusy mend a gin w m co re (I in )) 1 oz G oles Gin ($32 e Los Apost lik s ic at om ar ple syrup 2 dashes Sim ice in a and lemon ju p ru sy n, gi Combine ice. Shake viger filled with ak sh il ta ck co flute glass. into an iced in ra st d an y orousl tir gently. more Cava. S h it w p u op T te tail substitu of this cock ns io it ed r c te La dy VS Cogna e gin. Try Har cognac for th ive. rrific alternat ($30) as a te
Fathe r’s Da y :
All I Really Want is a Six-pack
S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M
A
h, Father’s Day, the annual pilgrimage of man to grill, cold beer in hand to sear a side of beast, pronounce it done and present it to table, where it
gets wolfed down. Then, said father beelines it to the couch to try and capture just a little relaxation before day’s end. I wish my day went something like that on Father’s Day, though I might replace that cold beer with a glass of wine. My typical ‘dad day’ includes driving my daughter to and from dance rehearsal and recital, enjoying lunch at Harry’s near Munn Park in Lakeland (best gumbo in the area), and spending the evening watching the recital, along with a theater half-filled with other dads looking like they would rather be nowhere else, except maybe in front of a grill. Since I don’t get to laze around all day, at least let me daydream about the perfect Father’s Day gift: a 6-pack. Yep, that’s all I ever wanted—that and half a cow and some taters. My 6-pack contains no beer, I’m sorry to report. Mine is wine, red wine—red wine that pairs well with meat to be precise. It’s not everyone’s ideal beverage when it is 90 degrees out and the grill is on, but isn’t that why air conditioning was invented in the first place? o
Here is my 6-pack starting line-up:
“A classic, traditional Rioja,
Cascina Chicco Barbera d’Alba 2013 ‘Granera Alta’, $22
Owen Sullivan Cabernet Franc ‘16th Street Bridge’ 2013, $17
it exhibits notes of lead pencil
Jumps from the glass with
This release is devoted
shavings, unsmoked cigar
sweet, red berries, flowers,
to Cabernet Franc (79%)
tobacco, black cherries,
spice and mint. This
and supported by Cabernet
blackcurrants and subtle
Barbera is beautifully
Sauvignon (11%) and Merlot
oak in the background.
perfumed and ready to
from acclaimed vineyards
Medium-bodied, elegant and
drink now and over the
such as Champoux, Elephant
pure with lovely texture and
next few years.
Mountain, Sheridan and Two
La Tercera 2010 Rioja Reserva, $25
lushness.” 93 points,
Blondes. French Cab lovers
The Wine Advocate
will embrace this for its aromas and flavors of Bing cherry, red currant, bell pepper, oregano and thyme.
Secret de Cardinale 2012 St. Emilion, $37
Cascabel Composé 2011, $17
“This 2012 is a super-con-
Composé is a blend of 50%
Bila Haut 2013 ‘Occultum Lapidem’ Cotes du Roussillon Villages/Latour de France, $25
centrated, layered, opulent
Mourvèdre and 50% Syrah.
“An incredible effort, the 2013
wine with fruit largely
Bright ruby-red with pun-
is made from a mix of Syrah,
concealing some serious
gent aromas of raspberry
Grenache and Carignan that
tannins. This blockbuster
liqueur, lavender and licorice,
comes from schist and chalky
displays plenty of mocha,
lifted by an exotic Indian
soils. A serious, classically
black cherry and cassis fruit.
spice quality. Lush and
styled effort, it offers awesome
It has an incredibly dense,
pliant but with a surprisingly
aromas and flavors (blackberry,
opaque purple color and a
light touch to its flavors of
mineral and licorice), full-bod-
full-bodied mouthfeel.”
red berries, floral pastilles
ied richness and fabulous
93+ points, The Wine
and spice cake. Youthfully
concentration that never comes
Advocate
energetic and taut on
across as heavy. 94-97 points
the finish.
The Wine Advocate wine journal | 13
3 French Stunners for Mother’s Day ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N@A B C F W S.C O M
M
Under the expert guidance of Xavier Planty,
Guiraud; this property dates back to the early
the wines of Château Guiraud have been
18th century and in 1855, Château Guiraud
certified organic since the 2011. Château
was officially classified as a Premier Grand
Guiraud is the first Grand Cru Sauternes
Cru of Sauternes in Bordeaux, France.
to carry the organic logo.
Over a period of 100 years various families
Organic farming begins with regenerating the
succeeded as owners of the estate: During
soil, biodiversity and grassy vegetation that
a dinner in early 2006, Robert Peugeot, an
grows naturally around the vine stock. An
industrialist, and three winemakers, Olivier
insect census of Château Guiraud’s 128 hectares
Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, Stephan
of vineyards found 635 different varieties,
Von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière
compared to fewer than 200 in conventional
and Xavier Planty, the estate’s director, decid-
vineyards. To help expand biodiversity, 3.7
ed to buy Guiraud. They signed a purchase
miles of hedges have been planted to help pro-
contract on July 20, 2006, thereby uniting
tect insects and feed them in spring. Multiple
their shared passion for wine, gastronomy
‘bug houses’ have also been placed throughout
and nature.
the vineyards. The multiplication of insects
y favorite Sauternes estate is Château
The wine produced here is made from Sauvignon Blanc (35%) and Sémillon (65%) grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea, or Noble Rot, a
Guiraud vineyard living soil
which feed on vine predators has allowed Xavier Planty to dispense completely with
Another personal favorite sweet wine—and
insecticides at Guiraud since 2004.
one perfect to serve on Mother’s Day—is the Vouvray from Château Moncontour in the
type of fungus that feeds on the water inside
But back to the wine. Available at select ABC
the grapes and thus naturally concentrates
stores is the second wine of Château Guiraud,
the aromas and flavors in the grapes resulting
Le Petit Guiraud. The 2012 Petit Guiraud is
If you are a fan of semi-sweet (demi-sec)
in a Sauternes wine with an exquisite taste.
an excellent choice for Mother’s Day brunch –
white wine, or simply want to taste one of
Botrytis brings natural sweetness to the wine
in a 375 mL bottle it’s offered for only $19!
the best, the Vouvray Demi-Sec by Château
Loire Valley in Northern France.
and a great range of flattering aromas such
Moncontour should be on top of your list; it is
as sweet pineapple, candied fruit, black tea,
not only of the highest quality but is probably
white pepper, saffron and sandalwood.
the best value in its category. The vineyards at Moncontour are some of
Château Moncontour, Loire Valley, France
the oldest in Loire Valley; a castle has existed there since the fourth century. The current structure dates back to the Renaissance when Charles VII, King of France, rebuilt the castle during the 15th century for his mistress Agnès Sorel. The current owner, the Feray family, purchased the domain in 1994. With the same passion as their predecessors, they have never stopped to revamp the vineyard and to improve the
wine journal | 14
cellars to make Moncontour vineyard one of
a favorite with European consumers. Initially
the most beautiful and renowned of the region.
several flavors were crafted, including straw-
Currently Château Moncontour has 130
berry, raspberry and apple, but only one has
hectares under vine, mostly in AOC Vouvray,
survived the market test—grapefruit!
on calcareous and clay soils. The cellars of Château Moncontour have been carved in the rock below the park of the château so that the grapes can be transferred smoothly by gravity into the presses and the barrels and tanks. The 2014 Château Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec ($15) exhibits pale yellow-gold
Now at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits is Pulse Grapefruit Rosé at the friendly price of only $8. Pulse Grapefruit Rosé is quality rosé wine from Southern France with natural grapefruit flavors.
color with green hues and aromas and fla-
This style comes from a French tradition of
vors of apricot, sweet orange, green apple and
adding a touch of fruit juice or syrup to a
acacia flowers; soft and round in the mouth
glass of wine. The freshness of the rosé wine
with medium sweetness and nice acidity for a
is perfectly balanced by the vibrancy of the
perfectly balanced finish. Enjoy as an aperitif,
citrus fruit, tangy aromas of natural grapefruit
by itself or with light appetizers, fresh fruit
and a touch of peach, resulting in a vibrant
or fruit tarts.
and refreshing drink. Serve chilled over ice
The third selection of sweet wine is more than
or with light appetizers. o
just a wine, it is a wine cocktail! Five years ago a new trend emerged in the rosé wine market: the flavored rosé. These are refreshing, low calorie, off-dry and fruity wines. In a very short time they became
wine journal | 15
8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824
W I NE
TO
WATCH:
Flegenheimer Bros. ‘Out of the Park’ Shiraz AROMA :
CRACKED PEPPER, CINNAMON AND CLOVE WITH NOTES OF BLACKBERRY F LAVO R :
Dark plum and spice with chocolate undertones and jammy berries BO DY :
Full-bodied and rich wine journal | 16
C O L O R:
DEEP PURPLE WITH GARNET HUES F I N I S H:
Well-structured with lingering tannins and bright acidity RE GI O N :
Mclaren Vale, Australia PA I R
WI TH: