Wine Journal: November/ December 2017

wine journal Novemb er/ D e c emb er 2017

ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E

HONI G

10 Holiday Table E S SE N T IALS

Browne family wines find their roots in WWII

The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2017 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Prices in this publication have been rounded to the nearest dollar, including those ending in 8. Prices listed are for 750mL bottles unless otherwise noted.

Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dan Eddy Northeast Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Dave Malone Northwest Florida Wine & Spirits Sales Manager Follow us on Twitter @abcwinecountr y.

We’re also blogging daily at blog.abcfws.com.

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3 5 6 8

The Holidays: football watching & wine sipping.

Bordeaux: the overlooked 2014 vintage.

Honig.

Top 10 wine picks for the holiday table.

10

Family Vineyards.

12 13

Confused by Chianti?

14

You can drink, but can you taste?

Sophistication and balance.

THE HOLIDAYS

football watching & wine sipping JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM

W

hen the calendar year reaches the fourth

quarter, we turn the page on some seasons (like hurricane season, thankfully) and greet a few

Holiday time

more. The holidays are always welcome at the

equates to family

Greeley household. The height of football season is too. It’s a simple formula really: holiday time

time, featuring tasty

equates to family time, featuring tasty wines,

wines, delicious foods

delicious foods to pair with them, and some serious football watching to go along with all

to pair with them,

of the above. Somewhere at the intersection of

and some serious

wine sipping while watching America’s sporting pastime, I find a happy space.

football watching

I also get a little nostalgic. Over the years, I recall

to go along with

great NFL telecasts on Thanksgiving Day and

all of the above.

exciting playoff contests around Christmas time.

Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Viñedos Centenarios $11

Castell-Castell Silvaner Trocken $14

Not to mention those epic college bowl games at New Year’s. Perhaps it’s a bit ironic that the entirety of the college bowl season coincides with the whole of our holiday season.

to match foods like celery and asparagus. Sure, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc could work here. But let’s call an audible and change the play

Why not kickoff things with a Cava and potato

to something more daring. The Silvaner grape

chips pairing? Dominio de la Peseta Brut ($10)

features prominently in the Bavarian region of

exemplifies the classic style of Spain’s traditional

Franconia. Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt

sparkler. It has terrific focus with citrus, green

is the estate historically credited with the first

apple and stone-fruit flavors, crisp acidity and

Silvaner plantings there. Castell-Castell Silvaner

toasty aromas. A blend of Macabeo and Parellada

Trocken ($14) is crisp, balanced and bright with

varieties, it displays a refreshing juiciness and tight

fresh apple and citrus on the nose and juicy

bead of bubbles, contrasting nicely with the salty

mango, pear and green herbs on the palate.

richness of the chips.

When the game is on the line and hamburgers or

A plate of semi-soft cheeses works well with whites

chili dogs make an appearance, it’s time for the

too, especially those with a hint of minerality.

defense to call a Red Dog (blitz). I’ll reach for a

Cuatro Rayas Verdejo Viñedos Centenarios

Tempranillo-based red wine instead. Something

($11) reveals quince and nectarine notes, with

from Ribera del Duero should do the trick.

lavender, rosemary and anise. Producer Agricola

Bodegas Marta Maté ages Píxide Tempranillo

Castellana makes this outstanding Verdejo wine

($10) for six months in American and French oak.

with grapes sourced from 100-year-old vines

It’s persistent on the palate with a bright purple

grown in Rueda’s gravelly sub-soils.

rim, black cherry, violet, tobacco and a touch of

Going with a veggie tray and ranch dressing? Here you can opt for a wine that pairs with difficult

Dominio de la Peseta Brut $10

licorice. Substituting a fennel sausage pizza for

Píxide Tempranillo $10

the burgers leads to another winning matchup. o

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WINE LIST REDS

BLEND

MALBEC Château de Haute Serre Cahors

Malbec 2014 (p 9)

The Advocate Red Blend (p 11) Domaine de Remizières CrozesHermitage 2015 (p 8) La Cappuccina Campo Buri Veneto Red (p 8)

BORDEAUX BLEND Château Bolaire Bordeaux Supérieur

(p 5) Château Croix Mouton Bordeaux

Supérieur (p 5) Château Gigault ‘Cuvée Viva’ Bordeaux

Côtes de Blaye (p 5) Château Gigognan Châteauneuf du

Pape Red (p 8) Château Le Conseiller Bordeaux

Supérieur (p 5) Château Puygueraud Bordeaux Côtes

de Francs (p 5) Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc (p 5) CABERNET SAUVIGNON Dunning Family Vineyards Cabernet

Sauvignon (p 14 & 16) Honig Cabernet Sauvignon (p 6) Stack House Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley 2014 (p 9) CHIANTI La Ripa Chianti Classico (p 12) La Ripa Chianti Classico Riserva (p 12) Poggerino Chianti Classico (p 12) Poggerino Chianti Classico Riserva (p 12) Ricasoli Chianti Classico (p 12)

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Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva (p 12)

MERLOT Château Carignan Prima, Bordeaux Red 2012 (p 9) PINOT NOIR Styring Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

(p 14) TEMPRANILLO Pixide Tempranillo (p 3)

WHITE CHARDONNAY Domaine Gueguen Chablis Vosgros

2015 (p 9) Domaine Gueguen Chablis 2015 (p 9) Trione Vineyards Chardonnay Russian

River Valley (p 15) SAUVIGNON BLANC

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (p 13) Honig Sauvignon Blanc (p 6)

SILVANER Castell-Castell Silvaner (p 3) VERDEJO Cuatro Rayas Viñedos Centenarios (p 3)

SPARKLING Champagne Haton Brut Rosé, (p 8)

Champagne Haton Brut (p 8) Dominio de la Peseta Cava (p 3)

BORDEAUX: The overlooked 2014 vintage S H AY N E H E B E R T • @A B C W I N E S H AY N E • S H AY N E H @A B C F W S.C O M

One of the most important and often

retasted and the scored improved nicely for the

overlooked facets of wine, whether it be wine

most part, the hype behind the 2015 vintage had

quality, style, color or flavor, is location. The

begun and eclipsed the market for the ‘14s.

place makes all the difference, and every place

The wines from Bordeaux 2014 have just begun

has specific weather patterns, microclimates,

to arrive (it’s early September as I am writing)

rainfall, sunshine, soil makeup, positioning

and will begin to arrive in store by month’s end.

or aspect... the list goes on and on, summed

By the time you are reading this, most of the

up neatly with one word, terroir. The weather can make or break a vintage. Rainfall at

approachable sooner in their evolution, and it

the wrong time, hail, frost-all can signal

is the one chance for some of us to be able to

a disappointing end to the vintage for some

afford to even consider a wine like Château

or a less than stellar product for others.

Lafite-Rothschild!

The 2014 vintage in Bordeaux was all about the weather, as always. The winter was wet and rainy, which was good for the water table,

Classified Growths will have arrived and be available! I must say, Bordeaux is the perfect holiday gift, as most can be opened the same evening over dinner, socked away for a few years or aged to perfection!

Here’s a few to look for with good scores, and all come in under the $20 mark:

with rainfall the highest since 2001. Flowering went very well, quick and complete, and the beginning of summer was perfect. August was cool and cloudy, but the warmth and sunshine was back by September, which allows for a long ripening and harvest. Amid early reports of As much as any other wine region, Bordeaux peaks and valleys at the whim of Mother Nature.

The region is positioned on a peninsula (the

another mediocre vintage, 2014 took a turn for the better and the result is the best vintage since 2010.

Médoc) with the cool Atlantic to the left and the

Château Bolaire Bordeaux Supérieur $15

Château Croix Mouton Bordeaux Supérieur

river Gironde to the right. Yes, Bordeaux has her fair share of variables, and if there were such a thing as averages, she gets clobbered over the

$17

head about 2-3 times a decade, has moderate cooperation from Mother Nature maybe 4-5

Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc

times a decade and basks under the sun in close to ideal conditions the remainder of the time.

$18

Both 2009 and 2010 were stellar vintages, which we all hear so much about, but following 2010,

Initially, the wines scored well, although not

the vintages 2011, 2012 and 2013 were less

on par with the top vintages, but in barrel, as is

interesting and certainly flew under the radar

sometimes the case, the wines fattened up a bit

in comparison. In these, let’s call them “lean”

and improved quite well. In the spring of 2017,

Château Puygueraud Bordeaux Côtes de Francs

years, top estates must cull fruit using only the

when many critics reevaluate each wine, many

best grapes, and drop the culled grapes into

wines scores improved to the point that the

$19

a second wine... the more severe this selection

vintage was considered an unexpected success.

process, often the better the Grand Vin. The

Most likely, 2014 was overlooked for two

Grand Vin, in vintages like these, can be great

reasons: first, it followed 2011, 2012 and 2013,

for a number of reasons: They can be

three vintages which lulled most serious buyers to sleep; second, by the time the 2014s were

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HO N I G ALLIE SMALLWOOD • @ABCWINECOUNTRY • ALLIES@ABCFWS.COM

H

And you guys have obviously been successful at this.

innovative and it’s just following a trend,

the birds, the bats, the bees and the leaves.

We have, and I’m not trying to be derogatory

a great challenge–focus on quality. That’s what

onig, a winery dwelling in the dreamy

acres of Rutherford, makes its home amongst Long before “sustainable,” “family-owned,” and “solar-powered” were fad-tastic buzzwords, Honig knew them as a way of business... and life.

Michael Honig gave us a glimpse into the

and so our challenge has always been–and it’s

towards people who’ve been successful at

we do, and do other things toward that goal.

taking a much broader approach, I just think

Like we have this fun postcard series where

as a quality producer, you get one chance a

I’m training a dog right now to find a bug in

year to make great wine so it’s really important

our vineyard and we do a lot of things with

for our winemaker, Kristin Belair, who’s going

sustainability, so we’re always trying to keep

on her 20th year, to be able to devote all of her

topical but we’re not doing it by making

energy to two things... I call this generation,

a new varietal.

this is the MTV generation (that dates me, I’m

Long before sustainability was a buzzword, it was the standard you grew by, though!

I mean you guys have sniffer dogs, the bats and birds and the bees...

philosophies and practices that contribute to this 40-year-old Napa gem.

What’s Honig all about? What makes these wines different, unique, stand out?

My grandfather bought a 70-acre vineyard in Rutherford back in the early 60s. We’re right between Caymus, Quintessa, BV... very old viticulture area, world-renowned for Cabernet Sauvignon, but also Sauvignon Blanc (from the 60s and 70s, from other wineries). Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon are related to each other, so they grow in the same soils and climatic conditions, so that’s why they do really, really well here in Rutherford! As we grew for other people we realized it was very well received and we realized if we can make nice wines for others maybe we should start making our own wine. The decision was to focus on just what we had always grown, where many brands take a shotgun approach and try to be all things to all people, both varietally and also with price points and appellations, our focus is more like a bullet.

So we do Southern Monk Cabernet and if you want to drink Chardonnay, David Ramey makes a great Chardonnay. If you want to drink Zinfandel, there’s a lot of great Zinfandel producers, but if you’re gonna look at Napa Cabernet, I think that’s where we shine–by focusing on two things and doing them well and not trying to be this master of everything.

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55) you know, it’s twitter, it’s 140 characters or less, no one’s paying attention, you’ve got too many things going on, you’ve got too many things trying to grab our attention. So I think you need a very clear message to break through that clutter. And we’re like, piercingly

Yes, and so sustainability to me is that idea of how do we leave a small foot print for the next generation to step into. And you know we’re

clear. We do two things, we do them well, we

a generational business, I’m the third

do them sustainably. We’ve been around for

generation, and we really wanted to create

40, and yes, this is still all we do, and we do it

something that has that longevity and I

well or else we wouldn’t still be in business.

always viewed myself as a caretaker for my

So one of your future sales tactics won’t be, “and now, we make Zinfandel!” Or “look, now we make Albariño!”?

generation and the goal was to always give to the next generation. To do that you have to have a strong business and viability and

You know, it’s like everyone wants to make

success there, but also you have to create land

these products that are shiny and new, but

and a property that are going to be sustainable

they’re not really that new, or they’re not really

for generations to come. So we do dry farming,

saving the water, we do solar, we do things

something that’s compatible with the food

like blue birds and owl boxes and blue bird

and atmosphere of the consumer.

boxes. We got rid of all the invasive species and replanted all the native species at the river.

Even things like lightweight bottles, because there’s so much energy needed to produce glass, and when you can use a bottle that’s 10-15% lighter it’s a huge benefit, it doesn’t look any different but it’ better for the environment.

So it seems that sustainability, for Honig, addresses the business as a whole, in addition to the environment?

And so Kristin’s wines fit the bill because of their elegance?

Yes, they were always perfume-y and medium bodied, but they weren’t light wines. They weren’t this over-the-top style and I liked that so I asked her if she’d be willing to join the team and she loved the idea of being able to focus on one or two varietals as opposed to the 13 from her previous winery. And we’ll have her here until she retires.

Yea, looking at every aspect of the business

You found your forever winemaker, huh?

and examining how you can improve it. We

We did. And you know, we get accolades and

HONIG DID YOU KNOW?

• Honig means honey in German, as you’ll notice from the queen bee on the label.

• If you look through the bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll see a real-life

bought a little electric car to bounce around

stuff but at the end of the day we just want a

the valley, so that we don’t have to fire up the

wine that the guest can enjoy and finish the

shot of Michael Honig’s backyard.

pickup to get the mail and stuff. We apply that

bottle because it’s so good. We’re not here

thinking to everything here, whether it’s solar

to make Cabs that rip your mouth apart,

• Michael Honig helped to write

panels or using lighter glass.

but a wine that makes you want to pick up

Tell me a little bit about Kristin, your the winemaker.

a ribeye because it makes it that much more

Kristin the winemaker came up through

put all of our energy into quality, then we’ll

Davis about 20 years ago this fall. I knew of

be successful. o

her and I’d heard of her and she makes these really elegant, supple wines… you know, there’s this trend in Napa for about the past 15 years to make the biggest, baddest Cabernet on the block – a lot of oak, a lot of alcohol, big, massive wines, and that’s fine! But again, so much of our wine is sold to people in a

pleasurable. At the end of the day, if we can

The Wine Institute Code of Sustainable Winegrowing Practices and Honig was one of the first wineries to receive Certified California Sustainable Winegrower certification.

• Honig is also certified “Napa Green” and “Fish Friendly” and have both bat houses and bluebird houses on

restaurant setting or people bringing it home

the property to encourage natural

to enjoy in an intimate setting, so let’s make

pest control. wine journal | 7

10

Wines Under for the Holiday Table

$40

ATA N A S N E C H KO V • @ A B C W I N E ATA N A S • ATA N A S N @ A B C F W S .C O M

C

arefully selected and

third and fourth generation of

shows berry and spice flavors

carefully crafted, the following

Hatons are today at the reins of

and aromas. Age it for a more

wines provide a resounding

the family business and crafting

complex palate later on.

cheers to an unforgettable food

some of the best Champagnes

and wine experience at the

available.The wines delight

4. DOMAINE REMIZIÈRES

holiday table. They don’t cross

with their finesse, elegance,

the $40 price point but still

balance and generous fruit.

hover a little higher than the

The Classic Brut, a blend of 60%

everyday wine price of $10 to

Pinot Meunier and 40% Pinot

$15. They present the best

Noir, delivers small bubbles and

value for price.

persistent effervescence and is

1. HATON CLASSIC BRUT | $30

the perfect choice for everyday

There is no true holiday celebration without Champagne!

consumption as an aperitif or paired with multitude of dishes.

Champagne time is anytime, but

2. HATON BRUT ROSÉ | $34

even more so during the end-

Haton Brut Rosé, a blend of 30%

of-year holidays. The absolute

Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir

best value in the less than $40

and 35% Pinot Meunier, is the

category goes, without any

perfect choice for a toast but also

hesitation, to Haton. Champagne

makes for a surprisingly good

Haton was founded in 1928

pairing with a rack of lamb

in the Premier Cru village of

(a personal favorite).

Damery in the Marne Valley,

3. LA CAPPUCCINA CAMPO

prime country for Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Father and son duo, Jean-Noël and Sébastien,

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BURI ROSSO VENETO | $22

CROZES-HERMITAGE | $20

Domaine Remizières CrozesHermitage shows dark crimson color. Full-bodied with great structure, this Rhone red is supple with notes of cherry, blackcurrant and vanilla.

5. CHÂTEAU GIGOGNAN

CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE | $33

The 2013 Clos du Roi Red is one of very few Châteauneuf du Pape wines to receive a 90-point rating (The Wine Advocate) in this challenging vintage. A good portion of the Grenache from the centennial vines at the Cardinalice vineyard made it into the Clos du Roi blend in the 2013 vintage, resulting in a wine with classic Châteauneuf

Blended with Carménère and a

character: lighter ruby red color;

touch of Oseleta, La Cappuccina

aromas and flavors of strawberry,

Campo Buri Rosso Veneto

black cherry fruit, garrigues

and lavender; medium to full

Céline and Frédéric Gueguen

with aromas and flavors of

body; and a silky, long-lasting

started their winery in 2013 with

blueberries and currant, this

finish. The Châteauneuf du Pape

30 years of combined experience

wine seduces with its pure fruit,

vineyards at Château Gigognan,

in winemaking and clear vision

ripe but assertive tanninsand

Clos du Roi and the centennial

of what they wanted to achieve.

perfect balance. Château

vines at Cardinalice have all

Their respect for the terroir and

Carignanis one of Bordeaux’s

been certified organic by Ecocert

environment combined with

largest estates; the domain covers

since 2009.

careful and precise vinification

an area of 150 hectares total of

6. CHÂTEAU DE HAUTE SERRE

has resulted in some truly

which 70 hectares are vineyards

spectacular wines.

planted on stony hillsides of

Inky purple color makes way

8. DOMAINE GUEGUEN

predominantly clay-limestone

for a bouquet of dark fruit and

CHABLIS VOSGROS | $25

a hint of licorice. A full, fresh

Domaine Gueguen Chablis

palate shows ripe fruit flavors

Vosgros is fresh with ripe,

and bold complexity.

round flavors. Notes of honey

7. DOMAINE GUEGUEN

and citrus are met by a touch of

CAHORS MALBEC | $22

CHABLIS | $19

white pepper.

For those who, like myself, will

9. STACKHOUSE

require a bottle of unoaked

Chardonnay to complete their

This Cabernet is medium-

holiday spread, look no further

bodied with bold fruit flavors

than the classic Chablis from

and undertones of tobacco leaf

Domain Gueguen.The 2015

and earth. Stack House Cabernet

Domain Gueguen Chablis

Sauvignon is a showy wine that

exhibits pale gold color and

will impress any guests around

complex aromas and flavors of

the table this holiday season.

citrus, green apple, star-fruit

10. CHÂTEAU CARIGNAN PRIMA,

and white flowers; richness and freshness are in perfect balance on the palate, and the finish is an incredible 30+ seconds long. The wines from Domain Gueguen are a practice in precision, complexity and balance. Domaine Gueguen is located in the village of Préhy, just 7km southwest of Chablis.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON | $30

BORDEAUX | $23

soil with southwest exposure.

The varieties are divided into 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Carignan was first built in the eleventh century on the site of a Roman villa. It was given

by King Charles VII of France to Jean Poton de Xaintrailles who was a companion in arms of Joan of Arc and fought the English invasion in the Hundred Years’ War. In 1452 Poton de Xaintrailles rebuilt the castle in its present state and a year later in 1453 he was victorious over the English troops led by Constable Talbot in the battle

Another exceptional find, this

of Castillon, which took place

time from the classic wine

near the town of Castillon-sur-

region of Bordeaux, is Château

Dordogne in Gascony, battle

Carignan Prima 2014. Prima

that ended the Hundred Years’

is the top cuvée from Château

War and attached Bordeaux

Carignan; it is 100% Merlot from

(Aquitaine) back to the

45-year-old vines and is aged

kingdom of France. o

in oak barrels for 18 months.

Complex and mellow mouthfeel

wine journal | 9

BROWNE FAMILY VINEYARDS DANIEL EDDY • @ABCWINEDANE • DANE@ABCFWS.COM

“T

hey worked hard while there and wished we could have a little respite to enjoy the city.

It is half dead, but Paris half dead is still a wonderful place to be... Time out, someone just brought me something to eat. A piece of chicken and some paté de foie gras on a piece of bread. He must have raided something. Haven’t eaten like that in a long time.” – William Bitner Browne (in a letter home on September 8, 1944)

ABC). Browne Family Vineyards is different; it is a labor of love for his grandfather. With vineyard manager, David Minick, and winemaker, John Freeman, Browne Family Vineyards was 15 years in the making before producing a single bottle. The team focused on the best selections from their varied Columbia Valley properties to create Bordeaux-style varietal wines to represent the best Washington has to offer.

I often say that winemaking is storytelling, and behind every fine wine is an amazing story.

I spent a few days in Columbia Valley with

Andrew’s new flagship of this homage line is “The Advocate” in honor of his lawyer grandfather, bringing all that history and passion for Bordeaux into a classy red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec with just a hint of Syrah to make it so very Washington state. On the nose I get blackberry and black cherry, framed by the vanilla character of new oak. Some rustic notes from the Syrah and Petit Verdot, but this wine tastes clean on the palate with bright acidity, yet still rich and elegant. Balance is the key as there is fruit, but not like a Cali fruit bomb, and there is acid, but well-structured with hints of mineral backbone and a note of cherry wood on the finish. This is an incredible blend, even without the incredible story. When you marry the two, you know you have something very special. Open a bottle for your grandfather today. o

Andrew Browne of Precept Wines, as well as Browne Family Vineyards, and learned a little bit of his story while enjoying his wines in his Walla Walla tasting room. His tale began with his grandfather and a love of Bordeaux that ex-

Dan holding The Advocate, Heather Burton, Courtney Browne, Kris Becker and Andrew Browne outside of his Walla Walla Tasting Room

him, served in the OSS throughout World War II and into the Korean Conflict after graduating from Harvard Law. His stories inspired his grandson, Andrew, in more ways than just wine.

panded into time spent in France during World War II. Andrew’s story mirrored my own French past, since my mother lived through the German occupation just outside of Paris. Though from different perspectives, I found the commonality of our stories uncanny, as both led us to a life (and a love) of wine and food.

He told me how his grandfather didn’t always

Andrew Browne began Browne Family Vineyards as an homage to his grandfather, William Bitner Browne, who left Ohio to study a year abroad in Bordeaux. Here began his love of Bordeaux varietals. Bitner, as his family called

and he shared his joy of wines with his grand-

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know where he would sleep each night during The War, but he knew there would be good food and great wine (as the opening quote reveals).

This passion for life in the middle of tragedy is something we both share in our family histories.

Wine was a great source of enjoyment for Bitner, son. Andrew began Precept Wines, after years in the wine business, to focus on good quality wines at fair prices with brands like Perimeter, Waterbrook and Canoe Ridge (all available at

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CONFUSED BY CHIANTI? PAUL QUAGLINI • @ABCWINEPAULQ • PAULQ@ABCFWS.COM

T

he name Chianti summons many images.

For those of us lucky enough to have traveled through the Tuscan countryside, we know it is a magical place filled with breathtaking views of medieval castles and Renaissance villas. Olive groves, majestic cypress trees and rolling hills covered in vines greet you around every turn in the road.

Chianti, however, is not just a beautiful place but also the name of one of Italy’s best–known– but often unappreciated–wines.

The story of the most quintessential Italian wine has a long history. Written documents exist from as far back as the thirteenth century.

By 1716 Cosimo Medici the Grand Duke of Tuscany issued a decree defining the area from where Chianti could be produced. This area was greatly expanded in 1932 and later confirmed in the DOC regulations of 1966. In retrospect, not a good thing for promoting quality.

In the 1860s Baron Ricasoli established that Chianti must comprise mainly Sangiovese grapes, (before this time Caniolo was the main grape). The Ricasoli Family conducted decades of extensive research with the aim of producing high-quality wine that could compete on an international level with the great French wines of the time.

Entire books have been written on what went wrong with Chianti in the ensuing years after Ricasoli’s research, but basically the problems stemmed from a few long-held traditions. Perhaps the most important piece of the puzzle is understanding the system of the mezzadria, or sharecropping, that had been a part of Tuscan life since the Middle Ages. In this arrangement, the owner of an agricultural farm had numerous

wine journal | 12

families (mezzadri) who worked the land. The families made wine, olive oil, wheat and vegetables and were obligated to give a portion of what they produced to the owner. As you could probably guess there was little incentive to produce high quality wine–it was all about quantity.

In the 1960s and 70s the system began to fall apart when the mezzadri began to look for work in the cities as Northern Italy became more of an industrial society.

With this radical change came the abandonment of the vineyards. The owners reacted by replanting vines in a more efficient manner but in doing so these specialized vineyards were planted without thought and with the wrong grape varieties. The market became awash with mediocre Chianti resulting in a crisis of confidence.

To further exacerbate the situation, Tuscan wine merchants got in the habit of labeling bulk wine as vino tipo di Chianti (wine of the Chianti type). This practice spread to the U.S. market which is why even today you see 3-liter jug wines labeled as Chianti. What a mess! No wonder Chianti of the past was scorned by some.

If you stopped reading now you might believe I’m not a fan of Chianti but nothing could be further from the truth. Chianti (especially the originally established Classico zone) has undergone an enormous transition since the dark days of the past. Today’s Chianti Classico wines (along with Brunello di Montalcino) are the finest expression of Sangiovese in the world.

They age well, are great with food and offer tremendous value. I love the aromas of violets and cherries with a hint of earthy spice that a great Chianti has to offer.

The Chianti Classico area is large with a myriad of subzones, so picking the right producer is always important. The following is a short list of my favorite producers available at your local ABC store: • Fattoria La Ripa–family owned, organically produced Chianti Classico • Fattoria Poggerino–another small, family- owned winery in the heart of Chianti Classico • Barone Ricasoli–yes, this historic estate is once again producing great Chianti Classico o

Sophistication and Balance:

An Interview with Cloudy Bay Winemaker Tim Heath BILL STOBBS • @ABCWINEBILLS • WSTOBBS@ABCFWS.COM

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he name Cloudy Bay offers up dramatic images of gray clouds, storm-tossed seas and blustery winds. Certainly the wine must also have a story to tell. I had the pleasure of visiting New Zealand a few years ago and spending some time at Cloudy Bay in Marlborough at the north end of the South Island. Cloudy Bay is, of course, one of New Zealand’s premier wineries.

More recently I had the chance to talk with Cloudy Bay’s winemaker Tim Heath and asked him a little bit about Cloudy Bay’s history.

“Cloudy Bay was founded in 1985 by David Hohnen,” Tim said, “David had previously established another winery called Cape Mentelle in Western Australia, which is well known for its Cabernet Sauvignon. At that point, Cloudy Bay was one of only five wineries in the region and was at the forefront of defining the style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that we know today.” Tim was working in the Barossa Valley in South Australia at another winery owned by David Hohnen when the phone rang and he was offered the job at Cloudy Bay. His first vintage was 2005. “Being in one place for 13 years now,” he said, “has given me an intimate understanding of our vineyard sites and has been an incredibly enjoyable experience.”

In talking about the wines of New Zealand we must inevitably begin with Sauvignon Blanc, which remains one of the international wine world’s greatest success stories. I asked Tim what makes it so unique from other Sauvignon Blanc’s of the worlds. “The style of Sauvignon that is produced here is a direct function of the interaction of the grape vine, soil type and climate. The climate is truly ‘cool climate’ and in many ways similar in terms of raw basic data to that of Sancerre. However, we have far more ‘sunshine hours’ here. All these things combined grow wines that are fresh, vibrant, intensely varietal and have a great sense of ‘energy’.”

And what makes Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc so distinctive?

“We have always aimed to produce a wine of sophistication and balance, rather than of extremes,” Tim explained. “We build a wine style that focuses on the citrus, nectarine and stone fruit core of the Sauvignon aroma and flavor spectrum with tropical accents and light

from other regions and other terroir, but says of the Pinot Noir: “If I have to draw a general parallel, I would say that it shares a sense of the exuberant fruit found in some of the best Pinots from Oregon but with a structure that is closer to that found in Burgundy.”

We spoke of the other varietals that New Zealand has to offer – the sometimes amazing Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, largely unknown in the U.S. from Hawkes Bay on the North Island. Tim is a fan. The Syrah, he says, reminds him of the time he spent working in the Northern Rhone in France. As for white wine, he mentions some excellent Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and some very interesting Grüner Veltliner.

herbal tones, rather than wine that is both intensely tropical and vegetal. We keep the palate dry and crisp. Finally, however, it is the distinctive vineyard sites we have through the Rapaura and Renwick sub-regions that ultimately define the wine we craft.”

It is sometimes said that to be fully accepted on the international wine scene, a country needs to produce a red wine of distinction. New Zealand Pinot Noir has certainly made something of a mark, but its sales currently don’t come close to their Sauvignon Blanc. I asked Tim if he believes that Pinot Noir is the inevitable next step.

“We have an excellent climate for Pinot Noir here in New Zealand and soils that marry brilliantly with the needs of the variety,” he said.

“It is undoubtedly the next step and frontier for New Zealand. The fact that the volumes produced of Pinot Noir are less than Sauvignon is a testament to the fact that the variety does not lend itself to large scale production. Making great Pinot Noir requires a more hands-on approach.” He does not like to compare wines

All of which brings us to Cloudy Bay Chardonnay. I ask Tim if he would care to describe the wine and its style. “I love Chardonnay,” he said.

“The style is one that focuses on structure and texture with refined fruit aromatics and balanced use of French oak. They are not big, ripe, bold and buttery styles. Again, they often share some parallel with white Burgundy, particularly in terms of structure and balance.”

Cloudy Bay certainly has had a prestigious and challenging past. From being one of the first and most successful producers of wine from a country that had no notable wine history at all, and to continue producing wine of great quality and sophistication at a time when it might have been easier to take a less intensive path. But, said Tim, “We are still here today and just as focused on the wines that we craft as we were back in 1985.”

I ask him what we can look forward to from Cloudy Bay in the future: “The biggest thing for us at the moment is the wine that we make from our vineyard in Central Otago, in the southern part of the South Island.

This Pinot Noir is called “Te Wahi.” It is an excellent expression of the two sites we have in this region and for us represents the pinnacle of what we have learned through our journey with Pinot Noir over the last 30 years.”

An exciting journey it has been, and one which wine lovers can be most thankful for! o wine journal | 13

You can drink, but can you taste?

DAVE MALONE • @ABCWINEDAVEM • DAVEM@ABCFWS.COM

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doing?” Swirling the wine, especially if it has

that a lot of us in the industry share. This fall

been recently opened, exposes it to more

I partnered with a Tallahassee restaurant to

oxygen, which in turn makes the aromas stand

offer a series of classes to aficionados of all

out allowing you to get a better feel for how the

ages, backgrounds and experiences with wine.

wine is going to taste. Remember, about 85%

Whenever given this opportunity, I always like

of what you taste comes from what you smell,

to start by teaching the proper way to taste

so it’s important to aerate the wine a little to

and evaluate a wine. By learning a couple key

make those aromas pop. A word of caution:

tricks of the trade, you will be surprised by

If you are new to swirling, please do so at

how much your enjoyment increases even

a safe distance from your drinking buddy.

eaching newcomers about wine is a passion

in a casual setting.

SMELL – Now that you’ve opened up those

The process of properly tasting hinges on what

aromas, you’re ready to smell the wine. There

professionals call “the five Ss:” see, swirl, smell,

are literally thousands of descriptors used in

sip and savor.

the industry to describe a wine’s smell, and

SEE – You would be amazed at how much you can learn about a wine just by looking at its color. Note its hue, color density and clarity.

not every person is going to smell or taste the same things. Do not be discouraged. That is perfectly normal.

Wines with a rich, deep color are likely to be

SIP – Now taste the wine. Is it sweet? Sour?

fuller bodied. Those that are lighter are likely

Does it have a lingering, dry aftertaste? Does

to be lighter bodied. This is especially true with

it have a burning sensation? Note how well

red wine. As red wines age, they tend to lose

these flavor components balance each other

their color and take on a rusty or brown hue.

out. If the sugar (sweet), acidity (sour), tannin

If you encounter a red wine in this state, it is

(dry/bitter) and alcohol (burning sensation)

possible that it might be too old and therefore

levels in a wine are well-balanced, meaning no

not enjoyable, especially if you like your wines

one component overwhelms the other, that is

to taste more vibrant. White wines are the

indicative of a higher quality wine.

exact opposite. As they age, they tend to turn more golden in color. This is often preferred in higher quality Chardonnay and dessert wines, where a few years of bottle age can really bring out the rich flavors. Pour yourself a glass of Pinot Grigio and it comes out dark gold or even

SAVOR – Think back to the color, smell and flavor of the wine. Ask yourself, “Did I enjoy this? Would I buy it again? What did or did I not enjoy about this that I can tell my ABC wine consultant next time I see them?”

slightly brown? Pour it out! It is probably not

Now that you’re ready to taste like a pro, I offer

good. You can save your taste buds a lot of bad

these three suggestions with the holiday season

experiences just by observing the wine’s color.

in mind to get you started. o

SWIRL – Ever see someone swirling their wine glass and think, “what on earth is that show-off

wine journal | 14

Ribbon Ridge AVA Styring Pinot Noir Willamette Valley – $35 This has been one of the best discoveries for ABC in Oregon Pinot Noir. The Styring family makes only a few hundred cases a year from the outstanding and this is not to be missed. With great depth of flavor while maintaining its Pinot Noir elegance, this is sure to be a home run on the dinner table for the holidays.

Dunning Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon – $40 Hailing from the famed Willow Creek District in Paso Robles, home to some of the most sought-after wines in the region, this Cabernet is beautifully balanced, with just the right amount of dark fruit flavors, acidity in tannin. Decant and serve with a standing rib roast or cellar for a few years for a holiday celebration to come.

Trione Vineyards Chardonnay Russian River Valley – $29 Less than 1,000 cases were made of this fantastic Chardonnay that showcases notes of apple, citrus and vanilla. The use of French oak adds subtle nuances of flavor with a vibrant acidity that makes it the perfect pairing for turkey or roasted chicken.

wine journal | 15

W IN E

TO

WATCH:

DUNNING ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON $40

AR O MA :

Juicy currant and ripe black cherry VAR IETA L :

Cabernet Sauvignon F L AVOR :

CHERRY AND BLACKBERRY WRAPPED IN EARTH AND TOASTED OAK

B OD Y:

FULL WITH CHEWY TANNINS

C OLOR :

Saturated, dark purple

FI NI S H:

Very long R E G I ON:

PASO ROBLES PA I R

W I TH: